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APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK 



OB" 



AMEEICAIN^ TEAVEL. 

CONTAINING C 

V 

A PULL DESCRIPTION j 

OF THE PRINCIPAL •^^ 

CITIES, TOWIS, AND PLACES OF INTEREST: 

TOGETHER > 

WITH THE ROUTES OF TRAVEL, AND LEADING HOTELS 

THROUGHOUT THE 

UNITED STATES AND BRITISH PEOYINCES.\i\ 

BY 

EDWARD H. HALL. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH COPIOUSMAPS. 

NINTH ANNUAL EDITION ■ 



NEW TOEK: 

1). APPLETOF & CO., 443 & 445 BEOADWAY. 

LONDON: TEUBNER & CO. 

1867. 








NOTICE. 



No expense or labor will be spared to make the Hand-Book of American Travel 
attractive, comprehensive, concise, and every way reliable. 

The next American Edition will be published in May, 1868, and any information 
in regard to errors and omissions, which those who use this work may detect, or any 
facts of interest and value — particularly in respect to new routes and accommoda- 
tions — will be gratefully received and considered. Such communications should be 
addressed to the Editor, care of the Publishers. 



The population of Cities and Towns mentioned in this work are those given in 
the last National Census — 1860 — except when otherwise stated. 

'^g' Advertisers wishing to change or discontinue their advertisements, will 
please to inform the Editor to such effect, on or before April 1st of each year, that 
the necessary alterations may be made in time for the new edition. 



The Editor of " Appletons' Hand-Book " is alone responsible for the information 
contained in its pages. No other person is authorized to procure advertisements, or 
receive money or other favors from Hotel-keepers or Tradesmen on account of the 
Hand-Book, as recommendations in this work are not to be purchased ; they are the 
result of personal experience or disinterested information only ; and when houses 
here represented fail to fulfil their obligations to the public, they will be stricken 
from its pages. 



3i /^^ 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by 

D. APPLETON & CO., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the "Dnited States for the Southern 

District of New York. 



PKEEACE. 



To meet the increased and steadily increasing demand for a 
reliable Tourists' Guide and Hand-Book of Travel in the United 
States and British Provinces, this work has been specially pre- 
pared, and will hereafter be published annually on the 1st of May. 

Accuracy, conciseness, and above all a just discrimination of 
the relative importance of the several objects described, have been 
the chief aims of the compiler; and it is confidently believed 
that the following pages embody a larger amount of desirable in- 
formation for the traveller in this country, than can be found in 
any other single work extant. 

While the original plan of the work has been preserved, numer- 
ous important additions have been made, not least of which are 
the copious, well-engraved maps, routes, and tables of distances. 
The difficulty attending the compilation of such a work as this is 
too well known to need more than passing mention here. How far 
this difficulty has been increased by the numerous changes conse- 
quent upon the late war, and the rapid growth of our "Western Ter- 
ritories, the intelligent reader can well imagine. While the " Hand- 
Book " is mainly the result of the editor's own personal observation, 
he having visited every section of the Union during its preparation, 
it is also largely made up from the writings and experiences of 



iv PREFACE. 

Others, to whom the author returns his grateful acknowledgments. 
A list of the authorities quoted from will be found in its appropriate 
place. An analytical table of contents and a complete alphabet- 
ical index are added, which exhibit at a glance the variety and 
character of the subjects referred to in the work, and greatly facil 
itate reference thereto. 



OOl^TEB'TS. 



[For names of Ebtds, Description of Boufes, Cities, Towns, fzUages, and Objects qf Interest, 
see General Index.'] 
INTKODUCTOET EEMAEKS. 

Some Parting Words to the Traveller, of Explanation and Advice, Plan of the Book ; 
Money, Travelling Expenses, Baggage, Hotels, Waiters, etc. ; Tickets, Outfits, 
Costumes, Insurance, Steamship Lines, Obligations, etc. ; the Traveller's Almanac, 
Memoranda, etc. 

THE UNITED STATES. 

Extent, Divisions, Population, etc., 1-4. 
NEW YORK, - . 5 

New York City, 6 ; Brooklyn, 24 ; Staten Island, 28 ; Long Island, 29 ; Trip up the Hudson . 
River, 33 ; the Kaatskills, 40 ; Lake Mahopac, 45 ; Saratoga Springs, 46 ; Lake Cham- 
plain, 50 ; New York and Erie Railway, 51 ; Niagara Falls, 58 ; the Adirondack Moun- 
tains, Saranac Lakes, etc., 64; Trenton Falls, 67. 

CONNECTICUT 70 

New Haven and Yale College, 71 ; Hartford and Trinity College, 72. 

RHODE ISLAND, 76 

Providence and Vicinity, 76 ; Newport, 78 ; Woonsocket, 79. 

MASSACHUSETTS, 80 

Routes, New York to Boston, 81 ; Boston and vicinity, 81 ; the State-House, 85 ; Hai-vard 
University, 87 ; Mount Auburn, 88 ; Nahant, 90 ; Plymouth Rock, 91 ; Cambridge, 92 ; 
Lowell, 94 ; the Connecticut Valley, 96. 

NEW HAMPSHIRE, 101 

Concord, 103; Dartmouth College, 105; Lake Winnipisaukee, 106; the White Moun- 
tains, 108. 

VERMONT, . 114 

WinoosM Valley and Mount Mansfield, 115 ; Lake Memphremagog, 117. 

MAINE, 119 

Portland, 120 ; Augusta, 132 ; Mount Katahdin, 124 ; the Kennebec River, 125. 

NEW JERSEY, . 126 

Routes to Philadelphia, etc., 126; Princeton and Trenton, 138; Burlington, 129 ; Long 
Branch, 130 ; Cape May, 131 ; Schooley's Mountain and Greenwood Lake, 132. 

DELAWARE, 133 

Wilmington and Vicinity, 134 ; the Eastern Shore, 136 ; Havre de Grace, 136. 



vi CONTENTS. 

PENNSYLVANIA, Page 138 

The Susquchamia, 161 ; Philadelphia, 139 ; Laurel Hill, 150 ; the Schuylkill and Vicinage, 
152; Harrisburg, 150; the Juniata River, 158; Pittsburg, 159; Meadville and the Oil 
Kegion, 163 ; Bethlehem and the Moravian College, 166 ; the Wyoming Valley, 167 ; 
Gettysburg, 109 ; Bedford Springs, 171. 

OHIO, 172 

Cincinnati, 173 ; Vicinity, 17C ; Hamilton and Toledo, 177. 
INDIANA, 182 

Indianapolis, 183 ; TeiTe Haute, etc., 184 

ILLINOIS, 180 

Chicago, 188 ; Springfield and Oak Kidge, 194 ; Galena and its Lead Mines, 197 ; Cairo, 198. 

UnSSOUEI, 199 

Eivers, 200; St. Louis, 201 ; Jefferson City, 204; St. Joseph, 204. 

IOWA, 806 

Dubuque, Burlington, and other Cities and To^vns, 20T. 

MINNESOTA, 210 

Its Lakes and Rivers, 211; St. Paul and Vicinity, 213; Falls of St. Anthony, 313; Fort 
Snelling, 314 ; the Minnesota Valley, 316 ; Stillwater and Lake St. Croix, 217 ; Wi- 
nona, 318. 

WISCONSIN, 319 

ItsEivers, etc., 320; Milwaukee, 221 ; Madison, 222; GreenBayandits Surroundings, 234. 

MICHIGAN, 226i,i 

Detroit, 237 ; Grand Eapids, Kalamazoo, and other Cities and Towns, 239. 

KANSAS, 230 

Leavenworth, Lawrence, and other Towns, 333. | 

NEBRASKA, ~ . 233 

Omaha City and Vicinity, 333. 

CALIFORNIA, 235 

Its Discovery, History, and Settlement, 235 ; Voyage from New York, 336 ; San Francisco, 
240 ; Sacramento, 344 ; Mount Shasta, 346 ; Nevada Mountains, 348 ; Lake Tahoe, 351 
the Geysers, 353; Stockton and the Big" Tree Groves, 253; the Yo-Semite Valley, 257 
San Jose and the Almaden IVIines, 259 ; Voyage fi-om San Francisco up the Coast, 203 
Routes and distances, 264. |'jj 

OREGON, 265 

The Columbia and Willamette Rivers, 300 ; Mount Hood and the Cascade Range, 366 ; 
Portland and Routes thence, 267. 

WASHINGTON, 269 

Olympia and Puget Sound, 370 ; Trip to the British Possessions, 270. 

ARIZONA, 2711 

NEW MEXICO, . . . . . . . . 273 

NEVADA, 275 

Virginia, Carson, Austin, and other Towns, 275. 

UTAH, 277 

Great Salt Lake City and its Institutions, 278. 



CONTENTS. vii 

IDAHO, Page 280 

Boise City, Lewiston, and other Cities and Towns, 280. 
MONTANA, ... 283 

Koutes from Great Salt Lake City, 282 ; Virginia City and Helena, 283. 
COLORADO, , . 284 

Denver and its Vicinity, 284 ; Koutes, etc., 285. 
DACOTAH, . . .... . . . . ... . . . 286. 

MARYLAND, 291 

Baltimore and Vicinity, 292 ; Chesapeake Bay, 299 ; Baltimore and Ohio Eailway, 301 ; 
Places and Objects of Interest, 305. 

DISTEICT OF COLLTVLBIA, 311 

Washington City and Vicinity, 311 ; Alexandria, 321 ; Mount Vernon, 323. 

VIRGINIA, 325 

Richmond, 328 ; Norfolk, 330 ; Williamsburg, 331 ; Fredericksburg, 333 ; Charlottesville, 
334; Monticello and Winchester, 335; the Springs, etc., 336. 

TOETH CAROLINA, . 344 

Raleigh, Wilmington, and other Cities, 345 ; Mountain Region, etc., 347. 

;OUTH CAROLINA, . . 349 

Charleston and Vicinity, 350; Beaufort and the Lowlands, 355; Mountain Villages and 
Scenery, ,359 ; TorkviUe and Vicinity, 360. 

GEORGIA, 362 

Savannah and Vicinity, 364; Augusta, Atlanta, Macon, Milledgeville, and other Cities, 
36T ; the Mount>ain Region, 3T0 ; Toccoa and TaUulah Falls, 371 ; the Springs, 373. 

LORIDA, 375 

St. John's and St. Mary's Rivers, 376 ; St. Augustine and Vicinity, 377. 

.LABAMA, 381 

Mobile and Vicinity, 382 ; Montgomery, 384 ; Tuscaloosa, HuntsvOle, and other Cities, 
384 ; the Hill Region, 385. 

nSSISSIPPI, 386 

Jackson, 387 ; Vicksbm'g, Natchez, HoUy Springs, etc., 388. 
OUISIANA. 389 

New Orleans and Vicinity, 390 ; Railways and Routes, 399 ; Baton Rouge, 401. 
EXAS, 403 

Galveston, 404 ; Austin, Houston, and San Antonio, 405. 
RKANSAS, 407 

Little Rock, Fort Smith, Camden, 408. 
ENNESSEE, 409 

NashviUe and Vicinity, 410 ; Memphis, Chattanooga, and Lookout Mountain, etc., 412. 

ENTUCKT, 414 

Louisville and Vicinity, 415 ; Lexington and other Towns, 417 ; " Ashland " and " Wood- 
bum," 418; the Mammoth Cave, 419. 



viii CONTENTS. 

THE OmO EIVER, Page 4Sl 

From Pittsburg to Cairo. 
THE MISSISSIPPI RIYER, . . . ... . , 

From Cairo to New Orleans. 

THE BEITISH PROVINCES. 

CANADA, *. 4! 

Geography, Discovery, Government, etc, 435 ; Springs, Waterfalls, etc., 436 ; Montrea 
437 ; Montreal to Niagara Falls by Steamer, 440 ; Ottawa and the Rideau Falls, 44Ii 
Toronto and Hamilton, 443 ; the Lake Region, 444 ; Quebec, 446 ; the Sagaenay, 449. 

NEW BRUNSWICK, 4' 

The St. John River and Scenery, 452; Fredericton, St. Andrews, and other Towns, 453. 

NOVA SCOTIA, ■ 4 

Its Coast, Rivers, Lakes, and BaySj 454 ; Halifax and Vicinity, 455. 



INTRODUCTION. 



THE PLAN OF THE BOOK. 

In preparing the nintli year's issue of " Appletons' Hakd-Book," the 
editor lias thought it best to continue the original plan of the work, and 
follow the familiar geographical order of the several States, as that best 
adapted to the special tastes and convenience of travellers wishing to visit 
the respective points and objects of interest. Thus, in making the " South- 
ern Tour," the traveller starting from New York finds his true "point of 
departure " at Baltimore, in the chapter on Maryland. Continuing his 
route thence by steamer or rail, the Guide accompanies him through Vir- 
ginia and the Carolinas to the Gulf coast, and up the valley of the Lower 
Mississippi, till he finally reaches Louisville, Cincinnati, or St. Louis, on 
his return northward. The same with the Eastern, Northern, Pacific, and 
Canadian tours. Instead of selecting a particular route, and seeing all it 
offers of attraction, we have, with few exceptions, jumped at once to our 
especial destination, and then intimated the way by which it is reached. 
Thus, if the traveller happens to be in New York and desires to go to New 
Orleans, he will, by turning to New Orleans, in the chapter on Louisiana, 
find the routes thither. The chief cities are taken as starting-points for 
all other and lesser places in their neighborhood. Thus Philadelphia is 
made the point of radiation for Pennsylvania ; Charleston and Columbia 
for South Carolina ; Boston for Massachusetts ; Nashville for Tennessee ; 
San Francisco for California and the Pacific Coast, and so on. It has not, 
of course, been possible to mention every village or town in the Union, in 
the narrow limits of a pocket-volume like this. Sketches of many places 
which, owing to the difficulty of reaching them, are unavoidably left out, 
wiU, it is hoped, appear in future editions of the work. 

MONEY. 
United States Treasury notes (greenlacks) are everywhere current through- 
out the country. Gold and silver readily pass, but as they command a 



X INTRODUCTION. 

premium over paper, and are, moreover, less jjortable, tliey are less clesii 
able for the ti'aveller's- use. In California gold and silver are in gen 
cral circulation, and tlie traveller will find it convenient to use tber. 
in place of Treasury notes. The notes of Eastern banks should, on n 
account, be taken, as they may sometimes subject the holder to annoyance 
The safest and most convenient shape in which to put your money for cuii 
rent expenses on long trips is that of letters of credit or circular notes — th 
former being preferable. These are issued by the leading banking-house 
in New York and elsewhere in the United States. The well-known bank 
ing firms of Duncan, Sherman & Company, and Brown Brothers & Co. 
issue such letters, jjayable in all the principal Southern and Western citic; 
Their announcements will be found in oiir advertising columns. A reason; 
able supply of fractional currency (" stamps ") will save the traveller frei 
quent inconvenience in making change at railway stations, omnibui 
stands, etc. i 

t 
TEAYELLING EXPENSES. ' 

This is a sufiiciently important feature of the trip to merit a separate 
consideration. The cost of living and /ravelling throughout the Northerri 
and Southern States, with few exceptions, has materially increased since 
the war. Six to seven dollars a day will be found a fair estimate. (Foi 
hotel expenses, see Hotels.) 

BAGGAGE, 

" As little baggage as possible " is always a good rule, though a liberal 
supply is permitted on the railways, and almost any quantity on the steam- 
boats. On stage lines the prescribed limit of sixty to eighty pounds cani 
not be exceeded without extra charge. The "check" system, so univer-i 
sally practised throughout the North, has been pretty generally adopted; 
on th.e Southern lines of railway. Many of the omnibus lines in the South-i 
ern and far Western cities are reaping an ill-gotten harvest by imposing 
on the ignorance and credulity of strangers in this regard. As a general 
rule, the traveller will best consult Ms own convenience and interest by 
retaining his check until he ari-ives at his destination, and then proceeding 
to his hotel in a carriage with his baggage. If you purchase an omnibus 
ticket you have, in most instances, to pay separately for your baggage, 
either to the agent in the cars or in settling your bill at the hotel. In 
travelling by stage, or in making short trips from the centres of travel to 
the interior, a carpet-bag or small valise will be found the most convenient 
form of baggage, as in many instances it will be requisite for the traveller 
to pisLj the part of porter. 



INTRODUCTION. xi 

HOTELS. 

Witli few exceptions, the hotels of the princijpal cities South and West 
'"'Will compare favorably with those of the older and more thickly settled 
It Actions of the country, and perforce with those of any other part of the 
world. Barnum's and the Eutaw, in Baltimore ; the Metropolitan and 
Ebbett, in Washington ; the Exchange and Ballard's, in Eichmond ; the 
'liEMills House and Charleston Hotel, in Charleston; the Pulaski and the 
* Marsh all House in Savannah ; the St. Louis and St. Charles, in New Or- 
eans ; the Louisville, in Louisville ; the Southern and Everett Hotels (the 
Lindell Hotel rebuilding), in St. Louis ; and the Sherman and Tremont 
Houses, in Chicago, are all strictly first-class establishments. The charges at 
'"•these houses range from $3.50 to $5.00 per day, which includes everything 
except private parlors, wines, and extra attendance. Four dollars per day, 
or $28.00 a week, will be found a safe average. Other houses of good 
repute, having the best hotel accommodation the several cities afford, will 
be found throughout the work. Among the most desirable hotels in New 
York are the Fifth Avenue Hotel and the Hoffman House, on Madison 
quare, at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue ; the Everett 
House, occupying a conspicuous and eligible situation at the north end of 
Union Square, and the Brevoort Hou.se on Fifth Avenue, at its intersection 
with Eighth Street (Clinton Place). The last-named house has one of the 
most delightful locations in the city, combining the quiet retirement of a 
private mansion with ready access to Broadway and the leading thorough- 
fares. This has always been a favorite stopping-place with Eurojoeans 
visiting the United States. The plan upon which it is kept, and the sys- 
tem adoj)ted by its proprietary, being such as to specially commend it to 
those accustomed to European habits. From the observatory of the Fifth 
Avenue Hotel a fine view of the city and the neighboring bay is to be had. 
The house is fitted with a passenger-elevator, or vertical railway, for the 
use of guests. Those fond of the quiet and retirement of private life com- 
bined with the luxuries of hotel cuisine, will find the Everett a desirable 
stopping-place. The Hoffman House has been recently (1865) opened, and 
the furniture is new and of the best quality. The Hoffman is conducted 
on the European plan. The cuisine and attendance are excellent. For 
those who decide to make a stay in Philadelphia, on their way South or 
West, the Continental is the most desirable hotel. The well-known repu- 
tation of this fine house is well sustained by its present management, 
Messrs. Kingsley & Co. In Boston the Eevere and Tremont, American and 
United States, are the best worthy of patronage. The two former are 
especially adapted to families. The Lick House, and the Occidental and 
Cosmopolitan Hotels, in San Francisco, are admirably conducted establish- 
ments. Travellers through Canada will find the best accommodation at the 



xii INTRODUCTION. 

St. Lawrence Hall in Montreal, and at Russell's and tlie St. Louis i 

Quebec. 

WAITERS OR SERVANTS. 

It is not the custom in America, as in Europe, to fee waiters at i\ 
hotels, though it may very properly be done for especial personal servic 
It is often done by those who j)refer hot dinners to cold when they happe 
to " come late," or who may have a fancy for some rare dish when it uii 
luckily happens to be " all out." Waiters, especially the " unprofessionals. 
who largely outnumber the " regular hands," are frequently guilty of in 
pertinences in large poj)ular hotels. A word to the steward or head-waite 
a functionary always at hand in every well-regulated hotel dining-roon 
will speedily put matters right. On the other hand, let gentlemen remen 
ber that it is impossible for a waiter, however proficient, to wait on mo] i 
than one at a time and do it well. By due attention to these matter 
much needless annoyance will be saved. 

TICKETS. 

Tickets on the railways should be purchased at the railway office befoi | 
starting, otherwise a small additional charge will be made. If a Ion 
journey over various roads is intended, it is cheaper and more convenier 
to buy a tlirough ticket to the end of the route, or for as long a distance i 
possible. What are called "lay-over" or accommodation tickets, affordin 
opportunities to the traveller to visit points of interest on his line of routi 
can always be obtained on the leading through-lines. On the steamboal 
the tickets for passage, for meals, and berths, can be purchased at tli 
passenger's leisure at the " captain's office," 

OUTFITS, COSTUMES, Etc. 

At the springs and watering-places of the South and West, generally 
the same resources of toilet will be found necessary as in the city salon c 
the most fashionable resorts of the North — that is, for the ladies. The gei 
tlemen will best consult their own tastes and circumstances as regards thei 
wardrobe and outfit generally. Let me advise my reader, however, wha ci 
ever else he may omit to take, not to fail to supply himself with a trave 
ling suit equal to the wear and tear of rough mountain life. If the cole; 
be a gray or a brown, so much the better in the dust of railway and stag 
routes. Get a felt hat — ^it is not readily crushed on your head in car or cai 
riage, or blown overboard from steamboats. Storm, 178 Broadway, unde 
the Howard Hotel, has a fine assortment. Leave thin boots (this especiall 
to the ladies) at home, and go well and comfortably shod in stout calfsTcii 
It is a pity to be kej)t in-doors by the fear of spoiling one's gaiters or wel' 
ting one's feet, when the meadows and hills and brooks are inviting yo 
abroad. In mountain tramps, a generous-sized flask may be slung over th 



Si! 



iteii 



INTKODUCTIO^. xiii 



ihoulder witli very picturesque effect. If filled witli generous " coguac," 
beware of too picturesque an effect, especially if you be in the company of 
^ certain party. 

In the "way of clothing, the traveller cannot do better than call on Mr. 

Russell, No. 835 Broadway, corner of Thirteenth Street. All the gar- 
ments made by this long-established and well-known house are adapted to 
the wants of gentlemen of taste who appreciate style and quality in 
lothing. 

Brownell (late Brownell & Marvin), at No. 503 Broadway, in the St. 
p^Ticholas block, keeps a fine assortment of ready-made clothing and fur- 
nishing goods. 

A good trunk is an indispensable article of outfit for either lady or 
gentleman, Messrs. J. T. Smith & Co., at 344 Broadway, have the most 
extensive assortment in the city, embracing every kind of travelling pack- 
age from the largest sized " Saratoga," down to the smallest valise, carpet- 
sack, and haversack. Their goods are of the best quality and make. 

Edwin A. Brooks's boot and shoe store is at 575 Broadway, convenient 
;to the principal hotels. His stock of ready-made custom-work is large, 
and his fits are warranted. By leaving their measure, parties going into 
^he interior can be supplied at any given point. 
linj! Mr. Union Adams, at No. 637 Broadway, offers opportunities for 
making selections in gentlemen's furnishing goods unequalled elsewhere in 
New York. His stock is large and rich, embracing every thing in that line 
till required by the most fastidious. His assortment of shawls, travelling- 
bags, neglige shirts, scarfs, ties, etc., is especially complete. 

Berrian's house-furnishing store, on Broadway, is an excellent place to 
purchase goods. 

Semmons, at 669^ Broadway, under the Southern Hotel, has the best 
assortment of field, marine, and opera glasses to be found in New York. 

To the citizens of New York, not less than to those visiting it during 
the spring and early summer months, mineral waters and baths have be- 
come a necessity. Dr. Hanbury Smith's famous mineral-water establish- 
velfment, "The Spa," is pleasantly and centrally located at No. 808 Broadway, 
,)lo:near its intersection with Eleventh Street, Its health-giving waters, agree- 
able shade, and proximity to other objects of interest, combine to make it 
one of the pleasantest lounging-places of the metropolis. Baths are to be 
had at the Hygienic Institute and Bathing Establishment, No. 15 Laight 
lllStreet. It is a well-arranged and well-conducted establishment. Messrs, 
Miller, Wood & Co., proprietors. 

INSURANCE. 
Having laid in your necessary supplies, it only remains for you to insure 
yourself against accidents by sea or land, and the editor of the " Hand- 



Xiv INTRODUCTION. - \[ 

Book " having had recent experience in that line, would advise you iii.^ x.1 
omit to insure. The Travellers' Insurance Company of Hartford, whicl 
embraces several of the most reliable companies in the United States 
has its New York office at No. 207 Broadway. Policies are issued good fo; 
one year, one month, or one day. Mr. Rodney Dennis is the secretary and 5' 
Mr. R. M. Johnson the general agent of the company. 

STEAMSHIP LINES. 

The several lines of passenger steamships running between New York 
Baltimore, Savannah, Charleston, New Orleans, and San Francisco, afford 
except during inclement weather, the most pleasant means of reaching the 
Southern and Pacific States. The leading and best-conducted lines oJ, 
steamers now in operation from New York to our domestic ports are thci 
following : 

For Norfolk., Gity Pointy anU, Biclimond. — The steamers of the Old Linc;^ 
(New York and Virginia Company) sail every Wednesday and Saturday ai- 
3 p. M. for Norfolk and all points on the James River. The boats are com i 
modious and well-officered. G-. Heineken & Palmore, 115 BroadwayJi 
agents. The boats of the Old Dominion Steamship Comijany leave same| | 
days at noon. N. L. McOrady, 187 G-reenwich Street, agent. 

From Baltimore, the steamers Geo. Leary and Louisiana offer every in 
ducement to travellers. 

For Charleston. — The Messrs Leary dispatch one of their fine steamers 
from Pier No. 14, E. R., every Satmxlay at 3 o'clock. The Granada and 
Saragossa have first-class accommodations for cabin passengers. 

For Bavannali. — Messrs. Garrison & Allen, 5 Bowling Green, and 
Livingston, Fox & Co., dispatch regular steamers weekly for Savannah 
where immediate connection is made with the boats leaving that port foi 
St. Augustine, Pilatka, and other j)oints in Florida. The favorite side 
wheel steamships " San Jacinto " and " San Salvador " belong to the for- 
mer, and the " Hermann Livingston " and " General Barnes " to the lattcj 
line. Invalids bound for the Florida water-cures have ample choice he- 
tween the boats comprising either of these fine lines. 

For New Orleans. — Cromwell's line of first-class steamships, one of v/hieb 
leaves Pier No. 9, N. R., every Saturday at 3 p. m., has the confidence of|| 
the public. The Coastwise Company also dispatch a steamer every 
"Wednesday from Pier No. 29, foot of Warren Street. Mr. D. N. Carring- 
ton, at 177 West Street, is the agent. ' The steamers of the Atlantic CoastJlti 
Mail SteamshiiJ Company sail for New Orleans, semi-monthly, on the 1st 
and 15th of each month. 

For California. — The best line for San Francisco and all points on thei'^ili 
South Pacific and Central American coast is unquestionably that of the 
Pacific Mail Steamship Company. It is a through line, connecting at|' 



I pi 



I Pi 



(U 



INTRODUCTION. 



XV 



ma with the company's line of steamers on the Pacific. Three depart- 
:c|res each month, viz., on the 1st, 11th, and 21st. The boats of this line 

re ajjpointed, equipped, and officered equal, and as regards many impor- 
fo ant details superior, to the best European steamships. The passage to 
anc an Francisco is made by the steamers of the Pacific Mail Company in 

wenty-two days. The general office of the line is over the new banking- 

ouse of Messrs. Brown Brothers, 59 & 61 "Wall Street. Shipping and ticket 

ffice, Pier No. 42, foot of Canal Street. 



OBLIGATIONS. 



Our obligations are due to the entire United States and Canadian Press 
ov their unceasing endeavors to keep us informed of the rapid changes 

*' ranspiring in their respective localities, as well as for their numerous con- 
ributions to local and state history, descriptive sketches, etc., etc. Below 

'"'i^ill be found a list of authorities referred to in the work. 

^'' "We are specially indebted to Mi\ C. E. Watkins,* and Messrs. Lawrence 
nd Houseworth, of San Francisco, for their fine pictures of scenery in Cali- 
arnia and on the Pacific coast; to Mi-. Edward Vischer, of San Francisco, 
f)r his fine collection of drawings in the same region ; to Messrs Savage 
Jid Ottinger, of Great Salt Lake City ; to Mr. Eugene Pifiet, of ISTew Or- 
feans; Mr. Saucier, of Mobile; Mi*. Linn, of Chattanooga, and other photo- 
'raphic artists throughout the Union who have kindly furnished us with 
iews of prominent objects of interest in their several localities. We re- 
Tet that lack of time and space compel us to exclude their contributions 
[•om our pages. It is decided to make future issues of the Hand-book 
niform in style and appearance with the present work. 

For much valuable information contained in the following pages we 
re indebted to the recently-published Directories of New York, Philadel- 
hia, Boston, New Orleans, Baltimore, Mobile, Cincinnati, Memphis, Chi- 
ago, St. Louis, San Francisco, Albany, Milwaukee, Richmond, Va., St. 
*aul, Virginia City, Nevada, Portland, Oregon, and Austin, Nevada. 

We are also under obligations to Mr. A. Gensoul, of San Francisco, for 
set of his recently published maps. 

Thankful to one and all for their valuable assistance, we shall endeavor 
merit a continuance of their favors. 



AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO IN THE WORK. 

.rizona and Sonora, by Sylvester Mo wry. 

Speeches and Letters of Governor Richard 0. McCormiek. 
Forth Carolina, Historical Sketches of, by John H. Wheeler. 
aUfornia Guide, etc., by J. M. Hutchings. 



* Views of the To-Semite Valley by this clevc-r artist can be obtained in New York of the 
litor. 



Xvi INTRODUCTION. 

Second Ascent of Mount Shasta. — J. McKee. 

Maple Leaves-Legends, Historical and Critical Papers on Canada, by J. M. Le Moine 

Quebec. 
The Canadian Hand-Book, by J. Taylor. 
A Run through Canada, by E. Hepple Hall. 
Colorado. Letters on, to the Nevi York Tribune, by A. D. Richardson. 

Sketches, by Bayard Taylor. 

Denver, History of. — D. 0. Wilhelra. 
Guide to the Connecticut Valley. — H. M. Bent. 
The Great West, Guide and Hand-book to. 
The Mammoth Cave, Guide to.— C. W. Wright. 
Statistical Gazetteer of Maryland. 
Boston, Guide to City and Suburbs. — R. L. Midgley. 
Missouri, Hand-book to. — ^N. H. Parker. 
Saint Louis, Narrative of Settlement. — A. Chouteau. 
Minnesota, Prize Essays by Messrs. M. J. Colbum and W. R. Smith. 
New York, Sanitary Condition of. — Citizens' Association. 

Manual of Common Council. — D. T. Valentine. 

Guide to Central Park. — T. Addison Richards. 

Albany, Random Recollections of. — G. A. Worth, 

Hudson River, Guide to. — T. Addison Richards. 

The Catskills, Scenery of. 

Forest Acadia. — T. 0. H. P. Bumham. 
Eastman's White Mountain Guide. 
Pacific Coast Directory, 1865-'66.— H. G. Langley. 
Pennsylvania, Valley of Wyoming. 

The Oil Region of, by H. H. Simmons. 
Philadelphia, Strangers' Guide. — Lindsay and Blakiston. 
As It Is, by R. A. Smith. 
Laurel Hill Cemetery, Guide to. — ^R. A. Smith. 
NcTvport, Rhode Island, Illustrated. — George C. Mason. 
Geological Reconnoissance of Tennessee. — Jas. M. Safford. 
Salt Lake, Exploration and Survey of. — Captain H. Stansbury. 
The City of the Saints, by Richard P. Burton. 
The National Almanac, 1865. 
Military and Naval History of the Rebellion. — W. J. Tenney. 
Field-Book of the Revolution, \ 

Pictorial History of the Civil War, [• by B. J. Lossing. 
Biography of Eminent Americans, ) 
Panama Railroad Guide, by Dr. F. N. Otis. 
Pacific and Territorial Guide. — S. M. Holdridge. 

We regret that tlie Pacific Coast Directory (1867), just published oy Mr. 
Henry G. Langley, and a valuable historical work on the discovery of gold; 
in Califoruia, by Mr. Edward E. Dunbar, President of the Travellers' Club,l 
N. y., did not reach us in time for our chapter on that region, j 



:,{ 



■ar 



APPLETOl^S' 
HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL. 



THE UOTTED STATES. 

The territory of the United States, through which we propose to travel 
1 our present volume, occupies an area of 2,936,166 square miles, little less 
lan that of the entire continent of Europe, In form it is nearly a paral- 
logram, with an average length of 2,400 miles from east to west, and a 
ean breadth from north to south of 1,300 miles. It lies between 24° 
)', and 49° north latitude, and between 60° 50' and 124° 30' west longi- 
me. 

ExTEJTT. — Its extreme length and breadth are, respectively, 2,700 and 
600 miles, reaching from the Atlantic on the east to the Pacific on the west, 
id from British America on the north to the Gulf of Mexico and the 
exican Eepublic on the south. The entire frontier line slightly exceeds 
),000 miles in length. 

Divisions. — Its present division is into thirty-six States and nine Terri- 
ries, independent of the District of Columbia. The States have been popu- 
Irly grouped according to their geographical position into the following 
ivisions or sections, viz. : The Eastern or ISTew England group, embracing 
tiine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Ehode Island, and Oon- 
cticnt ; the Middle group, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Dela- 
ire, and Maryland ; the Southern States : Virginia, North Carolina, South 
irolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, and 
•kansas ; and the Western States, comprising Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, 
diana, Illinois, Michigan, loAva, "Wisconsin, Missom-i, California, Oregon, 
nnesota, Kansas, and Nebraska. 

All the Territories, viz., Utah, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Dakotah, 

izona, Washington, New Mexico, and Indian Territory, are included in 

1 1 



THE UNITED STATES. 

this division of the country. The District of Columbia is a small territory 
set apart as the seat of the National Government. The following table 
shows the census of the respective States and divisions by the last United 
States census (1860) : 

The District of Columbia (D. C.) 75,076 

THE EASTERN, OR NEW ENGLAND STATES. 



Connecticut (Conn.) 460,151 

Ehode Island (R. I.) 174,621 

Massachusetts (Mass.) 1,231,065 



NewHampshire(X. H.)... 826,072 

Vermont (Yt.) 315,116 

Maine (Me.) 628,276 



Total 3,135,301 

THE MIDDLE STATES. 



New York (N. T.) 3,887,542 

New Jersey (N. J.) 672,031 

Pennsylvania (Pa.) 2,906,370 



Delaware (Del.) 112,2181 

Maryland (Md.) 487,034 [ 



Total 8,265,192 i 

THE SOUTHERN STATES. 



Virginia (Va.) 1,596,083 

North Carolina (N. C). . . 992,667 
South Carolina (S. C.) . . . . 703,812 

Georgia (Ga.) 1,057,327 

Florida (Fla.) 140,439 



Alabama (Ala.) 964,29f 

Louisiana (La.) 709,43? 

Texas (Tes.) 601, 03( 

Mississippi (Miss.) 791, 39f 

Arkansas (Ark.) 435,42 , 



Total 7,991, 90£ 

THE WESTERN STATES. 



Tennessee (Tenn.) 1,109,847 

Kentucky (Ky.) 1,155,713 

Ohio(0.) 2,339,599 

Indiana (la.) 1,350,479 

Minnesota (Minu .) 1 72, 022 

Illinois (HI.) 1,711,753 

Michigan (Mich.) 749,112 

Wisconsin (Wis.) 775,873 

Total 



Iowa(Io.) 674,94; 

Missouri (Mo.) 1,183,31'i 

Orea;on (Or.) 52,464 

California (Cal.) 380,01.^ 

Kansas (Kan.) 107,11( 

Nebraska (Neb.) 28,84^ 

Nevada 6,85*; 



New Mexico 93,541 

Washington 11,578 

Utah 40,295 

Colorado 34,197 

Montana (1865), estimated 25,000 



TERRITORIES. 

Dakotah 

Idaho (1865), estimated 

Arizona (1865), estimated. . . 
Indian Ter. (1865), estimated 



.11,797,95: 



4,83l 
25,00( 
15,001 

4,00i 



Total 253,45' 



Grand total. 

2 



31,518,88 



THE UNITED STATES. 

Of the free population in 1860, 23,353,386 were born in tlie United 
States, and 4,186,175 in foreign countries. In addition to the above, it is 
estimated tliat nearly half a million of Indians or aborigines exist within 
the present territory of the United States. The number of these is, how- 
ever, rapidly diminishing. 

The population of the country is largely and steadily augmented by 
emigration. From 184T to 1860, 2,598,214 emigrants arrived, and since the 
close of the late war the number of arrivals has averaged two hundred and 
fifty thousand a year. They come mainly from Germany and the British 
isles. 

GovEENMEN'T. — The government of the United States is a confederation 
of the several States delegating a portion of their power to a central govern- 
ment, whose laws are always paramount to State authority. The governing 
power is divided into legislative, judicial, and executive. The Executive 
power is vested in a President and Yioe-President, elected by the people, 
who hold their term of oflBlce for four years. The legislative power is ex- 
ercised by a Congress composed of two branches, a Senate and House of 
Eepresentatives ; the former representing the several States in their sover- 
eign capacity, and the House of Eepresentatives the people. The members 
of the ISTational Legislature are respectively known as Senators, members of 
Congress, and delegates or Territorial members. The Congress is held 
annually at "Washington. The judiisiary consists of a suj)reme court, nine 
circuit, and forty-seven district-courts. The supreme court is presided 
over by a chief and eight associate justices, who hold their appointmenta 
during life or good behavior. 

HiSTOET, Etc. — The earliest settlements within the present territory of 

the United States were made in Florida, about 1565 ; but as this State was 

4fi not acquired till 1819, it is usual to date the commencement of the settle- 

lili ment of the colonies which formed the foundation of the present Union, 

■1" From the settlement of Jamestown, Virginia, in 1607. New York was set- 

'^.i iled by the Dutch, in 1614; Massachusetts, at Plymouth, in 1620; and New 

_ Hampshire and Maine in 1623. "Washington, D. C, is the capital of the 

,9o CTnited States, and New York its chief commercial city. Next to the latter 

;he most important cities are Philadelphia, Baltimore. Boston, Brooklyn, 

!:^'ew Orleans, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Chicago, San Francisco, Buffalo, Pitts- 

i,™ jurg, Newark, LouisviUe, Albany, and Providence. 

.'■iD The military history of the nation is properly divided into four periods or 

ijlO jpochs, known respectively as the "War of the Revolution, the "War of 1812, 

he "War with Mexico, and the Eebellion. The first and most eventful of 

hese closed with the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, October 19, 

.781. The war of 1812 is conspicuous for the battles of Lundy's Lane and 

3 



\$ 



THE UNITED STATES. 

JSTew Orleans, the former of which was fought July 25, 1814, and the latter 
January 8, 1815. The war with Mexico commenced May 8, 1846, and vir- 
tually closed with the occupation of the city of Mexico (September 20, 1847) 
by the United States forces under General Scott. The late Eebellion com- 
menced with the attack on Fort Sumter, in the harbor of Cliarleston, South 
Carolina (April 11, 1861), and closed with the occupation of Eichmond 
and the surrender of Generals Lee and Johnston, April, 1865. 

The leading military movements which have at different times been 
carried on within the territory of the United States wiU be found briefly 
recorded in the chapters descriptive of the localities in which they occurred^ 
as will also the leading subjects of interest throughout the country. 



New Yokk ] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York. 



NEW YORK 



The first State in the Union in popula- 
tion, in wealth, and in commercial import- 
ance, exceeded by none in the fertility of 
its soil and the healthfulness of its cli- 
mate, unsurpassed in the variety and 
beauty of its natural scenery, and in its 
historical associations, New York is ap- 
propriately called the Empire State. 

Its length from east to west is 835 
miles, and its breadth about 300 miles, 
embracing an area of about 30,000,000 
acres. 

The earliest settlements within the 
State were made by the Dutch, at Fort 
Orange (Albany), and at New Amster- 
dam, now New York City. This was in 
1614, five years after the voyage of 
Hendrick Hudson up the waters of that 
river which now bears his name. 

In 1664 the colony fell into the posses- 
sion of the English, was recaptured by 
the Dutch in 16^3, and finally came again 
under British rule in 16*74, and so con- 
tinued until the period of the Revolution. 
Many stirring events transpired within 
this territory during the wars between 
France and England, in 1690, 1702, and 
1744, and through all the years of the 
War of Independence. These events the 
traveller will find duly chronicled as he 
reaches the various locations where they 
transpired, in the course of our proposed 
travels. 

Every var iety of surface and every char- 
acter of physical aspect are found within 
the great area of New York ; vast fer- 
tile plaius and grand mountain ranges, 
meadows of richest verdure, and wild 
forest tracts, lakes innumerable and of 
infinite variety in size and beauty, water- 
falls unequalled on the continent for ex- 
tent and grandeur, and rivers matchless 
in picturesque charms. We need not 
now recount these wonders, as our rambles 



will aiford us, by and by, abundant op- 
portunity to see them all in turn and 
time — the peaks and gorges of the Adi- 
rondacks and the Catskills, the floods 
of Niagara, and the ravines of Trenton, 
the j)ure placid waters of Lake George, 
the mountain shores of Champlain, the 
deer-filled wildernesses and the highland 
passes of the Hudson, and all the intri- 
cate reticulation of cities, towns, villages, 
villas, and watering-places. 

The principal cities of the State are 
the metropolis. New York, Brooklyn, Buf- 
falo, Albany, Troy, Rochester, Syracuse, 
Oswego, Hudson, etc. 

Though originally settled by the Dutch, 
and in the social features of many por- 
tions of its extended territory still par- 
taking largely of the characteristic traits 
of that people, the constant and increas- 
ing inffusion of New England and of 
foreign population has contributed to 
give to New York a more thoroughly 
cosaiopolitan character than is enjoyed 
by any other State or people of the 
Union. 

The internal improvements of the State 
are vast and important. Among the most 
prominent public works are the Erie 
Canal, 364 miles long, completed in 1825, 
at a cost of $7,000,000. This work, with 
its numerous branches and feeders, em- 
bracing a system of artificial communica- 
tion of nearly 1,000 miles, constitutes by 
far the most important line of public 
works on the continent. But New York 
has natural advantages greater far than 
canal or railway alone can bestow. She 
has 365 miles of lake coast, 206 miles of 
interior lake, and 245 miles of river navi- 
gation. The foreign imports of the State 
for 1862-'63, amounted to $196,000,000, 
and the exports for the same year to 
$247,500,000. 



Railways.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City, 



Divisions. — The State is divided into 
60 counties, and contains a jiopulation 
of nearly 4,590,000, of ■whom upward of 
one-lialf were born iu the State. Albany, 
pleasantly situated at the head of steam- 
boat navigation on the Hudson Kiver, 
150 miles north of Nev/ York City, is the 
capital. 

Railways. — The railway system of the 
State embraces nearly 3,000 miles of road, 
the construction and equipment of which 
cost upward of $133,000,000. The fol- 
lowing list embraces the most important 
and most frequently travelled lines : 

(See also Routes, Skeleton tours, etc.) 

The New York and Erie Railway, 
4G0 miles through the State, from the 
city of New York to Dunkirk, or 422 to 
Buffalo (Branch), on Lake Erie. 

The Hudson River Railway, New York 
City, 144 miles to Albany, or 152 to 
Troy, along the banks of the Hudson 
Kiver. 

The Harlem Railway, from New York, 
154 miles to Albany. 

The New York Central Railway, from 
Albany, 298 miles to Buffalo ; or to Niag- 
ara Falls, 327 miles. 

Rensselaer and Saratoga Raihoay, from 
Troy to Saratoga Springs, 32 miles; to 
Whitehall, 73 miles. 

3fontreal and New York, and Plaits- 
burg and Montreal Railways, 62 miles 
from Plattsburg, on Lake Champlain ; to 
Montreal, Canada. 

Ogdenshurg and Lake Champlain Rail- 
ivay, from Ogdenshurg, 118 miles to 
Rouse's Point. 

Mack River and JJtica Railway, from 
Utica (New York Central Railway), 35 
miles to Boonville. 

Rome, Wateriown, and Ogdenshurg 
Railway, from Rome (New York Central 
Railway), 142 miles to Ogdenshurg. 

Newburgh branch of New York and 
Erie Railway, from Newburgh, on the 
Hudson, to Chester. 

Osivego and Syracuse Railivay, from 
Syracuse, (New York Central Railway), 
35 miles to Oswego, Lake Ontario. 

Syracuse, BingJiamton, and New York 
Railway, from Syracuse, 80 miles to Bing- 
haraton. 

Elmira, Canandaigua, and Niagara 
Falls Railway, from Elmira 168 miles 
6 



(Erie Railway), to Suspension Bridge, 
Niagara. 

Buffalo, Coming, and New York Rail- 
way, from Corning (Erie Railway), 100 
miles to Batavia, or 94 miles to Rochester 
(New York Central Railway). 

Williamsport and Elmira Railway, from 
Elmira (Erie Railway), 78 miles south to 
Williamsport, Pa. 

Corning, Rlossbiirg, and Tioga Rail- 
ivay, 41 miles from Coi'ning (Erie Rail- 
way), to Blossburg, Pa. 

Lake Shore Railway, from Buffalo, via 
Dunkirk, by the shore of Lake Erie, 183 
miles, to Cleveland, Ohio, and the West. 

Hudson and Boston Railway, from Hud- 
son, on the Hudson River, eastward to 
West Stcckbridge, Mass., 34 miles, where 
it connects with the Housatonic Railway. 

Western (J/«ss.) Railway, from Albany, 
49 miles to Pittsfield. 

Neio York and New Haven Railway, 
from New York 76 miles to New Haven, 
Conn., thence to Boston, etc. 

Zong Island Railway, 99 miles from 
New York (James Slip or 34th Street 
Ferry); through the entire length of Long 
Island, to Greenport. 

Slaten Island Railway, from Pier 1, 
E. R., 11 miles to Tottenville. 

For other railways terminating in New 
York City, see railways in New Jersey, 
etc. 

NEW YORK CITY. 

The metropolis of the State of New 
York, and the chief city of the United 
States, is situated on the Island of Man- 
hattan, at the junction of the Hudson 
and East Rivers, 20 miles from the At- 
lantic Ocean. Toe limits of the City 
are coextensive with those of the county, 
embracing the entire island, which is 1 3^ 
miles in length, and 2i miles at its 
greatest breadth. Including the sub- 
urban cities of Brooklyn, Jersey City, 
and Hoboken, which properly belong to 
New York, it is by far the most popu- 
lous and important city of the American 
Continent. The City Hall is in latitude 
40° 42' 43" N., and 74° 0' 3" W. longi- 
tude. The most busy and densely in- 
habited portions of the city proper occu- 
py an area embracing nearly four square 
miles at the southern extremity of the 



New York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York Citx. 



sland of Maiihattan. With a population 
exceeding 1,000,000, and increasing at 
,he rate of 50 per cent, every 10 years, 
S^ew York is already third in size among 
he cities of Christendom, and bids fair at 
very distant day to rival all except 
lOndon itself. It is divided into twenty- 
two wards, and is governed by a mayor 
ind common council. The mayor is 
ilected by popular vote, and holds office 
wo years. The common council is com- 
JDOsed of two boards, seventeen alder- 
mcD, elected for a term of two years, 
constituting one board, and twenty-five 
:ouncilmen, chosen annually, forming the 
jther. 

The early history of the city of New 
STork is involved in no inconsiderable 
legree of uncertainty. The Norse or 
Northmen, as is affirmed by Scandina- 
vian records, visited these shores, which 
ivere then known as part of the ancient 
^ineland, as early as 1514. The gen- 
erally acknowledged commencement of 
JEuropean civilization in this part of the 
taowly discovered continent, however, 
pommenced with the arrival, in the Bay 
f New York, of Hendrick Hudson, an 
Englishman in the service of the Dutch 
3ast India Company, who arrived at the 
site of the present city, September 3, 
1609. He afterwards sailed up the river 
vhich now bears his name in a vessel 
jailed the Half Moon. In 1614 an ex- 
)edition under Captains Black and Chris- 
ianse, arrived, and commenced the set- 
lement of the future city. At the close 
bf that year the future metropolis of New 
fork consisted of a small fort, on the 
ite of the present Bowling Green, and 
bur houses, and was known as "Nieuw 
imsterdam." As late as 1048 it con- 
ained but 1,000 inhabitants. In 1664 
t was surrendered to the British, and, 
lassing into the hands of the Duke of 
Tork, was thenceforward known as New 
fork. In l&'J'l it contained 384 houses, 
n 1*700 the population had increased to 
bout 6,000. Eleven years subsequent- 
Y, a market for slaves was opened in 
Vail Street ; and in 1*725 a weekly paper, 
be JVew York Gazette, made its first ap- 
earance. On June 5i8, 1'7'76, the Brit- 
"^h army and fleet entered the bay of 
"ew York, and effected a landing on 
taten Island. Crossing the Narrows, 



they encountered the American forces 
near Brooklyn (August 22d), and fought 
the battle of Long Island. For eight 
years succeeding this battle, New York 
remained the headquarters of the British 
troops, during which time many build- 
ings were either destroyed or despoiled. 
The British forces evacuated the city 
November 25, 1*783, which has since 
been known as Evacuation Day, and is 
annually celebrated. Within ten years 
after the War of Independence, New 
York had doubled its population. In 
1807 the first steamboat to navigate the 
Hudson was built. The completion of 
the great Erie Canal followed in 1825, 
and the Croton Aqueduct in 1842, since 
which time the progress of the city, in 
spite of fire and pestilence which has 
often visited it, has been rapid and per- 
manent. The city contains 18 main 
streets or avenues, and upward of 1,000 
streets, courts, and lanes. Broadway, 
the Bowery, and Canal Street, are its 
leading thoroughfares. The first of 
these, for the costly magnificence of its 
buildings, and the varied display of mer- 
chandise, is perhaps without an equal in 
the world. The leading hotels, theatres, 
and retail stores, are located in Broad- 
way. Fifth Avenue, the favorite resort 
of fashion, runs parallel with Broadway, 
a little west of that street. It is upward 
of three miles in length, and contains some 
of the finest private residences to be 
found in the city. Madison Avenue, 
Fourteenth and Twenty-third Streets, and 
many of the squares, also have fine pri- 
vate residences. For a more extended 
description of these fine streets the reader 
is referred to Walks, Promenades, et- 
cetera. 

Hotels, etc. — The first consideration 
of the stranger or traveller, arriving in 
New York, is to procure comfortable 
quarters. In this matter he will have all 
needed faciUty. No city in the world 
surpasses New York, either in the splen- 
dor or extent of its hotel accommodation, 
while in the number and excellence of its 
lodging and boarding houses, and res- 
taurants, it is far in advance of any other 
city on the American continent. As the 
Hand-book is designed for popular use, 
the editor will endeavor to meet the 
tastes and wishes of all, by treating of 
Y 



New York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City-. 



each of these descriptions of accommo- 
dation briefly, under separate heads. 

Of hotels, there are upward of 140 in 
the city proper. The Fifth Avemce Ho- 
tel is unsurpassed for the extent of its ac- 
commodation, and the excellence and good 
taste with which it is furnished. It has 
many conveniences and advantages over 
(.'ther strictly first-class hotels. Its loca- 
tion, at the intersection of Fifth Avenue 
and Broadway, facing Madison Square, is 
one of the best the city affords, com- 
manding easy access by means of numer- 
ous lines of street railways, with the 
down-to ivn business quarters, and a 
pleasant strolling-ground or ramble for 
ladies and children. It is built of marble, 
and is six stories high. This otherwise 
objectionable feature is made subservient 
to a mechanical contrivance, known as a 
vertical railway, by means of which 
guests can reach their rooms or any part 
of the house with ease and despatch. It 
has accommodation for 1,100 guests. 
Darling, Griswold and Co., are the pro- 
prietors. The Hoffman House, at the cor- 
ner of Fifth Avenue and Twenty-fifth 
Street, also directly facing Madison 
Square, and immediately north of the 
Fifth Avenue, is an admirably conducted 
house. It is conducted on the European 
plan, and has a well-ordered restaurant 
attached. The rooms are commodious 
and newly furnished, and the cuisine ex- 
cellent. It is under the management of 
Messrs. Mitchell & Read. The J^eiv 
York Hotel, on Broadway, at its intersec- 
tion with Waverley Place, is a well-kept 
house, much patronized by Southern and 
Cuban travellers. H. Cranston, propri- 
etor. The Southern Hotel (late Lafarge) 
is on the same side of Broadway, opposite 
Bond Street. The Astor, opposite the City 
Hall, is one of the oldest and most popu- 
lar houses in New York. It is under the 
able management of the Messrs. Stetson. 
It is constructed wholly of Quincy gran- 
ite, and contains 326 chambers. Its noble 
facade of over 200 feet on Broadway, 
renders it one of the most prominent ob- 
jects in that quarter of the city. The 
Metropolitan and the St. Nicholas, on 
Broadway, above Canal Street, are both 
excellent houses. In the busy trade 
season, merchants from the interior 
States, and indeed from all parts of the 



world, are to be found here, the register 
of either house frequently showing 
many as three hundred arrivals a day. 
Tlie Everett House, facing Union Square, 
has one of the most delightful locations 
in the city : it is especially a desirable house 
for families : the cuisine and attendance 
are such as to recommend it to those 
capable of appreciating the comforts of 
home life. The Brevoort House, in Fifth 
Aveniie, corner of Eighth Street (Clinton 
Place), and the Clarendon, in Fourth Av- 
enue, at the coi'ner of Seventeenth Street, 
are both good houses, and are much 
frequented by English travellers. The St. 
Denis, corner of Broadway and Eleventh 
Street, and the St. Germahi, on Twenty- 
second Street, at the intersection of 
Broadway and Fifth Avenue, are both 
desirable houses, with good restaurants 
attached. The Gramerci/ Farlc House 
has a retired and beautiful location in 
one of the most pleasant neighborhoods 
for a family hotel, between Twentieth 
and Twenty-first Streets. The Albemarle 
is a quiet and well-conducted house, in 
Twenty-fourth Street, in the immediate 
neighborhood of Madison Square, the 
Fifth Avenue, and all the leading up- 
town hotels. 

Restaurants. — The restaurants of New 
York rank next to the hotels in import- 
ance, and are much more numerous. For 
gentlemen travelling alone these establish- 
ments offer many inducements, not least 
among which are the greater attention 
extended to them by their keepers 
Nothing is more common than for New 
Yorkers, including ladies and persons oi 
distinction, to dine or sup at a restaurant, 
Restaurants are of two kinds : the first 
and most popular, where meals are served 
cl la carte ; the other at a fixed sum per 
meal. JDelmonico^s, in Fifth Avenue, oc- 
cupying the entire square between Four 
teeuth and Fifteenth Streets, is the largest 
establishment of the kind in this or per- 
haps any other city ; another estaljlish 
ment, on the corner of Broadway and 
Chambers Street, kept by the same firm 
serves excellent dinners. The Maisor, 
Doree, facing Union Square, in Fourteenth 
Street, west of Broadway, is famous for 
its suppers. The wines served at these 
houses may be relied on. Salles m 
Societe, or private rooms, furnished. Tay^ 



New York Cit?.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New Yoek City. 



lor^s (International), at 365 Broadway, 
corner Franklin Street, which was opened 
in 1853, and continued the most famous 
resort of the kind up to the rebelUon, has 
lately been closed as a restaurant. 3fail- 
larcVs, 621 Broadway, north of Houston, 
is an excellent restaurant and confection- 
ery, much frequented by ladies, as is also 
Mendes. The ice cream and other summer 
delicacies served at Maillard's have no su- 
perior in the city. Among the down-town 
restaurants Belmonicd' s and Berry^s, in 
Broad Street, are the most largely patron- 
ized. They are in the immediate neigh- 
borhood of the Stock Exchange and Wall 
Street. Dining-rooms and lunch-counters 
are attached to each. SutherlancVs, on 
Cedar Street, between Broadway and Nas- 
sau, is also an excellent lunch-house. 
Ca/es.— These are few, and comparatively 
speaking poorly patronized by Americans. 
The French and Spanish population go to 
a cafe to take a demitasse of coffee and 
a petit verre de liqueur, instead of sitting 
over their wine at a hotel or restaurant. 
The Cafe du Commerce, in Broadway, 
north of Canal St., is among the best of 
its class. 

Lodging and Boarding Houses. — 
These abound in every quarter of the city, 
and embrace every kind and quality of 
accommodation, from the luxuriously fur- 
nished parlor suite on Murray Hill or 
Madison Square, to the third floor back 
room or hall chamber in the down-town 
quarter. Boarding-house fare and ac- 
commodation are poor at the best ; and 
strangers visiting New York have gen- 
erally learned to avoid them. Furnished 
apartments in private houses [maisons 
mcublees), from a complete range or suite 
adapted for housekeeping, to a single 
chamber, can be had in almost every lo- 
cality in New York, at prices ranging 
from $20 to $100 per month. It is not 
however, customary, nor is it advantage- 
ous, to take apartments for a stay of a 
few days. Lodgings may be hired by the 
night, week, or month. Except for the 
latter period, which may be made a mat- 
ter of special agreement, payment is al- 
ways expected in advance. The Daily 
"Herald" furnishes the most complete list 
of " rooms, etc., to let." A distinguishing 
social feature of New York, among other 
cities of America, is its clubs. 



Clubs. — These answer to the cercles of 
Paris, and are twenty in number. The 
best are the Union, on Fifth Avenue, cor- 
ner Twenty-first Street ; the Neiv York, 
No. 1 East Fifteenth Street ; ManluMan, 
96 Fifth Avenue ; the Century, 42 East 
Fifteenth Street ; the Athencenm, 23 
Union Place ; the American Jockey Club; 
the Travellers', 222 Fifth Avenue ; the 
City, 31 Union Place ; and the Union 
League, 26 East Seventeenth Street. The 
Union Club House is the finest structure 
of its kind in the city. It is of brown- 
stone, and cost $300,000 to build. There 
are also several yacht, chess, cricket, and 
skating clubs and club-hcu^es. The 
grounds and house of the St. George's 
Cricket Club are at Hoboken, near the 
Elysian Fields. 

The Saloons of New York form a dis- 
tinctive feature of metropolitan life ; 
many of these establishments, in their ex- 
tent and the brilliancy of their interior 
fittings, being scarcely excelled by the 
famous cafes of the French metropolis. 
The most admired and frequented are 
those of the Metropolitan, St. Nicholas, 
and I^fth Avenue Hotels, and the Rotun- 
da of the Astor House, The bars of the 
three first-named afford fine specimens of 
a kind of adornment much in vogue in 
the metropolis. The Oyster Saloons are 
numerous, and generally well conducted. 
The daily consumption of oystei'S in New 
York has been valued at $25,000. Up- 
ward of 1,500 boats are constantly engaged 
in the trade. Willard^s and the Oyster 
Bay, on Broadway, are famous resorts for 
the lovers of this delicious dish. 
■ Terms, Prices, &c. — Charges at the 
leading hotels are $5 per day, which in- 
cludes every thing except -nine and extra 
attendance. At many of the smaller 
houses, moderate-sized rooms and board 
can be had at prices ranging from $3 to 
$4 per day, but they are not always de- 
sirable on that account. As a general 
rule, the stranger would do well to patron- 
ize only those hotels mentioned in this 
guide. The prices of furnished apart- 
ments in choice localities range from $8 
to $15 per week. When board is in- 
cluded, $6 to $10 per week more is 
charged. Prices at restaurants are wholly 
regulated by bill of fare, except " ordi- 
naries" are served, in which case 75 cents 
9 



New York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New YoiiK City. 



tc)$l for tliiinerwill be found the average 
charge. We would caution the stranger 
in New York against too great haste in 
selecting rooms or board. Be not de- 
ceived by appearances. While there is 
no lack of respectable boarding and 
lodging houses in the city, there is a still 
larger number of establishments, known 
as boarding-houses, which the stranger 
will do well to avoid. 

CoNvr.TANCES. — The most popular con- 
veyance in New York is undoul3tedly the 
street car, stage, or omnibus. Their 
cheapness and despatch equally commend 
them to general use. Of the former there 
are thirteen distinct lines, and twenty- 
nine of the latter, which extend to every 
part of the city. A uniform charge of six 
cents is made for each passenger on the 
cars, and ten cents on the stages. (See 
City Directory.) 

Carriages, Hackney Coaches, etc. — 
These can be hired by the hour, day, or 
trip. A city ordinance requires each driver 
to keep his schedule of prices posted up 
inside his conveyance, but this very wise 
measure is not always carried out. They 
will, however, genei-ally be found at the 
leading hotels. In no case should an 
overcharge be submitted to. If travellers 
and strangers would but insist on their 
rights in this matter, they would be more 
generally respected. Carriage and hack 
drivers, as a general rule, if left to decide 
for themselves between a license to do 
right and the liberty to do wrong, will 
not be slow to adopt the latter alterna- 
tive. Separate charges ai-e made for one- 
horse and two-horse carriages. The 
former are known as cabriolets or cabs. 
Hansoms or London Safetys have been 
recently introduced, but it will be long 
before they become popular. When con- 
veyances are engaged by the hour, the 
driver should be notified on entering; 
otherwise he can demand the price of " a 
course " for each stoppage. 

Ferries. — There are twenty-six lines of 
ferries running between the several ferry 
landings in New York and Brooklyn, 
Greenpoint, Hoboken, Hunter's Point, 
Jersey City, Mott Haven, Pavonia, Staten 
Island, Weehawken, and Fort Lee. 



10 



NORTH ElVER. 

Nno Jersey Central Railroad. — From 
Liberty Street to Communipaw, N. J. 

Jersey City Ferry. — From Cortlandt 
Street to Montgomery Street, Jersey City, 
three cents. 

Staten Ishmd Ferry — (North Shore). — 
From pier 19, twelve cents. 

Hohoken Ferry. — From foot of Barclay 
Street to Hoboken, three cents. 

Peivonia Ferry. — From foot of Cham- 
bers Street to Jersey City (Erie Rail- 
way), three cents. 

Jersey City Ferry. — From foot of Des- 
brosses Street to Montgomery Street, Jer- 
sey City (N. J. R. R.) 

Christo2)her Street Ferry. — From Chris- 
topher Street to Hoboken, N. J., three 
cents. 

Weehawken Ferry. — ^From Forty-sec- 
ond Street to Weehawken, N. J., five 
cents. 

Eighty - fifth Street Ferry. — From 
Eighty-fifth Street to Bull's Ferry. 

EAST EIVEK. 

Staten Island Ferry. — ^From the Bat- 
tery to Staten Island, connecting with 
Staten Island Railroad, ten cents. 

Hamilton Avenue Ferry. — From White 
hall Street to Atlantic Dock, Brookl}Ti, 
two cents. 

South Ferry. — From foot of Whitehall 
Street to Atlantic Street, Brooklyn, two 
cents. 

Wall Street Ferry. — From foot of 
Wall Street to Montague Street, Brook 
lyn, two cents. 

Fulton Ferry. — ^From Fulton Street, 
New York, to Fulton Street, Brooklyn, 
two cents. 

Roosevelt Street Ferry. — From Roose- 
velt Street to South Seventh Street, 
Brooklyn, E. D. (Williamsburgh), three 
cents. 

'Hunter\ Point Ferry. — From James 
Slip to Hunter's Point, L. I., connecting 
with Long Island Railroad, eight cents. 

Bridge Street Ferry. — From foot of 
James Street to Bridge Street, Brooklyn, 
two cents. 

Catharine Street Ferry. — From Cath- 
arine Street to Main Street, Brooklyn, 
two cents. 



New York CiTr.J 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



Jackson Street Ferry. — From Jackson 
Street to Hudson Avenue, Brooklyn, 
three cents. 

Division Avenue Ferry. — From Grand 
(Street to South Seventh Street, Brook- 
llyn. E. D. (Williamsburgh), three cents. 

Grand Street Ferry. — From Grand 
Street, New York, to Grand Street, Brook- 
l3'n, E. D., (Williamsburgh), also to South 
Seventh Street, three cents. 

IIousto:i Street Ferry. — From Houston 
Street to Grand Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 
(Williamsburgh), three cents. 

Greenpoint Ferry. — From Tenth Street 
to Greenpoint, L. I., four cents. 

Tweniy-tliird Street Ferry. — From 
Twenty-third Street to Greenpoint, four 
! cents. 

Thirty-fourth Street Ferry. — From 
Thirty-fourth Street to Hunter's Point, 
four cents. 

Hellgate Ferry. — From Eighty-sixth 
Street to Astoria, L. I., four cents. 

As many visitors to New York desire 
to see the city without the expenditure 
of time necessary to visit the different 
objects of interest, we liavc tliought it 
best to mention in the Hand-book a few 
of the best points for observation. For 
those in the south or down-town quarter, 
the steeple of Trinity Church on Broad- 
way, head of Wall Street, will be found 
the most convenient. A view from this 
magnificent elevation will afford the vis- 
itor the best idea of the general extent 
and topography of the city. Ascent is 
';y winding stairs, with frequent landing- 
laces for rest. Admission at all hours 
f the day except during divine service. 

'le janitor is entitled to a fee of twenty- 

,e cents for each person. From the 

►^ )f of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, on Mad- 

•" Square, a fine though less extended 

*S<J^^ of the city and suburbs is had. By 

^^^^ .ng at the office of the hotel, per- 

6-'^^^ will be granted to make the as- 
ts^ the passenger elevator, or vertical 
ra •^'^.^used by the guests of the house, 
a p. e;^l:;e not to be hghtly esteemed in 
waru 'S'f ather, or indeed in any weather. 

Pla '^ OF Amusement, etc. — The 
Acadei\ of Music (Opera House), 
complete. ^ destroyed by fire, May 
21, 1866, .cupied an area of 24,000 
square feet, and had sittings for 4,500 
persons. The cost of ground and build- 



ing exceeded $300,000. It occupied a 
central and advantageous locality at the 
intersection of East Fourteenth Street and 
Irving Place, but from its immense size 
and the unfortunate auspices under which 
it was conducted it was pecuniarily un- 
successful. It is now in process of re- 
construction. The French Opera House 
is on West Fourteenth Street, near Sixth 
Avenue. 

Among the Dramatic institutions of 
the city, the best conducted and best 
worthy of patronage are Niblo''s, under 
the Metropolitan Hotel, Broadway ; 
Winter Garden — immediately adjoining 
the Southern (late La Farge) Hotel, 641 
Broadway ; and V/'allacJc's Theatre, at the 
corner of Broadway and Thirteenth Street. 
At Wallack^s, the old-school comedies are 
rendered in a style unequalled by any 
other theatre in the country. The Olym 
pic Theatre is in Broadway, between 
Bleecker and Houston Streets. Broad- 
luay TJieatre (formerly Wallack's), at 485 
Broadwaj', nearcorner of Broome Street; 
Wood's Theatre on Broadway, facing the 
St. Nicholas Hotel, are smaller temples 
of the Drama. The New Bowery TJieatre 
is in the Bowery, near Canal Street ; it 
has sittings for upward of 3,000 people. 
The Old Bowery Theatre, also near Canal 
Street, occupies a site upon which three 
theatres have been successively burnt 
and rebuilt. The performances here are 
spectacular and highly sensationaL The 
Stadt Tlieatre (German Opera) is also in 
the Bowery, nearly opposite the old 
Bowery theatre. BarnmrCs Museum.^ 
once one of the recognized " sights " and 
still the only first-class exhibition of its 
kind in the metropolis, is now located in 
the old Chinese Assembly Rooms, Nos. 
537-541, Broadway, above Spring, having 
been moved thither immediately after the 
fire of July 13, 1865, which destroyed 
the old Museum building, corner of 
Broadway and Ann ; a theatre and zo- 
ological collection form attractive and 
permanent features of this establishment. 
The Neio York Circus., East Fourteenth 
Street, opposite Irving Place. The hour 
of commencement at the most of these 
establishments is 8 o'clock ; seats at the 
opera and at the leading theatres can be 
engaged at the principal hotels. 

Baths, etc. — Besides the private hatha 
11 



New York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City, 



with one or more of wliicli the leading 
hotels and first-class boarding-housos are 
fitted, there is little to tempt the stranger 
in New York to enjoy that greatest of all 
luxuries — a bath. There are no swim- 
ming baths worthy the name, except such 
as Nature has lavishly provided on the 
bay and neighboring shores. For those 
fond of the Turkish and Russian vapor 
baths, the establishment known as the 
Turkish Bath Establishment, No. 13 
Laight Street, near Canal, and those con- 
ducted by Dr. Guttman, at 25 East Fourth 
Street, will be found the best. The for- 
mer establishment, under the proprietor- 
ship of Drs. Miller and Wood, is admi- 
rably arranged and conducted. It is 
pleasantly and centrally located near St. 
John's Park, easily reached from Broad- 
way and Canal Streets. Hours : gentle- 
men, 6 to 8 a. m. and 1 to 9 p. m. ; la- 
dies, 10 to 12 A. M. 

Telegraphs. — The principal Telegraph 
Companies whose head offices are located 
in New York, are the American, 145 
Broadway, with branch offices at all the 
principal railway dejDOts, hotels, etc. ; the 
United States, 117 Broadway; and the 
Western Wnioti, 145 Broadway. 

Parks, Sqctares, etc. — New York has 
fourteen public grounds known as parks 
or squares. Of these by far the largest 
,and most frequented is the Central Fark. 
This noble pleasa.nce is situated on the 
eastern slope of an elevated ridge, ex- 
tending along the western side of the 
island, in the upper part of the city, be- 
tween the Fifth and the Eighth Avenues, 
east and west, and Fifty-ninth and One 
Hundred and Tenth Streets, south and 
north. It embraces an area of 843 acres, 
extending two and a half miles in length 
by half a mile in breadth. (See accom- 
panying Map.) 

Thg ordinance creating the Commis- 
sioners of the Central Park was passed 
May 19, 1856, and the surveys were be- 
gun early in June following. The Park, 
as will be seen by reference to the ac- 
companying chart i^lan, is divided cross- 
wise into three sections of unequal ex- 
tent, known as the Lower, Central, and 
Upper Parks. 

The Lower Park contains an area of 
336 acres, and extends from Fifty-ninth 
to Seventy-ninth Streets. This was the 
12 



first improved portion of the grounds, 
and may very properly be regarded as the 
park proper. 

The Old and New Reservoirs occupy a 
considerable portion of the central divis- 
ion of the grounds. Above the i*eser- 
volrs, reaching to One Hundred and Tenth 
Street, is the section popularly known as 
the Upper Park. This, though little im- 
proved, has greater natural attractions 
than any other portion of the park, and 
will, in the course of a few years, be the 
most frequented. The whole cost of the 
park, including the purchase of the 
grounds, thus far, has been upwai'd of 
nine and a half miUions of dollars. The 
attendance has been large, and is steadily 
increasing. In 1862 upward of four 
millions of people visited it; in 1803, 
four and a half millions ; and in 1864, 
nearly six millions. The number of car- 
riages which entered the gates during the 
last year were 1,148,161. 

The best point at which to enter the 
park on foot is at Sixth Avenue and 
Fifty-ninth Street. The chief carriage 
entrance is at Fifth Avenue and Fifty- 
ninth Street ; but the stranger visiting 
Central Park will have no difficulty in 
reaching the park from almost any direc- 
tion. Gateways for the four entrances on 
Fifty-ninth Street are about to be erected, 
from designs by Hunt. The park is open 
every day in the year — dui-ing the winter 
and spring months from 6 to 9 o'clock, 
and in the skating season till midnight. 
During July, August, and September, from 
5 A. M. to 1 1 p. M. 

The Old and New Reservoirs constitute 
prominent features of the Park. The 
Ibrmer is 1,826 feet in length and 835 feet 
wide, and has a cr-pacity of 150,000,000 
gallons. The latter, constructed at the 
time of the Park, is a gigantic work, and 
considered in connection with the Croton 
Aqueduct and the admirable water system 
of New York, is worthy the attention of 
every stranger. The area of this vast basin 
is 106 acres, and its capacity over 1,000,- 
000,000 gallons. The nearest approach 
is by the gates at Ninetieth and Ninety- 
sixth streets, on the Fifth Avenue. The 
summit of the reservoir walls serve as a 
pleasant promenade, and command a fine 
view. The gate-houses are massive struc- 
tures of stone. The Lakes are among 



New York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



Ithe most attractive features of the Park ; 
they are five in number, and embrace an 
jarea of 43|- acres. The largest is a 
beautiful sheet of water, lying between 
Seventy-second and Seventy-ninth Streets. 
Pleasure-boats are kept for hire. Some 
fine specimens of native and imported 
swans are to be seen on the lake. In 
the skating season it is resorted to by 
thousands of both sexes. The Marble 
Arch is a fine structure near the lower 
end of the Park, and not far from the 
Mall. The Mall, a quarter of a mile in 
length, and covered with a beautiful 
growth of grass, furnishes a delightful 
promenade. At the upper extremity of 
the Mall is the Music PaMion. On band 
days (Wednesdays and Saturdays 3.30 to 
5 o'clock p. M.) the attendance in this part 
of the grounds is unusually large and 
brilliant. West of the Mall and between 
it and the Drive stand the oak and elm 
planted by the Prince of Wales in 1860. 

Descending from the Terrace which 
forms the upper part of the il/a/Z, and the 
plateau which it traverses, the visitor is 
conducted by a flight of stairs to the 
Lake. The Ramble, covering an area of 
36 acres of sloping hills, extends from 
the Old Reservoir to Central Lake. It 
abounds in pleasant shady walks, and is 
much frequented by Park visitors. The 
Stone Arch, on the western slope of the 
Ramble, is much admired. The Cave and 
the Tunnel are also objects of interest. 

The Museum is contained in a castel- 
lated structure formerly occupied as a 
State arsenal, near Fifth Avenue and 
Sixty-fourth Street. The art collection is 
small, but of much promise. Here, dur- 
ing the winter months, are housed the few 
animals which it is intended will form the 
nucleus of a future Zoological Garden. 
The Green, Play-ground, Dovecot, and 
the Knoll, are all frequented spots in the 
Park. The elevation of the last-named 
point is 13*7 feet above tide-water in the 
river. It is said to be the highest ground 
in the Park, and commands a fine view of 
it. The Refectory, in the Lower Park, 
near the Mall, is a pleasant place to so- 
journ awhile after a stroll or drive 
through the Park. If the keepers would 
improve their cuisine and keep better 
fare, they would render it still more pleas- 
ant. The Boulevard Drive, when finish- 



ed, will be one of the great features of 
Central Park. It will extend northward 
from the Park five miles to King's Bridge, 
on Spuyten Duyvel Creek. To those 
visiting the Park during the winter 
months, the road traversing the western 
side of the Middle Park, between Seventy- 
second and One Hundred and Second 
Streets, known as the Winter Drive, will 
be found very attractive. McGoivaji's 
Pass, the JBluff, the Arboretum, and 
Niirsery, are all reached at the upper or 
northern extremity of the ground. The 
grounds, as at present laid out, embrace 
10 miles of carriage road, 6 miles of 
finished bridle road, and upward of 30 
miles of gravel walk. 

The Battery, which contains 10 acres, 
is situated at the extreme south end 
of the city, at the commencement of 
Broadway, and is planted with trees and 
laid out in gravel walks. Prom this 
place is a delightful view of the har- 
bor and its islands, of the numerous 
vessels arriving and departing, of the ad- 
jacent shores of New Jersey, and of 
Staten and Long Islands. Castle Garden, 
on the Battery, was at one time a popular 
public hall. Here Jenny Lind first sang 
in America. Here, too, the fairs of the 
American Institute were once held. It 
is now used for the purposes of the Board 
of Emigration. 

The Boviling Green, so called from its 
use prior to the Revolution, is situated 
near the Battery, and at the commence- 
ment of Broadway. It is of an oval 
form., and surrounded by an iron railing. 
It is the oldest public ground in the 
city, having served as the Dutch parade- 
ground and market-place. It was en- 
closed in 1*732. 

The Park is a triangular enclosure in 
the lower part of the city. It has an 
area of 10 acres, and contains the City 
Hall and other brnldings. 

St. Johi's Park (Hudson Square) is a 
small but beautiful enclosure of four acres 
in Hudson Street, belonging to the vestry 
of Trinity Church. St. John's Church, a 
Chapel of Trinity, is on the east side of 
the square. 

Washingtoji Square (Parade-Ground) 

is a pleasant up-town park, a little west 

of Broadway, with the elegant private 

residences of Waverley Place and Fourth 

13 



New Y"ork City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



Street on the north and south sides, 
and upon the east the grand marble 
edifice of the New York University and 
Dr. Hutton's beautiful Gothic church. A 
fountain occupies the centre of these 
grounds, which embrace about nine 
acres. 

Union Park, a most charming bit of 
wood and lawn, is in Union Square, at 
the intersection of Fourth Avenue and 
Broadway, extending from Fourteenth to 
Seventeenth Streets. On the southeast 
corner of Union Square is the Union 
Place Hotel and the fine bronze equestrian 
statue of Washington, by Henry K. Brown. 
On the upper side is the Everett House, 
and, near by, the Clarendon Hotel. 
Upon the west is Dr. Cheever's " Church 
of the Puritans," the Spingler Hotel, and 
the Athenseum and City Club Houses. 

Gramercy Park, a little to the north- 
east of Union Square, is a charming 
ground, belonging to the owners of the 
elegant private homes around it. Lexing- 
ton Avenue and Irving Place are in the 
immediate vicinity. 

Stuyvesant Square is divided in the 
centre by the passage of the Second 
Avenue. It extends from Fifteenth to 
Seventeenth Streets. The Church of 
Saint George's (Rev. Dr. Tyng) is upon 
the west side of this park. The enclosure 
consists of three acres, and was presented 
by the late P. G. Stuyvesant to the 
church. 

Tompkins Square is between Avenues 
A and B, and Seventh and Tenth Streets ; 
it contains between 10 and 11 acres. 

Madison Square is six acres in extent, 
just above the intersection of Broadway 
and Fifth Avenue at Twenty-third Street. 
The Fifth Avenue Hotel, Hoifinan House, 
and many other fine hotels and private 
residences, face this square, which is much 
resorted to. On the west side, at ' the 
junction of Broadway and Twenty-fifth 
Street, stands a monument to General 
Worth. 

Hamilton Square, embracing 15 acres, 
is still higher up town, between Sixty- 
sixth and Sixty-ninth Streets, and Third 
and Fourth Avenues. 

Besides those enumerated are Bloom- 

ingdale Square, Observatory Place, and 

Mount Morris. Manhattan Square is a 

fine enclosure of 19 acres, adjoining 

14 



Central Park on the west. It has been 
incorporated with that ground. 

Public Buildings. — The City Hall is 
an imposing edifice; the south front, 216 
feet in length, is built of marble, and the 
rear, or north side, of Nyack freestone. 
It was constructed between the years 
1803 and 1812, the foundation having 
been laid September 2.5, 1803. It occu- 
pies the centre of the Park, the site of 
the first Poor-House erected in New York, 
in the lower part of the city, and is sur- 
rounded by other city offices. TLd ar- 
chitects were Macomb & Mangin. In 
this building are twenty-eight offices and 
other public apartments, the principal of 
which is the Governor''s Room, appropri- 
ated to the use of that functionary on his 
visiting the city, and occasionally to that 
of other distinguished individuals. The 
walls of this room are embeUished with a 
fine collection of portraits of men cele- 
brated in the civil, military, or naval his- 
tory of the country, embracing 17 of the 
governors, 26 mayors. Presidents Wash- 
ington, Monroe, Taylor, and Fillmore. 
In the Common Council Boom is the 
identical chair occupied by Washington 
when President of the first American 
Congress, which assembled in this city. 

The County Court House occupies a 
conspicuous IccoJe on the City Park, 
facing Chambers Street, and contiguous 
to the City Hall. The building, which 
was commenced September 16, 1861, 
is wholly of white marble, in the Italian 
style of architecture. It is rectangular 
in form, 250 feet long, 150 feet wide, 
and three stories high. The entire street 
frontage is 1,040 feet. The main building 
will be surmounted by a dome 128 feet 
high. The total height of the structure 
from street to top of dome will be 210 
feet. Upward of §2,250,000 have already 
been expended in the purchase of the 
ground and the erection of the edifice, and 
$1,000,000 more will be required to finish 
it. The Custom Hoxhse (formerly the Mer- 
chants' Exchange) is on Wall Street, 
corner of William. It is built of Quiucy 
granite, and is fire-proof, no wood having 
been used in its construction, except for 
the doors and window-frames. It is 
erected on the site occupied by the Ex- 
change building destroyed by the great 
fire of 1835. The present one, however, 



York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



^ers the entire block, and is 200 feet 
:g by 111 to 144 wide, and 124 to the 
>e of the dome. Its portico, resting on 

massive Ionic columns, has a fine ef- 

t. The entire cost of the building, in- 
iding the ground, was over $1,800,000. 
jThe IT. S. Treasury (once the Custom 

use) is on Wall and Nassau Streets, 

site occupied by Old Federal HalL 

jis built of white marble, in the Doric 

er, similar in model to the Parthenon 
Athens. It is 200 feet long, 90 wide, 
d 80 high. The great hall for the 
msaction of business is a circular room, 

feet in diameter, surmounted by a 
jme, supported by 16 Corinthian col- 
ms 30 feet high, and having a skylight, 
rough which the hall is lighted. The 
st of the building, including the ground, 
IS $1,195,000. 

The Post-Office is in Nassau Street, be- 
'een Cedar and Liberty Streets. The 
lilding is noteworthy only as a relic of 
e past, having been formerly used as a 

Iurch by one of the old Du'',ch congrega- 
)ns, and known as the " Middle Dutch 
lurch." In the old wooden steeple of 
is building Franklin practised his ex- 
riments in electricity. It sustained great 
Ijuries during the British occupation of 
e city, but was fitted for public worship 
1790. It was first used as U. S. Post- 
ce, February 17, 1844. A site for a 
w Post-Ofiice building has just been: 
lected at the south end of the Park, 
The Hall of Justice., or " Tombs" is 
cated in Centre Street, between Leonard 
lid Franklin Streets. It is a substantial 
iokiiig building, in the Egyptian style of 
^chitecture, 253 feet long and 200 wide, 
)ustructed of a light-colored granite, 
he city prison has 150 cells. The court 
I sessions, police, and other courts, are 
eld here. Admission granted on appli- 
itiou to the keeper. 

The Old Ciii/ Armory or Arsenal is at 
le junction of Elm and White Streets, 
i is of blue-stone, in the Gothic style, 
he new arsenal is at the corner of Thirty- 
fth Street and Seventh Avenue. 

LlIERAEY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, 

ic. , ETC. — The educational system of the 
ity is under the control of a Board of 
Iducation (ofiice, 140 Grand Street, cor. 
11m), composed of 21 Commissioners 
f Common Schools, elected for terms 



of three years. There are 257 schools 
in the city, 89 of which are primary, and 
15 for colored children. The aggregate 
attendance (1865) was 189,814. 

Columbia College, on 50th Street near 
Fifth Avenue, is an ancient establishment, 
having been chartered by George II. in 
1754, under the title of King's College. 
Until within a few years back it occupied 
a site in Park Place. The green lawns 
adjoining its old site have long since 
been built over. The college has a pres- 
ident and 12 professors, a library of 
20,000 volumes, and a museum. 

The JSTew York University occupies a 
grand Gothic edifice of white marble, upon 
the east side of Washington Square, 
Wooster Street, corner Waverley Place. 
This structure is a fine example of pointed 
architecture, not unlike that of King's Col- 
lege, Cambridge, England. The chapel 
—in the central building — is, with its 
noble window, 50 feet high and 24 feet 
wide, one of the most beautiful rooms in 
the country. The whole edifice is 200 
feet in length and 100 feet deep. It was 
founded in 1831. A valuable library 
and philosophical apparatus is attached 
to the University. 

The Cooper Institute ( Union) occupies 
a magnificent brown-stone edifice oppo- 
site the Bible House on Astor Place, at 
the point where the union of the Third and 
Fourth avenues forms the Bowery. Its 
main front, 143 feet long, is on Eighth 
Street. It was founded by the generous 
munificence of Peter Cooper, an eminent 
merchant of New York. The building 
cost about $600,000. It is devoted to 
the free education of tiie people in the 
practical arts and sciences. It was pub- 
licly opened in November, 1859, with 
over 2,000 students. It contains a free 
reading-room and library. One of its 
departments is a School of Design for 
women. The basement is devoted to 
the purposes of a lecture-room. The Fr-ce 
Academy [New York College), at the inter- 
section of Lexington Avenue and Twenty- 
third Street, is an imposing and highly 
ornamental structure, erected in 1848. 
This is a public collegiate academy of 
the highest rank. Its students are chosen 
from the pupils of the public schools only. 
It will accommodate 1,000 pupils. The 
cost of the building, grounds, and furni- 
15 



Nkw York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City 



ture was $152,000. Lyceum of Natural 
Hislori/, 561 Broadway. The General 
Theological Seminar]/ of the Protestant 
Episcopal Church is pleasantly situated on 
West Twentieth Street,between Ninth and 
Tenth Avenues. The Union Theological 
Seminary, founded in 1836, is at 9 Univer- 
sity Place, just above the New York Uni- 
versity. Tlie Nevj York Historical Socie- 
ty, established in 1809, occupies an edi- 
fice of yellow sandstone on Second Ave- 
nue, corner of Eleventh Street. Its library 
and art collection are large and valuable. 
The Amei'iccm Geoffraphiccd and Stalis- 
iical Society has rooms in Clinton Hall, 
Astor Place. The JVew York Law Insti- 
tute is in the City Hall. College of St. 
Francis Xaviev, on Fifteenth Streei be- 
tween Fifth and Sixth Avenues, was found- 
ed in 1850. It has a library of 15,000 
volumes. 

Libraries. — New York possesses up- 
ward of tv/enty public libraries. The first, 
or " Public Library," was commenced in 
1700. (See Society Library.) The fol- 
lowing are those best worth visiting : 

The Astor Library, on Lafayette Place 
near Astor Place, was founded by John 
Jacob Astor, who endowed it with the sum 
of $400,000. The building, erected in 
1853, 65 feet by 120, was enlarged in ISoY 
by the addition of another building corre- 
sponding in size to the original. It is 
of brick, ornamented with brown-stone 
in the Romanesque style, and cost fYO- 
000. The Library Hall is 50 feet high, 
and approached by a flight of 38 marble 
steps. The eollection of books numbers 
135,000, and constitutes one of the 
largest and most valuable public libraries 
on the continent. Open daily (except 
Sundays and holidays), from 9 to 5 
o'clock. 

The Mercantile Library, Clinton Hall, 
Eighth Street near Broadway, and in 
the immediate vicinity 'of the Cooper 
Institute, the Astor Library, and Bible 
House. It was founded in 1820, and 
was first opened at 49 Fulton Street, 
Febi'uary, 1821. The collection then 
numbered 700 volumes, which was in- 
creased in 1826 to 3,000. The first cata- 
logue was printed in 182]., The library 
was moved to its present cjuarters June 
8, 1854. Its collection now numbers 
86, Quo volumes, in everv department of 
16 



letters. It has 1 2,000 members. It ha 
also a lecture and reading room, an( 
cabinets of minerals. The winter cours' 
of lectures before the Mercantile Librar; 
Association are among the greatest at 
tractions of the season. . Reading-rooi 
o\)QXi IVom 8 A. sr. to 10 p. m. 

New York Society Library, No. 67 I^n; 
versity Place, contains the oldest and un 
of the most valuable collections of book 
in the city. The " Public Library," com 
menced 1700, during the provincial gov 
ernorship of the Earl of Bellamont, forme( 
the nucleus ofthe present library. In 172 
it was largely increased by a bequest frou 
Dr. Millington, of Newington, England 
In 1754, and for some time after, it wai 
known as the " City Library." The titli 
of New York Society Library was give: 
to it (1772) under charter from Kinj 
George HI. It suffered severely durin 
the Revolution — so severely, that at th' 
publication of the first printed catalogue 
(1793) it contained but 5,000 volumes, aj 
which time it occupied a room in th 
City Hall. In 1795 it was removed to 
building, then new, but since removed 
facing the Middle Dutch Church (no 
occupied as the Post-Oflice) in Nassa 
Street, where it remained till 1836, whe 
it was again moved to the rooms of thi 
Mechanics' Society, in Chambers Street, 
In 1825 the library numbered 16,00' 
vols. In 1838 the New York Atheiiceu 
was merged in the Society Library, aii' 
the whole was removed (1840) to a build 
ing just erected, at a cost of $74,000, a1 
the corner of Broadway and Leonar 
Street. It 1853 the Broadway propert 
was sold, and the library moved to th' 
Bible House, where it remained untl 
1856, when it was again removed to it 
present building. The library now con- 
tains nearly 55,000 vols. It lias commo- 
dious reading-rooms. Strangers intro- 
duced by members have the privilege; 
of the library and reading-rooms for on 
month. Open from 8 A. M. to 6 r. m. 
reading room till 10 p. m. 

New York Historiccd Library, Secon 
Avenue corner East Eleventh Street, h; 
30,000 volumes, and a collection of an tiqui 
ties, coins, medals, etc. Open from 9 a, 
to 6 p. M. during the summer months, an^ 
9 A. M. to 9 P. M. during the winter. A 
prentices' Library, in the Mechanics' Hall 



New York City.] 



•NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



|4'72 Broadway, near Grand Street, has 18,- 
000 volumes. Open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
The Ajjierican Institute Library, incorpo- 
rated 1829, occupies rooms 21 to 23, on the 
first floor of the Cooper Institute. The 
collection numbers 10,000 volumes. The 
arinual exhibitions of mechanic art and 
industry, of this Society, make a feature 
in the autumn entertainments of the 
metropolis. Open daily, 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
Ciiy Library, room 12 City Hall, has 5,000 
volumes. Open daily from 10 a. m. to 
4 p. M. Law Institute Library, 41 Cham- 
bers Street, open daily. Young Men's 
Christian Association, 161 6th Avenue 
and '76 Varick Street. Open daily from 
8 A. M. to 10 p. M. The General Theo- 
logical Seminary has a library of 18,000 
volumes. The Union Theological Semi- 
nary Library, 9 University Place, num- 
bers 26,000 volumes. 

Art Societies and Galleries. — The 
National Academy of Design — the chief 
art institution of America — -was founded 
in 1826, since which time it has steadily 
advanced in influence and usefulness. It 
occupies a prominent locale at the cor- 
ner of Fourth Avenue and Twenty-third 
Street, fronting on the latter. The front 
is constructed of Westchester County 
marble, banded with greywacke ; is in 
the Gothic style of architecture of the 
thirteenth century, and presents a unique 
and pleasing appearance. The main 
gates and external ornamental iron-work 
are generally admired. No paint is used 
on the woodwork of the building. The 
grand stairway leading to the art galler- 
ies is of solid oak, trimmed with walnut. 
Besides the central hall, picture galleries, 
and sculpture-room, which are in the third 
story, it contains lecture, reading, li- 
brary, and council-rooms. It was erected 
in 1863, under the superintendence of 
1\ B. Wright, architect, and cost 
$150,000. It numbers among its academi- 
cians and associates nearly all of the 
e.min-ent artists of the city and vicinity. 
Annual exhibitions of the Academy are 
held in April, May, Jui>e, and July, clos- 
ing on the 4th of that month. Admis- 
sion, twenty-five cents. The stranger in 
New York should not omit attending 
these exhibitions. 

The Artists' Fund Society, founded in 
1859, makes an annual exhibition and ( 



sale of works of art, in the months of 
November and December, in the Academy 
building. 

Art Studios. — At No. 51 Tenth 
Street, near the Sixth Avenue, there is a 
spacious quadrangular edifice, called the 
Artists' Studio Building, occupied entire- 
ly by artists. A fine gallery, for the 
uses of the fraternity, fills the court. 
Dodworih's, 212 Fifth Avenue, Madison 
Square, is another famous resort of the 
knights of the easel, and so too is the 
University in Washing-ton Park. 

Free Galleries for the exhibition and 
sale of woi'ks of Art, are at Schaus', No. 
749 Broadway ; Goupil's, Broadway and 
I^inth Street; "Williams', 358 Broadway; 
Snedecor's, 768 Broadway. Bendann's 
photographic art gallery is on Fifth Av- 
enue, corner of Seventeenth Street. 

Mokuments, Fountains, etc. — Of these, 
which form one of the most interesting 
and' characteristic features of most of 
the great cities of Europe, New York 
has scarcely one worthy the name. The 
equestrian statue of Washington in 
Union Square, near the intersection of 
Fourteenth Street with Broadway, is a 
fine work, much admired for its propor- 
tions and execution. The Worth Momc- 
me^it is on Madison Square, in the viciu- 
ity of the Hoffman House and Fifth 
Avenue Hotel. ' The Martyrs' Monument 
is in Trinity churchyard. The fountains 
in the Central Park are the largest and 
most admired. 

Chajsitable Institutions. — Among the 
most notev^orthy charities of the metrop- 
olis are the following, viz. : The New 
York Hospital, 319 Broadway, between 
Duane and Worth Streets. It was found- 
ed in 1771 by the Earl of Dunmore, then 
governor of the colony. The approach 
from Broadway, facing Pearl Street, is by 
an avenue ninety feet wide, through a 
pretty lawn. The main building is of 
gray stone, 124 feet long by 50 feet deep. 
Connected with this hospital was for- 
merly a Marine department, rebuilt in 
1834, and considered one of the best ar- 
ranged institutions of its kind in the 
country. This building is now occupied 
by the University Medical School, On 
the walls of the Governor's room in the 
main building immediately facing the 
entrance are portraits in oil of the sev- 
17 



New Youk City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Nkw York City. 



eral governors and leading medical men 
connected with the hospital. 

The Citi) Fmilodiary, tho LunaiicAst/- 
lum, ihe Alms House, Hospital, and Work 
House, on Blaekwell's Island, in the East 
River, are wortli the special attention of 
the stranger. This island, as also Ward's 
and Randall's Islands, may be reached by 
steamboat from foot of Grand Street, 
East River, at 12 m. daily; or by the 
Harlem cars to Sixty-first Street. The 
Work House is one of the most complete 
edifices of its kind in the country. It is 
325 feet in length, has accommodation 
for 600 inmates, and cost ,$100,000. 
Also, Warcfs and RandaWs Islands, near 
by, are occupied by public charitable in- 
stitutions. The elegant and massive 
structures which cover this famous group 
of islands make a striking feature in the 
landscape in sailing up the East River to 
the suburban villages on Long Island, 
en route for Newport or Boston. In the 
several institutions on Blackwell's, 
Ward's, and Randall's Islands, from five 
to sis thousand persons arc usually main- 
tained. The House of Refuge, on Ran- 
dall's Island, should be visited. It is one 
of the most extensive establishments of 
the kind in the world. The boys' de- 
partment is 600 feet in length, and the 
girls' 250 feet. Permits granted every 
week-day. 

The Institution for the Mind occupies a 
large and imposing Gothic edifice of gran- 
ite, on Ninth Avenue, between Thirty- 
third and Thirty-fourth Streets. It i.i 175 
feet long, and three stories high. Visitors 
received on Wednesdays from 9 a. m. to 
5 p. M. 

The Deaf a7id Dumb Asylum occupies 
a conspicuous locale at Eanwood, West 
One Hundred and Sixty-second Street, 
near Bloomingdale Road (Washington 
Heights). It is reached by the cars of the 
Harlem Railroad. Incorporated 181*7, 
opened in the N. Y. Institution (old Alms 
House), in the Park, 1818, moved to new 
building Fifth Street, 1828. The principal 
building, 110 by 60 feet, and five stories 
high, has accommodation for between 
200 and 300 pupils. Admission daily 
from 12 to 4 o'clock, p. m. 

The JV^eia York Juvenile Asylum, One 
Hundred and Seventy-fifth Street, near 
Tenth Avenue and High Bridge, is a noble 
18 



chanty. The office of the Superintendent ! 
is at the House of Reception, 71 West 
Thirteenth Street. 

The Bloomingdale Asylum for the In- 
sane {Lunatic Asylum), and the New 
York Orphan Asylum, are in the uppei 
part of the island, on the line of one of 
the pleasantest drives about New York. 
The former of these charities is a branch 
of the New York Hospital, already men- 
tioned. It occupies a most attractive 
and commanding site on West One Hun- 
dred and Seventeenth Street, near' Tenth 
Avenue. The principal building is 211 
feet in length, and four stories high. 
The Orphan Asylum, on Bloomingdale 
Road, near Seventy-fourth Street, is 120 
feet long by 60, and has nine acres of 
ground attached, commanding a fine view 
of the river on either side. It was in- 
corporated in 1807 ; the present edifice 
was completed in 1840. 

Bellevue HospAtal, at the foot of East 
Twenty-seventh Street, is a noble charity 
finished in 1812, The admissions during 
the year 1864 numbered nearly 8,000. 
The city Alms House which preceded 
Bellevue Hospital, erected 1695, stood on 
the north side of the Park, facing Church 
Street. 

St. Luke's Hospital is at the corner of 
Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fourth Street. 

The Home of Industry, 155 and 159 
Worth Street, near Centre and Pearl 
Streets, popularly known as the Five 
Points House of Industry, from its loca- 
tion at the intersection of five streets or 
lanes, stands near the spot once occupied 
by the " Old Brewery," supposed to have 
been built near the corner of Broadway 
and Duane Street, prior to the Revolu- 
tion. The locality has long been identi- 
fied as the abode of squalid poverty and 
cnme in, New York, and the "Home" is 
interesting to humanitarians as a jjroof of 
what can be done for this unfortunate class 
of population. It was founded in 1848, cost 
.$80,500, and contains over 300 inmates. 
The expenses of the Home are defrayed 
by the labor of its inmates. 

Dispensaries. — Closely connected with 
the foregoing charities are the .Dispen- 
saries, which number eleven. The fol- 
lowing are the most prominent : 

Northern, iomi&eA 1829, corner of Wa- 
verly Place and Christopher Street. 



w York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York: City. 



ISforihwestern, No. 511 Eighth Avenue. 
New Yorh, Centre, cornei" White Street. 
lis is the oldest institution of its kind 
the city. Established 1*795. 
Demilt, No. 401 Second Avenue, was 
orporated March, 1851. 
'^ffsfeni, founded June 16, 1834, No. 
Essex Street, corner Grand. 
Northeastern, incorporated February 
1861, southeast corner Lexington 
enue and Fifty-first Street. 
Medical Institutions. — The medical 
ftitutions of New Yorlc number fifteen, 
luding five colleges and two academies, 

of wliich are centrally located and 
en to tlie public without fee. One of 

most noteworthy — 
The Universiti/ Medical College, was 
btroyed by fire. May 21, 1866, together 
jtli its valuable library and anatomical 
[lection, and has not yet been rebuilt, 
is temporarily located in the north 
ilding of the New York Hospital, 
mer of Broadway and Worth Streets. 
College of Physicians and Surgeons, 
rtheast corner Fourth Avenue and 
renty-third Street, founded in 1807, has 
ibrary and anatomical museum. 
New York Medical College, 90 East 
irteenth Street, was chartered in 1850, 
d is devoted to the instruction of young 
ictitioners. It has an anatomical mu- 
im, laboratory, etc. The College of 
larmacy is located in the same build- 

T_ 

Bellevue Hospital Ifedical College is 
East Twenty-sixth Street, near First 
renue. 

Homoeopathic Medical College, 116 East 
venty-eighth Street. 

The New York Academy of Medicine 
3ets the first Wednesday of each month 
the University building. 
OCheological Institutions and Chuech- 
— New York contains 812 church 
ifices, many of them noteworthy for 
eir extent and beauty of design, but 
iv possessing much historical interest. 
il the old church buildings have been 
:ng since pulled down to make room for 
!e demands of commerce and trade. 
Trinity Church, facing Vfall Street, on 
oadway, will first attract the stranger's 
tention. An entire forenoon might be 
ofitably spent in and around Trinity, 
was founded in 1696, enlarged in IVSV,' 



its dimensions then being 148 by 72, 
with a steeple 178 feet high. The pres- 
ent edifice is the third built on the spot, 
the first having been destroyed in the 
great fire of September 21,1776. It was 
commenced in 1839, and completed in 
1846, from designs by Upjohn. Its 
dimensions are 192 feet by 80 feet, 
and 60 feet high. The steeple is 284 
feet high, and has a fine chime of bells 
and clock. From this steeple the finest 
panoramic view of the city, suburban 
towns, and bay is obtained. An elabo- 
rate silver service, presented to the cor- 
poration of Trinity by Queen Anne of 
England, is among the objects worthy of 
notice. In the graveyard adjoining the 
church are the tombs of Alexander Hamil- 
ton and of Commodore Lawrence, who was 
killed in the action between the Chesa- 
peake and Shannon, June 1, 1813. The 
monument to the Sugar-House martyrs, 
adjoining Trinity Buildings, is worthy of 
notice. No interments have been made 
in Trinity yard since 1822. This grave- 
yard formed part of the " church farm " 
originally set apart by the Dutch West 
India Company " for the use of their offi- 
cers and the fort garrison." It was after- 
ward known as the " King's Farm," and 
was granted to the corporation of Trinity 
(1705) by Lord Cornbury, then British 
governor. Its fee has served to make 
Trinity Church the richest ecclesiastical 
corporation in the United States, and is 
now the source of an immense yearly 
revenue. 

Grace Church, on Broadway, near 
Tenth Street, from its striking situation 
and architectural display, usually divides 
with Trinity the first attention of the 
visitor. Externally it is, perhaps, the 
most ornate specimen of ecclesiastical 
architecture in the city. It was built by 
Renwick (1845), and cost $145,000. The 
effect of the stained-glass windows, of 
which there are forty, viewed from the 
inside in a bright sunlight, is very fine. 

St. Paul's Church, the third Episcopal 
church erected in the city (1766), stands 
on Broadway, immediately below the 
Astor House, and facing the " Herald " 
bmlding, which now occupies the corner 
of Ann Street and Broadway, recently 
the site of Barnum's Museum. It is 151 
feet long, 78 feet wide, and has a steeple 
19 



New York City.] 



NEW YOKK. 



[New York Citj 



of 203 feet. On a white marble slab, in 
the front of tlie church, is an inscription 
to the memory of General Montgomery, 
who fell at Quebec, December 31, 1775, 
and whose remains were removed hither 
July 8, 1S13. Over this slab is a monu- 
ment erected to his memory by order of 
Congress, January 23, 1776. South of the 
church, fiicing Broadway, is a monument 
to Emmet the Irish patriot, who died in 
New York, 1827. 

St. Fai7-ick's Cathedral, now in course 
of construction on Fifth Avenue and 
Fiftieth Street, is worthy a visit from 
those interested in church architecture. 
When finished, it will be the largest and 
one of the most costly church edifices in 
the United States. Service was performed 
until recently in the Cathedral erected in 
1815 at the corner of Prince and Mott 
Streets. 

St. George's Church occupies a con- 
spicuous site on Stuyvesant Square, in 
East Sixteenth Street. It is one of the 
most spacious and imposing church edi- 
fices of the city. It is in the Byzantine 
style, 170 feet long and 94 feet v/ide. It 
was erected in 1849, and cost $250,000 ; 
the ground being donated by the late 
Feter G. Stuyvesant. It was burned 
November 14, 1865, the whole interior 
portion of the building being completely 
destroyed. Damage estimated at $200,- 
000. It has been fully restored, and is 
again open for public worship. 

Trinity JOhape'' on Twenty-fifth Street, 
west of Broadway, is an elegant edifice, 
erected by the corporation of Trinity 
Church at a cost of $260,000. It is 180 
fett long, and richly ornamented. Many 
novel features in church architecture and 
appointment are noticeable. 

Besides these, the following will repay 
a visit if the stranger have time: St. 
JoIm's (Episcopal), in St. John's Park ; 
Church of the Puritans, Union Square; 
St. /*a?<Z's (Methodist), Fourth Avenue and 
East Twenty-second Street; Dutch Jic- 
formed{Dv. Hutton), Washington Square ; 
St. Clark's (Episcopal), Dr. Vinton, Stuy- 
vesant Street, near Second Avenue ; First 
Baptist, corner of Broome and Elizabeth 
Streets ; Amity Street (Baptist), Dr. 
Williams, 161 Fifth Avenue; Madison 
Avenue (Baptist), Henry G. Weston ; Six- 
teenth Street, Baptist, 257 West Six- 
20 



teenth Street, near Eighth Avenue, R^ 
W. S. Mikels; Church of the Divi. 
Unity (Universalist) ; Church of 
Souls (Unitarian), Dr. Bellows, Four 
Avenue, corner of Twentieth Streetj 
Church of the Holy Communion (Episo 
pal). Dr. Muhleuburg, Sixth Avenue a; 
Twentieth Street ; Fifth Avenue Fresi 
tcrian Church, Dr. N. L. Eice, corner ol 
Nineteenth Street ; French Church, Eylii 
du St. Fsprlt (Protestant Episcopal), Di 
Verren, Twenty-second Sti'eet, betweci 
Fifth and Sixth Avenues ; Church of th 
Annunciation (Episcopal), Dr. Seaburj 
110 West Fourteenth Street, betweei 
Sixth and Seventh Avenues ; Church oj 
the Ascension (Episcopal), J. 0. Smitl 
Fifth Avenue, corner of Tenth Street 
Shaarai Tephila (Gates of Prayer), Hi 
brew, 1306 Broadway. 

The Bihle House is a conspicuous ed 
fice occupying the space bounded b 
Third and Fourth Avenues, and Eight 
and Ninth Streets. It has a street front 
age of 700 feet, and is six stoi'ies high 
The principal entrance, on Fourth Avenue 
has four columns, surmounted by a coi 
nice. It is built of brick, and cost $300; 
000. It is the i^roperty of the Americai 
Bible Society, and here all the operation 
of that important organization are carric( 
on. Upward of 500 operatives are em 
ployed. 

Cemeteeie s. — The public burying 
grounds in the city and suburbs of Ne? 
York number thirteen. Of these thi 
cemeteries of Greenwood, Woodlawn, am 
Cypress Hills, are best worth the strai 
ger's attention. (See Greenwood.) 

Markets. — The market-places of Ne' 
York have little to commend them eithc 
to stranger or citizen. They are gener- 
ally dirty and ill kept, affording a marked 
contrast to similar structures in Phila 
delphia, New Orleans, and other citiea 
The first market-house of which we havj 
any authentic record was built in 1738 
and stood in the centre of Broadway, op 
posite Liberty, then Crown Street. I 
was 156 feet long and 23 feet 34- inchei 
in width. It stood thirty-three years 
and being indicted as a public nuisance 
was demolished in 1771. The seconi 
market buildmg, ei-ected at the southeas 
corner of Broadway and Maiden Lan 
[Ifaagde Paatge of the Dutch), was di 



t(r 



1 W York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



)yed by the great fire in 1'7'76. The 
ii-kets now held are eleven in number, 
i are under the charge of an officer 
)wn as the Superintendent of Markets. 
Fulton Market is the most frequented 
I best known. It is on Front Street, 
ing the East River, and bounded by 
kman and Fulton Streets. It was 
icted in 1821, and cost §220,000, a large 
\a in those days. At certain hours of 
I day this market presents a character- 
:c phase of New York life. 
\WasMnffton Market, at the foot of 
sey and Washington Streets, nearly 
j'allel with Fulton Market, on the oppo- 
3 or west side of the city, is another 
the old city markets. 
Centre Market, extending through 
atre Street from Grand to Broome 
eets, is a more recent and better plan- 

II structure than those mentioned. It 
a substantial brick building of two 
ries, the upper floors being used as 
jnories and drill-rooms by various mili- 
ly companies. 

yefferson Market, at the intersection of 
Ktii Avenue and Greenwich Avenue, and 
VTompkins Market, on Third Avenue, 
uth of the Cooper Institute, are smaller 
[t more recent structures. 
Banks, etc. — There are 93 banks in 
w York, divided as follows : National 
inks, 58 ; State Banks, 12 ; and Savings 
inks, 23. Of bankers, private banking 
luses, and money brokers, there are 
(ward of 300. Many of the banks 
(e conspicuous for their architectural 
|feet, elegance rather than solidity being 
Kight for in their construction. The 
st specimens of bankins-liouse archi- 
ctiire will be found in Wall Street, 
ough in the constant up-town movement 
bing- on, many will be found in Broad- 
lay, Nassau Street, and the Bowery, 
i The American Exchange Bank is a fine 
Uilding of Caen stone, at the corner of 
roa,dway and Liberty Street. The Bank 
"^ tiie Republic is an imposing edifice of 
I'own-stone at the corner of Wall and 
roadway. It cost $1*75,000. The Me- 
(ipolitan, also of brown-stone, is at the 
itersection of Pine Street with Broad- 
ay. In Wall Street, the Bank of JVeio 
^ork, corner of William Street, and Bank 
■f America, No. 46, are prominent struc- 
ires. On the site of the Bank of New 



York once stood a statue of William 
Pitt. The Bank of Commerce, in Nassau 
Street, facing the Post-Office building, is 
one of the most substantial banking 
houses in the city. 

Among the private banking houses 
those of Alessrs. Brown Brothers, No. 59 
Wall Street, and those of Messrs. Duncan, 
Sherman & Co., and Jay Cooke & Co., in 
Nassau Street, between Pine and Wall 
Streets, are the most noteworthy. The 
bank Clearing House is at 48 Wall Street, 
and the Gold Exchange at 14 Broad. 
The new marble building lately erected 
on Broad Street, south of Wall Street, 
adjoining the Gold Exchange, and known 
as the New York Stock Exchange, presents 
a characteristic feature of metropolitan 
life. In the upper part of this building 
are located the Brokers Board and Pe- 
troleum Board Rooms, etc. 

Newspaper Offices, etc. — The leading 
daily newspapers of New York are pub- 
lished and issued from establishments 
which have no i-ivals for extent or com- 
pleteness of detail on this continent, or, 
indeed, in the world. The office of The 
Times, in Printing House Square, occupies 
the site of Dr. Spring's old Brick Church, 
at the end of Park Row, corner of Nassau 
Street, and facing the City Hall. It was 
first occuj)ied May 1, 1858. It is a fine 
structure, of Nova Scotia stone, five stories 
high, and entirely fire-proof. The vaults 
underneath this building, where the daily 
and weekly issues of the Times are print- 
ed, are vi^ell worthy a visit. 

The Herald establishment now occu- 
pies the magnificent new marble building 
just erected on the site of Barnum's Mu- 
seum, destroyed by fire July 13, 1865. 
This site, now one of the most valuable 
in the city, formed, less than one hundred 
years ago, part of " Shoemakers' Pasture," 
for many years known, far and wide, as 
"Spring Garden." Mr. Elkin's public 
house, known in ante-revolutionary times 
as "Hampden Hall," and used as head- 
quarters by "the Sons of Liberty," stood 
on the precise spot where the Museum 
afterward floirrislacd. 

The Tribune, World, Mercury, Bound 
Table, Nation, News, Express, and other 
daily and weelily papers are in the imme- 
diate vicinity of these offices. Strangers 
who would carry away with them a cor- 
21 



New Yokk City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Nkw York Cit^ 



rcct impression of the commercial^ politi- 
cal, and social influences of New Yoi-k, as 
a measure of the national iJiogrcsa and 
growth, should not fail to visit one or 
more of these establishments. 

LANDMARKS OF THE PAST. 

Among the few historical localities and 
objects of interest which the rapid growth 
of New York, and the constant change 
incident to war, increase in population 
and trade, have left for the contemplation 
of the citizen and stranger, the following 
will be found best worthy attention. 

Broadway, as the representative street 
and leading thoroughfare of the past, as 
well as of the present citj^, furnishes the 
best field for observation, and the Battery 
the best point from which to start on our 
antiquarian tour. 

Bowling Green in the times of the 
Dutch was the court end of the town ; 
that part of Broadway then called the 
"Heere Straas" in contradistinction to 
the Heere Wegh, vrhich was the name 
of the highway beyond the walls, was al- 
ready a popular part of New Amsterdam, 
and no doubt presented the most pleasing 
features of the town. On the opposite or 
east side the street for a short distance, 
measured by its present length, seems to 
have been inhabited by the humbler and 
poorest classes, being mainly composed 
of hovels and small shanties. In front 
(south) of the Green, was the Parade, 
which also served as the market-place. 
The Bowling Green was first enclosed in 
1'732. The row of six buildings facing 
the Green on the south, and extending 
from State to Whitehall Streets, cover the 
site of the old Dutch and English forts. 
The old Government House, which served 
as the Custom House subsequent to 1*790, 
stood here until 1815, when it was taken 
down to make room for the present build- 
ings, which at that date were considered 
the finest private residences in the city. 
The Kennedy House, No. 1 Broadway, 
named after the Hon. Archibald Kennedy, 
then collector of the port, afterward Earl 
of Caselis of the Scotch peerage, who 
built it in 1*760, is one of the most inter- 
esting relics now left standing. It occu- 
pies the site of the " Kocks Tavern," built 
by Peter Kocks, an officer in the Dutch 
service and an active leader in the Indian 
22 



war of 1643. In colonial times it wi 
the heart of the highest fashion in tl 
colony, having Vjcen successively the rei 
dence and headquarters of Lords Co; 
wallis and Howe, Gen. (Sir Henry) Clintoi 
and Gen. Washington. Arnold occupie 
No. 5 Broadway, the site now (1866) 0( 
cupied by Messrs. Livingston and othei 
for offices, and in Clinton's headquartei 
his treasonable projects were concertei 
Pulton died in a room in the prese 
Washington Hotel, then No. 1 Marke 
field Street. It was then (1815) used a 
a boarding-house, and was kept by a Mn 
Avery. Talleyrand passed some tim 
under this roof, and it has been succes 
sively occupied by Prime, the bankei 
Mayor Mickle, and other eminent citizen 
Since 1849, it has been occupied as 
hotel, first by Jonas Bartlett, and subse 
quently, in 1862, by Mr. E. Merrill, who 
is the present lessee. 

The freight-shed just north of the KeiA 
nedy House stands on the spot occupie* 
during colonial times by the " Burn 
Coffee-House," and upon or near the siti 
of the Dutch Tavern of Burgomaster Mai 
tin Crigier. Subsequently (1*763) it wa 
known as the " King's Arms." In 1*761 
Gen. Gage held his headquarters here 
During the British possession -of the cit; 
the traitor Arnold lodged here. It servec 
in turn as boarding-house, tavern, and bee 
garden, being last known as the Atlanti( 
Garden, when it was numbered 11 Broad 
way. Previous to the present century, 
Chancellor Livingston resided at No 
this block. 

On the southerly corner of Morrii 
Street stood the residence or parsonage 
of the Dominie Megapolensis. This after- 
ward became the property of Balthasat 
Bayard, kinsman of Governor Stuy^'csant, 
who erected a brewery on the premises, 
near the river shore, the access to which 
was by a lane on the present line of Mor- 
ris Street. North of and adjoining Mor- 
ris Street was the old Dutch burial-ground, 
the first established on the island. It 
extended along Broadway between 100 
and 200 feet. Above Morris Street, little 
is known of the appearance of Broadway 
during the colonial times, the fire of 17'76« 
having swept every vestige of a land mark- 
away. Oyster Pasty Alley — now Ex- 
change Place — west of Broadway, wai 



New York City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York City. 



originally an obscure path leading to a 
small redoubt connected with the city 

'fortifications. The Congress Hall, or 
Town Hall, which also included the Law 
Courts and Prison, stood at the corner of 

'Wall and Nassau Streets, the site of the 
present United States Treasury. Here 
Washington was inaugurated the first 

; President, April, 1789. Washington's 
farewell interview with his officers took 
place at Prance's Tavern, corner of Pearl 
and Broad Streets, long since removed. 

Where the Mechanics' Bank now 
stands, south side of Wall Street, be- 
tween Broad and William Streets, Hamil- 
ton wrote " The FederaUst." Tammany 
Hall, in Nassau Street, opposite the City 
Hall, and near the present Tribune office, 
covers the spot where Leisler and Mil- 
bourne were killed, May 16, 1661. It 
formed the boundary of what was then 
known as Beekman's Swamp. 

The Old Dutch Church in Nassau Street, 
is an object of much interest. Until with- 
in a few years past adjoining the old 
church in Liberty Street, stood the Sugar- 
House Prison, It was founded in 1689, 
and occupied for the purpose of sugar 
refining till I'ZVY, when Lord Howe used 
it as a place of confinement for American 
prisoners. Wallabout Bay, Long Island, 
now within the corporate limits of Brook- 
lyn, was used for a similar purpose about 
the same time, but we must not travel so 
far now. 

Washington Irving's birthplace stood 
in William Street, between John and 
Fulton Streets. The site is now covered 
by wholesale stores, but can be readily 
found by the enterprising or curious. 
The gentle, genial author of the " Sketch- 
Book" has fouxd a more fitting resting- 
place hard by his own Sleepy Hollow. 
South of St. Mark's Church, between 

j Second and Third Avenues, stood Gov- 
ernor Stuyvesant's house, on what was 
then his " Bowerie Farm." It was pulled 
down — when is not accurately known. 

I The Stuyvesant pear-tree still stands on 
the corner of Third Avenue and Thirteenth 
Street, surrounded by an iron railing. It 

! was imported from HoUand in le-iV, and 

I planted in what was then the governor's 
garden. It is 220 years old. A slab 
bearing an appropriate inscription sur- 
mounts a vault in the east wall of St. 



Mark's Church, in which are preserved 
all that remains, except the memory of 
his good deeds, of the old governor. 

The old Walton House, No. 326 Pearl 
Street, erected by Walton, in 1754 ; 
Washington City Mansion, at the north- 
ern angle of Franklin Square, comer of 
Dover and Pearl Streets, and the Rich- 
mond Hill House, a wooden building, ,)f 
great celebrity, which stood at the inter- 
section of Varick and Charlton Streets, 
have long since passed away. Cobbett's 
seed-store was at No. 62 Fulton Street, 
and Grant Thorburn's— in its time, one 
of the most notable objects in the city — 
stood on Liberty, between Broadway and 
Nassau, in a building previously occupied 
by the Society of Friends as a meeting- 
house. 

In Beekman St., near Nassau, stood the 
brick meeting-house in which Whitefield 
preached. It was built in 1764, on what 
was then open fields. At the present 
rate of metropolitan growth Manhattan 
Island will soon not have an open field 
left. 

First-class Business Houses. — New 
York, particularly its leading business 
thoroughfares, Broadway, Canal Street, 
and the Bowery, are famous for the fine 
stores they contain. The following will 
best repay a visit : 

Banking Houses. — Duncan, Sherman & 
Co., corner Pine and Nassau, and Brown 
Brothers, in Wall Street. Travellers de- 
siring letters of credit, foreign or domestic 
exchange, wiU find these desirable houses 
to deal with. 

Newspapers. — The magnificent print- 
ing establishments of the New York 
Herald, the Times, and the Tribune, are 
well worth seeing. 

Publishing Houses. — Those of the 
Messrs. Appleton, 443 and 445 Broadway, 
and the extensive establishment of the 
Harpers in Franklin Square, will each well 
reward a visit. 

Jewellers, etc. — The establishments of 
Tiffiiny & Co., 550 Broadway, and of 
Ball, Black & Co., corner of Broadway 
and Prince Street, are the finest and 
most extensive of their kind in the coun- 
try. 

Dry Goods. — The great dry goods pal- 
aces of A. T. Stewart & Co., Broadway, 
of Lord & Taylor, 461 Broadway, and 
23 



New Youk City.] 



NEW YORK. 



[BliOOK-LYN. 



259 Grand Street ; and of H. B. Claflin & 
Co., 140 Church Street, should not be 
omitted by those who would judge of the 
city's trade. 

Fiano-fortes. — Steinway & Sons, 71 E. 
Fourteenth Street. 

Rubber fabrics.— The N. Y. Belting 
and Packing Co., 37 and 38 Park Row. 

J^'/rc Insurance. — The Home Insurance 
Company, 135 Broadway, and the North 
American, 114 Broadway, ai-e among the 
oldest and most reliable companies in 
New York. 

Clothing.— L. T. Brownell, 503 Broad- 
way, has one of the choicest stocks of 
ready-made clothing in the city. Mr. D. 
Russell, at 835 Broadway, corner of 
Thirteenth Street, has the latest fashions 
for gentlemen's custom-work. 

Gentlemen'' s Furnishing, etc. — Mr. 
Union Adams, at 637 Broadway, keeps 
the lai'gest and best-selected stock in the 
city. His goods are fashionable, and of 
the best quality. 

Landscape and Marine Glasses for 
travellers. — Tlie best assortment of a first- 
rate quality are to be found at Semmons, 
669^ Broadway, under the Southern (late 
Lafarge) Hotel, 

Furniture and Ho^tsekeeping Articles.— 
H. H. Casey (late J. & C. Berrian), 601 
Broadway. 

Art Materials and Picture Galleries. — 
Bendann Bros, (photographers), Fifth Av- 
enue, corner Seventeenth Street; Goupil 
& Co. (M. Knoedler, successor), Broad- 
way and Ninth Street ; Schaus, 749 Broad- 
way. 

Billiard Tables. — Phelan & Collender, 
63-69 Crosby Street. 

Mineral Waters. — Nothing more grate- 
ful during the summer months than 
mineral waters, carefully f)repared and 
judiciously used. Delaiour''s, in Wall 
Street below Broad, and Hanbury SmitJi's 
establishment, "the Spa," in Broadway, 
above Grace Church, are among the 
largest and best establishments of the 
kind in the city. 

Among the most prominent and note- 
worthy objects on Broadway are the es- 
tensive clotliing and furnishing houses of 
Messrs. Brooks Brothers, and Devlin & 
Co., and the extensive China-w'ai'c estab- 
lishment of Messrs. Haughwout, at the 
N. E. corner of Broome Street. 
24 



The private residences on Fifth Av- 
enue, Fourteenth Street, Madison Square, 
and Madison and Lexington Avenues, 
should be seen by the stranger in New 
York. If time permit, a walk or ride 
through one or more of these fine prom- 
enades affords a pleasing and appropri- 
ate contrast to the visitor's Broadway ex 
perience. 

BROOKLYN. 

Hotels. — The Pierrepont House is a 
spacious, well-kept house on the Heights ; 
the Jfansion House, in Hicks Street. 

Brooklyn, situated immediately opposite 
New York, and accessible at all times 
by ferry, merits the attention of the trav- 
eller, both on account of its historical 
associations, the many fine buildings 
which it possesses, and its commercial 
importance. By reason of its proximity to 
New York, and the intimate relations as 
regards population and trade existing 
between it and the metropolis, it is pop- 
ularly regarded as fonning a part of the 
whole. It is the seat of justice of Kings 
County, N. Y., and is situated at the 
west end of Long Island. It is divided 
from New York by a strait called the 
East River, which is crossed by numer- 
ous lines of ferries aifording constant 
communication between the two cities. 
Brooklyn, supposed to be derived from 
the Dutch Breucklen (broken-land), was 
first settled in 1625, near Wallabout 
Bay. This locality became possessed of 
a melancholy interest, during the war 
of the Revolution, as the place where were 
stationed the EngUsh prison-ships, in 
which many thousands of Americans 
perished 'from close confinement and ill 
treatment. The battle of Long Island 
was fought near Brooklvn, August 22, 
1776. The first deed for" land within the 
limits of the city was granted 1639. It 
was incorporated as a township April, 
1806, and as a city April, 1834. Brook- - 
lyn, Wiiliamsburgh, and Bushwick were 
incorporated in one government in Jan- 
uary, 1855, since which time, owing to its 
increased facilities for trade and manu- 
factures, and the large number from New 
York seeking residence thei'c, it has rap- 
idly increased in size and importance. 
The population, whicli in ] 850 was less 



i 



} 




B 



PbotwgrdjhicalLv lectiicedlioiiLTiie Cily Enainm-.Plans 

iViWi aU. ihe latest Lmprovemenis. 

Giving Ifie distances ironiCilyIlaU,Ln /4 Mile C'irclrs. 
Showing disHncfby ffie HotdSj PiihUcBuildinfjSj, Steam & 
Morse RaU-Roads , Weu^d Bmvxdcuries, c^ Firie A.Bisbicls . 

Corrected for Applelou's Hand-Bookof Travel. 




x^ 



ROOKLYN.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Brooklyn. 



an 100,000, had in the succeeding 
scade increased to 266,661, and is now 
;timated at 350,000. The city extends 
om Newtown Creek, including Greeu- 
)int, to the boundary below Greenwood 
emetery, a distance of '7|- miles, and 
early 10 miles following the low-water 
Brooklyn proper is designated as 
le Western District (W. D.), and Wil- 
misburgh, Greenpoint, and Bushwick 
the Eastern District (E. D.). South 
rooklyn and East New York are outly- 
g portions of the city, rapidly becoming 
)pulous. The city is in many parts ele- 
^ntly built, and the bold position on the 

I eights, looking directly down upon the 
vev and bay, forms a charming site for 
summer abode. Some of the avenues 
e wide, delightfully shaded, and 
led with cottage residences. It is di- 
-ded into 20 wards, and governed by a 
ay or and board of aldermen. 
I Among the principal objects of interest 
and around Brooklyn are Greenwood 
emetery, Washington and Prospect 
rks, the Navy Yard and Wallabout 
y, the Atlantic Docks, City Hall and 
urt-House, Plymouth Church, and sev- 
•al other of the church edifices, with 
hich the city abounds. 
Places of Amusement, etc. — The 
cademy of Music is in Montague Street, 
arly opposite the Post-Office. It cost 
25,'000, and has sittings for nearly 3,000 
rsons. 

Park Theatre^ on Fulton Street, op- 
bsite City Hall. 

Jlooleifs Opera House, Court Street, 
Drner of Remsen Street (negro min- 
lelsy, etc.). 

Trenor^ Washington Hall, corner 
3uth Seventh and Fourth Streets. 
The Brooklyn Athenceum, corner of 
Itlantic and Clinton Streets, in South 
rooklyn, is a fine edifice of brick, with 
own-stone facings. It has an admirable 
rary (Mercantile), reading-rooms, and 
lacious lecture or concert hall, 
he Lyceum, containing the city library 
' . a good lecture-room, is at the corner 
Washington and Concord Streets, 
he Brooklyn Conservatory of Music, 
) Clinton Street, and the Collegiate and 
jlytechnic Listitute, in Livingston Street, 
t-e among the foremost educational in- 
.itutions of the city. 
2 



Parks, etc. — These, together with the 
well-shaded avenues and streets in the 
southwest quarter, form an attractive 
feature of the city. The following are 
the most noteworthy and popular resorts : 

Washington Park (Fort Greene) oc- 
cupies an elevated plateau northeast of 
the City Hall. During the war of the 
Revolution it was the site of extensive 
fortifications, of which the ruins of Fort 
Greene are now all that remain. It is 
pleasantly shaded, and commands an ex- 
tensive view. 

Prospect Park is the name very appro- 
priately given to a new public ground 
laid out with great liberality and taste in 
the southwest portion of the city. But 
little has yet been done, beyond laying 
off the site, but the work is in active 
progress, and it bids fair at no very 
distant day to rival the famous Central 
of New York. Lefferfs Park, between 
Greenpoint and De Kalb Avenues, is a 
smaller, though much frequented ground. 
South Brooklyn has numerous beautiful 
drives and walks. Clinton Avenue and 
the upper part of Pacific and Bergen 
Streets contain some of the finest private 
residences. Visitors with suflicient time 
at their disposal will find a pleasant trip 
to the city (Nassau) Water Works, facing 
Prospect Park, near the main entrance. 

Cemeteries. — Greenwood Cemetery is 
in the south part of Brooklyn, at Gowanus, 
about three miles from Fulton feiTy land- 
ing. Access is had by the cars, which pass 
the cemetery gates every fifteen minutes 
throughout the day. Free entrance is al- 
lowed to persons on foot during week-days, 
but on the Sabbath none but the proprie- 
tors of lots and their families, and persons 
with them, are admitted ; others than 
proprietors can obtain a permit for car- 
riages on week-days. Office, 30 Broad- 
way, New York. This cemetery was incor- 
porated in 1838, and contains 242 acres 
of ground, about one-half of which is 
covered with wood of a natural growth. 
It originally contained 172 acres, but re- 
cently 70 more have been added by pur- 
chase, and brought within the enclosure. 
These grounds have a varied surface of 
hills, valleys, and plains. The elevations 
afford extensive views ; that from Ocean 
Hill, near the western line, presents a 
wide range of the ocean, with a portion 
25 



Brooklyn.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Brooklyn. 



of Leng Island. Battle HUl, in tlie north- 
west, commands an extensive view of the 
cities of Brooklyn and New York, tlie 
Hudson Eiver, the noble bay, and of 
New Jersey and Statcn Island. From 
the other elevated grounds in the Cem- 
etery there are also fine prospects. 

Greenwood is traversed by winding ave- 
nues and paths, twenty miles in extent, 
which afford visitors 'svith sufficient time 
at their disposal an opportunity of seeing 
every part of this extensive cemetery. 
Sevei'al of the monuments, original in 
their design, are very beautiful, and can- 
not fail to attract the notice of strangers. 
Those to the memory of Miss Cauda, of 
the Indian Princess Dohumme, and the 
"mad poet," McDonald Clark, near the 
Sylvan Water, are admirable; as also 
are the memorials to the Pilots and to 
the Firemen. The proceeds ai-ising from 
the sale of lots are devoted to the preser- 
vation, improvement, and embellishment 
of the cemetery. Visitors, by keeping 
the main avenue, called The Tour, as in- 
dicated by guide-hoards, will obtain the 
best general vie.w of the cemetery, and 
will be able to regain the entrance with- 
out difficulty. Unless this caution be 
observed, they may find themselves at a 
loss to discover their way out. To the 
east of Greenwood, distant about four 
miles, are the cemeteries of the Ever- 
greens and Cypress Hilh. 

Public Builbings. — The United States 
Nav-y Yard should next be visited. 
It occupies nearly forty aci'es of ground 
"upon the south side of Wallabout Baj% 
in the northeast quarter of the city. 
The property at this yard is valued at 
$25,000,000. The United States Naval 
Lyceum, m the Navy Yard, is a literary 
institution, formed in 1833 by officers of 
the navy connected with the port. It con- 
tains a fine collection of curiosities, and 
mi-neralogical and geological cabinets. 
A Dry Dock has been constructed here, 
at a cost of about $1,000,000. On the 
opposite side of the Wallabout, half a 
mile east of the Navy Yard, is the Ma- 
rine Hospital, a fine building, erected on 
a commanding situation, and surrounded 
by upward of thirty acres of well-cul- 
tivated ground. 

At the Wallabout were stationed the 
Jersey and other prison-ships of the 
26 



* 



English during the Revolutionary War, in 
which it is said 11,500 American prison- 
ers perished from bad air and ill-treat- 
ment. In 1808 the bones of the suffer- 
ers, which had been washed out from the 
bank where they had been slightly buried, 
were collected, and deposited in 13 cof- 
fins, inscribed with the names of the 13 
original States, and placed in a vault 
beneath a wooden building erected foi 
the purpose in Hudson Avenue, oppositi 
to Front Street, near the Navy Yard. 

The Atlantic Dock, about a mile b& 
low the South Ferry, Brooklyn, is a verj 
extensive work, and worthy the attention 
of strangers. The best approach from 
New York is by the Hamilton Avenue 
Ferry. The company was incorporated 
in May, 1840, with a capital of $1,000,000. 
The basin within the piers contains 42 
acres, with sufficient depth of water fo 
the largest ships. The piers are of solid 
granite. Many of the warehouses and 
buildings in this neighborhood are of 
enormous size and capacity. 

The City Halt, at the junction of Court 
and Fulton Streets, is one mile distant 
from the ferry. It is a handsome build- 
ing in the Doric style, and is built of 
white marble from the Westchester] 
quarries. Its length is 162 feet, and it 
height to the top of the cupola is 353 
feet. Cost, $200,000. 

The County Court House, fronting on! 
Fulton Street, in the immediate vicinity 
of the City Hall, is an -imposing edifice, 
though seen to poor advantage. It is 
140 feet wide, and extends 315 feet back 
to Livingston Street. It is in the Co- 
rinthian style of architecture, and cost 
$543,000. 

Kings County Jail is in Eaymond 
Street. It is a heavy-looking, castellatei" 
Gothic edifice of red sandstone. Th 
State Arsenal and City Hospital are als 
in the vicinity. 

The Pos^O^ce is in Montague Street, 
opposite the City Hall. 

Churches. — Brooklyn has been callei 
tlie " City of Churches." In the numbei 
and elegance of its church edifices it sur-i 
passes any other city in the TJnion.j 
There are 124 churches in the westeri 
and upward of 50 in the eastern (Wil- 
liamsburgh) district of the city. Amon 
the most costly and hnposing are thej 



J 



Ikookltn.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Brooklyn. 



Vhurch of the Holy Trinity^ corner Mon- 
ague and Clinton Streets (Episcopal). 
?he Church of the Pilgrims, Congre- 
jational (Rev. R. S. Storrs), comer Henry 
.nd Remsen Streets, in the early Norman 
tyle, was erected in 1845. The Church 
f the Saviour, Pierrepont Street, corner 
^f Monroe Place (Unitarian). Plipnouth 
"'hurcJi (Rev. Henry Ward Beecher) is 

I Orange, between Hicks and Henry 
streets. A splendid organ, the second 
argest in the United States, was added 
a 1866. It contains 8,442 pipes, and 
ost .$25,000. This church has sittings for 
1,500 persons. Owing to the size of the 
congregation and the preacher's popular- 
ty, it is difficult for strangers to obtain a 
eat. Lafayette Avenue Church, corner Ox- 
ord Street (Presbyterian), Rev. Dr. Theo- 
lore L. Cuyler ; Grace Church, Brook- 
yn Heights (Epis. ), Rev. E. A. Hoffitnan ; 
'Jrace Ckurcli, Conselyea Street, E. D., 
lev. Alvah Guion; Christ Church, Clin- 
on Street, Dr. Canfield ; First Reformed 
Dutch Church, Joraleujon Street, Rev. 
)r. Willets ; First Presbyterian Church, 
lenry, near Clark Street, Rev. C. S. Rob- 
nson ; Dutch Reformed Church, on the 
leights, Pierrepont Street, Rev. James 

ells, D. D. ; St. Ann's Church, Wash- 
ngton, corner Sands Street, Rev. William 
3. Mills ; Second Preshytericm Church 
0. S.), Clinton, near Fulton Street, Rev. 
sat. West. 

CilAKITABLE INSTITUTIONS. The Loug 

fsland College Hospital is a noble charity, 

iberally endowed, and occupying a spa- 

ious edifice located on Heury, near Pacific 

Btreet. The Graham Institute, for the 

elief of respectable indigent females, 

ccupies a prominent and spacious edifice 

n Washington Avenue, near De Kalb 

venue. The City Hospital, organized 

845, is in Raymond Street. 

Newspaper Offices. — The Broohlyn 

Fagle is issued from No. 30 Fulton Street. 

jfhe Brooklyn Union office is on Front, 

hear Fulton Street. These papers and 

fhe Times, on South Seventh Street 

' E. D. ), are all issued in the evening. Der 

Freischiitz, a new weekly, is published in 

Scholes Street (E. D.). 

; Ferries. — From Fulton St., N. Y., to 

'Fulton St., Brooklyn, every five minutes. 

i Wall Street Ferrij.—Wa.\\ Street, N. Y., 

to Montague Street, Brooklyn. 



South Ferry. — ^From Whitehall Street, 
N. Y., to Atlantic Street, Brooklyn. 

Hamilton F\rry. — Whitehall Street, 
N. Y., to Hamilton Avenue and Atlantic 
Docks, Brooklyn. 

Catharine Ferry. — Catharine Street, 
N. Y., to Main Street, Brooklyn. 

Jackson Ferry. — From Jackson Street, 
N. Y., to Bridge Street, Brooklyn. 

To Brooklyn, F. D. { Williamsburgh), 
from Peck Slip, Rjoosevelt Street, Grand 
Street, and Houston Street, N. Y., every 
ten minutes. 

Division Avenue. — From Grand Street, 
N. Y., to South Seventh Street, Brooklyn. 

Street Railways. — From Fulton 
Ferry: Fulton Avenue and Atlantic 
Avenue lines, to Bedford and East 
New York ; Fulton Avenue, to Prospect 
Park and Flatbush ; Court Street and 
Fifth Avenue lines, to Greenwood : Myrtle 
Avenue, to Williamsburgh and Green- 
point ; Flushi^ig Avenue, to the Navy 
Yard and Greenpoint ; De Kalh Avenue, to 
Williamsburgh ; Smith Street, etc., to Co- 
ney Island. From S. Seventh St., E. D. : 
Broadivay, to East New York. Trains on 
the Brooklyn Central Railway leave South 
Ferry seven times daily for Jamaica, 1 1 
miles, where connection is made with the 
Long Island Railway for Greenport, &c. 

Walks, etc. — For one week, embracing 
objects best worth visiting in New York 
and Brooklyn. (For more detailed men- 
tion of these several objects, see Index.) 

First day. — Central Park and Reser- 
voirs, extending the trip via Blooming- 
dale Road, to the north end of the island, 
visiting the Orpliau Asylum, Lunatic 
Asylum, High Bridge, and the Croton 
Aqueduct. Second day, Washington's 
Headquarters, Kennedy House, the Cus- 
tom-House and Treasury in Wall Street, 
and Trinity Church : the view from the 
tower will appropriately close this day's 
journey. If time permit, the City Hall and 
new Court House may be visited. Third 
day. Greenwood Cemetery, Fort Greene, 
and if not too late, the Navy Yard, Brook- 
lyn. Fourth day, the Astor Library, 
Cooper Union, Academy of Design, and 
neighboring parks, Madison and Gram- 
ercy; at night the Academy of. Music, 
or one of the numerous theatres. Fifth 
day, if in summer, a sail down the Bay, 
visiting Staten Island, Fort Hamilton, 
21 



Harlem.] 



NEW YOEK. 



[Staten Island. \l/. 



Fort Lafayette, and if facilities offer, 
BlackwelFs and Ward's Islands, Pen- 
itentiary buildings in the East River, 
will most agreeably occupy a whole day. 
Sixth dm/, a walk or drive through Broad- 
way, visiting the leading art-gallevics and 
stores, Fifth Avenue and the Union Club, 
the University, etc. 

The Croton Aqmdud, by means of 
which the city is supplied with water 
constitutes its greatest public work. The 
water is brought from Croton River, a 
distance of 40 miles. The original cost 
of this magnificent work was over 
$13,000,000. The Receiving Reservoirs 
in the Central Park, and the great Dis- 
tributing Reservoir in Fifth Avenue, be- 
tween Fortieth and Forty-second Streets, 
are well worth a visit. (See Centkal 
Park.) 

High Bridge is a noble work, constructed 
for the passage of the Croton Aqueduct 
over the Harlem River, from Westches- 
ter County to the island of New York. 
The High Bridge may be pleasantly 
reached by the Third Avenue cars or the 
Harlem Railway (Foui'th Avenue) to 
Harlem, and thence up the Harlem River 
a mile or two in excursion steamboats. 

The New Arsenal, which takes the 
place of the old edifice now within the 
Central Park grounds, is on the Seventh 
Avenue. It may be reached by the Sixth 
Avenue or the Broadway Railroads. 

Marlemij a part of New Yoi-k, is situ- 
ated upon the Harlem River, at the north- 
ern end of the island, seven miles from 
the City Hall. It was founded by the 
Dutch, in 1658. Constant communication 
with the city by the Harlem and Third 
Avenue Railroads. Blooming dale and 
Manliattanville are at the north end of 
the Island of New York. " The Grange," 
the last residence of the lamented Hamil- 
ton, was located at Bloomingdale. Bloom- 
ingdale Road is a popular and pleasant 
drive. " Elm Park," once the mansion 
of the Apthorp family, and the Lunatic 
Asylum, are reached by this road. Man- 
hattanville contains two flourishing Cath- 
olic institutions, the Convent of the Sacred 
Heart and the ManJiattan College. Clare- 
mont, just south of Manhattanville, is a 
famous resort for frequenters of the 
Bloomingdale Road. It was once the 
residence of Viscount Courtney, afterward 
28 



Earl of Devon, and later of Joseph Bona- 
parte. Trinity Cemetery, near by, con- 
tains the remains of Audubon the natu- 
ralist. 

ISoltoken and WecliawlceM, 
charming rural resorts in summer time, 
are across the Hudson River, on the New 
Jersey shore. Here are delightful walks 
for miles along the margin of the river, 
and on high ground, overlooking the bay 
and city. The Elysian Fields, a beauti- 
fully wooded resort, much frequented by 
sporting and picnic parties, are reached 
by street car or foot-path, half a mile 
from the ferry landing. At Weehawken 
occurred the duel between General Ham- 
ilton and Colonel Burr, in which the 
former was killed, July 11, 1804. The 
ground is about three-quarters of a mile 
below the Forty-second Street Ferry. 
North Union Hill and New Durham are 
scattered villages on the top of the Pali- 
sades, connected with Hoboken by stage. 
At Seacaucics, four miles west of Hoboken, 
on the Paterson, N. J., plar.k road, are 
the race-course of the Hudson County 
Association, and the training-stables of 
Colonel McDaniels. 

@ta,ten. Islamd. — The trip to 
Staten Island affords one of the many 
pleasant excursions daily made during 
the summer months in the vicinity of 
New York. Nothing can be more enjoy- 
able than a sail down the bay to any of 
the villages and landings of Staten Island ; 
and nothing more agreeable than the 
sight of its many suburban villas, or of 
the superb views over land and sea which 
its high grounds command. Brighton is 
a particularly beautiful little village, with 
good hotels and boarding-houses. Near: 
it is the Sailors'' Snug Harhor, an ancient; 
foundation for dilapidated mariners. Two 
miles east of Brighton is t\x& Marine Hos- 
pital and the village of Tompkinsville. 
The trip to Staten Island occupies 
about half an hour. Ferry from Pier 1, 
E. R. (Whitehall Street), five times daily, 
connecting at Yanderbilt's Landing with 
trains on Staten Island Railroad, for Gar- 
rettsons, Richmond, Tottenville, and way 
stations. Through distance to Totten- 
ville 11 miles. 

Eort Hamilton, eight miles down the 
bay, commands, in connection with Forts 
Lafayette, Tompkins, and Richmond, op-' 



jONG Island.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Long Island. 



)Osite, the passage seaward of the Nar- 
ows. It is a summer residence and re- 
ort for sea bathing. Boats to Coney 
shmd land passengers. 

Governor' s Island, on which are Forts 
'Jolumbus and Castle William, and Bed- 
oe and Ellis's (" Gibbet ") Islands, are 
ilso seen oa the passage down the bay. 
' Coney Island, belonging to the town of 
irravesend, is five miles long, and one 
)road, and is situated about 12 miles 
rom New York. It has a fine beach 
renting the ocean, and is much frequent- 
id liy New Yorkers. Pn the north side 
jf the island are two hotels, the " Pavil- 
ion " and the " Tivoli," where excellent 
am-bakes and chowders are served, 
'here are other hotels and boarding- 
ouses up the beach. Steamer Naushon, 
■om foot of Christopher and Morris 
treets, or steam cars from Brooklyn via 
reenwood and New Utrecht. A pleas- 
nt day's excursion may be made from 
ew York by the ferry to Brooklyn, 
bending the forenoon at Greenwood, 
lence to Coney Island, returning to the 
ty by the Naushon, which leaves the 
land on her last trip at 6.15 o'clock. 
; Astoria, a suburban village on Long 
hand, six miles up the East River, near 
Vq famous whirlpool of Hell Gate, a place 
f beautiful villas. Steamboat, foot of 
ulton Street, East River. 
The New York Bay Cemetery, on the 
rsey shore, is reached after a pleasant 
ill down the harbor. It is one of the 
ost beautiful rural spots in the vicinage 
New York. 

(For other places and points of interest 
id resort in the vicinity of New York, 
e Long Island, New Jersey, etc.) 



MOUTE I. 
LOWa ISLAND. 

Long Island, part of the State of New 
ork, is 11.5 miles in length, and at some 
)ints 20 miles in breadth ; bounded by 

e Atlantic on the south, and by Long 
jland Sound on the north. The upper 
irt of the island is agreeably diversified 
ith hills, though the surface is for the 
Jost part strikingly level. The coast is 

armingly indented with bays ; and deli- 



cious fresh-water ponds, fed by springs, 
are everywhere found on terraces of vary- 
ing elevation. These little lakes, and the 
varied coast views, give Long Island pic- 
turesque features, which, if not grand, are 
certainly of most attractive and winning 
character, heightened by the rural beauty 
of the numerous quiet little towns and 
charming summer villas. Along the lower 
shore of the island, which is a network 
of shallow, land-locked waters, extending 
'70 miles, fine shooting and fishing is to 
be had. Hotel and boarding-house ac- 
commodation is abundant. The Bonff 
Island llailway affords the readiest and 
most expeditious means of visiting the 
numerous points on the island. (See Map.) 

Stations. — Hunter's Point, Jamaica, 
Brush ville, Hyde Park, Hempstead Branch, 
Hempstead, Westbury, Hickville, Syosset, 
Jerusalem, Fai-mingdale, Deer Park, 
Thompson, North Islip, Lakeland, Waver- 
ley, Medford, Taphank, Manor, River 
Head, Jamesport, Mattituck, Cutchogue, 
Hermitage, South old, and Greenport, 99 
miles. Passengers leave by James Slip 
Ferry, or foot of Thirty-fourth Street, East 
River, New York, for Hunter's Point 
depot. 

Flathush, about five miles from Brook- 
lyn, has a flourishing educational institu- 
tion and several churches ; near this vil- 
lage the American army was defeated in 
1*776. Elatlands and Gravesend, tenmiles, 
are small but handsome places. The 
shores of the latter place abound with 
clams, oysters, and fowl, and are much 
resorted to. 

Battle of Long Island (August, l^^e). 
The thoughts of the tourist on the quiet 
pastoral plains of Long Island will revert 
with interest to that eventful night when 
the British troops, under Sir Henry 
GUnton, Lord Comwallis, and General 
Howe, made their silent, unsuspected 
march from Flatlands, through the 
swamps and passes to Bedford Hills, 
stealing upon the rear and almost sur- 
rounding the patriot Unes — " that able and 
fatal scheme, which cost the Americans 
the deadly battle of Long Island, with the 
loss of nearly 2,000 out of the 5,000 men 
engaged." The surprise of the attack, 
the obstinacy of the conflict, the bold 
retreat, and the loss of the city of New 
York, to v/hich it led, make this battle 
29 



Long Island.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Long Island. 



one of the most romantic episodes in the 
histoiy of the Kevokition. 

Jamaica, 12 miles distant, is an inter- 
esting old rural town, situated on Jamaica 
Buy. The name is derived from the 
Yameca tribe of Indians wiiieh located at 
Beaver Pond. It was settled (1656) by 
Daniel Denton and others. It contains 
six churclit'S, and a few fine residences, 
among wliicli is that of ex-Governor King. 
The tfnion Race-course is in tliis town- 
ship. 

Brushville (Queens), on the Long Island 
Railway, two miles east of Jamaica, is an 
attractive resort during the summer. 

Hyde ParTc, formerly the seat of the 
Hon. George Duncan Ludlow, is about 
half a mile north of the road, beyond 
Queens. Here (1818) William Cobbett 
composed his English Grammar. 

Jiockaivai/ Beach, a once celebrated and 
still pleasant watering-place, on the At- 
lantic coast, is in a southeast direction 
from New York. The Sea-side Rouse, 
upon the beach, a short distance from 
the ocean, affoi-ds good accommodations 
for visitors. There are several other 
hotels here, also several pi-ivate board- 
ing-houses. The best route to Rockaway 
is by the Long Island Railway to Jamaica, 
twelve miles, thence by stage eight miles, 
over an excellent road to the beach. Dur- 
ing the summer season a steamboat plies 
between New York and Rockaway. The 
South Side Eaihoay will soon be in oper- 
ation between Jamaica and Rockaway. 
JRock Hall, built by Dr. Martin, is a fine 
old mansion, and contains some valuable 
pictures. In the burial-ground of the 
Methodist church at Rockaway, built 
1*790, is the grave and monument of the 
victims of the wreck of the Bristol and 
Mexico, which were lost November 21, 
1836, and Jan. 2, 1837. 

Cedurmere, the home of W. Cullen Bry- 
ant, is near the pretty village of Roslyn 
(Hempstead Harbor), at the head of 
Hemjistead Bay, about two hours' journey 
from New York ; route by steamboat to 
Glen Cove, and thence by stage, or by the 
Long Island Railway, 20 miles to Hemp- 
stead Branch (Mineola), and thence by 
stage. Near Mineola are the Queen's 
County Agricultural Fair grounds and 
buildings. Cedarmere is a spot of great 
though quiet, picturesque beauty, over- 
30 



loolcing Hempstead Bay, and the Con- | 
necticut shore across the Sound. Many 
of the charming terraced spring-water 
lakes, of which we have spoken already . 
as among the pleasant and unique fea- \ 
tures of the Long Island landscape, are j 
found within the domain of Cedarmere, ■ 
and in the neighborhood of Roslyn. ^ 
Within a pleasant stroll of Mr. Bryant's 
residence is Hempstead Hill, said to be 
the highest land on Long Island. This 
fine eminence overlooks the Sound and 
inlets on the one hand, and the ocean 
beach on the other ; at its base the village 
of Rosljn is nestled among green treea 
and placid lakelets. Roslyn is also the 
residence of Joseph W. Moultou, author 
of a " History of New York." 

Hempstead Village, in the township of 
North Hempstead, 21 miles east of Brook- 
lyn, is an interesting place. It was origi- 
nally bought by the Dutch in 1640, wlio 
gave the place its name Hemsteede 
(homestead), since corrupted to Hemp- 
stead. It was afterward (1684) settled 
by New Englanders who came hither by 
way of Stamford. It contains three 
churches, several good schools, two 
hotels, and a population of nearly 2,000. 
The park is prettily laid out. The Rev. 
Richard Denton, and his son, Daniel 
Denton, the historian, were among the 
first settlers of Hempstead. The old 
Presbyterian burial-ground contains some 
quaint headstones. Hempstead Plains is 
an open space of 12,000 acres, embra- 
cing the Newmarket Race-course, where 
the annual "Huckleberry Frolic" takes 
place. In 1784 the town of North Hemp- 
stead was separated from Hempstead by 
act of the Legislature, and has since been 
a separate town. Among the distinguish- 
ed men born in the town of North Hemp- 
stead were Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell, un- 
equalled in his day as a naturalist, and 
the late Valentine Mott, M. D., who had 
not his equal as a surgeon. Success Pond, 
famous for its perch fisheries, and Lake-. 
villc, a little village which has sprung up 
on its marge,, are both in the town of 
North Hempstead. The village of i)/a?i-^ 
hasset, near Success, contains a few an- j 
cient structures, among which are thej 
Friends' Meeting-House, built in 1810, 1^ 
Christ Church, and the Dutch Reformed '"' 
Church. 



i"E\T TOEK,] 



NEW YORK. 



[New York. 



Islip, a village of Suffolk County, is 
leasantly situated on Great South Bay, 
nd is a favorite resort during the sum- 
ler months. Disfent from New York 
miles. The Pavilion Ls the leading 
otel. 

Flushing, 10 miles from the metropolis, 
n an arm of the Sound called Flushing 
av, affords a pleasant excursion. The 
imuean Botarde Garden is here. Boat 
b Fulton Street twice daily. Also by 
lil from Hunter's Point, Thirty-fourth 
itreet Ferry. 

Gleii Cove, and other pleasant points on 
le island, are reached daily by boat from 
ew York. The steamer Arrovj Smith 
aves Peck Slip, Pier 24 East Kiver, 
?ery morning at 9.15, for Glen Cove, 
oslyn, and way landings. 



TO ALBANY AND TROT. 

It is fortunate for the gratification and 
jie cultivation of the public taste, for the 
jiblime and beautiful in natural scenery, 
hen our great highways of travel chance 
I lead through such wondrous land- 
ape as does our present journey up the 
udson River, from New York to Al- 
liny. Even to the wearied or the liur- 
ed traveller this voyage is ever one of 
easure, in its unique and constantly 
trying attractions, its thousand associa- 
pns, legendary, historical, poetical, and 
jcial. 

j The Hudson received its name in honor 
I Hendrick Hudson, a Dutch navigator, 
ho discovered it, and ascended its 
aters for the first time in his vessel, 
" Half Moon," in 1609. It is also 
aown as the North River, which name 
|as given to it by the original Dutch 
Zionists, to distinguish it from the 
buth (Zuyd), as they called the neigh- 
k'ing floods of the Delaware. Its source 

in the mountain region of the Adirou- 
icks, in Essex County, east of Long 
ike, in the upper portion of New York, 
bence it flows in two small streams — 
e one from Hamilton and the other 
oni Essex County. These waters, after 
journey of 40 miles, unite in Warren 
;unty. Its head-waters are nearly 
000 feet above the sea level. The 
»ursc of the Hudson varies from south 



by east for some distance, but at length 
drops into a straight line, and continues 
thus nearly southward, until it falls 
into the Bay of New York. Its entire 
extent is about 326 miles; its navigable 
length, from the sea to Albany, is nearly 
half that distance. Its breadth, near the 
head of steamboat navigation, varies 
from 300 to 900 yards; and at the 
Tappan Bay, 20 miles above the City 
of New York, it widens to the extent 
of four and a half miles. Ships of the 
first class can navigate the river as far 
as Hudson, IIV miles, and small sail- 
ing craft may reach the head of tide- 
water (166 miles) at Troy. To the 
Hudson belongs the honor, not only of 
possessing the finest liver steamboats in 
the world, but of having borne upon its 
waters the first steamboat that ever floated, 
when Robert Fulton ascended the river 
in the " Clermont," in 180*7, exactly two 
centuries after the first voyage of Hen- 
drick Hudson in the " Half Moon." 

The vijjitor or tourist up the Hud- 
son has every possible facility for seeing 
its various points to advantage ; he can 
proceed either by steamer or by railway, 
morning, noon, or night The former is 
much the more desirable during the sum- 
mer months. The boats of the day line, 
Daniel Drew and O. Vibbard, start from 
piers foot of Desbrosses and Thirty- 
fourth Streets, at '7.45 and 8 a. it ; and 
those of the night (People's line), St. John 
and Deaji Richtnond, from foot of Canal 
Street, N. R., at 6 p. m. No Sunday 
boat on either line. 



RAILWAY ROUTE. 

The journey by the Hudson River Rail- 
way, 144 miles, to Albany, though less 
popular with pleasure travellers during 
the heats of summer than the steamboat 
route, is nevertheless a most interesting 
one. The road lies on the eastern bank 
of the river, kissing its waters continually, 
and ever and anon crossing wide bays 
and the mouths of tributary streams. In- 
credible difiiculties have been surmounted 
in its mountain, rock, and water passage, 
and all so successfully and so thoroughly, 
that it is one of the securest routes on 
the continent. Opened 43 miles to Peeks- 
81 



New York.] 



RxiW YORK. 



[New York. 



kill, September 29, 1849, and opened 
through, October 8, 1851. It has eight 
tunnels, with an aggregate length of 
3,595 feet. The total amount expended 
in building and equipping the line was 
$12,'700,000. With its immense butiuess, 
its history is happily free from any con- 
siderable record of collision or accident. 
This is owing as much to the vigilant 
management and the admirable police 
as to the substantial character of the road 
itself. The flag-men are so stationed along 
the entire line, at intervals of a mile, and 
at curves and acclivities, as to secure un- 
broken signal communication from one 
end to the other. Five through trains 
daily from Chambers and Thirtieth Street 
depots, four of which are express. Time, 
five hours. 

Stations. — Manhattan, 8 miles ; Fort 
Washington, TO ; Yonkers, IV ; Dobb's 
Ferry, 22 (ferry to Piermont, Erie Rail- 
way) ; Tarrytown, 21 ; Sing Sing, 32 ; 
Peekskill, 43 ; Garrison's, 51 (steam ferry 
to West Point and Cozzens's Hotel) ; 
Cold Spring, 54 ; Fishkill, 60 (will be the 
junction of Providence, Hartford, and 
Fishkill Railroad, steam terry to New- 
burg, terminus of Newburg branch of 
Erie Railway) ; New Hamburg, 66 ; 
Poughkeepsie, 75 (half-way and refresh- 
ment station) ; Hyde Park, 80 ; . Staats- 
burg, 85 ; Rhinebeck, 90 ; Barrytown, 96 ; 
Tivoh, 100 ; Germantown, 105 ; Oakhill, 
110 (ferry to Catskill village, route to 
Catskill Mountains); Hudson, 115 (Junc- 
tion of the Hudson and Boston Railway) ; 
Stockport, 120 ; Coxsackie, 125 ; Stuy- 
vesant, 126 ; Schodack, 133 ; Castleton, 
136 ; East Albany, 144; Troy, 150 miles. 

{For description of places and scenes, 
see steamboat route following.') 



MOUTE II. 

JSY STUAMI:B8 ok the HUDSON 
MIVEB. 

If the traveller accompany us up the 
Hudson, he will take passage in one of 
the splendid steamers already mentioned 
which leave New York every morning and 
night. 

The size and beauty of the boats, and 
the convenience, comfort, and luxury of 
their appointments, will be matter for 
32 



pleasant wonder and thought, even to 
those most accuEt',>med to them, when- 
ever a moment can be stolen from the 
endless attractions on the way. 

We start as the morning svm is falling 
upon the thousand sail which fill the 
grand bay of New York ; but scarcely 
have our eyes taken in half the beauties 
of this superb panorama — the roofs and 
spires and domes of the great meti'op- 
olis on one side, Jersey City upon th 
opposite shore, the fortresses of Govern 
or's Island, of Bedloe and Ellis's Islands, 
and of Fort Hamilton ; the shores of 
Long Island, and the villa banks of Staten 
Island beyond, with the far-off perspec- 
tive of the hill-bound " Narrows "• — be- 
foi'e we must turn our backs upon it al 
to gaze upon the yet more charming 
scenes which are presented to us as ou; 
steamer ploughs the channel northward. 

Passing in full view of the pleasant vil 
lages of Hoboken and Weehawken, else- 
where described, on the opposite shore, 
we shortly reach the Pcdisades. These 
grand precipices, rising in many places to 
the height of 500 feet, follow, in un- 
bi'oken line, as far as the great bay of 
the river, called the Tappan Zee, a dis- 
tance of 20 miles. They do not wholly 
terminate, hov/ever, until we reach Haver- 
straw, a distance 36 miles from New 
York. The rock is trap, columnar in 
formation, somewhat after the fashion 
of the famous Giant's Causeway in Ire- 
land and of Fingal's Cave in Scotland. 
They lend great beauty to the picture as 
we start upon our journey, and to all the 
pictures of the river, of which they form 
a part. Guttenberg, opposite Seventieth 
Street, is a recent German settlement, 
overlooking the river, famous for its ex- 
tensive brewery. 

BidVs Ferry, opposite Ninetieth Street, 
New York, now lies upon our left. It 
is a favorite summer resort and resi- 
dence of the people of New York. In the 
hot months, the ferry-boats, continually 
plying thither, at a fare of only 12 J cents, 
are thronged with passengers. 

Bloomingdcde, a suburban village, six 
miles from the City Hall, lies ou the 
right. The Orphan Asylum here, with 
its fine lawns sloping down to the river 
edge, forms a conspicuous feature of the 
landscape. 



i\ 



New York.] 



NEW YORK. 



[YONKEKS. 



Fort Lee, ten miles up the river, and 
opposite One Hundred and Sixtieth 
Street, New York, now calls us back 
again to the western shore. It crowns 
the lofty brow of the Palisades, 300 feet 
above the river. Some interesting mem- 
ories of the days of the American Revo- 
lution are awakened here. The anxious 
thoughts of Washington and his generals 
turned to this point in that eventful 
period. A fortification here stood upon 
the heights, which was called Mount Con- 
stitution, and hei-e it was attempted, by 
the express command of Congress, to ob- 
struct the navigation of the river by every 
art and at whatever expense, "as well to 
prevent the egress of the enemy's frigates, 
lately gone up, as to hinder them from re- 
ceiving succors." A large force of Amer- 
icans, in retreating from Fort Lee, were 
overpowered, and either slain or taken 
prisoners by a greatly superior body of 
Hessian troops. 

Fori Washington, another spot of deep 
historical interest, stands on a steep 
projecting cliflE", between One Hundred 
and Eighty-first and One Hundred and 
Eighty-fifth Streets, New York, nearly 
opposite Eort Lee. Like that locality, 
it reminds us of the most trying hours 
of the trying times in American story. 
It fell into the hands of the enemy, 
November 16, 1'7'76, and the garrison 
of 3,000 men became prisoners of war. 
Two days after. Lord Cornwallis, with 
6,000 men, crossed the river, at Dobb's 
Ferry, and attacked Fort Lee. The gar- 
rison there, then commanded by General 
Greene, made a hasty retreat to the en- 
campment of the main army, under Wash- 
ington, five miles back, at Hackensack. 
All the baggage and stores fell into the 
hands of the enemy. The fort was a 
strong earthwork, of irregular form, cov- 
ering several acres. Some 20 pieces of 
ordnance, besides small-arms, bristled 
upon its walls, though its strength lay 
chiefly in its position. The very spot 
v,diere the old fort once stood, as well as 
all the region round, is now covered by the 
peaceful and fragrant lawns and gardens 
of elegant villa residences. Just below 
the high grounds once occupied by Fort 
Washington {Washington Heights), and 
close by the river, is the promontory of 
Jeffrey's Hook. A redoubt was construct- 



ed here as a covering to the chevaux-de- 
frise in the channel. The banks of this 
work are still plainly to be seen. Above 
Fort Washington, on the same side of the 
river, was Fort Tryon. The site now lies 
between One Hundred and Ninety-fifth 
and One Hundred and Ninety-eighth 
Streets, New York. Not far beyond is 
the northern boundary of Manhattan Isl- 
and — the little waters, famous in history 
and story as Spuyten Duyvel (Spite 
the Devil) Creek. King\s Bridge, built 
in 1693, by Frederick Phillips, marks the 
meeting of the waters which flow from 
the East into the North River, and form 
the Island of Manhattan. Hard by (Two 
Hundred and Seventeenth Street), was a 
redoubt of two guns, called Cock Hill 
Fort ; and upon Tetard's Hill, across the 
creek, was Fort Independence, a square 
redoubt with bastions. 

Upon the heights on each side of King's 
Bridge a bloody fight took place between 
the British and American forces, January, 
1'77'7. The heights command an ex- 
tended and picturesque view. 

There was still another military work 
here, strengthened by the British in 1Y81, 
and named Fort Prince. The upper end 
of the island of New York, where we have 
hngered so long, is rich in scenes and 
memories of interest ; and the beautiful 
landscape is yet embellished by abundant 
traces of its early history. 

"IToiaJiei'S— (Hotel, Getty House), 
1*7 miles up the river, is an ancient 
settlement at the mouth of the Ne- 
peran, or Saw-Mill River. Siuce the 
opening of the Hudson River Railway, it 
has become a fashionable suburban town 
of New York, as the short distance 
thence permits pleasant, speedy, and 
cheap transport by land or water, Yon- 
kers was the home of the once famous 
family of the Phillipses, of which was 
Mary Phillips, the first love of General 
Washington. The Manor-House, a spa- 
cious, edifice of stone, built in 1682, is 
still to be seen. The present front was 
added in 174:5. It is now occupied by 
its present owner, Mr. Woodworth. East 
of the Phillips manor-house is Locust Hill, 
where the American troops were encamped 
in 1781. Near the village is the spot 
where Colonel Gist was attacked (1778) 
by a combined force under Tarleton and 
33 



3obb's FEKuy.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Takuytown. 



)tliers. Ill 1'7'7'7 a naval action occurred 
n front of Yonkcrs, between the Ameri- 
can gunboats and tlie British frigates 
:\oss and Tha-nix. Mr. Frederic Coz- 
lens, the author, resides at Yonkers. 
die " Castle " of Mr. Edwin Forrest, 
vnown as FonthiU, is two and a half miles 
lorth of Spuyten Duyvel Creek, and just 
jclow Yonkers. It is now, together with 
I large and more imposing edifice, owned 
ind occupied by the Roman Catholic 
convent and academy of Mount St. 
V^incent. 

llasting's, three miles north of 
i^:)nkers, is a thriving httle village ; the 
/icinity contains many beautiful resi- 
iences. The Palisades here recede from 
/iew on the opposite shore. Hastings has 
ai'ge marble and stone yards. 

IPotols's ff'erry, two miles yet 
jeyond, and still upon the eastern bank 
)f the river, is an ancient settlement, 
ivith a new leaven of metropolitan life, 
ike all the places within an hour or 
;wo's journey from New York. The vil- 
age has a pleasant air, lying along the 
nver slope, at the mouth of the Wisqua- 
jua Creek. Its name is that of an old 
i'amily which once possessed the region 
md established a ferry. Remains of 
mlitary v.'orks still exist at Dobb's 
Ferry. Zion Church is an old and inter- 
esting edifice. 

la-vimg'tom & ** Ssiamysifie." 
[rviugton, four miles above, on the right 
oank, was once called Dearman, and it 
ivas expected to grow into a large town, 
is an outlet of the great Erie Railway, 
svhicli touches the river opposite at Pier- 
aiont ; but the- Erie travel was afterward 
ied to the metropolis through another 
terminus at Jersey City, and so Irvington 
IS little more than a railway station to 
this day. 

Dearman was rechristened Irvington, 
in honor of the late Washington Irving, 
(vhose unique little cottage of Simnyside 
is close by, upon the margin of the river, 
iiidden from the eye of the traveller only 
by the dense growth of the surrounding 
trees and shrubbery. It is a pretty stone 
lottage, the eastern side embowered in 
ivy, the earlier slips of which were pre- 
3ented to Irving by Sir Walter Scott, 
Lit Abbotsford, and were planted by 
[rvhig himself. Picrmont, on the op- 
34 



posite (western) shore, is the freight ter- 
minus of the Erie Railway. Tlie river is 
here three miles wide, and forms what is 
known as the Tapjian Zee. The pier 
projects into the river a distance of one 
mile, and marks the northern boundary 
of New Jersey. The view of the river at 
this point presents a fine picture. 

Cedar Hill Cottage, the residence of 
Mr. Lewis Gaylord Clark, crowns an 
eminence near Piermont. The house v^as 
originally built by one Woolfert Acker, 
an original New Yorker, who inscribed 
over his door his Dutch motto, "Just in 
Rust." It was thence called " Wool- 
fert's Rust," since corrupted into " Wool- 
fert's Roost." Between Irvington and 
Dobb's Ferry is JS'evis, once the home- 
stead of Col. James Hamilton. It con- 
tains many reminiscences of Hamilton, 
among which is Washington's last por- 
trait, by Stuart. The residences of Mr. 
Williams, Mr. Jaffray, and Mr. Cottinet, 
in this neighborhood, are much admired. 

Three miles out of Piermont is the old 
town of Tappan, interesting as having 
been one of the chief of Washington's 
headquarters during the Revolution, and 
as the spot also where Major Andre was 
imprisoned and executed. The home of 
the Cominandev-in-Chief and the jail' of 
the ill-fated ofBcer are still in good pres- 
ervation, though the latter house has 
been somewhat modified in its interior 
arrangements of late years, to suit its 
present occupancy as a tavern, under the 
style and title of the " 'Seventy-six Stone- 
House." The old Dutch church in which 
Andre was tried, stood near by, but it 
was torn down in 1836, and a new struc- 
ture reared upon its site. The spot 
where the execution took place (October 
2, 1*780) is within a short walk of the 
Old Slone-House in which the prisoner 
was confined. 

Nyack, once famous for its quar- 
ries of red sandstone, is on the west side 
of the river, above Piermont . Oak Hill 
Cemetery is a pretty spot, in view from 
the river. 

'Tax*ryto"vni, 26 miles from New 
York, is a prosperous little town on 
the eastern bank of the Hudson, con- 
nected with Nyack by ferry. It has 
many attractions, historical, pictorial, and 
social ; elegant villas, chiefly occupied 



Sing Sing.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Croson Point. 



by New York gentlemen, having gathered 
thickly around it, as about all th^s part 
of the river's marge, within the past few 
years. A short distance up Mill River is 
the quiet little valley of Sleepy Holhvj, 
the scene of some of Ii-ving's happiest 
fancies. OarPts Ifill and the bridge over 
the^ brook are still standing. The 
principal objects of interest in the 
village are those connected, with Irving's 
life and memory, the Old Dutch Church, 
jaud near by St. ]i[ark''s, better known 
as the Memorial Church, the corner- 
stone of which was laid July 4, 1866. 
It stands on Broadway, where Ichabod 
Crane, the village schoolmaster, encoun- 
tered the " headless horseman," and 
but a few yards from the spot where 
Andre was captured. It is in contem- 
plation to place a marble statue of Irving 
jn the vestibule of the church. 
j During the Revolution, Tarrytown wit- 
nessed many stormy fights between those 
lawless and marauding bands of both 
British and Americans, known as "Skin- 
aers " and " Cowboys." It was upon a 
;pot, now in the heart of Tarrytown, that 
Major Andre was arrested, while return- 
ng to the British Unes, after a visit to 
■fieueral Arnold. A simple monument — 
m obelisk of granite — now marks the 
pot, his remains having been removed 
Westminster Abbey in 1821. At 
xreenshurg, three miles east of Tarry- 
.Qwn, is a monument to Isaac Van Wart, 
me of the captors, who died in 1828. 

Siiag' Simg'^ 33 miles. — Hotels, 
American House. — Sing Sing is on the 
ight banli, and in its acclivitous to- 
)ography, upon a slope of 200 feet, it 
nalics a fine appearance from the water. 
The greatest breadth of .the Hudson, 
learly four miles, is at this point. Many 
ine country seats crown the heights of 
|his pleasant village. It is distinguished 
'or its educational establishments ; for its 
icinage to the mouth of the Croton 
liver, from whence the city of New York 
icrives its abundant supply of water ; and 
»r being the seat of Ihe State Prison 
Mount Pleasant). The name is derived 
I'om an Indian word, meaning " Strong 
'lace." A fire occurred Sept. 7, 1866. 

The Croton enters the Hudson two 
liles above the village, where its artifi- 
ial passage to the metropolis is begun. 



The great aqueduct at this point is espe- 
cially interesting, being carried over the 
Sing Sing Hill by an arch of stone ma- 
sonry 88 feet between the abutments, and 
100 feet above the water. It was conv 
menced in 1835, and the entire work com- 
pleted in 1842, at a cost of $14,000,000. 
(See Haklem Railway.) 

The State Prison, which no visitor 
should fail to see, is located on the 
banks of the Hudson, nearly three-quar- 
ters of a mile south of the village. The 
buildings are large structures, erectea 
by the convicts themselves^ with mate- 
rial fi'om the marble and liniestone quar- 
ries which abound here, and which 
many of them are continually employed 
in working. The prisons form three 
sides of a square. The main edifice 
is 484 feet long, 44 feet wide, and five 
stories higli, with cells for 1,000 o»gu- 
pants, 869 of which were filled in 1852. 
In 1861 over 1,300 were confined here. 
The female prisoners are lodged in a fine 
edifice, some 30 or 40 rods east of the 
male department The prisoner's are 
guarded by sentinels, instead of being 
inclosed by walls. The whole area 
covered by the establishment is about 
130 acres. The railway passes tkrough 
and beneath the prisons, but from the 
river they are seen to advantage. 

Ci°©t©ii. ( Teller'' s) l^oim*-, a promi- 
nent headland dividing Haverstraw Bay 
from the Tappan Zee, four miles above 
Sing Sing, is notewoi'thy for its famous 
lake whicli supplies the metropolis with 
water. The dam is 250 feet long, 40 feet 
high, and YO feet thick at the base. The 
capacity of the lake is 500,000,000 gal- 
lons, and it discharges 40,000,000 to 
60,000,000 daily. 

Tea-drieteg'es' Mooli, opposite 
Sing Sing, is a commanding height, with 
such a deceptive appearanee, viewed from 
the river above and below, of a grand 
headland, that it has been christened 
Point-no-Point. Upon this mountain 
suiBmit lies PocHand Lake. It is about 
four miles in circumference, and forms 
the source of the Hackensack River, 
which flows parallel with the Hudson. 
Though not more than a mile from the 
Hudson, it is yet 200 feet above it. The 
ice from this lake is highly esteemed in 
New York, whither it is annually shipped. 
35 



Peekskill.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Caldwell's Landing. 



Havemtraw, 36 miles, is also on the 
west side, one mile from the river. It is 
a pleasant and prosperous place, with 
attractive scenery. 

VerplancFs Point, on the east side, 
is the spot at which Hendrick Hudson's 
ship, the Half Moon, first came to anchor 
after leaving the mouth of the river. 
Three miles above is Stony Point, the site 
of a fort during the Revolution. This fort 
was stormed and carried by General 
Wayne, July 16, 111^. The present light- 
house and bell-tower mark the site of the 
magazine of the old fort, and being objects 
of much interest, are always pointed out. 
Half way between the Point and Haver- 
straw may still be seen the house where 
Arnold and Andre met and consulted. 
It is of stone, with a piazza in front, and 
stands on the hill-side beyond the flats. 
The creek which winds through the 
marsh, south of Verplanck's Point, as 
afterward the peninsula itself, was called 
Meahagh by the Indians. Stephen Van 
Cortland purchased it of them in 1683, 
and it passed from his possession into 
that of his son, whose only daughter and 
heiress married Philip Verplanck, from 
whom its present name. Topographically, 
Verplanck's Point may be described as a 
peninsula, gradually rising from a gentle 
surface, until it terminates in the river in 
a bold bluff of from 40 to 50 feet eleva- 
tion. A small fortification, called Fort 
Fayette, once existed at the western ex- 
tremity of Verplanck's Point, many re- 
mains of which are yet distinctly visible. 
This fort, and that of Stony Point oppo- 
site, were taken by the English under Sir 
Henry Chnton, June 1, 1779. 

I^eelisliill, 42 miles, is one of the 
most interesting places on the Hudson. 
It is near the mouth of the Peekskill or 
Annsville Creek, which enters the Hud- 
son a short distance above. The town 
was settled by John Peek, in 1764, an 
early Dutch navigator of the Hudson, 
who, as popular tradition runs, mistaking 
this ci-eek for a continuation of the main 
stream, ran his boat ashore, and com- 
menced the future town. Population 
3,000. In the Cortlandville Cemetery 
two miles north of the village, is a marble 
monument to John Paulding. 

Pursuing owv voyage up river, we now 
enter Haverstraw Bay, the second of the 
36 



great extensions of the Hudson, and the 
commencement of the magnificent scenery 
of the Highlands. On our loft rises the 
rugged front of the Dunderhcrg Moun- 
tain, at whose base the little hamlet and 
landing of Caldwell are nestled ; on the 
right, the village of Peekskill ascends 
from the shore to the lofty hill summit, 
and before us is the narrow passage of 
the river, around the point of the Dunder- 
borg, the grand base of AntJiony^s None, 
and other mountain cliffs and precipices. 
From Gallows Hill or Treason Hill (so 
called in remembrance of the execution 
there of the spy Palmer, in the days of 
the Revolution) northward, a grand pan- 
orama is exhibited. Here, to the west, 
overlooking the village, the river, and its 
mountain shores; there, southward, hill 
and valley, as far as the high gi'ounds of 
Tarrytown below; and above, the Cano- 
pus Valley, in the shadow of the High- 
land precipices. The division of the 
American army under Putnam, in 1777, 
was encamped upon Gallows Hill. Be- 
neath this lofty ground, and upon the 
banks of Canopus Creek, is Continental 
Village, destroyed by General Tryon (Oc- 
tober 9, 1777), together with the bar- 
racks, public stores, and many cattle. 

The Van Cortland House, in the vi- 
cinity, is an object of interest, as the an- 
cient seat of an ancient family, and as the 
temporary residence of Washington. Near 
by is a venerable church, erected in 1767, 
within whose graveyard there is a monu- 
ment to the memory of John Paulding, 
one of the captors of Major Andre. A 
pleasant ride from Peekskill is to Lake 
Mahopac, a fashionable summer resort 
for the pleasure-seekers of New Yoi*k. 
(See Index.) 

Calcl-^tvell's S^E^nding'. at the 
foot of Dunderberg Mountain, three miles 
above Stony Point, was long a calling- 
place for the river steamers. The pas- 
sengers for Peekskill, opposite, were then 
always landed at Caldwell. This spot is 
memorable for the search so seriously 
and actively made for the treasure which 
the famous pirate Captain Kidd was sup- 
posed to have secreted at the bottom of 
the river here. Remains of the apparatus 
used for this purpose are still seen, in 
bold, black relief, at the Dunderberg 
Point, as the boat rounds it, toward the 



The Highlands.] 



NEW YORK. 



[West Point. 



Horse-Race. This Quixotic exploration 
has at least proved to a certainty that 
much valuable treasure now lies buried 
here, however uncertain the matter was 
before ! At PeekskiJl the river makes a 
sudden turn to the west, which is called 
the race. From this point to Newburg 
the scenery is very fine. 

The Highlands. — This grand mountain- 
group, through which the Hudson now 
makes its way, extends from northeast to 
southwest, over an area of about 16 by 
25 miles. The landscape which these 
noble heights and their picturesque and 
changeful forms present is of unrivalled 
magnificence and beauty, whether seen 
from their rugged summits or from the 
river gorges. 

Thus says Theodore Fay of these 
scenes : 

" By wooded bluff we steal, by leaning lawn, 
By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise 
At every turn the vision breal^s upon. 
Till to our wondei'ing and uplifted eyes 
The Highland rocks and hills in solemn 
grandeur rise. 

" Nor cloiids in heaven, nor billows in the deep 
More graceful shapes did ever heave or roll ; 
Nor came such pictures to a painter's sleep. 
Nor beamed such vision on a poet's soul I 
The pent-up flood, impatient of control, 
In ages past here broke its granite boand. 
Then to the sea in broad meanders stole. 
While ponderous ruin strewed the broken 

ground. 
And these gigantic hills for ever closed 

around." 

Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory 
on our right, which rises to the height of 
1,128 feet, the base of which has been 
tunnelled by the railway a length of 200 
feet. Two miles above is Sugar Loaf 
Mountain, with an elevation of 865 feet. 
Near by, and reaching far out into the 
river, is a sandy bluif, on which Fort In- 
dependence once stood. Further on is 
Beverly Island, and in the extreme dis- 
tance Bear Mountain. Forts Clinton 
and Montgomery, taken by the British 
troops, after traversing the Dunderberg 
mountain, are in this vicinity ; and so, 
too, a little lake called Skinnipink or 
Bloody Pond, where a disastrous skirmish 
occurred on the eve of the capture of the 
forts, and the consequent opening to the 
enemy of the passage to the Highlands. 
On this (the west) side of the river, the 
Buttermilk Falls are seen descending 



over inclined ledges, a distance of 100 
feet. 

In the heart of the Highland pass, and 
just below West Point, on the west bank, 
is Cozzens\ a spacious and elegant sum- 
mer hotel, which comes most charmingly 
into the pictures of the vicinity. It is 
accessible, as is West Point, at the same 
time, from the railway on the opposite side 
of the river, by a steam feny from Gar- 
rison's Station (51 miles from New York) 
between Peeksliill below and Cold Spring 
above. The concourse of sail sometimes 
windlocked in the angles of this moun- 
tain-pass present a novel sight. 

Constitution Island, with the rocky 
plateau of West Point, now bars our 
view of the upper portion of the 
Highland passage. Rounding it, we come 
into that wonderful reach of the river, 
flanked on the west by Cro''nest and But- 
ter Hill, or Storm King, and on the east, 
by the jagged acclivities of Breakneck 
and Bull Hill, with the pretty village of 
Cold Spring beneath. Constitution Isl- 
and, called, prior to the Revolution, Mar- 
telear's Rock, was fortified, together with 
West Point, in l'7'75-"76. The remains 
of the magazines and other portions of 
the fort are still standing. 

"^^est ff^oisat. — Hotels, The West 
Point (Roe's), on the terrace, and Cox- 
zeals' below. 

West Point (51 miles), as well on ac- 
count of its famous military school and 
historical associations, as for its varied and 
unique scenic attractions, is one of the 
most charming places on the Hudson. 
The hotels, though well kept, are not 
large, and those intending to make a stay 
there, en route to or from New York, 
would do well to order rooms in advance. 
Cozzens' was first opened in 1849, since 
which time the late Lieutenant-General 
Scott was accustomed to make it his 
summer headquarters. The best months 
in which to visit West Point ai-e July 
and August — not only for viewing the 
river scenery, which is extremely luxuri- 
ant at that season, but on account of the 
military exercises, better known as " exhi- 
bitions," in which all the cadets join. 

Tlie United States Military Academy^ 
established in 1802, will first attract the 
visitor's attention. The buildings em- 
brace the barracks, with accommodation 



^^EST Point.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Cro'nest. 



)v 250 cadets; a large stone building 
3r military exercises, a laboratory, obser- 
atory, chapel, hospital, rcess-room, and 
fficers' ([uarters. The academy is of 
tone, 275 feet long by '75 feet wide, and 
bree stories high. The land belonging 
the academy or post, 250 acres in es- 
cnt, was ceded by New York to the Gen- 
ral Government in 1826. Among the 
-bjects of interest to be seen in and 
round the academy buildings ai-e some 
evolutionary relics and cannon captured 
11 the Mexican war, and a brass mortar 
aken from the British at Stony Point. 
The cliapd is an interesting edifice, ren- 
lered still more so by the associations 
onnecting it v.'ith the recent demise and 
ibsequies of Lieutenaut-Geueral Scott, 
rho died at West Point, May 29, 1866. 
.'he Parade- Ground, on band afternoons, 
ffords a characteristic and striking 
)hase of West Point life. 

Kosciusl'd's Garden and Monmnent are 
•n the river bank near the parade-ground. 
Phe walk thither, overhung with trees 
md shrubbery, is known as Flirtation 
Walk. The monument is of white marble. 
;t was erected by the corps of cadets m 
.828, and cost $5,000. Near Kosciusko's 
::arden is a fine spring, said to have been 
liscovered by Kosciusko himself, with 
leats for visitors. The remains of Ports 
Clinton, PutnTim, Webb, and Wyllys, are 
lometimes visited. From the ruins of 
:'utnam, on Mount Independence, 600 
eet above the river, a view is obtained 
vhich will well repay the labor of reach- 
ng it. The visitor will delight his eye 
it all points, whether he gaze upon the 
iuperb panorama of the river as he sits 
ipon the piazza of the hotel upon the pla- 
teau, or as he looks upon the scene from 
the yet loftier eminence above, crowned 
by the ruins of ancient fortresses ; or 
strolls amidst the interlacing walks, with 
aew vistas of beauty and fresh memories 
[)f a gallant gone-by at every turn and 
step. A mile north of West Point is the 
celebrated foundery of P. P. Parrott, the 
inventor of the Parrott gun. 

The JRobinsoti or Beverly Souse, oc- 
cupied by Arnold at the time of his 
meditated treason, and whence he made 
his escape to a British vessel, the 
"Vulture," lying near by in the river, is 
on the opposite (east) bank, at the foot 
38 



of Sugar-Loaf Mountain, a pleasant drive 
of font or five miles south from Cold 
Spring. It has been since known as Ar- 
denia Cold Spring, and is two miles north 
of Garrison's Station, on the Hudson 
River Railway. It has large foundcries 
and machine-shops. 

Cro^ncst casts its broad shadow upon 
us as we continue our voyage up from 
West Point. This is one of the highest 
mountains found in the Highland group. 
Its height is 1,428 feet. 

The poet Morris has happily sung the 
beauties of these bold cliffs : 

" Where Hudson's waves o'er silvery sands 
"Wind through the hills afar, 
And Cro'nest lilce a monarch stands, 
Crowned with a single star." 

Cro'nest is the scene of Rodman Drake's 
poem of " The Culprit Fay." 

This picturesque height, viewed from 
the deck of the steamer on a clear sum- 
mer's night, will vividly recall to the 
traveller's mind those lines of the poet : 

" 'Tis the middle watch of a summer's night, — 
The earth is dar'u, but the heavens are bright; 
Naught is seen in the vault on high, 
But the moon, and tha stars, and the clond- 

leES sky. 
And the flood which rolls its milky hue, — 
A river of light on the welkin blue. 
The moon loots down on old Crow Nest, 
She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast, 
And seems his huge gray form to throw 
In a silver cone on the wave below ; 
His sides are broken by spots of shade. 
By the walnut-boughs and the cedar made. 
And through their clustering branches dark 
Glimmers and dies the firefly's spark. 
Like starry twinkles that momently break 
Through the rifts of the gathering tempest 

rack." 

Butter Hill (" Boterberg ") is the next 
mountain crest, and the last of the High- 
land range upon the west. It is 1,529 
feet high. 

Between Cro'nest and Butter Hill, and 
in the laps of both, is a lovely valley, re- 
plete with forest and brook beauties, 
called Tempe. 

Cold Sprinff and " JJndercIif." — Cold 
Spring is one of the most picturesque 
of the villages of the Hudson, whether 
seen from the water or from the hills 
behind, or' in detail amidst its little 
streets and villa homes. It is built upon 
a steep ascent, and behind it is the mas- 



i 



Newburg.] 



NEW YORK. 



[POTJGHKEEPSIE. 



sive grauite crown of Bull Hill. This 
noble mountain overshadows the beauti- 
ful terrace upon which the late lamented 
poet Morris lived in the rural seclusion 
of " TJndercliff " for many years. It is 
scarcely possible to find a spot of sweeter 
natural attractions than the site of Un- 
dercliff, looking over the pretty village 
to the castellated hills of West Point, 
across the blue Hudson to old Cro'nest, 
or northward beyond the Newburg Bay, 
to the far away ranges of the Kuatskill. 

Beyond Cold Spring, and still on the 
cast bank of the river, the Highland 
range is continued in the jagged preci- 
pices, of the Breakneck and Beacon Hills, 
in height, respectively, I.ISY and 1,685 
feet. These mountains are among the 
most commanding features of the river 
scenery. 

Cornivall Landing is a rugged and pic- 
jturesque little place, on the west bank. 
'Back from the landing is the pleasant 
ivillage of Ganierbvrv. 

""lcllovild.9"' Mr.^Willis's roman- 
itic home, occupies a lofty plateau above, 
and north of the village. It is easily 
reached by either the Newburg or Corn- 
iwall road. 

New Windsor, between " Idlewild " and 
Newburg, and once the rival of the lat- 
ter, is a straggling hamlet of Revolution- 
ry memory. Washington established 
his headquarters at New Windsor, June 
23, 1'7'79, and again in IV8O. His resi- 
,dence, a plain Dutch house, has long 
isince passed away, as has also the famous 
!" TemjDle of Virtue." At Moodna, two 
miles back of the landing, is a large paper- 
mill. Flum Point, on the west side, has 
some residences. 

Between New Windsor and Newburg 
5s Cedar Lawn, the homestead of the 
^Rev. J. T. Headley. 

i j^ewl»ii.i*g', with a population of 
lear 15,000, and its social and topo- 
graphical attractions, is one of the 
argest and most delightful towns on the 
3udson. Eising, as it does, rather pre- 
;ipitously from the water to an elevation 
)f 800 feet, it presents a very imposing 
ront to the voyager. The higher grounds 
ire occupied by beautiful residences and 
illas. The place was originally settled 
)y emigrant Palatines in 1*798. It has 
mmediate railway communication west- 



ward up the Quassic Creek, via Ches- 
ter (20 miles), by the Newburg branch 
of the Erie Railway. It is a place 
of considerable trade, and has some 
extensive manufactories. The home of 
the lamented landscape gardener and 
horticultural writer. Downing, was here. 
Newburg was the theatre of many inter- 
esting events in the war of the Revo- 
lution. Wccs7iinfffo?i's Headquarters, an 
old gray stone mansion, built by Mr. 
Hasbrouck, in 1*750, stand a short dis- 
tance south of the village. It was here the 
Revolutionary army was finally disbanded 
at the close of the war, June 23, 1*783. 
Apart from the historical interest connect- 
ed with the site, it commands a fine view 
of the great pass of the Highlands. It is 
owned by the State. The principal hotels 
are the Poioelion and Orange. The Whar- 
ton House was used during the Revolu- 
tion as a barracks. Many of the scenes 
in Cooper's novel of " The Spy " are laid 
in Newburg. 

Fishkill Landing, 60 miles from New 
York, and opposite Newburg ferry, like 
that village and all the region round, 
abounds in natural beauties and elegant 
residences. It is a small place, with a 
population of 1,800. It lies in the lap of 
a lovely, fertile plain, which reaches back 
from the landing to the base of a bold 
mountain range. A portion of the Con- 
tinental army was encamped here. The 
village of Fishkill is situated on a creek 
of the same name, five miles east of the 
river. 

Two miles northeast of Fishkill Land- 
ing is the Verjylanck House, interesting 
as having once been the headquarters of 
Baron Steuben, and the place in which 
the famous Society of the Cincinnati was 
organized in 1*783. Maiteaiuan, a manu- 
facturing point, is about a mile from the 
landing. 

Low Point, three miles above Pishkill 
Landing, is a small river hamlet. 

New Hamburg comes next, near the 
mouth of Wappinger's Creek, and a little 
north is the village of Marlborough, with 
Barnegat, famous for its lime-kilns, two 
miles yet beyond. 

S?oaag-Iilceepsie, '75 miles, is one 

of the largest towns between New York 

and Albany. Its population is 1*7,000. It 

contains about 20 churches, four banks, 

39 



Kingston.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Kaatskill Mountains. 



and three or four newspapers. It lias a 
variety of manuiactories ; and the rich 
agricultural region behind it makes it the 
depot of a busy trade. College Hill, the 
site of the collegiate institution, half a 
mile northeast, is a commanding eleva- 
tion, overlooking the river and the re- 
gion around. 

Poughkecpsie was foimded by the 
Dutch in 1705. It is symmetrically built 
upon an elevated plain half a mile east of 
the river. It has no historical associa- 
tions of especial interest. Professor 
Morse, the inventor of the electric tele- 
graph, and Benson J. Lossing, author of 
the " Field Book of the Revolution," re- 
side here. The Gregory House and the 
Exchange are the leading hotels. 

JSfeiv Paltz Landing, on the opposite 
side of the river, is reached by ferry. 

Hyde Parl% 80 miles above New York, 
is a quiet Httle village on the east side of 
the river, in the midst of a country of 
great fertility, and thronged with wealthy 
homesteads and sumptuous villas. It is 
named after Sir Edmund Hyde, Lord 
Cornbury, one of the early provincial 
governors. Placentia, once the home of 
Paulding, is near by, and commands a 
magnificent view of the river windings 
far above, even to the peaks of the dis- 
tant Kaatskills. Staatshurg is upon, the 
railvray, five miles above. 

l£oii(loi8.t, near the mouth of Ron- 
dout Creek, is the terminus of the Dela- 
ware and Hudson Canal, and connects 
with Rhinebeck by ferry. It has extensive 
manufactories of cement, and a popula- 
tion of 7,500, chiefly Germans and Irish. 
Miiig'Stosi, two miles above Ron- 
dout, is a thriving and pleasant place. It 
was settled by the Dutch (1663), about 
the time of the settlement of Albany and 
New York. It was burnt by the British 
(1777). The first Constitution of New 
York was framed and adopted in a house 
still standing here. It was the birth- 
place of Vanderlyn the painter. He died 
here in 1853. 

Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New 
York, is on the railway opposite Kmgs- 
ton, and is connected with that village by 
a fcri-y. The river presents some attrac- 
tive views at this point. The village of 
Ehhiehcch is two miles back from the 
landing. It was founded by William 
40 



Beckman in 1047. The BccJcman House 
is one of the best specimens of an old 
Dutch homestead to be found in the val- 
ley of the Hudson. The Exchange Hotel 
has accommodation for visitors. 

Saugeriiea and Tivoli, the one on the 
west and the other on the east bank of 
the river, next attract our attention. 
Saugerties is a picturesque and pros- 
perous manufacturing village, at the 
dihoucli'e of the beautiful waters of 
Esopus Creek. Bokeby, the estate of 
Wm. B. Astor, Esq., is a short distance 
south of Barrytown. Between Barrytown 
and Tivoli are Anncmdale and Montgomery 
Place, the seats of Jolm Bard and Edsvard 
Livingston. 

Passing Maiden, on the left and Ger- 
mantoion on the right bank, we reach 
Oakhill Station, the point of departure 
on the Hudson River Railway for Kaats- 
kill. Opposite Maiden stands Clermont, 
the seat of the Jate Chancellor Livings- 
ton. 

Kaatskill, or Catskill, lies at the mouth 
of the Kaatskill Creek, on the west banV 
of the Hudson. The site of the town i 
somewhat elevated, and commands e ■ 
tensive views of the river and distant 
hills. The banks of the creek abound 
in varied and attractive scenery, and are 
annually the resort of city artists, bent 
on obtaining fresh studies. Here the 
lamented Cole painted his " Course of 
Empire" and "Voyage of Life." Here, 
too, Charles Moore "resides; and Thomas 
Nast, the spirited artist of "Harper's 
Weekly," and others, have also taken up 
a temporary residence in the village. The 
Hudson River House, by J. T. Huntley, 
affords excellent accommodation for those 
visiting Kaatskill village. The Catskill 
Hoiosc, opposite the stage-office, is also a 
well-kept house. 

TSE KAATSKILL MOUNTAIN'S. 

To reach the Kaatskills from New York 
we will follow our previous routes up the 
Hudson to the village of Kaatskill (111 
miles), or the railway to Oakhill Station 
opposite, crossing thence to Kaatskill by 
ferry. Time from New York to the Moun- 
tain" House eight to nine hours. Immediate 
connection between the landing and the 



? 



Kaatskill Mountains.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Kaaterskill Falls. 



moimtains by Beach's stage line. Fare, 
, The Kaatskills are a part of the great 
Appalachian chain, which extends through 
the eastern portion of the Union from 
Canada to the Gulf of Mexico. Their 
chief ranges follow the course of the Hud- 
son River for 20 to 30 miles, lying west 
of it, and separated by a valley stretch 
of 10 to 12 miles. These peaks lend to 
the landscape of that pai't of the Hudson 
from which they are visible its greatest 
charm. 2'he Mountain House is reached 
by a pleasant stage-coach ride, wliich 
usually occupies tliree hours. Mooni's 
Half-way House affords refreshment for 
stage passengers. Two miles from the 
summit the coach stops at Sleepy Hol- 
low, a spot usually conceded to be the 
site of Rip Van Winkle's famous nap. 
Here a house of refreshment has recently 
been built ; it is known as the " Rip Van 
Winkle House," and is kept by Mr. Ira 
Saxe. The Mounicmi Rouse is an excel- 
lent one, combining all the comforts and 
many of the luxuries of more pretentious 
testabhshments. Its original cost was 
20,000, and it has been repeatedly en- 
larged and improved. Charles L. Beach 
is the proprietor. The last three miles 
of the journey to the hotel is up the sic^e 
pf the mountain, made easy by a good 
.winding way. Jfoses Hock. — The path 
leading to this retired spot is passed on 
the left of the road, a short distance 
south of the hotel. A most superb view 
is had from the piazza of the Hudson 
River and valley, and of the mountain 
ranges of New England in the distance. 
Sunrise on the Catskills, as seen from the 
Mountain House, has been thus poetically 
described by an old Knickerbocker con- 
tributor : 



I' Then rouse ye up its kind approach to greet. 
With sunrise on the mountain-tops, and stay 
Fo mark how all that's glorious, lair, and sweet, 
Coraes forth revealed by the bright god of 
nay ; 
Vnd r.s upon the magic scone yon gaze, 
It seems His own creation strikes you with 
amaze. 

\.s we from this proud height the earth behold, 
Ushered into his presence ; and the flash 

)f his first beams, reveals an outline bold. 
The distant hills imprinted at one dash, 

n dark relief upon the glowing sky, 
To fade there through each shade o Uue 
Mil evening die. 



In favorable weather the cities of Albany 
and Troy can be seen with the aid of a 
good glass. 

North Mountain furnishes a pleasant 
ramble for the visitor at the Mountain 
House ; the best view .is obtained from 
Table Rock, three-quarters of a mile 
north of the hotel. Soiith Mountain is 
another favorite ramble, commanding a 
view of the Kaaterskill Pass. The Two 
Lakes, north and south, are reached n a 
short stroll from the hotel, being on the 
direct road to the falls. They afford 
good fishing. 

The Kaaterskill or High Falls are 
two miles west of the Mountain House, 
easily reached by stage, or boat on the 
lake. The Laurel House commands an 
excellent view of the falls, and of 
Round Top and High Peak, in the 
immediate neighborhood. The descent 
of the first cascade is 180 feet, and 
of the second 80 feet; below these is 
another fall of 40 feet, making the to- 
tal descent 300 feet. The Kaaterskill 
has a devious and rapid course of eight 
miles to the Kaatskill, near the village. 
To see the falls to the best advantage, 
the visitor should descend the winding 
stairs leading from the platform of the 
hotel, and spend an hour or two in ex- 
ploring the gorge and glen below. Re- 
freshments, if desired, can be supplied 
from the dizzy height by means of bas- 
ket and rope. Mr. Scutt, the proprietor 
of the falls, resides at the Laurel House, 
and personally provides for the wants of 
visitors. Guides to the falls and to the 
neighboring Cloves are furnished at the 
Laurel House ; a charge of 25 cents is 
made to each passenger for showing the 
falls. Livery can also be obtained at 
reasonable prices. 

Fenimore Cooper, in his story of " The 
Pioneer," thus describes these cascades : 
" The water comes croaking and wind- 
ing among the rocks, first, so slow that 
a trout might swim in it, then starting 
and running like any creature that 
wanted to make a fair spring, till it 
gets to where the mountain divides 
like the cleft foot of a deer, leaving 
a deep hollow for the brook to tumble 
into. The first pitch is nigh 200 feet, 
and the water looks like flakes of snow 
before it touches the bottom, and then 
41 



Kaaterskill Falls.] 



NEW YORK. 



[IICDSON. 



gathers itself together again for a new 
start ; and may be flutters over 50 feet 
of Hat rock before it i'alls for another 100 
feet, wlien it jumps from shelf to shelf, 
first running tliis way and that way, 
striving to get out of the hollow, till it 
finally "gets to the plain." This branch 
of the Kaaterskill comes from the waters 
of the two lakes on the plateau above ; 
and, as the supply has to be economized 
in order that the cascades may look their 
best when they have company, the 
stream is dammed, and the flood is let on 
at proper times only. We have now 
peeped at all the usual " sights " of the 
region ; but there are other chapters of 
beauty, perhaps, yet more inviting. Let 
the tourist, if he be adventurous and is a 
true lover of Nature, follow the brook 
down from the base of the cataracts we 
have just described, into the principal 
clove; then let him ascend the m.ain 
stream for a mile over huge boulders, 
through rank woods, and many by-cas- 
cades, which, if smaller, are still more 
picturesque than those "nominated in 
the bond ; " or, let him descend the 
creek two miles, sometimes by the edge 
of the bed of the waters, and when that 
is impracticable, by the turii-pike road, 
which traverses the great clove or pass. 
At every turn and step there will be a 
new picture — sometimes a iinique rapid 
or fall, sometimes a soaring mountain 
cliff, sometimes a rude bridge across the 
foaming torrent, sometimes a little hut 
or cottage, and, at last, as he comes out 
toward the valley on the east, the humble 
village of Palenville. This portion of 
the Kaatskills is that most preferred by 
artists for study, and the inns at Palen- 
ville are often occupied by them, though 
they offer but little inducement to the 
ease and comfort loving tourist to tarry. 

Another nice excursion from the 
Mountain House is a ride along the ridge 
five or six miles, to the entrance of the 
Stony Clove (Bear's Gap), and thence 
through the wilderness of this fine pass. 
The Mountcdn Home^ at Tannersville, by 
Gray and Mulford, is a desirable stop- 
ping-place for visitors to this region. 

High Peak, the most elevated of the 

Kaatskill summits, towering 4,000 feet 

high, should certainly be climbed, in order 

to see the region fairly. It is six miles 

42 



west of the Mountain House, is a long 
and toilsome journey for many, but it 
well repays for the labor of reaching it. 
The Mountain House, seen from High 
Peak, looks like a pigmy in the vale. 

Plmdirlill Clove is another grand pass 
on the hills, five miles below the Kaat- 
ci'skill passage. A mountain torrent, 
full of beauties in glen, and rock, and 
cascade, winds through it. The touiis't 
here will recall Bryant's lines : 

" Midst greens and shades the Katterskill leaps 
From cliffs where the wood-J3ower clings ; 

All summer he moistens his verdant steeps 
With the light spray of the mountain springs ; 

And he shakes the woods on the mf untain side, 

"When they drip with the rains of the autumn 
tide. 

" But when, in the forest bare and <»ld. 

The blast of December calls, 
He builds in the starlight, clear and cold, 

A palace of ice where his torrent falls. 
With turret, and arch, and fretwotk fair, 
A.nd pillars clear as the summer air. " 

Mr. T. Addison Eichards, tlie artist, thus 
writes of the winter aspect of these falls : 
"The cataracts of the Catskills in win- 
ter, when the spray is frozen into a myr- 
iad fantastic forms, all glowing like the 
prism, as the clear cold sanhght reveals 
these mystical wonders, is a sight so 
g'rand and novel as to w.ll repay the ex- 
posure and fatigue of a visit thither 
through bleak January's snows and ice." 

To visit the Kaatskills comfortably, 
three days will suffice for the joui'ney 
thence by rail from New York, for the 
stay and the return to the city. Not less 
than four, however, ought to be thus in- 
vested, if one would make sure of a satis- 
factory dividend ; and if a week is at 
command, so much the happier he who 
commanfjs it. 

M TO «I s © m . — Hotels, llie IRidson 
House, North Hovse. — Passing Moiint 
Merino, about four miles above Kaatskill, 
the city of Hudson, 115 miles from' New 
York, is next reached. It was settled in 
1784, by Quakers from New England. 
The main street (Warren), which runs 
through the heart of the city from east 
to west, terminates at the river extrem- 
ity in a pleasant little park called Frome- 
TMde Hill, on a bold promontory, rising 
abruptly 60 feet above the water ; while 
the other terminus climbs to the foot of 
Prospect Hill, an elevation of 200 feet. 



Athens.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Albany. 



From these heights the views of the Kaats- 
kills, on the opposite side of the Hudson 
River, and of the river and city of Hud- 
son, are incomparably fine. It is at the 
head of sloop navigation on the river. It 
contains a fine court-house of marble, 
several elegant church edifices, and a 
Female Seminary, which occupies the for- 
mer Lunatic Asylum. It is the terminus 
of the Hudson and Boston Railway. 
Population, 12,000. 

New Lebanon Springs have fine me- 
dicinal properties, and are much resorted 
to during the summer months. The route 
thither from Hudson is by the Hudson 
and Boston Railroad to Canaan, and 
thence by stage. The manufacture of 
thermometers and barometers is exten- 
sively carried on here. Columbia Hall 
is the best hotel. The Shaker Village, 
with its unique features of social life, is 
woi'th visiting. The settlement is two 
miles from the Springs, and is situated in 
a charming valley, richly skirted l^y 
woods. The Herbery for the vegetable 
curing process, in which the Shakers are 
so proficient, and many of the farms, are 
well- worth the attention of strangers. 
(See Lebanon Springs.) 

Columbia Springs, five miles from Hud- 
son, is a summer resort of great value to 
invalids, and of interest to all. The Clav- 
erack Falls, some eight miles off, should 
not be overlooked by the visitor. 

Athens, is a little village with a pop- 
ulation of 2,000, directly opposite Hud- 
son, and connected with it by a steam 
ferry. 

Stockport and Coxsackie are bustling 
and thriving little places immediately be- 
yond Athens. 

Kinderhook Landing. — The village of 
Kinderhook, about five miles east of the 
landing, on the east side of the river, is 
the birthplace of Martin Van Buren, the 
eighth President of the United States. 
His estate of " Lindenwald," where he 
spent the last years of his life, is situated 
two miles south of the village. New 
Bcdtimore and Coeymans, are now passed 
on the left, and Schodack and CasUeton 
on the right. Two miles below Albany, 
at a place called Remvood, is an immense 
stone dike, built by the government in 
1832, at the cost of a quarter million 
dollars. 



Al'bamy. — Hotels, the Delavan 
House, Stanwix Hall. 

Albany was founded by the Dutch, 
first as a trading-post, on Castle Island, 
directly below the site of the present city, 
in 1614. Fort Orange was built where 
the town now stands, in 16S3 ; and, next 
to Jamestown in Virginia, was the ear- 
liest European settlement in the original 
thirteen States. The town was known 
as Beaver Wyck, and as Williamsiadt, 
before it received its present name in 
honor of James, duke of York and Al- 
bany, afterward James the Second, at 
the period when it fell into British pos- 
session, 1664. It was chartered in 1686, 
and made State capital in 1*798. It is 
divided into 10 wards, and had a popula- 
tion-in 1865 of about 75,000. It has a 
large commerce from its position at 
the head of sloop navigation and tide- 
water upon the Hudson, as the entrepot 
of the great Erie Canal from the west, 
and the Champlain Canal from the north, 
and as the centre to which many routes 
and lines of travel converge. The boats 
of the canal are received in a grand basin 
constructed ia the river, with the help of 
a pier 80 feet wide and 4,300 feet long. 

Albany, seen from some points on the 
river, makes a very fine appearance, the 
ground rising westward from the low 
Hats on the shore to an elevation of 
some 220 feet. State Street ascends in 
a steep grade from the water to the 
height crowned by the State capitol. 
The water-works, built 1852 and '53, at a 
cost of one million dollars, are worth see- 
ing. 

Among the public buildings . are the 
Capitol, the State House, the City Hall, 
the Hospital, the Penitentiary (a model 
prison), the Aims-House, and more than 
50 church edifices. Of the latter, the ca- 
thedral {Immaculate Conception), on Ea- 
gle Street, and the Church of St. Joseph, 
on Ten Broeck Street, corner of Second, 
are the most prominent structures. The 
cathedral has sittings for 4,000. and a 
powerful organ. The stained windows, 
by Gibson, of New York, are among the 
finest specimens of art in the country. 
The Capitol occupies the west side of the 
public square, the State House and 
City Hall the east The latter, com- 
43 



Greenbush.] 



NEW YORK, 



[Trot. 



pleted December, 1 832, is built of marble, 
surmounted by a dome, from which a fine 
view is obtained. ' The State Library, ad- 
joining the Capitol, has upward of 60,000 
volumes. The Dudley Observatory, found- 
ed ))}' the munificence of Mrs. Blandina 
Dudley, was erected at a cost of $25,000, 
and lias been further endowed to the 
amount of $100,000. It stands on Ob- 
servatory Hill, near the northern limits. 
The State Arsenal, on Eagle Street, is a 
large gloomy structure, in the castellated 
style. The ITniversity of Albany was incor- 
porated in 1852. The Law Department 
is now one of the best in the Union. Tlie 
Medical College, which was founded in 
1839, is a prosperous establishment, with 
an extensive Museum. The State Wor- 
med School was organized successfully in 
1844, for " the education and practice of 
teachers of common schools in the sci- 
ence of education and the art of teach- 
ing." The Albany Institute, organized, 
1*791, for scientific advancement, has a 
library of 9,000 vohimes. Admission 
through a member. The Young Men's 
Association, 38 State Street, has a collec- 
tion of 12,000 volumes ; the Apprentices'' 
Library, 5,000. The edifice on State 
Street where are deposited the public 
collections in Natural History, and in 
Geology and in Agriculture, is most in- 
teresting. The OrpJian Asylum and 
other benevolent establishments of this 
city, are well worth the consideration of 
the tourist. The distinguished sculptor, 
E. C. Palmer, resides here. His studio. 
No. 5 Fayette Place, is frequently visited 
by strangers. Portions of the Va7i Rens- 
selaer llansion, built in 1*765, and the 
Sclmyler Jlouse, built on the site of the 
original house in which Peter Schuyler, 
the first mayor of the city, lived, are still 
standing. 

Greenbnsh, the former terminus of the 
Hudson River Railway, is immediately 
opposite. It is now connected with Al- 
bany by bridge. It is incorporated, and 
includes Bath and East Albany. Popula- 
tion, 4,000. 

Trains leave Albany for New York, by 
the Hudson River and Harlem Railways, 
almost hourly ; for the west by the Cen- 
tral, and for Boston by the Western 
(Mass.) Railway, several times each day. 
For Saratoga and the north, one express 
44 



through train leaves early in the morn- 
ing. Day boats down the Hudson at 
V^ A. M., and night boats at 8 p. si. To 
Kaatskill, steamers daily. 

Troy. — Hotels, American Hotel^ 
Mansion House, Troy House. Troy is a 
large and beautiful city of 60,000 inhab- 
itants, including suburban settlements. 
It stands upon both banks of the Hud- 
son, at the mouth of the Poestenkill 
Creek, 151 miles from New York^ and six 
from Albany. It is built upon an allu- 
vial plain, overlooked on the east side by 
the classic heights of Mount Ida, and on 
the north by the barren cliifs of Mount 
Olympus, 200 feet high. These elevated 
points command superb views of the city 
and its charming vicinage, and of the 
great waters of the Hudson. Troy lies 
along the river for the length of three 
miles, and extends back a mile from east 
to west. It boasts many fine churches 
and public buildings, and several hand- 
some private mansions and cottages : 
among the former the Episcopal churches 
of St. Paid and St. John are best worthy 
notice. The Female Seminary, estab- 
lished in 1821, and the Rensselaer Poly- 
technic Listitute, are flourishing institu- 
tions. It has extensive manufactures, 
and enjoys a large and growing trade by 
river and rail. Four main lines of rail- 
way meet at this point, viz. : the Hudson 
River, the Troy and Boston, the Schenec- 
tady and Troy, and the Saratoga and 
Rensselaer roads, which are united in 
one depot by means of the Union (city) 
Railroad. Cars leave Troy for Green- 
bush (six miles) every hour. Stages to 
Albany, Cohoes, Lansingburg, and va- 
rious neighboring points. 

West Troy, a suburb of Troy, on the 
other side of the river, is a rapidly growing 
place. The inhabitants are employed prin- 
cipally in manufactures. A line macad- 
amized road leads from West Troy to Al- 
bany, a distance of six miles. Horse cars 
to Albany every fifteen minutes. The 
Wcdervliet (U. S.) Arsenal, in West 
Troy, has a large and constant supply of 
small-arms, and various munitions of war. 
This is one of the most important of 
the national depots, and is worthy the 
attention of the traveller. It was built 
in 1814, and occupies 100 acres of 
ground. Green Island Village, near 



i 



Route III.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Lake Mahopac. 



West Troy, has an extensive car and 
coach factory. Oakwood and Mount Ida 
Cemeteries are worth visiting. The for- 
mer is in Lansingburg, and occupies a 
beautiful site overlooking the city. 

This route may very profitably be, and 
generally is, extended to Saratoga and 
Lakes Ghamplain and George, and even 
to Montreal ; but these and other points 
en route thither, will be found in their 
appropriate places, on reference to the 
Index. 

ROUTE III. 

NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 
( Via. K Y. & Ilarlem liailroad.) 

This route extends from the heart of 
the city of New York to the State capital, 
skirting in its course the eastern portions 
of all those counties lying upon the Hud- 
son and traversed by the river railway. 
The distance between the termini is 154 
,miles, four miles longer than that of the 
[Hudson River. The stations and towns 
upon the Harlem road are, for the most 
part, inconsiderable places, many of them 
jhaving grown up with the road. The 
country passed through is varied and 
picturesque in surface, and much of it is 
rich agricultural land. It does not com- 
pare with the river route in scenic attrac- 
tions. 

Stations.— Twenty-sixth Street Sta- 
tion; Forty-second Street, 3^ miles ; 
Harlem, 7 ; Mott Haven, 8 ; Melrose, 9 ; 
Morrisania, 10; Tremont, 11; Fordham, 
12; Williams Bridge, 14 (Junction of 
the New York and New Haven Road) ; 
Bronxville, 18; Tuckahoe, 19 ; Scarsdale, 
22; Hart's Corners, 24; White Plains, 
26 ; Kensico, 29 ; Unionville, 31 ; Pleas- 
antville, 34 ; Chapequa, 36 ; Mount Kisco, 
40 ; Bedford, 42 ; Katonah, 45 ; Golden 
Bridge, 4*7; Purdy's, 49; Croton Falls, 
51 ; Brewster's, 55 ; Dykman's, 58 ; Tow- 
Qcr's, 61 ; Paterson's, 63 ; Pawling's, 67 
South Dover, 73 ; Dover Furnace, 76 
Dover Plains, 80 ; Wassaic, 84 ; Amenia 
S8; Sharon Station, 91; Millerton, 96 
Mount Riga, 99 ; Boston Corners, 103 
Copake, 108 ; Hillsdale, 112 ; Bains, 115 
Martindale, 118; Philmont, 122; Ghent, 
128; Chatham Pom' Corners, 131 (Junc- 



tion with railway route from Albany and 
from Hudson for Boston) ; East Albany, 
154 miles, connects with Troy and Green- 
bush Railroad. 

On leaving the city streets, the road 
passes under a considerable extent of 
.tunnelling and continued bridging across 
thoroughfares, and reaches the extremity 
of the island and city of New York at 
Harlem, where it crosses the Harlem 
River into Westchester County. 

White Plains, 26 miles, is interesting 
as the scene of important events in the 
Revolution. An eventful battle was 
fought here, October 28, 1776. A resi- 
dence of Washington (in which are some 
attractive relics) is yet standing in the 
vicinage. 

Croton Falls, 51 miles, upon the river 
which supplies the great Croton Aqueduct 
to the city of New York, are worth see- 
ing. Passengers for Lake Mahopac, five 
miles distant, take stage here. 

JLa^ke Ma^ltopsac. — Hotels, Gre- 
gory's, Baldwiti's, and Thompson's. This 
pleasant summer resort lies in the west- 
ern part of the town of Carmel, Putnam 
County. The lake is nine miles in cir- 
cumference, and is about 1,800 feet above 
the sea. It is one of the principal sources 
of supply to the Croton. Though the 
landscape has no very bold features, and 
but little to detain the artist, yet its quiet 
waters, its pretty wooded islands, the ro- 
mantic resorts in its vicinage, the throngs 
of pleasure-seeking strangers, the boating 
and fishing, and other rural sports, make 
it a most agreeable spot for either a brief 
visit or a long residence. There are many 
attractive locaUties of hill and water 
scenery around Mahopac. The pleasant 
hotels are well filled during the season by 
boarders or by passing guests. It is a 
nice retreat to those whose business in 
the great city below forbids their wander- 
ing far away. 

L'over Plains, 20 miles east of Pough- 
keepsie, and 80 from New York, is sur- 
rounded by much pleasing landscape. 
(For Albany and Troy, and routes thence 
by Hudson River and railways, see In- 
dex.) A pleasant short tour may. be 
made by taking this route to Troy or 
Albany, and returning by the Hudson 
River, visiting the Kaatskills and West 
Point on the way back. From.Albanv 
45 



Saratoga. Springs.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Saratoga. 



the most pleasant and popular route is 
that to Saratoga and neighboring springs 
and the lakes, whieh we shall next give. 



ROUTE IV>, 

ALBANY TO SARATOGA AND LAKE 
GEORGE. 

Via Rensselaer and Saratoga (Conwlidated) 
Railway. 

Stations. — Troy Union Depot ; Green 
Island, 1 mile ; Waterford, 4 ; Albany 
Junction, 6 ; Mechanicsville, 12 ; Ballston, 
25 ; Saratoga, 32 ; Gansevoort, 48 ; Mo- 
reau, 49 ; Fort Edward, 52 ; Dunham's 
Basin, 5*7; Smith's Basin, 61; Fort Anne, 
65; Comstock's Landing, 71; Junction, 
73 ; Lake Champlain Junction, 77 ; Fair- 
haven, 79; Hydeville, 81 ; Castleton, 84; 
West Rutland, 91 ; Rutland, 95. 

BfEllston Spaisupon theKayade- 
rosseros Creek, a small stream which 
flows through the village, 25 miles from 
Troy and 7 miles from Saratoga Springs. 
Its mineral waters, which were discovered 
in 1769, are celebrated for their medicinal 
qualities, although not so popular as they 
were formerly, those of Saratoga being 
now generally preferred. A flourishing 
seminary has been established near the 
centre cf the village on the site of the 
former Saiw Soim Hotel. The village has 
railway connection with Schenectady, dis- 
tant 15 miles. Long Lalce, a famous fish- 
ing resort, is five miles distant. 

Sai"i«,tog-a Spring's. — Hotels : 
the most desirable hotels remaining at 
Saratoga are the Union Hall and the Cla- 
rendon. The United States and Congress 
Hall were destroyed by fire, the former in 
1865, the latter in 1866. Besides these 
houses, there are many of less fashion and 
price, besides numerous private boarding- 
houses, where one may live quietly at a 
moderate cost. The hotels which we 
have named have accommodation for 
1,500 to 2,000 guests. Attached to the 
Union is an opera-house, capable of seat- 
ing 1,500 persons, billiard-rooms, baths, 
etc. Fine bands of music discourse on the 
broad, shady piazzas, and in the ball- 
rooms at the dinner and evening hours. 
The Clarendon is an elegant, spacious 
house, lately erected on the brow of the 
46 



hill overlooking Congress and Columbia 
Springs. 

Route. — From Boston, by the Western 
Railway, 200 miles to Albany ; or, from 
New York, by the Hudson River line or 
steamboats, 144 miles to Albany, or 150 
miles to Troy. From either place, by 
the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway, 
through Ballston Springs. 

The short ride from Troy to the Springs 
-is a most agreeable one. The route 
crosses and follows the Hudson and the 
Mohawk Rivers, to Waterford at the 
meeting of these waters, four miles 
above Troy, and near the Cohoes Falls, 
a much admired and frequented resort 
upon the Mohawk, thence continuing upon 
the west b_ank of the Hudson, eight miles 
farther to Mechanicsville. It afterward 
crosses the canal, passes Round Lake, 
and enters Ballston Springs. 

During the summer-, a car on the Hud- 
son River Railway express trains from 
New Yoi'k passes through to the Springs 
without change. Passengers ina Albany 
for the Springs change cars at Albany. 

Saratoga has been for many years, and 
still is, and probably always will be, the 
most famous place of summer resort in 
the United States, frequented by Ameri- 
cans from all sections, and by foreign 
tourists from all parts of Europe. Dur- 
ing the height of the season the arrivals 
frequently outnumber a thousand in a 
single day. There is nothing remarkable 
about the topography or scenery of Sara- 
toga ; on the contrary, the spot would be 
uninteresting enough but for the virtues 
of its vraters and the dissipations of its 
brilliant society. The village streets, 
however, are gratefully shaded by fine 
trees, and a little respite from the gay 
whirl may be got on the walks and 
lawns of the pretty rural cemetery close 
by. The springs from which the fame 
of Saratoga is derived, however much_ 
fashion may have since nursed it, are all - 
in or very near the village. There are 
many different waters in present use, but 
the most sought after of all are those of 
the Congress Spring, of which Dr. Chilton 
gives the following analysis : One gallon 
of 261 cubic inches: chloride of sodium, 
363.829 grains ; carbonate of soda, 7.200 ; 
carbonate of lime, 86.143 ; carbonate of 
magnesia, 78.621 ; carbonate of iroui 



J, 



Saratoga.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Glenn's Falls. 



.841 ; sulphate of soda, .651 ; iodins of 
sodium and bromide of potassium, 5.920; 
silica, .472 ; alumina, .321 : total, 543.998 
grains. Carbonic acid, 284.65 ; atmos- 
pheric air, 5.41 ; making 290.06 inches 
of gaseous contents. This spring was dis- 
covered in 1*792, though it was long be- 
fore known to and esteemed by the Indians. 
After the Congress waters, which are 
bottled and sent all over the world, as 
everybody knows, the springs most in 
favor and use at Saratoga are the Em- 
pire, the Columbian, the High Rock the 
Iodine, the Pavilion, and Putnam's. The 
Excelsior, Star, and Saratoga A Springs 
are also becoming popular. The JEmpire 
Spring, the most northerly one in the 
village, has grown greatly in repute 
of late years. So far its landscape sur- 
roundings have received but poor atten- 
tion. The High Rock Spring, not far from 
the Empire, is much esteemed both for 
its medicinal virtues and for the curious 
character of the rock from which it issues, 
and after which it is named. It was first 
known by the discovery of Sir William 
Johnson, in I'ZfiY. This singular rock 
has been formed by the accumulated de- 
posits of the mineral substances (mag- 
,nesia, lime, and iron) held in solution by 
jthe carbonic acid gas of the springs. 
;The circumference of the rock, at the 
isurface of the ground, is 24 feet 4 inches, 
jits height 3|- feet, with an aperture of 
nearly one foot diameter. The ceuten- 
:nial anniversary of its discovery was 
celebrated August 23, 1866. The Selker 
Spring is newly opened. In the immedi- 
ate vicinity of the springs is pointed out 
the spot upon which the battles of Sara- 
toga and Stillwater were fought in lYYV. 
j The Alpha and the Omega of the daily 
Saratoga programme, is to drink and to 
dance — the one in the earliest possible 
morning, and the other at the latest ccn- 
.ceivable night. Among the out-door di- 
versions is a jaunt to Saratoga Lake, an 
attractive resort, six miles distant. The 
drive thither has recently been improved. 
Ihe lake is nine miles in length and very 
aearly three in width. The marshes around 
prevent access, except here and there. 
Moons and AbeWs Lake Houses are woll- 
cept houses, with conveniences for boat- 
ig, fishuig, etc. Snake Hill is the name 
iven to an eminence uj^on the eastern 



side of the lake. The Indian camp, Cir- 
cular Railway, and Archery Ground are 
immediately south of Congress Spring, 
and the "Victoria Walk." The pecu- 
liarity of " the Camp " is that the In- 
dians are almost all white, and of marked 
Milesian features. The village has two 
newspaper offices, several churches, and 
a resident population of 8,000, which is 
increased to nearly 30,000 during the 
months of July and August. 

A visit to Lake George, 28 miles dis- 
tant, affords a pleasing variation in t-ara- 
toga life. The route lies northvrard, via 
Gansevoort to Moreau Station, 17 miles, 
and thence by stages, 11 miles, over a 
plank road, to Caldwell, at the south end 
or head of the lake. 

GlenrCs Falls, on the upper Hudson, 
are passed on the way, nine miles from 
the lake. The wild and rugged landscape is 
in striking contrast with the general air 
of the country below — there, quiet pas- 
toral lands ; here, rugged rock and rush- 
ing cataract. This is a spot trebly inter- 
esting, from its natural, its poetical, and 
its historical character. The passage of 
the river is through a rude ravine, in a 
mad descent of 75 feet over a rocky pre- 
cipice of 900 feet in length. Within the 
roar of these rapids were laid some of 
the scenes in Cooper's story of the " Last 
of the Mohicans." They are gently as- 
sociated with our romantic memories of 
Uncas and Hawk's Eye, David Duncan 
Haywood and his sweet wards, Alice and 
Cora Monroe. 

When within four miles of the lake, 
we pass a dark glen, in which lie hid- 
den the storied waters of Bloody Pond, 
and close by is the historic old bowlder, 
remembered as William's Rock. Near 
this last-mentioned spot. Colonel Williams 
was killed in an engagement with the 
French and Indians, September 8, 1775. 
The slain in this unfortunate battle were 
cast into the waters near by, since called 
Bloody Pond. It is now quiet enough, 
under its surface of slime and dank lilies. 
The village built uf> round these falls was 
almost wholly destroyed by fire in May, 
1860. The inhabitants number near 5,000, 
and are principally engaged in manufac- 
turing pursuits. Marble of fine quality is 
quarried here. 

Our road from the falls descends to the 
47 



Lake George.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Sabgath-day Point. 



lake shore, the gleammo; floods and the 
blue clifl's of Horicon ekising in the dis- 
tance. The first broad view of the beau- 
tiful lake, seen suddenly as our way 
brings us to the brink of the highlands, 
above whieh we have thus far travelled, 
is of surpassing beauty, only exceeded by 
the thonsand-and-one marvels of delight 
which we afterward enjoy in all the long 
traverse of its famous waters. 

1j a l£ e Georg-e. — Hotels, the 
Fort WilUmn Henry Hotel and the Lahe 
HouHe, at the south end of the lake (Cald- 
well). About a mile southeast from the 
site of Fort William Henry are the ruins 
of Fort George, passed on the road from 
Glenn's Falls. These localities are seen 
from the piazza of the Lake House, which 
commands also a fine view of the French 
Mountain and Rattlesnake Hill, and of 
the islands and hills down the lake. 

The passage of Lake George, 36 miles, 
to the landing near the village of Ticon- 
deroga, and four miles from the venerable 
ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake 
Champlain, is made by the steamer Hia- 
wailia^ the trip down to the fort and 
back occupying the day very delight- 
fully. Leaving Caldwell after breakfast, 
we proceed on our voyage down the lake. 
After passing the tine residence of Mr. 
Cramer, the first spot of especial interest 
which we pass is Diamond Island, in 
front of Dunham Bay. Here, in 1777, 
was a military depot of Burgoyne's 
army, and the scene of a skirmish be 
tween the garrison and a detachment of 
Amei-ican troops. 

North of Diamond Isle lies Long Island, 
in front of Long Point, which extends 
into the lake from the east. Harris's Bay 
lies between the north side of this point 
and the mountains. In this bay Mont- 
calm moored his boats and landed in 
1757. Doovi, or Twelve-Mile Island, is 
passed in the centre of the lake, some 12 
miles north of Caldwell. Putnam's men 
took shelter here while he went to ap- 
prise General Webb of the movements 
of the enemy, at the mouth of the North- 
west Bay. This bay lies in one of the 
most beautiful parts of Lake George, just 
beyond Bolton Landing, where there is 
an inviting place to sojourn, called the 
" Mohican House." The best fishing- 
grounds of Lake George are in that part 
48 



of the waterr which we have ali-eady 
passed, in the vicinity of Bolton Land- 
ing, Shelving Rock, and thence to Cald- 
well, though fine trout and bass are freely 
caught from one end of the lake to the 
other. The bay extends up on the west 
of the Tongue Mountain some five miles. 
On the east side of the bay, the Tongue 
Mountain comes in literally like a tongue 
of the lake, into the centre of which it 
seems to protrude, with the bay on one 
side and the main passage of the waters 
on the other. On the right or east shore, 
in the neighborhood, and just as we reach 
the Tongue and enter the "Narrows," is 
the bold semicircular palisades called 
Shelving Hock. Passing this picturesque 
feature of the landscape, and, afterward, 
the point of the Tongue Mountain, we 
enter the Naerovts at the base of the 
boldest and loftiest shores of Horicon. 
The chief peak of the hills here is that 
of Black Mountain, with an altitude of 
2,'200 feet. The islands, so called, of 
this lovely lake number more than 300. 

Sahhath-Day Point. — Emerging from 
the Narrows, on the north, we approach 
a long projecting strip of fertile land, 
called Sabbath-Day Point — so named by 
General Abercrombie, from his having 
embarked his army on the spot on Sun- 
day morning, after a halt for the prece- 
ding night. The spot is remembered also 
as the scene of a fight, in 1756, between 
the colonists and a party of French and 
Indians. The former, sorely pressed, and 
unable to escape across the lake, made a 
bold defence and defeated the enemy, 
killing very many of their men. In 1776 
Sabbath-Day Point was again the scene 
of a battle between some American militia 
and a party of Indians and Tories, when 
the latter were repulsed, and some 40 of 
their number were killed and wounded. 
This part of Horicon is even more charm- 
ing in its pictures, both np and down the 
lake, than it is in its numerous historical 
reminiscences. On a calm sunny day the 
romantic passage of the Narrows, as seen 
to the southward, is wonderfully fine; 
while, in the opposite direction, the broad 
bay, entered as the boat passes Sabbath- 
Day Point, and the summer landing and 
hotel at " Garfield's," soon to be ab 
ruptly closed on the north by the huge 
precipices of Anthony's Nose on the 



i, 



FOKT TiCONDEEOGA.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Whitehall. 



right and Roger's Slide on the left. This 
pass is not unlike that of the Highlands 
of the Hudson as approached from the 
south. 

JRoffer^s Slide is a rugged promontory, 
about 400 feet high, with a steep face of 
bare rock, down which the Indians, to 
their great bewilderment, supposed the 
Ibold ranger, Major Rogers, to have pass- 
led, when they .pursued him to the brink 
of the precipice. 

Two miles beyond is PHsone7-^s Island, 
where, during the French War, those 
taken captive by the English were con- 
fined ; and directly west is Lo7'd Hoive^s 
Point, where the English army, under 
Lord Howe, consisting of 16,000 men, 
anded previous to the attack on Ticon- 
deroga. We now approach the termina- 
tion of our excursion on this beautifnl 
lake, and in a mile reach the steamboat 
landing near the village of Ticonderoga, 
Whence stages run a distance of three 
miles, over a rough and romantic road, 
fo Fort Ticonderoga — following the wild 
bourse of the passage by wliich Horicon 
reaches the waters of Lake Champlain — 
a passage full of bold rapids and striking 
pascades. 

Fort Ticonderoga, of which the ruins 
inly are visible, was erected by the 
French in 1Y56, and called by them 
Carrillon." It was originally a place 
jf much strength ; its natural advantages 
ivere very great, being surrounded on 
three sides by water, and having half its 
fourth covered by a swamp, and the only 
point by which it could be approached, 
a breastwork. It was afterward, 
aowever, easily reduced, by an expedi- 
ent adopted by General Burgoyne— =-that 
bf placing a piece of artillery on the pin- 
aacle of Mount Defiance, on the south 
side of the Lake George outlet, and 750 
-:eet above the lake, and entirely com- 
faanding the fort, from, which shot was 
hrown into the midst of the American 
ivorks. Fort Ticonderoga was one of the 
irst strongholds taken from the English 
n I'Z'TS, at the commencement of the 
Revolutionary War. Colonel Ethan Allen, 
f Vermont, at the head of the Green 
ilountain Boys, surprised the unsuspect- 
ag garrison, penetrated to the very bed- 
ido of the commandant, and waking him, 
lemanded the surrender of the fort. 



" In whose name, and to whom ?" ex- 
claimed the surprised officer. "In the 
name of the great Jehovah, and the Con- 
tinental Congress!" thundered the in- 
trepid Allen, and the fort was immediately 
surrendered. 

After exploring the picturesque ruins 
of the ancient fort, and dining at the 
hotel, which stands upon the margin of a 
beautiful lawn, sloping to the Champlain 
shore, the tourist may return to the 
landing on Lake George, and thence to 
Caldwell again, in time for tea ; or he may 
take the Champlain boat from Whitehall, 
en route for Canada. 

For the sake of preserving our con- 
tinuity of travel, a consideration in tourist 
and pleasure travel, we resume our pro- 
gramme at Moreau Station, on the Sarar 
toga and Whitehall Railway, to which 
point we have already followed it in our 
visit to Lake George. 

To Whitehall the country is exceed- 
ingly attractive, much of the way, in its 
quiet, sunny valley beauty, watered by 
pleasant streams, and environed in the 
distance by picturesque hills. The Cham- 
plain Canal is a continual object of inter- 
est by the way ; and there are also, as 
in all the long journey before us, every- 
where spots of deep historic charm, if we 
could tarry to read their stories — of the 
memorable incidents which they witness- 
ed, both in French and Indian and after- 
ward in the Revolutionary War. In the 
valley regions of the Hudson, which lie 
between Albany and Lake Champlain, 
are many scenes famous for the struggles 
between the colonists and Great Britain 
— the battle-grounds of Bemis Heights 
and Stillwater (villages of the upper 
Hudson), and of Saratoga, which ended 
in the defeat of Burgoyne and his army. 

Three miles north of Moreau Station 
we pass Fort Edward, the scene of the 
murder of Jane McCrea by the Indians ; 
and twelve miles further on Fort Anne, a 
pleasant village of Washington County, 
on the canal. Remains of the fortification 
from which the place is named, and 
which was erected during the French 
War of 1*756, are still to be seen. 
IVlaitelisall. 

Whitehall, 7*7 miles north of Albany, 
was a point of much consideration during 
the French and Indian War, and through 
49 



Lake Champlain.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Bprlington'. 



the Revolution. In former times it was 
called Skciiesborougb. It is at the south 
end or head of Lake Champlain, with- 
in a rude, rocky ravine, at the foot 
of Skene's Mountain. The Champlain 
Canal to Troy terminates here. Pawlet 
River and Wood Creek, which enter the 
lake here, furnish abundant water-power ; 
population, 4,500. There is nothing in 
the vicinage to delay the traveller. From 
Whitehall we can either continue our 
journey down Lake Champlain, 156 miles, 
to St. John, or proceed by railway through 
Vermont, via Castleton, Rutland, Bur- 
lington, etc., to Rouse's Point, and thence 
to Montreal. The boat or lake route is 
preferable, as affording greater variety 
and more attractive scenery. 



LAKE CEA3IPLAIK 

Lake Champlain, one of the most im- 
portant and attractive features of the 
northern tour, lies between New York and 
Vermont, in latitude between 43° 30' and 
45° 6' north. It varies in breadth from 
half a mile to 10 miles, and in depth from 
50 to 280 feet. Its principal tributaries 
are the Saranac, Au Sable, and Winooski, 
and its principal outlet the Sorel or 
Richelieu River, through which it dis- 
charges into the St. Lawrence, 50 miles 
below Montreal. The name is derived 
from that of Samuel de Champlain, who 
discovered it in 1609. Navigation open 
from May to November. One of the IT. S. 
mail steamers leaves Whitehall on the ar- 
rival of trains from Albany, etc. The nar- 
rowness of the lower part of Lake Cham- 
plain gives it much more the air of a river 
than a lake. For 20 miles the average 
breadth does not exceed half a mile ; and 
at one point it is not more than 40 rods 
across. However, it grows wide enough 
as we pass Ticonderoga, where passen- 
gers by the Lake George detour are picked 
up, and in the vicinity of Burlington 
there are too many broad miles between 
the shores for picturesque uses. Whether 
broad or narrow, the voyage, in large and 
admirable boats, over its mountain-envi- 
roned waters, is always a pleasure to be 
greatly enjoyed and happily remembered. 
On the cast rise the bare peaks of the 
Green Hills of Vermont, the bold Camel's 
50 



Hump leading all along the line ; and on 
the west are the still more varied sum- 
mits and ridges of the Adirondack Moun- 
tains in New York. 

Mount Independence lies in Vermont, 
opposite Ticonderoga, about a mile dis- 
tant. The remains of military works are 
still visible here. Mount Ilope^ an ele- 
vation about a mile north of Ticonderoga, 
was occupied by General Burgojme pre- 
vious to the recapture of Ticonderoga, 
which took place in 1'77Y, nearly two 
years after its surrender to the gallant 
Allen. St. Clair, the American eommaml- 
er, being forced to evacuate, it agdn fell 
into the possession of the British, and 
was held during the war. Not far above 
and upon the opposite shore, is the village 
of Crown Point, and just beyond the pic- 
turesque and well-preserved ruins of the 
fortifications of the same name. Opposite 
is Chimney Foi?ii, and just above, on the 
left, at the mouth of Bulwaggy Bay, is 
Fort Henry. 

Biirliiigtom. — Hotels, -4»xmca», 
the Lake Hovse. 

Burlington, Vermont, the largest and 
most beautiful town on the lake, or in- 
deed in the State, isxipon the eastern or 
Vermont shore, about midway between 
Whitehall and St. Johns, distant 80 
miles from Whitehall. It was settled in 
1*783, and contains nearly 10,000 inhabi- 
tants. Rising gradually to an elevation 
of several hundred feet from the water, the 
town presents an imposing aspect. It is the 
seat of the University of Vermont, ioxmdi- 
ed 1*791, and is a place of much com- 
mercial importance, connected by rail- 
way with all parts of the country. Across 
the lake is Port Kent, from which vicin- 
ity, whether on land or on water, the 
landscape in every direction is striking 
and beautiful. Mount Mansfield is ve?i.ii\\- 
ed by stage. (See chapter on Vermont.) 
A pleasant detour may be made from 
Burlington by the Vermont Central Rail- 
way to the White Mountains. The better 
plan, however, is to proceed up the lake to 
St. Johns, and thence by Waterloo and 
Lake Memphremagog, 63 miles. The re- 
markable Walled Banks of the Av. Sable 
are a mile or two west of Port Kent, on 
the way to the manufacturing village of 
Keeseville. (See Adirondacks.) The 
Au Sable House is an excellent sum- 



Ji 



Plattsburg.] 



NEW YOEK. 



[Route V. 



mer hotel. The Falls of the Azt Sable, 
[though but little known as yet, will one 
pay be esteemed among the chief natural 
wonders of the country. 

I?la,tt stmrg'. — Hotels, " i^bw- 
guet^s." Twenty-four miles above Bur- 

Iington, and on the opposite shore, is the 
)leasant village of Plattsburg, where the 
paranac River comes in from its lake-dot- 
ted home, at the edge of the great wilder- 
ness of northern New York, 30 miles 
westward. Plattsbui'g is connected with 
Montreal by the P. & M. Railway. Cum- 
berland Bay, into which the Saranac 
pnters, was the scene of the victory of 
McDonough and Macomb over the Brit- 
ish naval and land forces, under Com- 
rnodore Downie and Sir George Pro- 
jvost, familiarly known as the Battle 
of Lake Champlain. Here the Amer- 
ican commodore awaited the arrival 
of the British fleet, which passed Cum- 
berland Head about eight o'clock in the 
morning of September 11, 1814. The 
first gun from the fleet was tlie sig- 
bal for commencing the attack on land. 
Sir George Provost, with about 14,000 
taen, furiously assaulted the defences of 
the town, whilst the battle raged be- 
tween the fleets, in full view of the 
^rmies. General Macomb, with about 
3,000 men, mostly undiscipliued, foiled 
the repeated assaults of the enemy, until 
the capture of the British fleet, after an 
action of about two hours, obliged him 
M retire, with the loss of 2,500 men, and 
i large portion of his baggage and am- 
inunition. 

Twenty-five miles farther we reach 
Rouse's Point, on the west side of 
ihe lake. This is our last landing be- 
fore we enter Canada. It is the termi- 
lus of the Lake Champlain Railway to 
pgdensburg, 118 miles. Railways from 
;he Eastern States through Vermont 
;ome in here, and are prolonged by the 
Montreal and Champlain road to Mon- 
real. If the traveller toward Canada 
)refers to continue his journey otherwise 
han via Plattsburg, or Rouse's Point, 
le may go on by steamboat to the head 
)f navigation in these waters to St. 
Tohns, and thence by Lachine to Montreal. 

(See Canada, for the tour of the St. 
jawrence and Lake Ontario from Quebec 
ia Monti-eal to Niagara.) 



MOUTE r. 



NEW YORK TO ELMIBA, GENESEE, 
AND DUNKIRK. 

( Via Neto York and Erie Railroad.) 

This great route claims especial admi- 
ration for the grandeur of the enterprise 
which conceived and executed it, for the 
vast contributions it has made to the 
facilities of travel, and for the multiplied 
and varied landscape beauties which it 
has made so readily and pleasantly ac- 
cessible. Its entire length, from New 
York to Dunkirk on Lake Erie, is 460 
miles (including the Piermont and the 
Newburg branches, it is 49*7 miles), in 
which it traverses the southern portion 
of the Empire State in its entire extent 
from east to west, passing through count- 
less towns and villages, over many rivers, 
now through rugged mountain-passes, 
and anon amidst broad and fertile valleys 
and plains. In addition, it has many 
branches, connecting its stations with 
other routes in all directions, and open- 
ing up new stores of pictorial pleasure. 

The road was first commenced in 
1836. The first portion (46 miles, from 
Piermont to Goshen) was put in opera- 
tion September 23, 1841, and on May 
15, 1851, the entire line to Lake Erie 
was opened amid great rejoiciugs and fes- 
tivities, in which the President of the 
United States and other distinguished 
guests of the company assisted. Daily 
trains leave for the West on this route, 
from the foot of Duane Street, morning, 
noon, and night. 

Stations. — Boiling Spring, 9 miles; 
Passaic Bx-idge, 11 ; Huyler's, 12 ; Pater- 
son, 16; Ridgewood, 22; Hohokus, 23; 
Allendale, 25 ; Ramsey's, 2*7 ; Suffern's, 
31 ; Ramapo,' 33 ; Sloatsburg, 35 ; South- 
fields, 41 ; Greenwood, 44 ; Turner^s, 47 ; 
Oxford, 52 ; Chester (Greycourt), 55 ; 
Goshen, 69 ; Hampton, 63 ; Middletown, 
66 ; Otisville, 15 ; Fort Jervis, 88 ; Zack- 
awaxen, 110; Mast Hope, 116; Nar- 
r-owsburcf, 122 ; Cochecton, 130 ; Haw- 
kins, 142 ; Lordville, 153; Stockport, 
159; Hancock, 163 (junction of Del- 
aware, Lackawanna, and Western R. R.) ; 
Deposit, 1'76 ; Susquehanna, 192; Great 
Bend, 200; Kirkwood, 206; Blngham- 
ton, 214 (junction of Syracuse and Bing- 
51 



Route V.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Route V, 



hamton R. R.) ; Hooper, 220 ; Owego, 
236 ; Tioga, 242 ; Barton, 248 ; Waver- 
ley, 255; Chemung, 260; Wellsburg, 
266; Elmira, 2^3 (function of Williams- 
port and Elmira R. R.) ; Big Flats, 283 ; 
Corning, 291 (iunction of Buffalo Divi- 
sion) ; Tainted "Post, 292 ; Addison, 301 ; 
Rathbonevdle, 806; Adrian, 322; Hor- 
nellsville, 331; Alfred, 340; Andover, 
349; Genesee, 358; Philipsville 365; 
Belvidere, 369; Hinsdale, 389; Olean, 
398; Great Valley, 411; Salamanca, 
415 (junction of Atlantic and Great 
Western R. R.) ; Cattaraugus, 428 ; Day- 
ton, 437 ; Ferrysburg, 440 ; Forestville, 
461 ; BimMrk, 460. 

The first 31 miles of the Erie route lie 
through the State of New Jersey, from 
Jersey City, opposite New York, to 
"Suffern's," and consists of parts of three 
diifereut railways, though used of late 
years for all the general passenger travel 
of the Erie road, and with its own broad 
track and cars. The original line of the 
road is from Suffern's eastward, 18 miles, 
to Piermont, and thence 24 miles down 
the Hudson River. This route is now 
employed only for freight and for local 
travel. It leads through a rude but not 
uninteresting country, with here and 
there a fine landscape or an agreeable 
village. Passing then through the New 
Jersey towns (see chapter on New Jer- 
sey), we begin our mention of places and 
scenes of interest on the Erie route at 
Suffern's Station, where the original Piei'- 
mont and the present Jersey City lines 
meet. The Ramapo Valley commences 
at this point, and in its wild mountain- 
passes we find the first scenes of especial 
remark in our journey. Fine hill farms 
surround us here, and on all our way 
through the region of the Ramapo for 18 
miles, by Sloatsburg, Souflifields, Green- 
v'ood, and Turner^s, to Monroe. The 
chief attraction of the Ramapo Gap is 
the Torn Mountain, seen on the right, 
near the entrance of the valley, and about 
the Ramapo Station. This is historical 
ground, sacred with memories of the 
movements of the Revolutionary army, 
when it was driven back into New Jersey 
from the Hudson. Washington often as- 
cended to the summit of the Torn Moun- 
tain, to overlook the movements of the 
British. On one such occasion, anecdote 
52 



says, that he lost his watch in a crevice 
of a rock, of which credulity afterward 
heard the ticking in the percolations of 
unseen waters. Very near the railway 
at Sufl'ern's the debris of old intrench- 
ments are still visible ; and marks of the 
camp-fires of our French allies of the 
period may be traced in the woods op- 
posite. Near by is an old farm-house, 
once occupied by the commander-in-chief. 
The Ramapo is a great iron ore and iron 
manufacturing region ; and it was here 
that the chain which was stretched 
across the Hudson to check the advance 
of the English ships, was forged, at the 
spot once called the Augusta Iron Works, 
and now a poetical ruin by a charming 
cascade with overhanging bluff, seen close 
by the road, on the right, after passing 
Sloatsburg. The Ramapo Brook winds 
attractively through the valley, and 
beautiful lakelets are found upon the hill- 
tops. There are two such elevated ponds 
near Sloatsburg. At Sloatsburg passen- 
gers for the summer resort of Greenwood 
Lake, 12 miles distant, take stage. (See 
Greenwood Lake). From Monroe on- 
ward through Oxford, Chester, Goshen, 
Hampton, Middletown, HoweWs, and Otis- 
ville, to JPort Jervis (or Delaware), we are 
in the great dairy region of Orange 
County, New York, which sends a train 
of cars laden with milk daily to the New 
York market. A very channing view is 
seen south from the station at Oxford, 
led by the cone of the Sugar Loaf, the 
chief hill feature of the vicinage. At Ches- 
ter, now called Greycourt, the branch 
road from Newburg, on the Hudson 
River, to Warwick, 29 miles, intersects the 
main line. From this point, as well as 
from Sloatsburg, passengers for Green- 
wood Lake (eight miles) take stage. 
Middletown is a flourishing town in 
Orange County. It has an academy and 
extensive iron-works. At Howell's, 70 
miles from New York, the country gives 
promise of the picturesque displays to 
be seen all through the way onward to 
Port Jervis. Approaching Otisville, the 
eye is atti-acted by the bold flanks of the 
Shawangunk Mountain, the passage of 
which great barrier (once deemed almost 
insurmountable) is a miracle of engineer- 
ing skill. A mile beyond Otisville, after 
traversing an ascending grade of 40 feet 



1 



Port Jervis.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Shohola. 



to the mile, the road runs through a rock 
cutting 50 feet deep and 2,500 feet long. 
This passed, the summit of the ascent is 
reached, and thence we go down the moun- 
tain side many sloping miles to the val- 
ley beneath. The scenery along the 
mountain slope is grand and picturesque, 
land the effect is not lessened by the bold 
features of the landscape all around — the 
rugged front of the Shawanguuk, step- 
ping, like a colossal ghost, into the scene 
for one instant, and the eye anon resting 
upon a vast reach of untamed wilderness. 
In the descent of the mountain the em- 
bankment is securely supported by a 
Wall 30 feet in height and 1,000 feet long. 
Onward the way increases in interest, 
Initil it opens upon a glimpse, away over 
the valley of the mountain spur, called 
the Cuddleback ; and, at its base, the 
tlittering water seen now for the first 
fime, of the Delaware and Hudson Canal, 
whose dehouche we have looked upon 
kt Kingston, in our voyage up the Hud- 
son River. Eight miles beyond Otis%'ille 
ve are imprisoned in a deep cutting for 
early a mile, which prepares us for the 
prilliant surprise which awaits us. The 
lark passage made, and yet another bold 
lash through rocky cliffs, and there lies 
juddenly spread before us, upon our 
ight, the rich and lovely valley and 
vaters of the Neversink. Beyond sweeps 
i chain of blue hills, and at their feet, 
erraced high, gleam the roofs and spires 
.tf the village of Port Jervis ; while on- 
[*^ard, to the south, our eye first beholds 
he floods of the Delaware, which is to 
)e so great a source of delight in our 
ourney hence, for nearly 90 long miles, 
o Deposit. 

Port Jervis, formerly Delaware, as the 
tation was called, is the terminus of 
he eastern division, one of four great 
ub-sections into which the road is 
ivided. It is the point at which the 
ourist who can spend several days in 
iewiug the route, should make his first 
ight's halt. The vicinage is replete 
ath pictorial delights, and with ways 
nd means for rural sports and pleasures, 
harms of climate and of scenery, with 
ae additional considerations of a jaretty 
illage and a most excellent hotel (the 
felaware House), have made Port Jervis 
place of great and continuous summer 



resort and tarry. The Falls of the Saw- 
kill, sis miles distant, are reached by 
stage. This stream, after flowing slug- 
gishly for some miles through level table 
land, is here precipitated over two per- 
pendicular ledges of slate-rock — the first 
of about 20 feet, and the second about 60 
feet— into a wild gorge. The brook still 
continues, dashing and foaming on for a 
quarter of a mile, over smaller precipices, 
and through chasms scarcely wide 
enough for ihe visitor to pass. The 
beetling cliffs that form the sides of the 
gorge are surmounted and shaded by 
cedars and hemlocks, that lend a pecu- 
liarly so^nbre air to the scenery. The 
sojourner here should not omit a tramp to 
the top of Point Peter, which overlooks 
the village. 

At Port Jervis commences the second 
division of the road which carries us on- 
ward, 104 miles farther, to Susquehanna. 
The canal keeps us company, nearer or 
more remote, for some miles, and by and 
by we cross the Delaware on a fine bridge 
of 800 feet, built at a cost of $'75,000. 
The river, from this point, is seen, both 
above and below, to great advantage. 
Here we leave Orange County and New 
York for a little incursion into the Key- 
stone State, for which privilege the rail- 
way company pays Pennsylvania $10,000 
per year. The canal, and its pictures 
and incidents, are still the most agreeable 
features of our way, though at Point 
Eddy we open into one of the wide basins 
so striking in the scenery of the Del- 
aware. 

Near Shohola, 106 miles from New 
York, we are among some of the greatest 
engineering successes of the Erie route, 
and some of its chief pictorial charms. 
Here the road lies on the mountain side, 
several feet above the river, along a 
mighty gallery, supported by grand nat- 
ural abutments of jagged rock. It is a 
pleasant scene to v.'atch the flight of the 
train upon the crest of this rocky and se- 
cure ijrecipice; and theimpressiveness of 
the sight is deepened by its contrast with 
the peaceful repose of the smiling meadow 
slopes on the opposite side of the river 
below. Upon three miles along this 
Shohola section of the road no less than 
$300,000 were expended. 

At Lachawaxen there is a charming 
53 



Hancock.] 



NEW YORK. 



[BiNGHAMTON. 



picture of the village, and of the Dela- 
ware bridged by the railway and by the 
grand aqueduct for the passage of the 
canal, supported by an iron-wire suspen- 
sion bridge. We pass on now by Mast 
Hope to Narrowsburg. 

Narrovisburg (122 miles from New 
York, and 33Y from Dunkirk) has a good 
hotel. Beyond Narrowsburg, for some 
miles, the traveller may turn to his news- 
paper or book for occupation awhile, so lit- 
tle of hiterest does the scene without pre- 
sent, with the exception now and then of 
a pleasant bit of pastoral region. Some 
compensation may be found in recalling 
the stirring incidents of Cooper's novel of 
" The Last of the Mohicans," of which 
this ground was the theatre. 

At Callicoon, a brook full of wild and 
beautiful passages and of bright trout, en- 
ters the Delaware. 

Hancock is one of the most important 
places of this division of our route, and 
in every way a pleasant spot for sojourn. 
At DejjOHit, 13 miles beyond Hancock, we 
bid good-by to the Delaware, which we 
have followed so long ; refresh ourselves 
at the excellent cafe, and prepare for the 
ascent of a heavy grade over the high 
mountain ridge v/hich separates it from 
the lovely waters of the Susquehanna. 
As the train descends into the valley 
there seems no promise of the wonders 
which are awaiting us, but they come 
suddenly, and before we are aware we are 
traversing the famou-s Cascade Bridge, a 
solitary arch, 250 feet wide, sprung over 
a dark ravine of 184 feet in depth. No 
adequate idea of the bold spirit and beauty 
of the scene can be had from the cars ; 
indeed, in the rapid transit it is often 
passed before the traveller is aware of its 
approach. It should be viewed leisurely 
from the bottom of the deep glen, and 
from all sides, to be realized aright. To 
see it thus, a half day's halt should be 
made at the Great Bend station. 

The Cascade Bridge crossed, the view 
opens almost immediately at the right — 
deep down upon the winding Susquehan- 
na, reaching afar off amid a valley and hill 
picture of delicious quality, a fitting pre- 
lude to the sweet river scenes we are 
henceforth to delight in. This first grate- 
ful glimpse of the brave Susquehanna is 
justly esteemed as one of the finest points 
54 



on the varied scenery of the Erie Eail- 
road route. It may be looked at more 
leisurely and more lovingly by him who 
tarries to explore the Cascade Bridge 
hard by, and the valley of the Starrucca, 
with its grand viaduct, which we are now 
rapidly approaching. The Slarrncca Via- 
duct is one of the greatest engineering 
achievements of the entire route. It is 
1,200 feet in length, and 110 feet high, 
and has 18 grand arches, each 50 feet 
span. The cost was $320,000. From 
the vicinity of Susquehanna, the next 
station, the viaduct itself makes a most 
effective feature in the valley views. A 
little beyond the viaduct, and just before 
we reach the Susquehanna station, we 
cross a fine trestle bridge, 450 feet long, 
over the Cannewacta Creek, at Lanes- 
borough. We are now fairly upon the 
Susquehanna, not in the- distance, but 
near its very marge, and, anon, we reach 
the end of the second grand division of 
our route, and enter the depot of Susque- 
hanna. Susquehanna, 193 miles from 
New York, is an important railroad station 
and manufacturing point. Just beyond 
the Susquehanna depot we cross to the 
right bank of the river, and, after two 
more miles' ride, yet amidst mountain 
ridges, we reach Great Bend, 200 miles 
from New York, and 259 from Dunkirk. 
The village of this name lies close by, at 
the base of a bold, cone-shaped hill. The 
Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Eail- 
road, joins the Erie road at this point. 
Leaving Great Bend, we enter upon the 
more cultivated landscape of which we 
lately spoke, and approach villages and 
towns of great extent and elegance. Near 
Kirkwood, the next station, six miles 
from Great Bend, there stands an old 
wooden tenement, which may attract 
the traveller's notice as the birthplace 
of the Mormon prophet, Joe Smith. 

lIiiag-liaim.toii . — Hotels, 
American House, Lewis House. 

Binghamton, 215 miles from New 
York, is, with its population of ten or 
eleven thousand people, one of the most 
important places on the Erie route, and 
indeed in Southern New York. It is a 
beautiful town, situated upon a wide 
plain, in an angle made by the meeting 
of the Susquehanna and the Chenango 
Rivers. Binghamton was settled in 1 YS*? 



0V7EG0.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Salamanca. 



by Mr. Bingham, an English gentleman, 
whose daughters married the brothers 
Henry and Alexander Baring, the famous 
London bankers. One of those gentle- 
men was afterward, created Lord Ash- 
burton. It was incorporated in 1818. 
I The Chenango Canal, extending along the 
Chenango River, connects Binghamton 
with Utica, 95 miles distant ; and it is 
also the southern terminus of the Syra- 
cuse and Binghamton Railroad, 80 miles 
long. 

® TT e g o . — Hotels, the Ah-wa-ga 
House. 

Owego (23'7 miles), is another large and 
handsome town, almost rivalling Bing- 
hamton in beauty and importance. It 
was settled in 1*791, and incorporated in 
1827. Owego is surrounded by a land- 
scape not of bold but of very beautful fea- 
tures. Many noble panoramas are to be 
seen from the hill-tops around, overlook- 
ing the village and the great valley. The 
Owego Creek, which enters the Susque- 
hanna here, is a charming stream. Just 
before its meeting with the greater 
waters, it passes through the meadow 
and at the base of the hill-slopes of 
" Glenmary," once the home of N. P. 
Willis, and now one of the Meccas of the 
vicinage, to which all visitors are won by 
the charms and spells the fancy of the 
poet has cast about it. It was here that 
Mr. Willis wrote his famous " Letters 
from under a Bridge." Population, 6,000. 
The Cayuga division of the Delaware^ 
Lackawanna, and Western Railroad, di- 
verges here, some 30 miles, to Ithaca, on 
Cayuga Lake. 

SliiKura.. — Hotels, Brainard House. 

Passing the half dozen intermediate 
stations, we reach Elmira, 2*73 miles from 
New York, and 36 from Owego. This 
beautiful town is a peer of Binghamton 
and Owego, with the same charming val- 
ley nest and the same environing hill- 
ridges. It was settled in 1*788, and has 
a to^vn population of 14,000. The New- 
ton Creek and the Chemung River, near 
the junction of whose waters Elmira is 
built, lend a picturesque beauty to the vi- 
cinage. The JElmira, Canandaigua, and 
Niagara Falls Railway diverges here, and 
connects the town v/ith the Canada lines. 
This road affords one of the pleasantest 
summer routes from Now York to the 



falls of Niagara, The Williamsport and 
Elmira road connects with lines leading 
to Philadelphia. The Chemung Canal 
also connects Elmira with Seneca iMke, 20 
miles distant Five miles beyond Elmira 
our route lies over the Chemung River, 

CoB'Baimg (290 miles), is an impor- 
tant point on the Chemung River. The 
feeder of the Chemung Canal extends 
hither from Elmira. It is the depot of 
the Corning and Blosshnrg Hatlroad, 
which connects it with the coal beds of 
Pennsylvania. Incorporated, 1848. Pres- 
ent population, ^jSOO. At Corning ter- 
minates also the Buffalo branch road 
to Rochester (90 miles) and Buffalo, via 
Avon Springs, 142 miles. 

MosL-aaellsville (332 miles). Here 
,we enter upon the fourth and last division 
of the Erie route; it is yet 128 miles to 
Dunkirk. The country through the rest 
of our way is comparatively new, and no 
important towns have yet grown up with- 
in it. Pictorially, this division is the least 
attractive of the whole route, though 
beautiful scenes occur at intervals all 
along. Beyond Hornellsville we enter the 
valley of the Canisteo River. Almond 
and Alfred lie upon the banks of this 
charming stream. 

Reaching Tip Top Summit (the highest 
grade of the Erie road, being 1,700 feet 
above tide-water), we commence the de- 
scent into the valley of tim Genesee. The 
country has but few marks of human 
habitation to cheer its lonely and wild 
aspect, and lor many miles onward our 
way continues through a desolate forest 
tract, alternated only by the stations and 
little villages of the road. Beyond Ctiha 
Summit there are many brooks and glens 
of rugged beauty. Passing Olean, on the 
Alleghany River, we come into the lands 
of the Indian Reservation, where we fol- 
low the wild banks of the Alleghany, be- 
tween lofty hills as wild and desolate as 
itself. 

galaisiamca, 415 miles from New 
York, is important as the junction of the 
Erie and Atlantic and Great Western 
Railways, which unitedly form the great 
thoroughfare of travel between New York 
and Cincinnati and the Great West. At 
Cattaraugus, 428 miles from New York, 
and 31 from Dunkirk, we traverse a deep 
valley, where the eye is relieved for a lit- 
65 



Dunkirk.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Utica. 



tie while with scenes of gentler aspect 
than the unbroken forest we have long 
traverseJ, and ai-e to traverse still. Three 
miles beyond Perryshurg we catch 
glimpses of the great Erie waters, towai'd 
which we are now rapidly speeding. Yet 
a few miles and we are out of the dreary 
woods, crossing again through the more 
habitable lands which he upon the lakes. 

SJiiMlaii'Ii. — Hotels, the Eastern. 

Reaching Dunkirk, on I,ake Erie, the 
western terminus of the Erie road, the 
tourist may pursue his journey westward 
by any one of the numerous routes by 
land or by water. We have reached 
our destination within the State (New 
York), and refer our travelling friends to 
the Index for further information as to 
their route. 



MOUTE VI. 

TO BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS. 

{Via New York Central Bailicay and 
Branches.) 

Stations. — Albany; Schenectady, 17 
miles; Hoffman's, 26; Tribes Hill, 39; 
Fonda, 44; Palatine Bridge, 55; St. 
Johnsville, 64; Little Falls, 74; Herki- 
mer, 81 (see EicHPiELD Springs); TJtica, 
95; Rome, 110; Oneida, 122; Canastola, 
128 ; Chittenango, 134 ; Syracuse, 148 
(branch — lower line — to Rochester via 
Auburn and Canandaigua) ; Warner's, 
157; Port Byron, 173; Savannah, 180; 
Lyons, 193 ; Newark, 199 ; Palm.yra, 206 ; 
Fairport, 219; Rochester, 229 (branch 
to Niagara Falls, via Lockport) ; Bergen, 
246 ; IBatavia, 261 ; Corfu, 273 ; Buffalo, 
298 (branch to Niagara Falls, via Tona- 
wanda). (For route to Albany, see Routes 
n. and in.) 

This great route traverses from east to 
west the entire length of the Empire 
State. It has two termini at the eastern 
end, one at Albany and the other at 
Troy, which meet, after 17 miles, at Sche- 
nectady. It then continues in one line to 
Syracuse, 148 miles fr^m Albany, when 
it is again a double route for the remain- 
der of the way ; the lower line, via Auburn 
and Canandaigua, being looped uji to the 
other at Rochester, about midway be- 
tween Syracuse and Buffalo. The upper 
56 



route is the more direct, and the one 
which we shall now follow. The great 
Erie Canal traverses the State of New 
York from Albany to Buffalo, nearly on 
the same line with the Central Railroad. 

Sclaeiaectatly. — Hotels, Carlcy 
(late Eagle), GiverrCs Hotel. At Schenec- 
tady the railways from Albany and Troy 
meet, and the Saratoga route diverges. 
Schenectady is upon the right bank of 
the Mohawk River. It is one of the oldest 
towns in the State, and is distinguished 
as the seat of Union College, founded in 
1795. The council-grounds of the Mo- 
hawks once formed the site of the present 
town. A trading-post was estabhshed 
by the Dutch as early as 1620. In the 
winter of 1690 a party of 200 Frenchmen 
and Canadians,, and 50 Indians, fell at 
midnight upon Schenectady, killed and 
made captive its people, and burned the 
village to ashes. 69 persons were then 
massacred, and 27 were made prisoners. 
The church and 63 houses were destroyed. 
It was afterward taken in the French 
war of 1748, when about 70 people were 
put to death. Population upward of 
10,000. 

Leaving Schenectady the road crosses 
the Mohawk River and the Erie Canal, 
upon a bi'idge nearly 1,000 feet in length. 

ff*alatiiie Bridge (55 miles) ; 
passengers for Sharon Springs take stage 
10 miles. (See Sharon Springs.) 

At ff'ori l?lsiiii (68 miles), passen- 
gers for Otsego Lake, Cooperstown, and 
Cherry Valley, proceed by stage. 

tfittie i^alls is remarkable for a 
bold passage of the Mohawk River and 
Erie Canal through a wild and most pictu- 
resque defile. The scenery, embracing the 
river, rapids, and cascades, the locks and 
windings of the canal, the bridges, and 
the glimpses far away of the valley of the 
Mohawk, are especially beautiful. 

Utica. — Hotels, Baggs's, at the de- 
pot, and the National. Utica is a large, 
flourishing, . and handsome town on the 
south side of the Mohawk River. The 
Erie Canal and the Central Railway pass 
through the centre of the city. It con- 
tains several handsome buildings, among 
v,'hich are the City Hall and State Ltmatic 
Asylum. It is built upon the site of old 
Fort Schuyler, and has now a population 
of 25,000. 



Geneva.], 



NEW YORK. 



[Koch ESTER. 



SyracM.se. — Hotels, the Globe, 
the Syracuse, the Onondaga. At Syra- 
cuse, 148 miles from Albany, the Central 
road connects by rail with Binghamton 
on the Erie route, and with Oswego, 35 
miles northward. It is pleasantly situ- 
ated on the south end of Onondaga Lake. 
The most extensive salt manufactories in 
the United States are found here. It is 
famous, too, as the meeting- place of State, 
political, and other conventions. Incor- 
porated as a village in 1825, and as a city 
in 1848. It has a population of 35,000. 

Aia"biirHi, the capital of Cayuga 
County, is delightfully situated near 
Owasco Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 
12 miles in length, which liuds its outlet 
through the town. It is well laid out, and 
the streets are pleasantly shaded. The 
State Prison is a massive stone structure. 
The Theological Seminary and Acadeiny 
are prominent institutions. The former, 
founded in 1821, has a fine library. Gen- 
esee Street is the principal busmess thor- 
oughfare. Auburn has long been the resi- 
dence of Mr. Seward, present Secretary 
of State. 

Skeneateles, six miles distant, is a man- 
ufacturing point of some importance. It 
lies at the foot of Skeneateles Lake, a 
charming water, 16 miles long,with pic- 
turesque shores, and good supplies of 
trout and other fish. A steamboat plies 
on the lake during the summer. 

Cayuga is a pleasant village upon the 
eastern shore of Cayuga Lake. Ithaca is 
38 miles off, at the other extremity of 
I the lake. These fine waters are trav- 
ersed daily by steamboat, connecting 
Cayuga wdth Ithaca. Railway to Owego, 
on the New York and Erie route. 

Seneca Falls, 42 miles west of Syra- 
cuse, is pleasantly situated at the outlet 
of Seneca Lake, which is one of the 
largest and most beautiful of the lakes 
of Western New York. It is 40 miles 
long, and from two to four wide. It 
is very deep, and never freezes over. 
Steamboats run between Jefferson, at the 
south end of the lake, and Geneva, at the 
noi'th end. 

CJeneva. is a floui-ishing city of 
nearly 7,000 people. It is on the Central 
Railway, midway between Syracuse and 
Rochester. It is the seat of the Ilobart 
Free College (founded under the direction 



of the Episcopalians in 1823) ; also of the 
Medical Institute of Geneva College, and 
the Geneva Union School. 

Canandalgua is a beautiful town, at 
the north end of Canandaigua Lake, 29 
miles east of Rochester. The railroad 
from Elmira, on the New York and Erie 
route to Niagara Falls, passes through 
Canandaigua. Incorporated in 1815, it 
now contains 6,000 people. The lake is 
about 15 miles in length, and is well 
stocked with fish. 

ISocliester. Hotels : the Osburn 
(new), the Brackett, and the Congress 
Hotels, are among the many excellent 
houses here. 

Rochester is the largest and most im 
portant city upon our present route be- 
tween Albany and Buffalo, its population 
being 65,000. It was settled in 1812, 
ajid named after Col. Nathaniel Roches- 
ter. It is the seat of the Rochester Uni- 
versity, founded by the Baptists in 1850. 
There is also here a Baptist Theological 
Seminary, founded in 1850. The Roches- 
ter Aihenwum has a library of 14,000 
volumes. Among its picturesque attrac- 
tio)is, are the Falls of Genesee, upon 
both sides of which river the city is built. 
The Moimtllope Cemetery, in the vicinity, 
IS also a spot of much natural beauty. 
St. Mary^s Hosjyital is an imi^osing edifice 
of cut stone, with accommodation for 
IjOOO patients. The cut-stone aqueduct 
by which the Erie Canal is carried across 
the Genesee River is worthy of notice. 
Rochester is connected by railway with 
the New York and Erie route at Cor- 
ning, and with Niagara Falls direct, by 
the Rochester, Lockport, and Niagara 
Falls division of the New York Central 
road (see p. 58), and by steamboats, v/ith 
all ports on Lake Ontario. 

The Genesee Falls are seen to the best 
advantage from the east side of the 
stream. The railroad cars pass about 100 
rods south of the most southerly fall on 
the Genesee River, so that passengers in 
crossing lose the view. To see the scene 
properly, the visitor will cross the bridge 
over the Genesee above the mill, and 
place himself iiiimediately in front of the 
fall. This railway bridge is 800 feet 
long and 234 feet high. Some distance be- 
yond, a stairway conducts to the bottom 
of the ravine, whence you may pass in a 
57 



BOFFALO.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Niagara Falls. 



boat, or pick your way aloug beneath the 
spray of the tumbling floods. The walls 
Df this gorge are of slate-stoue ; they rise 
bo a height of more than 300 feet, and in 
the many and sudden turnings of the 
way, offer a grateful suecession of noble 
pictures. These falls have three perpen- 
dicular pitches and two rapids ; the first 
2;reat cataract is 80 rods below the aque- 
duct, the stream plunging pei'pendicular- 
ly 96 feet The ledge here recedes up 
the river from the centre to the sides, 
breaking the water into three distinct 
sheets. From 2hble Hock, in the centre 
3f these falls, Sam Patch made his last 
md fatal leap. The river below the first 
cataract is broad and deep, with occa- 
sional rapids to the second fall, where it 
igain descends perpendicularly 20 feet, 
rhence the river pursues its course, which 
s noisy, swift, and rapid, to the third 
md last fall, over which it pours its flood 
iown a perpendicular descent of 105 
feet. Below this fall are numerous rap- 
ids, which continue to Carthage, the end 
Df navigation on the Genesee River from 
Lake Ontario. The Post-Office at the 
kfillage of Genesee Falls is called Portage- 
ville. Portage Station is on the Buffalo 
aranch of the New York and Erie Rail- 
road, 30 miles from Hornellsville. 

SlMlIislo. — Hotels, the Ilansion, 
^{If's, and the Atnerican. 

This important commercial and man- 
.ifacturiug city has grown so great and so 
fast, that although it was laid out as late 
IS 1801, and in 1813 had only 200 
biouses, its population now numbers 145,- 
)00. It was incorporated in 1832, and 
:n 1852 the charter was amended so as 
to include Black Rock. The city has a 
(vater-front of five miles in extent, and is 
divided into 13 wards. The city is gen- 
3rally well built, its streets being broad 
md straight, and intersecting each other 
it right angles. Main, Delaware, and Ni- 
igara Streets, are the principal thorough- 
Fares. The public squares are five in 
aumber, and are respectively named 
Niagara, Lafayette Place, Washington, 
Franklin, Delaware, and Terrace Parks. 
A.mong the principal public buildings are 
ihe City Hall, Penitentiary, U. S. Cus- 
'.om-House and Post-Office, Coicrt-Hoiise, 
Tail, State Arsenal, and Market-Houses. 
A.mong the prominent literary, education- 
58 



al, and charitable institutions of Buffalo, 
are the Buffalo Univei-sity, and Medical 
School, chartered in 1846 ; the Young 
Mert^s Association, with a library of 
13,000 volumes ; the Buffalo Female 
Academy, on Delaware Street ; the Buffalo 
and St. Vincent's Orphan Asylum; the 
City and Marine Hosjntals, the latter 
founded in 1833; the Hospital of the 
Sisters of Charity, etc. The city has 
extensive manufactures of iron, being 
second only to Pittsburg in that impor- 
tant branch of industry. 

The commerce of Buffalo with the 
West, by means of the great lakes, is large 
and growing. She has 30 grain ware- 
houses, with a capacity of 6,000,000 
bushels of grain. 

Buffalo has immediate connection with 
Niagara Falls (22 miles), five times daily, 
via Black Rock and Tonawanda ; but as 
the route from Rochester, via Lockport, 
is 14 miles shorter, and is generally pre- 
ferred by travellers from New York and 
Albany, we will glance at that before 
visiting the Falls. 



ROCHESTER, LOCKPORT, AND 
NIAGARA FALLS 

Dimsimi of N. T. Central R, R. 

Stations. — Eochester ; Spencerport, 
10; Brockport, 17; Albion, 31; Medina, 
40 ; Middleport, 45 ; Lockport, 56 ; Lock- 
port Junction, 59 ; Suspension Bridge, 
'75 ; Niagara Falls, VV. 

Brockjwrt, Monroe County, on the 
Erie Canal, IV miles west of Rochester, 
is famous for its pump manufactures. 

Albion, the seat of justice of Orleans 
County, is a place of considerable trade, 
with a population of 2,000. 

Lockjwrt, 21 miles east of Niagara 
Falls, is a thriving town in the midst of 
a rich agricultural region. It is famous 
for its limestone quarries and its manu- 
facture of flour. Its 23opulation is 15,00Q, 
and increasing. The roar of the great 
cataract can be heard here in favorable 
conditions of the atmosphere. 

Miag-ai-a Falls. — Hotels, upon 
the American side of the river, the Cat- 
aract House and the International Hotel 
are most excellent homes for the tourist. 



NiAGAKA Falls.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Niagara Falls. 



On the Canada side, the Clifton is an ex- 
cellent house. 

Routes: From New York, via Hud- 
son River or Hudson River Railroad, 
to Albany, 144 miles ; from Albany to 
Buffalo, via N. Y. Central R. R., 298 
miles ; from Buffalo, by Buffalo, Niagara 
Falls, and Lewjston R. R., 22 miles. Total, 
464 miles. Same to Rochester, 37B miles ; 
and tlience by Rochester, Lockport, and 
Niagara R. R., 7*7 miles. Total, 450 miles. 
From New York, via New York and Erie 
E. R., to Bufflilo, 422 miles ; Buffalo (as 
above), by Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lew- 
iston R. R. (to Niagara), 22 miles. Total, 
444 miles. From New York, by New York 
and Erie R. R. to Elmira, 274 miles ; 
from Elmira to Niagara, by Elmira, Oan- 
andaigua, and Niagara Falls R. R., 166 
miles. Total, 440 miles. From New 
York to Albany, by Hudson River, 144 
miles ; thence to Troy, six miles. Rail- 
way from Troy to Whitehall, 65 miles ; 
from Whitehall by steamer on Lake 
Champlain, to St. Johns, 150 miles ; St. 
Johns to La Prairie Railroad, 15 miles ; 
La Prairie, by steamboat on the St. Law- 
rence to Montreal, nine miles ; from 
Montreal (Grand Trunk Railroad and 
other lines to Niagara), railroad and steam- 
boat, 436 miles. Total, 727 miles. 

The falls are situated on the river of 
the same name, a strait connecting the 
floods of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and di- 
viding a portion of the State of New York 
on the west from the Province of Canada. 
The cataracts thus lie within the terri- 
tory both of Great Britain and the 
United States. They are some 20 miles 
below the entrance of the river, at the 
northeast extremity of Lake Erie, and 
about 14 miles above its junction with 
Lake Ontario. 

The River Niagara (signifying in the 
Iroquois language " Thunder of Waters") 
takes its rise in the western extremity of 
Lake Erie, and after flowing 33| miles 
enters Lake Ontario, which is 334 feet 
below Lake Erie. The waters for which 
the Niagara is the outlet, cover an area 
of 150,000 square miles — ^floods so grand 
and inexhaustible as to be utterly uncon- 
scious of the loss of the hundred mil- 
lions of tons which they pour every hour, 
through succeeding centuries, over these 
stupendous precipices. 



The Approach.— ThQ best approach to 
the Falls is that most usually taken, viz., 
by the American shore. " The descent 
of about 200 feet, by the staircase, brings 
the traveller directly under the shoulder 
and edge of the American Fall, the most 
imposing scene, for a single object, that 
he probably has ever witnessed. The long 
column of sparkluig water seems, as he 
stands near it, to descend to an immeas- 
urable depth, and the bright sea-green 
curve above has the appearance of being 
set into the sky. The tremendous power 
of the Fall, as well as the height, realizes 
"his utmost expectations. He descends to 
the water's edge and embarks in a ferry- 
boat, which tosses like an egg-shell on the 
heaving and convulsed water, and in a 
minute or two he finds himself in the face 
of the vast line of the Falls, and sees with 
surprise that he has expended his fullest 
admiration and astonishment upon a mere 
thread of Niagara — the thousandth part 
of its wondrous volume and grandeur. 
From the point where he crosses to Table 
Rock, the line of the Falls measures three- 
quarters of a mile in length ; and it is this 
immense extent which, more than any 
other feature, takes the traveller by sur- 
prise. The current at the ferry sets very 
strongly down, and the athletic men who 
are employed here keep the boat up 
against it with difiiculty. Arrived near 
the opposite landing, however, there is a 
slight counter-cuiTcnt, and the large rocks 
near the shore serve as a breakwater, be- 
hind which the boat runs smoothly to her 
moorings." The passage is now safely 
and pleasantly made \)j the steamer 
"Maid of the. Mist." 

It is from the American side of the 
river that access is had to the hundred 
points of interest and surprise in the 
famous Goat Island vicinage, with its con- 
necting bridges, its views of the Rapids, 
of the Cave of the Winds, of the scene 
of Sam Patch's great leap, and of its bold 
overtopping tower; and in other neigh- 
borhoods of the Whirlpool, of tlie Chasm 
Tower, and the Devil's Hole. 

A totally different and not less wonder- 
ful gallery of natural master-pieces is 
opened upon the Canada shore — the ter- 
rible marvels of the Table Rock above, 
and of Termination Rock behind the 
mighty Horse-Shoe Fall ; the noble pano- 
59 



s^iAGAKA Falls.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Niagara Falls. 



ama from the piazzas of the Clifton 
louse, the Burning Spring, the historical 
•illage of Chippewa, and the battle-field 
)f Lundj's Lane, Bender's Cave, etc. 

Goat Idand. (American side. ) — Leav- 
ng the Cataract House, take the first left- 
land street, two minutes' walk to the 
)ridge, which leads to the toll-gate on 
3ath Island. This bridge is itself an ob- 
ject of wonder, in its apparently rash 
md dangerous position. It is, however, 
jerfectlv safe, and is crossed hourly by 
leavy-laden carriages. 

The Rapids, as seen on the way to 
[ioat Island, are impressive The river 
lescends 51 feet in a distance of three- 
luarters of a mile by this inextrica- 
Aq turmoil of waters. It is one of the 
nost striking features of the Niagara 
scenery. Standing on the bridge, and 
razing thence up the angry torrent, the 
eaping crests seem like " a battle-charge 
)f tempestuous waves animated and in- 
'uriated against the sky. Nearer the 
)lunge of the Fall, the Kapids become 
^lill more agitated, and it is impossible 
br the spectator to rid himself of the 
dea that they are conscious of the abyss 
which they are hurrying, and struggle 
jack in the very extremity of horror, 
rhis propensity to invest Niagara with a 
;oul and human feelings is a common ef- 
ect upon the minds of visitors, in every 
^art of its wonderful phenomena. The 
orture of the Rapids, the clinging curves 
vith which they embrace the small rocky 
slands that live amid the surge ; the sud- 
len calmness at the brow of the cataract, 
md the infernal writhe and whiteness 
vith which they reappear, powerless, 
Tom the depths of the abyss — aU seem, 
the excited imagination of the gazer, 
ike the natural effects of impending ruin 
—desperate resolution and fearful agony 
m the minds and frames of mortals." 

Chapin\ Island is upon the right of the 
jridge, within a short distance of the 
imcriean Fall. It is named in memory 
)f a workman whose life was imperilled 
)y falUng into the stream, as be was 
aboring upon the bridge. Mr. Robinson 
vent gall;mtly and successfully to his re- 
ief in a skiff. 

The Toll Gate is upon Bath Island, 
vhere baths, warm and otherwise, are ac- 
;essible at all times to visitors. A fee 
60 



of 25 cents paid here, gives you the free- 
dom of Goat Island, during all your stay, 
be it for the year or less. Near this 
point are Ship and Big Islands. There 
is here a very extensive paper-mill. 
Crossing another small bridge, wc stand 
upon Iris Island. (See Prospect Tower.) 
The only place of habitation here is a 
house at which the traveller can supply 
himself with refreshments of aU inviting 
kinds, and store his trimks with every 
variety of samples of Indian ingenuity 
and labor. The place is called the Indian 
Emporium. Three routes over the island 
diverge at this point. The principal path 
followed by most visitors is that to the 
right, which keeps the best of the sights, 
as Wisdom always does, until the last ; 
affording less striking views of the Falls 
than do the other routes at first, but far 
surpassing them both in its graiMA finale. 
This way conducts to the foot of the 
island, while the left-hand path seeks 
the head, and the middle winds across. 
Taking the right-hand path, then, fi-om 
the Toll Gate, we come, first, to the 
centre Fall, called Uie Cave of the Winds 
(see TERMiirATiox Rock), mid-distant 
nearly between the American and the 
Horse-Shoe FaUs. This wonderful scene 
is best and most securely enjoyed from 
the spacious flat rock beneath. The cave 
is 100 feet high, and of the same extent 
in width. You can pass safely into the 
recess behind the water, to a platform 
beyond. Magical rainbow-pictures are 
formed at this spot ; sometimes bows of 
entire circles, and two or three at once, 
are seen. At the foot of Goat Island the 
Three Profiles form an object of curious 
interest. These profiles, seemingly some 
two feet long, are to be seen, one directly 
above the other, as you look across the 
first sheet of water, directly under the 
lowest point of rock. They are some- 
times called the Tlirce Sisters. 

Ltma Island i& reached by a foot bridge, 
from the right of Goat Island. It has an 
area of some three-quarters of an acre. 
The effective rainbow forms, seen at this 
point, have given it the name it bears. 
A child of eight years once fell into the 
torrent at this point, and was lost, to- 
gether with a gallant lad who jumped in 
to rescue her. Biddle's Stairs, on th<» 
west side of the island, was named after 



Horse-Shoe Fall.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Niagara Falls. 



Nicholas Biddle, of United States Bank 
ifame, by whose order they were built. 
" Make us something," he is reported to 
have said to the workmen, " by which 
we may descend and see what is below." 
At the base of these spiral stairs, which 
are secured to the rocks by strong iron 
fastenings, there are two diverging paths. 
The up river way, toward the Horse-Shoe 
Fall, is difficult, and much obstructed by 
fallen rocks ; but down the current a 
noble view is gained of the centre Fall or 
Cave of the Winds. Sam PatcKs Leap. 
— It was upon the west side of Goat 
Island, near Biddle's Stairs, that the re- 
nowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two 
successful leaps into the waters below, 
saying, as he went off, to the throng of 
spectators, that " one thing might be done 
as well as another ! " The fellow made 
one jump too much, within the same year 
(1829), over the Genesee Falls, at lioch- 
ester. 

Reascending the Biddle Stairs, we 
come, after a few rods' travel, to a resting- 
place at a little house, and thence we go 
down the bank, and crossing a bridge, 
reach Prospect [Terrapin) Tovier. This 
precarious placed edifice, which seems 
to have " rushed in, as fools do, where 
angels fear to tread," is on Iris Island. 
very near the edge of the precipice, 
above which it rises some 45 feet in the 
air. From the top, which is surrounded 
by an iron railing, a magnificent scene is 
presented — a panorama of the Niagara 
wonders — the like of which can be seen 
from n.0 other point. Here a register for 
visitors is kept. 

Tlte Moi°ge=.S5]ioe Fall— al- 
ways marvellous from whatever position it 
is viewed — forms the connecting link be- 
tween the scenes of the American and 
Canadian sides of the river. This mighty 
cataract is 144 rods across, and it is said 
by Prof. Lyell that fifteen hundred mil- 
lions of cubic feet of water pass over 
its ledges every hour. One of the con- 
demned lake ships (the Detroit) was sent 
over this fall in 1829, and, though she 
drew 18 feet of water, she did not touch 
the rocks in jDassing over the brink of 
the precipice, showing a solid body of 
water, at least some 20 feet deep, to be 
above the ledge. We shall return to the 
Horse-Shoe Fall from the Canada side. 



Gull Island, just above, is an unap- 
proachable spot, upon which it is not 
likely or possible that man has ever yet 
stood. There are three other small isles 
seen from here, called the Three Sisters. 
Near the Three Sisters, on Goat Island, 
is the spot remembered as the resort of 
an eccentric character, and called, after 
him, the Bathing-Place of Francis Abbott 
t':e Hermit. At the head of Goat Island 
is Navy Island, near the Canada shore. It 
was the scene of incidents in the Cana- 
dian rebellion of 1837-'38, known as the 
McKenzie War. Chippewa, which held 
at that period some 5,000 British troops, 
is upon the Canadian shore, nearly oppo- 
site. It was near Fort Schlosser, bard 
by, that, about this period, the A.merican 
steamboat Carohne, was set on fire, and 
sent over the falls, by the order of Col. 
McNabb, a British oflScer. Some frag- 
ments of the wreck lodged on Gull Island, 
where they remained until the following 
spring. 

Grand Island, which contains 11,000 
acres, was the spot on which Major M. M. 
Noah hoped to assemble all the Hebrew 
populations of the world. Near the ferry 
there was once an observatory or pago- 
da, 100 feet high, from which a gi'and 
view of the region was gained. This spot 
is called Point View. 

The Whirlpool. — Three miles below 
the Falls (American side) is the Whirl- 
pool, resembling in its appearance the 
celebrated Maelstrom on the coast of 
Norway. It is occasioned .by the river 
making nearly a right angle, while it is 
here narrower than at any other place, 
not being more than 30 rods wide, and 
the current running with such velocity 
as to rise up in the middle 10 feet above 
the sides. This has been ascertained by 
measurement. There is a path leading 
down the bank to the Whirlpool on both 
sides, and, though somewhat difficult to 
descend and ascend, it is accomplished 
almost every day. 

The Pevil's Hole is a mile below the 
Whirlpool. It embraces about two acres, 
cut out laterally and perpendicularly in 
the rock by the side of the river, and is 
150 feet deep. An angle of this hol'e or 
gulf comes within a few feet of the stage- 
road, affiardiug travellers an opportunity, 
without alighting, of looking into the 
61 



JllASM TOWEE.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Table Rock, 



'awning abyss. But they should alight, 
ind pass to the farther side of the fiat 
)rojecting rock, where tliey wiU feel 
hemselves richly repaid for their trouble, 
nto the Devil's Ilole falls a stream 
mown by the unpoetical name of the 
3loo(hj Run. 

Cliasiu Xo"*ver, three and a half 
uiles below the Falls, is '75 feet high, and 
lommands fine views (seen, if you please, 
n all hues, through a specular medium) 
)f all the country round. A fee is re- 
[uired. The . Suapension Bridge spans 
he river two miles below the Falls. Its 
otal length, from centre to centre of the 
owers, is 800 feet ; its height above the 
vater, 258 feet. The first bridge, which 
vas built by Mr. Charles Ellett, was a 
'ery light and fairy-hke affair, in com- 
)arison with the present substantial 
itructure. The bridge, as it now stands, 
vas constructed under the direction of 
Av. John A. Roebling, at a cost of $500,- 
)00. The same able architect and en- 
;ineer is now engaged on the suspension 
)ridge across the Ohio, at Cincinnati, 
[he towers are 66 feet high, 15 feet 
iquare at the base, aud 8 feet at the top. 
Che bridge is supported by four cables, 
iach being nine and a half inches in diam- 
iter, and composed of 8,000 wires. It 
vas first crossed by the locomotive March 
5, 1855. Twenty-eight feet below the 
loor of the railway tracks a carriage aud 
botway is suspended. This bridge is 
ised at present by the New York Cen- 
i-al, the Erie, and the Great Western 
Canada) roads. Having examined the 
jridge, we will now cross it to the oppo- 
site shore. Taking a carriage at our 
lotel, on the American side, we may 
' do " the Canadian shore very comfort- 
ibly between breakfast and dinner, if we 
lave no more time to spare. The reg- 
ilar price of carriage hire at the livery 
stables is one dollar per hour. Make your 
jontract when you engage, as overcharges 
ire fashionable. On the plank road, going 
md returning, the toll is five cents ; at 
he bridge, for each foot passenger, going 
md returning the same day, 25 cents, or 
12 J each way. If the passenger does 
lot return, the bridge toll is still 25 cents. 
5'or each carriage (two horses), going and 
-eturning, 50 cents for each passenger, 
md 50 cents besides for the carriage. 
62 



A plank road leads from the opposite 
terminus of the bridge to the Cliftou 
House. At the bridge is shown a basket 
in which Mr. Ellett, his wife, and other 
ladies and gentlemen, crossed over the 
river, on a single wire, about one inch iu 
cUameter. A perilous journey across 
such a gorge and at an elevation in the 
air of 280 feet ! Two or three persons 
thus crossed at a time, the basket being 
let down on an inclined plane to the cen- 
tre of the towers (this was duiing the 
building of the first suspension bridge), 
and then di-awn up by the help of a wind- 
lass to the opposite side. The usual 
time in crossing was from three to four 
minutes. By the means of this basket 
the lives of four men were once saved, 
when the planks of the foot bridge were 
blown off in a violent storm, aud they 
were suspended over the river by only 
two strands of wire, which oscillated, with 
immense rapidity, 60 or 70 feet. The 
basket was sent to their relief, at a mo- 
ment when the hurricane grew less fear- 
ful, and they descended into it by means 
of a ladder, one at a trip only, until all 
were released from their terrible position. 
The exploits of Blondin and Leslie, with 
which our readers are all doubtless fa- 
miliar, have since thrown these ventures 
far in the shade. 

Bender^s Cave is midway between the 
Suspension Bridge and the Clifton House. 
It is a recess sis feet high and twenty in 
length, made by a decomposition of the 
limestone. 

The Clifton House is an old and very 
favorite resort here, famed for its home 
luxuries and for its noble position, over- 
looking the river and Falls. It was the 
residence of Mdlle. Jenny Lind during 
her visit to Niagara. It stands nearly 
opposite the centre of the irregular cres- 
cent formed by the Falls ; but it is so far 
back from the line of the arc, that the 
height and grandeur of the two cataracts, 
to an eye unacquainted with the scene, 
are respectively diminished. After once 
making the tour of the points of view, 
however, the distance and elevation of 
the hotel are allowed for by the eye, and 
the situation seems most advantageous. 

Table Rock exists now only in name, 
and the sort of posthumous interest 
which attaches to the spot where it stood. 



Termination Rock.] 



NEW YORK. 



[The Museum. 



The grand overhanging platform called 
Table Rock, and the fearful abysmal 
scene at the very base ofthe mighty Horse- 
Shoe Fall, once constituted one of the 
cardinal wonders of Niagara. This fa- 
mous rock fell in 1862, but the vicinity is 
still a place much resorted to by visitors 
at the Falls. If one would listen to the 
terrible noise of the great cataract, let 
him come here, where the sound of its 
hoarse utterance drowns all lesser sounds, 
and his own speech is inaudible to him- 
self. 

Termination Mock occupies a recess 
behind the centre of the Horse-Shoe Fall, 
reached by the descent of a spiral stair- 
way from Table Rock, the traverse for a 
short distance of the rude marge of the 
river, and then of a narrow path over a 
frightful ledge and through the blinding 
spray, behind the mighty Fall. Before de- 
scending visitors should make a com- 
plete change of toilet for a rough costume 
more suitable for the stormy and rather 
damp journey before them. When fully 
equipped, their ludicrous appearance ex- 
cites for a while a mirthful feeling, in 
singular contrast with the solemn senti- 
ment of all the scene around them. This 
strange expedition, often made even by 
ladies, has been thus described : " The 
guide went before, and we followed close 
under the cliif. A cold, clammy wind 
blew strong in our faces from the mo- 
ment we left the shelter of the staircase, 
and a few steps brought us into a pelting- 
fine rain, that penetrated every opening 
of our dresses and made our foothold 
very slippery and difficult. We were not 
yet near the sheet of water we were to 
walk through ; but one or two of the 
party gave out and returned, declaring 
it was impossible to breathe ; and the 
rest, imitating the guide, bent nearly 
double to keep the beating spray from 
theii nostrils, and pushed on, with enough 
to do to keep sight of his heels. We ar- 
rived near the difficult point of our prog- 
ress ; and in the midst of a confusion 
of blinding gusts, half deafened, and 
more than half drowned, the guide stop- 
,ped to give us a hold of his skirts and a 
jlittle counsel. All that could be heard 
amid the thunder of the cataract beside 
;us was an injunction to push on when it 
Igot to the worst, as it was shorter to get 



beyond 'the sheet than to go back; and 
with this pleasant statement of our dilem- 
ma, we faced about with the longest 
breath we could draw, and encountered 
the enemy. It may be supposed that 
every person who has been dragged 
through the column of water which ob- 
structs the entrance to the cavern behind 
this cataract, has a very tolerable idea of 
the pains of drowning. What is wanting 
in the density of the element is more 
than made up by the force of the con- 
tending winds, which rush into the 
mouth, eyes, and nostrils, as if flying 
from a water-fiend. The ' courage of 
worse behind ' alone persuades the gasp- 
ing sufferer to take one desperate step 
more." 

The Museum, near Table Rock, con- 
tains more then 10,000 specimens of 
minerals, birds, fishes, and animals, many 
of which were collected in the neighbor- 
hood of the Falls. Admittance — which 
includes the use of the dress and admis- 
sion to the Cave of the Winds, 50 cents. 
The Burning Spring is near the water, 
two miles above the Falls. The carbon- 
ated sulphuretted hydrogen gas here 
gives out a brilliant flame when lighted. 
The height of the American Fall is 164 
feet, that of the Canadian or Horse-shoe 
150 feet. The former is 900 feet across, 
the latter 1,900. The roar ofthe waters 
has been heard at Toronto, 44 miles 
away, and yet in some states of wind and 
atmosphere it is scarcely perceptible in 
the immediate neighborhood. Niagara 
presents a new and most unique as- 
pect in winter, when huge icicles hang 
from the precipices, and immense frozen 
piles of a thousand fantastic shapes glit- 
ter in the bright sunlight. Father Hen- 
nepin, a Jesuit missionary, was the first 
European who ever saw Niagara. His 
visit was in IG^S. 

In the vicinity of Niagara is Leivis- 
ton, seven miles distant, at the head of 
navigation on Lake Ontario — and di- 
rectly opposite Lewiston is Queenstown. 
Queenstown is well worthy a visit 
from the sojourner at the Falls, and af- 
fords a most delightful drive. It is his- 
torically as well as pictorially interesting. 
Here General Brock and his aide-de-camp 
McDonnell fell, October 11, 1812. 
Brock''a Monument, which crowns the 
63 



jAUANAC Lakes.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Paranac Lakks. 



ieij;;lits above the village, is 185 feet 
ligli, surmounted by a dome of nine feet, 
ivliich is reaehed by a sjiiral fliglit of 250 
Jteps from tlie base inside. Tlie remains 
)t' Brocli and his comrade lie in stone 
sarcophagi beneath, having been re- 
uoved thither from Fort George. This 
s the second monument erected on the 
;pot, the first having been destroyed by 
[jett, in 1840. 



MOUTE VII. 

THE ADinOKBACK MOUNTAINS, SAB- 
ANAG LAKES, ETC. 

{For rcmies, seep. 66.) 

The upper part of the State of New 
York, hing west and south of Lake 
['hamplain and the St. Lawrence River, 
i-espectively, is still a wild primitive for- 
est region, of the highest interest to the 
tourist for its wonderful natural beauties, 
and for the ample facilities it offers for 
the pleasures of the rod and the rifle. 
Fine mountain-peaks stud the whole 
region, and charming lakes and lakelets 
are so abundant that travel here is made 
by water instead of by land — traversing 
the pouds in row-boats or canoes, which 
ire carried by easy portage from one lovely 
brook or lake to another. Deer fill the 
woods, and trout are found in the trans- 
parent floods everywhere. This wilder- 
Qess land is visited at various points 
under distinctive names, as the hunting- 
grounds of the Saranacs, of the Chateau- 
gay woods, of the Adirondacks, and of 
Lake Pleasant, etc. We shall speak of 
these several divisions, briefly, in order. 

The Saranac Lakes. — These wonder- 
ful links of the great chain of mountain 
waters in upper New York are about a 
dozen in number, large and small. They 
lie principally in Franklin County, and 
may be most readily reached by stage 
from Westport or from Keeseville, about 
midway on the western shore of Lake 
Champlain— taking stage or private con- 
veyance thence (30 miles) to the banks 
of the Lower Saranac — which is the 
outer edge of civilization in this direction. 
From Port Kent, on Lake Champlain, to 
the foot of the Lower Saranac, is an easy 
64 



day's journey. There is a little village 
and an inn or two at this point, and here 
guides and boats, with all proper camp 
equipage for forest life, maybe procured. 
£aker''s, two miles from the Lower Sar- 
anac, and Martini, are pleasant stopping 
places. For this route the tourist must 
engage a boatman, who, for a compensa- 
tion of two or three dollars per day — the 
price will be no more if he should have 
extra passengers— rwill provide a boat, 
with tent and kitchen apparatus, dogs, 
rifles, etc. The tourist will supply, be- 
fore starting, such stores as coffee, tea, 
biscuit, etc., and the sport by the way, 
conducted by himself or by his guide, will 
keep him furnished with trout and ven- 
ison. If camp life should not please 
him, he may, with some little incon- 
venience, so measure and direct his move- 
ments as to sleep in some one or other of 
the shanties of the hunters, or of the 
lumbermen found here and there on the 
way. The tent in the forest, however, is 
preferable. 

Returning from St. Regis, and back 
via the Upper to the Middle Saranac, we 
continue ouv journey, by portage, to the 
Stony Crieic ponds — thence three miles 
by Stony Creek to the Racquette River — 
a rapid stream, with wonderful forest 
vegetation upon its banks. This water 
followed for some 20 miles brings us 
to Tujype')-''s Lake — the finest part of 
the Saranac region. Tupper's Lake is 
the largest of -this chain, being seven 
miles long, and from one to two miles 
broad. The shores and headlands and 
islands are especially picturesque and 
bold, and at this point the deer is much 
more easily found than elsewhere in the 
neighborhood. Below Tupper's Lake — 
the waters commingling — is Lovc/Jmeali, 
another charming pond. The chain con- 
tinues on yet for miles, but the Saranac 
trip, proper, ends here. This mountain 
voyage and the return to Lake Champlain 
might be made in a week, but two or 
three, or even more, should be given to 
it. It is seldom that ladies make the 
excursion, but they might do so with 
great delight. The boatmen and hunters 
of the region are fine, hearty, intelligent 
and obliging fellows. That wonderful 
ravine, the "Walled Banks of the Au 
Sable," (see Index) should be seen by 



i 
i 



Adirondack Mountains.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Lake Pleasant. 



the Sarauac tourist on his way from Lake 
Champlain to Keeseville. Hammond, in 
his excellent work, " Hills, Lakes, and 
Forest Streams," gives an excellent route 
from Dannemora, in Clinton County, via 
Chazy Lake, Bradley's Pond, the Upper 
Chateaugay, Ragged Lake, Indian and 
Meacham Lakes, Big Clear Bond, St. Regis 
Lake to the Upper Saranac. 

Leaving the Lower Saranac, we will pass 
pleasantly along some half-dozen miles — 
then make a short portage, the guide 
carrying the huge boat by a yoke on the 
back, to the Middle Saranac — there we 
may go on to the upper lake of the same 
name, and thence by a long portage of 
three miles to Lake St. Regis. These are 
all large and beautiful waters, full of pict- 
uresque islands, and hemmed in upon all 
sides by fine mountain ranges. Trout 
may be taken readily at the inlets of all 
the brooks, and deer may be found in the 
forests almost at will. 

taisas. — The Adirondack region em- 
braces the eastern portion of the pla- 
teau which forms the Wilderness of 
Northern New York. It may be reached 
by private conveyance over a rude moun- 
tain-road from Schroon Lake, above 
Tiake George, or more conveniently 
from Crown Point village, just beyond 
the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake 
Champlain. The distance thence is some 
30 miles, and requires a day to travel. 
The tourist in this region will move about 
by land more than by water, as among 
the Saranacs ; for, although the lakes are 
numerous enough, it is among and upon 
the hills that the chief attractions are to 
be found. The accommodations, though 
still rude enough, are much better than in 
former years. Stopping at this point, as 
headquarters, he may make a pleasant 
journey down Lake Sandford near by, on 
one side, and upon Lake Henderson on the 
other hand. In one water he ought to 
troll for pickerel, and in the other cast 
his fly for trout ; and upon both enjoy 
the noble glimpses of the famous moun- 
tain-peaks of the Adirondack group, the 
cliffs of the G-r eat Indian Pass, of Mount 
Volden, McJntyre, Echo Mountain, and 
other bold scenes. It will be a day's 
jaunt for him afterward to explore the 
wild gorge of the Indian Pass, five miles 



distant ; another day's work to visit the 
dark and weird waters of Avalanche 
Lake; and yet another to reach the 
Preston Ponds, five miles in a different 
direction. He will find, indeed, occupa- 
tion enough for many days, in exploring 
'these and many other points, which we 
cannot now catalogue. In any event he 
must have two days to do the tramp, par 
excellence, of the Adirondacks, to visit 
the summit of Tahawus, or Movmt Marcy, 
the monarch of the region. Tahawus is 
12 miles away, and the ascent is extremely 
toilsome. The Adirondacks (named after 
the Indian nation which once inhabited 
these fastnesses) lie chiefly in the county 
of Essex, though they extend outside the 
limits of that county. Mount Marcy, or 
Tahawus, " the Cloud Splitter," is 5,46*7 
feet high. Mount Mclntyre has an ele- 
vation almost as great. The Dial Moun- 
tain, McMartin, and Colden are also very 
lofty peaks, impressively seen from the 
distance, and- inexhaustible in the attrac- 
tions which their ravines and waterfalls 
present. Mue Moimtahi, Liz's Peak, 
Nippletop, Cove Hill, Moor Mountain, 
White Face, and other grand peaks be- 
long to the neighboring range called the 
Keene Mountains. White Face is the 
most northern, and, except Mount Marcy, 
the loftiest of the wilderness crests. 

Ijake l^lesas asat. — To reach 
Lake Pleasant and the adjoining waters 
of Round, Piseco, and Louis Lake — a 
favorite and enchanting summer resort 
and sporting-ground — take the Central 
Railway from Albany, 33 miles to Am- 
sterdam, thence by stage or carriage to 
Holmes''s Hotel, on Lake Pleasant. The 
ride from Amsterdam is about 30 miles, 
The stage stops over night at a village, 
en roxcte. Mr. Holmes's house is an ex- 
•cellent place, with no absurd luxuries, but 
with every comfort for which the true 
sportsman can wish. It is a delightful 
summer home for the student, and may 
be visited very satisfiictorily by ladies. 
The wild lands and waters here are a part 
of the lake region of Northern New York, 
of which we have already seen something 
on the Saranacs, and among the Adiron- 
dacks. The Saranac region is connect- 
ed mth Lake Pleasant by intermediate 
waters and portages. The deer and other 
game are abundant here in the forests, and 
65 



KOUTES.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Routes. 



fine trout may be taken in all the brooks 
and lakes. Lake Pleasant and its pict- 
uresque surroundings lie in Hamilton 
County. 

The Northern Wilderness of New 
York is similar in its attractions to the 
wilderness in the upper part of the State 
of Maine. The following synopsis of 
routes to the different parts of the 
Wilderness, gleaned mainly from Alfred B. 
Street's excellent work, " Woods and 
Waters," will be found useful to the trav- 
eller in that region: 



Some of* tiae l*riMcipa,l 
ISoiites into tine I^ortlaei'm 
"lYildleriaess froBn Esistei'ii, 
Soiatlieria, and. Western 
Ne^v "SToi-lf. 

I.— INTO THE CHATEAUGAT W00D3. 

1st. From Plattsburg to Dannemora 
State Prison, and Chazy Lake, 25 or 30 
miles. 

2d. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay 
Four Corners and Chateaugay Lakes. 

II.— INTO THE SAEANAC REGION. 

3d. By steamboat to Port Kent (or 
steamboat or railroad to Burlington, op- 
posite), on Lake Champlain. Thence by 
post-coach to Keeseville (Essex County), 
four miles. From Keeseville, 16 miles, 
to £aker^s Saranac Lake House, two 
miles short of the Lower Saranac Lake ; 
3r to Martin''s, on the banks of the Lower 
Saranac ; or to BartleWs, between Round 
Lake and Upper Saranac Lake, 13 miles 
Prom Martin's. The Keeseville road is a 
50od travelling road, planked from Keese- 
i'ille to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from 
Keeseville. 

At the village of Au Sable Forks, 12 
niles from Keeseville, the visitor can 
;urn off into a road through the village 
)f Jay, intersecting the Elizabethtown 
'oad, about 12 miles from Baker's. This 
•oad leads through the famous White 
Face or Wilmington notch. 

4th. By steamboat to Westport, on 

Lake Champlain. Thence to EUzabeth- 

;own, and thence to Baker's or Bartlett's, 

)r to Martin's. This route is about the 

66 



same distance as the Keeseville route, 
but the road is by no means so good. 

III.— INTO THE ADIRONDACK, RACKET 
AND HUDSON RIVER REGIONS. 

5th. From Crown Point, on Lake 
Champlain, to RooVs, about 20 miles. 
From Root's to the Adirondack Lower 
Works, 20 miles ; thence to Long Lake, 
20 miles. A stage runs from Root's to 
Long Lake usually once a week during 
the summer. From the Lower Works to 
Adirondack village or Upper Works, by 
water (through Lake Sandford), 10 or 12 
miles ; by road, same. From the Upper 
Works to Mount Tahawus (Mount Marcy), 
four miles, and three miles to top. From 
the Upper Works to the famous Indian 
Pass (the most majestic natural wonder, 
next to Niagara, in the State), four miles. 
From the Indian Pass to Scoffs, on the 
Elizabethtown road (through the woods, 
with scarcely a path), seven miles ; thence 
to Baker's (over a road), 14 miles. 

6th. From Glenn's Falls to Roofs, over 
a good road, SO miles, viz. : From Glenn's 
Falls to Lake George, nine miles ; thence 
to Warreusburg, six miles ; thence to 
Chester, eight or ten miles ; thence to 
Pottersville, six or eight miles ; thence to 
Root's, and thence to Long Lake, or the 
Lower or the Upper Works ; or from 
Pottersville to the Boras River, 15 miles. 

Vth. From Carthage, in Jefferson 
County (by way of the Beach Road), to 
Long Lake, 40 or 50 miles ; thence to 
Pendleton, 10 miles ; thence to Hudson 
River Bridge, about fiye miles; thence to 
the Lower Works, about five miles. Can 
drive the whole distance from Carthage 
to the Lower Works. 

8th. From Fort Edward to Glenn's 
Falls and Lake George ; thence to Johns- 
burg ; thence to North Creek ; thence 
to Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake (the mid- 
dle of the three Blue Mountain Lakes). 
From North Creek to Eagle Lake, 20 
miles. 

9th. By road from Saratoga Springs to 
Lakes Pleasant and Pisco. 

IV.— INTO THE JOHN BROWN TRACT 
REGION. 

_ 10th. From Uticaby railroad to Boone- 
ville ; thence to Lyonsdale and Port Ley- 



I 



Trenton Falls.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Teenton Falls, 



deu, seven miles by stage-road ; thence to 
Deacon Abby's Place, 6^ miles, over a 
good road ; thence to Arnold's (over rather 
a poor road, although passable by wagon), 
14 miles. 

11th. From Utica by railroad to Boone- 
ville ; thence to Booth's mills, 1 1 miles, 
over a good wagon-road ; thence to Ar- 
nold's by pack-horses (sent by Arnold to 
Booth's mills), 14|- miles, over a rather 
rough road. 

12th. From Utica by railroad to Alder 
Creek ; thence by road to the Reservoir 
Lakes. 

13th. From the village of Prospect 
(Oneida County, reached by railroad), 
through Herkimer County, to Morehouse, 
in Hamilton County. 

14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, 
on the Racket River, by Ogdenshurg and 
Lake Chanvplain Railroad; thence to 
Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence to the 
foot of the Little Bog at McEwen's, on 
the Racket River, 12 miles, by private 
conveyance, over a good road ; thence by 
boat 1^ miles, to Bog Falls ; thence a 
short portage on east side of river ; thence 
to Harris's place, 4^ miles, opposite the 
mouth of the Jordan River; thence 3|^ 
miles by wagon-road to John Ferry's; 
thence three miles farther on, same road, 
to foot of Moose-Head Still Water; 
thence through the latter, six miles ; 
thence nine miles to Racket Pond ; and 
thence five miles to Big Tapper's Lake. 



BOUTE nil. 

NEW yobs: to TBENTON falls, via 
UTICA, ETC. 

"Trentoia ff'alls is the place, above 
all others, where it is a luxury to stay — 
which one oftenest revisits, which one 
most commends to strangers to be sure 
to see. " In the long corridor of travel 
between New York and Niagara, Tren- 
ton," says Mr. Willis, " is a sort of alcove 
aside — a side-scene out of earshot of the 
crowd — a recess in a window, whither 
you draw a friend by the button for the 
sake of chit-chat at ease," Trenton Falls 
is rather a misnomer, for the wonder of 
nature which bears the name is a tre- 
mendous torrent, whose bed, for several 
miles, is sunk fathoms deep into the earth 



— a roaring and dashing stream, so far 
below the surface of the forest, in which 
it is lost, that you would think, as you 
come suddenly upon the edge of this long 
precipice, that it was a river in some in- 
ner world (coiled within ours, as we in 
the outer circle of the firmament), and 
laid open by some Titanic throe that had 
cracked clear asunder the crust of this 
" shallow earth." The idea is rather as- 
sisted if you happen to see below you, on 
its abysmal shore, a party of adventurous 
travellers ; for at that vast depth, and in 
contrast with the gigantic trees and rocks, 
the same number of well-shaped pismires, 
dressed in the last fashion, and philander- 
ing upon your parlor floor, would be about 
of their apparent size and distinctness. 

Trenton Falls are upon the West 
Canada Creek, a branch of the Mohawk, 
17 miles from Utica (see Utica). The 
descent of the stream, 812 feet in a 
distance of two miles, is by a series of 
half a dozen cataracts, of wonderful va- 
riety and beauty. Every facility of path 
and stairway and guide, for the tour of 
the Trenton ravine, has been provided by 
Mr. Moore, who has for many years re- 
sided on the spot, and has been always 
its Prospero, and its favorite host. A 
walk of a few rods through the woods 
brings the visitor to the brink of the pre- 
cipice, descended by secure stairways for 
some hundred feet. The landing is a 
broad pavement, level with the water's 
edge, often, in times of freshet, the bed of 
foaming floods. Here is commanded a 
fine view of the outlet of the chasm, 45 
rods below, and also of the first cascade, 
37 rods up the stream. The parapet of , 
the First Fall, visible from the foot of the 
stairs, is, in dry times, a naked perpen- 
dicular rock, 33 feet high, apparently ex- 
tending quite across the chasm, the water 
retiring to the left, and being hid from the 
eye by intervening prominences. But in 
freshets, or after rain, it foams over, from 
one side of the gorge to the other, in 
a broad amber sheet. A pathway to this 
fall has been blasted at a considerable 
cost, under an overhanging rock and 
around an extensive projection, directly 
beneath which rages and roars a most 
violent rapid. The passage, though at 
first of dangerous aspect, is made secure 
by chains well riveted to the rock wall. 
67 



ENTON Falls.] 



NEW YORK. 



[Lkbanon Springs. 



Passing to the left, yet a few rods 
3ve, we come to She7-man''s Fall, 

feet high, so named in memory of 
J Rev. Mr. Sherman, whose account of 
! spot we arc now closely following. 

was one of the earliest pioneers of the 
jnton beauties, and it was by him that 
' first house, called the " Rural Resort," 
' the accommodation of visitors, was 
ilt. The fall has formed an immense 
javation, having thrown out thousands 
tons from the parapet rock, visible at 
; stairs, and is annually forcing oft' slabs 
the west corner, against which it inces- 
itly forces a section of its powerful 
jet. A nated mass of rock, extending 

160 feet, juts frowningly forward, 
ich is ascended by natural steps to a 
int from which the visitor looks secure- 
down upon the rushing watei'S. 
Leaving this rocky shelf, and passing 
vild rapid, we come suddenly in sight 
the High Falls, 40 rods beyond. Tliis 
!cade has a perpendicular descent of 
9 feet, while the cliffs on either side rise 
ae SO feet yet higher. The whole body 

water makes its way at this point — 
dded by intervening ledges into sepa- 
;e cataracts, which fall first about 40 
!t, then reuniting on a flat below, and 
Bring suddenly around an inchnation of 
:?ky steps, they plunge into the dark 
Idron beneath. The Rural Retreat, 20 
;t above the summit of the High Falls, 
readily reached by a flight of stairs. 
The opening of the chasm now he- 
mes considerably enlarged, and a new 
riety of scene occurs. Mill-i)am Fall, 14 
it high, lies some distance beyond, 
iching across the whole breadth of the 
asm. 
Ascending this fall, the visitor comes 

a still larger platform level rock, 15 
:1s wide at low water, and 90 in length, 
ed on each side by cedars. At the ex- 
!mity of this locality, which is known 

the Alliambra, a bare rock 50 feet in 
ight reaches gradually forward from the 
d-distance ; and, from its shelving top, 
3re descends a perpetual rill, which 
-ms a natural shower-bath. A. wild 
taract fills the picture on the left. Here 
3 wide opening suddenly contracts, and 
larrow aperture only remains, with vis- 
5 of winding mountain, cliff, and crag. 
!ar by is a dark basin, where the waters 
68 



rest from the turmoil of the wild cascade 
above. In this vicinage is an amphi- 
theatre of seemingly impossible access, 
replete with ever-new surprises and de- 
lights. Yet beyond is the Moelnj Hear!, 
the jioiut at which the traverse of the 
ravine usually ends, though despite tlic 
difficulties and dangers of the way, even 
ladies frequently penetrate beyond as far 
as the faUs at Boon's Bridge, the terminus 
of the gorge. 

The scene at Trenton varies much, ac- 
cording as drought or freshet dries or fills 
the stream, and passages are easy enough 
at one time, which are uttei'ly impracti- 
cable at others. It is difficult to say when 
the glen is the most beautiful, whether 
with much or with little water. 

IjeljaBioia Sprim g-s and 
Slssilcei- "f^Olag'e. — Hotels, Co- 
lumbia Hall. 

Route. — Same as Route I. (See Hud- 
son.) 

There are ample accommodations for 
the traveller at this favorite watering- 
place, in a well-appointed hotel, a water- 
cure establishment, etc., pleasantly 
perched on a hill-slope, ovcrlookng a 
beautiful valley. There are pleasant 
drives all around, over good roads, to 
happy villages, smiling lakelets, and in- 
viting spots of many characters. Trout, 
too, may be taken in the neighbor- 
hood. The waters of the Spring flow 
from a cavity 10 feet in diameter, and 
in sufficient volume to work a mill. Its 
temperature is '72 ". It is soft, and pleas- 
antly suited for bathing uses, is quite 
tasteless and inodorous. For cutaneous 
affections, rheumatism, nervous debility, 
liver complaint, etc., it is an admirable 
remedial agent. 

The village- of N"ew Lebanon, or the 
celebrated Shaker settlement, is two 
miles from the Springs, and is a point of 
great interest to the visitors there, espe- 
cially on Sunday, when their singular 
forms of worship may be witnessed. (See 
Hudson.) 

SIisBrom Spi'iBBg's. — Hotels. — 
The Pavilioit is a large and well-ap- 
pointed establishment. The Eldridge is 
also a good house. 

Route. — From Albany, by the Central 
Railroad, as far as Palatine Bridge, 55 
miles ; thence by stage, 10 miles, over a 



Colombia Springs.] 



NEW YOEK. 



[Avon Springs. 



plank road. The waters are pure and clear, 
and although they flow for one-fourth of 
a mile from their source with other cur- 
rents, they yet preserve their own dis- 
tinct character. The fall here is of suffi- 
cient force and volume to turn a mill. It 
tumbles over a ledge of perpendicular 
rocks, with a descent of some 65 feet. 
The magnesia and the sulphur springs 
much resemble the White Sulphur of 
Yirginia. 

Che)-r'j Valley is in the vicinity of 
Sharon Springs, accessible also from Pala- . 
tine Bridge, and from Canajoharie, on the 
Erie Canal, from which it lies about 26 
miles in a southwest direction. 

Otsego Lake and Oooperstown^ famous 
as the home of the lateFeuimore Cooper, 
the novelist, are near by. 

Coluiultia. Springs. — (For 
route, see Hudson.) 

The Columbia Springs have of late 
years grown into popular favor. They 
are easily accessible, lying- only five 
miles from the City of Hudson. They are 
within the town of Stockport, Columbia 
County, New York. The site and grounds 
are highly varied and picturesque, jump- 



ing delightfully from hill to dale, from 
forest glen to grassy lawn. In the imme- 
diate neighborhood, moreover, there flows 
a pleasant lake, offering all the country 
charms of boating and flshing. . The hotel 
here, under the management of Mr. C. B. 
Nash, is large and well appointed. 

Avon Spa-img's. — The village of 
Avon is 20 miles distant from Rochester, 
on the Genesee River. A railway con- 
nects it with Geneseo, Cuylerville, and 
Mount Morris. The springs contain sul- 
phur and salt, and are efficacious in cases 
of rheumatism and indigestion. Good 
hotel accommodation. 

Miclifield Spring's. : — Hotel, 
Spring House. 

Richfleld Springs are in the town of 
Richfield, Otsego County, southeast of 
Utica, near the head of Canaderaga, one of 
the numerous lakes of this part of New 
York. Otsego Lake is six miles distant ; 
and another six miles will take the trav- 
eller to Cooperstown. Cherry Valley, 
Springjield, and other villages are near by. 

Route from New York and Albany, via 
Central Railway to Herkimer, 81 miles, 
and thence by stage. 

69 



ONNECXICUT.l 



CONNECTICUT. 



[Route I 



CONInTECTICUT. 



The scenery of Connecticut is delight- 
ully varied by the passage of the Con- 
lecticut, the Housatonic, and other pict- 
iresque rivers ; and of several low hill 
anges. Spurs of the Green Mountains 
ise here and there, in isolated groups or 
loints through the western portions of 
he State. The Talcot, or Greenwood's, 
lange extends from the northern boun- 
lary almost to New Haven. Between 
his chain and that in the extreme west, 
ies another ridge, with yet two others on 
he eastward — the Middletown Moun- 
ains, and the line across the Connec- 
icut, which is a continuation, most prob- 
ibly, of the White Hills of New Hamp- 
ihire. Lying between these mountain 
anges are valleys of great luxuriance and 
)eauty. The valley of the Connecticut, 
low traversed by rail through a greater 
)art of its length, affords some of the most 
)icturesque scenery in New England. 
Phe lakes . among the mountains of the 
lorthwestern corner of the State are ex- 
remely attractive. The Long Island 
sound, which waters the entire coast of 
Connecticut, is 140 miles long and 24 
vide, and affords some fine scenery. (See 
jOng Island.) If we except a small 
rading-house built by the Dutch at Hart- 
brd, in 1631, the first colony planted in 
[Connecticut was the settlement of some 
)f the Massachusetts emigrants at Wind- 
sor. Soon afterward Hartford fell into 
;he possession of the English colonists. 
iVeiliersfield was next occupied, in 1636, 
md New Haven in 1638. The State had 
ts share of Indian troubles in its earlier 
listory, and of endurance, later, in the 
lays of the Revolution. Hartford and 
^ew Haven are the capitals, and chief 
;ities of the State. Norwalk, Bridgeport, 
md New London have each a popula- 
70 



tion of about 12,000. The population of. 
the State (1860) was 460,146. 

Routes. — There are five routes by 
steamboat and railway from New York 
through portions of Connecticut to Boston, 
affording daily communication throughout 
the year. (See Boston and New York.) 



MOUTE I, 

NEW YORK TO NEW HA YEN, HABT- 
FORD, SPRINGFIELD, ETC. 

{Via New York and New Haven, and New 
Haven, Hartford, and Springfield Bail- 
ways.) 

Stations. — Twenty-seventh Street and 
Fourth Avenue ; Forty-second Street 
Hai-lem, 6 miles ; Williams Bridge, 12 
Mount Vernon, 1^ ; New Rochelle, 18 
Maraaroneck, 22 ; Rye, 25 ; Port Chester, 
27 ; Greenwich, 31 ; Stamford, 37 ; Nor- 
walk, 45 ; W^estport, Southport, 52 ; Fair- 
field, Bridgeport, 59 ; Stratford, 62 ; Nau- 
gatuck Railroad Junction, Milford, West 
Haven, New Haven, 76; Meriden, 94; 
Hartford, 112; Springfield, 138. 

Over this fine road from New York 
to Springfield there is laid a double 
track, and express trains stop only at 
the principal stations, running through 
to Springfield, without change, in five 
hours. (For description of points on this 
line between New York and Williams 
Bridge, see New York and Vicinity, 
and New York and Harlem Railway.) 

Nc^v Moclaelie, in Westchester 
County, N. Y.. is pleasantly situated on 
the Long Island Sound. It was settled 
by Huguenots from Rochelle, in France. 
It was the residence of Thomas Paine, 
who died here, June 8, 1809. A menu- 



Bkidgeport.] 



CONNECTICUT. 



[New Haven. 



ment to his memory still stands near 
where he was first buried. 

Port Cliestex', situated on By- 
ram River, in the township of Kye, West- 
chester County, is the last j)oint passed 
on this line before entering Connecticut. 

©i'eeii"svicSa, three miles beyond 
Port Chestei', commands a fine view of 
the Sound and Long Island. It has two 
large churches, and several handsome resi- 
dences. Greenwich is famous as the 
scene of "Putnam's breakneck ride" 
down the rocks. The spot known as 
" Put's Hill " can be seen from the train 
to the east of the depot. 

@t£&n(i.£<>a-4i (3*7 miles), in Fairfield 
County, at the mouth of Mill River, 
has of late years been much resorted to 
by visitors during the summer months. 
It has four pleasant parks and numerous 
drives, eight church edifices, and a popu- 
lation of 4,000. 

J^or'wallc. — Hotel, AUiss House. 

Norwalk (45 miles) is a pleasant vil- 
lage, upon Norwalk River. It was burnt 
by the British, July 11, 17'79. The JVor- 
walk and Danhury Railroad, 24 miles, 
comes in at this point. The quiet rural 
beauties of Norwalk, and its proximity 
to New York, make it one of the most 
desirable as well as available summer re- 
sorts of Connecticut. The oyster business 
is extensively carried on here, as is also 
the manufacture of hats. North of the 
South-port Station, is the Pequot Swamp, 
where that once powerful tribe of Indians 
made their last stand (163*7) against Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts troops. Fair- 
field, farther on our journey, was burnt 
(July 7, 17Y9) by Governor Tryon, who 
sailed the previous day from New Haven. 

ISritlg-eport. — Hotel, the Stanley 
House. 

Bridgeport, 59 miles from New York, 
is the southern terminus of the Housatonic 
Railway. This route lies through the 
most picturesque portions of Connecticut 
and Massachusetts — the western or moun- 
tain regions. (See Housatonic Valley.) 
The Naugatuck Railway extends hence, 
via Waterbury (62 miles), to Winsted. 
Steamers ply between New York and 
Bridgeport. The town is upon an arm 
of the Long Island Sound, at the mouth 
of the Peqnannock River. A terrace 
height of 50 feet, occupied by beau- 



tiful private mansions and cottages, com- 
mands a charming view of the town and 
the Sound. Washington and Seaside Parks 
are fine public grounds. The town is 
celebrated for its manufactures of sewing- 
machines and fire-arms. Among the most 
extensive establishments are those of the 
Wheeler & Wilson and Howe Sewing- 
Machine Companies, and the New Haven 
Arms Company. In Bridgeport was born 
the famous dwarf, Charles S. Stratton, 
alias " Tom Thumb." lAndencroft, the 
homestead of P. T. Barnum, the famous 
showman, is a short distance west of the 
town. Population, 18,000. 

Milford, eight miles north of Bridge- 
port, presents a picturesque appearance. 
The streets are lined with stately elms. 
In the cemetery near the railway east of 
the depot is a monument 30 feet high, 
erected over the remains of the American 
soldiers brought here from New York, 
January, IVZV. 

West and East JRocks are seen on ap- 
proaching New Haven from Bridgeport. 
On the summit of West Rock is the 
Judges' Cave, where Goffe and Whalley, 
two of the judges who condemned King 
Charles I., concealed themselves. From 
the summit of EastRoch, 400 feet high, a 
wide view of New Haven and the neigh- 
boring Sound is had. 

Ne^v MavcM. — Hotels : the New 
Haven, on Chapel Street, overlooking the 
Park, and the Tontine, corner of Church 
and Court Streets, are both good houses. 

New Haven, '76 miles from New York, 
is one of the most beautiful and interest- 
ing places in New England. It is known 
as the " Elm City," from the extraordinary 
number of beautiful trees of this species 
by which the streets are so gratefully 
shaded and so charmingly embellished. 
It is beautifully situated on an extensive 
plain at the head of the bay or harbor, 
which extends from the Sound a distance 
of four miles. North of the city are 
highlands overlooking it and the Sound, 
prominent among which are East and 
West Rocks. It was settled (1638) by 
an English Company from London, and 
was originally laid out in a plot half a 
mile square. There are upward of 30 
church edifices in the city, and the popu- 
lation exceeds 40,000, and is rapidly in- 
creasing. The chief objects of interest — 
71 



'Jew Haten.] 



CONNECTICUT. 



[Hartford. 



md these no visitor should fail to see — 
ire Yale College hmldhigs. and the Pub- 
ic Square, or " Green," as it is familiarly 
called. The square is easily reached by 
Jhapel Street, one of the main thorough- 
ares of the city. It contains 16 acres, and 
s a most attractive spot. The view in 
Temple Street, which extends across the 
iquare north and south, is especially stri- 
dng. West of Temple Street are Trinity, 
Voj-ih, and Centre Churches, and still 
arther west, the Stcde House. The base- 
nent of the latter building is of marble 
rom the Sing Sing quarries. New York, 
^ew Haven divides the honors of the 
japital with Hartford, the sessions of the 
?tate Legislature being held alternately 
it either place. The College buildings, 
burteen in number, fronting the square 
)n the west, will next attract attention. 
Dhis famous college, founded in lYOO, 
md removed to New Hav«n in 1716, is 
lamed after citizen Slibu Yale, afterward 
governor of Fort George, in the East In- 
lies. The Fine-Art Building, recently 
constructed by Augustus R. Street, and 
)y him presented to the city, should be 
asited. It is built of brown stone, and 
!Ost §180,000. The Trunibidl Gallery 
contains the original pictures by Colonel 
lohn Trumbull, of which copies are in 
,he rotunda of the Capitol at Washing- 
,on. Alumni Hedl, built of Portland 
reestone, is also a fine edifice. 

The City Hall, fronting the east side 
)f the square on Church Street, is an im- 
posing Gothic edifice, of Portland and 
S^ova Scotia stone. It was completed in 
[862, from designs by Austin, at a cost 
)f .§100,000. The tower, 84 feet high, 
s surmounted by a spire of 66 feet, in 
vhich is an alarm-bell and an obser- 
vatory. In the Grove Street Cemetery are 
lie graves of Roger Sherman, Noah 
tVebster, Pierrepont Edwards, James Hill- 
louse, Timothy Pitkin, and Eli V/hitney. 
Long Wharf, which extends into the har- 
30r nearly 4,000 feet, is said to be the 
ongcst wharf in the coimtry. 

The vicinity of New Haven abounds in 
ittractive diives and rides. Savin Roclc, 
bur miles southwest, is reached by rail 
;o West Haven depot, and thence by 
itage, or by stage direct from New Haven. 
rhe beach aflbrds good bathing. The 
Rock House has ample accommodation for 
12 



visitors. The Bradford Point House, 
seven miles east of the city, is also a 
pleasant resort. Steamboats daily be- 
tween New Haveji and New York. 

Wallingford, 12 miles north of New 
Haven, is a place of extensive manu- 
factures. A short distance beyond this 
station is " Mount Tom," upon the slope 
of which is seen the establishment of the 
Wallingford Society. The domain cm- 
braces 230 acres, of which 30 are laid out 
in orchards and vineyards. The Hanging 
Hills, said to be the most elevated points 
in the State, will attract the tourist's no- 
tice as he nears Meriden, 

McritleM, 18 miles from New Haven, 
is an important manufacturing place, with 
a population of 10,000. It is divided 
into Meriden and West Meriden. The 
works of the Meriden Britannia Manufac- 
turing Company, near the railway station, 
are 466 feet in length and three stories 
high, and give employment to 400 opera- 
tives. The Town Hall and State Reform 
School are among the most prominent 
buildings. Mount Lamentation is seen to 
the eastward, on leaving the station. 

New Britain is reached by a branch 
road 2^ miles northwest from Berlin 
Junction. It is widely known for its 
manufactures of locks, etc. It has one 
of the largest fountains in the United 
States. 

Middletown, a summer resort on the 
Connecticut River, is famous for its 
qnarries. It is 1 miles southeast by rail 
from Berlin, and 15 miles from Hartford. 
The McDonongh is the leading hotel. 

Msfirtroitvjl. — Hotels, the AUyn 
House and United Sicdes. 

Hartford, a semi-capital of Connecticut, 
is 36 miles from New Haven, 112 
from New York, and 124 from Boston. 
It is upon the right bank of the Connec- 
ticut River, navigable to this point by 
sloops and small steamboats, 50 miles up 
from Long Island Sound. The first setr 
tlement here was made by the Dutch 
(16.S3), at the junction of Park River with 
the Connecticut. The place still goes by 
the name of "Dutch Point." The first 
English settlement was made in 16S5. 
Alain Street, two miles long, is a hand- 
some promenade. Among the prominent 
literary and educational institutions of 
Hartford arc Trinity College, the Wads- 



Haetfokd.] 



CONNECTICUT. 



[Route II. 



worth Ailienafum, erected by private sub- 
scription at a cost of $52,000, and the 
Connecticut Historical Society. Tlie Wat- 
kinson Lihrary^ in the Athenjeum Build- 
ing, contains some rare books. The 
statuary romn and picture ffallery in this 
building are worth visiting (fee). The 
historical rooms are open daily (free). 
Among its chief benevolent establish- 
ments, for which Hartford is alike con- 
spicuous, are the American Asylum fcr 
the Deaf and Dumb, incorporated 1816, 
and the Retreat for the Insane, opened 
in 1824. The Hartford Hospital, dedi- 
cated in 1859, is a handsome build- 
;iag of Portland stone, and cost $48,000. 
That old historic relic, the Charter 
Oak, held in so much reverence, stood 
in Hartford until 1856, when it was 
prostrated by a violent storm. A marble 
slab in Charter Oak Place marks the 
spot where it stood. CoWs Fire-Arms 
Manufactory is worthy a visit. It is in 
the southeast quarter of the city. It 
encloses 23 acres of land, and gives em- 
ployment to 800 hands. The residence 
of the late Mrs. L. H. Sigourney, the 
poetess, stands on Asylum Street, near 
the railway depot. Mrs. Stowe is also 
X resident of Hartford, Population, 
35,000. 

The vicinity of Hartford, like that of 
ts sister city, New Haven, abounds 
n picturesque drives and walks. Tum- 
'de-Down Brook, eight miles west, on the 
ilbany road, Talcott Mountain, Weihers- 
\field, and Frospect Hill are among the 
most frequented! 

Leaving Hartford and passing Windsor 
^nd Windsor Locks, 12 miles beyond the 
arst-named city, we shortly reach the great 
Ton truss bridge over the Connecticut 
Siver at Warehouse Point. It is 1,525 
eet long and cost |265,000, The iron 
jras supplied, and the frame of the bridge 
jiut together in England. Its erection 
ras commenced June, 1865, and com- 
)leted February, 1866. It has 1*7 spans, 
pe largest of which is I'ZVi feet. The 
aanufacturing towns of Enfield and 
fhompsonville, the former famous for its 
jowder, the latter for its carpets, are 
loon reached, and then Longmeadow. 
^or continuation of the route northward, 
^ee Boston and Worcester Route feou 

OSTON.) 

4 



ROUTE II. 

BBIDOEPORT TO PITTSFIELD. 
( Via Housatonic Railway.') 

The valley of the Housatonic, traversed 
by the Housatonic River and Railroad, ex- 
tends for about 100 miles northward from 
Long Island Sound, through the extreme 
west of Connecticut and Massachusetts, 
including the famous county of Berkshire 
in the latter State. The whole region is 
replete with picturesque and social at- 
tractions, and has long been resorted to for 
summer travel and residence. It is a 
country of bold hills, pleasant valleys, and 
beautiful streams — more particularly that 
portion lying in Berkshire. Saddle Moun- 
tain, in the north part of this county, is 
the highest land in Massachusetts. The 
natural beauties of Monument Mountain, 
also in Berkshire, have been heightened 
by traditionary story, and by the verse of 
Bryant. Stockbridge and Great Barring- 
ton — very popular summer homes — are 
here. 

Stations. — Bridgeport ; Stepney, 10 
miles ; Botsford, 15 ; Newtown, 19 ; 
Hawleyville, 23 ; Brookfield, 29 ; New 
Milford, 35 ; Gaylordsville, 42 ; Kent, 48 ; 
Cornwall Bridge, 5*7 ; West Cornwall, 61 ; 
Palls Village, 6*7 ; Canaan, 73 ; Ashlev 
Palls, 75 ; ShefiSeld, 79 ; Barrington, 85^; 
Van Deusenville, 87 ; Housatonic, 89 ; 
Glendale, 92 ; Stockbridge, 93 ; South 
Lee, 95 ; Lee, 99 ; Lenox Purnace, 101 ; 
Lenox, 102 ; Dewey's, 106 ; Pittsfield, 1 10. 

Routes. — From New York, take the 
New Haven Railroad, 59 miles, to 
Bridgeport, on Long Island Sound, 
thence up the valley, on the Housa- 
tonic road ; or take the Hudson River, or 
the River Railroad route, 116 miles, to 
the city of Hudson, and thence by Hud- 
son and Boston Railroad, 34 miles, to 
West Stockbridge ; or the Harlem Rail- 
road, to'its intersection with the Hudson 
and Boston, at Chatham Four Corners. 
From Albany, by the Albany and Boston 
road, 38 miles, to State line (Housatonic 
road), or onward to Pittsfield. From Bos- 
ton by Western (Mass.) road, 151 miles, to 
Pittsfield. 

Falls Villas-e, 67 miles. The 
falls here which are the largest in Con- 
73 



PiTTSFIELD.] 



CONNECTICUT. 



[NoEwicn. 



nccticut, are very bold aiid picturesque. 
The waters traverse a ledge of limestone, 
and make a descent of 60 feet. 
Xlie Salisbury ILakes. — The 

country west of Canaan, as all this part of 
the State, is beautifully embellished with 
hill and lake scenery. The Twin Lakes, 
in Salisbury township, are very charming 
waters. Mo\int Riga is 1,000 feet high. 

SlaefSIel*! (79 miles) is a prosperous 
village, famous for its manufactures and 
for its varied scenic attractions. 

15 a, r r i 11 g- 1 © m. . — Hotel, the 
Berkshire House. Great Barrington, with 
excellent hotels for summer travel, is a 
place of favorite resort. Mount Peter, on 
the southern edge, overlooks the village 
pleasantly, and is most agreeably seen 
approaching on the river road from the 
north. 

Tlie Taugkemic Mountains, a range 
extending from the Green Hills of Ver- 
mont, lie between the Houcatonic valley 
and the Hudson Eiver. Mount Wash- 
ington, Mount Riga, and other peaks, 
are interesting places of pilgrimage and 
exploration. Following the Housatonic, 
and passing Monument Mountain, we 
reach Stockbridge. Old Stockbridge is 
one of the quietest and most winsome re- 
treats in the world, lying in the lap of a 
fertile, hill-sheltered valley. The houses, 
v/hich are all far apart, and buried in 
dense verdure, stand back in gardens, 
upon either side of a broad street or 
road, thickly lined with noble specimens 
of the ever-attractive New England elm. 
The Stockbridge House is well kept. 

Lebanon Springs (N. Y.), and the 
Shaker village, are hereabouts. (See New 
York.) 

I>itt§iael4l .—Hotel, Rerk- 
shire House. Pittsfield, Berkshire County, 
Mass., 110 miles from Bridgeport, is a 
large manufacturing and agricultural 
town, elevated 1,100 feet above the level 
of the sea. It is 151 miles west from 
Boston, and 49 east from Albany. The 
village is beautifully situated, and con- 
tains many elegant public edifices and 
private dwellings. In this village there 
is still standing one of the original forest 
trees — a large elm, 1 20 feet high, and 90 
feet to the lowest limb — an interesting 
relic of the primitive woods, and justly 
esteemed a curiosity by persons visiting 
74 



this place. The town received its pres- 
ent name in 1761, in honor of William 
Pitt (Earl of Chatham). Upon a fine 
spacious square in the heart of the town 
are the principal hotels, the Berkshire 
Medical School, a popular institution 
founded in 1823, and the First Congre- 
gational Church, a Gothic structure of 
stone, erected in 1853. The Young 
Ladies'' Lnstitute occupies several admi- 
rable buildings, surrounded by well-em- 
bellished grounds. Pittsfield is a large 
depot of manufactures, being extensively 
engaged in the production of cotton and 
woollen goods, machinery, fire-arms, and 
I'ailroad cars. The population of the 
township is nearly 9,000. The routes 
from Pittsfield are to Boston (151 miles), 
and Albany (49 miles), by the Western 
(Mass.) Eailway ; and to North Adams 
(20 miles), by Pittsfield and North Adams 
Eailway. The Pittsjield and North 
Adams Route. — Stations: Packard's, 
Berkshire, Cheshire, Cheshire Harbor, 
Maple Grove, and South Adams to North 
Adams. 

Adams. — The villages of North and 
South Adams are in the immediate neigh- 
borhood of Saddle Mountain. This noble 
peak has an elevation of 3,500 feet, and 
is the highest land in Massachusetts. 
There is a notable natural bridge upon 
Hudson's brook near North Adams. The 
Hoosac Tunnel is reached from here. 

"f%''illiajiisto>via, near North 
Adams, is the seat of Williams College, 
founded in 1793. This institution is 
well endowed, and holds high rank 
among the best educational establish- 
ments of the country. The village is in 
one of the most picturesc[ue portions of 
lovely Berkshire County. 

Noi'^^TicIi, one of the most beautiful 
towns in the State, is situated at the junc- 
tion of the Yantic and Shetucket Elvers, 
which here form the Thames, and at 
the head of navigation on that river. It 
is 13 miles north of New London, the 
terminus' of the steamboat route No. 4 
(see Boston), from New York, and of the 
JSforicich and Worcester Raihvay. It is 
noted for its manufactures and fine resi- 
dences. Eistance to Worcester, 73 miles ; 
to Boston, 117^ miles. 

Ne^sv Hiondon, on the Thames 
Eiver, three miles from the sea and 13 



Stonington.] 



CONNECTICUT. 



[WiNSTED. 



miles south of Norwich. (See Boston, 
Route IV.) The harbor, one of the best 
in the United States, is environed by 
hills and defended by Forts Trmnhull 
and Griswold. The town was first set- 
tled (1644) by John Winthrop. The 
Custom-House^ Court-House, the Female 
Academy, and High School, are prominent 
edifices. Railway communication with 
New Haven, Providence, and all the prin- 
cipal cities. 

Willimantic is pleasantly situated on 
the Willimantic River, 30 miles from 
New London by the Northern Railway, 
at the intersection of that line with the 
Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. jR. 

Stafibrd. Spring's, 20 miles be- 
yond Willimantic, are regarded as among 
the most valuable chalybeate waters in 
the country. Good hotel accommoda- 
tion. 

Stoning'ton^ on the Stonington 
and Providence Railway, 12 miles from 
New London, and 50 miles south of Provi- 
dence, is a place of some historical and 
commercial interest. It was settled in 



1649, and incorporated 1801. A suc- 
cessful resistance was here made against 
the attack of Sir Thomas Hardy in the 
War of 1812. The Stonmgton Railway, 
completed in 1835, was the first line 
built in Connecticut. Mystic, four miles 
from Stonington, is situated on both 
sides of the Mystic River, two miles from 
the sea. Ship and steamboat building is 
extensively carried on. 

Plainfield, in Windham County, 35 
miles from Providence, via Providence, 
Hartford, and Fishkill R. R., is a thriving 
manufacturing town. 

Waterljiiry^ the western termi- 
nus of the Providence line, is a thriving 
manufacturing place, occupying a beau- 
tiful slope on the Naugatuck River, mid- 
way between Bridgeport and Winsted. 
Trains daily, via the Naugatuck Railway, 

^%Wiiisted, the northern terminus 
of the Naugatuck Railway, is a thriving 
village in Litchfield County. Long Lake 
has its outlet at the west end of the vil- 
lage. Population, 4,000. (The Reardsley 
Hotel.) 

16 



Rhode Island.] 



RHODE ISLAND. 



rPfiOVIDENCE. 



EHODE ISLAITD. 



Rhode Island adjoins Connecticut on 
the east and Massachusetts on the south. 
It is entitled to distinction as the smallest 
State in the Union, its entire area not 
exceeding 1,159 square miles, with an ex- 
treme length and breadth respectively of 
47 and 37 miles. It is divided into five 
counties, and contained in 1860, 175,000 
inhabitants. Next to Providence, the 
largest towns are Smithfield, Newport, 
Warwick, Bristol, and Kingston. 

The country is most pleasantly varied 
with hill and dale, though there are no 
mountains of any great pretensions. 
Ample compensation for this lack in the 
natural scenery is made by the numerous 
small lakes which abound everywhere, 
and especially by the beautiful waters 
and islands and shores of the Narragan- 
set Bay, vrhich occupy a great portion 
of the area of the State. The Pawtucket, 
Pawtuxet, and Pawcatuck, are the most 
considerable streams. Its capitals. Prov- 
idence and Newport, are among the 
most ancient and most interesting places 
in the United States, and the latter has 
long been one of the most fashionable 
American watering-places. 

The State of Rhode Island was first 
settled at Providence, in 1636, by Roger 
Williams. To the enlightened and lib- 
ei-al mind of Williams in Rhode Island, 
and to the like true wisdom of Penn in 
Pennsylvania and of Lord Baltimore in 
Maryland, America owes its present hap- 
py condition of entire freedom of con- 
science, perfect religious toleration hav- 
ing been made a cardinal point in the 
policy of those colonies. Rhode Island 
proper was settled (1638) by Governor 
Coddington and others, at Pocasset (now 
Portsmouth). It was purchased of the 
Indians, by whom it was called Aquid- 
neck, "Isle of Peace." Subsequently it 
76 



was called " Isle of Rhodes " (whence 
Rhode Island), from the beautiful island 
of that name in the Mediterranean. The 
people of Rhode Island were early and 
active participants in the War of the 
Revolution, and many spots within her 
borders tell thrilling tales of the stirring 
incidents of those memorable days. 



PROVIDENCE AND VICINITY. 

Hotels. — The Aldricli House (new), 
near the railroad depot, and the City 
Hotel (old), near Broad Street, are the 
principal houses. Neither has more 
than moderate accommodations. A first- 
class hotel is among the most pressing 
wants of the city. 

Providence, one of the most beautiful 
cities in New England, and surpassed only 
by Boston in wealth and population, is the 
chief city of Rhode Island. It is pleas- 
antly situated on the northern arm of 
the Narraganset Bay, called Providence 
River. It is an ancient town, dating as 
far back as 1636 — when' its founder, 
Roger Williams, driven from the domain 
of Massachusetts, sought here that reli- 
gious liberty which was denied to him 
elsewhere. 

This city makes a charming picture 
seen from the approach by the beautiful 
waters of the Narraganset, which it en- 
circles on the north by its business quar- 
ter, rising beyond and rather abruptly 
to a lofty terrace, where the quiet and 
gratefully shaded streets are filled with 
dainty cottages and handsome mansions. 
Providence was once a very important 
commercial depot, its rich ships crossing 
all seas, and at the present day the city 
is equally distinguished for its manufac- 
turing and commercial enterprise. In 



Pkotidence.] 



RHODE ISLAND. 



[Rocky Point. 



the former department of human achieve- 
ment it early took the lead, which it 
still keeps, the first cotton-mill which was 
built in America being still in use, in 
its suburban village of Pawtucket, and 
some of the heaviest mills and printr 
works of the Union being now in opera- 
tion within its limits. It has also exten- 
sive manufactories of machinery and 
jewelry. The workshops of the Ameri- 
can Screw Company are the best appoint- 
ed of their kind in the country. The 
total capital invested here in manufac- 
tures is upward of $16,000,000. 

Providence is the seat of Brown Uni- 
vcr&iiy^ one of the best educational estab- 
lishments in America. It was founded in 
Warren, Rhode Island, in 1*764, and re- 
moved to Providence in 17*70. Its libra- 
ry is very large and valuable, and is 
remarkably rich in rare and costly works. 
R. A. Guild, librarian. 

Rhode Island Hospital, now progress- 
ing toward completion in the south- 
western suburb, will be one of the finest 
structures in the State. The entire cost, 
including grounds, will exceed a quarter 
million of dollars. 

27ie Aihenceum has a fine reading- 
room, and a collection of 29,000 books. 
T. D. Hedges, librarian. The Providence 
Historiccd Society, incorporated 1822, has 
a library of 4,000 volumes. The Butler 
Hospital for the Insane, upon the banks 
of Seekonk River, is an admirable in- 
stitution, occupying large and imposing 
edifices. In the same part of the city, 
and lying also upon the Seekonk River, 
is the Swan Point Cemetery, a spot of 
great rural beauty. There are upward of 
60 public schools in Providence, in which 
instruction is given to between eight and 
nine thousand pupils. The Dexter Asy- 
lum for the Poor stands upon an elevated 
range of land east of the river. In the 
same vicinage is the yearly meeting 
boarding-school, belonging to the Society 
:of Priends. The Reform School occupies 
the large mansion, in the southeast part 
lof the city, formerly known as the Tock- 
iwotton House. The Home for Aged 
i Women and the Ghildreyi's Pi'iend Society 
are worthy a visit. The Cvstom-House 
(Post-Office, and United States Courts) is 
a handsome granite structure, and one of 
the principal architectural ornaments of 



the city. The railroad depot, some of 
the banks, and many of the churches 
of Providence, are imposing structures. 
The railways diverging from Providence 
are the Providence and Worcester, 43 
miles, to Worcester, Mass. ; Hartford, 
Providence, and FishJcill, 123 miles, to 
Waterbury, Conn. ; Boston and Prov- 
idence, and Stoyiington and Providence, 62 
miles, to New London (see Routes from 
Boston), and the Providence, Warren, 
and Bristol. What Cheer Rock. — Upon 
the immediate edge of the city, on the shore 
of a charming bay in the Seekonk River, 
stands the famous What Cheer Rock, 
where the founder of the city, Roger 
WiUiams, landed from the Massachusetts 
side, to make the first settlement here. 

At HiinVs Mill, three or four miles 
distant, is a beautiful brook with a pict- 
uresque little cascade, a drive to which is 
among the morning or evening pleasures 
of the Providence people and their guests. 
Vue de VEau is the name of a picturesque 
and spacious summer hotel, perched 
upon a high terrace four miles below 
the city, overlooking the bay and its 
beauties for many miles around. 

Gaspee Point, below, upon the oppo- 
site shore of the Narraganset, was the 
scene of an exploit during the Revolu- 
tion. Some citizens of Providence, after 
adroitly beguiling an obnoxious British 
revenue craft upon the treacherous bar, 
stole down by boats in the night and set- 
tled her business by burning her to the 
water's edge. 

Il,©c3»:y S*oiB!Lt, equidistant be- 
tween Providence and Newport, is an 
attractive summer retreat, among shady 
groves and rocky glens, upon the west 
shore of the bay. In summer time boats 
ply twice a day on excursion trips from 
Providence to various rural points down 
the bay, charging 50 cents only for the 
round trip. Rocky Point is the most 
favored of all these rural recesses. Thou- 
sands visit it in the course of the sea- 
son, and feast upon delicious clams, just 
drawn from the water, and roasted on the 
shore in heated seaweed, upon true and 
orthodox "clam-bake" principles. Let 
no visitor to Providence fail to eat clams 
and chowder at Rocky Point, even if he 
should never eat again. Here is a good 
hotel with good bathing-houses attached, 
11 



JS^EWPORT.] 



RHODE ISLAND. 



[Newport. 



and a tower 170 feet high, from which is 
a charming view of the bay and land. 
Marked Rock is another famous excur- 
sion place, a few miles higher up the 
bay. It is reached in 40 minutes from 
Providence by boat. The towns of War- 
ren and Bristol, across the bay, are each 
worthy of a visit. They may both be 
reached several times a day from Provi- 
dence, via the Warren and Bristol Rail- 
road. Mount Hope, the famous home of the 
renowned King Philip, the last of theWam- 
panoags, is just below Bristol, upon Mount 
Hope Bay, an arm of the Niirraganset on 
the east. From the crown of this pictu- 
resque height is beheld a fine panorama 
of the beautiful Rhode Island waters. 
Upon the shore of Mount Hope Bay, op- 
posite, is the busy manufacturing town 
of Fall River (see Index). Off on our 
right, as we still descend toward the sea, 
is Greenwich, and near by it the birth- 
place and home of General Nathaniel 
Greene, the Revolutionary hero ; and just 
below is the township and (lying inland) 
the village of Kingston. In this neigh- 
borhood or.ce stood the old suufi-mill in 
which Gilbert Stuart, the famous Amer- 
ican painter, was born. 

Prescotfs Headquarters is a spot of 
Revolutionary interest on the western 
shore of the large island, filling the lower 
part of the bay," after which the State is 
named. 

The routes from Providence aud vicin- 
ity to New York and Boston are numer- 
ous. That to New York by the Hartford, 
Providence, and Fishkill, and Neiv York 
and New Haven Railways, 162 miles, is 
the most expeditious ; that by the boats 
of the Fall River line, via Newport, the 
most pleasant. To Boston (43 miles), by 
the Boston and Providence Railway. 

N c '^v p © r 1 . — HoTKLS, the Ocean 
House, Touro Street, the most fashion- 
able and most delightfully situated ; the 
Fillmore, i\\Q Aquidneck, and United States. 
One daily newspaper {JSfews), and the 
Mercury, the oldest weekly newspaper 
but one in the United States, are publish- 
ed in Newport. Excellent photographic 
views of the town and objects of interest 
may be had of Mr. J. Appleby Williams. 
His gallery is on Lower Touro Street, in 
the vicinity of the Ocean House. 

Route. — From New York (Pier No. 
78 



28, North River), at 5 p. m., daily, in the 
superb steamers of the Fall River line. 
From Boston, by the Old Colony and 
Newport Raibvay, via Taunton (07 
miles) ; or by rail to Providence, and 
thence by boat down Narraganset Bay. 

If Newport were not, as it is, the most 
elegant and fashionable of all American 
watering-places, its topographical beau- 
ties, its ancient commercial importance, 
and its many interesting historical asso- 
ciations, would yet claim for it distin- 
guished mention in these pages. The 
approach seaward is charming. Coming 
in from the sea round Point Judith, a 
few miles brings the traveller into the 
waters of the Narraganset Bay, where 
he passes between Fort Wolcott, on Goat 
Island, and the stronghold oi Fort Adams, 
upon Brenton Point on the right, and en- 
ters the harbor of the ancient town, once 
among the commercial capitals of the 
Union. As late as 1769 Newport ex- 
ceeded New York in the extent of her 
foreign aud domestic commerce. In the 
Revolution, the British long held posses- 
sion of the place, during which time, and 
at their departure (1779), it became al- 
most desolate. Before leaving, they de- 
stroyed 480 buildings, burned the light- 
house, cut down all the ornamental and 
fruit trees, broke up the wharfs, used the 
churches for riding-schools and the State 
House for a hospital, and carried off the 
church bells and the town records to New 
York ; disasters which reduced the popu- 
lation from 12,000 to 4,000. But the in- 
cidents of this period have left some 
pleasant memories for the present day, 
and remembrances of the fame of Com- 
modore Perry, the gallant commander on 
Lake Erie, who was born in Narragan- 
set, across the bay, and whose remains 
lie now in Newport ; of the residence of 
Rochambeau, and other brave officers of 
the French fleet, and of the visits of Gen- 
eral Washington, and the fetes given in 
his lionor ; the venerable buildings asso- 
ciated with all these incidents being still 
to be seen. Newport was settled ui 1637, 
and incorporated in 1700. Pocasset, or 
Portsmouth, at the northern extremity of 
the island, had been settled the year 
previous. The old town lies near the 
water ; but of late years, since the place 
has become popular as a summer resi- 



Newport.] 



RHODE ISLAND. 



[WOONSOCKET. 



dence, a new erty of charming villas and 
sumptuous mansions has sprung up, ex- 
tending far along upon the terraces 
which overlook the sea. Of the old build- 
ings, and of those which belong to New- 
port per se, instead of in its character of a 
watering-place, are the ancient State House 
(for Newport is a semi-capital of Rhode 
Island), the Redwood Library ^uAAthence- 
um, the Old Stone Mill, said to have been 
the property of Governor Benedict Ar- 
nold, built in 1'726 ; Tammany Hall In- 
stltitte, Trinity Church, the Vernon fam- 
ily mansion, the Perry monument. Com- 
modore Perry''s house, built in 1763, and 
long known as the " Granary ; " the forti- 
fications in the harbor, Fort Adams, Fort 
Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the Dump- 
lings. Fort Adams, on Brenton's Point, 
is one of the largest works in the United 
States. It mounts four hundred and sixty 
guns. The chief picturesque attractions 
of the town and its immediate vicinity 
are the fine ocean-shores, known as the 
First, the Second, and the Third Beach. 
It is the First, which is chiefly used 
as a bathing-ground by the Newport 
guests. It is half a mile from the Ocean 
and Fillmore Houses. Stages run during 
bathing hours. At the Second Beach are 
the famous rocks called Ptijyator?/, and the 
Hanging liochs, within whose shadow it 
is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his 
"Minute Philosopher." . The Glen and 
the Spouting Cave are charming places 
to ride to, when the weather invites. 
Lily Pond, the largest sheet of spring 
water on the island, is easily reached 
from Spouting Cave. 

"Briglit and queen-like the array 
Of lilies in their crystal bed ; 

Like chalices for Beauty's lip, 
Their snowy cones half open lie. 

The dew-drops of the morn to sip, 
But closed to day's obtrusive eye." 

The waters of this pond swarm with 
perch. 



Newport was the birthplace of the 
gifted miniature painter Malbone, and 
Gilbert Stuart's place of nativity may be 
seen in Narraganset, across the bay. 
Stuart made two copies of his great Wash- 
ington picture for Rhode Island, one of 
which may be seen in the State House 
at Newport, and the other in that at 
Providence. Among the interesting rel- 
ics to be found in the town are : Frank- 
lin's printing-press, imported by James 
Franldin in 1720. It is in the office of 
the Newport Mercury, established in 
1758. Upon this press the first news- 
paper issued (1732) was printed.- The 
Chair of State, in which Benedict Ar- 
nold sat at the reception of the char- 
ter in 1663 is in the possession of the 
Gould family. The First Baptist Church, 
founded in 1638, and claimed as the old- 
est church in Rhode Island, is worthy 
a visit. The bell in the tower weighs half 
a ton. The American Steamboat Com- 
pany's steamers, "Bay Queen," Captain 
Allen ; and " City of Newport," Captain 
Kelley, make excursions daily (Sundays 
excepted) between Providence, Rocky 
Point, and Newport. Fares, 50 cents and 
75 cents. 

Distances. — To Providence, 30 miles; 
to Fall River, 18 ; Point Judith. 15 ; 
Block Island, 30. 

Valley Falls, six miles north of Provi- 
dence, on the Worcester Railway, con- 
tains several large cotton-mills. 

''W o©iasoclis:et. 16 miles from 
Providence, is a flourishfeig manufactur- 
ing town (well worthy a visit from those 
interested in the manufacture of cotton 
goods), famous for its cotton manufac- 
tories, of which there are upward of 20. 
Woonsocket comprises the villages of 
Beron, Hamlet, Jencksville, Globe, and 
Union. Blackstone, two miles beyond 
Woonsocket, is an extensive manufactur- 
ing point. The Blackstone Manufactur- 
ing Company alone produce ten miUion 
yards of cotton cloth annually. 
- 79 



MASSACnOSETTS.1 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Massachusetts. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



Massachusetts, one of the original 
thirteen States, and the most populous 
and wealthy of the New England or East- 
ern States, is bounded on the north b.v 
New Hampshire and Vermont ; east by 
the Atlantic Oeea-n ; south by Connecticut 
and Ehode Island, and west by New 
York. Its greatest length, from east to 
west, is 145 miles, and its mean breadth 
70 miles. It embraces 4,992,000 acres, 
and is divided into 14 counties. 

The landscape here is of varied charac- 
ter, often strikingly beautiful, embracing 
not a few of the most famous scenes in 
the Union. In the southeastern part of 
the State the surface is fiat and sandy, 
though the sea-coast is, in many places, 
very bold, and charmingly varied with 
fine pictures of rocky bluff aud cliff. It 
abounds in admirable summer resorts, 
where the lovers of sea-breezes and bath- 
ing may find every means and appliance 
for comfort and' pleasure. In the eastern 
and central portions, the physical aspect 
of the country, though agreeably diversi- 
fied, is excelled in attraction by the taste 
and architectural beauty of its numerous 
cities, villages, and smiling homesteads, 
nowhere so abundant and so interesting 
as here. The Green Mountains traverse 
the western portion of Massachusetts in 
two ridges, lying some 25 miles apart, 
M'ith picturesque valley lands between. 
Here are the favorite summer resorts of 
Berkshire, and other parts of the Hou- 
satonic region. Saddle Mountain, 3,505 
feet high, is a spur of the most western of 
the two ridges we have mentioned, known 
as the Taconic or the Taugkannic hills. 
Mount Washington, another fine peak of 
this line, has an altitude of 2,624 feet. 
It rises in the exti-eme southern corner 
80 



of the State, while Saddle Mountain 
stands as an outpost in the northwest 
angle. The more eastern of the two liill- 
rauges here is called the Hoosic Eidge. 
Noble isolated mountain peaks overlook 
the winding waters and valleys of the 
Connecticut — some of them, though not 
of remarkable altitude, commanding 
scenes of wondrous interest, as Mount 
Holyoke and Mount Tom, near North- 
ampton. North of the middle of the 
State is the Wachusett Mountain, with 
an elevation of 2,018 feet. On Hudson's 
Brook, in Adams County, there is found 
a remarkable natural bridge, 50 feet 
high, spanning a limestone ravine 500 
feet in length. In New Marlborough, 
the tourist will see a singular rock poised 
with such marvellous art that a finger can 
move it ; and on Earmuigton Eiver, in 
Saudisfield, he will delight himself with 
the precipices, 300 feet high, known as 
the Hanging Mountain. Massachusetts 
has some valuable mineral springs, 
though none of them are places of gen- 
eral resort. In Hopkinton, mineral 
waters impregnated with carbonic acid, 
and carbonates of iron and lime; in 
Winchendon, a chalybeate spring, and 
one in Shutesbury, containing muriate of 
lime. But we need not make further 
mention of those points of interest here, 
as we shall have occasion to visit them 
all, under the head of one or other of the 
group of New England States, as we fol- 
low the network of routes by which they 
may be reached. Though small in area, 
compared with some other t-tates of the 
Union, Massachusetts is yc-t, in all the 
qualities which make national fame, one 
of the gi'catest of them all. Nowhere arc 
there records of historical incident of 



k 



Routes.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



greater interest ; nowhere a more advanced 
social position, or a greater intellect- 
ual attainment ; nowhere a nobler spirit 
of commercial enterprise ; nowhere a 
more inventive genius or a more indom- 
itable industry. 

The history of the State began with 
tlie landing of the Pilgrim Fathers from 
the May Flower at Plymouth, on the 
memorable 22d of December, 1620. 

The most memorable events of the 
Kei^olutionary struggle within the State 
were the battles of Lexington and Bun- 
ker Hill. 

During the late RebelHon (1861-'65), 
Massachusetts took a decided and pa- 
triotic stand, and furnished upward of 
50,000 men to the Union forces. Manu- 
factures rank all other productive inter- 
ests of the State in extent and value. 
The manufacturing companies, having 
agencies in Boston, number over 280. 
(See list in Boston City Directory, page 
52*7.) Boston is the capital and chief 
commercial city of the State. Population 
in 1860, 1,231,803. 



ROUTES TO BOSTON' FROM NEW TOUK 

Route 1. Railway — from Fourth Av- 
enue, corner of Twenty-seventh. Street, 
via New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, 
and Worcester, 236 miles, or by the 
Shore Line, via New Haven, New London, 
Stoniugton, and Providence, 231 miles, a 
pleasant and very speedy route to the 
latter city. Route 2. Slonington — by 
steamer, daily, from pier No. 18 North 
River (Cortland Street), to Stonington; 
thence by railway, via Providence, R. I. 
Route 3. Fall River — steamer, daily, at 
5 p. M., from pier No. 3 North River, via 
Newport, R. L ; thence by Old Colony 
and Neioport Railway. Route 4. Nor- 
ivleh Line — steamer, daily, from pier No. 
;>9 North River, to New London, Conn. ; 
thence by railway, via Norwich, Ct., and 
Worcester, Mass. The most expeditious 
routes between New York and Boston 
are those we have marked No. 1, Rail- 
way Route — geiierally known as the New 
York and New Haven line. Time be- 
tween eight and nine hours. All the 
other routes, by steamboat and railway, 
occupy the night, starting about 5 p. m.. 



and arriving by dawn next day. The New 
Haven route (No. 1), is upon tlie New York 
and New Haven road for "76 miles, to 
New Haven, along the south line of the 
State of Connecticut, near the shore of 
Long Island Sound. To Williams Bridge, 
13 miles from New York, the track is 
the same as that of the Harlem Railroad 
to Albany. At Fordham, 12 miles from 
the city, is located Jerome Park and the 
fine new Course of the American Jockey 
Club. Leaving Williams Bridge, we pass 
the pretty suburban villages of New 
Rochelle, Mamaroneck, Rye, and Port 
Chester, and reach Stamford, 3*7 miles from 
New York. The Shore Line leaves this 
route at New Haven, and extends through 
New London, Stonington, and Provi- 
dence. 



BOSTON AND VICINITY. 

Hotels. — The most fashionable and 
best-kept houses are the Revere, on Bow- 
doin Square, and the Tremont, on Tre- 
mont Street, both under the able man- 
agement of Messrs. Bingham, Wrisley & 
Co. ; the American House, in Hanover 
Street, is centrally located, and well con- 
ducted, and has upward of 300 rooms ; 
the United Slates Hotel, immediately op- 
l^osite the New York and New Haven 
depot, is a convenient and well-appoint- 
ed house, and Parker^s, in School Street, 
is conducted on the European plan. The 
restaurant attached to this house is one 
of the best in the country. The Cornhill 
Coffee House (Young's) in Waaliington 
Street, is also a well-appointed and much 
frequented establishment. The cliarges 
at the leading hotels are %i per day. 
There are also several clubs, admission 
to which is obtained by members' intro- 
duction. The Union is the largest and 
best. The Refectories and Cafes of 
Charles Copeland, Tremont Row, and 
of Southmayd, corner Bromfield Street, 
are among the best in the' city. 

Conveyances, etc. — The means of" get- 
ting about " in Boston are quite as plen- 
tiful, and generally better, as well as 
cheaper, than in most American cities. 
Scollay^s Building, corner Tremont and 
Court Streets, Bowdoin Square, Horticultu- 
ral Hall, on Tremont Street, near the Tre- 
81 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



mont Housf, and No. 1 2 Broad Street, are 
the principal starting-points for the city 
railway ears. We append a list of the 
main car-lines and the hack-fares. 

Tremont Street and Depots. — From 
Scollay's Building, through Court to 
jrreen, Leverett, and Causeway Streets, 
jy the Lowell, Eastern, and Eitchburg 
Hailroad Stations, and return by a differ- 
jnt route. 

East Boston and Camden Street. — 
From Scollay's Building to Hanover, 
Pleet, and Commercial Streets, across 
East Boston Ferry, through Meridian 
street to Chelsea ; return by a different 
"oute. 

Providence Dejjot and Chelsea Ferry. 
—From Pi'ovidence Dej^ot, Pleasant 
street, through Boylston, Tremont, Court, 
ilanover, Richmond, North, and Com- 
nercial Streets, to Chelsea Ferry ; return 
jy a different route. 

Boston and Roxhnry. — The Norfolk 
louse, Warren and Tremont Streets line 
)f cars leave station at Scollay's Build- 
ng, and reach Roxbury through Harrison 
ivenue and Washington Street or Tre- 
nont Street. 

The Mount Pleasant, Dorchester (via 
jlrove Hall), Brookline, Jamaica Plain, 
^'orest Hills, and Eggleston Square cars 
eave from corner of Tremont and Mont- 
gomery Place, and reach Roxbury 
lirough the same routes as above. 

The " Meeting-house Hill and Mount 
Bowdoin Branch " cars leave corner of 
J'edei'al and Summer Streets. 

The Dorchester and Milton and Quincy 
iars run from the corner of Broad and 
5tate Streets. 

South Boston and City Point Cars leave 
?collay's Building, passing the Worcester 
md Old Colony Railway Depots. 

Charlestown^ Somerville, and Medford 
;ars run from Scollay's Building, across 
]harlestown Bridge, and return via War- 
den Bridge. (Route to Bunker Hill.) 

Lynn and Chelsea {via Charlestown) 
!ars leave Scollay's Building and 71 
jornhill, running across Charlestown 
Bridge, and returning via Warren Bridge. 

Cambridge and Boston. — Harvard 
square, Prospect Street, Broadway, and 
'^orth Avenue cars leave Bowdoin Square, 
>pposite Revere House, running across 
Cambridge Bridge ; return the same way. 
82 



Mount Auhcrn, Brighton, Neioton Cor- 
ner,West Cambridge and Waierlown, same 
as above. Stages from Watertown for 
Waltham every alternate hour. 

East Cambridge and Boston. — Cam- 
bridge Street and East Cambridge cars 
leave Bowdoin Square, opposite Revere 
House, and pass over Craigie's Bridge to 
East Cambridge, and return. (See also 
Railway Stations.) , 

Fares. — Carriage and hack fares are 
regulated by law as follows : For one or 
more adult passengers within the city 
proper, or from one place to another 
within the limits of South Boston, or of 
East Boston, each 50 cents. 

Between the hours of 1 1 p. m. and 7 
A. M., the fare for one adult passenger $1. 

For two or more such passengers, each 
50 cents. 

For one adult passenger, from any 
part of the city proper, to either South 
Boston or East Boston, or from East Bos- 
ton or South Boston to the city proper, 
$1. 

For two or more such passengers be- 
tween said points, each 75 cents. 

For children between four and twelve 
years of age, when accompanied by an 
adult, one-half of the above sums ; and 
for children under four years of age, 
when -ftccompanied by an adult, no 
charge is made. 

Car fares are 6 cents within the city. 
Exchange (transfer) tickets 6 cents ad- 
ditional. 

Baggage. — One trunk, valise, box, 
bundle, carpet-bag, basket, or other ar- 
ticle used in travelling, shall be free of 
charge ; but for each additional trunk or 
other such articles 5 cents shall be paid. 

Complaints of overcharges should be 
made to R. C. Marsh, Superintendent of 
Hacks, City Hall. 

The Soldiers Messenger Corps, estali- 
lished in 1865, deliver small packages, 
letters, &c., promptly. The Messengers 
wear scarlet caps. They will generally 
be found round the principal hotels. 
Tariff of Charges, 15 to 20 cents in the 
city, 25 cents outside. 

Blostosa is one of the most interesting 
of the great American cities, not only on 
account of its thrilling traditionary and 
historical associations, dating from the 



^ 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



earliest days of the discovery and coloni- 
zation of the western continent, through 
all the trials and triumphs of the child- 
hood, youth, and manhood of the Repub- 
lic — but for its dauntless public enter- 
prise, and its high social culture ; for its 
great educational and literary facilities ; 
for its numerous and admirable benevo- 
lent establishments ; for its elegant public 
and private architecture, and for the sur- 
passing natural beauty of its suburban 
landscape. Boston is divided into three 
sections — Boston Proper, East and South 
Boston. The old city is built upon a 
peninsula of some '700 acres, very uneven 
in surface, and rising at three different 
points into an eminence, one of which is 
138 feet above the sea. The Indian name 
of this peninsula was Shawmut, meaning 
" Living Fountain." It was called by the 
earlier inhabitants Tremont or Trimount, 
its sobriquet at the present day. The 
name of Boston was bestowed on it in 
honor of the Rev. John Cotton, who came 
hither from Boston in England. The first 
white inhabitant of this peninsula, now 
covered by Boston proper, was the Rev. 
John Blackstone. Here he lived all alone 
until John Winthrop — afterward the first 
governor of Massachusetts— came across 
the river from Charlestown, where he had 
dwelt with some fellow-emigrants for a 
short time. About 1635, Mr. Blackstone 
sold his claim to the now populous penin- 
sula for £30, and removed to Rhode Island. 
The first church was built in 1632; the 
first wharf in 1673. Four years later a 
postmaster was appointed, and in 1*704 
(April 24), the first newspaper, called the 
Boston News-Letter^ was published. The 
city was incorporated February 23, 1822, 
with a population of 45,000. It is divided 
into 12 wards, and contains a population 
of 192,324. 

Boston Harbor is large, and contains 
numerous islands, some of which are well 
worth visiting. (See Fortifications.) 
A narrow isthmus, which is now called 
the " Neck," joins the peninsula of Old 
Boston to the main-land on the south, 
where is now the suburb of Roxbury. 
Boston has, indeed, been .appropriately 
called the "mountain city in the sea." 
(See Bridges, etc.) 

8outli Boston, formerly part of Dor- 
chester, extends some two miles along the 



south side of the harbor, from Old Bos- 
ton to Fort Inderpendeiice. Near the 
centre, and two miles from the State 
House, are Dorchester Heights, memora- 
ble as having been occupied and forti- 
fied by Washington in anticipation of an 
attack by the British, March 4, 1*776. 
A fine view of the city, of the vicinity, 
and the sea, may be obtained from these 
Heights. Here, too, on Telegraph Hill, is 
a large reservoir of the Boston water- 
works. The Ferhins' Bistitute (Blind 
Asylum) is worthy a visit. Admission on 
Saturday mornings. Permits granted at 
20 Bromfield Street. Independeiwe 

Square contains 6 1-4 acres. 

Fast Boston (the "Island Ward") is 
in the western part of Noddle's Island. 
It was the homestead of Samuel Mave- 
rick, while John Blackstone was sole 
monarch of the peninsula, 1630. Here 
is the wharf of the Cunard steamers, 
1,000 feet long. East Boston is con- 
nected by two ferries with the city proper. 
It is the terminus of the Grand Junction 
Railroad. Chelsea is near by. 

The principal sights in and round 
Boston are Bunker Hill Monument, 
Faneuil Hall, Boston Common, the Public 
Garden, State the House, Mount Auburn, 
and Harvard University Buildings. The 
Great Organ, the City Hospital, the City 
Hall, and one or two other public build- 
ings, are worth visiting. The streets are 
irregular and generally narrow. Wash- 
ingtou and Tremont Streets are the 
principal thoroughfares. The suburban 
towns and villages of Cambridge, Rox- 
bury, Charlestown, Chelsea, Brookline, 
and Dorchester, are chiefly occupied as 
the residences of Boston merchants. 
They contain an aggregate population 
of 114,332. Boston is well supplied 
v/ith water from Cochituate Lake, 3^ 
miles long, "situate in Framingham and 
Natick Townships, 12 miles from the 
city. The whole cost of the public water- 
works amounts thus far to seven millions 
of doUars. 

Squares, Monuments, etc. — Boston 
Cotnmon is a large and charming public 
ground in a central portion of the city 
proper. The fence enclosing it is 1^ 
miles in length. It contains nearly 50 
aci'es, of every variety of surface, with 
inviting walks, grassy lawns, and grand 
83 



JOSTON.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



ild trees. It is tlie pride of the city, 
nd is Imicli admired by strangers. A 
lOet " to the manor born " thus apostro- 
(hizcs this famous ground and its noble 
ree : 

When first from mother Earth you sprung, 
Ere Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare sung. 
Or Puritans had come among 
The savages to loose each tongue 

In psalms and prayers, 
These forty acres, more or less, 
Now gayly clothed in Nature's dress. 
Where Yankees walk, and brag, and guess, 
Was but a " howling wilderness " 

Of wolves and bears. 

A pond and fountain, the site of the 
meient " Frog Pond," sometimes called 
]ochituate Lake, occupy a central point 
n the grounds, overlooked by Beacon, 
Premont, Boyleston, and Park Streets, 
>n which stand many of the old man- 
ions of the place. On the upper corner, 
he massive, dome-surmounted walls of 
he State Capitol are seen to great ad- 
'antage. The Old Elm near the pond 
s an object of much interest. It is be- 
ieved to have existed before the settle- 
aent of the city, having attained its full 
growth in 1*722. It was nearly destroyed 
)y a storm in 1832. Since 1854 it has 
)een protected by an iron fence. 



Majestic tree! 
What wondrous changes have you seen 
Since j^ou put forth your primal green 

And tender shoot ; 
Three hundi-ed years your life has spanned. 
Yet calm, serene, erect you stand. 
Of great renown throughout the land. 
Braced up with many an iron band. 
And showing marks of Time's hard hand 

From crown to root. 



And you shall sec much more beside, 
Ere to your root, old Boston's pride. 

The axe is laid. 
And long, I trust, the time will be, 
Ere mayor and council sit on thee, 
And find with unanimity 

That you're decayed; 

For you are still quite hale and stanch, 
Thougli here and there perhaps a branch 

Is slightly rotten ; 
And you will stand aild hold your sway 
When he who pens this rhyme to-day 
Shall mingle with the common clay, 

And be forgotten. 

The Common drops from Beacon Street, 
,he southern declivity of Beacon Hill, by a 

84 



gentle descent to Charles Piver. Ad- 
johijng the Common, fronting on Charles 
Street, is the Public Garden. Tliis em- 
braces 24 acres, and is ornamented with 
walks, ponds, parterres of flowers, and 
a conservatory. While in this vicinity the 
pedestrian tourist will be repaid by a visit 
to the new streets and buildings on what 
is called the '"Back Bay." Arlington 
Street and Commonwealth Avenue are 
handsome promenades. A statue to 
Hamilton, of granite, stands on the lat- 
ter. The new buildings of the Societies 
of Natural History and Technology are 
located here. Blaclstone Square and 
Franklin Square are small but ornamen- 
tal grounds on Washington Street, passed 
on the way to Roxbury and the Cemetery 
of Forest Hills. Concord^ Chester, and 
Fort Hill Squares are smaller public 
grounds. The Riverside TroUiiig Park, 
3 miles from the city, is reached by the 
Western Avenue. 

Pdblir BtJiLDiNGS, ETC.— Faneuil Hall. 
This famous edifice, called the " Cradle 
of Liberty," is in "Faneuil Hall Square," 
its main entrance being upon Merchants' 
Row East. It is 125 years old, and is an 
object of deep interest to Americans. 
Here the fathers of the Revolution met 
to harangue the people on the events of 
that stirring period ; and often since that 
time the great men of the State and na- 
tion have made its v/alls resound with 
their eloquence. It was presented to the 
city by Peter Faneuil, a distinguished 
merchant, who, on the 4th of July, 1'740, 
made an offer, in a town-meeting, to build 
a market-house. The building was be- 
gun the following year, and finished in 
1*742. The douor so far exceeded his 
promise, as to erect a spacious and beaii- 
tifid Town Hall over it and several other 
convenient rooms. The dimensions of the 
original building were 100 by 40. De- 
stroyed by fire in 1*761, it was rebuilt in 
1*763, and enlarged to its present dimen- 
sions in 1805. A full-length portrait of 
the founder, together with the pictures of 
Washington, by Stuart, and of Webster, 
by Hcaley, occupy places upon the west 
wall. Portraits of President Lincoln, by 
Ames, and of Governor Andrew, by 
Hunt, are also to be seen. The pictures, 
regarded either as likenesses or works of 
art, are hardly worthy the places they oc- 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



cupy. Faneuil Hall Market, to the east 
of the Hall, is a substantial and imposing 
granite edifice. It was commenced, Au- 
gust 20, 1824, is 585 feet in length, and 
covers an area of 2*7,000 feet. Quiucy 
Hall, over the market, is a handsome 
apartment, surmounted by a dome. 

Bunker Hill Monument, commemora- 
tive of the eventful battle fought on the 
spot, is in CharlestowD, occupying the site 
of the old redoubt on Breed's Hill. The 
observatory at the top of this structure 
commands a magnificent view, embracing 
a wide extent of laud and water scenery. 
The journey up is somewhat tedious, trav- 
ersing nearly 300 steps. The dedication 
of this monument took place June 17, 
1843, in the presence of President Tyler 
and cabinet. On the hill is a stons mark- 
ing the spot where Warren fell. Horse 
cars run from the head of Tremont Street 
to the monument. Near at hand, extend- 
ing between the mouths of the Charles 
and Mystic Rivers, and embracing about 
100 acres in extent, is the United States 
Na.vy Yard. It contains among other 
things a rope-walk, the longest in the 
country. The Dry Dock, opened June 
24, 1833, is 341 feet long, ' and cost 
$675,000. The State Prison in Charles- 
town is worth visiting. In the old grave- 
yard adjoining the prison is the monu- 
ment to John Harvard, It is of granite 
15 feet high, and was erected September 
26, 1828,' by the graduates of the Har- 
vard University. 

The State House occixpies a command- 
ing site on the summit of Beacon 
Hill, overlooking the " Common." Ac- 
cess by Beacon and Park Streets. Its 
foundation is 110 feet above the level of 
the sea. Length, 1*73 feet; breadth, 61. 
The edifice was commenced July 4, I'ZOo, 
and completed in 1Y98, at a cost of $133,- 
330. It was enlarged in 1855 at a co5t 
of .$243,204. On the entrance floor 
(Doric Hall) is to be seen Chantrey's 
skitue of Washington. Near by is the 
staircase leading to the dome, where 
visitors are required to register their 
names, and from the top of which is ob- 
tained a fine view of the city, the bay, 
with its islands, and the suburban towns. 
Bronze statues of Daniel Webster and 
Horace Maun occupy places on the east 
front facing the Common. In the rotunda 



of the building is a colleciion of flags car- 
ried by the State troops in the Rebellion 
of 1861-'65, and two brass cannon cap- 
tured in the war of 1812. The tablets on 
the eastern wall of this apartment are 
interesting. The library contains 25,000 
volumes. 

The Old State House, at the head of 
State Street, is an object of considerable 
interest. Here more than a century ago 
the " Great and General Court of Massa- 
chusetts" sat. 

The Custom-House is well located at 
the foot of State Street, between the head 
of Long and Central Wharves. The 
foundation rests on 3,000 piles. It was 
commenced in 183*7 and finished in 1849, 
at a cost of $1,000,000. It is cruciform, 
constructed of granite, and has an ex- 
treme length of 140 feet, and' breadth 95 
feet. The longest arms of the cross arc 
75 feet wide, and the shortest 67 feet, 
the opposite fronts and ends being all 
alike. The portico on either front is sup- 
ported by six fluted Doric columns, 32 
feet high, and weighing each 42 tons. 
The entire height to the top of the dome 
is 90 feet. A fine view of the harbor and 
bay is had from the roof. 

The Exchange, or Merchants'' Exchange, 
55 State Street, was completed in the fall 
of 1842, at a cost of $175,000. It is 70 
feet high and 250 feet deep, covering 
about 13,000 feet of ground. The front 
is built of Quincy granite, with four pilas- 
ters, each 45 feet high, and weighing 55 
tons each. The roof is of wrought iron, 
and covered with galvanized sheet iron ; 
and all the principal staircases are fire- 
proof, being constructed of stone and 
iron. The centre of the basement story 
is occupied by the Post Office. The great 
central hall, a magnificent room, is 58 by 
80 feet, having 18 beautiful columns in 
imitation of Sienna marble, with Corin- 
thian capitals, and a skylight of colored 
glass, finished in the most ornamental 
manner. This room is used for the mer- 
chants' exchange and subscribers' read- 
ing-room. 

The Court-House is a fine building in 
Court Square, fronting on Court Street. 
It is built of Quincy granite, and is 
185 feet long by 50 feet wide. The 
corner stone was laid, September, 
1833. In this building are held the 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



United States, State, County, City, Pro- 
bate, and rolice Courts. In the base- 
ment is the City Lock-up or " Tombs." 
In the rear of the Court-House are two 
large brick buildings knovrn as Massa- 
climcUs Block and Barristers' Hall. The 
U. S. Circuit and District Courts are 
held at No. 140 Tremont Street. 

The City Hall, fronting on School Street, 
near the Court-House is a stately edifice, 
though seen to poor advantage in that con- 
fined locality. It is of New Hampshire 
granite. The corner stcne was laid Decem- 
ber 22, 1862, and the building dedicated, 
September 17, 1865. Bryant & Gilman, 
architects. Cost, $505,191. A colossal 
bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin, who 
was a native of Boston, erected Septem- 
ber, 1856, stands in front of the building. 
This fine work was modelled by R. B. 
Greenough, brother of the distinguished 
sculptor, Horatio Greenough. The head- 
quarters of the Chief of Police and Chief 
Engineer of the Fire Department are 
in the City Hall. 

The Massachusetts General Hospital, in- 
corporated 1811, covers an area of four 
acres on Charles River, between Allen and 
Bridge Streets. It is constructed of 
Chehnsford granite. Nearby, at the foot 
of Bridge Street, is the Massachusetts 
Medical College, attached to Harvard 
College. The Warren Analorniccd Cab- 
inet and Mediccd Library are worth visit- 
ing. In the laboratory of this building, 
the fatal altercation between Professor 
Webster and Dr. Parkman occurred. 

The City Hospital is a conspicuous 
granite edifice, surmounted by a lofty 
dome. It stands on Harrison Avenue, 
opposite Worcester Square, and cost 
.$408,844, exclusive of the grounds. The 
Masonic Temple completed 1866, is a 
handsome granite structure of six stories. 
It occupies a prominent loccde at the 
corner of Tremont and Boyleston Streets, 
and is generally admired. The old 
Masonic Temple, dedicated May 30, 1832, 
stands further up Tremont Street, on the 
site of the old Washington Garden. It 
is now used for the purposes of the 
United States Courts. Ordway Hall, in 
Province House Court, in provincial 
times, was the residence of the Colonial 
Governors. Horticultural Hall, in Tre- 
mont Street, between Bromfield Street 
86 



and Montgomery Place, is an omamental 
granite Gothic building lately erected, 
much admired for its chaste architect- 
ural design and finish. The City Jail on 
Charles Street, near the Medical College, 
is an octagonal-shaped granite structure, 
with four wings, conducted on the " Au- 
burn plan." The Beacon Hill Reservoir, 
City Waterworks, completed in 1849, is 
a massive granite structure, 200 feet long 
and 66 feet high, fronting on Derne Street. 
Literary AND Scientific Institutions. 
Boston so long and highly distinguished 
for its literary character, as to have won 
the name of the " Athens of America," 
has, beside its innumerable libraries and 
institutions of learning, more than 100 
periodical publications and newspapers, 
dealing with all themes of study, and all 
shades of opinion and inquiry. The Boston 
Public Library, instituted in 1852, is on 
Boylston Street, facing the Common, near 
Tremont Street. The present building 
was erected in 1856, from designs by 
Charles Kirby, at a cost of $250,000. It 
possesses, at this time, about 130,000 
volumes. Charles C. Jewett, Superin- 
tendent ; Edward Capen, Librarian. The 
Boston Athcnceum occupies an imposing 
edifice of Paterson freestone, in the Pal- 
ladian style, on Beacon near Tremont 
Street. It was incorporated in 1807, and 
is one of the best endowed literary estab- 
lishments in the world. There are in the 
library 90,000 volumes, and an extensive 
collection of tracts. The Athenasum 
possesses a fine gallery of paintings 
(third story), in connection with which 
the annual displays of art are made. The 
sculpture gallery, 80 feet long, in the first 
storj', contains several fine specimens of 
art. Tickets to picture and sculpture gal- 
leries, 25 cents. Ihe Afercardile Library, 
founded 1820, is at 16 Summer Street, 
corner of Hawley. It has 19,000 volumes 
and a lecture hall. Spacious reading 
rooms are attached to the Pidilic, Mer- 
cantile, and Athcnceum Libraries, which 
are free to strangers. The other reading 
rooms of the city are the Merchants'' Ex- 
change, 55 State, Young Men's Christian 
Association, 5 Tremont Temple ; the 
Church, 10 Studio building, and the New 
Church, 21 Bromfield Street. The Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society, 30 Tremont 
Street, organized in 1791, possesses 12,000 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



volumes, and many valuable manuscripts, 
coins, charts, maps, etc. The Amer- 
ican Academy of ArU and Sciences, 
one of the oldest societies of the kind in 
the country (I'ZSO), has 20,000 volumes. 
It occupies an apartment in the Athenaj- 
um. Besides these libraries, Boston has 
many others ; as, the Stale Library, the 
Social Law Library, General Theological 
Library, 41 Tremont Street, organized 
April 20, 1800, etc. The Lowell Iiisiitnte, 
founded by John Lowell, Jr., Washing- 
ton Street, provides for regular courses 
of free lectures upon natural and re- 
vealed religion, and many scientific and 
art topics. We may mention, also, among 
the foremost literary, scientific, and art 
societies of the city, the Tnstitute of Tech- 
nology, and the Natural History Society, 
on Berlveley and Boylston Streets (Ad- 
mission, Wed. and Sat. aftei'noons, free). 
The La Fresnaye Collection of birds in 
the Museum of Natural History numbers 
8,989 specimens. The School of Tech- 
nology is not yet complete. It is mod- 
elled on the plan of the Conservatoire des 
Aj'is et Ifetiers, and the IScole Centrcde, 
of Paris, and, when finished, will embrace 
three departments, to be respectively 
known as the "Society of Arts," "Mu- 
seum of Industrial Art and Science," and 
" School of Science and Art." The Amer- 
ican Statisticcd, the Musiecd, Educational, 
aud the Handel and Haydn Societies, 15 
India Street, and the Boston Academy 
I of Music, are flourishing institutions. 
I! Many of the public schools of Boston 
are well worthy a visit from those in- 
! terested in the cause of education. The 
Latin and English high schools on Bed- 
ford Street are the most prominent. The 
former was established in 1635, and the 
latter in 1821. There are 25 grammar 
and 49 primary schools in Boston, occu- 
pying 638,540 feet of ground, and cost- 
ing in the aggregate |2,988,260. The 
office of the Superintendent of Public 
Schools is in the City Hall. 

Harvard University. This venerable 
seat of learning is at Cambridge, three 
miles from the city of Boston. It was 
founded in 1638, by the Rev. John Har- 
;. vard. The University embraces, besides its 
collegiate department, law, medical, and 
theological schools. The buildings are 
15 in number, all located in Cambridge, 



except that of the medical school in 
North Grove Street, in Boston. Gore 
Hall, and University Hall, are handsome 
edifices. The former containing the li- 
brary, and the latter the chapel, lecture- 
rooms, etc. Holden Chapel contains the 
Anatomical Museum. The Observatory 
and telescope are worthy inspection. * 

Churches, etc. — The churches of the 
city are numerous, as might be expected 
of the home of the Purftans. They num- 
ber 114 — the Unitarians having the 
largest share. The following list em- 
braces those most conspicuous for their 
age, historical associations, or architec- 
ture. Christ Church, in Salem Street, is 
an ancient structure, having been erected 
in 1*722. Trinity Church, erected in 1*734, 
is at the corner of Summer and Hawley 
Streets. King''s Chapel, at the corner of 
Tremont and School Streets, is generally 
visited by strangers. It was founded in 
1686. The present building is a plain 
granite sti-uctui-e, erected 1750-54. The 
stained glass windows over the altar, 
added in 1862, are much admired. (See 
Cemeteries.) Old South Church, at the 
corner of Washington and Milk Streets, 
is an object of much interest. It is of 
brick, was erected (1*730) on the site 
of the original church (16*70), which was 
of wood, and has one of the loftiest spires 
in the city. This church was used as a 
place of meeting by the heroes of '76, 
and was subsequently converted into a 
riding school for Burgoyne's troops. The 
Prince Library has- some valuable works. 
The. building opjoosite the church is said 
to mark the site of Franklin's birthplace. 
Brattle Street Church is an ancient look- 
ing Revolutionary structure, frequently 
visited by strangers. It was consecrated, 
July 25, 1773, and occupies the site of 
the old wooden structure, founded 1699. 
The " round shot " fired from the Ameri- 
can guns at Cambridge during the evacu- 
ation of Boston by the British, can be 
seen in the church walls. The late Ed- 
ward Everett, once presided over this 
church. St. FauVs Church, facing the 
Common, between Winter and West 
Streets, built in 1820, is of gray granite, 
112 by 72 feet, in the Grceco-Ionic style. 
The pillars supporting the portico are of 
Potomac sandstone. Tremont Temple, 
used for devotional pui'poses, is on Tre- 
87 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



inont Street. The- large hall lias sittings 
for 3,000 people. Fark Street Churchy 
facing Tremoiit Street, uear the Common, 
foimded in 1809, has the highest spire 
in the city. 

Cemeteries. — Mount Auburn Cemete- 
ry, about a mile from Harvard University, 
and about four miles from Boston, by the 
road from Old Cambridge to Watertown, 
constitutes one of the sights of Boston, 
and should be seen by every visitor. 
It is the property of the Massachusetts 
Horticultural Society, was consecrated 
September 24, 1831, and contains 140 
acres. It is the oldest and by many 
considered the most beautiful of Amer- 
ican rural buryiug-places, embellished 
by landscape and horticultural art 
and taste, and many elegant and costly 
monuments. Cars run from the station 
in Bowdoin Square, via Cambridge (Har- 
vard College), every 15 minutes, during 
the day, and until half-past eleven o'clock 
at night. The gateway is of Quincy 
granite, and cost §10,000. Central, 
Maple, Chapel, Spruce, and other lead- 
ing avenues, afford a circuit of the entire 
grounds, with a view of the principal 
monuments. The Chapel, an ornament- 
ed Gothic edifice of granite, with stained 
glass windows, contains statues of Win- 
throp, Otis, John Adams, and Judge Story. 
The Toiver, 60 feet high, in the rear of 
the grounds, is 187 feet above Charles 
Eiver, and commands a wide and charm- 
ing view for many miles. It is reached 
by Central, Walnut, and Mountain Av- 
enues. Forest Fond and Dell Fond, and 
the numerous fountains, lakes, and 
ponds in different parts of the cemetery, 
form a novel and not altogether appro- 
priate feature of Mount Auburn. The 
Spurzhehn Monument and the Bowdiivh 
Statue, are in Central and Chapel Av- 
enues. 

Forest Hill, in West Roxbury, next 
to Mount Auburn, is most visited of the 
Boston cemeteries. It has an imposing 
entrance of 160 feet front on Scarborough 
Street. It was consecrated, June 28, 
1848. A fine view is had from Siioiv 
Flal-e Cliff. Mount Hope Cemetery, in 
Yv^'cst Roxbury, was purchased by the 
city (ISS'Z), for |;35,000. 

Woodlawn, four miles north of Boston, 
and two miles from Chelsea, incorporat- 
es 



ed 1850, has m.any attractive features as 
a rural burying-ground. The gate-house 
is a Gothic structure, 56 feet high. Rock 
Tower commands a fine view of the Bay, 
islands, and sea. Granary Buryiny- 
Ground, adjoining Park Street Church, 
between Tremont and Beacon Streets, 
contains a monument to the parents of 
Franklin. It is of Quincy granite, 25 
feet in height. The Cemetery attached to 
King's Chapel, at the corner of Tremont 
and School Streets, contains the remains 
of Johnson, the "Father of Boston," as 
he has been termed ; and of Governor 
John Winthrop. , 

Places op Amusement, etc. — The 
theatres and other places of popular 
amusement in Boston, though by no 
means numerous, are well conducted and 
much frequented. 

Boston Tlieatre, on Washington Street, 
is one of the best conducted add deserr- 
edly popular temples of the drama in the 
country. The audiences at this theatre 
are generally large and select. 

Boston Museum, on Tremont, between 
Court and School Streets, is a spacious 
edifice. (Curiosities and dramatic enter- 
tainments.) 

Howard Athencewn, Howard St., near 
Tremont Row, with sittings for 1,200 
persons, occupies the site of the Millerite 
Tabernacle, destroyed by fire. 

Theatre Comique (Old " Aquarial Gar- 
den "), 240 Washington Street. 

Continentcd Tlieatre (Whitman's), 
Washington Street. 

Morris Brothers'' Opera House, stands 
on Washington, near Milk Street, on 
what was once the Province House 
Estate. 

Buckley's Serenaders, Summer Street, 
occupy the former "Post-office Building." 

Tremont Theatre, on Tremont Street, 
near the Common. 

Boston Music Hcdl, erected 1852, main 
entrance on Winter Street (Organ, &c.) 
This organ, built by G. F. Welcker, of 
Ludwigsburg, Germany, is believed to be 
the second largest instrument in the 
world. The elaborate cabinet-work is by 
the Brothers Herter, of New York. The 
entire cost was §80,000. 

Boston Athenceum, Beacon Street (Stat- 
uary and Paintings). 

Horticultural Hall, on Tremont Street, 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



is a beautiful edifice of dressed granite, 
much admired for its classic style and 
elegant proportions. The annual exhibi- 
tions of the " Massachusetts Horticultural 
Society " are held here. 

The Rooms of the Boston Chess Cluh 
are in Chauncey, corner Bedford Street ; 
open every weelc day and evening. 

Fortifications, etc. — The liarbor of 
Boston, as elsev/hei-e remarlied, is among 
the best and most spacious on the coast, 
and to the summer visitor affords one of 
the most striking features of the city. 
The most important and noteworthy 
fortified works in and around Boston 
are to be seen in a sail up or down tlie 
beautiful harbor. They are Forts Inde- 
pendence^ on Castle Island ; Fort Win- 
throp^ on Governor's Island, and Fort 
Warren, on George's Island. Deer 
{House of Industv}/, etc.), Long, Rains- 
ford, Spectacle, Gallop, and Thomp- 
son's Islands are also passed. A visit to 
these islands and defensive works consti- 
tutes one of the pleasantest features of 
the summer tourist's experience in 
Boston. 

Bridges, etc. — Seven bridges, most of 
them free, link Cambridge, Charlestown, 
Chelsea, and South Boston with the Pen- 
insula. These structures are among the 
peculiarities of the iilace, in their fashion, 
their number, and their length. The first 
one which was built was that over Charles 
River to Charlestown, 1,503 i'eet long. 
It was opened for travel, June 17, 1*780. 
The Old Cambridge Bridge, across the 
Charles River to Cambridge, 2,758 feet in 
length, with a causeway of 3,432 feet, 
was completed, 1793. The South Boston 
Bridge, which leads from the Neck to 
South Boston, is 1,550 ft. long. The Canal 
Bridge, between Boston and East Cam- 
bridge, is 2,796 feet, and from East Cam- 
bridge another bridge extends 1,820 feet, 
to Prison Point, Charlestown. Boston Free 
Bridge (Dover Street) to South Boston is 
500 feet ; and Wa^^ren Bridge to Charles- 
town is 1,390 feet. Besides these bridges, 
a causeway of a mile and a half extends 
from the foot of Beacon Street to Sewell's 
Point, in Brookline. This causeway is built 
across the bay upon a substantial dam. 
Other roads lead into Boston over special 
bridges, connecting the city with the 
main as closely as if it were a part there- 



of. Thus the topography of Boston is 
quite anomalous as a " mountain city in 
the sea." 

Wharyes. — The wharves of Boston 
are among the finest in the United States, 
and to the commercial and shipping man 
are worth a visit. The principal are, 
Long, Central, India, and Commercial 
Wharves. 

Steamers for the several eastern ports 
leave these wharves daily. (See " Pack- 
ets," Boston Directory, p. 535.) Steam- 
ers for Halifax and Liverpool leave East 
Boston every alternate Wednesday. 

The Railway Stations in Boston are 
seven in number, and are generally acces- 
sible by one or other of the lines of street 
cars. 

Old Colony and Newport, on Kneeland 
Street, South End. 

Worcester (Hartford and Erie, Woon- 
socket Division), corner Beach and Lin- 
coln Streets, South End. 

Providence, Pleasant Street, foot of the 
Common. 

Boston and Maine, Haymarket Square, 
end of Union Street. 

Eastern, Causeway Street, near An- 
dover Street. 

Fitchburg, Causeway Street (near War- 
ren Bridge). 

Lowell, Causeway Street (near Lowell 
Street). 

The American Telegraph Company 
have branch offices at all the leading 
hotels for the convenience of guests. 
Their principal office in Boston is at 83 
State Street. The offices of the Adams 
and American Express Companies are in 
Court Street. The principal Banks, 
Brokers, and Insurance Offices are in 
State Street. 

Principal Business Houses. — Boston, 
as the chief manufacturing and commer- 
cial city of New England, is the best 
point from which to select and purchase 
outfits, &c., for travelhng. The principal 
retail i)usiness houses are on Wasliington 
Street. 

Clothing and Furnishing. — The ex- 
tensive and well-known house of Macullar, 
Williams & Parker, No. 194 Washington 
Street, is one of the best in New England. 
Their stock of ready-made and custom 
clothing is such that they are able to fill 
any order at short notice. Mr. J. C. 



Boston.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Boston. 



ChaflSn, at No. 18G, has an excellent as- 
sortment of furnishing goods. 

Jewelry, etc. — Tliose desirous of mak- 
ing purchases of jewelry, watches, or ar- 
ticles of virtu, ^vill find one of the richest 
and best-selected stocks at the store of 
Messrs. Bigelow Brothers & Kennard, 
No. 219 "Washington Street. Their store 
is well stocked, and their goods are all 
warranted of the best quality. 

Fine Arts, etc. — The Studio Buildhiff 
is at tlie corner of Tremont and Bromfield 
Streets. No stranger should leave Bos- 
ton without visiting the picture gallery 
of Williams & Everett, No. .234 Wash- 
iDgton Street. 

The rooms for the exhibition and sale 
of the well-known Chickering pianos are 
at 246 AVashington Street. 

Among the book publishing and selling 
houses for which Boston is famous, that 
of Messrs. Ticknor & Fields, 124 Tremont 
Street, near the Common, will perhaps 
best repay a visit. It is tastefully fitted 
up, and well stocked with choice books. 
E. P. Button and Co., Theological and 
Miscellaneous Book Publishers, occu- 
py No. 135 Washing-ton, corner School 
Street, one of the oldest and most fre- 
quented book-stands in Boston. Little, 
Brown and Co., No. 110, and Lee and 
Shepard, No. 149, Washington Street, are 
extensive publishers and book-dealers. 
The publication office of the Journal is 
at 120 Washington Street ; of the Post, at 
42 Congress, and of the Transcript, at 
92 Washington Street. 

Waliamt. — This once fashionable 
and still pleasant watering-place, is situat- 
ed about 12 miles from Boston, by water, 
and 14 by land. (See Lynn.) During the 
summer season, a steamboat plies daily. 
(Fare, 25 cents.) This is a most agree- 
able excursion, affording an opportunity, 
in passing through the harbor, for seeing 
some of the many beautiful islands with 
which it is studded. The peninsula is 
divided into Great and Little Nahant, and 
Bass Neck. On the south side of Great 
Nahant is the dark cave or grotto, called 
the Swalloid's Cave, 10 feet wide, 5 
high, and 70 long, increasing in a short 
distance, to 14 feet in breadth, and 18 or 
20 in height. On the north shore of the 
peninsula is a chasm 20 or 30 feet in 
depth, called Spouting Horn, into which, 
90 



at about half tide, the water rashes with 
great violence and noise, forcing a jet of 
watct through an aperture in the rock to 
a considerable height in the air. Castle and 
Pulpit Pocks and Irene's Grotto, are visit- 
ed by tourists. 

Copp\i Hill, near the Fitchburg Depot, 
is frequently visited. In the tjurying- 
ground is the vault of the Mather family. 
Koxbury, 2 miles, and Jamaica Plain, 3+ 
miles, are pleasant places on the Provi- 
dence Railway. Lo7igwood and Brooldine 
are pleasant residence spots, between 3 
and 4 miles on the road to Worcester. 
Sharon, 1*7^ miles, occupies the highest 
land between Boston and Providence. 
Mr. Cushing^s Garden, a place of 
great beauty, is .a short distance be- 
yond Mount Auburn, in Watertown. 
Tickets may be obtained, gTatis, on appli- 
cation at the Horticultural Hall, on Tre- 
mont Street. Fresh Pond, another charm- 
ing place of resort, is about four miles from 
Boston, and about half a mile from Mount 
Auburn. The other sheets of water in 
the vicinity of Boston, worthy of the at- 
tention of visitors, are Horn, Spot, Spy, 
and Mystic Ponds. 

PhilVqj's Beach, a short distance north- 
east of Nahant, is another beautiful 
beach, and a noted resort for persons in 
search of pleasure or health. 

Point Shirley, five miles from Boston, 
afibrds a pleasant drive. The most direct 
route is via the East Boston Fei-ry. Ex- 
cellent fish and game dinners and suppers 
are obtained here. {I'afts Hotel.) 

Brighton, a station on the Worcester 
Railway, 5 miles west of the city, is fa- 
mous for its cattle market. 

JSfajitaskct Beach, 12 miles from Boston, 
is situated on the east side of the penin- 
sula of Nantasket, which forms the south- 
east side of Boston Harbor. The beach, 
which is remarkable for its great beauty, 
is four miles in length, and celebrated 
for its fine shell-fish, sea-fowl, and good 
bathing. 

Chelsea Beach,' about three miles in 
length, is situated in the town of Chelsea, 
and is another fine place of resort, with 
good accommodation for visitors. A ride 
along this beach on a warm day is de- 
lightful. It is about five miles from Bos- 
ton, and may be reached through Charles- 
town over Chelsea Bridge. Swamjiscott 



■Plymouth.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Bridgewater. 



and Fhillips's Beach may be reached on 
the same road. (See Route IV.) 



MOTTTE I. 

£OSTOJSr TO PLYUOTJTn, NEW BED- 
FOJRD, ETC. 

( Via Old Colony and Newport Railway.) 

Stations.— Harrison Square, 4 miles ; 
Neponset, 2 ; Quincy, 8 ; Braintree, 10 ; 
South Braintree, 12; Randolph, 15; East 
Stoughton, 17 ; North Bridgewater, 20 ; 
Campello, 22 ; Keith's, 24 ; E. & W. B'wat- 
er, 25 ; Bridgewater, 11 ; Titicut, 31 ; Mid- 
dleboro, 35; Lakeville, 37; Mj'rick's, 42; 
Assonet, 45 ; Fall River, 54 ; Newport, 
72. Steamboat to New York. (The 
short line, via Taunton, is 67 miles.) 

Savin Hill, Harrison Square, and Ne- 
ponset, form part of the town of Dor- 
chester, and each command a fine view of 
Boston Harbor, Forts Winthrop and In- 
dependence, the city buildings on Deer 
Island, and I)orchester Heights. A por- 
tion of the breastworks still remain. 

<5 11 i la c y (8 miles), is celebrated 
as the birthplace of John Hancock, 
Presidents John and John Quincy Adams, 
and Josiah Quincy, Jr. A marble monu- 
ment to the memory of John Adams and 
his wife, stands in the stone church, built 
in 1828. The granite quarries in the 
neighborhood are among the most ex- 
tensive in the United States. 

Braintree and South Braintree are 
manufacturing towns. The former is the 
point of departure for Hingham and Co- 
hasset, the latter for Plymouth. Express 
(steamboat) trains for New York, over 
this road, now take the short line from 
South Braintree for Newport, via Taunton 
and Somerset. 

Hingham is 17 miles from Boston, by 
the South Shore Railway, or it may be 
reached by a pleasant sail down the bay. 
Coha^seft, four miles from Hingham 
{South Shor-e Railway), is a popular sea- 
side resort. Stages to Scituate and Scit- 
uate Harbor. 

Marshjield, interesting as the home of 
Daniel Webster, is on Massachusetts Bay, 
28 miles southeast of Boston {South Shore 
R ■Iway). 

I*lym©Bitli. — Hotel, the Samoset 



House. Plymouth is 26 miles from South 
Braintree, and 37 miles from- Boston. It 
is a spot of especial interest, as the land- 
ing-place of the Pilgrim Fathers, and as 
the oldest town in New England. Ply- 
mouth Bock lies at the head of Hedge's 
Wharf. It is now much reduced from its 
ancient proportions, being only six and a 
half feet across its greatest breadth, and 
but four feet thick. The surface only is 
visible above the ground. The landing 
of the Pilgrims from the Mayflower oc- 
curred on the 22d December, 1620. Pil- 
gi-ims'' Hall, erected in 1824-5, is worth 
visiting. The Hollis Institute, incorpo- 
rated 1851, is located here. 

Bandolph and Stoughton are famous for 
their manufacture of boots and shoes. 
■ Urid-ge^vater (27 miles) is an 
ancient town. The site was granted as a 
plantation to the town of Duxbury in 
1642. It was then called "Saughtuch- 
quett" (Satucket), and was sold (1645) 
to Captain Miles Standish by " Onsame- 
gum," chief of the Wampanoag Indians. 
The Bridgewater B-omcorks are among 
the largest on the continent. They con- 
sume 10,000 tons of iron annually, and 
employ about 600 men. The manufac- 
ture of small-arms in New England was 
commenced here. A branch road runs 
seven miles to Soidh Ahington. 

Mid.tllel>oi°o (35 miles) is a pros- 
perous town pleasantly situated upon the 
Taunton River. It is the seat of a very 
popular scholastic institution. Here the 
Cctpe Cod and Taunton branches leave 
the main line. The Fairhaven branch 
also diverges for Mattapoisett and New 
Bedford, 61 miles. 

Cape Cod. aBtti tlae Sea Isl- 
aaad-S. — Those who delight in the sea 
breezes and scenery, in salt water bathing 
and fishing, will find ample gratification 
everywhere upon the Atlantic -borders, 
and especially upon the bold, islanded 
coast of New England. Besides the well- 
known haunts of the Long Island and the 
Jersey shores, of Newjjort, and of the 
numerous suburban resorts of Boston, to 
which we have elsewhere alluded, the 
Isle of Shoals, off Portsmouth, Martha's 
Vineyard, and Nantucket, oft" New Bed- 
ford, etc., we commend the summer 
wanderer to a tour through the towns and 
villages, and along the coasts of that very 
91 



Fall River.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Cambridge, 



secluded portion of Massachusetts — Cape 
Cod. Let him journey from "Plymouth 
Keck," the inner point, to Proviucetown, 
the outer verge, and he will find novelties 
in both physical nature and social life, 
which will more than compensate for the 
labor of reaching them. The Ca2ie Cod 
Railway extends along the Cape (see 
MiDDLEBORo), 49 milcs to Wareham ; '7-i 
to Barnstable ; 76 to Yarmouth ; and 79 
to Hyaunis ; or the tourist may go thence 
by steamboat, and continue from point to 
point by stage. Myviclc's (42 miles) is 
the point of' departure for New Bedford 
and Taunton. 

Taiiiatoia. — Hotel, City. Taun- 
ton, settled in 1639, is a beautiful tovra, 
of some 17,000 inhabitants, situated at 
the head of navigation on the Taunton 
Kiver. It may be reached from Boston, 
35 miles ; and from Providence, 30 miles, 
by the Boston and Providence Railroad 
(New Bedford and Taunton branch, via 
Mansfield). Taunton Green is a pleasant 
public ground in the centre of the town. 
Mount Pleasant Cemetery and the Slate 
Lunatic Asylum, opened 1854, are worth 
visiting. 

Nov 15e9l"f©i"4l. — This is a charm- 
ing maritime city, of some 22,000 people, 
situated on an estuary of Buzzard's Bay. 
It is famous for its whale fisheries, in 
which enterprise it employs between 300 
and 400 ships. New Bedford is the ter- 
minus of the New Bedford and Taunton 
Railway, by which route, via Mansfield, 
on the Boston and Providence road, it 
may be reached from those two cities. It 
is accessible also from New York and 
Boston, via Myrick's on the Old Colony 
ton, Newport route. Distance from Bos- 
and 55 miles. The City Hall and the 
Fort (Clark's Point) should be seen. 

Mai-tlasx's Vi]!ieysii.-4l aiail 
NiiiataacSiet. — These famous sea- 
islands he off New Bedford, with which 
port they are in daily steamboat com- 
munication. Nantucket may be still 
more easily reached via Cape Cod Rail- 
way to Hyannis. 

Somerset has extensive iron-works 
and potteries. Population, 2,000. Here 
intersects the Dighton and Somerset 
Railroad, now used by express trains be- 
tween Boston and New York. 

f^ali ISiver (54 miles). — Hotel, 
92 



Richardson House. Fall River is a thriv- 
ing town of nearly 18,000 inhabitants, and 
has very extensive manufactures. It is 
at the entrance of Taunton River into 
Mount Hope Bay, an arm of the Narra- 
ganset. The historic eminence of MokhI 
Hojyc, the home of King Philip, is admi- 
rably seen across the bay. Steamboat 
" Durfee," from Fall River to Providence, 
daily. 

Tiverton, the next station, has fine 
bathing, fishing, etc. A bridge across 
the Seconet River, or East Channel, con- 
nects this place with Rhode Island. The 
view from " Tiverton Heights " of Narra- 
ganset Bay and islands is very fine. 

Portsmouth Grove is a pleasnjit picnic 
resort for parties from Providence, Fall 
River, and Newport. The Army Hospital 
is extensive. 

We^vpoa-t. — (See Index.) 

MOUTE II. 

BOSTON TO WOROirSTEB AND 
SPRINGFIELD. 

{Via Boston and Worcester and Western 
Mailways.) 

Stations. — Boston, Cambridge Cross- 
ing, 4i miles ; Brighton, 5 ; N. Corner, 
6|; Newtonville, 8'; West Newton, 9; 
Auburndale, 10^ ; Lower Falls (Branch), 
12; Grantville, 13i ; ■ Wellesley, 143; 
Natick, 17i; Saxonville (Branch), 21^; 
Framingham, 21-J- ; Ashland, 24 ; Corda- 
ville, 27 ; Southboro', 28 ; Westboro', 
32 ; Grafton, 37f ; MiUbury (Branch), 
42|- ; Worcester, Lower Station, 44 ; 
Worcester, 44g ; AVorcester Junction, 
42 ; Clappville, 53 ; Charlton, 57 ; Spen- 
cer, 65 ; East Brookfield, 64 ; Brook- 
field, 67 ; West Brookfield, 69 ; War- 
ren, 73 ; Brimfield, 79 ; Palmer, 83 ; 
Wilbraham, 89 ; Indian Orchard, 92 ; 
Springfield, 98 ; West Springfield, 100 ; 
Westfield, 108; Russell, 116; Hun- 
tington, 119; Chester, 126; Middlefield, 
131; Becket, 135; Washington, 138; 
Hinsdale, 143; Dalton, 146; Pittsfield, 
151. 

Ca,iBal>B-i4lg-e. — Harvard Univer- 
sity Buildings, Longfellow's residence, 
Washington's headquarters, and the 
Washington elm, should be visited, (See 
Boston and Vicinity.) 



Worcester.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Springfield. 



ISrig'litoii ( 5 miles) is a beauti- 
ful suburban town, on the south side of 
Charles River. It is noted as a cattle 
market Winship's Garden. 

F'raan.imglia, m, in Middlesex 
County, has several flourishing schools. 
(See Long Pond). From Saxonville, on 
the Concord River, a branch road ex- 
tends to Milford and Marlboro. 

Grafton (38 miles) is a flourishing 
town in Worcester County. 

■Worcester. — Hotels, the Lincoln 
House., the Bay State House. 

Worcester is a flourishing city, 46 miles 
from Boston, in the centre of one of the 
most productive agricultural regions of 
Massachusetts. It was settled in lYlS, 
and incorporated in 1848. It is noted for 
its schools and manufactures. Quite a 
network of railways connects the city 
with all parts of the country — the West- 
ern road., direct from Boston to Albaay ; 
the Worcester and Nashua, communica- 
ting through other routes with the St. 
Lawrence River ; the Worcester and Prov- 
idence; the Norwich and Worcester ; and 
the Boston and Worcester., v/hich w^e now 
follow to the end of our present journey. 
''S\\QAmericanAntiquarian Society, found- 
ed (1812) by Isaiah Thomas, has a fine 
building in the Italian style. The library, 
of 35,000 volumes, contains some rare 
works. The Public Library, established 
in 1859, has a library of 23,000 volumes. 
Mechanics' HaUha.s a fine organ, and seats 
for 2,500. The State Lunatic Asylum, 
established in 1832, and the Oread Lnsti- 
iute, are pi'omineut edifices. A fire in 
1854 swept away a considerable portion 
of the city. The population nov/ num- 
bers over 26,000, and is rapidly increas- 
ing. 

SpriBag'iSel «!. — Hotel, Massa- 
soit House, a well-kept and justly popular 
establishment. 

Springfield is upon the Connecticut 
River, 26 miles north of Hartford, 98 
miles from Boston, and 138 from New 
Yoi'k. The apjiroach by the New Haven 
and Hartford Railway up the bank of 
the Connecticut affords a fine view of the 
city. It was settled, 1635, under its In- 
dian name of Agawam, which was changed 
in 1640 to its present name. The U. S. 
Arsenal, located here, is the largest in the 
Union. It is charmingly perched upon 



Arsenal Hill, looking down upon the beau- 
tiful town, the river, and the fruitful val- 
ley. This noble panorama is seen with 
still better effect from the cupola which 
crowns one of the arsenal buildings. This 
establishment employs nearly 800 hands, 
and 175,000 stand of arms are kept con- 
stantly on hand. Upward of $1 2,000,000 
were paid out for the construction of arms 
here during the rebellion. The lines 
composed by Longfellow, while on a visit 
to the arsenal, will recur to the mind of 
the visitor : 

" This is the arsenal. From floor to ceiling;, 

Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms ; 
But from their silent mouths no anthem 
pealing 
Startles the villagers with strange alarms." - 

This is a famous gathering-point of rail- 
roads. The Connecticut valley route starts 
hence, and furnishes one of the pleasant- 
est lines of travel from New York to the 
White Mountains, through Northampton, 
Brattleboro, Bellows Palls, to Wells 
River and Littleton, N. H. (See Connecti- 
cut Yallet, etc., AND White Mountain 
Routes, No. VII.) The Western Railway, 
from Albany to Boston, passes through 
Springfield also, and continues our present 
route to Worcester. Springfield was in- 
corporated as a town in 1646, and as a city 
in 1852. Population, 31,000. The Ceme- 
tery, on Maple Street, Hampden Park, and 
Long Hill, afford pleasant rides or walks. 
Brightwood, the residence of Dr. Holland, 
the author, is in the neighborhood of 
Springfield. 

Westfield, 10 miles west of Springfield, 
is delightfully sitiiated on the river of that 
name, and surrounded by pretty hills. It 
is the seat of a flourishing academy, in- 
corporated in 1*793. 

Fittsfield, (See Index.) 



MOUTE III. 

BOSTON TO WOBURN, LOWELL, AND 
NASHUA. 

( Via Boston and Loicelt, and Branch 
Mailways.') 

Stations. — East Cambridge, ; West 
Medford, 5 miles ; Winchsster, 8 ; East 
Woburn, 10 ; Woburn Watering-place, 
93 



Lowell.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Lynn. 



10 ; North Woburn, 12 ; Wilmington, 15 ; 
Billeiica and Towksbury, 19 ; Nortli Bil- 
lerica, 22 ; Bleachery, Lowell, 26 ; Mid- 
dlesex, 27 ; North Chelmsford, 29 ; Tyngs- 
boro', 32 ; Little's, 35 ; Nashua, 39 ; South 
Merrimac, 45 ; Daiiforth's, 48 ; Mihbrd, 
51 ; Wilton, 55. 

JEaat Cambridge (two miles) has large 
glass-works. It is connected with Bos- 
ton by Canal Bridge. (See Cambridge.) 

SomcrvUh (three miles), on the Mystic 
River and Miller's Creek, has several ob- 
jects of interest. The McLean Insane 
Asylum^ near East Cambridge, is worth 
visiting. Prospect and Winter Hills, with 
their lievolutionary memories, are in the 
neighborhood. 

Meclford (five miles), at the head of 
navigation on Mystic Eiver, has large 
ship-yards. Medford Church was long 
presided over by the late Rev. John Pier- 
pont, the poet. 

Winchester (eight miles) is a suburban 
summer residence for Boston merchants. 
It was formed from Woburn, Medford, 
and West Cambridge, and incorporated 
in 1850. Branch to Woburn (Horn Pond), 
two miles. 

Woburn (Centre) is pleasantly situated 
on elevated ground. Benjamin Thomp- 
son (Count Rumford), the inventor, was 
born here, March 26, 1'753. 

lliO-»vell. — Hotels, the Washington 
md Merrimac. 

This famous manufacturing city, the 
Brst in the Union, is upon the soulli side 
af the Merrimac, at its junction with 
Doncord River, 26 miles from Boston, 
rhe Pawtucket Falls, the source of the 
jity's prosperity and wealth, have a de- 
scent of 33 feet. Lowell, named after 
Francis C. Lowell, of Boston, was incorpo- 
rated as a town in 1826, and in 1865 its 
copulation was 35,000. There are over 
50 mills in operation in Lowell, employ- 
ng a capital of $13,900,000, and nearly 
13,000 hands, of whom about 9,000 are 
females. The Mechanics' Association has 
I librai'y of 10,000 volumes. A monument 
;o Ladd and Whitney, of the Sixth Mas- 
sachusetts regiment, killed in Baltimore, 
ipril 19, 1861, stands in the public 
square. 

IVaslaita, an important manufac- 
lUring town, 13 miles north of Lawrence, 
md 89 from Boston, is situated at the 
94 



confluence of the Nashua and Memmac 
Rivers, in the adjoining State of New 
Hampshire. The Nashua River has a fall 
of 65 feet in two miles at this place. It 
is connected by rail with Concord, Lowell, 
Worcester, Lawrence, and Wilton. (For 
continuation of this route, via Manchester 
and Concord, to the White Mountains, 
see Routes in New Hampshire.) 



ROUTE IF. 

BOSTON TO LTNN, SALEM, NEWBURT- 
POIiT, AND PORTLAND. 

( Via Eastern Railway.) 

Stations. — Boston, Somerville, 2 
miles ; South Maiden (Saugus Branch), 3 ; 
Chelsea, 4 ; North Chelsea, 6 ; West Lynn, 
10; Lynn, 11; Swampscott, 12; Salem 
16; Beverly, 18; North Beverly, 20; 
Wenham, 22 ; Ipswich, 2*7 ; Rowley 
(Amesbury Branch), 31 ; Newburyport, 
36; East " Salisbury, 38; Seabrook, 42 ; 
Hampton Falls, 43 ; Hampton, 46 ; North 
Hampton, 49^; Greenland, 51; Ports- 
mouth, 56 ; Portland, 108. 

Claelsea is one of the pleasantest 
of the Boston suburban towns. The Na'jal 
Hospitcd, Marine Hospital, and Town 
Hcdl are prominent buildings. Powder- 
Horn Hill and Mount Bellingham com- 
mand fine views. Population, 14,000. 
Woodlawn Cemetery is two miles beyond. 

Hi y 11 M. , — Hotel, the Sagamore 
Hoiise. 

Lynn, 11 miles from Boston, on the 
Eastern Railroad, is also reached by. the 
Saiigtis Branch several times daily ; dis- 
tance, 12 miles. It is charmingly situ- 
ated on the northeast shore of Massa- 
chusetts Bay, and is a famous place for 
the manufacture of ladies' shoes. This 
business employs 1 50 establishments and 
10,000 hands, half of whom are females. 
It is estimated that 4,500,000 pairs of 
ladies' and misses' shoes are made here 
every yeai-. Besides the product of the 
city, another half million pairs are 
made in the neighborhood. The Neiu 
City Hall, on the Common, comer of Mar- 
ket and Essex Streets, is an imposing and 
spacious edifice, with a fine tower. It is 
of pressed brick, faced with Connecticut 
freestone. Stages two miles to Nahant. 



Salem.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Lawrence 



Swampseoti has a fine beach for sea- 
bathing. 

Sa^lem (16 miles) extends about two 
miles along and three-quarters of a mile 
across the peninsula formed by the North 
and the South Rivers, It was settled in 
1629- '30, and is, next to Plymouth, the 
oldest town in New England. Salem was 
the chief scene of the " witchcraft " mad- 
ness in 1692. Upon Galloios Hill, a fine 
eminence overlooking the city, 19 persons 
of the town and neighborhood were ex- 
ecuted for this supposed crime. Salem 
is also distinguished for its services in the 
war of the Revolution. The City Hall, 
erected in 183Y, the Museum ( E. I. 
Marine Society), Court-liouse, and public 
ground, are the most noteworthy objects. 
Chestnut Street is a handsome promenade. 
Branch road 21 miles to Lawrence Junc- 
tion of Essex, South Reading and Salem 
and Lotoell Railways. Marblehead is four 
miles from Salem, by a branch road. 

Beverly (18 miles) is upon an arm 
of Ann Harbor, two miles from Salem, 
with which it is connected by a bridge of 
1,500 feet, built in 1*788. Gloucester- 
Branch io Rockport, 18 miles. 

TV e m la a, m. (22 miles). WenJiccm 
Pond, a beautiful sheet of water, about a 
mile square, affords abundance of excel- 
lent fish, and is much visited by persons 
fond of angling. It is also noted for the 
quality and quantity of its ice, a large 
amount of which is yearly exported. 

Ipswich (27 miles), is on Ipswich River, 
four miles from the sea. Incorporated 
in 1634. The vicinity is noted for its 
hay crops. 

N e >v !> 11 r y p © s" t . — Hotel, the 
Merrimac Hoii,se. 

Newbiiryport (36 miles) lies on a gentle 
acclivity, on the south bank of the Mer- 
rimac River, near its union with the At- 
lantic. It is considered one of the most 
beautiful towns in New England. In con- 
sequence of a sand-bar at the mouth of 
the harbor, its commerce has greatly de- 
clined. The celebrated George Whitefield 
died in this town, September, 17*70. 
Branch to Georgetown and Bradford. 
(See Route V.) 

Salisbury Beach, celebi'ated for its 
beauty and salubrity, is much visited 
during the warm season. It is four miles 
distant from Newburyport. 



Seahrook, New Hampshire (42 miles), 
is nofed for its building of whale-boats. 
(See New Hampshire.) 



MOUIE r. 

TO BEADING, ANDOVER, LAWRENCE 
AND MA VERHILL. 

( Via Boston and Maine Railway). 

Stations. — Boston, Maiden, 5 miles ; 
Melrose, Y ; South Reading Junction, 9 ; 
South Reading, 10; Reading, 12; Wil- 
mington, 15; Wilmington Junction, 18; 
Ballardvale, 21 ; Andover, 23 ; South 
Lawrence, 26 ; North Lawrence, 2*7 ; 
North Andover, 28; Bradford, 32; 
Haverhill, 33 ; Atkinson, 3*7 ; Plaistow, 
38 ; Newton, 41 ; East Kingston Depot, 
45 ; Exeter, 50 ; South Newmarket, 54 ; 
Newmarket Junction, 55 ; Newmarket, 5*7 ; 
Durham, 62 ; Madbury, 65 ; Dover, 68 ; 
Eollinsford, '71 ; Great Falls, 74 ; Salmon 
Falls, 72 ; South Berwick Junction, 74 ; 
Portland, 111. 

Somermlle (2 miles). 

Medford (5 miles), delightful summer 
residence; eight trains daily. 

Melrose (7 miles) has pretty drives in 
the neighborhood. 

IS.eaifillstg' (12 miles), in Middlesex 
County, is principally famous for its 
manufacture of boots, etc. 

Wilmington (15 miles), famous for its 
hops. 

Andover (23- miles) is pleasantly sit- 
uated on the south bank of the Merri- 
mac River. It was incorporated 1646, 
and is the seat of Bhillips^s Academy, 
founded 1778, and of the Andover Theo- 
logical Seminary, founded 1807. The 
latter commands a fine view. It has a 
library of 25,000 volumes. The Abbott 
Female Academy was instituted in 1829. 
North Andover station and village are 
five miles farther up the railway. 

BLiaT^remce (26 miles), 13 
miles from Lowell, lies on both sides 
of the Merrimac River. It has ex- 
tensive manufactures, and is connected 
with Manchester and Salem by rail. 
By means of a dam across the Merri- 
mac River, erected 1845, a fall of 28 
feet is obtained for manufacturing pur- 
poses. It was incorporated in 1845, and 
95 



Haverhill.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[FiicnBuuG. 



now contains 23,000 inhabitants. Tiie 
Common, in the centre of the town, com- 
prises 17 acres. The C/7// Hall is a 
handsome edifice. The Oliver School, 
in the immediate vicinity, and the leading 
mills, are well woi'th visiting. The prin- 
cipal building of the Pacific Mills is 800 
feet long and seven stories high ; 3,500 
operatives are employed. A library of 
3,400 volumes is sustained by the op- 
eratives for their own use. Trains to 
Lowell (13 miles), four times daily. 

Bradford (32 miles) has a flourishing 
academy. 

Msivei-liill, with which Bradford is 
connected by bridge, 680 feet long, across 
the Merrimac River, has several fiouiish- 
iug educational institutions, and two fine 
churches. It was settled in 1640, in- 
corporated 1645, and has a population of 
8,000. Branch to Georgetown and New- 
buryport. 

Oeorgetown, in Essex County, is 29 
miles *due north of Boston. The J/e- 
morial Church, erected ]866-'6'7 by 
George Peabody, from a design by Bryant 
and Gilman, and by him pi-esented to 
the town, is worth seeing. (For continu- 
ation of route, see New Hampshire, and 
Routes from Portland, Maine.) 



MOUTE VI. 

BOSrOAT TO WALTlTA3r, LEXINGTON, 
CONCORD, AND FITCHBVBG. 

( Via Fitcliburg Railway, and Branohes.) 

Stations. — Boston, Charlestown, 1 
mile ; Porter's, 3 ; Belmont, 6 ; Waltham, 
10; Lincoln, 11; Concord, 20; South 
Acton, 25 ; Littleton, 31 ; Groton Junction, 
35 ; Shirley, 40 ; Leominster, 46 ; Fitch- 
burg, 50. . 

Charlestown (one mile), jBunker Hill 
Monument, Navy Yard, and State Prison 
(fee). Population, 27,000. (See Boston 
and Vicinity.) 

West Cambridge (also street ears), 
Fresh and Spy Ponds, Trotting Park, etc. 

"Waterto-^VM, on Charles River 
(eight miles by branch road), has a 
United States Arsenal covering 40 acres, 
and several factories. (vSee Mount Au- 
burn and Mr. Cushing's Garden.) 

Waltham (ten miles), on Charles 
96 



River, has an extensive manufactory of 
watches. Prospect Hill, 500 feet high, 
commands a fine view. 

Lexington. — Lexington, the scene of 
the memorable battle of Lexington, at 
the commencement of the Revolution, 
April 19, 1775, is reached from Boston 
by a branch railway through West Cam- 
bridge — a fine ride of 11 miles. The mon- 
ument, built in 1799, stands on the green 
near the church. 

Concord (20 miles) is situated on the 
river of the same name. It was set- 
tled in 1635, and is celebrated as the 
place where the first effectual resistance 
was made, and the first British blood 
shed, in the Revolutionary War. On the 
19th of April, 1775, a party of British 
troops was ordered by General Gage to 
proceed to this place to destroy some 
military stores, which had been deposited 
here by the province. The troops were 
met at the north bridge by the people of 
Concord and the neighboring towns, and 
forcibly repulsed. A handsome granite 
monument, 25 feet high, erected in 1836, 
commemorates the heroic and patriotic 
achievement. Acto7t, till 1735, formed 
part of Concord. 

CJrotOBi Jniiction (35 miles) 
is the point of intersection with the 
Worcester and Nashua, the Slonybrook^i 
and Peterboro' and Shirley Railwayit^ 
Groton is famous for the beauty of it 
situation, and its schools. Population| 
3,172. 

S^itcIiItMi'g (50 miles), the teF 
minus of the Fitchburg, the Fitchbur§ 
and Worcester, and the Vermo7it ' and 
Massachusetis Railways, lies on a branch 
of the Nashua River, which affords a tine 
water-power. The Town Hcdl is a spa- 
cious edifice. The leading hotels are the 
Fitchburg and American. 



nOUTE VII, 

TO EOLTDKE, BELLO^VS FALLS, AND 
WHITE 3I0UNTAINS. 

( Via Connecticut River Railway, and con- 
necti07is.) 

The Connecticut, the queen of New 
England rivers, rises in the hills of New 
Hampshire and Vermont, near the Can- 



HOLTOKE.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Mount Tom. 



ada border, and flowing nearly south- 
ward for 400 miles, separates the two 
States of its mountain birth, traverses the 
entire breadth of Massachusetts and Con- 
necticut, to the Long Island Sound. The 
Passumpsic, the White, the Deerfield, the 
Westiield, and the Ammonoosuc, are its 
principal tributaries. It is navigable for 
sloops 50 miles up to Hartford, and with 
the help of numerous canals very much 
farther. The Connecticut valley is per- 
haps 300 miles long in a straight line, 
with a mean width of 40 miles. The 
soil is as fertile as the landscape is beau- 
tiful. The best approach is from the 
south, via Springfield. (See Spking- 
FiELD.) Trom Boston, the best route is 
via Worcester to Springfield, whence the 
line runs due north 50 miles to South 
Vernon. 

The beautiful valleys watered by the 
Connecticut are among the most inviting 
portions of the New England landscape, 
whether for rapid transit or for pro- 
tracted stay. The whole region is speed- 
ily and pleasantly accessible from every 
point, and may be traversed en route to 
most of the principal summer resorts of 
New England, since many important and 
very attractive towns and villages lie 
within its area, and since it is crossed 
aud recrossed, everywhere, by the in- 
tricate railway system which unites Bos- 
ton so intimately, not only with all the 
Eastern States, but with the whole coun- 
try. - 

Stations. — Springfield, Chicopee, 4 ; 
Wilhmansett, *? ; Holyoke, 8 ; Smith's 
Ferry, 13 ; Northampton, 17; Hatfield, 
21 ; Whately, 26 ; South Deerfield, 28 ; 
Deerfield, 33 ; Greenfield, 36 ; Bernards- 
ton, 43 ; South Vernon, 50. 

CJiicopee, on the south bank of the 
Chicopee River, is a manufacturing place 
of considerable note. The mills of the 
Dwight Manufacturing Company^ aud the 
works of the Ames Manufacturing Com- 
pany, are worthy a visit. Williniansett, 
(seven miles) is the point of departure 
for South Hadley Falls. 

IBolyoIie (eight miles) is famous 
for its fine water-power : the dam across 
the Connecticut at this point, built in 1849, 
is 1,01*7 feet long, aud SO feet high. 
Mount Holyoke is directly across the 
river from Northampton ; a carriage road 



three miles long winds to the summit, 
1,120 feet above the sea, where there is 
a little iim and an observatory. There 
are not of its kind many scenes in the 
world more beautiful than that which the 
visitor to Mount Holyoke looks down 
upon : the varied features of the picture 
— fruitful valleys, smiling villages and 
farms, winding waters, and, far off, on 
every side, blue mountain peaks innu- 
merable — will hold him long in happy 
contemplation. Mount Holyoke is a 
part of a ridge of greenstone, commen- 
cing with West Rock near New Haven, 
and proceeding northerly across the 
whole of Connecticut ; but its elevation 
is small until it reaches Easthampton, 
when it suddenly mounts up to the 
height of nearly 1,000 feet, and forms 
Mount Tom. The ridge crosses the Con- 
necticut, in a northeast direction, and 
curving still more to the east, terminates 
10 miles from the river, in the north- 
west part of Belchertown. All that part 
of the ridge east of the river is called 
Holyoke, though the Prospect House, 
built in 1821, stands near its southwest- 
ern extremity, opposite Northampton, 
and near the Connecticut. This is by far 
the most commanding spot on the moun- 
tain, although several distinct summits, 
that have as yet received no uniform 
name, afford delightful prospects. An 
inclined railway 600 feet long down the 
mountain side connects with horse-cars 
to the Connecticut River, where passen- 
gers take boat. 

Mount Tom, upon the opposite side of 
the river, is not yet so much visited as 
are its neighboring cliffs of Holyoke, 
though it is considerably higher, and the 
panorama from its crest is no less broad 
and beautiful. Its height is 1,200 feet. 

Easthampton, on the Granby Railway 
(five miles from Northampton), is sit- 
uated on the west side of Mount Tom. 
It contains a very extensive button manu- 
factory, well deserviug of a visit from 
those who can appreciate mechanical in- 
genuity. The principal feature of the 
place, however, is its noble seminary for 
the youth of both sexes, which was 
founded and liberally endowed by the 
Hon. Samuel Williston, at an expense of 
$55,000, and has been in successful op- 
eration upward of 20 years, having now 
97 



Route VII.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Northampton. 



an average attendance of about 200 pu- 
pils. On the east side of Mount Tom 
and on the river is the viUage of South 
Hadleii, famous as the seat of the Motini 
Holyoke Female Seminari/, founded ISSY, 
and for many years conducted by Miss 
Mary Lyon. This institution has sent 
out hundreds of graduates, as teachers, 
into all parts of the land. South Hadley 
has many spots which aiford most agree- 
able prospects. Standing on the ele- 
vated bank of the river and facing the 
northwest, you look directly up the Con- 
necticut, where it passes between Hol- 
yoke and Tom — those mountains rising 
with precipitous boldness, on either side 
of the valley ; through the opening, the 
river is seen for two or three miles, en- 
livened by one or two lovely islands, 
while over the rich meadows, that adorn 
the banks, are scattered trees, through 
which, half hidden, appears in the dis- 
tance the village of Northampton, its 
more conspicuous edifices being only 
visible. 

The village of Hadley is connected with 
Northampton by a bi'idge over the Con- 
necticut. The river immediately above 
the town, leaving its general course, turns 
northwest; then, after winding to the 
Bouth again, turns directly east ; and thus 
having v»-andered five miles, encloses, ex- 
cept on the east, a beautiful intervale 
containing between two and three thou- 
sand acres. On the isthmus of this pen- 
insula lies the principal street (West 
Street), the handsomest, by nature, in 
New England. It is a mile in length, 
running directly north and south ; is six- 
teen rods in breadth ; is nearly a perfect 
level ; is covered during the fine season 
with a rich verdure ; abuts at both ends 
on the river, and yields everywhere a de- 
lightful prospect. Hadley was settled in 
1650, by a colony from Hartford, Windsor, 
and Wethersfield, Connecticut. In this 
town resided for fifteen or sixteen years 
Whalley and Goffe, two of those who 
composed the court for the trial of King 
Charles the First, and who signed the 
warrant for his execution. They came to 
Hadley in 1664. When the house which 
they occupied was pulled down, the bones 
of AVhalley were found buried just with- 
out the cellar wall, in a kind of tomb 
formed of mason-work, and covered with 



flags of hewn stone. After Whalley'a 
death, Gofie left Hadley, and went, it was 
thought, to New York, and finally to 
Rhode Island, where he spent the rest 
of his life with a son of his deceased conr 
frcrc. 

I¥ortlasiiii5»toit. — Hotels, the 
Mansion House, an elegant establishment 
upon the upper edge of the village ; War- 
ner House, in the business street ; and 
Round Hill Insiitute, Northampton was 
settled in 1654, by planters from Hartford 
and Windsor. The Indian name \%Nono- 
tuck. It is in every way one of the most 
charming villages in New England, and 
none other is more sought for summer 
residences. It lies about a mile west of 
the Connecticut, surrounded by rich allu- 
vial meadows, sweeping out in broad ex- 
panse from the base of the grand moun- 
tain ridges. The village is not too large 
for country pleasures, the population of 
the township falling within 6,000 ; yet its 
natural advantages are so great, and so 
many pleasant people have established 
themselves here in such attractive places, 
and the hotels are so admirable, that the 
tourist will not miss either the social or 
the physical enjoyments of his city home. 
Even the little iDusiness part of North- 
ampton has a cosy, rural air, and all 
around are charming villas, nestled on 
green lawns, and among fragrant flowers. 
Among the specialties of Northarapton 
are several water-cure establishments, the 
chief of which is that known as Round 
Hill, a large and beautiful place, upon the 
fine eminence after which it is named, just 
west of the village. The schools here 
have always been in very high repute. 
The State Lunaiic Asylum is a large and 
elegant structure, built in 1858. The 
vicinage of Northampton is, perhaps, the 
most beautiful portion of the Connecticut 
valley, the most fertile in its intervale 
laud, and the most striking in its moun- 
tain scenes ; for it looks out directly upon 
the crags and crests of those famous hills, 
Mount Holyoke and jMount Tom. Flor- 
ence is a thriving manufacturing point 
two miles west of the centre of the town. 
A horse railway is in process of construc-j 
tion to Florence and Williamsburg. 

Maeliey, 3 miles east of the rail 
way, is famous for its manufacture 
brooms, first introduced in 1790. It l 



Amherst College.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Geeenfield. 



the birthplace of Major-General Joseph 
Hooker. 

AxEili.e3*st College, founded in 
1821, is built upon an eminence, four miles 
east of Hadley. The College Observatory^ 
and especially its rich cabinet collection, 
is worthy the attention of the visitor. 
The upper room ( Octagonal Cabinet) con- 
tains Professor Shepard's Miner alogical 
Cabinet of 6,000 specimens. The lower 
room contains Wood's Geological Cabinet, 
numbering 20,000 specimens. The Nine- 
veh Gallery, the Adams Zoological Cab- 
inet, and Dr. Hitchcock's Iclmological Col- 
lection, containing 9,000 specimens, and 
the Herbariimi, should in turn be visited. 
The buildings of the Ilassackusetts Agri- 
cultural College, commenced in 1866, are 
also worthy a visit. 

The Great Bend of the Connecticut is 
reached a mile north of Northampton, 
and here we take our last view of the 
river imtil we reach South Vernon. 

Hatfield, four mUes, and Whately, nine 
miles from Northampton, are nest reach- 
ed, and soon after — 

The SugaBT-tioai" KEoiisitaim 
comes into view, as we journey on up the 
valley. This conical peak of red sand- 
stone rises almost perpendicularly five 
hundred feet above the plain, on the 
bank of the Connecticut, in the south 
part of Deerfield township. As the trav- 
eller approaches this hOl from the south, 
it seems as if its summit were inaccessi- 
ble. But it can be attained without dif- 
ficulty on foot, and affords a delightful 
view on almost every side. The Connec- 
ticut and the peaceful village of Sunder- 
land on its bank appear so near, that one 
imagines he might almost reach them by 
a single leap. This mountain overlooks 
a spot which was the scene of the most 
sanguinary conflicts that occurred during 
the early settlement of this region. A 
Uttle south of the mountain the Indians 
were defeated in 16*75 by Captains La- 
throp and Beers; and one mile northwest, 
where the village of Bloody Brook (South 
Deerfield) now stands (which derived its 
name from the circumstance), in the same 
year. Captain Lathrop was drawn into an 
ambuscade, with a company of " eighty 
young men, the very flower of Essex 
County," who were nearly all destroyed. 
A stone slab marks the spot where Cap- 



tain Lathrop and about thirty of his men 
were interred ; and a marble monument, 
about twenty feet high and six feet square, 
is erected in front of the North Church. 
Table Rock and King Philip's Chair are 
on the eastern side of the mountain. 

Deerfield Mountain, rising some YOO feet 
above the plain on which the village 
stands, commands a wide view. The allu- 
vial plain on which Deerfield stands is 
sunk nearly 100 feet below the general 
level of the Connecticut valley ; and at 
the southwest part of this basin, Deerfield 
Eiver is seen emerging from the moun- 
tains, and winding in the most graceful 
curves along its whole western border. 
Still farther down is the village, remark- 
able for its regularity, and for the number 
and size of the trees along the principal 
street. Upon the whole, this view forms 
one of the most perfect rural pictures that 
can be imagined. Pocumtuck Rock com- 
mands a fine view of the valley. The 
bridge over the Deerfield River, just be- 
yond the station, is VoO feet long and 90 
feet above the water. Three miles north 
of Deerfield, and in the same valley, but 
on higher ground, can be seen the lovely 
village of Greenfield. 

Mount Toby lies in the north part of 
Sunderland and the west part of Leverett 
townships, and is separated from Sugar- 
Loaf and Deerfield Mountains by the Con- 
necticut River. On various parts of the 
mountain interesting views may be ob- 
tained, but at the southern extremity of 
the highest ridge there is a finer view of 
the valley of the Connecticut than from 
any other eminence. Elevated above the 
river nearly 1,200 feet, and but a little 
distance from it, its windings lie dhectly 
before you; and the villages that line 
its banks, Sunderland, Hadley, Hatfield, 
Northampton, and Araherst, appear hke 
so many sparkling gems in its crown. 

Mount Warner is a hill of less altitude 
than any before named, being only 200 
or 300 feet in height, but a rich view can 
be had from its top of that portion of the 
valley of the Connecticut just described. 
It lies in the north part of the town of 
Hadley, not more than half a mile from 
the river, and can be easily reached by 
carriage. 

€3a-eeiraiield. — Hotel, the Man- 
sion House. 

99 



Greenfield.] 



MASSACHUSETTS. 



[Greenfield. 



Greenfield, on the Vermont and Mas- 
sachusetts Railway, 52 miles west of 
Fitchburg, and 18 miles south of Brattle- 
boro, is a pleasant and thriving place, 
with a population of 3,500. The wonted 
New England quiet, however, is all 
around it in elm-shaded streets and gar- 
den-surrounded villas. The hill-i'anges in 
the neighborhood open fine pictures of 
the valleys and windings of the great 
river. Being connected with the railway 
systems of the west and of the north- 
west, it is a desirable place for tourists to 
rest a while ere starting upon fresh fields 
of adventure and exploration. Green 
River, which flows near the village, is a 
pretty stream, and hard by are the Deer- 
field and Greenfield Rivers. Cutlery is 
100 



extensively manufactured here. The 
neighborhood abounds in pretty drives. 
The famous Hoosic Tunnel is reached 
from Greenfield, via Shelburne Falls. 
Turner's Falls, and Bernardston, the 
seat of Power''s Institute, arc passed 
before reaching South Vernon, the 
southern line of Vermont. At Middle 
Vernon there is a charming view up the 
river, as seen from the railway track — 
Mount Chesterfield, in New Hampshire, 
opposite Brattleboro, rising up stoutly in 
the background. 

And here we will part company with 
our traveller for a while, promising soon 
to join him in further explorations in the 
neighboring States of New Hampshire 
and Vermont, i 



I 



New Hampshike.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[The "White Mountains. 






KEW HAMPSHIEE. 



New Hampshike, one of the original 
thirteen States, is bounded north by 
Canada, east by Maine and the Atlantic, 
south by Massachusetts, and west by 
Vermont. The first settlements were 
made at Dover, in 1623. It contains 
some of the grandest hill and valley 
and lake scenery in America, and is 
yearly visited by a larger number of 
tourists than perhaps any State in the 
Union. The White Mountains here are 
popularly supposed to be the highest 
land east of the Mississippi River, as in- 
deed they are, with the single exception 
of Black Mountain in North Carolina. 
These noble hills occupy, with their many 
outposts, a very considerable portion of 
the State, and form the specialty in its 
physical character. The reader will find 
a detailed mention of all these features, 
and of the beautiful intermediate lake- 
region, in subsequent pages. 

On his route from Boston to the moun- 
tain regions, the tourist will find much 
to interest him, if his interest lies that 
way, in the enterprising manufacturing 
towns of the lower part of the State. In 
its historical records. New Hampshire has 
no very striking passages — ^no important 
reminiscences, either of the Revolutionary 
War, or of the later conflict with Great 
Britain in 1812. 

The principal rivers of New Hamp- 
shire are the Connecticut, which forms 
the whole western boundary of the State, 
dividing it from Vermont, the Merrimac, 
Upper and Lower Ammonoosuc, and the 
Saco. Lake Winnipisaukee, near the 
centre of the State, is its principal inland 
water. The railway lines of New Hamp- 
shire are numerous enough to give ready 
access to all sections of her territory, and 
to the neighboring States. Occasions will 
occur for ample mention of the facilities 



which they afford for travel, as we follow 
them, severally, hither and thither. New 
Hampshire is divided into ten counties, 
viz. : B'jlknap, Carroll, Cheshire, Coos, 
Grafton, Hillsborough, Merrimac, Rock- 
ingham, Strafford, and Sullivan. Man- 
chester, Concord (the capital), Nashua, 
and Portsmouth, are the chief towns. 
The population m 1860 was 326,0*73. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

ROUTES FROM BOSTON, PORTLAND, 

ETG. 

Route 1. From Boston by Lake Win- 
nipisaukee and Conway Valley. From 
Haymarket Square, Boston, to Concord, 
'70 miles, by Concord, MaHchester, and 
Lawrence Railway ; 83 miles, to Weir's, 
on Lake Winnipisaukee, by Boston, Con- 
cord, and Montreal Railway ; 10 miles by 
steamer " Lady of the Lake" on Lake Win- 
nipisaukee to Centre Harbor (dine) ; 30 
miles by stage to Conway remain all 
night, and proceed, 24 miles, to Crawford 
House, White Mountain Notch, next day. 
Total distance from Boston to Crawford 
House, 168 miles. Distance from New 
York, 405 miles. Passengers by the Bos- 
ton morning train only reach Conway the 
same evening. Those taking No. 2, or 
noon train, will pass the night at Centre 
Harbor, on Lake Winnipisaukee, and the 
next night at Conway, reaching the moun- 
tains on the third day. 

Route 2. From Boston. Leave Hay- 
market Square (as in Route 1); 68 miles 
to Dover, N. H., upon Boston and Maine 
Railway ; thence to Alton Bay, 28 miles, 
upon Dover and Winnipisaukee Railway ; 
thence by steamer "Chocorua" (dine on 
board) to Wolfboro' (Pavilion hotel) and 
Centre Harbor, 30 miles, on Lake Winni- 
101 



Routes.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Routes 



pisaukee ; tbence by stage, via Conway, 
to the mouutains, as in Route No. 1. Pass- 
engers by morning train only, from Boston, 
reach Conway the same night. Those by 
second, or noon train, will. pass the night 
at Wolf boro', or Centre Harbor. From 
Boston to Crawford Honse, by this route, 
96 miles by railroad, 30 by steamboat, 
and 54 by stage; total, 180 miles. 

Route 3. From Boston, same as in 
route No. 1, as far as Weir's, on Lake 
Winnipisaukee ; thence, continuing upon 
the railroad, 18 miles from Weir's to Ply- 
mouth, N. H. ; dine at Plymouth (Pemi- 
gewasset House), and proceed by stage, 
24 miles, through West Campton, etc., to 
the Flume House, Franconia Notch, the 
western end of the mountains. Passen- 
gers by the morning train from Boston 
will reach the Flume House, Franconia 
Notch, the same evening. Those taking 
the second train will stay over until next 
day at Plymouth. Distance from Boston 
to Flume House, 148 miles, being 124 by 
railway, and 24 by stage. Stages daily 
from Flume House, 5 miles to Profile 
House, 22 miles to White Mountain 
House ; thence, 5 miles, to Crawford 
House. Distance from Flume House to 
Crawford House, 32 miles. 

Route 4. From Boston, same as in 
Routes 1 and 3, to Weir's ; thence to Ply- 
mouth (dine), continuing upon the rail- 
road, 42 miles, from Plymouth to Wells 
River; thence upon White Mountains 
Railway, 20 miles, to Littleton ; thence 
by stage, 11 miles, to Profile House, and 
5 miles farther to Flume House, or 23 
miles to Crawford House. Passengers by 
the early train only reach the mountains 
the same night. Those taking second 
train stay till next day at Plymouth. 
From Boston to Profile House, 193 miles ; 
to Flume House, 198 miles; to Crawford 
House, 205 miles ; 182 miles by railroad, 
rest by stage. 

BOUTES VIA PORTLAND, MAINE. 

Route 5. To Portland, 111 miles \i^ Bos- 
ton and Maine Railway, morning and even- 
ing, from Haymarket Square, via Read- 
ing, Lawrence, Haverhill, Exeter, etc. 
Through baggage for the White Moun- 
tains to be marked '■'■Portland Easf'' 
Passeucers by first train will dine in Port- 
102 



land, and take Gravid Trunk Railway, 
through Cumberland, Yarmouth, etc., 91 
miles, to Gorham, N. H. Second-train 
passengers will pass the night at Portland, 
and proceed to Gorham next day. From 
Gorham, 9 miles, by stage to Glen House, 
foot of Mount Washington. Stages leave 
Glen House every morning for Crawford 
House, 34 miles distant, via Pinkham 
Notch, also via Cherry Mountain. From 
Boston to Gorham, 202 miles ; to Glen 
House, 211 miles; to Crawford House, 
244 miles. ; 

Route 6. Leave Causeway Street by 
Eastern Railway, morning and evening, 
via Lynn, Salem, Beverly, Newburyport, 
Portsmouth, etc., 108 miles, to Portland, 
and thence as in Route No. 5. 

Route 1. From Boston to Portland, 
by steamer, every night, from end of 
Central Wharf; thence, as in Route 
No. 5. 

Route 8. From Boston to Portland, by 
railway or steamer, as in Routes 5, 6, and 
Y, and thence by Sebago Lake and Pleas- 
ant Mountain to Conway ; thence to , 
Crawford House, etc., as in Route No. 1. A 

B0UTE8 FROM NEW YORK DIRECT. 

Route 9. From New York by railway V 
via New Haven, Hartford, and Spring- U 
iield ; thence by railway np the valley of * •' 
the Coimecticut to Wells River, and from 
thence to Littleton, N. H. ; from Littleton 
by sfage, as in Route 4. 

Route 10. By steamboat from Pier 18, 
North River, N. Y., every evening to New 
London ; thence by railway to Worcester, 
Nashua, and Concord ; and from Concord 
on the east side by Couway to Crawford 
House, Route 1 ; or the west side by 
Campton to the Franconia Notch, Route 
3. A very charming route, full of ever- 
changing and increasingly attractive 
points. 

Route 11. From New York by Hudson 
River, or Hudszn River Railway, to Al- 
bany or Troy ; thence to Whitehall, and 
down Lake Champlain to Burlington, 
Vermont ; thence by Vermont Central 
Railroad through the Winooski valley 
and Green Mountains {via Montpeher), to 
White River Junction, where connection 
is made with the Connecticut Valley road 
to Littleton. 



Concord.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Portsmouth. 



EouTE 12. From New York by Hudson 

Kiver to Albany ; thence to Whitehall, 

I j head of Lake Champlain, and thence via 

I i Rutland, Vermont ; or via Bellows Falls, 

on the line of the Connecticut Valley road, 

to Littleton. 

The fashionable route is the boat route 
by Weir's ; but amid such a multiplicity 
of routes the tourist will be best guided 
by his own taste and inclination. 

BiasacSiester, 52 miles from Bos- 
ton, via Lawrence, on the left bank of 
the Merrimac, is an important manufac- 
turing town. This place, like Lawrence 
and other points in Massachusetts, has 
suddenly grown, under the development 
of manufacturing enterprise, from an in- 
considerable village, into a large and popu- 
lous city. Its charter was granted in 
1846, and it now contains 23,000 inhab- 
itants. The villages of Piscataquog and 
Amoskeag (" Quog " and " Slieag ") are 
included in the city Umits. 

Cosacoi'sl. — Hotel, Eagle House. 
Concord, the capital of the State, is on 
the banks of the Merrimac, 20 miles above 
Manchester, by Concord^ Manchester, 
and La.wrence Railroad. The State Cap- 
itol, the Lunatic Asylum, and the State 
Prison, are pubhc edifices of interest. A 
Methodist General Biblical Institute was 
founded here in 1847. Main Street, the 
principal thoroughfare, is two miles long 
and 150 feet wide. It is the home of ex- 
President Franklin Pierce. Concord has 
railway connection with the White Moun- 
tains, via Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
Railway. The Concord and Portsmouth, 
Concord and Claremont, and Northern 
(N. H.) Raihvays also diverge here. 

SfainaptOEa, 45 miles, is pleasantly 
situated in Rockingham County, near the 
Atlantic coast, nearly midway between 
Boston and Portland, via the Eastern 
Railway. From elevations in the vicinity 
there are fine views of the ocean, the Isle 
of Shoals, and the sea-coast from Cape 
Ann to Portsmouth. Hampton Beach is a 
favorite resort for parties of pleasure, in- 
valids, and those seeking an invigorating 
air. Great Boards Head, in this town, is 
an abrupt eminence extending into the 
sea, and dividing the beach on either side. 
There is here a hotel for the accommoda- 
tion of visitors. The fishing a short dis- 
tance from the shore is very good. The 



village of Hampton Falls, incorporated in 
1*712, is three miles south. 

"Tlie Isle ©f SSaoals is distant 
about nine miles from Hampton and from 
Portsmouth. These shoals are seven in 
number. Hog Island, the largest, contains 
850 acres, mostly rocky and barren. Its 
greatest elevation is 59 feet above high- 
water mark. Upon this island is a hotel. 
Rye Beach is another watering-place on 
this coast, much frequented by persons 
from the neighboring towns. 

I*©rts2iii®iitla. — Hotel, Rocking- 
ham House. 

Portsmouth, 56 miles from Boston, and 
52 from Portland, Maine, by the East- 
ern Railroad, the second city of the State, 
and the only seaport, is built on the south 
side of the Piscataqua River. Its situation 
is a fine one, being on a peninsula, near the 
mouth of the river. It is connected by 
bridges with Kittery, in Maine, and New- 
castle, on Grand Island, at the mouth of 
the river. The harbor is safe and deep, 
and is never frozen, its strong tides pre- 
venting the formation of ice. The United 
States JSfavy Tard is worth visiting. The 
North America, the first line-of-battle 
ship launched in this hemisphere, was 
built here during the Revolution. (For 
continuation of this route to Portland, see 
Maine.) 

The tourist journeying to the White 
Mountains or Canada, by way of the Con- 
necticut valley, will resume his route 
(see Springfield, Mass.) at Brattleboro, 
which, though in the adjoining State of 
Vermont, properly belongs to this chapter 
on New Hampshire, as being on the great 
highway of travel to the White Moun- 
tains. 

MrsittlelJOB-o. — Hotels, the Brat- 
tlehoro, the Wesselhcift. 

Brattleboro brings us fairly out of the 
rich alluvial lands into the upper and 
more rugged portions of the Connecticut. 
The intervales now grow narrower, and 
the hills more striking. This beautiful 
village is in a very picturesque district, 
upon the west side of the river, at the 
mouth of Whetstone Creek. It is, de- 
servedly, one of the most esteemed of 
the summer resorts of the Connecticut, 
so pure and health-restoring are its airs 
and so pleasant all its surroundings. 
There are here several large and admir- 
103 



Bellows Falls.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Keene, 



able water-cure establishments. The vil- 
lage cemelenj, which occupies a lofty ter- 
race overlooking the river above and 
below, is a beautiful rural spot. West 
River, above the town, is an exceedingly 
picturesque stream. The buildings and 
grounds of the Asylum for the Insane 
present a fine appearance. Opposite 
Brattleboro, on the east side of the Con- 
necticut, rise Wantastiquet and Mine 
Moimiains. The former is 1,061 feet 
high. The Vermont and Massachusetts 
Railroad to Fitchburg (69 miles) diverges 
hence. West Brattleboro is two miles 
distant. 

Our next stage is 24 miles, from Brat- 
tleboro to Bellows Falls, over the Ver- 
mont Valley road. 

Westminster, 20 miles north of Brattle- 
boro, is interesting as the spot where 
were enacted some of the earliest scenes 
and incidents of the Revolution. It con- 
tains the oldes-t church building in Ver- 
mont, erected IVZO. It is now used as 
a town-hall and store. The Gazette, the 
first paper issued (1781) in the State, was 
published here. 

Wcdpole, opposite Westminster, is a 
pretty village, founded in 1782 by Colonel 
Benjamin Bellows. Abenaquis, a mineral 
spring, is two miles north of the village. 
Derry Hill commands fine views. 

15ello>vs ff'alSgo — Hotkl : the 
Island House is a well-kept establish- 
ment. 

Bellows Falls is a famous congrega- 
ting and stopping place of railways. With 
the exception of some bold passages of 
Qatural scenery, there is not much here, 
3omparatively, to detain the traveller. 
Railways come in from Boston on the 
3ast, from the valley of the Connecticut 
3n the south, from Vermont and Canada 
in the north, and from Albany and Troy, 
na Rutland, on the west. 

The Falls'are a series of rapids in the 
Connecticut, extending about a mile along 
he base of a high and precipitous hill, 
vuown as Mount Kilburn, which skirts 
he river on the New Hampshire side, 
it the bridge which crosses the ri.ver at 
his place, the visitor can stand directly 
)ver the boiling fiood; viewed from 
dience, the whole scene is very effective, 
-he Connecticut is here compressed into 
narrow a compass that it seems as if 
104 



one could almost leap across it. The 
water, which is one dense mass of foam, 
rushes through the chasm with such 
velocity, that in striking on the rocks 
below, it is forced back upon itself for a 
considerable distance. In no place is the 
fall perpendicular to any considerable 
extent, but in the distance of half a mile 
the waters descend about 50 feet. A 
canal half a mile long, with locks, was 
constructed round the falls, many years 
since, at an expense of $50,000. The 
first bridge across the Connecticut was 
built here in 1785. From Bellows Falls 
diverges the Cheshire Railway (64 miles) 
to Fitchburg, and the Rutland and Bn.r- 
lington Railivay (120 miles) to Burlington, 
Vermont. 

l£eeiae, 22 miles southeast of Bel- 
lows Falls, is one of the prettiest towns of 
New Hampshire in this vicinity. It is 
situated on a flat, east of the Ashuelot 
River, and is upon the route of the 
Cheshire Railway, by which it is con- 
nected with Boston and with the Con- 
necticut River roads. It is a place of 
considerable business, there being sev- 
eral manufacturing establishments here. 
The Ashnelot Railway (42 miles) runs to 
Fitchburg, via Troy and Ashburnham. 

From Bellows Falls we pass on north- 
ward to Windsor, 26 miles, by the 
Vermont and Canada and Veryn<mt Cen- 
tral and Sullivan Raihvays. 

South Charlestown, Charlestoton, and 
North Charlestown, are quiet little aside 
villages on the east bank of the Connec- 
ticut, in Sullivan County. Charlestown 
(eight miles from Belloivs Falls) is one 
of the oldest towns in the State. A 
bridge crosses the river on the road to 
Springfield, Vermont. Charlestown was 
the extreme northern outpost in the early 
days of the New England colonies. 
There was then a rude military work here, 
called Fort Number Four. 

Claremont is also on the east bank of 
the Connecticut, in Sullivan County. It is 
a pleasant httle manufacturing village. 
The scenery in this neighborhood is ex- 
tremely fine. The banks of the Sugar 
River are very picturesque, and the chang- 
ing aspects of Mount Ascutney, which we 
now approach, are of the highest interest. 
It is upon the east side that this noble 
hill, standing solitary and alone, a brave 



Hanover.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Hanover. 



outpost of the coming Green Mountains 
on the one hand and of the White 
Mountains on the other, is seen in its 
greatest grandeur. Its rugged precipi- 
tous summits and its dark ravines have 
here a very bold aspect. Ascutney is 
sometimes called the Tliree Brothers, 
from its trio of lofty peaks, all visible 
from the southern approach. From 
the eastward and northward, at Wind- 
sor and from the west, its appearance 
is totally different, but always fine. 
It may be very comfortably ascended 
from Windsor, in a good day's tramp ; 
and the view from the summit is scarcely 
inferior in extent, variety, and magnifi- 
cence to that from any other peak of the 
Vermont chain. Its height is 3,320 feet. 

"Wintlsor is one of the pleasantest 
rural retreats of all this charming region, 
■with its vicinage to Mount Ascutney, 
and other attractive scenes of land and 
water. It is the centre of a fine agricul- 
tural and wool-growing neighborhood. 
There is an excellent, quiet, summer 
hotel here. Windsor is the seat of the 
Vermont State Prison, and the terminus 
of the Vermont Central Railway, from 
Burhngton through the valley of the 
Winooski River. The United States 
Court House and Post-OfSce is a spacious 
edifice. 

At Windsor the Sullivan road ends, 
and we continue our journey along the 
Connecticut (14 miles) to White River 
Junction, by the Vermont Central route. 

Hartland and North Hariland are sta- 
tions between Windsor and White River 
Junction. From the Otta Queechee 
bridge a fine view of the fall in the river 
is obtained. 

White River Junction is the point of 
departure, via the Connecticut and JPas- 
mimjosic River Railway, for Newport and 
Lake Memphremagog. The Junction 
House has good accommodation. From 
this point the Vermont Central road 
continues, via Northfield and Montpelier, 
to Burlington. Taking the former route 
northward, we continue, 40 miles, to 
Wells River. 

Hanover is four miles north of 
White River Junction. It occupies a 
broad terrace, 180 feet above the water. 
Here is the venerable Dartmouth College, 
founded in 1*769, and named in honor of 



William, earl of Dartmouth. Webster, 
Choate, Woodbury, and Chase, present 
Chief Justice, were of the alumni of this 
institution. 

The college buildings are grouped 
around a square of 12 acres, in the centre 
of the plain upon which the village stands. 
A new hall and gymnasium have just 
been erected. The Observatory should 
be visited. Whittier's last beautiful 
poem, " Snow-bound," presents the fol- 
lowing truthful picture of the Dartmouth 
schoolmaster : 

" Brisk wielder of the 'bircli anil rule, 
The master of the district school, 
Held at the fire, his favored place, 
Its warm glow lit a laughing face, 
Fresh hued and fair, where scarce appeared 
The uncertain prophecy of beard. 
He played the old and simple games 
Our modern boyhood scarcely names. 
Sang songs, and" told us what "befalls 
In classic Dartmouth's college halls. 
Born the wild northei-n hills among, 
From whence his yeoman father wrung, 
By patient toil, subsistence scant, 
Not competence, and yet not want, 
He early gained the power to pay 
His cheerful, self-reliant way ; 
Could doff at ease his scholar's gown 

• To peddle wares from town to town ; 
Or, through the long vacation's reach. 
In lonely lowland districts teach. 
Where all the dj-oll experience found 
At stranger hearths in boarding round ; 
The moonlit skater's keen delight, 
The sleigh-drive through the frosty night. 
The rustic party, with its rough 
Accompaniment of blind man's buff. 
And whirling plate, and forfeits paid. 
His winter task a pastime made." 

Norwich, Vermont, on the west side 
of the Connecticut, is the seat of a 
University, established (1830) by Captain 
Alden Partridge as an academy, and 
chartered in 1834. The university build- 
ings stand three-fourths of a mile west 
of the railway depot. The main building 
was partially destroyed in 1866. 

Pompaoioosuc (10 miles). North of the 
station are fine views oi Moose Hillock and 
Bald Mountain. The scenery of the 
Connecticut is here very attractive. 

Bradford (29 miles). The first artifi- 
cial globe in the United States was made 
here in 1812. Passengers for Topsham, 
Corinth, Orange, and "Washington leave 
the main line here. North of Bradford 
the village of Haverhill, and Moose Hil- 
lock, Sugar Loaf, and Black Mountains 
come in view. 

Newbury (36 miles) is one of the old- 
105 



Wells Kiver.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Centre Hakbou. 



est and most attractive places in the 
Upper Connecticut valley. It is much 
frequented for its sulphur springs and the 
fine views it commands. The Great Oz- 
Bow, north of the village, affords a pleas- 
ant ramljle. 

'Wells ISiver, Wt. — Hotel, Coo- 
sac House. 

At this point the railway route to 
Littleton, 20 miles, and thence by stage 
to the White Mountains, diverges. Here, 
too, comes in the Boston, Concord, and 
Montreal route, sending its passengers, 
via Littleton [Thayer'^s Hotel), to the 
V/hite Hills, or onward, by the Connecti- 
cut and Passumpsic road, via St. Johns- 
bury, to Canada. The Connecticut now 
assumes the appearance of a mountain 
stream ; the railways follow its bank no 
farther, and we leave our traveller to pro- 
ceed on either hand, as we have indicated, 
to New Hampshire, or to Canada. 

Routes. — The most frequented, and al- 
together most inviting route to the White 
Mountains is that by — 

liaise "Wisiiaipisaialtee. — The 
voyage on this beautiful lake is among 
the most agreeable passages in our pres- 
ent journey to the White Mountains, and 
well deserves a pilgrimage to itself alone. 
Winnipisaukee is an enchanting reach of 
pure, translucent waters, very irregular in 
form, some 25 miles long and from one to 
ten miles wide. It is crowded with ex- 
quisite island groups, indented with en- 
chanting bays ; and bold mountain peaks 
cast their shadows everywhere into its still, 
deep floods. Weir's (Bridge) has a good 
hotel. The steamer " Lady of the Lake," 
Captain Sanborn, plies daily to Centre 
Harbor, Wolfboro, etc., during the sea- 
son. Slount Belknap and Bear and Rat- 
tlesnake Islands are seen in the passage 
up the lake. 

Red Mountain, a remarkably beautiful 
eminence, about 2,500 feet high, is situated 
northwest of Lake Winnipisaukee. The 
ascent to the summit, although steep- and 
arduous, can be efl'ected for a portion of 
the distance in carriages, and all the way 
on horseback. From the southeast there is 
a fine panoramic view of the lake and the 
adjacent country. In order to obtain the 
finest views of the lake and adjacent 
landscape, the ascent should be made in 
106 



the forenoon, or in the evening from 3 to 
5 o'clock. At the latter hour, on a fine 
September day, the view of the lake and 
its islands is charming. Beyond the lake 
extends — 
"A sUimb'rous stretch of mountain-land, far 

seen; 
When the low westering day with gold and 

green, 
Purple and amber, softly blended, fills 
The wooded vales and melts among the hills." 

On the south ascends Mount Major, a 
ridge of a bolder aspect and loftier height. 
On the northeast the great Ossipee raises 
its chain of elevations, with a bold sublim- 
ity, and looking down in conscious pride 
upon the regions below ; while Kearsarge 
and Monadnock are plainly seen to the 
southwest. 

Squam Lake, lying west from Red 
Mountain, and two miles northwest from 
Winnipisaukee Lake, is another splendid 
sheet of water. It is about six miles in 
length, and in its widest part not less than 
three miles in breadth, and, like its neigh- 
bor (Winnipisaukee), is studded with a 
succession of romantic islands. This lake 
abounds in trout of the finest kind. 

Centre ISarbor. — Hotel, Sen- 
ter House. 

Centre Harbor, with its excellent sum- 
mer hotel upon the margin of Winnipi- 
saukee, is the halting-place for the ex- * 
plorer of the many beauties of this re- 
gion. White Mountain tourists dine here 
in transitu, and proceed by the eaily train 
from Boston the rest of the way by stage- 
coach, first for thirty miles through a 
country of picturesque delights to Conway 
( Conway House). The steamer " Choco- 
rua " (Captain A. Wiggin) plies regularly 
between Centre Harbor, Wolfboro, Alton 
Bay, and the diiierent points on Lake 
Winnipisaukee, connecting at Alton Bay 
with trains on the Cocheco and Boston 
and Maine Railways. 

Comuay Valley is a wide stretch of 
delicious intervale lands upon the Saco 
River, hemmed in upon all sides by bold 
mountain summits, chief among which are 
the stern cliffs of Mount Washington it- 
self. It is a delightful place for artistic 
study and for summer residences ; and 
within a few years past it has been^ 
favorite resort of the American landscape . 
painters, and has grown to be a veritable 
" watering-place," in the great number of 



i 



North Conway.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Plymouth. 



tourists who not only pass, but linger 
within its borders. 

IVortSi Ooia'w^ay is situated in the 
most picturesque portion of this valley. 
Here are two good hotels, with excel- 
lent livery. Besides the distant views of 
the White Mountain ranges proper, which 
are of surpassing interest here, Conway 
is full of local and neighboring attrac- 
tions of the greatest beauty, as are the 
broad meadows, and the wooded, winding 
banks of the Saco ; the nooks and turns of 
the Artists' Brook, and other elfish waters ; 
the Pequawket Mountain ; those grand 
perpendicular clifl's, 650 and 950 feet in 
height, called the Ledges ; the magnificent 
jieaks of Kearsarge and Chicorua ; the 
Cathedral, Eclw Lake, and Diana^s Bath 
are all within the range of an easy drive 
from the hotel. The Washington and 
Kearsage hotels at North Conway, are 
well-kept houses. Stages leave every 
morning for the Glen (21 miles), and 
Craioford (28 miles) Houses. Conway 
village and Conway Corners are a few 
miles below North Conway. They are 
most agreeable resting-places, en route, 
amply supphed with hotel accommoda- 
tions. Leaving Conway, as the tourist 
generally does, the morning following 
that of his departure from Boston, he con- 
tinues on through valley and over hill, 28 
miles, to the Crawford House, where we 
shall meet him when we have followed 
over other routes to the threshold of the 
mountains. We will, however, accompany 
liim yet on his journey from Conway, 
tlu'ough Bartlett and Jackson, by the Old 
Crawford House, and by the famous 
Willey House, the scene of the awful ava- 
lanche of 1826, when the entu-e WiUey 
family were destroyed. 

Route 2. From Boston, 68 miles, via 
Lawrence to Dover, N. LL, on the Boston 
and Maine Railroad. Dover is a pleas- 
ant town of some 8,000 people, upon the 
Jjiiuks and at the falls of the Cocheco 
lliver, a tributary of the Piscataqua. Our 
route leads hence by the Cocheco Rail- 
road to Alton Bay, the southern ex- 
tremity of Lake Wiunipisaukee ( Winni- 
piseogee Hotel). Mount Belknap (10 
miles) and Sharp's Hill afford pleasant 
exciii'sions. Here we take the steamer 
" Chocorua " for Centre Harbor (30 
miles), traversing the entire length of the 



lake, and proceed thence via Conway, as 
in Route 1. 

Route 3. Prom Boston, 26 miles, to 
the city of Lowell. (See Lowell.) Prom 
Lowell, 15 miles, to Nashua — an impor- 
tant manufacturing town, at the con- 
fluence of the Nashua with the Merrimac 
River ; thence, 36 miles, to Concord, 
N. H., and from Concord to Weir's and 
Centre Harbor, on Lake Winnipisaukee, 
and on via Conway, as in Routes 1 and 2. 

Route 4. From Boston, as in Route I , 
or 3, to Weir's, on Lake Winnipisaukee, 
thence on, without stopping, to Plymouth 
[Pemigewasset House), where passengers 
dine and take stage for the rest of the 
way ; or where they remain all night, if 
they leave Boston by the noon instead of 
the morning train. 

l^lyistoiitla, — Hotel, Pemigeivas- 
set. Plymouth is in the midst of a 
noble mountain landscape, being the ex- 
treme southern threshold of the Fran- 
conia range of the White Hills. It is 
upon the banks of the beautiful Pemige- 
wasset River, near its confluence with 
Baker's River. From Walker^ s Hill a fine 
view of the village is had. Mount Pros- 
pect commands more extended views 
The Livermore Falls should be visited. 

Waterville, 13 miles distant, is a de- 
lightful village retreat. Good trout-fish- 
ing in the neighborhood. The DcviVs 
Den, a cave situated in Campton Hollow, 
six miles from Plymouth, is sometimes 
visited by tourists who tarry in this 
neighborhood. 

The Wells River and Littleton route 
from Boston to the mountains by the 
west passes Pljmiouth, Leaving Plym- 
outh in the stage, after dinner, we reach 
the Flume House, at the Franconia Notch, 
24 miles distant, or Profile House, 29 
miles, the same evening, unless we stop 
by the way, as would be very reasonable — 
for the whole journey is through most 
inviting spots and places. The villages 
on the route are small, and there is not 
a fasMonahle hotel in all the distance un- 
til we reach the Flume ; but there are nu- 
merous small inns, where artists and their 
families are well content to pass the sum- 
mer. There is such a one at 

"West CsaiM-ptom, a little hamlet 
on the Pemigewasset River, seven miles 
above Plymouth. West Campton is be- 
10*7 



xORHAM.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Whitk Mountains. 



coming a greater resort of the landscape 
Dainters than North Couway, on the south- 
jast slope of the mountains, has been for 
several years past. The views here, of 
the Franconia Hills, are especially fine, 
md the river and brook landscape, with 
its wealth and variety of vegetation, is of 
extraordinary interest. The Pemigewas- 
3et River, which rises among the little 
lakes of the Franconia Mountains, winds 
through all the wonderful valley which 
we traverse between Plymouth and the 
Flume House. We shall rejoin our 
tourists, by-and-by, at the Flume. 

Route 5. Via Portland, and through 
Maine, on the east side of the mountains. 
This route is a pleasant approach to the 
White Hills, but more circuitous from 
New York or Boston, than either of the 
Routes 1 to 4. The Boston and Maine 
and Eastern Railways, and the boat route 
from Boston to Portland afford constant 
and ready communication between these 
cities. From Portland our present route 
is by the Grand Tnmh Railway, 91 
miles to Gorham, N. H. (See Portland 
for routes thence.) 

C^orliaaii. — Alpine House, J. R. 
Hitchcock. Mounts Moriah, Garter, and 
Hayes, Randolph Hill, Berlin Falls, and 
Lary's are in the immediate vicinity, and 
should be visited if the tourist has time. 

TTlie den. House is our next 
point, eight miles by stage from Gorham; 
fare $1 (see Hotels). 



TEE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

These mountains cover an area of 
about 40 miles square, in Coos County, 
Northern New Hampshire; though the 
name of White Mountains is, in the 
neighborhood, given to the central group 
only — the half-dozen lofty peaks, of which 
Mount Washington is the royal head and 
fron^. These noble hill-ranges have earned 
for .his region the title of the " Switzer- 
land of America." Their precise latitude 
is 40° 16' 34V' north, and longitude 
^\° 20' west. The western cluster is 
contra-distinguished as the Franconia 
range. The White Mountains (specifi- 
cally so called) extend from the Notch, in 
a northeasterly direction, some 14 miles, 
increasing from each end of the line 
108 



gradually in height toward Mount Wash- 
ington, in the centre. These respective 
elevations are, in the order in which 
they stand, beginning at the Notch : 
Mount Webster, 4,000 feet above the 
level of the sea ; Jackson, 4,100 ; Clinton, 
4,200 ; Pleasant, 4,800 ; Franklin, 4,900 ; 
Monroe, 5,-300 ; Washington, 6,285 ; 
Clay, 5,400; Adams, 5,800; Jefferson, 
5, '710 ; and Madison, 5,361. They were 
first visited by whites, according to Bel- 
knap, the State historian, by Walter 
Neal, in 1632. Their aboriginal name 
was Agiochook or Agiocochook, signify- 
ing " Mountain of the Snowy Forehead 
and Home of the Great Spirit." We will 
suppose our tourist to have made his ap- 
proach by the usually travelled route, 
?. c, from the southeast to the Central 
or \Vhite Mountain group, via Lake Win- 
nipisaukee and Conway valley, and thus 
meet him at the Crawford House, near 
the Great Notch. 

T'Bie Motels. — TJie Alpine House 
at Gorham, and the Glen House, we 
have already briefly spoken of. The 
Crawford House — a most excellent estab- 
lishment — bears the name of the earliest 
hosts of these mountain gorges. The 
story of the adventures and endurance of 
the early settlers here is extremely inter- 
esting — how Captain Eleazar Rosebrook, 
of Massachusetts, built a house on the site 
of the Giant's Grave, four miles from the 
Notch, afterward occupied by Fabyan's 
Mount Washington Hotel — ^how his near- 
est neighbors were 20 miles away, except- 
ing the Crawford family, 12 miles down 
in the Notch valley, the site of the pres- 
ent old Crawford House, at the base of 
the mountains coming from Conway, on 
the southeast — how the Rosebrook chil- 
dren were often sent, for family supplies, 
over the long and dangerous path to Craw- 
fords', returning, not unfrequently, late at 
night — how Ethan Allen Crawford was 
heir to the Rosebrook estate, and how he 
became known as the " Giant of the 
Hills " — ^how he and his family made the 
first mountain paths,* and were for long 
years the only guides over them of the 
rare visitors which the brief summers 
brought — and how they have since seen 
their home thi'onged, for weeks together, 

* The first bridle-patli was cut by Ethan 
Crawford, in 1821. 



HOXKLS.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Franconia Hills. 



like a city saloon, with beauty and fashion. 
The Crawfords are a large, athletic race. 
Abel, the father, called the "Patriarch 
of the Mountains," would walk five 
mountain miles to his son's before break- 
fast, at the age of 80. At '70, he made 
the first ascent ever made on horse- 
back to the top of Mount Washington. 
His sons were all over six feet tall, one 
of them was six and a half feet ; and an- 
other, Ethan Allen, was seven feet in 
height. 

The Glen House occupies a delightful 
locale in the valley of the Peabody 
Eiver, immediately under Mount Wash- 
ington, and in full view of the loftiest 
summits in the whole mountain district. 
The house is situated 830 feet above 
Gorham, 1,632 feet above tide-water, in 
Bellows's clearing, which contains about 
100 acres. The house has been enlarged, 
refurnished, and has accommodation for 
1,000 guests. For a base view of the 
mountains no spot could be selected so 
good. Several huge mountains show 
themselves proudly to view, in front of 
the piazza, nothing intervening to ob- 
scure their giant forms. You can see 
them before you in all their noble, calm, 
and silent grandeur, severally seeming the 
repose of power and strength. A little 
to the left is Mount Washington. To- 
ward the right of its rock-crowned sum- 
mit rise, in full view, the celebrated 
peaks oi Adams and Jefferson — the one 
pointed, the other rounded. On both 
wings of these towering summits are the 
tops of lesser elevations. In the opposite 
direction, fronting the " patriot group " 
of gigantic forms, is the long, irregular 
outline of the Carter Mountains. 

A wide, well-macadamized road, eight 
miles long, has within a few years been 
finished from the Glen to the top of 
Mount Washington, at a cost of $100,000, 
and the ascent is now made daily in 
comfortable Concord coaches in three 
hours. From three to four hours for pe- 
destrians is considered good time. The 
distance has been made in much less by 
old mountaiaeers. The best time to make 
the ascent is between two and five o'clock 
p. M., though the majority go in the fore- 
noon. The Tip Top and Summit Houses, 
J. R. Hitchcock, proprietor, are as well 
kept as the very limited markets and 



means of transportation will permit. 
Charges, $1.50 for breakfast, dinner, or 
tea, and $1.50 for bed. The sunset and 
sunrise views from these points are ex- 
ceeding fine in favorable weather. Stages 
leave the Glen House for the Crawford 
House by the Cherry Mountain road, at 
eight o'clock every morning. 

The Willey House is passed some miles 
below the Crawford, at the commence- 
ment of the ascent to the Notch, The spot 
will be forever of memorable interest, 
from its tragic story of the fearful ava- 
lanches of 1826, when the entire family 
which then occupied the house — Mr. Wil- 
ley, his wife, five children, and two hired 
men — were all buried beneath the mighty 
debris of the mountain-slides. 

Tlie Framcomia Mills, though 
in popular estimation inferior in interest 
to the eastern cluster, are really not so, 
except it be in the wonders of the moun- 
tain ascents ; and even in this, the pan- 
orama, from the summit oi Lafayette, is 
scarcely less extensive or less imposing 
than the scene from the crown of Mount 
Washington, while the , exquisite little 
lakes, and the singular natural eccentrici- 
ties in the Franconia group, have no 
counterpart in the other. In this, as in 
other ranges of the White Hills, the 
mountains are densely wooded at their 
base, while their rock-ribbed summits are 
barren, and scarred by time and tempest. 
The hills approach, at one point, to with- 
in half a mile of each other, and form 
the wild Procrustean portal, called the 
Notch. The headquai-ters for tourists to 
the Franconia Hills during the past 
season has been the Profile House. The 
Flmne House, it is hoped, will be open 
this season (186*7). 

Moiaiit Hdafayette, or the Great 
Haystack, is the monarch of the Fran- 
conia kingdom, towering up skywai'd to 
the height of 5,280 feet. Its lofty pyra- 
midal peaks are the chief objects, in all 
views, for many miles around. 

Eagle Cliff is a magnificently bold and 
rocky promontory, near Mount Lafayette. 
It casts its dark shadows down many 
hundred feet into the glen, traversed by 
the road beneath. 

Cannon, or Profile ^fountain, 2,000 
feet above the road, and 4,000 above the 
sea, is nearly opposite Lafayette, and 
109 



HE PnoFiLE Rock.] 



NEW UAMrSUIRE. 



[The Flume. 



)rms the •western side of the Notch, 
way up upon its crown is a group of 
lighty I'ocks, which, as seen from the 
rotile House below, bear an exact re- 
imbhmce to a mounted cannon. It is 
pon this mountain, also, that we find 
lat marvellous freak of Nature — 

Echo Lake, one of the greatest charms 
f this part of the White Mountain region. 
; is a diminutive but very deep and beau- 
ful pond, north of the Cannon Moun- 
lin, entirely enclosed by high mountains, 
rom the centre of this fairy water, a 
oice, in ordinary tone, will be echoed 
istinctly several times, and the report 
f a gun breaks upon the rocks Uke the 
)ar of artillery. The Indian superstition 
as, that these echoes were the voice of 
le Great Spirit, speaking in gentleness 
r in anger. 

Tlie Proiile SSoclc ; or, tlae 
Sid. Mam of tSs.e MoiamtaiM. — 
his wonderful eccentricity, so admirably 
iunterfeiting a human face, is 80 feet 
)ug from the chin to the top of the 
)rehead, and is 1,200 feet above the 
;vel of the road, being yet far below the 
.immit of the mountain. This strange 
pparition is formed of three distinct 
lasses of rock, one making the forehead, 
iiother the nose and upper lip, and a 
lird the chin. The rocks are brought 
ito the proper relation to form the pro- 
le, at one point only, viz., upon the road 
irough the Notch, a cpiarter of a mile 
Duth of the Profile House. The face is 
oldly and clearly relieved against the 
ky, and, except in a little sentiment of 
eakness about the mouth, has the air 
f a stern, strong character, well able to 
ear, as he has done unflinchingly for 
enturies, the scorching suns of summer 
nd the tempest blasts of wmter. Pass- 
!g down the road a little way, the " Old 
Lan" is transformed into a "toothless 
Id woman in a mob cap.; " and, soon 
Iter, melts into thin air, and is seen no 
lore. Hawthorne has found in this 
:eae the theme of one of the pleasantest 
r his " Twice-Told Tales," that called 
The Old Stone Face." 

The Profile Lake is a beautiful little 
ond, lying at the base of the mountain, 
id immediately under the ever-watchful 
fe of the stern " Old Man." This lake- 
it is sometimes called the " Old Man's 
110 



Wash-bowl." It is a quarter of a mile 
long and about half as wide. Bald Moun- 
lain, to the summit of which a carriage- 
road has recently been built, affords an- 
other pleasant excursion from the Profile 
House. 

The Basin, another remarkable scene 
of this neighborhood, is five miles south 
of the Notch. It Hes near the road-side, 
where the Pemigewasset has worn deep 
and curious cavities in the solid rocks. 
The basm is 45 feet in diameter, and 18 
feet from the edge to the bottom of the 
water. It is nearly circular, and has 
been gradually made by the whirling of 
rocks round and round in the strong cur- 
rent. The water, as it comes from the 
basin, falls into most charming cascades. 
At the outlet, the lower edge of the rocks 
has been worn into a very remarkable 
likeness of the human leg and foot, called 
the " Old Man's Leg." 

The Flume, the last and most famous, 
perhaps, of all the Franconia wonders, is 
quickly and easily reached from the 
Flume House. Leaving the road, just 
below the Basin, we turn to the left 
among the hills, and after a tramp of a 
mile, reach a bare granite ledge 100 feet 
high and about 30 feet wide, over which 
a small stream makes its varied way. 
Near the top of this ledge we approach 
the ravine known as the Flume. The 
rocky walls here are 50 feet in height, 
and not more than 20 feet apart. Through 
this grand fissure comes the little brook 
which we have just seen. Except in 
seasons of freshets, the bed of the stream 
is narrow enough to give the visitor dry 
passage up the curious glen, which ex- 
tends several hundred feet, the walls ap- 
proaching, near the upper extremity, to 
within 10 or 11 feet of each other. 
About midway, a tremendous bowlder, 
several tons in weight, hangs suspended 
between the clifi's, where it has been 
caught in its descent from the mountahi 
above. A bridge, dangerous for a timid 
step, has been sprung across the ravine, 
near the top, by the falhng of a forest- 
tree. 

Ascciat of Moraiit "Wasli- 
isig'tOM. — Tourists approaching the 
White Mountains from the east, via Gor- 
ham, will of course make the ascent of 
Mount Washington from the Glen, which 



H 



Ascent of Mt. Washington.] NEW HAMPSHIRE. [Tuckeeman's Ravine. 



is much the easiest and most expeditious 
(see Glen House). The journey from 
the Crawford House is nine miles, made 
on the backs of Canadian ponies, over 
the old Crawford bridle-paths. The ex- 
cursion occupies a long day, with the 
utmost industry. We made it, on one 
occasion, in midsummer, with a party of 
thirty ladies and gentlemen, besides our 
guides, and it was a gay scene — the get- 
ting en route — and a singular cavalcade 
miles onward as we wound, in Indian file, 
cautiously along the rugged, narrow path, 
trusting to our sure-footed ponies to walk 
with us upon their backs over logs, and 
rocks, and chasms, which we would not 
have dared to leap ourselves ; and sur- 
prising was the picture, as we at length 
bivouacked, and ate our grateful lunch, 
upon the all-seeing crest of the grand old 
mountain. At another time we ascended 
in the middle of October, when we could 
muster no larger group than our friend, 
ourself, and our guide. For two miles 
from the summit the way was blocked 
with snow ; so we left our ponies to take 
care of themselves, and completed the 
tramp on foot. The following are the 
relative distances from the several moun- 
tain houses to the Tip Top, on Mount 
Washington: Alpine House, 15 miles; 
Brabrook's, 10 ; Fabyan's, 9 ; Crawford, 
9 ; Glen, 1. 

The view from the summit has been 
thus described : In the west, through 
the blue haze, are seen, in the distance, 
the ranges of the Green Mountains ; the 
remarkable outlines of the summits of 
CamePs Hump and Mansfield Mountains 
being easily distinguished when the at- 
mosphere is clear. To the northwest, 
under your feet, are the clearings and 
settlement of Jefferson, and the waters of 
Cherry Fond ; and, farther distant, the 
village of Lancaster, with the waters of 
IsraePs River. The Connecticut is barely 
visible; and often its appearance for 
miles is counterfeited by the fog aris- 
ing from its surface. To the north and 
northeast, only a few miles distant, rise 
up boldly the great northeastern peaks 
of the White Mountain range — Jeffer- 
son, Adams, and Madison — with their 
ragged tops of loose dark rocks. A little 
farther to the east are seen the nu- 
merous and distant summits of the moun- 



tains of Maine. On the southeast, close 
at hand, are the dark and crowded ridges 
of the mountains of Jackson ; and be- 
yond, the conical summit of Kearsarge, 
standing by itself, on the outskirts of the 
mountains ; and, farther over, the low 
country of Maine and Sehago Pond, near 
Portland. Still farther, it is said, the 
ocean itself has sometimes been distinctly 
visible. The White Mountains are often 
seen from the sea, even at 30 miles dis- 
tance from the shore; and nothing can 
prevent the sea from being seen from the 
mountains, but the difiSculty of distin- 
guishing its appeai'ance from that of the 
sky near the horizon. Farther to the 
south are the intervals of the Saco, and 
the settlements of Bartlett and Conway, 
the sister ponds of Lovell, in Fryburg ; 
and, still farther, the remarkable four- 
toothed summit of the OJiocorua, the peak 
to the right being much largest, and 
sharply pyramidal. Almost exactly south 
are the shining waters of the beautiful 
Winnipisaukee, seen with the greatest dis- 
tinctness on a favorable day. To the south- 
west, near at hand, are the peaks of the 
southwestern range of the White Moun- 
tains ; Monroe, with its two little alpine 
ponds sleeping under its rocky and point- 
ed summits ; the flat surface of Franklin, 
and the rounded top of Fleasant, with 
their ridges and spurs. Beyond these, the 
Willey Mountain, with its high, ridged 
summit ; and, beyond that, several paral- 
lel ranges of high-wooded mountains. 
Farther west, and over all, is seen the 
high, bare summit of Mount Lafayette, in 
Franconia. Visitors to Mount Washing- 
ton should always go well clad. The 
range of the thermometer even in mid- 
summer is from 30° to 45'^. It fre- 
quently falls as low as 25°, and some- 
times to 20°, or 10° below freezing. 

1?iiclieriiiaia's Mavine is a 
marvellous place, seen in the ascent ot 
the mountains, by the Davis Road lead- 
ing from the Crawford House. It lies 
upon the right in passing over the high 
spur directly southeast of Mount Wash- 
ington. Turning aside, the edge of the 
precipice is reached, and may be descended 
by a rugged pathway. It is a long, deep 
glen, with frowning walls, often quite in- 
accessible. It is tilled, hundreds of feet 
deep, by the winter snows, through which 
111 



The Great Notch.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[The Devil's Den. 



a brook steals, as summer suns draw 
near, f:;radually widening its channel, un- 
til it flows through a grand snow cave, 
which was found, one season, by measure- 
ment, to be 84 feet wide on the inside, 40 
feet high, and 180 feet long. The snow 
forming the arch was 20 feet thick. The 
engineers of the carriage-road dined in 
that snow-arch July 16, 1854. 

Oakcs's Gulf is another fathomless 
cavern, seen, far down on the- right, in 
winding around the summit of Mount 
Monroe. Near the summit of Mount 
Wasliington, a few rods northward, is 
yet another black abyss, which is called 
the Gulf of Mexico. Its descent here is 
2,000 feet, rugged and precipitous. Much 
as we have necessarily left unseen on 
the mountaius, we must now descend, 
and with a hasty peep at some yet uu- 
mentioned scenes, in the vicinage of the 
Notch, pass on, 36 iniles, to the Fran- 
conia range, in the west. 

T'lie Crreat NotcSi forms one of 
the most interesting and most popular 
features of the White Mountain scenery. 
The Crawford House is the best point 
from which to visit it and the numerous 
other points in its vicinity. Proceeding 
up the Saeo, Mount Crawford and the 
Gianfs Stairs are distinctly visible be- 
yond the river on the right. The southern 
peak of Mount Crawford is 3,200 feet 
high, and the northern 3,500. Between 
them Mount Resolution rears its head. 
The mountains, which have gradually 
gathered about us in our steep ascent, 
here have all closed in. The maguiii- 
cent pass — the gateway of the Notch — is 
a chasm between two perpendicular 
masses of rock, approaching each other 
to within 22 feet. It was discovered 
(17 71) by two hunters, Nash and Sawyer. 
Colonel Whipple, of Portsmouth, came 
through the following year, as the first 
settler. This was the tenth turnpike 
built in the State, and was incorporated 
in 1803. Dark overhanging cliff's stand 
as sentinels over this solemn pass, 
and it has been a work of toil to cut a 
pathway through the frowning barrier. 
This gorge is some three miles long, de- 
scending the valley of the Saco, toward 
the Willey House, the scene of the ava- 
lanche (August 28, 1826), by which the 
inmates, nine in number, were lost. The 
112 



house has stood since 1793. Upon the 
north, the bold cliffs of Mount Willard 
rise to the height of 2,000 fee* above the 
Crawford House and the quiet vales 
around it. The view from this eminence 
is one of the finest, if not the finest, in 
the neighborhood of the Crawford. 

Tlse Silver Cascade, some- 
times called the " Second Flume," is a 
favorite scene, about half a mile south of 
the entrance to the Notch. It is one of 
the most charming waterfalls imaginable, 
seen from the piazza of the hotel, at a 
distance of two miles, bubbling down the 
mountain side, 800 feet above the neigh- 
boring valley. The best view is from the 
bridge. Sparkling Cascade and Sylvan 
Grove Cataract, on Avalanche Brook, dis- 
covered 1858, should be visited, if time 
permit. 

Tlie Flume is another cascade yet 
farther down the Notch. It descends 
250 feet, in two rills, over two precipices, 
and there are three streams over a land 
ledge, reuniting in a small rocky basin 
below. 

"Tlte l>evil's Stem is a mysteri- 
ous cavern, near the top of Mount Wil- 
lard, on its southern side, and opposite 
the Silver and the Flume cascades. Pass- 
ing westward from the Notch, we reach 
the valley of the Ammonoosuc, after a 
distance of foiu' miles, through ' dense 
woods, and enter abruptly into a spacious 
clearing, from which the whole mountain 
group bursts upon our wondermg sight. 
Here, upon the Gianfs Grave, an emi- 
nence of some 60 feet, the panorama is 
marvellous. In the centre of the amphi- 
theatre of hills Mount Washington, bar- 
ren, and seamed, and whitened by the 
winter tempests of centuries, looks 
down, upon the right and upon the left, 
on the hoary heads of Webster and Madi- 
son — each, on its side, the outpost of the 
mountain army. 

Tlae Amisaoaaoosiac Uiver, 
rising in this group of the White 
Mountains, and followed in the journey 
toward the Franconia Hills, is a stream 
of wonderful beauty. It falls 6,000 feet 
from its source on the mountain, to the 
Connecticut River, and is said to be the 
wildest and most impetuous river in New 
Hampshire. It abounds in rapids and 
cascades. 




lrJ9r*phie.C4:MTr(e»Ht-. 



^ 



The Crystal Falls.] 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



[Distances, etc. 



Tlie Crystal Falls, of 80 feet, 
xnd the Glen Ellis Falls, of 70 feet, are 
jn the Ellis River, the one on the left 
md the other on the right of the road 
Tom Jackson to the Glen House. The 
RermiVs Lake, Lake of the Clouds (the 
source of the Ammonoosuc River), Star 
Lake, and Spauldingh Lake are readily 
■eached from the Tip Top House, Mount 
tVashington. 

The Pool, a supplemental or tail piece 
the great picture of the Flume, is a 
leep natural well in the solid rock. A 
yalk of about a mile, directly in front of 
he Flume House, will conduct the visitor 
hither. The diameter of the pool is 
,bout 60 feet ; the depth to the surface 
)f the water is 150 feet, and the water 
tself extends 40 feet yet below. Some 
ears ago, a poor fellow was unlucky 
enough to fall into this Plutonian cul de 
ac, but he clung to a crag just above the 
■/ater until ropes were lowered, and he 
yas, wonderful to relate, fished up alive, 
ihough bruised and not a little scared. 

'ff'lae E&ixTille Mills are in the 
xtreme northern portion of the State, 
lid are as yet but little known. The 
eadiest access is by the Grand Trunk 
lailway and North Strafford, 36 miles 
orth of Gorham, and thence up the Gon- 
lecticut River, via Colebrook, to the 
\fonadnock House. Lixville Notch is 10 
liles from Colebrook. 



We have now peeped hastily at the 
eading points of interest in the grand 
rranite Hills ; much more, of course, is to 
le seen than we have space to describe, 
even mention. Before closing our 
hapter, however, we give a tabular list 
the principal mountain-heights and 
bjects of interest, with their distances 
fom each other-. 



BEAEING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

From Mount Washington 



To Mount Adams, 


4 miles, 


N. by E. 


do. 


Jefferson, 


3 do. 


N. by w. 


do. 


Madison, 


5 do. 


N. N. E. 


do. 


Clay, 


1 do. 


N. W. 


do. 


Monroe, 


1 do. 


8. W. 


do. 


Franklin, 


2 do. 


s. w. 


do. 


Pleasant, 


8 do. 


8. W. 


do. 


Clinton, 


4 do. 


B. W. 



HEIGHT, BEARING, AND DISTANCE 

Of the less important White Mountains, and 
other mountains in the vicinity, from Mount 
Washington. 





Distance. 


Height. 


Davis's Spur, 


2 miles, 


5,400 feet. 


Notch Eange, 


8 


do. 


4,500 do. 


Willey Mountain, 


8 


do. 


4,400 do. 


Mount Jackson, 


6 


do. 


4,100 do. 


Mount Webster, 


7 


do. 


4,000 do. 


Giant's Stairs, 


8 


do. 


8,500 do. 


Mount Crawford, 


9 


do. 


8,200 do. 


Mount Mori ah, 


7 


do. 


4,T00 do. 


Franconia Mount, 


20 


do. 


5,000 do. 


Mount Lafayette, 


19 


do. 


5,200 do. 


Twin Mountains, 


14 


do. 


4,700, 5,000 do. 


Mount Oarigain, 


14 


do. 


4,800 do. 


Moose-hillock, 


81 


do. 


4,600 do. 


Saddle Mountain, 


22 


do. 


4,000 do. 


Mount Kinsman, 


25 


do. 


4,100 do. 


Mount Cannon, 


20 


do. 


4,000 do. 


Mount Whitefaoe, 


24 


do. 


4,100 do. 


Chicorua, 


22 


do. 


3,600 do. 


Kearsarge, 


15 


do. 


8,400 do. 



The route which the tourist and pleas- 
ure-seeker from New York or Boston has 
just travelled, via the Connecticut River, 
and that by Lake Champlain (see New 
York, in the first chapter of the Hand- 
book,) will of necessity have introduced 
him to many points of interest in the 
Green Mountain State (Vermont). We 
will now point out and briefly describe 
such others as he will desire to visit in 
the course of his summer rambles in the 
North. 

113 



Vermont.] 



VERMONT. 



[Routes. 



YERMONT. 



Vermont, named from the Frencli 
Vert Monts, i. e., " Green Mountains," is 
tlie most northwestern of the New Eng- 
land States. It lies between 42° 44' and 
45° north latitude, and between '71° 25' 
and 73° 26' west longitude ; and is 
bounded north by Canada ; east by New 
Hampshire, from which it is separated 
by the Connecticut River ; south by 
Massachusetts, and west by Lake Cham- 
plain and New Yoi-k. It is 150 miles in 
length, and 85 in its greatest breadth, 
embracing an area of about 10,000 square 
miles. Vermont was first settled by Mas- 
sachusetts emigrants at Fort Dummer 
(Brattlebpro) in 1724, and was the first 
member of the Confederacy added to the 
original thirteen States, March 4, 1791. 
In this State occurred the battle of Ben- 
nington (August 16, 1777), in which 
the British were defeated, the State is 
divided into 14 counties. Montpelier is 
the capital, and Burlington, Rutland, 
Brattleboro, St. Albans, and Woodstock, 
are the chief towns. Population in 1860, 
314,369. 

The thousand point* of interest among 
the Green Hills of Vermont have not 
yet received their due meed of favor 
from tourists, but their claims to atten- 
tion are now generally admitted. The 
mountain chain extends from near New 
Haven, in Connecticut, northward through 
Massachusetts and Vermont, into Can- 
ada; thougli, properly speaking, it lies 
in Vermont alone, where are the chief 
summits of Mansfield, Camel's Hump, 
ConnelFs Peak, Shrewsbury Mountain, 
South Peak, Killington Peak, Ascutney 
Mountain (on the Connecticut), and others. 
After the White Mountains of New Hamp- 
shire, the Green Hills rank with the 
noblest mountain groups east of the Rocky 
Mountains — with the Blue Ridge in North 
114 



Carolina, Georgia, and Virginia, the Al- 
leghanies in Pennsylvania, and the Kaats- 
kills and the Adirondacks in New York. 
Routes. — The principal routes in Ver- 
mont, as in the adjoining State of New 
Hampshire, through which we have just 
travelled, are those which lie along the 
main railway lines, traversing the State 
north and south, and forming in their main 
features a continuation of the railway 
system of New Hampshire and Connecti- 
cut, which we have followed in our jour- 
neyings from New York and Springfield, by 
the banks of the beautiful Connecticut. 
They are the Vermont Genh-al and Ver- 
mont ajid Canada Railways, affording a 
continuous fine from Bellows Falls, 184 
miles, to Rouse's Point ; the Connecticut 
and Passum.psic River Railioay ; the Ver- 
mont Valley and Vermont and MassacJiu- 
setfs Railways, connecting Bellows Falls 
southward Vi^ith Brattleboro aud Green- 
field (see Connecticut R^vee and Branch- 
es), and linking, by means of the roads 
just enumerated, the great cities of the 
North American seaboard with Canada 
and the other British possessions beyond 
the great St. Lawrence River. The Rut- 
land and Burlington Railroad (120 miles) 
connects these cities with Bellows Falls. 
Visitors to the White Mountains will pro- 
ceed, as before directed, via Wells River 
to Littleton, and thence by stage, while 
those bound for the Green Mountains, 
Lake Champlain, or Montreal, will pro- 
ceed thither by the Central Railway, via 
Montpelier and Burlington. The Ver- 
mont Central Railway, from Burliugton 
eastward, via Montpelier, to the shores of 
the Connecticut River (White River Junc- 
tion), traverses the valley of the Winoo- 
ski, by the- banks of the Winooski River, 
and gives easy access to Mount Camel's 
Hump and Mount Mansfield. 



i 



Watekbuey.] 



VERMONT. 



[Mount Mansfield. 



The Valley and River of WinoosM. — 
The Winooski traverses almost the en- 
tire breadth of northern Vermont. Rising 
in Caledonia County, its coxirse is generally 
westward to Lake Champlain, 40 miles 
from which it passes through Montpelier. 
Some of its valley passages are scenes of 
great pastoral beauty, strongly contrasted 
with high mountain surroundings, the 
singularly-formed peak of Camel's Hump 
continually showing itself, sometimes 
barely peeping over intervening ranges, 
and again — as near the middle of the 
valley stretch — coming into full display. 
In places, the V/inooski is a wild turbu- 
lent water, dashing over stern precipices 
and through rugged defiles. It is found 
in this rough mood just above the village 
of Winooski, a few miles from Burling- 
ton, where the waters rush in rapid -and 
cascade through a ravine 100 feet deep. 
This picture is favorably seen from the 
railway. Passing on into the open valley 
lands, which succeed, Mount Camel's 
Hump comes finely into view, as the cen- 
tral and crowning point of one of the 
sweetest pictures of all this region. 

"Wsatea-toiary, nine miles from 
Montpelier and 113 fl-oni Bellows Falls, 
has a good hotel and an extensive willow- 
ware manufactory. From Waterbury 
pleasant detours, in favorable weather, 
may be made to Moimd Mansfield and 
the CameVs Hump. 

Motimt Camel's MMmp, the 
most sahent feature in the Winooski 
landscape, is, nest to Mansfield, the 
highest of all the Green Mountain peaks, 
having an elevation of 4,188 feet. It 
may be ascended, without much difficulty, 
from any side, though the usual point of 
access is at Duxbury^ from whence car- 
riages can pass to within three miles of 
the summit. The mountain is crowned 
by jagged, barren rocks, and the impos- 
ing scene which the lofty heights over- 
look is in no way obstructed by the forest 
veil, which often disappoints the hope- 
ful cUmber of forbidding mountain-tops. 
Bolton Falls afford a pleasant excursion 
from the Hump. 

MoT-imt Wlasasfield, the loftiest 
(4,469 feet) of the Green Hills, is 15 
miles from Waterbury Station. It is 
easily reached from the village of Under- 
bill Centre on the north, or yet more 



easily from the pleasant village of Stowe 
on the south, both of which points may 
be reached from the Vermont Central 
road — Underbill from Jonesville station, 
and Stowe from Waterbury. Stages 
leave Waterbury for Stowe (10 miles) on 
aiTival of trains. Mansfield is 20 miles 
from Burlington. The views of the moun- 
tain itself, its cliffs and peaks, are very 
grand from many points in the path 
upward, and the panorama unfolded upon 
the summit is, if possible, finer than that 
from the Camel's Hump. Lake Cham- 
plain and the Adirondack peaks lie to the 
westward, while the White Mountains of 
New Hampshire are seen on the east ; 
and, again, the many crests of the Green 
Hills, with their intervening vales and 
lakes and villages, stretch out toward 
the south. In favorable conditions of the 
weather and atmosphere, Montreal, '70 
miles distant, can be seen with the naked 
eye. The Mansfield House and the Sum 
niit House, both owned by the Mansfield 
Hotel Company, are well-kept houses. 
Price, $3 50 per day. The latter, which 
is nine miles (three hours) from the 
Mansfield House, commands a most lovely 
view. The Moss Glen Falls are some- 
times visited. They are on the north- 
eastern slope of Worcester Mountain, four 
miles from the Mansfield House. 

ISwi-liiij^toii, 144 miles from Bel- 
lows Falls, is the northern terminus of 
the Rutland and Burlington Railway (see 
p. 50). 

§to Altoams, 161 miles from Bel- 
lows Falls, 17 north of Burlington, and 3 
miles east of St. Albans Bay (Lake 
Champlain), contains a handsome square, 
and a population of 5,000. Large quan- 
tities of butter and cheese are 'Shipped 
hence. The Weldon House is a weU-con- 
ducted hotel. Highgate and Alburg 
Springs, 16 miles, are reached by rail en 
route to Rouse's Point, New York. (For 
continuation of this route to St. Johns, 
see Montreal.) 

IS. 11 1 1 a n. A, — Hotels, JBardwell 
House, Central House. 

Rutland is near the western border of 
Vermont, south of the centre of the 
State, and nearly east of Whitehall, at 
the upper extremity of Lake Champlain. 
It is an important railway centre, and 
commands ready access to all parts of 
115 



KiLLiNGTON Peak.] 



VERMONT. 



[MlDDLEBURY 



the State and country. The Troy, Wliite- 
hall, and Caslleton (Rensselaer and Sara- 
toga) Railroad, 95 miles, unites Rutland 
with Troy and Albany, via Whitehall and 
Saratoga Springs. Rutland is also con- 
nected with Troy and Albany, by the Rut- 
land and Washington Railroad, via Eagle 
Bridge, 85 miles ; and yet again, via North 
Bennington, by the Troy and JBodon and 
Western Vermont roads, 84 miles. The 
famous Hoosick Tunnel and Falls are 
near the line of this route, one mile from 
Hoosick Falls Junction, and four from 
Eagle Bridge Station (see North Adams). 
Northward it is connected with Burling- 
ton, and all the routes which intersect at 
that point, by the Rutland and Burling- 
ton Railroad, 68 miles, and eastward with 
Bellows Falls, on the Connecticut, 52 
miles, by a continuation of the same line. 
Rutland is a pleasant town, with a popu- 
lation of about 8,000, situated in the 
midst of some of the finest of the Ver- 
mont hill and valley scenery, at the foot 
of the western slope of the Green 
Mountains. Otter Creek, a most pictu- 
resque stream in all its course, passes by 
the village, and KilUngton Peak is ad- 
mirably seen as the leading feature in 
the landscape around. 

Milliaag'tOBa I"eal«:, rising grandly 
on the east of Rutland, is the third in 
rank of the mountains of Vermont. A 
visit to this peak makes a pleasant excur- 
sion from the neighborhood. To the foot 
of the mountain the distance is seven 
miles, and two miles more to the summit. 
On the north side is a perpendicular ledge 
of 200 feet, called Capitol Rock. Mount 
Ida, too, is hereabouts, and beyond Kil- 
Ungton Peak, as seen from Rutland, and 
northward are Mount Pico and Castleton 
Ridge, shutting out the view of Lake 
Champlain. 

'S^lae Clavemiloia Spx-imgs, a, 
favorite place of resort, is a few miles 
south of Rutland, on the Rutland and 
Washington Railitoad. Stages run from 
West Rutland Station, 4 miles south of 
Rutland. The medicinal virtues of these 
waters, the varied and beautiful scenery, 
the pleasant drives around, and the excel- 
lent hotel accommodations, make this 
watering-place a very desirable summer 
halt. 

Tlie Otter Creelc Falls, at 
116 



Vergennes (see Middlebury), are upon the 
Otter Creek, about seven miles from 
Lake Champlain. The brook is 500 feet 
in width, divided by a fine island, on either 
side of which the fall leaps some 30 or 
40 feet. There are many other beautiful 
cascades in the Otter Creek ; some at 
Middlebury, above Rutland; and a few 
miles below Middlebury, still others of 
yet greater interest. The Elgin Spring 
is in the neighborhood of the Otter Creek 
cascades. 

Ijalce l>niimoi*c is a beautiful 
water, 30 miles above Rutland. It is near 
the railway line to Burlington, eight miles 
(by stage) from Middlebury. Dunmore is 
a wonderfully picturesque lake, surround- 
ed at most points by bold hills, seen here 
in verdant slopes, and there in rocky 
bluff and chlf. The lake is about five 
miles in length and three in breadth, and 
affords capital fishing. A good summer 
hotel and several cottages are on the 
west bank. 

Kiake Castleton, in this neigh- 
borhood, is also a most interesting scene. 

From Rutland eastward, via Mount 
Holly and Ludlow, the latter station being 
27 miles from Bellows Falls, the route lies 
amidst the beauties of the Queechy Valley, 
replete with deUghtful pictures of run- 
ning and falling waters, and of grassy 
meadows and wooded hills. 

Miil«ilel9Mi-y, 83 miles from Rut- 
land, via the Rutland and Burlington 
Railroad, is upon the Otter Ci-eek, near 
some fine falls on that stream, and a few 
miles only from Lake Dunmore. It has 
a population (the township) of some 
4,000, and, like nearly all the villages in 
Vermont, is a very beautiful place, sur- 
rounded at all points by most attractive 
mountain scenery. It is distinguished 
a:; one of the first manufacturing towns 
in th.e State, and also as the seat of 
Middlebury College, founded in 1800. Its 
chief edifice is 100 feet long and four 
stories high, built of stone. Extensive 
marble quarries are in the neighborhood. 

SSi'asidloii, 17 miles north of Rut- 
land, is a flourishing to^Ti, finely watered 
by Otter Creek, Mill River, and Spring 
Pond, on which waters are good mill- 
seats. Minerals of fine quality are found 
in this town. There are here two curi- 
ous caverns formed' of limestone, . the 



Bennington.] 



VERMONT. 



[Lake Memphremagoq. 



largest containing two apartments, each 
from 16 to 20 feet square. It is entered 
by descending from the surface about 20 
feet. 

JSeianisag'toia is at the meeting of 
the Troy and Boston and the West€r7i 
Vermont Railways, in the extreme south- 
west corner of the State. It is famous 
as the scene of the battle of Bennington 
(August 16, 1'7'7'7), in which a detachment 
of the British forces, under Colonel Baum, 
was terribly beaten by the Green Moun- 
tain Boys, led by the intrepid General 
Stark. It was upon the occasion of this 
memorable engagement that Stark is re- 
ported to have made the famous address 
to his troops: "See there, men ! there 
are the red-coats ! Before to-night they 
are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow !" 
The manufactories of the United States 
Pottery Company at Bennington are well 
deserving of a visit. Fine porcelain and 
Parian ware are made here, the vicinage 
yielding the necessary materials in abun- 
dant and excellent supply. Bennington 
Centre is the county seat. North Ben- 
nington on Paran Creek, fotir miles north- 
west of Bennington Centre, is on the 
Western Vermont Railroad, 51 miles 
south of Rutland ; connections four times 
daily north and south, via Bennington. 

"Willoitg'Ii'foy I^ake is a popular 
resort in Orleans County, Yermont, lying 
upon the Canada line, 25 miles south of 
Newport and six from West Burke. This 
lake is nearly six miles long, and ex- 
tremely picturesque. Two peaks, respec- 
tively 1,950 and 1,500 feet high, rise one 
on either side of the lake, and command 
fine views. The route is by the Connecti- 
cut and Passumpsic Railroad (see Con- 
necticut Valley), via Wells River and 
St. Johnsbury, to West Burke, and thence 
by stage. It is also reached in a few 
hours by stage from Island Pond, on the 
Grand Trunk Railway. The Willoughby 
Lake House has good accommodations. 

Hialce MemplireiM.agog' is a 
beautiful sheet of water, situated partly in 
Vermont and partly in Canada. It is 
35 miles long, and varies from 2 to 5 
miles in width. Its shores are rock- 
bound, and indented with beautiful bays, 
between which jut out bold wooded head- 
lands, backed by mountain ranges. 
Numerous picturesque islands dot its 



surface. Muscalonge trout are taken here 
in great perfection. Newport, at the head 
of the lake, has two hotels and several 
churches, and a population of about 
1,000. The MempTvremagog House is a 
well-kept hotel ; Bush and Pender, pro- 
prietors. Prospect Hill, south of the vil- 
lage, commands a fine view of the lake 
and surrounding elevations, prominent 
among which are OwVs Head, Mount 
Elephantis, Mount Orford, Jay Peak, 
and Wil.loughhy Mountain. The steamer 
" Mountain Maid," Captain Fogg, leaves 
the hotel pier, Newport, every morning, 
and plies the entire length of the lake, 
touching at the Mountain House for the 
convenience of travellers wishing to ascend 
Owl's Head or Bear Mountain. Jay 
Peak, 13 miles west of Newport, should 
be visited, if time permits. It is 4,018 feet 
high, and commands a fine view of the 
entire range of the Green Mountains, 
including Mount Mansfield, Camel's 
Hump, and Killington Peak, Ascutney 
Mountain, near Windsor, White and Fran- 
conia Mountains, Kearsarge, Lake Cham- 
plain, and the Adirondacks. OwVs 
Head rises 3,000 feet above the lake, and 
commands, in clear weather, an extensive 
view. Tourists can either proceed to 
Montreal or Quebec from the foot of the 
lake, or return to Newport on the boat 
the same day at 6 p. m. At and near the 
Mountain House are the best fishing- 
grounds on the lake. Boats supplied 
on application at the hotel. 

In ascending the lake, Indian Poim, 
the Twin Sisters, and Province Island are 
passed within a few miles of Newport. 
East of Province Island and near the 
shore is Tea- Table Island, a charming 
rural picnic spot, and on the western 
shore the boundary-line between Ver- 
mont and Canada strikes the lake. 
Pilch's Bay and Wlietstone Island, Magoon 
Point, Round and Minnow Islands are in 
the vicinity of the Mountain House, and 
afford pleasant picnic and excursion points 
•for visitors sojourning there. Skinner's 
Jsland and Cave, said to have been the 
haunt of Uriah Skinner, " the bold smug- 
gler of Magog, " during the War of 1812, 
are also near by. Balance Rock, on the 
southern shore of Long Island, is fre- 
quently visited. The eastern shore of 
the lake, in this vicinity, is much im- 
IIT 



Georgeville.] 



VERMONT. 



[Magog. 



proved and adoi'ned with some handsome 
summer residences, among which are 
those belonging to Judge Day, William 
Molson, and Hugh Allen, of Montreal. 
Mount Elephantis (Sugar Loaf) is seen to 
advantage from Allen's Landing. 

Concert Pond, west of Mount Ele- 
phantis, abounds in brook-trout, and at- 
tracts numerous visitors. 

GeorgeviUs, 20 miles from Newport 
and 12 from Magog, has a hotel and sev- 
eral stores. Knowllon's, on the opposite 
118 



(west) side of the lake, is the landing for 
passengers to Stanstead and Montreal. 
The route thither is by stage to Water- 
loo 20 miles, and thence by rail 42 
miles to St. John's and 63 to Montreal. 
A better route, though a longer stage 
ride, for those who do not care to follow 
the beaten track of travel and visit Mon- 
treal first, is to proceed by the steamer 
on to Magog (Outlet Village), and thence 
by stage to Sherbrooke, en route to Rich- 
mond and Quebec. (See Magog.) 



JMaine.] 



MAINE. 



[Maine. 



MAIISTE 



Maine occupies the extreme eastern 
portion of New England, and is the bor- 
der State of the Union in that direction, 
with the British province of New Bruns- 
wick on the north and northeast, and the 
province of Lower Canada on the north- 
west. It has three distinct topographical 
aspects — in the comparatively level and 
somewhat sandy and marshy character 
of the southern portion, lying Jjack 20 
miles from the Atlantic coast ; in the 
pleasant hill and valley features of the in- 
terior ; and in the rugged, mountainous, 
and wilderness regions of the north. It 
is the largest of the New England States, 
being 230 miles long and about 160 broad, 
embracing an area of upward of twenty 
millions of acres. 

The history of the State is interesting, 
dating as far back as 1604, when a par- 
tial settlement was effected on the pres- 
ent site of Phippsburg, but which was 
afterward abandoned. In 1712 the 
State passed into the hands of the Eng- 
lish. It long remained under the juris- 
diction of Massachusetts, but finally was 
admitted into the American Union in 
1820. It is divided into 16 counties, 
and contained in 1860 a population of 
626,952. Its principal towns are Port- 
land, Bangor, Belfast, Biddeford, Bath, 
and Lewiston. Augusta is the capital. 

A great portion of the State is yet 
covered by dense forests, the utilization 
of which is the chief occupation and sup- 
port of its inhabitants. The most fertile 
lands he in the central southern regions, 
between the Penobscot River on the east 
and the Kennebec on the west, and in 
the valley borders of other waters. The 
leading objects of interest to tourists are 
the mountain ranges, which are bold and 
imposing — one summit, that of Katahdin, 
having an elevation of 5,385 feet above 



the level of the sea. The lakes are nu- 
merous, sometimes of great extent, and 
often very beautiful. They are to be 
found throughout the State, and more 
especially among the mountains in the 
north. Indeed, it is estimated, that one- 
tenth part of the whole area of Maine is 
covered by water. The rivers are nu- 
merous and large, and present every- 
where scenes of great and varied beauty. 
The Atlantic coast, which occupies the 
whole southern line of the State, is the 
finest in the Union, in its remarkably 
bold, rocky character, and in its beauti- 
ful harbors, bays, islands, and beaches. 
The sea-islands of Maine are over 400 in 
number ; many of them are very large, 
and covered by fertile and inhabited 
lands. The climate, though marked by 
extremes, both of heat and cold, is yet 
everywhere most healthful ; its rigor 
being materially modified by the proxim- 
ity of the ocean. 

ILiaBies. — The most interesting route 
for the tourist in Maine to take is per- 
haps that which leads through the hills, 
lakes, and forests of the north ; but 
we warn him, beforehand, that it will not 
be one of ease. Rugged roads and scant 
physical comforts will not be his most 
severe trial ; for, in many places, he will 
not find road or inn at all, but must 
trudge along painfully on foot, or by rude 
skiff over the lakes, and trust to his rifle 
and his rod to suj)ply his larder. In these 
wildest regions the exploration may be 
made with great satisfaction by a party 
well provided with all needed tent equi- 
page, and with all the paraphernalia of the 
chase ; for deer, and the moose, and the 
wild fowl are abundant in the woods, and 
the finest fish may be freely taken in the 
waters. Still he may traverse most ot 
119 



Portland.] 



MAINE. 



[Portland. 



the mountain lands and lakes by the 
roads and paths of the lumbermen, who 
have iavaded all the region ; and he may 
bivouac, as comfortably as should con- 
tent an orthodox forester, in the humble 
shanties erected by the hardy backwoods- 
maa. The mountains of Maine are 
broken and distinct peaks. A range, 
which seems to be an irregular continua- 
tion of the White Hills of New Hamp- 
shire, extends along the western side of 
the State for many miles ; and, verging 
toward the northeast, terminates in 
Mars Hill. This chain divides the waters 
which flow north into St. John's River 
from those which pass southward to the 
Atlantic. Many beautiful lakes lie with- 
in this territory. The wilderness of north- 
ern New York (see Adirondacks) has 
many features in common with the north- 
ern mountain and lake region of Maine. 
The internal improvements of the State 
are few, but important. Portland is the 
chief commercial city and railway centre 
of the State, and thence diverge the lead- 
ing routes to every section within its lim- 
its and in the neighboring provinces of 
Canada. 

l*ortlaii«l. — Hotels, the Prehle 
House, the United Slaies, the American, 
the Mm. 

RoTTTES. — From Boston, 107 miles, by 
the Eastern Railway, via Lynn, Salem, 
Newburyport, Portsmouth, New Haven, 
etc. ; or by the Boston and Maine route, 
111 miles, via Reading, Lawrence, An- 
dover, Haverhill, Exeter, Dover, etc. 
(see Boston) ; or by steamer daily. From 
Montreal, 293 miles, by the Grand Trunk 
Railway. 

Portland, the commercial metropolis of 
Maine, is handsomely situated on a pen- 
insula, occupying the ridge and side of a 
high point of land, in the southwest ex- 
tremity of Casco Bay, and, on approach- 
ing it from the ocean, is seen to great ad- 
vantage. The harbor is one of the best 
on the Atlantic coast, the anchorage 
being protected on every side by land, 
whilst the water is deep, and communi- 
cation with the ocean direct and con- 
venient. It is defended by Forts Preble, 
l^cammell, and Gorges, and dotted over 
with lovely islands. These islands afford 
most delightful excursions, and are 
among the greatest attractions of the 
120 



vicinity. On the highest point of the 
peninsula is an observatory, '70 feet in 
height, commanding a fine view of the 
city, harbor, and islands in the bay. The 
misty forms of the White Mountains, 60 
miles distant, are discernible in clear 
weather. The original name of Portland 
was Muchigonne. It was first settled by 
the whites as an English colony in 1632, 
just two centuries before the charier of 
the present city was granted. On the 
night of the 4th of July, 1866, a fire 
occurred which swept away nearly one- 
half of the entire business portion of the 
city. 

Portland is elegantly built, and the 
streets beautifully shaded and embel- 
lished with trees, and so profusely, that 
there are said to be no less than 3,000 
of these rural delights. Congress Street, 
previous to the fire the main highway, 
follows the ridge of the peninsula through 
its entire extent. Among the public 
buildings of Portland, the City Hall 
(rebuilding), the Court House, and some 
of the churches, are worthy of particular 
attention. The Society of Natural His- 
tory, organized 1843, possesses a fine 
cabinet, containing specimens of the or- 
nithology of the State, more than 4,000 
species of shells, and a rich collection of 
mineralogical and geological specimens, 
and of fishes and reptiles. The Athe- 
nwum, incorporated in 1826, has a library 
of 12,000 volumes ; and the Mercantile 
Library possesses, also, many valuable 
books. The Marine Hospital, erected in 
1855, at a cost of .$80,000, is an impos- 
ing edifice. Brown & Co.'s extensive 
sugar refinery, wholly destroyed by tl^e 
late fire, has been rebuilt, and will shortly 
be in operation. The city is being rebuilt 
as rapidly as possible, and it is hoped that 
by 1868 only faint traces of the great 
fire will remain. Population, 30,000. 
The vicinity has several fine drives. (See 
Cape Elizabeth.) 

The leading routes of travel from Port- 
land are the Grand Trimh (Canada), 
Portland, Saco, and Portsmovth ; Port- 
land and Kennebec ; Portland and Bangor 
(Maine Central), and the York and Cum- 
berland. The last-named is a short line, 
extending from Portland south, via Mor- 
rill's, Saccarappa, Buxton Centre, to Saco 
Piiver, a distance of 18 miles. 



'A 



r 



Route I.] 



MAINE. 



[BlUDEFOKD. 



MOUTE I. 



PORTLAND TO GORHAM AND WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

( Via Grand Trunk (Canada) Railway^ 

This important thoroughfare connects 
the navigable waters of Portland harbor 
with the commercial capital of Canada. 
Its route passes through a fertile and 
productive country, generally under fine 
cultivation, the streams in its vicinity 
abounding in water privileges of the 
first importance. From Portland, pass- 
ing onward, five miles, through Fal- 
mouth, on thePresumpscot Kiver, to Dan- 
ville Junction, 27 miles {Androscoggin 
Railway), to the valley of Royal's River 
and the valley of the Little Androscog- 
gin, it strikes and crosses the latter 
river at Mechanic Falls, 36 miles from 
Portland, at which place the Buckfield 
Branch Railroad, connects with it. Pur- 
suing its course upward, it passes in the 
vicinity of the " Mills " on its way to 
Paris Cape, in the neighborhood of South 
Paris, drawing in upon it the travel 
and business of that rich and populous 
region. Still following up the valley of 
the Little Androscoggin, passing on the 
way two important falls, it reaches Bry- 
ant's Pond (62 miles), the source of that 
river. This point is 15 miles from Rum- 
ford Falls, on the Great Androscoggin, 
one of the most valuable and available 
water-powers in the State. Passing 
hence into the valley of Alder stream, 
the route strikes the Great Androscoggin, 
near Bethel, 70 miles from Portland. 
Crossing that stream, it follows up its 
picturesque and romantic valley, bor- 
dered by the highest mountains in New 
England, till, in its course of about 20 
miles from Bethel, it reaches Gorham, 
New Hampshire, the point of departure 
for Mount Washington, eight miles dis- 
tant. From this point this famous shrine 
may be approached and ascended with 
more ease, in a shorter distance, and less 
time, than from any other accessible 
quarter in the vicinity of the White Hills. 
(See White Mountain Routes.) Gor- 
harin is seven miles distant from Berlin 
Falls, the greatest waterfall in New Eng- 
land, where the waters of the Great An- 
droscoggin, larger in volume than the 



waters of the Connecticut, descend nearly 
200 feet in a distance of about two miles. 
From the valley of the Androscoggin the 
road passes into the v-aUey of the Con- 
necticut, reaching the banks of that river 
at ^R^orth Stratford, New Hampshire. 
Following up this rich and highly pro- 
ductive valley 32 miles, the road reaches 
the parallel of 45° north latitude, the 
boundary-line between the United States 
and Canada. The route thence lies through 
what are known as the Eastern Townships 
of Canada, via Richmond to Quebec, and 
up the St. Lawrence, via Montreal, to 
Toronto on Lake Ontario, where it con- 
nects with other routes for Lake Superior 
and all parts of the great West. (See 
Geand Trunk Railway.) 



MOUTE II, 

PORTLAND TO SAOO, AND PORTS- 
MOUTH, N. H. 

{Via Portland, Saco, and Portsmouth 
Railroad.) 

Stations. — Portland ; Cape Elizabeth, 
2 miles ; Scarborough, 6 ; West Scar- 
borough, 9 ; Saco, 13 ; Biddeford, 15 ; 
Kennebunk Port, 19; Kennebunk, 23; 
Wells, 28 ; North Berwick, 34 ; South 
Berwick Junction, 38 ; Junction Great 
Falls Branch, 41 ; Elliott, 45 ; Kittery, 
50 ; Portsmouth, 52 ; Boston, 108. 

Cape Elizabeth {i^o miles) is a delight- 
ful summer resort, with excellent bathing 
and fishing privileges. Bang's, and other 
islands in the bay, are easily reached. 
The Collage, and several private board- 
ing-houses are open during the season — 
June to September. 

Saco (13 miles) is a flourishing man- 
ufacturing village on the east bank of the 
Saco River, six miles from its mouth. A 
fall of 42 feet in the river, at this point, 
furnishes one of the best water-powers in 
the State. Eleven cotton-mills, contain- 
ing 55,000 spindles, are in operation here. 
Laurel Hill Cemetery, on the Mount Au- 
burn plan, is worth visiting. Two good 
hotels. 

Biddeford (15 miles), on the opposite or 
south side of the Saco River, is a growing 
place. The population of both villages 
is upward of 15,000. 

121 



Brunswick.] 



MAINE. 



[AUUUSTA. 



Kennchunk (23 miles) is noted for its 
ship-building, carried on mainly at the 
" Port," at the mouth of the Kenuebunk 
River. 

South Berwick (38 miles) is on Sal- 
mon Falls River, at the junction of the 
Boston and Maine Railway^ and three 
miles from the junction of the main line 
with the Great Falls and Gonivay Jiail- 
u<ai/. Passengers to Salmon Falls, Great 
Falls (N. H.), and Utiion Village (26 
miles) leave the P. S. and F. Railway 
here. 

Mittery (50 miles) is on the Piscat- 
aqua River, opposite Portsmouth, with 
which it is connected by bridge. South- 
ward tlie route lies through the State of 
New Hampshire. 



MOUTE III. 

PORTLAND TO GARDINER, AUGUSTA, 
WATERVILLE, AND SKOWHEGAN. 

( Via Portland and, Kennel)ec Bailway.) 

Stations. — Portland ; Westbrook, 5 
miles; Cumberland, 12; Yarmouth, 16 
Freeport, 22 ; Oak Hill, 26 ; Brunswick, 
30; Topsham, 31; Bowdoinham, 38 
Harward's Road, 41 ; Richmond, 46 
Dresden, 49; South Gardiner, 51; Gar- 
diner, 56 ; Hallowell, 61 ; Augusta, 63 
Seven Mile Brook, 70 ; Yassalboro', Yo 
Winslow, 80 ; Waterville, 81 ; Kendall's 
Mills, 83 ; Somerset Mills, 87 ; Pishon 
Terry, 92; Bloomfield, 99^; Skowliegan, 
100. 

ISrims^viclc (30 miles) is a flour- 
ishing town on the Androscoggin, across 
which a bridge connects it with Topsham. 
A fall of 50 feet in the river supplies a 
fine water-power, which is but little im- 
proved. Bowdoin Gollege, founded 1802, 
occupies a fine locale at the south end of 
the village, six miles from Topsham Sta- 
tion. The Medical School has a fine 
library, anatomical cabinet, etc. The 
Androscoggin Railway connects it with 
Milton and Farmington, 63 miles. 

SJ a ft li. — Hotel, the Sctgadahock 
House. 

Bath is a flourishing city of over 9,000 
people, on the Kennebec, 12 miles from 
the sea, 30 miles south of Augusta, and 
122 



36 northeast of Portland. It is the ter- 
minus of a bi'anch road from Brunswick, 
on the Porlland and Kennebec Railway. 
It is to be united at Lewiston with the 
Forthmd and Bangor Railway. 

<]}ni*diuei* (56 miles) is situated on 
both sides of the Cobbosseecontee River, 
which here enters the Kennebec River. 
Its inhabitants (5,000) are principally en- 
gaged in manufactures. Fittston, across 
the Kennebec, is connected with Gardiner 
by a bridge 900 feet long. 

Matlo'well (61 miles) is a pretty j 
village, two miles south of Augusta, on] 
the Kennebec River, famous for its granite 
quarries. Population, 3,000. 

A 11 g- n s t^SL — (63 miles). — HotelsI 
the Stanley House, Augusta Howie. 

Augusta is at the head of sloop navi^ 
gation on the Kennebec, 43 miles fron 
its mouth. It is 69 miles southwest of 
Bangor. Steamboats run hence to PortTl 
land and Boston, calling at the river" 
landings. The city stands chiefly upon 
the right bank of the river, which 
crossed here by a bridge 520 feet longJ 
The private residences, and some of thel 
hotels, are upon a terrace, a short dis- 
tance west of the river, while the business 
parts of the town lie along shore. Much 
of it has been swept away by fire (Sep- 
tember 17, 1865). The State House is an 
elegant structure of white granite. Its site, 
in the southern part of the city, is lofty 
and very picturesque ; in front is a large 
and well-shaded park. The United States 
Arsenal, surrounded by extensive and 
elegant grounds, is upon the east side of 
the river. Here, too, is the Hospital for 
the Insane, built upon a commanding and 
most beautiful eminence. Population, 
8,500. 

'%¥'Ea,terTlOe (81 miles) is on the 
Kennebec, at the Ticonic Falls. These 
falls are 18 feet in height, and afford a 
fine water-power. It is the seat of Water- 
ville College, 'a prosperous establishment, 
conducted by the Baptists. The Maine 
Gerdral [Portland and Bangor) Railway 
intersects the Portland and Kennebec 
road at this point. Distance by the former 
line to Bangor, 55 miles; to Portland, 83 
miles. 

Skowliegan (100 miles) is on the Ken- 
nebec River, opposite Bloomfield, with 
which it is connected bv bridge. 



Lkwiston.] 



MAINE. 



[Eastport. 



MOTITE IV. 

POItTLAN^D TO WATERVILLE AND 
BANGOR. 

( Via Maine Central {P. & S.) Railway.) 

Stations. — Portland ; Danville Junc- 
tion, 28 miles (Grand Trunk Railway ) ; 
Auburn, -34 ; Lewiston, 35 ; Greene, 42 ; 
Leeds, 45 (Androscoggin Railway) ; 
Monmouth, 48 ; Winthrop, 54 ; Read- 
field, 60 ; Belgrade, 68 ; North Bel- 
grade, 72 ; West Waterville, '77 ; Water- 
ville (Portland and Kennebec Railway), 
83; Kendall's Mills, 86; Clinton, 92; 
Burnham, 97 ; Pittsfield, 104 ; Detroit, 
Newport, 111 ; East Newport, 114 ; Etna, 
119; Carmel, 123; Hermon Pond, 128^ 
•Bangor, 138. 

BLie'wistoja (35 miles) is a flourish- 
ing manufacturing village, containmg 
about 7,000 inhabitants, situated upon 
the left bank of the Androscoggin River. 
The bridge here is 1,700 feet long. The 
waterfall here is one of exceeding beauty. 
The entire volume of the Androscoggin 
is precipitated 60 feet over a broken 
ledge, forming in its fall a splendid 
specimen of natural scenery. The river 
immediately below the fall subsides into 
almost a uniform tranquillity, and moves 
slowly and gracefully along its course, 
in strange though pleasing contrast with 
its wild and turbid appearance at and 
above the cataract. The " Central " road 
communicates with the Grand Trunk 
Railway at Danville, seven miles below 
Lewiston. 

Leeds Station (45 miles). Here the 
Androscoggin Railway crosses this line, 
connecting it with Leeds Centre, North 
Leeds, Livermore Falls, Wilton, and 
Farmington. Through distance, 63 miles. 

Fittsfield (104 miles), 21 miles north 
of Waterville, is pleasantly situated on 
tlie Sebasticook River, which, like most 
of the streams of this State, affords a fine 
water-power. Stages daily to St. Albans, 
Harmony, and Cambridge. 

Newport (111 miles) is the point of de- 
parture for Moosehead Lake and vicinity 
(see Moosehead Lake). 

HiiHS-oi* (138 miles). — Hotel, the 
Bangor House. 

Bangor, at the head of tidewater and 
of navigation on the Penobscot River, 60 



miles from its mouth, is one of the largest 
cities of Maine, having a population of 
more than 20,000. Steamboats connect 
it daily with Portland and Boston. The 
distance from Bangor to Portland, by 
railway, is 138 miles. Bangor is connect- 
ed with Old Town and Milford (13 miles) 
three times daily, and another road is 
contemplated to Lincoln, 60 miles, up the 
Penobscot Valley. The Bangor llieologi- 
cal Seminary, founded 1816, occupies a 
fine site in the higher portion of the city. 
The new Custom House is a fine edifice. 
The " specialty " of Bangor is lumber, of 
which it is, next to Chicago, the greatest 
depot on the continent. All the vast 
country above, drained by the Penobscot 
and its affluents, is covered with dense 
forests of pine, and hemlock, and spruce, 
and cedar, from which immense quanti- 
ties of lumber are continually cut and 
sent from the numerous saw-mills, down 
the river to market at Bangor. During 
the eight or nine months of the year 
through which the navigation of the 
river is open, some 2,000 vessels are em- 
ployed in the transportation of this 
freight. Not unfrequently 200,000,000 feet 
are received in a single year. The whole 
industry of Bangor is not, however, in the 
lumber line, as she is also engaged in 
ship-building, has a large coasting trade, 
and a considerable foreign commerce. 

ISelfaist am^ Castime are some 
30 miles below Bangor, where the Penob- 
scot enters its namesake bay. Belfast on 
the. west, and Castine on the east shore, 
are nine miles apart. They are both 
small ship-building and fishing towns. 

Eastport, upon the waters of Pas- 
samaquoddy Bay, at the extreme eastern 
point of the territory of the United States, 
is well desei'ving of a visit from the tourist 
in quest of the beautiful in nature ; for 
more charming scenes on land and on 
sea than are here, can rarely be found. 

The traveller may see Eastport and its 
vicinage and then go home, if he pleases ; 
for it is the idtima Tlmle — the veritable 
Land's-End — the jumping-off place — the 
latitude and longitude beyond which the 
stars and stripes give place to the red 
cross of England. 

Eastport is 234 miles N. E. of Portland, 
and is reached thence and from Boston 
by regular steamboat communication to 
123 



Mount Katahdin.] 



MAINE. 



[The Penobscot. 



and from ?t. John, N. B. Steamboats 
run also to Calais and places en route, 
30 miles above, at the head of navigation 
on the St. Croix River. The town is 
charminglj- built on Moose Island, which 
embraces 2,000 acres, and is connected 
to the mainland of Perry by a bridge ; 
and by ferries with Pembroke, Lubec, and 
the adjoining British islands. Ifhi-l Sul- 
livan is its shield and buckler against any 
possible foes from without. 

The Passamaquoddy Bay extends in- 
land some 15 miles, and is, perhaps, 10 
miles in breadth. Its shores are wonder- 
fully irregular and picturesque, and the 
many islands which stud its deep waters 
help much in the composition of pictures 
to be enjoyed and remembered. 

Calais, at the head of navigation on 
the St. Croix River, should be visited by 
the traveller in this region. The lumber 
trade is large, and ship-building is ex- 
tensively carried on. It is connected 
with St. Stephens, in New Brunswick, by 
four bridges. The Calais and Baring 
Railway connects the town with Milltown 
and Baring. From Baring the Lewey's 
Island Railroad extends l*? miles to 
Princeton. Population, 6,000. 



MOUNTAINS, LAKES, AND BIYERS. 

Mount I£atal&«liii, with its 
peaks 5,385 feet above the sea, is the 
loftiest summit in the State, and is the 
ultima Thule, at present, of general travel 
in this direction. The ordinary access is 
in stages from Bangor over the Aroos- 
took road, starting in tolerable coaches 
on a tolerable road, and changing always 
in both from bad to worse. A pleasant 
route for the advmturer is down the West 
Branch of the Penobscot, in a canoe, 
from Moosehead Lake. " Birches," as 
the boats are called, and guides may be 
procured at the foot of Moosehead, or at 
the Kineo House, near the centre of the 
lake. By this approach Katahdin is seen 
iu much finer outlines than from the east- 
ward. 

giigai'oSjoaf MoimtsaiBi, upon 
the Seboois River, northeast of Mount 
Katahdin, is nearly 2,000 feet high, and 
from its summit a magnificent view is 
commanded, which embraces some fiftv 
124 



mountain peaks and nearly a score of 
picturesque lakes. Bigelow, Saddleback, 
Squaw, Bald, Gilead, the Speckled Moun- 
tain, the Blue Mountain, and othei 
heights, . with intervening waterfalls and 
brooks, are in the neighborhood. 

j^looselieadL JLake, the largest 
in Maine, is among the northern hills. It 
is 35 miles long, and, at one point, is 10 
miles in breadth, though near the centre 
there is a pass not over a mile across. Its 
waters are deep, and furnish ample occu- 
pation to the angler, in their stores of 
trout and other fish. This lake may be 
traversed in the steamboats employed in 
towing lumber to the Kennebec. A sum- 
mer hotel occupies a very picturesque 
site upon the shore at the foot of the 
lake. The Kineo House, midway, is the- 
usual stopping-place. There are numerous 
islands on the Moosehead Lake, some of 
which are of great interest. On the west 
side. Mount Kineo overhangs the water, 
at an elevation of 600 feet. Its summit 
reveals a picture of forest beauty well 
worthy the climbing to see. The roads 
thither, lying through forest land, are 
necessarily somewhat rough and lonely. 
This lake is the source of the great Ken- 
nebec River, by whose channels its waters 
reach the sea. The readiest approach 
from Boston or Portland is via Newport, 
on the Portland and Bangor Railway. 
(See Newport.) 

I^alce lJml>a,g-og: lies partly in 
Maine and partly in New Hampshire. Its 
length is about 12 miles, and its breadth 
varies from one to five miles. The outlet 
of Umbagog and the Margallaway River 
form the Andi'oscoggin. 

AjatlFOScog'S'lm sand. Moose- 
todcsiogiamtic SjaLces are in the 
vicinity of Umbagog. 

Selsag'O 5*oiatl, a beautiful lake 
12 miles long, and from seven to eight 
miles broad, is about 20 miles from Port- 
land, on a route thence to Conway and 
the White Moimtains. It is connected 
with Portland by the Cumberland and Ox- 
ford canal. 

T'lae E"eaaolJSC4>t, the largest and 
most beautiful of the rivers of Maine, may 
be reached daily from Boston and Port- 
land, by steamer, as far up as Bangor, and 
also by railway from Portland to Bangor. 
It is formed by two branches, the east and 



1 



The Keknebkc] 



MAINE. 



[Mount Desert Island. 



I the west, which unite near the centre of 

the State, and flow in a general soulh- 

I west course to Bangor, 60 miles from the 

I sea, and at the head of navigation. Large 

i vessels can ascend to Bangor, and small 

steamboats navigate the river yet above. 

, At Banger the tide rises to the great 

height of 1*7 feet, an elevation which is 

' supposed to be produced by the wedge- 

li shaped form of the bay, and by the cur- 

i] rent from the Gulf Stream. The length 

!| of the Penobscot, from the junction of the 

!| east and the west branches is 135 nliles, 

s or measuring from the source of the west 

I branch, it is 300 miles ; though, as far as 

II the tourist is concerned, it is only 60 
J miles — being that portion between Bangor 
i and the ocean. This part, then, the Penob- 

scot proper, ranks, in its pictorial at- 
1 tractions, among the finest river scenery 
of the United States. In all its course 
there are continual points of great beauty, 
and very often the shore rises in striking 
and even grand lines and proportions. 

TIae MenBielsec ISivei- is in 
the western part of the State, extending 
from Moosehead Lake, 150 miles, to the 
sea. It makes a descent in its passage of 
a thousand feet, thus affording a great 
and valuable water-power. The scenery 
of the Kennebec, though pleasant, is far 
less striking than that of the Penobscot. 
Its shores are thickly lined with towns 



and villages, among which are Augusta, 
the capital, Bath, Hallowell, and Water- 
ville. 

Tlie Aiidroscog'g-in. ISiver 
is a fine stream, flowing from Lake TJm- 
bagog, partly in ISTew Hampshire, but 
chiefly through the southwestern corner 
of Maine, into the Kennebec, 20 miles 
from the ocean. 

Tlae §ac© lliveB.* rises in the 
White Mountains, passes through the 
famous Notch, and flows into the Atlantic. 

Mommt l>e@ci-t lsla.Ea«l. — A 
summer trip to Mount Desert Island has 
of late years been a pleasant treat to 
American landscape painters, and a visit 
thither might be equally grateful to the 
general tourist. The vigorous and varied 
rock-bound coast of New England can be 
nowhere seen to greater advantage. A 
mountain, 2,000 feet high, presents a 
striking appearance; Mount Desert Isl- 
and is an out-of-the-way nook of beauty 
■in Frenchman's Bay, east of the mouth of 
the Penobscot River. It is 40 miles from 
Bangor, and may be reached from Boston 
by boat, via Rockville, and thence by 
another steamer, on to Bucksport (on the 
Penobscot), and thence by stagey via 
Ellsworth, or from Castine, on the Penob- 
scot Bay, hard by. If the visitor here 
cannot sketch the bold, rocky cliffs, he 
can beguile the fish to his heart's content. 
125 



Ne-w Jersey.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[New Jersey. 



NEW JERSEY, 



Settlements were made in this State 
at Bergen, by the Dutch, soon after their 
arrival in New York. In 1627 a Swedisli 
colony was founded near the shores of 
the Delaware, in the southwestern part of 
the State. A droll account of the quar- 
rels of these Swedish folk with the Dutch- 
men of New Amsterdam may be found 
in "Diedrich Knickerbocker's" solemn 
" History " of the Amsterdam colonists. 
New Jersey is one of the original thirteen 
States. She did her part nobly in the 
long War of Independence, and her his- 
torical record is of the most eventful 
.and interesting character — the famous 
battles of Trenton, of Princeton, and of 
Monmouth, at all of which Washington 
was present and victorious, occurred with- 
in her limits. Morristown was the winter 
camp of the American arniy in 1776 and 
1777. 

New Jersey is bounded on the north 
by New York, on the east by the Atlan- 
tic Ocean and Hudson River, south by 
Delaware Bay, and west by Delaware 
River. It is 163 miles long, and from 40 
to 70 miles wide, and includes an area of 
8,235 square miles. Though small in 
extent, New Jersey yet presents many 
natural attractions to the traveller. Her 
sea-coast abounds in favorite bathing and 
sporting resorts ; much visited by the citi- 
zens of New York, Philadelphia, and Bal- 
timore. Among these summer haunts are 
Cape May, Long Branch, Sandy Hook, 
Atlantic City, Deal, Squam Beach, and 
Tuckerton. In the southern and central 
portions of this State the country is flat 
and sandy ; in the north are some ranges 
of picturesque hills, interspersed with 
charming lakes and ponds. Some of the 
Alleghany ridges traverse New Jersey, 
forming the spurs known as Schooley's 
Mountain, Trowbridge, the Ramapo, and 
126 



Second Mountains. In the northwest- 
ern part of the State are the Blue Moun- 
tains. The Neversink Hills, rising nearly 
400 feet on the Atlantic side, are usually 
the first and last land seen by ocean voy- 
agers as they approach and leave New 
York. The celebrated Palisade Rocks of 
the Hudson River are in this State. 



NEW YORK TO PHILADELPHIA. 

There are three routes between the 
cities of New York and Philadelphia, 
known respectively as the Nevj Jersey^ 
the Camden andAmboy, and the Raritan 
and Delaware Bay Railways. The first is 
the most expeditious ; the two latter, 
being partly by water, are most agreeable 
during the summer months. 



MOUTE I. 

( Yia the IsTew Jersey Rail/way.') 

This route passes over the New Jersey, 
and the Philadelphia and Trenton Rail- 
roads. Trains leave New York (by ferry 
across the Hudson from the foot of 
Cortland Street to Jersey City) several 
times each day. Distance, 88 miles. Time 
(express train), three to four hours. 

Stations. — Jersey City, 1 mile; New- 
wark, 9; Elizabeth, 15; Rahway, 19; 
Uniontown, 23 ; Metuchin, 27 ; New 
Brunswick, 82 ; Dean's Pond, 39 ; Kings- 
ton, 45 ; Princeton, 48 ; Trenton, 58 ; 
Bristol, 69 ; Cornwells, 74 ; Tacony, 80 ; 
Kensington, 86 ; Philadelphia, 88. 

This route, lying as it does between 
the two greatest cities on the continent, 
is an immense thoroughfare, over which 
floods of travel pour unceasingly by day 
and by night. The region is populous 



I 



Jersey City.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[New Brunswick. 



and opulent, and necessarily covered with 
towns, villages, and villas ; for 20 or 25 
miles from each terminus, over which the 
two cities spread their suburbs, the 
crowded trains are passing and repassing 
continually. 

Jersey City. — Hotel, American, 
9 and 11 Montgomery Street. Jersey 
City is on the Hudson, opposite the city 
of New York, with which it is connected 
by numerous ferries. The present pop- 
ulation is about 35,000. Jersey City is 
the New York terminus of the Philadel- 
phia and New York and Erie Railroad 
routes, and of the Morris Canal. It is 
also the berth of the Cunard and Bremen 
lines of Atlantic steamers. (For Ho- 
boken, Weehawken, and other suburban 
villages on the Hudson, see Steamboat 
Route from New York to Albany). 

Leaving Jersey City, the track over 
which we pass for two miles is that used 
also by the great Erie Railway, which is 
traversed by the thousands daily travel- 
ling between the seaboard and the great 
West and South. 

Ne^vsajrli:. — Hotel, JSfewarJc. — New- 
ark, nine miles from New York and 18 
from Philadelphia, was settled in 1666. It 
is built on an elevated plain, upon the 
right bank of the Passaic River, lour miles 
from its entrance into Newark Bay, and is 
regularly laid out in wide streets, cross- 
ing at right angles. Many portions of 
the city are very elegant, and in its most 
recherche quarter are two charming parks, 
filled with noble elms. Broad Street, its 
main thoroughfare, is a splendid avenue. 
Among its principal public edifices are 
the Court HoiKe, the Post-Office, the 
Custom House, City Hall, and several of 
the banks. 

Of the literary institutions, the most 
noteworthy are the Library Association, 
the State Historical Society, and the New- 
ark Academy. From the grounds at- 
tached to the Academy, an extended view 
of the Passaic valley is had. 

The city contains over '70 churches, 
some of which are very interesting struc- 
tures, as the Catholic, on Washington 
Street ; the Preahyierian, near the lower 
park, and in High Street ; the Methodist, 
on Market and Broad Streets ; Grace 
(Episcopal), and the Baptist, on Academy 
Street. The building occupied by the 



Mutual Benefit Life Insurance Company 
is one of the finest in the State. 

The city is divided into 12 wards, and 
possesses some 40 public schools, which 
are attended by more than 9,000 pupils. 
It is the see of a Roman Catholic bishop. 

Newark is distinguished for its manu- 
factures of jewelry, carriages, and leather. 
It has upward of 550 manufactories. 
Steamboats as well as railways connect 
it with New York. It is the eastern 
terminus of the Morris and Essex Rail- 
road, and the Morris Canal passes through 
it on its way to Jersey City. The New- 
ark and Bloomfield Railway connects 
v/ith the pleasant suburban towns of 
Roseville, Bloomfield, and Mont Clair. 
The vicinity has many pleasant drives 
and walks, among which is Leviellyn 
Park, a once famous place of resort. 

Elisatoetli. — Hotel, American. 
Elizabeth {15' miles) is situated upon 
Elizabethtown Creek, two miles from its 
entrance into Staten Island Sound. It 
was once the capital and chief town of 
the State. Here the Central Railway 
intersects the Neio Jersey Railway to 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the South. 
It was first settled in 1665. It was the 
home of General Scott after his retire- 
ment from active life. Population, 
14,000. 

Mala-w^say, — Hotel, De Graio^s. 
Rahway (19 miles) lies on both sides of 
the Rahway River. It is noted for its 
manufacture of carriages, stoves, hats, 
earthenware, etc. Some 3,000 vehicles 
are annually sent hence to the Southern 
market. It was settled in 1*720. Pop- 
ulation, 8,000. 

Ne"w Briiiiswiclc. — Williams'' s 
Hotel. New Brunswick (32 miles), found- 
ed 1*770, is pleasantly situated at the 
head of steamboat navigation on the 
Raritan River. This is the seat of Rut- 
ger^s College and School, and also of a 
Theological Seminary of the Dutch Re- 
formed Church, known as Hertzog Theo- 
logical Hall. The streets on the river are 
narrow and crooked, and the ground low ; 
but those on the upper bank are wide, and 
many of the dwellings are very neat and 
even elegant, being surrounded by fine 
gardens. From the site of Rutger's Col- 
lege on the hill there is a wide prospect, 
terminated by mountains on the north 
127 



Princeton.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[Trenton. ''^_ 



and by Earitan Bay on the east. The 
Delaware and Raritan Canal extends 
from New Brunswick to Bordentown, on 
the Delaware River, 42 miles. Tiiis 
canal is 75 feet wide and seven feet deep, 
and is navigable by sloops and steam- 
boats of 150 tons. This fine work cost 
$2,500,000. The railway here crosses 
the Raritan River. Population, 14,000. 
Passengers for Dean's Pond, Kingston, 
and Rocky Hill, leave the main line here. 
I^riaicetoii, built on an elevated 
ridge two and a half miles north of 
Princeton Junction, 48 miles from New 
York, is a pleasant little town of literary 
and historical interest. It is the seat of 
Princeton College, one of the oldest and 
most famous educational establishments 
in tlie country. It was founded by the Pres- 
byterians at Elizabethtown, 1*756, and re- 
moved to Princeton in 1*757. The col- 
lege building, which is known as Nassau 
Hall, is a spacious edifice, 176 feet by 50 
feet, and four stories high. The Hall 
stands in the centre of spacious grounds 
fronting on Main Street. Peale's picture 
of Washmgton is an object of consid- 
erable interest. Here also is the Theo- 
logical Seminary of the Presbyterian 
Church, founded in_ 1812. About one 
and a quarter miles south of Princeton is 
the battle-ground where was fought the 
memorable conflict of January 3, 1777, 
between the American forces under Gen- 
eral Washington, and those of the Brit- 
ish under Lieutenant-Colonel Mawhood, in 
which the latter were vanquished. The 
house in which General Mercer died, near 
the Trenton turnpike, is still pointed out. 

Treaitoia. — Hotels, Trenton House, 
American House. 

Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, is 
on the left bank of the Delaware, 30 
miles from Philadelphia and 58 from 
New York. The city is regularly laid out, 
and has many fine stores and handsome 
dwellmgs. It is divided into North and 
South Trenton by the Assumpsiuk Creek. 
The State House, which is 100 feet long 
and 60 wide, is built of stone, and stuc- 
coed so as to resemble granite. Its situa- 
tion on the Delaware is very beautiiul, 
commanding a fine view of the river and 
vicinity. Here is the State Lunatic 
Asylum, founded in 1848, and also the 
128 



State Penitentiary. Wliite Hall, used for 
barracks by the Hessians in 1776, is still 
to be seen on the south side of Front 
Street. Trenton has three daily and two 
other newspapers, 20 churches, and a 
State Library. The city is lighted with 
gas. Thirty thousand dollars have been 
subscribed for a race-course, similar to 
that at Paterson, N. J. The Delaware 
is here crossed by a handsome covered 
bridge, 1,100 feet long, resting on five 
arches, supported on stone piers, which 
is considered a fine specimen of its 
kind. It has two carriage-wa3'S, one of 
which is used by the railroad. The 
Delaware and Raritan Canal, forming 
an, inland navigation from New Bruns- 
wick, passes through Trenton to the 
Delavi'are at Bordentown. It is supplied 
by a navigable feeder, taken from the 
Delaware, 23 miles north of Trenton. It 
was completed in 1834, at a cost of 
82,500,000. This canal passes through 
the city, and connects it with New York 
and Philadelphia. At this point the New 
Jersey Railroad, which we have thus far 
travelled, 57 miles from New York, ends, 
and the Philadelphia and Trenton, upon 
which we make the rest of our journey, 
begins. A branch road, six miles long, 
connects with the Camden and Amboy 
Railroad at Bordentown. The Belvidere, 
Delaware, and Flemington Railroad runs 
hence, 63 miles, to Belvidere, in the in- 
terior, along the Delaware River. The 
suburban villages of Bloomshury, Lam- 
beth, and 3Iill Hill are now included in 
the corporate limits of Trenton. Trenton 
was first settled by Phineas Pemberton 
and others about 1680, and was riamed 
in 1720 after Colonel Wilham Trent, 
Speaker of the House of Assembly. The 
Battle of Trenton was fought December 
26, 1776. On Christmas night, in 1776, 
and during the most gloomy period of 
the Revolutionary War, General Wash- 
ington crossed the Delaware with 2,500 
men, and early on the morning of the 
26th commenced an attack upon Trenton, 
then in possession of the British. So 
sudden and imespected was the assault, 
that of the 1,500 German troops en- 
camped there, 906 were made prisoners. 
This successful enterprise revived the 
spirit of the nation, as it was the first 
victory gained over the German soldiers. 



|i South Ambot.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[Burlington. 



General Mercer, a brave American officer, 
was mortally wounded in the attack. 

It was here, upon Trenton Bridge, that 
occurred the memorable and beautiful re- 
ception of Washington, while on his way 
from New York to Mount Vernon, 12 
jyears after the glorious victory. Tren- 

lOn was selected as the State capital in 
ilY90, and incorporated in 1792. Its 

resent population is nearly 20,000. 

ere the traveller can take the Branch 

.oad, sis miles to Bordentown, and 
ihence by Camden and Amboy line, or 

ontinue, as we now do, by Philadelphia 
md Trenton route. (See Philadelphia 

^{OUTES.) 

ISristol, Pennsylvania (69 miles), 
ibunded in 169'7, is a beautiful village on 
;he west bank of the Delaware, nearly op- 
josite Burlington. The Delaware division 
)f the Pennsylvania Canal, which commu- 
licates with the Lehigh at Easton, termi- 
pates here in a spacious basin on the Del- 

fware. It has a valuable mineral spring. 
•aily communication with Philadelphia 
y boat. Population, 3,500. 
Tacooiy and Kensington are within the 
orporate limits of Philadelphia. 



MOUTE II. 

Ni:W YOSK TO PIIILADELPniA. 

^Camden and Amioy {or steamboat) Jioute.) 

] From pier No. 1, N. E., New York, 
;|aily (Sundays excepted) for South Am- 
)oy, 30 miles, and thence by rail. 

Stations. — New York, South Amboy, 
iO miles ; South Eiver, 38 ; Spotswood, 
:0 ; Jamcsburg, 44 ; Prospect Plains, 46 ; 
jpranberry Station, 48 ; Eightstown, 51 ; 
Vindsor, 54 ; Newtown, 6*7 ; Bordentown, 
■4 ; Burlington, 74 ; Beverley, V*/ ; De- 
anco, 79; Palmyra, 84; Camden, 91; 
Philadelphia, 92. 

In the summer season no more delight- 
ul journey can be made than the first 30 
liles of our present route across the 
avely bay and harbor of New York, to 
outh Amboy, past the villaged and 
illaed shores of Staten Island and the 
laritan River. (See New Yoek and 

''ICINITT.) 

Soutit Amljoy (30 miles) is the 



steamboat landing-place, and the northern 
terminus of the Camden and Amboy Rail- 
road. It is at the mouth of the Earitan 
River, at the entrance of Earitan Bay. 
Upon arriving here, passengers are trans- 
ported in a short space of time from the 
steamboat to the railroad cars ; and, 
after a slight detention, proceed on the 
journey up a steep ascent from the 
river, and soon enter a deep cutting 
through the sand-hills. The road is then 
continued through a barren and uninter- 
esting region of country toward the Del- 
aware at Bordentown. 

Jamesburg (44 miles). Junction of 
Freehold and Jamesburg Railroad. 

ISortleiatO't^ia (64 miles), is situated 
on a steep sand-bank, on the east side of 
the Delaware. The principal objects of in- 
terest here are the extensive grounds and 
mansion fonnerly occupied by the late 
Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Spain. Al- 
though in a commanding situation, the 
view is greatly obstructed from the 
river. This is a favorite resort of the 
Philadelphians during the summer season. 
The Delaware and Earitan Canal here 
connects with the Delaware Eiver. A 
branch road, six miles long, on the bank 
of the canal and river, unites this tov/n 
with Trenton. Bordentown was incor- 
porated in 1825, and has a population of 
6,000. Nearly opposite Bordentown once 
stood the Palace, the country seat of 
William Penn. It was constiaicted in 
1683, at an expense of $35,000. 
• Baai-liEig-tois. — Hotels, City, Bel- 
doi's. 

Burlington (74 miles) is a port of entry 
en the Delaware, 19 miles from Philadel- 
phia. Burlington College, founded by 
the Episcopalians in 1846, is located 
here, and there are besides, upon the 
banks of the river, two large boarding- 
schools, one for each sex. Burlington is 
connected with Philadelphia by steam- 
boat, and is a place of great summer re- 
sort thence. It was settled in 1667, was 
originally called New Beverly, and has a 
population of 6,000. A bi-anch road to 
Mount Holly, six miles. 

Beverly, built on the banks of the Del 
aware since 1848, has now a population 
of 1,500. It is a suburb of Philadelphia 
distant 15 miles. 

Camden is at the terminus of our 
129 



Camden.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[Long Bi;ancii. 



route, upon the east bank of the Delaware 
Eiver, immediately opposite the city of 
Philadelphia, with which there is con- 
stant communication by ferry. It is the 
terminus also of the West Jersey and 
Camden ami Atlantic Railroads. It was 
chartered in 1831, and already contains 
nearly 20,000 inhabitants. The vicinity 
abounds in fruit and vegetable gardens. 
(See Philadelphia and Yicinity.) 



ROUTE III. 

NEW YORK TO LONG BBANCff, AT- 
LANTIC CITY, AND PHILADELPHIA. 

( Via, Baritan and Delaware Bay Rail/way.) 

This is a pleasant and expeditious 
summer route to Red Bank, Long Branch, 
Deal, Squam Beach, Tom's River, and At- 
lantic City. From Pier No. 32 N. R. by 
steamboat " Jesse Hoyt," to Port Mon- 
mouth, and thence by rail. 

Stations. — Highlands, 22 miles; Red 
Bank, 26; Shrewsbury, 28; Oceanport, 
31; Long Branch, 34; Squankum, 40; 
Manchester, 54; Jackson Junction 
(branch) to Atlantic City, 93 ; Camden, 
112. 

Atlantic City. — Hotels, the 
United States, Surf House. 

Atlantic City, 61 miles from Philadel- 
phia, and 133 from New York, may be 
reached from the former city twice daUy 
by the Camden and Atlaoitic Railroad. 
It has fine accommodation for bathing, 
and is a place much resorted to by visitors 
from Philadelphia and New York. The 
season at Atlantic City and Cape May 
opens about July 10th, and closes Sep- 
tember lath. 

Kj o m g' Kraiacli. — Hotels, Stet- 
son s, the Continental, the Ifansion. 

Among the more modern watering- 
places of America, Long Branch deserv- 
edly occupies a prominent position. Its 
special recommendations are its proximity 
to New York, its easy and pleasant access, 
and the invigorating influences of its 
ocean breezes, combined with its bathing 
privileges. The hotel accommodation of 
the place, which as late as 1861 was al- 
most wholly monopolized by the Man- 
sion, Howland, and United States, has 
now been so greatly extended as to em- 
130 



brace five large first-class hotels, and as 
many more of smaller dimensions, but 
scarcely less liberal fare and appoint- 
ments, well adapted to the tastes and 
wants of private families. Stetson'' s, at 
the south end of the main avenue or 
drive, has few equals as a watering-place 
hotel in the country. During the height 
of the season it is thronged with the 
beauty and fashion of the metropolis. 
Band of music nightly. 

There is admirable sport in this vicinity 
for the angler. The Shrewsbury River, on 
the one side, and the ocean on the other, 
swarm with all the dehcate varieties of 
fish with which our markets abound. . 

Slirewshury, Red Ra7iJc, and Tinton 
Fcdls, in the vicinity of the Branch, are 
also places much resorted to. A favorite 
route to Long Branch is by the Seaside 
Railway. Steamer " William Cook," from 
foot of Barclay Street, twice daily during 
the season. Time to the Branch, one and 
a half hours. 



BOUTE IV. 

( Via Jersey Central Railway.) 

Prom foot of Liberty Street, New York 
(pier 15 N. R.) to Jersey City, and thence 
by rail, via Bergen Point. 

Stations. — Elizabeth, 13 miles ; Craw- 
ford, 11 ; Scotch Plains, 22 ; Plainfield, 
24 ; Somerville, 36 ; Whitehouse, 46 ; 
High Bridge, 54 ; Hampton Junction, 
59 ; Phillipsburg, 74 ; Easton, Pa., 75, and 
the West. 

ISergen (4 miles) is a pleasant vil- 
lage in Hudson County, on the summit 
of Bergen Ridge. It was first settled in 
1616. Bergen Point, reached by car or 
steamboat from New York, is pleasantly 
situated on the Kills. It is a place of 
much resort during the summer months. 
The Latouretle House is open for visit- 
ors from June 15th. 

Scotcla l?laiMS (22 miles) con- 
tains a church edifice and upward of 100 
dwellings, mostly occupied by visitors 
during the summer months. 

l"laisi.fieltl (24 miles), m Union 
County, is pleasantly situated on Green 
Brook, 20 miles west-southwest of New- 
ark. It is surrounded by a rich farming 






MOEKISTOWN.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[Paterson. 



country. It was laid out in lYSS. Popula- 
tion, during the summer months, 4,500. 

Somerville (36 miles), South Branch 
Railroad to Flemington. 

Kew Hampton (59 miles) is in Hunter- 
idon County, 16 miles north-northwest of 
I Flemington. This is the southern termi- 
jnus of the Delaware, Lackawanna and 
Western Railway of Pennsylvania, which 
[leads through the Water Gap to Scranton, 
Great Bend, Binghamton, and the North. 
1SIoo]iis1>ni*y (6*7 miles) is pleas- 
lantly situated on the Muscanetcong 
JRiver, on the boundary-line of Warren 
land Hunterdon Counties. 

ROUTE V. 

NEW YORK TO 3I0RRIST0WN AKD 
HA CKETTSTO WN. 

{Via Mot^is and Essex Railway.) 

(Feret foot of Barclay Street, New 
lYork.) 

Stations. — Hoboken, If miles ; New- 
,rk, 10 ; Orange, 14 ; South Orange, 16 ; 
illburn, 19 ; Summit, 23 ; Chatham, 26 ; 
adison, 28 ; Morristown, 32 ; Morris 
lains, 34 ; Denville, 39 ; Eockaway, 41 ; 
over, 44 ; Drakesville, 49 ; Stanhope, 
4; Waterloo, 57 ; Hackettstown, 62. 

MorristOTTM. (32 miles), the capital 
f Morris County, is splendidly situated on 
,he Whippany River. It is noteworthy 
s having been the headquarters of the 
'American army on two occasions. The 
ibouse occupied by General Washington 
j.s still pointed out. The town contains a 
ijne pubhc square, court-house, and sev- 
,bral churches. Population, 4,000. 

Dover (44 miles), on the Rockaway 
ftiver, 12 miles beyond Morristown, 
las extensive manufactories of iron and 
iteel. 

li Maclicttsto'^vii. (62 mOes) is the 
;erminus of the Morj'is and Essex Rail- 
oay. It is on the Muscanetcong Creek, 
icar the Morris Canal, about 50 miles 
lorth of Trenton. It was incorporated 
n 1852, and has extensive flouring-mills. 

MOUTE VI. 

( Via Northern New Jersey Railway.) 

Trains leave Jersey City four times 
laily for Bergen, New Durham, Allerton's, 



Hackensack Junction, Fort Lee, Engle- 
wood, Cresskill, Closter, Tappan, and 
Piermont. Distance, 25 miles. Time, one 
and a half hours. 

HacIceEasacfe, the chief town of 
Bergen County, is pleasantly situated on 
the west bank of the Hackensack River, 
from which it derives its name, 13 miles 
north by west of New York. It contains 
about 250 dwellings and several church 
edifices. 

S^atersoiBj the capital of Passaic 
County, is finely situated on the right 
bank of the Passaic River, immediately 
below the falls. It is 12 miles from New 
York, by the Erie Raihcay. It was 
founded in 1*791. In point of population 
it is the thii-d city of the State, in manu- 
factures the second. Many of its cotton 
manufactories are quite extensive. One 
of the most extensive silk-mills in the 
United States is located here, employing 
nearly 800 hands. It is connected by 
bridges with the village of Manchester. 
In the neighborhood of the city is a fine 
race-course, largely frequented by patrons 
of the turf. Population, 20,000. The 
Falls of the JPassaic, though less frequent- 
ed of late than formerly, attract an- 
nually large numbers of visitors. The 
total descent of the river is 72 feet, afford- 
ing a fine water-power. At Seacaucus, on 
the plank-road from Hoboken to Pater- 
son and about five miles from the former 
point, are the race-course of the Hudson 
County Association, and the training- 
stables of Colonel McDaniels. 

Cape Klay. — Hotels : Coiigress 
Hall, under the proprietorship of J. F. 
Cake &Co., has been extended and im- 
proved. It now embi-aces the former 
grounds, with the addition of the Ocean 
House grounds, giving a sea frontage of 
1,200 feet, and accommodation for 1,200 
guests. The Cohmihia is now under the 
management of Mr. George J. Bolton, of 
the Bolton House, Harrisburg, and is 
strictly a first-class house, with fine con- 
veniences for bathing. The United States 
is also a well-kept and popular house. A 
new hotel on the site of the old Mount 
Vernon Hotel, at the north end of Cape 
Island, is spoken of, but not yet com- 
menced. 

Route. — From New York every evening 
131 



Schooley's Mountain.] 



NEW JERSEY. 



[Gkeenwood Lake. 



during the season by steamboat. From 
Philadelphia (Camden), by West Jersey 
Rallwuii to Glassboro, and tlienee by Cape 
May and Millville Railway ; distance, 80 
miles. (See Routes from Philadelphia.) 
Cape May is at the extreme southern point 
of New Jersey, where the floods of the 
Delaware are lost in the greater floods of 
the Atlantic. The beach for bathing or 
driving is one of the best on the Atlantic 
coast. The little village of the Cape (Cape 
Island) is thronged in the summer season 
by thousands of gratified pleasure-seekers. 
They come chiefly from Philadelphia, Bal- 
timore, and the South. 

Cold Spring, two miles north of the 
beach, on the line of the railroad, aflbrds 
a pleasant drive and picnic place. No 
hotel accommodation yet at this Spring. 

Sclaoo ley's Motiiitaisa. — 
Hotel, the Heath House. 

Route. — From New York, by the Mor- 
ris and Essex Railway, 62 miles to Hack- 
ettstown, and thence 2|- miles by stage. 
Visitors from the South proceed via Phila- 
delphia and New Brunswick, connecting 
v/ith the Neio Jersey Central Railway aA. 
Bound Brook, and from this line as above. 
The height of the mountain is about 
1,100 feet above the sea. Springs, con- 
taining muriate of soda, of lime, and of 
magnesia, sulphate of lime, carbonate of 
magnesia, and silex, and carbonated oxide 
of iron, are near its summit. 

15Md.4l's Hialce. — Hotel, the For- 
rest House. 

From New York by the Morris and 
Essex Railway, 54 miles to Stanhope, and 
thence, 2|- miles by stage. Budd's Lake 
is a beautiful mountain water, deep, pure, 
and well suopliedwith fish. 
132 



Oi*ecii>voo«l ILiSike. — Hotel, 
the Windermere House. 

From New York by Erie Railway, 50] 
miles to Monroe, and thence by stage. To| 
Greenwood Lake, sometimes called Long! 
Pond, is a very agreeable jaunt from thel 
metropolis, whether for the pure air of thel 
hills, the pleasant aspects of Nature, or for] 
the sports of the rod and the gun. Greeu-^ 
wood lies in Orange County, 8 miles south-^ 
west of Chester, in the midst of a very^ 
picturesque mountain region. It 
beautiful water of seven miles in extent,'! 
and all about it, in every direction, are 
lesser but scarcely less charming lakes 
and lakelets, some of which, in a ride or 
ramble over the countiy, delight the eye 
where least dreamed of. Such an unex- 
pected vision is Lake Macopin, and the 
larger waters of the Wawayandah. The 
last-mentioned lake is situated in the Wa- 
wayandah Mountains, about 3i miles from 
the New York and New Jersey boundary- 
line. The word Wawayandah signifies 
winding stream, and is very characteristic 
of the serpentine course of the outlet of 
this lake toward the Wallkill. Waway- 
andah is almost divided by an island into j 
two ponds, and thus gets its home name] 
of " Double Pond." It is very deep, and ' 
aboimds in fine trout. This varied hUl^ 
and lake neighborhood presents in its gsa^ 
era! air an admirable blending of the wil^ 
ruggedness of the great mountain rangeS 
and the pastoral sweetness of the fertile 
valley lands ; for it possesses the fea 
tures of both, though of neither in th| 
highest degree. (For other places aa^ 
summer resorts in New Jerse}', see Net 
York City, and Philadelphia and Vi- 
cinity.) 



Delaware.] 



DELAWARE. 



[Delaware. 



DELAWAEE. 



Delaware is, next to Eliode Island, 
the smallest State in the Union — her 
greatest length and breadth being, respee- 
tively, only 96 and 8'J miles. The first 
settlements within the limits of the State 
were made by the Swedes and Finns about 
the year 1627. In 1655 the country fell 
into the possession of the Dutch, and in 
1C64 passed under British rule. It was 
originally a portion of Pennsylvania, and 
was governed by the rulers of that colony 
until the time of the Revolution. 

The landscape of the northern portion 
of Delaware is agreeably varied with pic- 
turesque hills and pleasant vales. In the 
central and southern portions of the State 
the country is level, ending in marsh and 
swamp lands. The only considerable 
waters of the State are the Delaware 
River and Bay, on its eastern boundary. 
The eastern shore of Maryland, which 
is easily reached from the railway lines of 
Delaware^ offers great attractions to sports- 
men and tourists inMaryland. The Bran- 
dywine is a romantic stream, famous for 
the Revolutionary battle fought upon its 
banks near the limits of this State, Sep- 
tember, 1*7 7 7. Lords Cornwallis and 
Howe, Generals Washington, Lafayette, 
ji Greene, Wayne, and other distinguish- 
ed English and American leaders, took 
[j part in this memorable conflict. The 
j Americans retreated to Germantown, 
j with a loss of 1,200 men, while the British 
II remained in possession of the field, with 
jj a loss of about 800. The population of 
[I the State in 1860 was 112,216. Though 
s strongly urged to join the Southern States 
I in the secession movement, Delaware re- 
mained true to the Union throughout the 
, war, and furnished 2,000 soldiers to the 
Federal army at the outbreak of the re- 
bellion. 
Routes. — The direct routes between 



Philadelphia and Baltimore are — the 
Railroad Line and the Steamboat and 
Railroad alternately. The distance 
by the former route is 98 miles ; time, 
four hours. Tourists, with ample time, 
and who are desirous of varying the 
route of ti'avel, will find that over the 
Columbia Branch of the Pennsylvania 
Central Railroad to Columbia, on the 
Susquehanna River, thence to York, and 
thence by Northern Central Raihoay to 
Baltimore, a very pleasant excursion. 
Distance, 153 miles. Another route open 
to tourists, is from Philadelphia by steam- 
boat down the Delaware River to Del- 
aware City, 46 miles ; thence through 
the CJiesapeaJce and Delaioare Canal, 16 
miles ; and thence down Elk River and 
Chesapeake Bay, and up the Patapsco 
River to Baltimore, 56 miles; total, 116 
miles. The great feature of interest on 
this route, and perhaps the only induce- 
ment to deviate from the regularly trav- 
elled route by the PMladdpliia, Wilming- 
ton and Bcdlimore Railway), would be 
the pleasure of seeing the formidable 
excavation on the Chesapeake and Del- 
aware Canal, termed the "Deep Cut," 
which extends for six miles, and is 70 
feet deep in the deepest part. A bridge 
of 235 feet span extends over this great 
chasm, at an elevation of 90 feet above 
the canal, under which steamboats, 
schooners, and other small vessels can 
pass. This canal is 66 feet wide at the 
surface, and 10 feet deep, with two lift 
and two tide locks, 100 feet long by 22 
wide. It was completed in 1829, at a 
cost of $2,750,000. As already stated, 
the shortest, most expeditious, and by far 
the most popular line of travel between 
Philadelphia and Baltimore is that af- 
forded by the Philadelphia, Wilmington, 
and Baltimore Railway. This fine road, 
133 



Chester.] 



DELAWARE. 



[Wilmington. 



the result of a combination of three com- 
panies, has been com])leted and in opera- 
tion since February, 1S38. The cost of 
road and equipment has been upward 
of $10,000,000, and its management has 
been such as to inspire the utmost con- 
fidence and the most liberal support. 



MOUTE I. 

PUILADELPITTA, WILMIlTGTnN, HA VBE 
DE GRACE, ANJ> BALTIMORE. 

{Passenger Station. Broad Street, corner 
Washington Avemu.) 

STATiONS.^Gray's Ferry, 2 miles ; Laz- 
aretto, 11; Chester, 14; Thurlow, 16; 
Claymont, 20; Bellevue, 23; Wilmmg- 
ton, 28 ; New Castle Junction, 30 ; 
Newport, 32 ; Stanton, 34 ; Newark, 40 ; 
Elkton, 46 ; Northeast, 52 ; Charlestown, 
55 ; Perryville, 61 ; Havre de Grace, 62 ; 
Aberdeen, 6*7 ; Perrymansville, 71 ; Bush 
River, 74 ; Edgewood, 77 ; Magnolia, 79 ; 
Harewood, 81 ; Chase's, 13-Mile Switch, 
86 ; Stemmer's Run, 89 ; Back River, 
91 ; Baltimore, 98. 

Leaving the depot, the route lies 
through the now busy suburbs to the 
Schuylkill Riyer, at Gray's Ferry, which 
is crossed over a handsome bridge in 
view of Woodlands Cemetery. An obe- 
lisk, built by the railroad company, to 
commemorate its completion, stands on 
the right, near the bridge, which is some- 
times referred to as the "Newark Vi- 
aduct." Passing the Lazaretto, a large 
building, surmounted by a cupola, stand- 
ing on the banks of the Delaware, 11 
miles from Philadelphia, we shortly 
reach 

Claester (14 miles), interesting to 
the tourist as the point where the Ameri- 
can army crossed the Delaware in 1777, 
to intercept the British troops on their 
march to Philadelphia. It is at the mouth 
of Chester Creek, and is divided by that 
stream. It has the distinction of being 
the oldest town in the State, having been 
settled by the Swedes in 1643. its ori- 
ginal name was Upland. The Indian 
name was Mecoponaca. Extensive dairies 
are in the neighborhood. The Provin- 
cial Assembly was held here in 16.82, 
William Penn being then Governor. The 
134 



precise spot where Penn landed (Novem. 
ber, 1682), on the bank of the Del- 
aware, south of Chester Creek, and 
marked by a holly, is still pointed out. 
The old Couri-Houae, erected in 1724, is 
an interesting structure. Population, 
10,000. 

Four mile? beyond Chester we reach 
the line which divides the Keystone 
State from Delaware, and crossing Naa- 
man's Creek (Claymont), a little beyond 
Linwood Station (JSIarcus Hook of the 
Dutch), we reach the Brandywine, fa- 
mous for the battle fought on its banks 
September, 1778, and soon after Belle- 
vue (23 miles). WooHon Hall, on the 
right, is a handsome mansion in the Nor- 
man style, finished in 1855. 

"Wilmimg^ton (28 miles).— Hotels, 
Indian Queen, United States. Wilming- 
ton, the most important town between 
Philadelphia and Baltimore, is situated 
between the Brandywine River and the 
Christiana Creek (Minquas), one mile 
above their junction, and in the midst of 
one of the finest agricultural districts in 
the Middle States. It occupies the site 
of Fort Christiana, and the village built 
back of it, and called by the Dutch Chris- 
tianham. Oh the surrender of the Dutch 
possessions in Delaware (1674), the name 
was changed to Altona. It is built on 
ground gradually rising to the height of 
112 feet above tidewater, and is reg- 
ularly laid out, with broad streets cross- 
ing each other at right angles. In 1777 
it v/as occupied by the British. In 1809 
it was chartered as the "Borough of 
Wilmington," and in 1832 it was incor- 
porated. Since 1860, both its business 
and population have much increased : at 
that time it contained about 16,000 in- 
habitants, and now the population num- 
bers 25,000. Th? Old Sivedes Church, 
the corner-stone of which was laid May 
28, 1698, is worthy a visit. The church- 
yard surrounding it contains some quaint 
epitaphs. On the Brandywine River are 
some of the finest flouring-mills in the 
United States, to which vessels can come 
drawing eight feet of water. It contains 
also ship and steamboat yards, a foundery 
for the manufacture of patent car-wheels, 
which are used all over the country, and 
a number of large manufacturing estab- 
lishments of various kinds. DuponCs 



Stanton.] 



DELAWARE. 



[Elkton. 



famous Powder Mills are in the vicinity. 
It is the seat of a Catholic College [St. 
Mxi-y^s), and is generally distinguished 
for its academies and boarding-schools. 
It is connected with New Castle, Dover, 
Milford, Seaford, Salisbury, and Princess 
Anne, by the Delaware Railway line, 
wliich intersects the Philadelphia and 
Baltimore line at this point. (See Route 
II.) Passengers by evening trains from 
Philadelphia to Baltimore, desirous to 
see Wilmington, can procure "lie-over 
tickets " by applying to the conductor. 

Four miles southwest of Wilmington 
lies the village of Neviport (32 miles), the 
point of departure for the Brandywine 
Springs, three miles distant. Newport 
lays considerable claim to antiquity, hav- 
ing been founded by Swedes and Finns 
m 1639. 

Stanton (34 miles) is a pleasant little 
village, lying a short distance north of 
the railroad. This is the highest point 
between the Chesapeake and Delaware 
Bays, the rivers and streams (White Clay 
and Red Clay Creeks) on either side of 
it flowing respectively into them. On 
Red Clay Creek the American army was 
encamped, September 8, 1'7'7'7. 

Six miles beyond Stanton is Newark 
(40 miles), the seat of Delaware College, 
Newark Academy ., and other educational 
institiitions. This locality was the scene 
of some fighting between the British and 
American forces, August, I'Z'Z'Z. Two 
miles farther, and four from Elkton 
Station, the train crosses Mason a?id 
Bixonh line. This line, established in 
1'76'7, was long the boundary between 
the Northern andSoathern States. 

A writer, recording its history before 
the war of 1861-65, thus speaks of this 
famous line: "The mere fact, that it 
points out the boundary between two 
States of the Confederacy, would be in- 
sufficient to elevate it to a dignity beyond 
that of similar conventional barriers else- 
v^liere, but it has assumed a far higher 
grade of importance in the political 
world, from having furnished, in a por- 
tion of its length, a line of demarcation 
between slaveholding and non-slavehold- 
ing territory. This circumstance has 
nearly buried in oblivion its original aird 
simple character as a boundary between 
adjoining Commonwealths, and has given 



it, in the mhids of men, certain hypothet- 
ical extensions which have changed its 
reputed 'place of beginning,' and its 
terminus, from time to time, until it has 
come to be regarded by many as extend- 
ing from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It 
now figures in American political discus- 
sions, m this ideal character, and involves 
itself with some of the most difficult and 
most dangerous questions which agitate 
the public mind." The original line was 
327 miles long, and was designated by 
stone pillars, four feet long, set one mile 
apart. These pillars were engraved in 
England, with the arms of the Calvert 
and Penn families. Some of them are 
still standing, though scarcely recogni- 
zable. While, with the extinction of 
slavery in the United States, this line has 
lost much of its significance, the interest 
attaching to it has largely increased. 
Two large stones, known as the Tangent 
Point, standing in an open field within a 
hundred yards of the railroad, mark the 
commencement ot the line. 

Ellitom (46 miles), the county seat 
of Cecil County, is at the head of naviga- 
tion on the Elk River, whence its name 
" Head of Elk," changed to Elkton in 
I'ZS'/. The first settlement vfas made in 
1694 by Swedish fishermen from Fort 
Cassimer (New Castle). Previous to 1787 
courts were held at " Court-House Point," 
10 miles below, on the river. The Court- 
House, built in 1791, is an interesting 
edifice. Near this place the British army, 
under Sir William Howe, landed in 17'77, 
and marched to Philadelphia. Formerly 
stages left Elkton daily for the Eastern 
Shore of Maryland. The route now is 
from Wilmington by the Peninsular or 
Delaware Railway (see Route II.) 
Northeast Railway Station (25 miles) 
has an extensive iron furnace, etc. 

OaarlestO'WM (55 miles), near 
the mouth of the Northeast River, is a 
place with some claims to antiquity, hav- 
ing been settled in 1742. This and the 
neighboring village of Northeast were 
burned by the British under Admiral 
Cockburn (1813). The Brick Meeting- 
house, ten miles from Northeast, was 
built by William Penn for the Society of 
Friends. Gilpiii's Rock, at the crossing 
of the river, is a favorite picnic place. 

Three miles from Charlestown the train 
135 



Uavre de Grace.] 



DELAWARE. 



[New Castle. 



crosses the Principio Creek, explored by 
the renowned Captain John Smith in 1608, 
near the Principio Iron Furnace, and soon 
after reaches Perryville, formerly Cecil. 
Here the entire train is ^'■ferried'" across 
the Susquehanna River, one mile in 
width to Havre de Grace. 

Bliivre de <Ki*ace (62 miles from 
Philadelphia, 150 from New Yox'k). 
This town, laid out in I'ZVe, was also 
burnt by the British in the War of 1812. 
It is the southern terminus of the Tide- 
water Canal, famous for its scenery. In 
crossing, a fine view is had of the river, 
Chesapeake Bay, and town of Port De- 
posit, on the east bank of the Susque- 
hanna, to the mouth. Steamboat to Port 
Deposit. The bridge, so long in process of 
construction, was finished in January, 
1867 ; the cost exceeded $1,250,000. Prom 
Havre de Grace westward, the road Ues 
through Maryland, 37 miles, to the city of 
Baltimore. The most noteworthy objects 
en route thither are the Spesutia Churchy 
at Perrymansville (71 miles), built (1851) 
on the site of the original wooden buildmg, 
erected in 1670, and the bridges over the 
Bash and Gunpowder Rivers. The former 
is 3,138 feet and the latter 5,250 feet long. 
These bridges were partially destroyed by 
a mob from Baltimore, May, 1861, and 
again in 1864. IlaxweWs Point, three 
miles below the Gunjjowder Bridge, is one 
of the finest points for gunning on the 
bay. There is accommodation for visitors. 
This locahty abounds with wild-fowl, and 
is regarded as the choice spot of the 
" Chesapeake ducking-grounds." (See 
Chesapeake Bay.) The Susquehanna 
River was discovered by Captain John 
Smith, in 1608, at which time the adja- 
cent country was inhabited by a warhke 
tribe of Indians called the Sasquetaha- 
naghs. 

" The council-fire is seen no more, 

Lona; since upon the hills gone out; 
The shadow war-dance too is o'er, 
And hushed the happy hero's shout. 

" Their game is gone, their hunting-ground 
Transformed to helds of golden grain ; 
No more shall Indian footsteps bound, 
O'er scenes their fathers loved, again." 

Chase's, S!emmer''s Hun, and £ack 
liiver Stations (the latter nine miles from 
Baltimore) are quickly reached and pass- 
136 



ed, and soon the towering steeples of the 
" Monumental City " rise to view. The 
residence of the late General Stansbury, 
whose name is closely connected with the 
defence of Baltimore (1814), stands near 
the line, a little east of Back River. In 
entering Baltimore, the stanger will ob- 
tain a view of the Patapsco River, Port 
McHenry, and other objects described in 
our chapter on Baltimore and Vicinity. 
(For continuation of this route southward] 
to Washington and Richmond, etc., see] 
chapters on Makyland and District of'] 
Columbia.) 



BOUTE II, 

PEILADELPHIA TO THE EASTERN 
SHORE. 

{Via Delaware Railway.) 

A PLEASANT detour may be made by 
leaving the main line {zia Philadelphia, 
Wilmington, and Baltimore Railivay) at 
Wilmington, and take iha Delaware [Yen- 
insular) Railway to the Eastern Shore of 
Maryland. 

Stations. — ^Wilmington ; New- Castle, 6 
mUes ; St. George's, 16; Middleton, 25; 
Townsend, 29 ; Smyrna, 37 ; Dover, 48 ; 
Camden, 51; Canterbury, 56; Harring- 
ton, 64 ; MiLford, 73 ; Farmington, 68 ; 
Bridgeville, 76 ; Scaford, 84 ; Laurel, 90 ; 
Delmar, 97 ; Salisbury, 103 ; Eden — Prin- 
cess Anne, 108 ; Somers's Cove (Cris- 
field), 137 : 165 from Philadelphia. 

P^e>v Castle, on the Delaware 
River, is the eastern terminus of the New 
Castle and Frenchtown Railway. It con- 
tains a Court-House, Public Library, and 
several churches. Boats to and from 
Philadelphia and Cape May call here. 
The Butler House has good accommoda- 
tion for travellers. 

llovei* (48 inUes), the capital of the 
State, is a handsome town, situated on 
Jones's Creek, about five miles west of the 
Delaware Bay. The State House is an 
imposing edifice, with an open lawn iii 
front. Dover contains two good hotels, 
and several elegant private residences. 

MlIi^Fei (73 miles), 25 miles south 
of Dover, is a place of considerable trade. 
The Mispillion Creek, which is navigable 
for schooners to this point, divides the 



Sbatord.] 



DELAWARE. 



[Port Penn. 



I town into North and South Milford. Pop- 
ulation, 2,000. 

j Sealbrd. (84 miles), on the Nanti- 

j coke River, is a place of active trade. 

iThe Nantiooke is navigable for steam- 
boats of light draught to Seaford. 

Sa,lisl»iai"y, Maryland (103 miles), 
the former terminus of the Delaware Rail- 
loay, is on the Wicomico River, 95 miles 

: southeast of Annapolis. It is one of the 
inost flourishing points on the Eastern 
Shore. The route is now complete to 



Somers^s Cove (Crisfield), 29 miles beyond 
Princess Anne. Steamers connect the 
Cove with New York and Norfolk. This 
route affords speedy transit between Phil- 
adelphia and the whole Eastern Shore of 
Marylaud. (See Maryland, for Chesa- 
peake Bat.) 

l*oi-t S^eiasi, on Delaware Bay, 30 
miles north of Dover, is a watering-place 
of much resort. There is good bathing, 
gunning, and fishing in the vicinity of the 
I'ier House. 



Pennsylvania.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Pennsylvania. 



PEISI^SYLYANIA. 



Pennsylvania is, in point of popula- 
tion, the second State in the Union, and 
in all respects one of the most important 
and interesting. A very singular fact in 
her history — singular because it has no 
parallel in the annals of any other mem- 
ber of the American Union — is, that her 
territory was settled without vrar or blood- 
shed. The doctrines of peace and good 
will, taught by William Penn and his 
associates, when they pitched their tents 
upon the suimy banks of the Delaware, 
long served, happily, as a charm over the 
savage natures of their Indian neighbors. 
We have no record of battle and siege in 
the story of this State, from the time of 
the first settlement at Philadelphia, in 
1682, until the date of the Prench and 
Indian War in 1755. During this year the 
famous defeat of Braddoclc, in which 
Washington, then in his early youth, dis- 
tinguished himself, occuri-ed at Pittsburg. 
In 1*763 the massacre of the Conestoga 
Indians took place in Lancaster County. 
In 1'76'7 the southern boundary of the 
State, which has since become famous as 
Mason and Dixon's line, was made. (See 
Stanton, Delaware.) Pennsylvania is 
memorable in the arnals of the American 
Revolution, in which she played a con- 
spicuous part. Upon her soil occurred 
the important battles of Brandywine and 
Germantown (lYV*/). The traveller will 
seek here also for the scenes of those 
celebrated events, the massacres of 
Wyoming and Paoli. Valley Forge was 
the chief headquarters of General Wash- 
higton, and is made yet more interesting 
by the memory of the sufferings there of 
the patriot army during its winter encamp- 
ment in Illl-'JS. Philadelphia was the 
national capital until 1*789 — a period of 
nearly ten years — and here the earliest 
American Congresses assembled. The 
138 



memorable revolt, called the Whiskey 
surrection, happened in Pennsylvania, 
1794. Among the great men whom Peni 
sylvania has given to the Republic, we ms 
cite the honored names of Franklin(thou<_ 
born in Boston), Robert Morris, Pultoi 
Rush, and Rittenhouse. Ex-President Bi 
chanan, Thaddeus Stevens, J. W. Forne^ 
Henry C. Carey, Morton McMichael, an( 
R. Shelton Mackenzie, are citizens of this 
State. Pennsylvania furnished upwan 
of 360,000 troops for the national d( 
fence in the war of 1861-65. 

The landscape of Pennsylvania is ex- 
tremely diversified and beautiful. On< 
fourth of her great area of 46,000 squar< 
miles is occupied by mountain rangeSj 
sometimes reaching an elevation of 2,00W 
feet. These hills, links of the great Al- 
leghany chain, run generally from north- 
east to southwest, through the eastern,] 
central, and southern portions of thi 
State. The spur of this hill-range is calj 
ed South Mountain, where it rises on tj 
Delaware, below Easton. Next, as 
go westward, come the Kittatinny 
Blue Mountains, and the Broad Moui 
tains, south of the North Branch ol 
the Susquehanna. Across the river is th] 
Tuscarora. South of the Juniata are thj 
Sideling Hills, and, lastly, come the 
leghanies, dividing the Atlantic slope 
from the great Mississippi valley region. 
West of the Alleghanies, the only hill- 
ranges in the State are the minor ones 
called the Laurel and the Chestnut 
ridges. This belt of mountains extends 
over a breadth of .200 miles, enclosing 
numberless fertile valleys, many charm- 
ing waters, and the greatest coal fields 
and iron deposits in the Union. Penn- 
sylvania cannot boast the marvellous lake 
scenery of the Empire State ; indeed, she 
has no lakes, if we except the great Erie 



iki 



tlTERS.l 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



raters which wash the shore of the north- 
•est corner of the State. For this want, 
owever, the charms of her many pietu- 
esque rivers fully compensate. Iler val- 
leys are even more inviting and beautiful 
ihan her mountains. The Delaware, the 
liehigh, the Wyoming, the Schuylkill, 
nd the Lackawanna, abound in scenic at- 
:actions. 

RIVERS. 

The Susquehanna, the largest river of 
'onnsylvania, and one of the most beau- 
lul in America, crosses the entire 
readth of the State, flowing 400 miles 
1 many a winding bout, through moun- 
liii gorges, rocky clifls, and broad, cul- 
vated meadows. (See Susquehanna 

JVEE.) 

The Jiiniaia is the chief affluent of the 
usquehanna. It enters that river from 
JO acclivities of the Alleghanies in she 
L>t, through a mountain and valley 
:iuntry of great natural attraction. (See 
iDNiATA River.) 

j The Delaware flows 300 miles from its 
jburces in the Kaatskill Mountains to the 
lelaware Bay, forming the boundary be- 
veen Pennsylvania and New Jersey, and 
terward between New Jersey and Dela- 
are. It is one of the chief features of 
le varied scenery of the Neie York and 
)-ie Railwai/, which follows its banks 
a- 90 miles. (See N. Y. and E. R. R.) 
ower down, its passage through the 
ountains forms that great natural won- 
n- of the State, the Delaware Water 
lip. (See Delaware Water Gap.) The 
ivigation of the Delaware is interrupted 
Trenton, New Jersey, by falls and 
pids. Philadelphia is on this river, 
)Out 40 miles above its entrance into 
elaware Bay. The river was named in 
)iior of Lord De La Ware, who visited 
e bay in 1610. The shores of the Dela- 
ire and its smaller tributaries are fine 
umiug-grounds in the autumn months. 
fied birds and Rail are found in great 
lundance. (See Chesitsr.) 
The Lehigh is a rapid and most pictu- 
sque stream. Its course is from the 
ountain coal districts, through the 
mous passage of the Lehigh Water 
ip, below Mauch Chunk, to the Dela- 
ire at Easton. Its length is about 90 
liles. 



The Sehui/IMU floAvs 120 miles from the 
coal regions north, and enters the Dela- 
ware five miles below Philadelphia. We 
shall review it as we call at the towns 
and places of interest upon its banks. 

The Alleghany and the Monongahela 
Rivers — one 300 and the other 200 miles 
in length — unite at Pittsburg and foi-m the 
Ohio. The Youghiogheny is a tributary 
of the Monongahela. 

The LacTcaivanTia is another mountain 
stream, which takes its rise in the north- 
east part of the State, and falls into the 
north branch of the Susquehanna River, 
10 miles above Wilkesbarre. The val- 
ley of tlie Lackawanna is noted for its 
rich coal mines. 

PHTIi ADEL PHIA. 

Hotels : The hotels of Philadelphia, 
though neither so numerous nor ex- 
tensive as those of New York, are never- 
theless conspicuous for the comfort of 
their internal arrangements and tlie 
excellence of their cuisine. Among the 
most desirable are the following: the 
Continental, on Chestnut and Ninth 
Streets, opened in 1860, has a repu- 
tation second to no hotel in the United 
States. Under the proprietorship of 
Messrs. J. E. Kingsley & Co., its reputa- 
tion bids fair to be sustained. This fine 
estabUshment is fitted with a passenger 
elevator, and has all the appointments of 
a first-class hotel. The Chestnut Street, 
front, 200 feet long, is of Pictou sand- 
stone, six stories high, and is much ad- 
mired. The La Pierre, at the intersec- 
tion of Chestnut and Broad Streets, has 
been recently refurnished throughout, and 
is now one of the most elegant houses in 
the country. It is in the immediate neigh- 
borhood of the Union League Club-rooms, 
the Opcra-House, and the theatres, and 
has accommodation for upward of 300 
guests. Messrs. Baker & Farley are 
the lessees. The Girard ffovse, on Chest- 
nut Street, opposite the Continental, is a 
commodious and well-kept house. The 
Merchants' Hotel, on Fourth Street, and 
the Amej-ican, on Chestnut, near Fifth 
Avenue, are popular houses. Charges 
at the Continental and La Pierre, $4.50, 
at the Girard $4 per day. 

* For routes to New Tork, see " New Jee- 
set;" for routes to Baltimore, see "Dela- 
ware." 

ISO 



PniLADELPIIIA.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia 



Furnished apartmentiS in private 
houses are readily obtained by those 
desiring them. The best locations are 
to be found ia Chestnut Street, above 
Twelfth Street, in xVrch Street, and in 
and around Franklin, Peun, and Logan 
Squares. Furnished apartments, with 
good board, can be had at about one- 
hdf the hotel rates. 

Uesxaurants. — Of late, the restaurant 
lias become a feature of Philadelphia 
life, though in so essentially a domestic 
and home community it will be long be- 
fore it becomes fashionable. The Union 
League of Philadelphia, on Broad Street, 
corner of Sansom, offers the greatest at- 
tractions to gentlemen, visiting or mak- 
ing a stay in the city. Files of the lead- 
ing European and American magazines 
and journals are to be found here. At- 
tached to it is the best club-room and 
refectory in Philadelphia. A member's 
introduction and ticket will secure the 
visitor the privileges of the club for one 
month.* 

The British Coiisulate in Philadelphia 
is at 619 Walnut Street. Charles E. K. 
Kortright, consul. 

Philadelphia, the largest city in the 
United States, and in point of population 
and commerce second only to New York, 
lies between the Delaware and Schuylkill 
Ilivers, five miles above their junction, 
and nearly 100 miles, by the Delaware 
Bay and River, from the Atlantic. Its 
precise latitude is 39° 51' north, and 
longitude '75° 10' west, being 136 miles 
northeast of Washington City, and 87 
miles southwest of New York. The 
site of the city is so low and level, that 
it does not make a very impressive ap- 
pearance from any approach. But the 
elegance, symmetry, and neatness of 
its streets, the high cultivation and the 
picturesque character of the liigher sub- 
urban land to the northward, fully com- 
pensate for this want. By a recent Act 
of the Legislature, the limits of the city 
have been made coextensive with those 
of the county of Philadelphia, which em- 
brace an area of 120 square miles. The 
most thronged portion of the city is near 
the apex of an angle formed by the ap- 

* This fine building was almost wholly de- 
stroyed by lire, September 6, 1866. It is now 
being rebuilt. 

140 



proach of the two rivers, between which 
it is built. Streets extend from river to 
river, and are crossed by other streets at 
right angles. This portion of the city 
covers an area of nearly nine square 
miles, and embraces Chestnut and Market 
Streets, East and Ninth, Third (the Wall 
Street of Philadelphia), and other leading 
thoroughfares and business marts of the 
city proper. Within this area are lo- 
cated the Exchange, State House, Post- 
Office, Custom-Ilouse, the large banking 
houses, insurance and newspaper offices, 
warehouses, wholesale stores, etc. The 
entire length of the city north and south 
is 20 miles, and from east to west 8 
miles, and with its rapid growth west of 
the Schuylkill it will soon exceed even 
these magnificent dimensions. 

The city, as originally incorporated 
(1*701), was bounded by the rivers Del- 
aware and Schuylkill, Vine and Cedar 
Streets; but in 1854 the adjoining dis- 
tricts of Spring Garden, Penn, Northern 
Liberties, Kensington, and Eichmond, on 
the north, West Philadelphia, etc, on the 
west, and Southwark, Moyamensing, and 
Passyunk on the south, were consol- 
idated with the city, into one municipal 
government. Within this area are 300 
miles of paved streets, and upward of 
115,000 buildings, of which number 
23,000 have been erected since 1855. 

The history of Philadelphia, though of 
more recent date than that of many other 
American cities, is both interesting and 
eventful. To William Penn is almost 
universally credited the first settlement 
and foundation of the city (1682), though 
local record is by no means clear on that 
point. In the year 1681 the first set- 
tlers arrived from London, in the ship 
" Sarah and John," Captain Smith. Wil- 
lam Penn, accompanied by a colony of 
English Friends or Quakers, in 1682, 
planned and settled Philadelphia after a 
regular purchase from the Indians, ratified 
by treaty in due form. However this may. 
be, certain it is that the sohriquel of the 
" City of Brotherly Love," which it now 
bears, was given to it by Penn him- 
self. At the time of Penn's arri.val, 
the site of the city was owned and oc- 
cupied principally by Swedes, whose 
claims were subsequently disposed of to 
Penn, in exchange for lands on the 



Philadelphia.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



Schuylkill, near what was then called 
" Swedes' Ford." The original plan of 
I the city was made by Thomas Holmes, 
f and surveyed in 1683. The first house 
f recorded to have been erected was that 
; built by George Guest, and known as 
I the " Blue Anchor" Tavern. This stood 
' near the mouth of Dock Creek (north- 
[ west corner Dock and Front Streets), 
[ then known as " Sandy Beach." The 
first daily newspaper published in the 
country was published here. It was 
called " Poulson's Daily Advertiser." It 
was established by Mr. Dunlop in l'7'7l, 
and first issued as a daily in 1*784. In 
1840 it was merged in the North Ameri- 
can. The WeeMy Mercury was first is- 
sued December 22, 1*719. No striking 
events mark the history of Philadelphia 
down to the days of the Revolution, and 
its part -in that great drama was more 
peaceful than warhke. The first Con- 
gress assembled here, as did also sub- 
sequent Congresses, dux-ing the contin- 
uaace of the war. The Declaration of 
Independence was signed and issued here, 
July 4, 1*7*76, The Convention which 
formed the Constitution of the Republic 
assembled here. May, 178*7. Here re- 
sided the first President of the United 
States, and here, too. Congress continued 
to meet until about 179*7. The city was 
in possession of the British troops from 
[September, 1777, to June 11, 1778, a re- 
!sult of the unfortunate battles of Brandy- 
Jwine and Germantown. 

Philadelphia, though a healthy city, 
has been frequently visited by pesti- 
lence. In 1793 the yellow fever broke 
'out and carried off upv/ard of 4,000 
;people, or one-tenth of its entire popu- 
tlation. In 1822 the Asiatic cholera 
[visited the city. In 1849 and again in 
1:1854 it was prevalent and very fatal. 
"in 1844 riots broke out between the 
Protestant and Catholic population in 
the northern and southern suburbs. The 
military were called out and quiet re- 
stored, but not until several Catholic 
cliurches had been destroyed, and many 
lives lost. Market Street divides the city 
into two divisions, called North and South : 
all that part of the city toward Arch 
Street, from Market, is called North ; 
and all toward Chestnut .Street, from Mar- 
ket, is called South ; the numbers running 



100 to a block or square, make it com- 
paratively easy to find a residence or build- 
ing in almost any part of the city. All that 
part of the city from the Delaware to the 
Schuylkill is called Philadelphia ; and 
that on the upper or west side of the 
Schuylkill, West Philadelphia. 

Population. — The census returns made 
for the several decades will best illustrate 
the growth of the city in population and 
trade. In 1684, it contained 2,500 in- 
habitants ; in 1777, 21,167; in 1790, 
42,520; in 1800,70,287; in 1810, 96,- 
287 ; in 1820, 119,325 ; in 1830, 167,325 ; 
in 1840, 258,037; in 1850, 408,762; in 
1860, 565,529. The population is now 
(1866) estimated in round numbers at 
700,000. Its annual increase is estimated 
at 16,000 to 18,000. 

General Aspect. — The approach to 
Philadelphia by the most frequented 
route, viz., from New York by rail, via 
Camden, New Jersey, is not apt to give 
the visitor a very favorable impression of 
its extent and importance. The site of 
the city, as before remarked, is flat. The 
view best calculated to impress the stran- 
ger is that which meets him on approach- 
ing it from the northwest, particularly 
from the summit of the inclined plane on 
the Old Columbia Railroad. (See New 
Jersey, for Routes to Philadelphia.) 

Ferries. — There are six ferry Unes 
running to and from Philadelphia, as fol- 
lows, viz. : 

West Jersey. — Market Street, Philadel- 
phia, to Market Street, Camden ; fare, five 
cents. 

Camden and PMladelpMa. — Market 
Street, Philadelphia, to Federal Street, 
Camden ; fare, five cents. 

Camden. — South Street, Philadelphia, 
to Kaign's Point, Camden ; fare, five cents. 

Gloucester. — South Street, Philadel- 
phia, to Gloucester, N. J. ; fare, five cents. 

HedJ^ank. — South Street, Philadelphia, 
to Red Bank, N. J. ; fare, ten cents. 

Cooper''s Point. — Tine Street, Philadel- 
phia, to Cooper's Point ; fare, five 
cents. 

Sliahamaxon. — Fare, five cents. 

Besides these ferries, numerous steam- 
ers ply on the Delaware, affording easy and 
pleasant communication during the sum- 
mer between Philadelphia and Arlington, 
Chester, Delanco, Ti-enton, Burlington 
141 



PniLADELPIIIA.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



Bristol, Newcastle, Tacony, Bridgeport, 
etc. 

Street Railways. — Philadelphia has 
the most complete system of city pas- 
senger railways on the continent. The 
lines are 22 in number. By the use of 
transfer or "exchange" tickets almost 
any point within the city limits can be 
reached by rail at a uniform fare of seven 
cents. The Merchants' Exchange is the 
principal car station. 

Hacks, Fares, etc. — (Regulated by 
law.) One passenger, with trunk, valise, 
carpet-bag, or box, distance not exceed- 
ing one miles, 50 cents. Distance over a 
mile, and not exceeding two miles, '75 
cents. Each additional passenger, 25 
cents. 

If the distance be over two miles, each 
additional mile, or part of a mile, 25 
cents, in addition to the sum of 15 cents 
for the first two miles, and for every ad- 
ditional passenger, 25 cents. If engaged 
by the hour, with the privilege of going 
from place to place, and stopping as often 
as may be required, $1 per hour. In case 
of dispute, call a policeman, or apply at 
the mayor's office. 

Distance, Average ten Squares to a 
Mile. — From Chestnut Street, south, to 
Prime, one mile. ■ 

From Chestnut Street, north, to Brown, 
one mile. 

From Delaware River to Twelfth Street, 
one mile. 

From Delaware River to Schuylkill 
River, two miles. 

From Camden and Amboy Depot to 
Trenton (Kensington) Depot, two miles. 

From Camden and Amboy Depot to 
Baltimore Depot, two miles. 

Public Squares. — Washington Square, 
a little southwest of the State House, is 
finely ornamented with trees and grav- 
elled walks, is surrounded by a handsome 
iron railing with four j^rincipal entrances, 
and is kept in excellent order. During 
the War of Independence upward of 
2,000 American soldiers were buried in 
this spot, which went by the name of the 
" Potter's Field." No traces of their 
graves can now be seen. It was made a 
public square and promenade in 1815. 

Independence Square, in the rear of the 
State House, was purchased by the Pro- 
vincial Assembly in 1782 for the erection 
142 



of State buildings, etc. It is enclosed by 
a solid brick wall, rising three or four feet 
above the adjacent streets, surmounted by 
an iron railing. The entire area is laid 
off in walks and grass-plots, shaded with 
majestic trees. It was within this en- 
closure that the Declaration of Indepen- 
dence was first publicly read, July 4, 
1*776, and at the present day it is fre- 
quently used as a place of meeting for 
political and other purposes. The build- 
ings facing this square on Walnut Street 
occupy the site of the " Old Prison," the 
" British Provost " of the Revolution. A 
new Court-House is in course of erectiou 
on the northwest corner of the square. 

Franklin Square, between Race and 
Vine, and Sixth and Franklin Streets, is 
an attractive promenade, vAXh a fountain 
in its centre, surrounded by a marble 
basin ; it is embelHshed with a great va- 
riety of trees. 

Fenn Square, at the intersection of 
Broad and Market Streets, is now divided 
into four parts by Market and Broa( 
Streets beiag cut through it. It w; 
formerly the site of the old water-works, 

Logan Square, the largest in the cityj 
is on Eighteenth Street, between Raci 
and Vine Streets. The Sanitary Fair 
was held here, June, 1864. 

Fitienhoiise Square is between Eigh- 
teenth and Nineteenth Streets and Wal- 
nut and Locust Streets 

Beyond the Fairmount Water Works, 
in the northern part of the city, on Lemon 
Hill, once the residence of Robert Morris, 
of Revolutionary memory, another beau- 
tiful park has recently been laid out. It 
is known as Morris Square, and is bound- 
ed by Susquehanna, Hancock, and How- 
ard Streets. 

Jefferscn Square is embraced within 
Third and Fourth, Washington Avenue 
and Federal Streets. 

Hunting Fark, on the York Road, con- 
tains 43 acres, and a fine avenue of tulip 
poplars. 

Fairmount or City Park extends along 
the entire eastern front of the Schuylkill 
River from the suspension bridge' to a 
point north of the Girard Avenue bridge. 
It embraces the Fairmount Water-works, 
formerly "Pratt's Garden," "Sedglcy 
Park," and the Schuylkill Water-workaa 
The scenery in- the neighborhood is 






Philadelphia.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia.' 



3eedingly picturesque, and its proximity to 
;he old homesteads of "Solitude," "Eg- 
jlesfield," " Sweetbrier," and Lansdowne 
ilanor (Park), renders it historically inter- 
>.>sting. 

Visitors to Philadelphia in the winter 
ivill find both pleasure and profit in a 
rip to one or other of the numerous 
ikating-parks. We append the list, for 
|lie convenience of those partial to this 
exercise — 

Skating-Paek s. — Union Parle. — 
^^'ourth and Diamond Streets. 

PMladelpliia Park. — Thirty-first and 
rValnut Streets. 

Xaiional Park. — Twenty-first Street 
nd Columbia Avenue. 

Keystone Park. — Third and Morris 
^treets. 

Pushnell Park. — ^Broad Street, above 
\ilumbia Avenue. 

Easttvick Park. — Gray's Ferry Eoad. 
See Baetram's Garden.) 

Central Park. — Fifteenth and Wallace 
Streets. 

West Philadelphia Base Ball and Ska- 
,inff Park. — Forty-first Street, north of 
■Lancaster Avenue. 

Philadelphia has few monuments wor- 
hy special observation. That erected 

perpetuate Penii^s Treaty with the In- 
'ia/is is the most noteworthy. It stands 
n Beach Street, above Columbia Avenue. 

Public Buildings. — The most inter- 
sting object in Philadelphia, and the one 
jost frequently visited, is the State 
[louse or Independence Hall. It fronts on 
"hestnut Street, and, including the wings, 
•hich are of modern construction (1813), 
ecupies the whole block, extending from 
ifth to Sixth Streets. The centre edifice 
"as built by Edward Woolley, from de- 
igns by Gov. Andrew Hamilton. It 
as commenced in 1729, and completed 

1 1734, at a cost of £5,600. In the fol- 
3\ving year it was occupied by the Gen- 
ral Assembly, who continued its occupa- 
ion until the removal of the seat of gov- 
rnment to Lancaster, in 1799. In 1740 
wo wings were erected, which were con- 
ected with the main building by an 
ireade, with stairs leading to the upper 
i3oms. At a later period there were add- 
d at the Fifth and Sixth Street corners 
blong wooden buildings or sheds, which 
ere used for storage and other purposes. 



The old wings and arcade were torn 
down in 1813, and the present two-story 
edifice was erected on their site. The City 
Hall, corner of Fifth Street, was erected in 
1790, and the County Court-House com- 
menced in 1789, and finished in 1791, an 
addition to it being made in 1797. In the 
the east room of the State-House, known 
as Independence Hall, on July 4, 177C, '.he 
Declaration of Independence was adopted 
by Congress, and pubhcly proclaimed 
from the steps on the same day. The 
room presents now the same appearance 
as it did at that time in furniture and in- 
terior decorations. It contains a statue 
of Washington, portraits of William Penn, 
by Henry Inman, of John Hancock, 
Marquis de la Fayette, by Sully, of Baron 
Steuben, Commodore Porter, Roger 
Sherman, and numerous other pictures, 
and many curious Revolutionary relics. 
Descriptive catalogues of the pictures can 
be obtained of the superintendent, James 
J. Ashmen, at the Hall. Admission daily 
from nine o'clock until two. Here also is 
preserved the old "Liberty Bell," import- 
ed from England, but which, as the visitor 
is informed, " got cracked by the stroke of 
a hammer in trying the sound." It was 
i-ecast by Isaac Morris, and was the first 
bell in the United States rung after the 
passage of the immortal Declaration. It 
bears the following lines, said to have 
been inscribed by Morris himself : 

" TLe motto of OTjr fatber band 

Circled the world in its embrace — 
'Twas Liberty throughout the land, 

And good to all their brothers' race ; 
Long, here within the pilgrims' bell, 

Had lingered — though it often pealed — 
Those treasured tones that eke should teii 
When Freedom's proudest scroll was 
sealed 1 " 

A small bell, made from the filings of 
the original, is to be seen in the rooms of 
the Historical Society, Athenseum Build- 
ing. The Statue of Washington is wrouglit 
in wood, and was executed by Rush, of 
Philadelphia. Near it is a piece of stone, 
said to be a part of the step of the bal- 
cony upon. which John Nixon stood while 
reading the Declai'ation of Independence. 
Up-stairs, over Independence Hall, is the 
" Lobby." famed in colonial days as the 
scene of many a sumptuous feast. In it 
were confined the American officers cap- 
143 



PUILADELPHIA.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



tured at the battle of Germantown. The 
original steeple having become much de- 
cayed, was taken down in 1774, twenty- 
sis years before the removal of the Gov- 
ernment to Washington, and the present 
one erected in 1828. The building on the 
southeast corner of Chestnut and South 
Streets was the old Congress Hall. Here 
Washington bade farewell to public life. 

The Ciisiom-Hoiise, formerly the United 
States Bank, on Chestnut Street, between 
Fourth and Fifth Streets, is a chaste spe- 
cimen of the Doric order of architecture, 
modelled after the Parthenon at Athens, 
with the omission of the colonnades at 
the sides. The Chestnut Street and Li- 
brary Street fronts have each eight mas- 
sive columns. It was commenced in 1819, 
and completed in about five years, at a 
cost of half a million of dollars. 

The Merchants' Exchange, situated be- 
tween Dock, Walnut, and Third Streets, 
is of white marble. It is a beautiful 
structure, and of its kind one of the 
finest in the country. The Board of 
Brokers and Commercial Association 
have rooms here. The Merchants'' Itead- 
ing-Room, in the rotunda of the second 
story, is ornamented with designs in 
fresco. 

The United States Mint is on Chestnut 
Street, corner of Juniper Street, and 
fronts on the former 122 feet. It is built 
of white marble, in the style of a Grecian 
Ionic temple, and comprises several 
distinct apartments. The corner-stone of 
the present building was laid in 1829; 
the edifice cost $200,000. Coining is 
among the most interesting and attractive 
of processes to those who have never 
witnessed such operations. The collec- 
tion of coins preserved here is among 
the largest and most valuable in the 
Union. Visitors are admitted during the 
morning of each day, Sundays excepted, 
from 9 to 12 o'clock, on application to 
the proper officers. 

The United States Navy Yard is locat- 
ed on Front Street, below Prime, 1-J- miles 
southeast of the State House, and con- 
tains within its limits about 12 acres. It 
is enclosed on three sides by a high and 
substantial brick wall; the east side 
fronts on and is open to the Delaware 
River. Entrance from foot of Federal 
Street. The yard contains every prepa- 
144 



ration necessary for building vessels-of- 
war, and has marine barracks, with quar- 
tei'S for the officers. The sectional float- 
ing dock in this yard, built in 1850, cost 
nearly one million dollars. Admission 
daily from 10 to 5 p. si. A movement ia 
now on foot to established the Navy 
Yard permanently at League Island, far- 
ther down the Delaware. 

Nearly opposite the Navy Yard, ex- 
tending to the Schuylkill River (Gray's 
Ferry Road), is the United States Naval 
Asylum, founded in 1 835, and constructed 
of white marble, with a front of 380 feet. 
The grounds are extensive, and taste- 
fully laid out. Application for admissioa, 
should be made at the gate. 

Girard College is situated on Ridge 
Avenue, in a northwest direction from 
the city proper, about two miles from the 
State House. It was founded by Citizen 
Stephen Girard, a native of France, who 
died in 1831. He bequeathed $2,000,000 
for the purpose of erecting suitable build- 
ings " for the gratuitous instruction and 
support of destitute orphans." The site 
of the edifice and grounds embrace an 
area of 42 acres, and crown the summit 
of a slope at once commanding and at- 
tractive. The corner-stone was laid July 
4, 1833. The buildings were completed 
in 1847, and the institution went into 
operation January 1, 1848. The central 
or college building is 218 feet long, 160 
broad, and 97 feet high, and is a noble 
marble structure of the Corinthian order. 
Six other buildings, each 125 feet by 52, 
and three stories high, flank the main edi- 
fice on either side. The library is in the 
central building, to the right of the main 
entrance. A statue of the founder, said to 
be a truthful hkeness, stands at the foot of 
the grand stairway of the college. Under- 
neath the statue his remains are interred. 
The easternmost building embraces four 
separate and complete dwellings for the 
several officers of the college. Every thing 
required in and for the institution is pro- 
duced on the establishment. The number 
of orphans at present in the college isj 
470. An Infirmary was added in 185£ 
'60. The whole is enclosed by a stOE 
wall 10 feet high, which is in singul| 
contrast to the splendid edifice withi| 
The whole cost of the ground and stn 
ture was $1,933,821.78. Permits to vig 



Philadelphia.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



the college and grounds may be obtained 
of Henry W. Arey, Secretary, or of tbe 
following Directors: James J. Boswell, 
400 Chestnut Street ; A. C. Roberts, 301 
North Eleventh Street ; Robert M. Foust, 
112 South Fourth Street; Henry Simons, 
1510 Girard Avenue; Robert 'Gill, 948 
South Front Street. Principal entrances 
I on the north and south fronts. Clergy- 
men are not admitted. 

Among the public institutions of Phila- 
delphia, the Fairmount Water-works are 
worthy special notice. These fine works, 
which supply the city with water, are on 
the east bank of the Schuylkill, about two 
miles northwest from the heart of the 
cit}', occupying an area of 30 acres, a 
large part of which consists of the 
" mount," an eminence 100 feet above 
itidewater in the river ' below, and 
about 60 feet above the most elevated 
iground in the city. The top is divided 
[into four reservoirs, capable of containing 
126,000,000 gallons, one of which is divid- 
jed into three sections for the purpose of 
ifiltration. The whole is surrounded by a 
|beautiful gravelled walk, from which may 
ijbe had a fine view of the city. The reser- 
iVoirs contain an area of over six acres ; 
jthey are 12 feet deep, lined with stone, 
and paved with brick, laid in a bed of 
clay, in -strong lime cement, and made 
water-tight. The power necessary for 
;forcing the water into the reservoirs is 
ioblained by throwing a dam across the 
,, Schuylkill ; and by means of wheels mov-- 
fed by the water, which work forcing- 
Ipumps, the water of the river is raised to 
ipe reservoirs on the top of the " mount." 
(This dam is 1,600 feet long, and the race 
jlapward of 400 feet long and 90 wide, cut 
im solid rock. The mill-house is of stone, 
338 feet long and 56 wide, and capable 
pf containing eight wheels, and each 
|)ump will raise about 1,250,000 gallons 
;ln 24 hours. . The Spring Garden Water- 
luorlis are situated on the Schuylkill, a 
jbhort distance above Fairmount. The 
average daily consumption of water in 
;the city of Philadelphia is 2*7,000,000 
gallons. 

The United States Government has 
two arsenals in the neighborhood of 
Philadelphia ; one on Gray's Ferry Road, 
south of the Naval Asylum, the other 
aear Frankford. The latter has one of the 



largest powder-magazines in the United 
States. Applications for admission are 
received by the commandant of the post. 
The State Arsenal is at the corner of Six- 
teenth and Filbert Streets. The Soldiers 
and Sailors' Home has suitable quarters 
in the building. To the Home is at- 
tached a library of 3,000 volumes for the 
use of the inmates. The City Arsenal is 
on Race Street, below Broad. 

Places of Amusement. — Theatrical ex- 
hibitions were introduced into Philadel- 
phia in 1*754. The first performances 
were held in a store-house in Water 
Street, near Pine. Subsequently a suit- 
able building was erected in South Street, 
but it was not until 1*791, that the theatre 
(since removed) on Chestnut Street, west 
of Sixth Street, was built. In 1809 the 
Olympic (see Walnut Street Theatre) 
was built, since which time the drama 
may be said to have flourished. 

The Academy of Music (Opera-House), 
on Broad and Locust Streets, is the most 
complete establishment of its kind in the 
United States. The first story is of 
brown-stone and the rest of pressed brick, 
with brown-stone dressing. The front, 
on Broad Street, is 140 feet, and presents 
a chaste apj)earance. Its extent on 
Locust Street is 268 feet. The auditori- 
um is 102 feet deep, 90 feet wide, '70 feet 
high, and has sittings for upward of 
3,000 persons. The first-class seats num- 
ber 1,692, and are divided into the par- 
quet, parquet circle, balcony, first tier, 
boxes, and six proscenium boxes. The 
foyer, or retiring-room, in the second 
story front, is a handsome apartment, sup- 
ported by sixteen Ionic columns. The 
chandelier in the centre has 240 lights, 
and is much admired. The Academy was 
first opened January 26, 185*7. 

The Walnut Street Tlieatre is at the 
corner of Walnut and Ninth Streets. It 
was built in 1809 as the "Olympic," and 
enlarged and remodelled in 1865. 

Arch Street Theatre is in Arch Street, 
above Sixth. The Neiv Cliesinut Street 
ITieatre is a commodious and well-ar- 
ranged establishment. It fronts on Chest- 
nut'Street, west of Twelfth Street. The 
Musical Fund Hall, 806 Locust Street, 
between Eighth and Ninth Streets, is a 
favorite concert and lecture room. It 
was erected in 1824, and cost $2*7,500. It 
145 



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PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadklphia. 



has seats for 2,500 persons. The Citij 
Museum, Callowliill Street, below Fifth; 
Wclcli's National C/rcu.^, Walnut Street, 
above Eighth; Ooncerl Hall, 1221 Chest- 
aut Street; National Hall, 1226 Market 
Street ; Sansom Street Hall, Sansom 
Street, above Sixth ; the Assembly Build- 
ings, southwest corner of Chestnut and 
Tenth Streets; Metropolitan Hall, 613 
Chestnut Street ; Continental Theatre, 
Walnut near Eighth Street ; Wheatley^s 
Theatre, Chestnut Street, above Twelfth. 
There are several other halls, concert, and 
lecture rooms in the more remote parts of 
the city. 

The Gymnadum, under the manage- 
ment of Professors Hillebrand & Lewis, is 
open daily at the northeast corner of Arch 
and Ninth Streets (see Skating-Parks). 
Choice seats at all the above places can 
bo secured at Risley's Continental News 
Exchange up to 65- p. m., each day. 

When in the neighborhood of the 
Academy of Music and La Pierre House, 
a good opportunity is afforded the 
stranger of visiting the fine Club-Rooms 
of the Union League Association (pictures, 
flags, etc.). No more elegant place to 
beguile an hour can be found in the city. 
Upward of one hundred and seventy-six 
thousand dollars were expended on the 
construction of this building, an amount 
which has been largely increased by out- 
lays subsequently made to repair the 
damages caused by the fire of September 
6, 1866. The Hst of members num- 
bered (1866) 1,'760 ; George W. Boker, 
secretary. The new hall of the Horti- 
cultural Society, south of the Academy, 
is a handsome edifice, just completed. 

Medical Institutions. — Philadelphia 
is justly famed for its schools of medi- 
cine. Among them the most prominent 
is the medical department of the Univer- 
nly of Pennsylvania. It occupies a very 
central locale on the west side of Ninth 
Street, between Chestnut and Market 
Streets, in the immediate neighborhood of 
the Continental, Girard, and other lead- 
ing hotels. The College of Philadelphia 
was instituted in 1*749, and was the first 
Qiedical college in the TJnited States. In 
1779 its charter was abrogated; and the 
[Jniversity of Pennsylvania, which had 
been first established (1744) as an acade- 
ny, was organized. In 1789 the charter 
146 



and privileges of the college were re- 
stored by the Legislature, and in 1791 the 
two institutions were united as the Uni- 
versity of Pennsylvania. It has a large 
and valuable library, and an extensive 
and valuable anatomical collection. This 
institution is largely indebted for its es- 
tablishment and success to Drs. Wm. 
Shippen and John Morgan, whose por- 
traits adorn its walls. 

Jefferson Medical College, situated in 
Tenth Street, below Chestnut, was estab- 
lished in 1825, and was originally con- 
nected \ni\\ the college at Canonsburgh, 
but is now an independent institution. 
The number of pupils averages about 300 
annually. It has an anatomical tnuseum 
and lecture-room, open to visitors. 

The College of Physicians, instituted in 
1787 and chartered 1789, is one of the 
principal sources from which proceeds the 
Pharmacopoeia of the United States. The 
College Hall is located at the northeast 
corner of .Locust and Thirteenth Streets, 
and contains a large and valuable medical 
library. 

The Philadelphia College of Pharmacy, 
in Filbert Street, above Seventh, estab- 
lished in 1821, was the first regularly or- 
ganized institution of its kind in the 
country. The hall was built in 1832. 

Besides these, Philadelphia has an 
Eclectic and Homceopalhic Medical Col- 
lege, a Female Medical College, College of 
De^ital Surgery, and several other prom- 
inent medical institutions. 

Literary and Scientific Instit0tions. 
(See also Libraries.) 

The American Philosophical Society, 
founded in 1743, has its hall at the south- 
west corner of South Fifth and Chestnut 
Streets. It owes its origin mainly to the 
efforts and influence of Franklin, Gov. 
John Penn, and the active members of 
"the Junto," a once celebrated scientific 
association, organizsd in 1727. The site of 
the present building was donated by the 
State (1785), and the building erected and 
occupied in 1790. It has a library of 
25,000 volumes, and a choice collection 
of minerals, fossils, and ancient relics. 
The Committee-Room should be visited. 
For admission to the hall, apply to the 
librarian, J. P. Wesley. 

The Franklin Institute, situated at No. 
155 Seventh Street, below Market, was 



9 



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PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphta. 



incorporated in 1824. Its members are 
very numerous, composed of manufac- 
iturers, artists, mechanics, and persons 
Ifriendly to the mechanic arts. The an- 
nual (October) exhibitions of this Insti- 
tute never fail to attract a large number 
of visitors. It has a library of about 
18,000 volumes, and an extensive reading- 
i'oom, where most of the periodicals of 
the day may be found. Lectures are 
given on Tuesday and Thursday of each 
v/eek, from October to April. Strangers 
admitted on application to M. W. Ham- 
ilton, secretary. 

The Academy of Natural Sciences, 
founded 1812, incorporated ISl^, is well 
worthy a visit. The present building, 
which is at the intersection of Broad and 
-Ransom Streets, in the immediate vicinity 
bf the Union League and La Pierre 
tfouse, was commenced May 25, 1839, 
md enlarged in 184*7-1853. The main 
hall is 45 feet by 28, with spacious gal- 
leries. The library is one of the most 
3omplete of its kind in the United States. 
See Libraries.) The Collection of Orni- 
thological works and specimens is espe- 
bially rich, as is also the Cabinet of Bot- 
iny. The Cabinets of Geology and Min- 
eralogy are also very complete. The 
entire collection of the Museum embraces 
pver 200,000 specimens. Admission by 
bembers' tickets on Tuesday and Friday 
ifternoons. Tickets also of E. Parish, 
500 Arch Street. 

I The Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 
lounded for the purpose of diffusing a 
knowledge of local history, especially in 
[elation to the State of Pennsylvania, has 
ts rooms in the upper floor of the Athe- 
iseum Building, corner of Sixth and Adel- 
)hi Streets. It has caused to be pub- 
ished a large amoimt of information on 

Iubjects connected with the early history 
f the State, and is now actively engaged 
;dth similar pursuits. Here are pre- 
erved an original portrait of Penn, be- 
ieved to be the only one in existence, 
he helt of wampum presented to Penn, 
ly the Leni-Lenape sachems at the 
amous treaty in 1682, and other inter- 
sting relics. Open every Monday (July 
nd August excepted). 

The University of Pennsylvania, Ninth 
'treet, between Chestnut and Market 
treets, is a prominent edifice, occupying 



a great portion of the entire square. 
The University was founded as a charity 
school and academy in 1745, erected 
into a college in 1755, and subsequently 
into a university in 1797. In 1798, the 
trustees of the University purchased from 
the State what was then the President's 
(United States) House. This building 
was enlarged in 1807, and finally re- 
moved in 1828, to make way for the 
present structures. The University em- 
braces four departments, viz. : the Aca- 
demical, the Collegiate, the Medical, and 
the Law. (See Medical College.) 

The Polytechnic College of Pennsyl- 
vania, on West Penn Square, Market 
Street, is organized on the plans of the 
Industrial Colleges of France and Ger- 
many, and comprises a Scientific School, 
and six Technical Schools. It was in- 
corporated in 1853. 

The Wagner Free Institute, the gift of 
Professor "Wagner, is near the corner of 
Columbia Avenue and Thirteenth Street. 
The fine residences of Edwin Forrest and 
Thomas J. Mackenzie, are in the neigh- 
borhood. 

Libraries. — (See also Literary and 
Scientific Institutions.) There are up- 
ward of 20 public libraries in Philadel- 
phia, containing 300,000 volumes. 

The Philadelphia Library, sometimes 
called the Franklin Library, founded in 
1731, through the influence of Benja- 
min Franklin and the .members of the 
" Junto," stands on South Fifth (No. 
125), near Chestnut Street. The first 
importation of books was received Oc- 
tober, 1732. In 1744 the Union Library 
Company was incorporated with it. The 
corner-stone of the present library build- 
ing was laid August 31, 1789. Over the 
front entrance is a marble statue of 
Franklin, executed in Italy, by order of 
William Bingham. The library is rich 
in early printed works, and works -on 
American history. Valuable donations 
of books have been made by William 
Logan, Samuel Preston, Robert Barclay, 
and William Mackenzie. The number of 
volumes, including the Loganian Library, 
is 85,000, and is increasing at the rate of 
2,000 annually. Admission .free from 
10 o'clock till sunset. Lloyd P. Smith, 
librarian. 

The Mercantile Library, near the Fhil- 
'147 



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[PUILADELPIIIA. 



adelphia Library, was founded in 1821, and 
the present Ijuilding erected in 1845, at a 
cost of $23,199. Library numbers 40,000 
volumes. Ojien from nine a. m. to ten 
p. M. daily. John Edraands, librarian. 

The Library belonging to the Acad- 
emy of Natural Sciences, northwest cor- 
ner Broad and Sansom Streets, contains 
26,000 volumes. 

The Athsjueum, on Sixth Street, comer 
of Adelphi, is generally visited by stran- 
gers. This institution was established 
February 9, 1814, and opened in the fol- 
lowing month, over " Gary's book-store," 
southeast corner of Chestnut and Fourth 
Streets. The corner-stone of the present 
edifice was laid November 1, 1845, and 
the hall opened in 1847. Cost $50,000. 
The second story contams a library, news 
and reading rooms, and a chess-room. 
The library numbers 25,000 volumes, 
John W. White, librarian. In a hall in 
the third story of the Athenaeum is the 
Library Qf the Historical Society of Penn- 
sylvania, which, though small, contains 
many valuable works. The collection of 
official documents relating to the early 
French Revolution preserved here num- 
bers 1,000. The medical history of the 
American Revolution, known as the 
" Potts Papers," and the original manu- 
script report of Mason and Dixon's sur- 
veys, are also kept here, together with 
the only original life-portrait of William 
Penn ever taken. An antique clock by 
Fromantell, of Amsterdam (1659), is 
worthy of notice. The whole number of 
volumes, bound and unbound, is 18,4*70. 
Richard Eddy, librarian. 

The Apprentices' Library, corner of 
Ffth and Arch Streets, has 22,000 vol- 
umes. It was founded in 1821, and is 
open to the youth of both sexes. 

Friends^ Library, 304 Arch Street, has 
7,000 volumes. John L. Stokes, libra- 
rian. 

Law Association Library, Court-House, 
southeast corner of Chestnut and Sixth 
Streets, organized 1862; 7,500 volumes. 

Art Societies. — The Pennsylvania 
Academy of Fine Arts, founded in 1805, 
and incorporated 1806, has a fine build- 
ing, with a noble suite of galleries on 
Chestnut Street; entrance, 1025 Chest- 
nut Street, between Tenth and Eleventh 
Streets. It possesses a very valuable and 
148 



permanent collection of pictures, and 
holds an annual exhibition of new works 
(April to June). Among the more prom- 
inent pictures on exhibition are, Death on 
the Pale Horse, and Chriit Rejected, by 
West ; and the Dead Man Restored, by 
Washington Allston. The Relief of Ley- 
den, by Wittkamp, is also a fine picture. 
Admission 25 cents ; catalogue extra. 

The Artists' Fund Society, 1334] 
Chestnut Street, offers a fine exhibitionJ 
of American art. The rooms of the 
Numismatic Society of Philadelphia are 
at 524 Walnut Street, facing Independf^ 
ence Square (former number 927 Market), 
The School of Design for Women, estab- ' 
lished in 1850, is on Penn Square and 
Filbert Street. 

Benevolext akd Charitable Ixstitc- 
TioNs. — The hospitals, asylums, and 
other charities of the city, number more 
than 100. The following are best worthy 
a visit, viz. : 

The Pennsylvania Hospital, in Pine 
Street, between Eighth and Ninth Streets, 
is an admirable institution, founded in 
1751. It contains an anatomical museum 
and a library of more than 10,000 vol- 
umes ; A. F. Miller, librarian. In the 
rear of the lot, fronting on Spence Street, 
is a small building, which formerly con- 
tained West's celebrated picture of Christ 
Heeding the Sick, presented to this insti- 
tution by its author, and now in the 
Insane Asylum. Admission, Monday 
and Thursday afternoons. The comer- 
stone of the east wing was laid May 
28, 1755 ; the west wing was erected in 
1796, and the centre in 1805. A statue 
of Penn stands in the lawn facing Pine 
Street. 

The County Almshouse, situated on 
the west side of the Schuylkill, facing the 
river opposite South Street, is an im- 
mense structure, consisting of four 
main buildings, each 500 feet front, cov- 
ering and enclosing about 10 acres of 
ground. The site is much elevated above 
the bank of the river, and commands a 
fine view of the city and surrounding 
country. Connected with the Almshouse 
is a hospital with accommodations for 
600 patients. 

Pennsylvania Lnsane (Asylum) Hospi- 
tal, West Philadelphia, between West- 
chester and Haverford roads. It con- 



iOPfllLADELPHIA.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philabfxphia. 



tains male and female departments, and 
was first opened in 1841. The grounds 
attached to it embrace 114 acres. The 
main front is 430 feet long. Christ Heal- 
ing the Sick, by West, is on exhibition 
here. Visitors admitted every day, ex- 
cept Saturday and Sunday. The Market 
Street (W. P.) cars run direct to the Hos- 
pital. 

The United Steites Marine Hospital, 
founded 183B, has a handsome situation 
ou the east bank of the Schuylkill, below 
::'outh Street. It is for the use of invalid 
seamen and officers disabled in the ser- 
vice (see United States Naval Asylum). 
Tlie Pennsylvania Irtstitute for the Deetf 
and Dumb is situated on the corner of 
Ciisad and Pine Streets. The present 
ijuilding was erected in 1825, from de- 
-i-ns by Haviland, at a cost of $80,000. 
Ibc Pennsylvania Institxition for the Pa- 
arurtion of the Blind, situated in Race 
street, corner of Twenty-first, should be 
.•i,-ited. 

iThe Preston Retreat, another famous 
charity, the bequest of Dr. Jonas Preston, 
occupies the square bounded by Twen- 
[ieth, Twenty-first, Hamilton, and Spring 
Barden Streets. Admission daily. 

The House ' of Refuge is on Twenty- 
ecoud Street and Girard Avenue, in the 
fear of the Penitentiary ; the House of 
^orredion is at Bush Hill ; and WilVs 
hospital is on Pace Street, opposite Lo- 
an Square. 

Churches, etc. — The wish of the city's 
bunder, Pcnn, that every one might wor- 
hip God according to the dictates of his 
iwn conscience, seems to have been most 
eligiously carried out by its citizens. Ee- 
igious societies have multiplied exceed- 
pgly, and church edifices have kept pace 
Q increase. These now number 8*70 
jgainst 159 in 1848, of which '76 belong 
p the Presbyterian denomination, 65 to 
|he Episcopal, and 34 to the Roman 
Jatholic. But 14 belong to the Friends 
llr Quakers. We enumerate those only 
est worthy the stranger's attention : 
: The Ceithedred Church of St. Peter and 
)t. Paid, on Logan Square, Eighteenth 
treet, is built of red stone, and is the 
irgest and most imposing church edifice 
1 the city. The plan of the edifice is 
hat of the modern Roman cruciform 
hurches, having a nave in the centre. It 



was commenced in September, 1846, from 
designs by Le Brun, and opened for wor- 
ship in 1862. The front portico was de- 
signed by Notman, and is much admired. 
The dome rises to a height of 210 feet. 
It has a fine organ and fresco paintings.- 
The altar-piece, by Brumidi, is conspicu- 
ous for its fine coloiing. 

The Church of St. Marks (Episcopal), 
on Locust Street, near Sixteenth Street, is 
a beautiful Gothic edifice of light-red 
sandstone, with a tower and steeple of 
admirable grace. It was erected in 1849, 
from designs by Notman. 

Christ Church, on Second Street, 
above Market, with its soaring spire, is a 
very interesting object in its ancient and 
quaint aspect. In the steeple, which is 
196 feet high, is a fine chime of bells. It 
was commenced in 1Y2'7, and completed 
in 1'753. This church was organized in^ 
1695, and, until the erection of the pres- 
ent building, worship was conducted in a 
log chapel. The communion service, pre- 
sented by Queen Anne in 1*708, is unique. 
Washington worshipped here. 

The Church of the Incetrnation, south- 
east corner of Broad and Jefferson Streets, 
the corner-stone of which was laid July 
28, 1866, is a handsome edifice. It is 
of Liperville granite, relieved by corners 
of Pictou stone. 

The Church of Calvary (Presbyterian), 
in Locust Street, and the Baptist church 
in Broad and Arch Streets, are also of 
sandstone, with imposing towers and 
spires. AVe may also mention among the 
churches of the greatest architectural in- 
terest, St. Stepheii's (Episcopal), on Fourth 
Street, below Market, built 1823, in the 
Gothic style, and the Catholic Church of 
the Assumption, St. Judo's, the Presbyte- 
rian churches upon Arch and Eighteenth 
Streets, and upon Arch and Tenth Streets ; 
the Church of the Nativity, and the Bap- 
tist churches on Chestnut and Fifth 
Streets. 

St. Peter's Church, at the intersection 
of Pine and Third Streets, is a venerable 
edifice, founded 1*758, and finished 1761. 
In the yard is a mouument to Commodore 
Decatur. In the towers of St. Peter's, 
St. Stephen's, and of Christ Church there 
are chimes of bells. 

The Swedes' Church, Southwark, in the 
vicinity of the Navy Yard, should not be 
149 



Philadelphia.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



forgotten by the visitor. It is the oldest 
church edifice in the city, having been 
erected in 1700. Previous to that year, 
the site upon wliich it stands was occu- 
pied by a log building, which served both 
as a place of worship, and a block-house 
to protect against Indian attacks. This 
building, which constituted the original 
Swedes' Cliwch, was erected in 16'7'7, four 
years before the arrival of Penn. In the 
yard of the present edifice is the grave of 
Wilson the ornithologist. 

The meeting-houses of the Friends are 
interesting only from association. The 
first, erected in 1685, has long since been 
torn down. Previous to that the meet- 
ing of the Friends took place near the 
Treaty-Ground, at Shackamaxon (1681). 
That on the corner of Arch and Fourth 
is best worth a visit. Next to the Swedes' 
Church it has the oldest burying-ground 
in the city. William Penn spoke over the 
grave of the first person buried here. 
The building on Arch Street, corner of 
Fifth, is interesting as having been built 
and used by the " Fighting Quakers " of 
the Revolution. It is now occupied as the 
ApprenUces' Library. 

St. Andrew's Church, on Eighth Street, 
near Spence, has an imposing fa9ade. It 
is copied from the Temple of Bacchus at 
Taos, and is considered the most perfect 
specimen of the Grecian Ionic order in 
the city. 

Cemeteries. — Philadelphia can boast a 
larger number of beautiful cemeteries 
perhaps than any other city of the Union. 
First and most attractive among them is 
Laurel Hill. This beautiful rural bury- 
ing-ground, the second in respect to age, 
and by many esteemed the first in point 
of beauty in the Union, is situated on 
Eidge Avenue, near the " falls " of the 
Schuylkill, on the east bank of that pic- 
turesque stream. It is easily reached by 
the street-cars from any portion of the 
city, or by boat up the Schuylkill from 
Fairmount. The bank, upon which a 
great portion of the original Laurel Hill 
is laid out, and many of the finer monu- 
ments are erected, is 110 feet high, and 
commands a most charming view of the 
river. No more fitting or beautiful spot 
ior a cemetery is to be found in the 
country. Old (North) Laurel Hill was 
founded in 1835, and laid out by John 
150 



Jay Smith, Esq., President of the present 
Laurel Hill Company; it embraced ori- 
ginally but 20 acres. The surface is un- 
dulating, prettily diversified by hill and 
dale, and adorned with a number of rare 
and beautiful trees. The irregularity of 
the ground, together with the foliage, 
shrubs, and fragrant flowers, which here 
abound, with an extensive and diversified 
view, make the whole scene highly im- 
pressive. 

" Htished as this scene thy aocents be ; " 
The voiceless solitude of death 
Breathes more than mortal majesty." 

The additions to the cemetery grounds 
embrace more than 130 acres, and are 
respectively known as "Central" and 
" South Laurel Hill." Approaches to 
the different portions of the entire ceme- 
tery lead from Ridge Avenue, which 
bounds it on the east. The western or 
river front extends more than a mile in 
length. North Laurel Hill, being the 
oldest and most finished, should be 
visited first. The group near the main 
entrance, known as " Old Mortality," by 
Thom, is finely executed and will com- 
mand attention. The Chapel on the 
brow of the hill, a little to the right of 
Old Mortality, is a Gothic structure with 
a large stained-glass Vi'indow. Improve- 
ments are being made hereabouts which 
will add much to the beauty of the 
ground. The Superintendents hell is 
close by the chapel. Opposite the 
chapel is the monument to General 
Hugh Mercer, who fell at Princeton, and 
not far off the tomb of Commodore Hull ; 
the remains of Commodores Murray, La- 
valette, and Hassler are also near by. 
The vault of. Dr. Kane, the Arctic ex- 
plorer, is underneath the brow of the hill, 
overlooking the Schuylkill, and is cut 
from the sohd rock. Among the more 
prominent monuments recently erected 
at Laurel Hill are those to General F. Pat- 
terson, Henry P. Voorhees, Mrs. Kemp- 
ton, and Miss Bailey. The last, which is] 
of Aberdeen granite, is much admired.! 
The granite obelisk to Charles Thomson,! 
perpetual Secretary of the ContinentaiF 
Congress, and the Hassler monument 
are both fine specimens of art. GodfreJ 
the inventor of the quadrant, Judge Coi 
rad, the author of " Jack Cade," Dr. El 



Philadelphia.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia. 



M, Bird and Brown, the novelists, 
Joseph C. Neal, the author of the " Char- 
coal Sketches," and Joseph S. Lewis, the 
, projector and builder of Fairmount 
Water-works, are all buried here. But 
the great attraction of Laurel Hill, and 
that which preeminently distinguishes it 
among other public burying-grounds, is 
its unique garden landscape, and the 
profusion of valuable trees, shrubs, and 
flowers which adorn and beautify it. 
Amongst the former, of more than ordi- 
nary interest, are some cedars of Leb- 
iinon, the first which bore fruit in the 
Unite.d States, and noble specimens of 
the weeping ash, which thrive finely. 
The great want of Laurel Hill, a good 
di'ive, is now being supplied. Admis- 
sion every day, except Sunday, from nine 
o'clock until sunset. No tickets are 
necessary except to drive in, and these 
are occasionally furnished on application 
to the secretary or treasurer at 624 Wal- 
nut Street, Philadelphia. 

Glenwood, at the intersection of Eidge 
Road and Islington Lane, is prettily sit- 
uated on the ridge which divides the 
waters flowing into the Delaware, from 
those falling into the Schuylkill. It 
contains 21 acres. OfiS.ce, 16 North 
Seventh Street 

Mount Vernon, on Eidge Avenue, op- 
posite Laurel Hill, will repay a visit. It 
has a handsome entrance. 

Momunent Cemetery, situated on Broad 
Street, in the vicinity of Turner's Lane, 
about three miles from the State House, 
was opened in 1838, and now contains 
many handsome tombs. Office, 141 
North Sixth Street. 

HonaJdson's Cemetery is in Shippen 
Street, between Ninth and Tenth. Odd 
Felloios' Cemetery, Twenty-fourth Street 
and Islington Lane, contains S2 acres, 
and is intersected by spacious avenues. - 
Woodlandsi, on the Darby road, beyond 
the Schuylkill, though comparatively a 
new cemetery, has many attractions, and 
commands some fine views. It is 80 
I acres in extent. 

I The burying-grounds attached to the 
Swedes' and Christ Churches, and the 
Friends' Burial- Ground, at the junction 
|i of Arch and Pourth, contain some inter- 
esting monuments. (See Churches.) 

Prisons. — The prison or penitentiary 



system of Pennsylvania, first adopted in 
1'794, and perfected in 1829, reflects last- 
ing credit on its projectors, and is well 
worthy the attention of all interested in 
this deeply important subject. The 
Eastern Penitentiary, in the northwest 
part of the city, is situated on the prop- 
erty once known as Cherry Hill, on 
Coates Street, corner of Twenty-fifth 
Street, and south of Girard College. It 
covers about 10 acres of ground, is sur- 
rounded by a wall 80 feet high, and in 
architecture resembles a baronial castle 
of the middle ages. It is constructed 
and conducted on the principle of strictly 
solitary confinement in separate cells, 
and is' admirably calculated for the se- 
curity, the health, and, so far as is con- 
sistent with its objects, the comfort of its 
occupants. It was finished in 1829, at a 
cost, including the purchase of the site, 
of $600,000. The average number con- 
fined here yearly is 350. Previous to 
the erection of this penitentiary, the old 
Walnut Street Prison was used for the 
custody of convicts. 

The Coimty [Moyamensing] Prison, sit- 
uated on Passyunk road, Moyamensing 
District, below Tenth Street, is a spacious 
Indo-Gothic building. It is constructed of 
Quincy gramte, is three stories high, and 
presents an imposing appearance. It is 
appropriated to the confinement of persons 
awaiting trial, or those who are sentenced 
for short periods. It is managed by a 
board of 15 inspectors. Admission by 
ticket. The Debtors' Prison, adjoining 
the above on the north, is constructed of 
red sandstone, in a style of massive 
Egyptian architecture. It is no longer 
used as a debtors' prison. 

The House of Refvge is situated in 
Parish Street, between Twenty-second 
and Twenty-fourth Streets, near Girard 
College. City oflSce, northeast corner of 
Arch and Seventh Streets. Visitors ad- 
mitted Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 
afternoons. Every needful facility for vis- 
iting the above prisons will be furnished 
on application at the Mayor's office, or to 
Mr. Eichard Vaux, No. 620 Walnut 
Street. 

Markets. — The Markets of Phila- 
delphia, 24 in number, are, many of 
them, worthy of special notice, for their 
great extent and admirable appointment. 
161 



PUILADELPHIA.J 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[PniLADELPllIA. 



The FranMln Market, on Tenth Street, 
above Market, is best worthy of a visit. 
In front of this market-house is a statue 
of Franklin, 10 feet high, cut in free- 
stone. 

Bridges. — There are nine bridges in 
and near Philadelphia. The following 
are best worthy a visit, viz. : Iron Bridge, 
across the Schuylkill, at Chestnut Street. 
It was commenced September 19, 1861, 
and completed July, 1866, and is the first 
cast-iron bridge built in the United States. 
It is 390 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 40 
feet above high water. It is 1,200 tons, 
weight, and cost half a million dollars. 
Fair mount Suspension Bridge is an ele- 
gant structure, built (1841) by Mi'. Ellet, 
and closely resembling the Niagara sus- 
pension bridge, built by the same archi- 
tect; cost $55,000. The Market Street 
Bridge is of wood, resting on stone piers. 
It was erected in 1798, and cost $.300,000. 
A third bridge is in contemplation across 
the Schuylkill at South Street. 

Banks. — The banking-houses of Phila- 
delphia are conspicuous rather for their 
solid, substantial appearance than for 
any architectural display. Of the 31 
banks in the city, the following are best 
worthy the stranger's notice : 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, on Second 
Street, south of Chestnut, is constructed 
of Pennsylvania marble, and has two 
ornamental porticoes. It was commenced 
in 1799, and finished in 1801. The 
building was bought by the Government 
for the purposes of the Post-OfBce, but 
never used. Immediately opposite is an 
old building, once occupied by Penn, and 
known as the " Slate-Roof House." 

The Girard Bank, on Third Street, be- 
low Chestnut, is a stately edifice, origi- 
nally built for the first United States 
Bank (l'795-'98). A few mementoes of 
Girard are here preserved. 

The Bank of North America, on Chest- 
nut Street, built of brown stone, n the 
modern Florentine style, is worthy of no- 
tice as having been the first bank estab- 
lished in this country, December, 1781. 

The Philadelphia Bank, an imposing 
granite structure, is on Chestnut Street, 
between Fourth and Fifth. It was char- 
tered in 1804. This edifice, as well as 
that of the Farmers and Mechajiics' 
Bank adjoining, are among the finest 
152 



banking-houses in the city. The Firai 
National Bank is a solid granite struc- 
ture, just completed, on Chestnut Street, 
near Third. 

A week well employed will suffice, in 
moderately favorable weather, to show 
the visitor the principal objects of inter- 
est in and around Philadelphia, though a 
fortnight might be profitably spent there. 
To those desirous of " doing it," as the 
phrase goes, in the shortest possible 
time, the street cars offer the cheapest, 
and, all things considered, the most expe- 
ditious means. For a complete fist of 
the several main and branch roads and 
routes, . of which there are nearly thirty 
under the control of nineteen companies, 
the stranger had better consult the City 
Directory, published by A. McElroy, and 
to be found at all the hotels. As these 
routes are frequently miles in length, and 
are laid, in many cases, through the prin- 
cipal throughfares and streets, the wary 
stranger will be enabled to see many of 
the objects described in these pages, with- 
out so much as moving from his seat. 

Vicinity. — The vicinity of Philadelphia 
abounds in pretty romantic spots, and 
picturesque drives and walks. Laurel 
Hill and neighboring cemeteries, Girard 
College, and the famous water-works at 
Fairmount, have already been described. 
After visiting Fairmount, the visitor 
should extend his ride up the Wissahickon 
Creek, a stream remarkable for its ro- 
mantic and beautiful scenery, which falls 
into the Schuylkill about five miles above 
the city. It has a regular succession 
of mill-dams, which in the aggregate 
amount to about 700 feet. Its banks, 
for the most part, are elevated and pre- 
cipitous, covered with a dense forest, and 
diversified by moss-covered rocks of every 
variety. The banks of the beautiful 
Wissahickon afford one of the most de- 
lightful drives in the vicinity of Philadel- 
phia. The route is via Eidge Avenue to 
Laurel Hill, and thence via Wissahickon 
road. A charming trip may be made 
from Fairmount by steamer up the Schuyl- 
kill to Mount Pleasant, Laurel Hill, etc. 

The scenery along the shores of the 
Schuylkill Eiver is famous for its varied 
beauty. Few tourists behold its " sloping 
glens and silent shades " without admira- 
tion: 



PUILADELPHIA.] 



PENNSYLVAJSIA. 



[PUILADELPHIA. 



" Each scene delights — the breeze that roves 
In hollow murmurs through the groves, 
The sunlight dancing down the stream, 
Or darting through the trees with fainter 

gleam— 
These, and unnumbered charms alternate rise 
To walje sweet musing, and to feast the 

eyes." 

Excursion-boats every hour daily during 
the summer months. 

On leaving Fairmount an extensive 
view of the west front of the city is pre- 
sented, embracing the Gas-works, the 
Suspension Bridge, Penitentiary, and 
Girard College, and several handsome 
private mansions, aniong which are Soli- 
tude, Egglesfield, Sweet Brier, more fully 
noticed in our brief sketch of old Phila- 
delphia. 

Fountain Green, on the eastern bank, 
was until late years a rural spot of much 
beauty. Nearly opposite to this are seen 
the ruins of the Lansdowne Manor -Iwiine. 
This old relic, built by John Penn, and 
interesting as the headquarters of Gen- 
eral Washington during the War of In- 
dependence, was almost entirely destroy- 
ed by fire a few years ago. It is now in 
the hands of a laud company. A fine 
view is had from the site. The boats on 
the river call at Mount Pleasant landing, 
and afford opportunities for passengers to 
visit the neighborhood. 

The Sclmylkill Viaduct, three miles 
northwest from the city, is 980 feet in 
length, and is crossed by the Reading 
liailroad. 

Xorth of the Reading Bridge, on the west 
shore, stands an old cottage, said to have 
been the residence at one time of the poet 
Tom Moore. (See Moore's Cottage.) 
From the landing at Laurel Hill (four 
miles) that beautiful ground and the ad- 
joining cemeteries on Ridge Avenue are 
easily accessible. Ihe Falls of the Srhtyl- 
ktll (four miles) are seen to advantage from 
the boat. 

Manayunk, seven miles from the centre 
of the city, is a large manufacturing place. 
It is indebted for its existence to the water- 
power created by the improvement of 
the Schuylkill, which serves the double 
purpose of rendering the stream naviga- 
ble, and of supplying hydraulic power to 
the numerous factories of the village. It 
is readied by street cars on Ridge road, 
as well as by the boat on the river, and 



may best be visited in connection with the 
cemeteries, the falls on the Schuylkill, 
and the Wissahickon, which lie between 
Manayunk and the city on the same 
route. 

Germantoum, now included in the 
twenty-second ward 'of the city, was 
laid out in 1684, and consists mainly of 
one long street. It is sis miles north 
from Chestnut Street, and may be reach- 
ed every fifteen minutes by city railroad 
and steam cars. The street car route lies 
up Eighth Street and Germantown road, 
and terminating at Mount Airy. The 
battle of Germantown was fought October 
4, 11^1. Washington's headquarters, on 
Market Square, and Button Ball Tree 
Tavern, are still to be seen. Here are fine 
cricketing and base-ball grounds. Chew's 
House is a noteworthy object. Many 
handsome private residences are seen 
from the Germantown road. Nicetown, 
through which the street railway passes, 
is a pleasant rural village, inhabited main- 
ly by Germans and Swiss. 

Greenwich Point, about three miles 
below the city, and Gloucester Point, di- 
rectly opposite, are favorite places of 
resort through the summer season. Ferry 
from South Street, Philadelphia. 

Camden, New Jersey, opposite Phil- 
adelphia, is the termmus of the Cam- 
den and Amhoy, the Camden and Atlan- 
tic, and West Jersey (Cape May) Railways. 
It was incorporated in 1831, and is a 
place of considerable trade and manufac- 
ture, and has a population of nearly 
20,000. Four steam fei'ry lines connect 
it with Philadelphia. (See Feeries.) 

Red Bank, on the Jersey shore of the 
Delaware, five miles below Philadelphia, 
has some interesting historical associa- 
tions. Here (at Fort Mercer) a battle was 
fought, October 22, \111. The embank- 
ment and trenches of the fort are still 
seen. The house of Whitehall, the Tory 
Quaker, and Coxint Dojiop's grave, are 
both pointed out. Opposite Red Bank, 
on Great Mud Island, is Fort Mifflin. 
Lying between Forts Mercer and Mifiliu 
is League Island, the proposed site of the 
new Navy Yard. A marble monument, 
15 feet high, erected October 22, 1829, to 
commemorate the battle, stands within 
the northern line of the fort. 

Chestnut Hill affords a pleasant drive 
153 



PUILADELPHIA.] 



PExVNSYLVANIA. 



[PllILADELrniA. 



or ride. It is witliin tlie corporate limits, 
12 miles north of tlie State House, and 
can be reached )jy tlie Philadelphia, Ger- 
mantown, and Norrktown R. li. The 
Hospital, used for army purposes during 
the late war, is worth visiting. 

Wldtcmarsh is interesting as the scene 
of a skirmish following the battle of Ger- 
mantown, and as the headquarters of 
Washington. It is situated in a beauti- 
ful little valley north of Chestnut Hill, 14 
miles from Philadelphia, and 6 from Ger- 
mantown. 

Norristown, the county seat of Mont- 
gomery County, is on the left bank of the 
Schuylkill, 16 miles from Philadelphia. It 
is the seat of justice of Montgomery 
County, and contains a fine Court- House 
of marble, and prison buildings. The 
Schuylkill is here spanned by two bridges, 
which connect Norristown with Bridge- 
port. 

Westchester is a beautiful suburb of 
Philadelphia, finely situated on elevated 
ground, 22 miles west of the city. The 
Coicrt-House and 3filitary Academy are 
worthy of notice. Eeached by cars almost 
hourly, either on Westchester and Phila- 
delphia Railioay, via Media, or on the 
Central Raihvay, via Paoli. 

After visiting the more important pub- 
lic woi'ks and buildings of the city, and 
the objects and points of interest in its 
vicinity, a stroll in the Old District, or 
what was once " the city " of Philadel- 
phia, will well repay the stranger. Among 
the relics of the past still left undisturbed 
by the march of improvement, are the 
Pe}in Cottage, and the Slate-Roof House. 
The former of these is located in Letitia 
Street, which is not a street, but a nar- 
row, dingy court or lane, opening out from 
Market Street, between Pirst and Second. 
It is thought to have been the first brick 
building erected in Philadelphia, and was 
the residence of William Peun during his 
first visit to the city (1682-'83). Since 
then it has been successively occupied as 
a tavern, bakery, and cigar-store, and is 
now used as a lager-bier saloon and Gast- 
haus by Adam Best, whose sign-board, 
embellished with a foaming tankard,-^ sur- 
mounts its humble doorway. It is still in 
a good state of preservation, but is almost 
lost to view in the maze of buildings 
which surround it. 
154 



The Slate-Roof House, another inter- 
esting old landmark, is easily reached 
from the Cottage by crossing over Chest- 
nut Street. It is on the corner of Second 
and Gothic Street (Norris Alley), and 
immediately opposite the Old Bank of 
Pennsylvania. The year of its erection is 
uncertain. William Penn and his family 
occupied it in 1700. It was sold, to 
William Trent, the founder of New Jer- 
sey, in 1*703. In it John Penn, " the 
American," was born. There- Generals 
Forbes and Charles Lee died. It was also 
occupied at different times by Adams, 
Hancock, De Kalb, and other distin- 
guished men. Arnold also occupied it 
while military governor of the city in 
1*778. The building has been but little 
altered from what it originally was. The 
corner store (131 South Second Street) is 
now occupied by a dealer in gold and 
silver. The whole structure is to be I'e- 
moved, to make way for the new Corn 
Exchange. Soon not a relic of the early 
days of Pennstown will be left. On Third 
Street, between Willing's Alley and 
Spence Street, the Washington Hall oc- 
cupies the site of the old Bingham man- 
sion. Penn's country residence (palace) 
was at Pennsbury Manor, above Bristol. 
Here was the famous Hall of Audience. 

Carpenter''s Hall, south of Chestnut 
Street, below Fourth, should be visited. 
Here assembled the first Congress of the 
United Colonies. If is a plain brick 
building of two stories, surmounted by a 
cupola. . 

The Old London Coffce-House {1101), 
Zoxley^s House (home of Lydia Bar- 
rack), and the Indian Queen Hotel, where 
Jefferson resided, have long been torn 
down. 

HullsJieimer^s New House, where Jef- 
ferson permed the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, is still standing, at the south- 
west corner of Market and Sevenvh 
Streets. The chamber is frequently vis- 
ited, and should continue to be, as long 
as it stands. 

Solitude, once the country residence of 
John Penn, is on the west bank of the 
Schuylkill, and may be seen not far from 
the falls, by the visitor at Fairmount. It is 
built of lough-cut stone. Says a late 
writer: " This noted abode of the Penns 
is fiist losing its interest and beauty. A 



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E^ILADELPHIA.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Philadelphia.. 



few years more and it will, no doubt, be 
imong the things that were." Already 



" The shadows of departed hours 
Hang dim upon its lonely flowers; 
Even the sunshine seems to brood 
In sadness o'er the ruins of Solitude." 

The Lebanon. — All that remains of 
;hiri once famous resort may be seen at 
;he southwest corner of Tenth and Car- 
)enter Streets. 

The Grave of FranMin is worthy of 
lotlce. It is at the southeast corner of 
ircli and Fifth Streets. 

The Elm-Tree^ under which the famous 
reaty between Penn and the Indians was 
nade, was blown down in 1809. A 
ihair made from the wood is preserved in 
he collection of the Historical Library 
iVssociation. 

I Moore^s Cottage, an old white cottage 
juilding, which stands on the west bank 
if the Schuylkill, above the Reading 
Railroad bridge, and opposite Peter's 
island, is pointed out as having been 
jnce the residence of Tom Moore the 
oet, and the spot where he wrote his 
oem — 

Alone hy the Schuylkill a wanderer roved, 
And dear were the flowery banks to his eye," 

'his is traditionary, however, and is 
oubted by many early settlers and local 
istorians. It is known that Moore visit- 
i Philadelphia; but that he had any 
jxed abode, or even temporary residence 
1 this locality, is extremely doubtful. 

Penn's RocJc, a mile-stone, raised by 
v'illiam Penn, and bearing his coat-of- 
rms, is still standing on the road to 
'addington. On this rock, tradition says, 
Penn and his wife ate their dinners " 
hile the founder of the city was engaged 
I laying out the Haverford road. 

SBarta-am, the elegant country seat 
Andrew M. Eastwick, Esq., will well 

pay a visit. It is on the west banli of 
Schuylkill, in the immediate vicinity 

I<^ Eastwick Skating Park, and is 
fe^ached from Gray's Ferry road by 
' )y car-line. 
^Id Bartr-am mansion, which oc- 
le centre of the present grounds 
was built by John Bartram in 
It is in good preservation, and 



affords a fine specimen of the prevailing 
style of country-house architecture at 
that day. It is of stone, and occupies an 
eminence commanding an extended view 
of the Schuylkill, winding to its juncture 
with the Delaware at League Island. 
During the occupancy of Philadelphia by 
the British, the building was used as 
headquarters by some of the British 
officers, and thus escaped damage. It was 
a favorite resort of Washington, and was 
frequently visited by Jefferson, Frankliu, 
and other distinguished residents and 
frequenters of the city. Here resided 
William Bartram, son of the original 
proprietor, and distinguished as one of 
the leading botanists and writers on bot- 
any and ornithology in the country. 
Here, and in the adjoining garden, Alex- 
ander Wilson and Thomas Nuttall pur- 
sued many of their life-long scientific la- 
bors. NuttaWs chamber, in the mansion, 
is still pointed out. The Botanic Garden, 
adjoining, is the pride of Bartram. It 
was pronounced by the lamented Down- 
ing " the most interesting garden in Amer- 
ica to every lover of trees." In 1815 it 
came into the possession of late Colonel 
Robert Carr, who served in the war of 
1812, and in 1850 it was purchased by 
its present owner. 



MOTTTE I. 

PEILADELPEIA TO PITTSBURG AND 
THE WEST. 

{Via Pennsylva7iia Central RaUtcay.') 

Stations . — Philadelphia ; White- 
hall, 10 miles ; Paoli, 20; W^estchester 
Intersection, 22 ; Oakland, 29 ; Downing- 
ton, 33 ; Parkesburg, 44 ; Christian, 49 ; 
Gap, 52 ; Leaman Place, 58 ; Lancaster, 
69; Dillerville, '70; Landisville, 11; 
Mount Joy, 82 ; Columbia Branch Inter- 
section, 96 ; Harrisburg, 106 ; North Cen- 
tral Crossing, 113; Duncannon, 121; 
Millerstown, 139; Mifflin, 155; Lewiston, 
167 ; Mount Union, 192 ; Huntingdon, 
204 ; Petersburg, 210 ; Tyrone, 224 ; Al- 
toona, 238; Gallitzin, 250; Cressen, 253; 
Wilmore, 263 ; Conemaugh, 2'74 ; Nine- 
veh, 286 ; Lockport, 295 ; Blairsville In- 
tersection, 301; Latrobe, 314; Greens- 
burg, 324 ; Penn Station, 329 ; Manor, 
155 



Whitehall.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Lancastj 



331 ; Turtle Creek 342 ; Brinton's, 343 ; 
Pittsburg, 355. 

This fine line constitutes one of the 
great highways from the Atlantic to the 
Mississippi States. It extends 355 miles 
from the city of Philadelphia, through the 
entire length of Pennsylvania, to the Ohio 
River at Pittsburg, connecting there with 
routes for all parts of the Southwest, 
West, and Northwest. Through trains 
(15 hours to Pittsburg) run, morning, 
noon, and night. Philadelphia station, 
southeast comer of Thirtieth and Market 
Streets. 

IVliiteliall (10 miles). Near the 
station is Haverford College, belonging 
to an association of Friends. It is on 
the left of the road, surrounded by an ex- 
tensive lawn. Near by is the bii'thplace 
of Benjamin West. Villa Nova, a short 
distance farther on, is the seat of a Eo- 
man Catholic college. 

Paoli (20 miles), the scene of an action 
(September 20, ijl^) between the Amer- 
ican forces, under General Wayne, and a 
detachment of British troops, under Gray, 
better known as the PaoU massacre. A 
monument, erected September, 181Y, 
marks the spot. The scenery beyond 
Paoli, through the limestone valley of 
Chester County, is picturesque. Chester 
is famous for its highly-cultivated farms 
and extensive dairies. Two miles beyond 
Paoli the Westchester Railway intersects 
the main line. 

DoTvniJig'ton (33 miles), on the 
right of the line, is a pretty rural village, 
on the north branch of the Braudywine 
Creek. Chad's Ford, 15 miles distant, 
was the scene of the engagement known 
as the battle of Brandyicine. The Bir- 
mingham Friends'' Meetlng-hov.se, where 
the conflict raged hottest, is farther up 
the stream. The road crosses the west 
branch of the Brandywine, near Coates- 
ville (39 miles), on a bridge 850 feet long 
and '75 feet high. 

Parkeslmrg (44 miles), in Chester 
County, contains several large machine- 
shops, a hotel, and a population of 600. 

Passing Penningtonville, three miles 
beyond, we reach Christiana, the scene of 
a riot in 1851. Here the road leaves the 
Chester valley, which it has traversed its 
entire length of 20 miles, and enters the 
Pequea valley. The Gaj), through which 
156 



the railway passes. Is well worthy of ; 
tice. 

Hiancaster (69 miles) is prett 
situated near the Conestoga Creek, whici 
is crossed in entering the city. It was 
incorporated in 1818, was at onetime the 
principal inland town of Pennsylvania, 
and was the seat of the State Govern- 
ment from 1799 to 1812. In population 
(19,000) it now ranks as the fifth city in 
the State. It is pleasantly situated in the 
centre of a rich agricultural region, well 
built, and has many fine edifices, pubUc 
and private. The Court-Rouse is an im- 
posing edifice in the Grecian style of archi- 
tecture. Lancaster is the seat of Marshall 
College, organized in 1853, in union with 
the old establishment of Franklin Col- 
lege, which was foimded in 1787. Fulton 
Hall, an edifice for the use of pubUc as- 
semblies, is a noteworthy structure, as 
are some of the church edifices. The 
oldest turnpike road in the United States 
terminates here, 62 miles from Philadel- 
phia. One of the sources of prosperity 
of Lancaster is in the navigation of the 
Conestoga, in a series of nine locks and 
slack-water pools, 18 miles in length from 
the town of Safe Harbor on the Susque- 
hanna, at the mouth of the Conestoga 
Creek. With the help of Tidewater 
Canal to Port Deposit, a navigable com- 
munication is opened to Baltimore. The 
Ephrata Springs and the Moravian Vil- 
lage of Litiz are reached from Lancaster. 
The principal hotels are Michael's and 
the City. 

Wheatland, the seat of ex-President 
James Buchanan, is a few miles from 
Lancaster. 

From DillerviUe, one mile beyond Lan- 
caster, a branch line extends to Columbia. 

(See COLFMBIA.) 

]51iti<lletO'*vn. (97 miles), at the 
mouth of Swatara Creek, on the Susque- 
haiina River, nine miles east of Harris- 
burg, has a population of 2,500. The 
Union Canal terminates here. 

HarrislJiirg'. — Hotels — The Lo- 
c/ife/ (formerly Herr's), on Market Street, 
is the leading house; Boltori's (formerly 
the Beuhler House) is a commodious, 
well-kept house, on Market Square ; the 
Joiies House is also a centrally-located 
and well-ordered establishment. These 
houses are usually, indeed always, well 



i 



Harrisbttrg.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[DUNCANNON. 



filled during the sessions of the Legisla- 
tive Assembly, and strangers visiting 
Harrisburg at these times should order 
rooms in advance. 

Harrisburg,- the capital of Pennsylva- 
nia, is beautifully situated upon the east 
bank of the Susquehanna, 106 miles from 
Philadelphia, and 249 east of Pittsburg. 
It was laid out in 1785 by John Harris. 
Previous to that date it was known as 
Lewiston, and still earlier as Harris's 
Ferry. It was made a town in 1*791, and 
incorporated into a city, with six wards, 
March 19, 1860. 

The Statt-House occupies a picturesque 
and commanding position upon a natural 
eminence, a little north of the centre of 
tlio city ; and from its dome a fine view 
is obtained of the wide and winding 
river, its beautiful islands, its bridges, 
and the adjacent ranges of the Kitta- 
tinny Mountains. 

Adjoining the State-House, or capitol 
building, are two brick edifices, the one 
on the right being occupied as the Land, 
the other as the State Department. The 
Arsenal building stands south of the 
former edifice. Among the other promi- 
nent buildings are the Couri-House, 
and the Old and New School Presbyteri- 
an churches. The former is a handsome 
edifice of stone, fronting on the Capitol 
Square. The Court-House is a stately 
brick edifice, surmounted by a dome, and 
stands on Market Street, opposite the 
Lochiel House. Front Street is a hand- 
some, wide avenue, overlooking the Sus- 
quehanna, and affords the most attractive 
promenade in the city. Here are many of 
the finest residences in the city. Harris 
Park, at the intersection of Front Street 
and Washington Avenue, is usually visit- 
ed by strangers. Harris's grave and tree 
occupy the centre of the enclosure. Fa- 
cing it is the Harris mansion, now owned 
and occupied by Hon. Simon Cameron, 
ex-Secretary of War. The extensive roll- 
ing-mill and works of the Lochiel Iron 
Company, near the town, are worth visit- 
ing. 

From Harrisburg diverge the following 
railways : Cumberland Valley Railway to 
Carlisle (18 miles); Chambersburg (52 
miles), Hagerstown, Md. (74 miles). This 
road is replete with interest growing out 
of the rebel raids during the late war. 



From Newville, on this line, stages run 
to the Sulphur Springs. 

The Lehanon Valley Railway (branch 
of Philadelphia and Reading Railroad) 
to Lebanon (26 miles), and Reading (54 
miles), and the Northern Central Rail- 
ivay south to Baltimore, Md., and north 
to Elmira and Canandaigua, N. Y. Pas- 
sengers for Gettysburg can either take 
the Cumberland Valley line (52 miles) to 
Chambersburg, and thence by stage, or 
the Northern Cerdral to Hanover Junc- 
tion (39 miles), and thence by rail (30 
miles) to the battle-field. The latter is 
the most expeditious and generally trav- 
elled route. There is a detention of one 
hour at Hanover Junction on the morn- 
ing train from Harrisburg. Two days 
will suffice to make this trip comfortably. 
(See Gettysburg.) 

Leaving Harrisburg, and pursuing the 
main line westward, we cross the S«s- 
quehanna on a bridge 3,670 feet long. 
The view obtained of Bridgeport from 
the centre of the bridge is one of the 
finest on the line. The State Lunatic 
Asylum occupies a prominent locale 
on an eminence to the right. Two miles 
south of Bridgeport is New Cumberland, 
the residence of Governor Geary. The 
Cove Mountain and Peter'' s Mountain are 
seen near Cove Station, 10 miles west of 
Harrisburg. 

l>itucaisi£on (121 miles) is the 
point of departure for the Juniata valley. 
(See Juniata.) 

Our route now follows the banks of 
the Juniata for about 100 miles to the 
eastern base of the Alleghanies, the cana, 
keeping the road and river company most 
of the way. 

Ne^Tj^port (134 miles) is located at 
the confluence of the Little Bufl'alo Creek 
with the Juniata. Five miles farther on 
is Millerstown, near the confines of Perry 
County. The passage of the Juniata 
through the Great Tuscarora Mountain, 
one mile west of this station, is worthy 
of notice. 

From the point of Law's Ridge, along 
the face of which the line runs west of 
Perrysville, a fine view of Mifflin, the 
county town of Juniata, is to be obtained. 

Four miles west of MilHin the road 
enters the Long Narrows, and soon after 
reaches Lewistoivn, the outlet of the yul- 
157 



TnE Juniata.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Altooma. 



ley of Kishicoquillas, once the camping- 
ground of Logan, the Indian chief. 

IjCAvisto^vii (13 miles west of 
Miftlin) is the best point from which to 
visit the Juniata. The National Hotel 
has good accommodation. Diives and 
fisliing in the neighborhood. 

TTIie Juniata^. — This beautiful 
river, whose course is closely followed so 
many miles by the Pennsylvania Central 
Railroad and Canal, rises in the south 
central part of the Keystone State, and, 
flowing eastward, falls into the Susque- 
hanna about 14 miles above Harrisburg. 
The landscape of the Juniata is in the 
highest degree picturesque, and many 
romantic summer haunts will be found 
among its valleys ; though at present 
very little tarry is made in the region, 
from its attractions being little known, 
and the comforts of the traveller being 
as yet but inadequately provided for. 
The mountain background, as we look 
continually across the river from the cars, 
is often strikingly bold and beautiful. 
The Little Juniata, wbich with the Franks- 
town branch forms the main river, is a 
stream of wild, romantic beauty. The en- 
tire length of the Juniata, including its 
branches, is estimated at nearly 150 
miles, and its entire course is through a 
region of mountains in which iron ore is 
abundant, and of fertile limestone val- 
leys. The Raystown Branch, which rises 
in the southwest part of Bedford County, 
enters the Juniata near Huntingdon. 

Mount Union Station (192 miles) is at 
the entrance of the gap of Jack's Moun- 
tain. Three miles beyond is the famous 
Sidling Hill, and still west the Broad Top 
Mountain. The latter is reached by rail, 
26 miles from Huntingdon. 

Miaiiitiiag'tlOBB. (204 miles) — 
Exchange Hotel — is a place of some an- 
tiquity, having been laid out previous to 
the Eevolution. It was named after the 
Countess of Huntingdon. This is an- 
other good point from which to see the 
beauties of the Juniata. The Huntingdon 
and Broad Top Railway to Mount Dallas 
(44 miles) joins the main line here. From 
Mount Dallas to Bedford Springs by 
stage, sis miles. (See Bedford Springs.) 

At I"etersl> Ill's;, six miles west of 
Huntingdon, the railroad parts company 
with the canal, and follows the Little 
158 



Juniata, wbich it again leaves at Tyrone 
City. 

Tyrone City ( Ward House), at 
the mouth of Little Bald Eagle Creek, is 
famous for its manufactures of iron. The 
line here enters Tuckahoe Valley, noted 
for its iron ore. A branch (Bald Eagle) 
road extends 81 miles to Williamsport. 
The Tyrone and Clearfield branch also 
extends 24 miles to Phillipsburg. 

Altoona, 11*7 miles east of Pitts- 
burg, at the head of Tuckahoe valley, 
and at the foot of the Alleghanies, is im- 
portant to every traveller, as the best 
point at which to make a short stay, as 
well for refreshment as for observation. 
The Logan House has complete accommo- 
dation for 500 guests. The workshops 
of the railway company are worth visit- 
ing. In 1856 it contained but one log 
house. A branch road extends eight miles 
to Hollidaysburg, whence stages run to 
Bedford Springs, 2'7 miles. (See Bedford 
Springs.) 

At Altoona the western-bound traveller 
commences the ascentof the Alleghanies. 
In the course of the nest 11 miles some 
of the finest views and the greatest feats 
of engineering skill on the entire line are 
to be seen. Passing through the great 
tunnel, 3,670 feet long, we reach Gallitzin, 
named after Prince Gallitzin a noble Rus- 
sian, who settled at Rosetta, Cambria 
County, in 1*789, and shortly after com- 
mence the descent of the western slope 
of the mountain. Here the Conemaugh 
comes frequently in sight in its rapid 
coui'se to the Stony Creek at Johnstown. 

Passing Crfsson Station (see Ceesson 
Springs), less than an hour brings us to 
the stone viaduct over the Conemaugh at 
the Horseshoe Bend, and immediately be- 
yond to the Conemaugh Station, the 
western terminus of the mountain division 
of the road. 

«i'©liiistO"W'ii, three miles west of 
Conemaugh, commands some attractive 
scenery. The Cambria Iron-Works, seen 
to the right of the road, are among the 
most extensive in the country. We are 
now nearing the point where we shall take 
leave of the Conemaugh, after following 
its course fifty miles from the slope of 
the Alleghanies. 

One mile east of Blairsville Inf.ersedian 
is a cutting in the Fack-Saddle Ilountain 



M 



iPlTTSBUEG.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Pittsburg. 



worthy the tourist's attention. From 
(.his point a branch road leads northward 
io Blairsville, three miles, and Indiana, 
19 miles. 

Greensburg, 324 miles from Philadel- 
phia and 31 trom Pittsburf^, is the county 
leat of Westmoreland County, and a 
ihriving trading-point. Lines, of stages 
onnect it with neighboring towns in 
iPeonsylvania and Maryland. In the yard 
)f the Presbyterian church, seen as you 
inter the town, is a monument to Major- 
tJeneral Arthur St. Clair, a British officer 
Uncharge of Fort Legonier at the close of 
|he French War. 

Penn Station and Manor, a short dis- 
;ance west of Greensburg, are interesting 
IS having formed part of the Penn estate. 

Twelve miles from Pittsburg the road 
irosses Turtle Creek, at a place called 
^rintoii's. Here the Connellsville branch 
oins the main line. BraddocJc's Field, 
the battle-ground on which General Brad- 
lock was defeated by the French and 
Indians (July 9, 1755), is in the neighbor- 
lood, nine miles from Pittsburg. The 
5oint where Braddock's army crossed 
,he river in their march on Fort Du 
buesne is seen to the left of the line west 
)f Brinton's. East Liberty, five miles from 
Pittsburg, is a thriving suburb, contain- 
ng some fine residences, and affording a 
ielightful drive to and from the city. 
The capacious edifice of the Western 
Fennsylva7iia Hospital, erected in 1860, 
it Dixmount, is seen in approaching the 
!ity on the Pittsburg^ Port Wayne and 
Ohicago Railroad. 

I"ittsl>iirg'. — Hotels, the Monon- 
\]aliela House, Union Pepot Hotel, Si. 
Qharles, and 3Ier chants^ Hotel. 

Pittsburg is upon the Ohio Eiver, at 
the confluence of the Alleghany and the 
lllonongahela. It is situated in a district 
!xtremely rich in mineral wealth, and the 
mterprise of the people has been directed 
;o the development of its resources, with 
m energy and success seldom paralleled. 
The city of Pittsburg also enjoys, from its 
situation, admirable commercial facilities, 
md has become the centre of an exten- 
sive commerce with the Western States ; 
ivhile its vicinity to inexhaustible iron 
ind coal mines has raised it to great 
ind merited distinction as a manufac- 
iuring place. The revenue tax paid on 



the manufactures of Pittsburg for the 
year ending June 30, 1866, amounted to 
$2,480,310, representing a capital of up- 
ward of Itvo Ivwndred millions of dollars. 

The city was laid out in 1765, on the site 
of Fort Du Quesne, subsequently changed 
to Fort Pitt, in honor of England's prime 
minister, William Pitt. The city charter 
was granted in 1816. Pittsburg is con- 
nected with the left bank of the Monon- 
gahela by a bridge 1,600 feet long, which 
was erected at a cost of $102,000. Four 
excellent bridges cross the Alleghany 
River, connecting Pittsburg with Alle- 
ghany City. It is usual to speak of exten- 
sive manufactories as being in Pittsburg, 
though they are not within the limits ot 
the city proper, but are distributed over a 
circle of five miles' radius from the Court- 
House on Grant's Hill. This space in- 
cludes the cities of Pittsburg and Al- 
leghany, the boroughs of Birmingham and 
Lawrenceville, and a number of towns 
and villages, the manufacturing establish- 
ments in which have their warehouses 
in Pittsburg, and may consequently be 
deemed, from the close connection of their 
general interests and business operations, 
a part of the city. The stranger in Pitts- 
burg will derive both pleasure and in- 
struction by a visit to some of its great 
manufacturing establishments, particu- 
larly those of glass and iron. The city 
proper has a population of 65,000, and 
including its suburban towns, which are 
now (1867) incorporated with it, the 
number will fall little short of 180,000. 
The city is divided into ten wards, and 
contains 160 streets and upward of 
100 courts and alleys. It contains 136 
church edifices, among which are several 
of large size, surmounted by lofty spires. 
The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. 
Paul, at the corner of Fifth and Grant 
Streets, is an imposing edifice of brick, 
with a fine tower. The First Baptist 
Church, recently finished, is also a hand- 
some structure. The Court-House, facing 
the cathedral, is a solid stone edifice, 
surmounted by a dome. The Custom- 
Hoitse and Post-office is a commodious 
stone building, and there are several 
large and substantial public school- 
houses. But the iron-rolling mills, oil- 
refineries, and other extensive manufac- 
tories in the vicinity, constitute the 
159 



Pittsburg.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Valley Forge. 



absorbing interest and most character- 
istic feature of the town. In the vicmity 
of the city proper there are four ceme- 
teries. They are named and located as 
follows, viz. : Allegham/ Cemetery^ adjoin- 
ing Lawrenceville ; St. Mary's Cemetery, 
on Greensburg Pilie ; Hilldcde Ceme'.ery, 
adjoining Alleghany City ; and Mount 
Union Cemetery, adjoining Manchester, 
in McClure township. Lewis Street cars 
connect the city proper with all objects 
worth visiting in the suburbs. Pittsburg 
has direct railway communication with 
the principal cities east and west by 
means of the Pennsylvania Central : 
Pittdiurg, Columbus, and Cincinnati ; 
Pittsburg, Fort Wayne, and Chicago Rail- 
zcays, and with Lake Erie by the Pttts- 
burg and Cleveland road. The Alle- 
ghany Valley Railway to Kittanning (44 
miles); and Mahoning (55 miles), and the 
Pittsburg and Co7inellsville Railway to 
Connellsville (57 miles), and to Union- 
town ('72 miles), also diverge here. Boats 
daily up and down the Ohio River during 
the season of navigation. There are sev- 
eral places in the vicinity of Pittsburg 
which, as they may be considered parts of 
one great mauufactui'ing and commercial 
city, are entitled to notice here. Alleghany 
city, opposite to Pittsburg, on the west 
side of the Alleghany River, is the most 
important of them. The elegant resi- 
dences of many persons doing business 
in Pittsburg may be seen here, occupy- 
ing commanding situations. It contains 
111 streets and 41 courts and alleys. 
Here is located the Western Theological 
Sejninary of the Presbyterian Church, an 
institution founded by the General As- 
sembly in 1825, and established in this 
town in 182*7. Situated on a lofty, insu- 
lated ridge. 100 feet above the Alleghany, 
it affords a magnificent prospect. The 
Theological Seminary of the Associated 
Reformed Church, established in 1826, 
and the Alleghany Theological Institute, 
organized in 1840 by the Synod of the 
Reformed Presbyterian Church, are also 
located here. The Western Penitentiary 
is an immense building, in the ancient 
Norman style, situated on a plain on the 
western border of Alleghany City. It was 
completed in 182*7, at a cost of $183,000. 
The United States Arsenal is located at 
Lawrenceville, a small but pretty village 
160 



two and a half miles above Pittsburg, on 
the left bank of the Alleghany River. 

Birmingham is another considerable 
suburb of Pittsburg, lying about a mile 
from the centre of the city, on the south 
side of the Monongahela, and connected 
with Pittsburg by a bridge, 1,500 feet 
long, and by a ferry. It has important 
manufactories of glass and iron. 

Manchester is two miles below Pitts- 
burg, on the Ohio. Here is located the 
House of Refuge, incorporated in 1850. 
The Passio7iist Monastery is near here. 
The United States Marine Hospital is yet 
below. 



ROUTE II. 

PHILADELPHIA TO BEADING, IIAR- 
BISBURG, AND POTTSVILLE. 

( Via Philadelphia and Reading Bailway.) 

Passenger Station. — Broad, corner of 
Callowhill Street. 

This road runs through the valley of 
the Schuylkill, a distance of 58 miles to 
Reading, and thence 35 miles to Potts- 
ville, and connects the great anthracite 
coal-fields with tidewater. (See Reading.) 
It was opened in 1842, and has cost up- 
ward of $16,000,000. It has several tun- 
nels and numerous fine bridges. 

Stations. — Manayunk, 8 miles ; Con- 
shohocken, 14; Norristown, 1*7; Port 
Kennedy, 22 ; Valley Forge, 24 ; Phoenix- 
ville, 28 ; Rover's Bridge, 32 ; Pottstown, 
40 ; Douglasville, 45 ; Reading, 58 ; 
Leesport, 66 ; Mohrsville, 69 ; Hamburg, 
75 ; Port Clinton, 78 ; Auburn, 83 ; Or- 
wigsburg, 86 ; Schuylkill Haven, 89 ; 
Pottsville, 93. 

In leaving the city by this line, the 
fine stone bridge over the Schuylkill is 
crossed in full view of Laurel Hill and 
other objects of .interest already noticed 
in our sketches of the vicinity of Phila- 
deli^hia. 

Valley Forge (23 miles) is memorable 
as the headquarters of General Washing- 
ton during the winter of 1777. The 
building he occupied is still standing nearj 
the railroad, whence it can be seen. 

Pottdown (40 miles) is prettily situate^ 
on the left bank of the SchuylkiU. It wa 
incorporated in 1815, and has a popul^^ 



OTTSTILLE.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[The Susquehanna. 



lion of 3,000. The houses, which are 

l)uilt principally upon one broad street, 

ire surrounded by fine gardens and ele- 

;ant shade-trees. The scenery of the 

Surrounding hills is very fine, especially in 

Ihe fall of the year, when the foliage is 

|inged with a variety of rich autumnal 

Juts. The Heading Railroad passes 

rough one of its streets, and crosses 

e Mauatawny on a lattice bridge, 1,071 

et in length. 

Kead.iiig', the third city of the 
tate in population and commerce, is 
leasantly situated on a plain which 
i^es on the east bank of the Schuylkill, 
8 miles by rail from Philadelphia. It 
as laid out by Thomas and Richard 
'eim in 1V48, and was incorporated in 
i84'7. It is compactly built, and contains 
ome handsome public buildings, among 
•inch the Courl-House is the most promi- 
ent. Its present population is 25,000. 
he road hence to Harrisburg (54 miles) 
I known as the Lebanon Valley Ttaihoay. 
eading has connection eastward, via A\- 
;nton and Easton {East Pe^insylvania 
taiboay) with Central and Northern New 
'ersey and New York. The Meading 
hd Cohmihia Eailway (46 miles long) 
ins through the rich farming region of 
erks and Lancaster, past Ephrata and 
itiz Springs. 

Port Clinlon^ 78 miles from Philadel- 
lia, on the Reading Railroad, is a pleas- 
it place, at the mouth of the Little 
;huylkill. This is the point of junction 
ith the Little Schuylkill and Catawissa 
lads. 

Auburn (83 miles), via Tamaqua (20 
iles) to Williamsport (120 miles) 
Schuylkill Haven (89 milts ), on the 
inks of the Schuylkill, is m the midst of 
vevj interesting landscape region. The 
me Hill branch road (distance 24 mites) 
Ifmes in here from the great coal dis- 
jict. 

I IPotf svllle, the terminus of the 
liiladelphia and Reading route, is 93 
•iles from Philadelphia. It is upon the 
;:ge of the great coal basin, in the gap 
'r which the Schuylkill breaks through 
iiarp's Mountain. The yield of the 
|:huylkill coal-field in 1863 was up- 
!ird" of 33,000,000 tons. This enor- 
ious product annually reaches market 
ifough the Reading and Schuylkill Navi- 



gation Companies' lines. The city, com- 
menced in 1825, has already a population 
of 12,000. The Cathedral and Town Hall 
are worthy of notice. At Pottsville we 
complete the detour northward into the 
coal region from the main line of travel 
over this road, and now return to Read- 
ing on our route to Harrisburg. 

THE SUSQUEHANNA AND ITS VICIN- 
AGE. 

The Susquehanna is the largest and 
most beautiful of the rivers of Penn- 
sylvania, traversing as it does its entire 
breadth from north to south, and in 
its most interesting and most important 
regions. It lies about midway between 
the centre and the eastern boundary 
of the State, and flo-v^^s in a zigzag course, 
now southeast and now southwest, and 
so on over anc' oper, following very much 
the windings of the Delaware, which 
separates the State from New Jersey. 
The Pennsyhania Canal accompanies it 
throughout its course from Wyoming on 
the north to the Chesapeake Bay on 
the south. All the great railroads inter- 
sect or approach its waters at some point 
or other, and the richest coal-lands of the 
State lie contiguous to its banks. The 
Susquehanna, in its main branch, rises in 
Otsego Lake, in the east central part of 
New York, and pursues a very tortuous 
but generally southwest course. This 
main, or North, or East Branch, as it ia 
severally called, when it reaches the cen- 
tral part of Pennsylvania — after a course 
of 250 miles — is joined at Northumber- 
land by the West Branch, 200 miles long, 
which flows from the declivities of the 
Alleghanies. The course of this arm of 
the river is nearly eastward, and, like the 
North Branch, through a country abound- 
ing with coal and other valuable products. 
It is also followed by a canal for more 
than a hundred miles up. The route of 
the Wew York and Erie Railway is upon 
or near the banks of the north branch of 
the Susquehanna in southern New York, 
and occasionally across the Pennsylvania 
line for 50 miles, first touching the river 
near the Cascade Bridge, nearly 200 miles 
from New York, passing the cities of 
Binghamton and Owego, and finally los- 
ing sight of it just beyond Barton, 250 
miles from the metropolis. 

161 



Northumberland.] 



PENxWSYLVANIA. 



[ERii 



Lebanon, 86 miles from Philadelphia 
and 26 miles east of Harrisburg, is 
pleasantly situated in a fertile limestone 
valley, and is a place of considerable 
manufacture. A branch road to the Corn- 
wall ore banks intersects the main line 
here. 

Muri-islisirg- (see Route I.) Con- 
nection is made at Harrisburg northward 
with the PldladelpMa and Erie Railroad, 
which affords the most direct route to 
Erie and the great lakes. 



ROUTE III. 

PniLADELPHIA TO WILLIAMSPOBT, 
ERIE, AND THE OIL REGIONS. 

( Yia PJiiladelpMa and Erie Railway.) 

Stations. — Sunbury, 163 miles from 
Philadelphia; Catawissa Junction, 175; 
Milton, 176; Williamsport, 203; Lock 
Haven, 228 ; Renovo, 255 ; St. Mary's, 
323 ; Sheffield, 371 ; Warren, 385 ; Corry, 
413; Erie, 451. 

Sunbunj is a pleasantly located town 
on the east bank of the Susquehanna, 56 
miles north of Harrisburg. (See Susque- 
hanna.) 

IVortliMnaljerlaaail. — The west 
branch of the Susquehanna unites two 
miles above Sunbury with the main or 
north arm ; and the village, the pleasant- 
est of all the region round, is built upon 
the point formed by the confluence of the 
two waters. The quiet, cultivated air of 
Northumberland, and its excellent hotel 
{Ceni7-al) w'lW attract the not over-hurried 
traveller. 

A pleasant detour may be made from 
this point over the Lackawamia and 
Bloomshurg Railway to the Wyoming 
valley. (See Wilkesbarre.) 

Cata-^vissa is on this line, 20 miles 
from Northumberland. It is connected 
also by railway with the coal district of 
Mauch Chunk.. The scenery of this vicin- 
ity is of great variety and beauty. From 
the hill-tops — for Catawissa is encom- 
passed by picturesque hills — remarkable 
pictures of the winding of the river, and 
its ever-present companion, the canal, are 
to be seen ; now at the base of grand 



mural precipices, and anon through little 
verdant intervales. The Susquehanna is a 
well-kept house. 

"^VilliaiMspoi-t (203 miles) 
is the principal town upon the west 
branch of the Susquehanna River. It 
is the capital of Lycoming County, 
and contains some fine buildings, h 
is a pleasant place, dehghtfully situated, 
and much in vogue as a summer re- 
sort. The west branch canal passes here; 
and here, too, the railway routes from 
Philadelphia and from Niagara Falls (yia 
Elmira, N. Y.) meet. The river land- 
scape betweenWilliamsport and Northum- 
berland presents in its long extent many 
charming passages. Population, 11,000. 

Lock Haven, the capital of Clinton 
County, is at the mouth of Bald Eagle 
Creek, 121 miles north of Harrisburg. 

Irvinelon (300 miles). Branch road, \ 
via Tionesta and Oleopolis to Oil City, 
the centre of the great oil region of 
Pennsylvania. 

Corry (413 miles from Philadelphia, 
and 37 miles southeast of Erie) is im- < 
portant to the traveller mainly as being < 
the point of departure on this line for the 
oil region. Meadville is distant 38 miles. 
(See Atlantic and Great Western Rail- 
road.) Titnsville is 27 miles, and Shaf- 
fer, the terminus of the Oil Creek Rail- 
wai/, 34 miles distant. Beyond Titusville 
connection is made with the Farmers' 
Railroad to Petroleum Centre and Oil 
City, the terminus of the Franklin branch 
of the Atlantic and Great Western Rail- 
way. It has a population of 4,000, and 
is growing rapidly. Hotel, th e Empire 
House. 

Erie, the northern terminus of the 
route from Philadelphia, is advantageous- 
ly situated on Lake Erie, 451 miles from 
Philadelphia, and 90 miles southwest of 
Buffalo. The harbor, one of the best on 
the lake, is 3|^ miles long and over one 
mile wide. 

Presque Isle, opposite the town, is four 
miles long and one mile wide. The city 
contains a Coiirt-House, a good hotel, 1, 
and several handsome church edifices. 
The Erie and Pittsburg Raihvay connects :, 
it with Pittsburg, 148 miles. It was in- 
corporated in 1805. Population, 11,500. 



102 



Oil Creek.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Petkolkdm. 



THE OIL BEQIOK 



The oil region of Pennsylvania is well 
worthy a visit from the traveller, illus- 
trating as it does one of the most impor- 
tant as well as unique industrial features 
of the Keystone State. The most cele- 
brated oil-wells, as yet discovered and 
opei'ated on the American continent, are 
located in the western part of Pennsyl- 
vania, principally in Venango, Crawford, 
and Warren Counties. The wells next of 
note are found in Western Virginia and 
Eastern Ohio ; while others yet more re- 
I cently opened in the States of New Toi'k, 
i Kentucky, Tennesse?, and Michigan, and 
in Upper Canada, are now attracting at- 
tention. 

OiWreel; which has become celebrated 
as the site of the richest oil-producing 
region of the continent at the present day, 
is a tortuoiis mountain-stream, taking its 
rise in the northern part of the State of 
Pennsylvania, near the south line of Erie 
County, and, with its tributaries, waters 
Crawford and Warren Counties, and after 
a course of about thirty miles through 
these counties, empties into the Alle- 
;hany River, seven miles above the town 
of Franklin. The valley through which 
Oil Creek takes its course is narrow, and 
flanked on each side by high and rugged 
hills, on the top of which are broad fields 
of excellent farming land. The scenery 
on Oil Creek at one time, no doubt, was 
quite picturesque ; but now the bottom- 
lands are dotted with tall derricks, wood- 
en engine-houses, and iron smoke-stacks, 
tout of wh'ch columns of black smoke 
iroll upward to the clouds. The pines 
and hemlock are cleared from the moun- 
]tain-sides, and all is busy life. 

Petroleum, under the name of " Seneca 
pil " — so called from the tribe of Indians 
of that name who once inhabited the 
.country — became early of great im.por- 
tance to the settlers, both as a medicine 
and for burning and lubricating pur- 
poses. The greater portion of the oil M'as 
obtained fi-om two natural springs. One 
lof these was in the immediate neighbor- 
■[hood of Titusville, on the lands now 
bwned by the " Watson Petroleum Com- 
Ipany " of New York, on the spot where 
|qow stands the old " Drake Well." The 
Jtlier spring was on the farm of Hamilton 



McClintock, within four miles of the mouth 
of Oil Creek. During the year 1853, Dr. 
F. B. Brewer, of the firm of Brewer, 
Watson, & Co., conceived the idea ot 
collecting surface-oil by means of absorb- 
ing it in blankets, and wringing the oil 
out. Great quantities were collected in 
this novel manner, and used for burning 
purposes in the lumber-mills of the Oil 
Creek region. The a.\ produced from 
the oil springs became so necessary and 
useful as to suggest the formation of an 
oil company, in 1854, called the "Penn- 
sylvania Kock-Oil Company." This was 
the first oil company ever formed. This 
was prior to the sinking of any well, or 
before such a thing was suggested. Al- 
though Professor Sillinnan, of New Haven, 
had in 1854 analyzed the rock-oil, and 
pronoimced upon its properties, no fur- 
ther developments of any importance 
took place until the winter of 1857, 
when Colonel E. L. Drake, of Connecticut, 
arrived at Titusville. He was the first 
man who attempted to bore for oil. He 
was obliged to go 50 miles to a machine- 
shop every- time his tools needed repair- 
ing ; but after many delays and accidents, 
on the 29th day of August, 1859, at the 
depth of 69 feet 6 inches, he struck a 
vein of oil, from which he afterward 
pumped at the rate of 85 to 40 barrels 
per day. This is now known as the 
"Drake Well." It was the first well 
ever sunk for oil, and yielded the first 
petroleum ever obtained by boring. One 
experiment followed another in rapid suc- 
cession, until the different farms on Oil 
Creek became centres for oil operations. 
The Barnsdell, Mead, Rouse, and Crosley 
wells were opened in 1860. In 1861 nu- 
merous wells were sunk in the since fa- 
mous localities known as the "Mclll- 
heny," "McClintock," " Tarr," and 
" Buchanan " farms. The Empire and 
the Sherman Wells were ojiened in 1862, 
and the Delameter Well in the following 
year. Perhaps the only adequate idea of 
the extent of the oil operations in the 
Venango County region is to be obtained 
from the amount produced and shipped 
thence. The exports from the oil region 
have been as follows: In 1861,27,812 
barrels; in 1862, 168,000 barrels ; 1863, 
706,267 barrels ; 1864,776,205 barrels; 
and in 1865, from January 1st to Novem- 
163 



Meadtille.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Oil CiTv. 



bei- 11th, 543,019 barrels, or a total of 
nearly 2,250,000 barrels in five years. 
Three-fourths of this large yield have been 
transported over the line of the Atlantic 
and Great Western Mailwai/, which was 
completed into the oil region in 1863. 

Routes. — The railway routes leading 
from the Atlantic seaboard to the oil re- 
gion are the Fldladelphia and Erie Rail- 
way, from Philadelphia via Harrisburg to 
Corry (413 miles), and the Atlantic and 
Great Western Railway, from New York 
via Salamanca (414 miles) to Corry (475 
miles) and Meadville (517 miles). From 
Cincinnati the route is by the Atlantic 
and Great Western to the same points ; 
and from Pittsburg a road is now partial- 
ly completed, which will greatly shorten 
the distance from that city. 

Meadville, on the Atlantic and 
Great Western Railway, 103 miles west 
of Salamanca, and 517 miles from New 
York, is a flourishing city, and the centre 
of a large trade with the oil region. It 
is one of the oldest towns west of the 
AUeghanies. It lies on the west bank of 
French Creek, at one time called Venango 
River. It is the seat of Alleghany Col- 
lege, founded in 1816, and of the Western 
Theological Seminary, founded in 1844. 
Among the more .prominent edifices are 
several churches, a State arsenal, and an 
academy. The FranTcUn and Oil City 
Branch road to Reno and Oil City, 36 
miles, comes in here. The McHenry 
House is the leading hotel, and is well kept. 

From Meadville, where close connec- 
tions are made with the through express 
trains on the main line, passengers to the 
oil region will reach Franklin in an hour 
and a half. The road lies down the east 
bank of French Creek. 

I'^E'SiiiSilin. (28 niiles), the county 
seat of Venango County, occupies the site 
of Fort Fraiiklin, at the confluence of 
French Creek with the Alleghany River. 
The town was laid out in 1795, and is 
substantially built on "high land. Popu- 
lation nearly 6,000. The Exchange is the 
principal hotel. 

^L^n.& (33 miles), on the Alleghany 
River, has obtained great prominence in 
connection with the oil business of this 
region. Here large quantities of oil are 
received, and shipped by river and rail. 
The view of the river at this point pre- 
164 



sents a characteristic phase of life in the 
oil region. The trains usually stop long 
enough to aiford a good view of the town 
and river from the train. 

©11 City (36 miles), the centre and 
chief city of the oil region, is on the Al- 
leghany River, at the terminus of the 
Franklin branch of the Atlantic and Great 
Western Raihca;/, 56 miles from Warren,' 
3n the Philadelphia and Erie Railway. 
Oil Creek, which here enters the Allegha- 
ny, and is spanned by a bridge, will af- 
ford the visitor, in a few short rambles, 
perhaps the best opportunity of witnessing 
the varied operations of obtaining, refin- 
ing, barrelling, shipping, and generally 
manipulating the precious petroleum. It 
is not perhaps the most attractive place 
to pursue his researches — being a sort of 
epitomized edition of Virginia City, Pitts- 
burg, and New Bedford in one volume — 
but he must not be discouraged at the 
smoky, oily aspect and odor of every 
thing and everybody about him, but start 
on his search for the curious with the 
ardor of a true petroleumite, and with a 
stomach well fortified from the best hotel 
the " city " affords (the Jones House), and 
he will see much to interest, instruct, and 
may be to astonish him. 

Oil Creek, so called, is as old as the In- 
dian traditions extend, and dei'ives its 
name from a spring from which large 
quantities of bituminous oil were obtained 
— the Indians valuing it highly. It is 
now claimed that whea, by treaty, the 
Seneca nation sold the western part of 
the State, they made a reservation around 
this spring of one mile square. For 
about a mile above Oil City, on the light- 
hand side of the stream, the bank rises 
in an abrupt bluff, at the foot of which a 
very substantial road has been construct- 
ed. The city is built on the flats that 
run along the base of the high bluffs, and 
has but one street. Directly across the 
creek, on Cottage Ilill, have been erectc<l 
fine cottages. Population 10,000. The 
Pithole and Oil City Railroad is now com- 
pleted, and connects with the Atlantic 
and Great Western Road at this point. 
From Pithole eastward it connects, via 
Oleopolis, Tideoute, and Irvineton, with 
the Philadelphia and Erie Railway, un- 
der the name of the Warren and Frank- 
lin Railipay. (SeeWAEREN.) 



iriTUSVILLE.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Bethlehem. 



, I After seeing all that can be seen in and 
jiround Oil City, the traveller may either 
Droeeed to Pithole or continue by a short 
ine, known as the Farmers'' Railroad, 
'hi McClintock, Eouseville, Rynd, Tarr, 
nid Storey Farms, to Petroleum Centre. 
The latter place is a flourishing young 
own on Oil Creek, eight miles north of 
3il City, and a point of considerable and 
lincreasing importance. The wells in the 
Vicinity are very numerous, and many of 
hem worth visiting. From Petroleum 
I'entre the railway is continued up the 
vest bank of Oil Creek, through the oil- 
Kies at Funkville, Foster's, Shaffer, and 
Miller, to Titusville. From Rouseville a 
jranoh road extends to Humboldt. 

I'itMSville, 28 miles east of Mead- 
.'ille, and 27 miles south of Corry, by the 
3ii Creek road, is in Crawford County, 
t is one of the most important towns in 
he oil region, and contains three banks 
md several churches and hotels. Of 
he last-named institutions, the Criiten- 
hn and £2ish are the best.' This is 
mother good point from which to visit 
ho oil wells and refineries which abound 
on the creek, both above and below the 
own. Population (estimated), 10,000. 
riionville and Spartansburg are stations 
)n the Oil Creek Railway, between Titus- 
illo and Corry. The entire length of 
ailway in the oil region over which our 
cute has lain, connecting Meadville with 
jovry, is 80 miles. 

Coiry, the northern terminus of the 
3il Creek liailway, is situated at the in- 
ersection of the Philadelphia and Erie 
■ Railway with the Atlantic and Great 
Western Railway, '6^ miles southeast of 
•Irie, 21 miles west of Jame-stown, N. Y., 
snd 42 miles east of Meadville. It is an 
niportant point for forwarding oil and 
■cceiving merchandise and machinery for 
he oil regions. The Downer Oil Refin- 
h(j Wo7-ks, containing iron tanks which 
lold 10,000 barrels of oil, are worth 
ceing. In 1860 the site of Corry was a 
orest, not a house to be seen. Now there 
re three churches, a number of hotels, 
ud 4,000 inhabitants. The Empire is a 
;ooil house. 

"IVarreii is on Conewaugo Creek, 

,t its confluence with the Alleghany 

I liver, and on the Philadelphia and Erie 

] Railway, 385 miles from the former, and 



'?'. 



66 miles from the latter city. Route tq 
the Oil Regions, via Irvineton. Popula- 
tion (estimated), 2,500. 



ROUTE IV. 

PHIL A BE LP ETA TO BO YLESTO WN, 
BETHLEHEM, E ASTON, ALLEN TOWN, 
MA UCH CHUNK, ANB WHITE HA YEN. 

( Yia North Ptrmsylvania and Lehigh Valley 
Pailways.) 

Stations. — Fisher's Lane, 4 miles ; 
Green Lane, 5 ; Old York Road, V ; Fort 
Washington, 14 ; Wissahickon, 16 ; Gwyn- 
nedd, 18; North Wales, 20; Lansdale, 
22 ; Lower Lexington, 25 ; Doylestown, 
32 ; Hatfield, 25 ; Sellersville, 32 ; Quaker- 
town, 38 ; Coopersburg, 44 ; Centre Val- 
ley, 46 ; Hellertown, 50 ; Bethlehem, 54 ; 
Allentov/n, 17 from Easton ; Catasauqua, 
20; Hokendauqua, 21; Whitehall, 24; 
Lehighton, 42 ; Mauch Chunk, 46 ; Qua- 
kake Junction, 78 ; Delano, 77; Mahanoy 
City, 81 ; Shenandoah, 84 ; Centraha, 93 ; 
Mount Carmel, 97 ; Beaver Meadow, 66;' 
Jeans ville, 69 ; Eockport, 61 ; Hickory 
Run, 66 ; White Haven, 71. 

This furnishes the most speedy and 
pleasant route to Wilkesbarre, the Wyo- 
ming valley, and adjacent summer resorts. 
Leaving the depot, corner of Third and 
Thompson Streets, the road reaches the 
northern limits of the city, which it 
crosses one mile east of the Old York 
road. Passing Fort Washington and the 
Wissahickon (see Philadelphia and Vi- 
cinity), we reach the Welsh settlements 
of Penllyn and Gwynedd. The tunnel, 
near the latter place, is worthy of notice. 
It is one of the most extensive and costly 
works on the whole line. A single mile 
cost over $300,000. 

Landsdale (22 miles), in Montgomery 
County, has a good hotel. Branch 10 
miles to Doylestown, the county seat of 
Bucks county. Twelve miles beyond 
Landsdale we reach Landis Ridge, which 
divides the waters of the Schuylkill and 
Delaware Rivers. From the summit, one 
mile west of the station, a fine view of 
Limestone Valley and Quakertown is ob- 
tained. 

Hellertown (50 miles) has extensive 
iron and zinc mines occupying the sites 
165 



Easton.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[The Susquehanna. 



of the old Moravian farms. An extend- 
ed view of the hills skirting the Lehigh 
valley is obtained in this vicinity. Set- 
tled in 1856. Population, 6,000." 

15 e t la 1 e la e m, upon the Lehigh 
River, 54 miles from Philadelphia, and 87 
miles from New York, is a delightlul place 
to make a short stay en route. It is the 
principal seat of the United Brethren, or 
Moravians, in the United States, and was 
originally settled imder Count Zinzen- 
dorf in 1*741. The village contains a 
stone church, 142 feet long and 68 feet 
wide, and capable of seating 2,000 per- 
sons. It is famous for its schools and 
institutions of learning. The Moravian 
Boys' School stands near the church. It 
has also a Moravian Female Seminaru^ 
of high repute, founded in 1*788. Betlile- 
hem has several good hotels. The Sim^ 
established in 1808, is one of the best 
kept in the State, with ample accommo- 
dation for pleasure travel. 

South Bethlehem, on the opposite side 
of the river, is the seat of Leliigh Uni- 
,versity, handsomely. endov.'ed by Judge 
Packer. The buildings, now in course of 
ei'ection, occupy a commanding and at- 
tractive site, and when complete will add 
much to the appearance of the tov\Ti, 
The zinc works in South Bethlehem are 
worthy of a visit. Nazareih, another 
pretty Moravian village, is situated 10 
miles north from Bethlehem and 7 miles 
northwest from Easton. At Bethlehem 
the Leliigh Valley Mailway from Easton 
joins the North Pennsylvania Railroad, 
and continues on to White Haven. 

Eastosa, 66 miles from Philadelphia 
and 75 from New York, is finely situated 
at the confluence of the Lehigh Biver and 
the Bushkill Creek with the Delaware. 
A chain bridge, erected at a cost of 
$65,000, connects it with South Easton. 
It is the seat of Lafayette College, founded 
in 1832. The cemetery here will repay a 
visit. The town was laid out in 1738, 
and incorporated in 1789. Population, 
12,000. 

Allenlown (59 miles) is built on high 
ground, near the Lehigh Eiver, at the 
junction of Jordan and Little Lehigh 
Cieeks. The mineral springs here are 
highly prized by those who have tried the 
efiicacy of their waters. A visit to " Big 
Rock," 1,000 feet in elevation, a short 
166 



distance from the village, will amply re- 
pay the tourist. Connection is made with 
the Fust Pennsylvania Pailroad, 36 
miles to Beading. The American is tho 
leading hotel. Half an hour's ride from 
Allentowu brings us to the neighborhood 
of extensive slate quarries. An excellent 
quality of slate is here being vvoi'ked. A 
railroad to the mines is in process of 
construction from Bethlehem. 

Mauch Chunk is in the midst of the 
gi-eat Pennsylvania coal regions, 88 miles 
from Philadelphia and 100 miles from 
Harrisburg. It is upon the Lehigh, in one 
of its v/ildest and most romantic passages. 
The Mar^sion is the best hotel. Mount 
Piigah, a short distance north, rises 
1,000 feet above the river. A railway 
has been constructed, nine miles, to Sum- 
mil Hill, down which the coal-laden cars 
come by the force of their own gravity. 
We are here in the vicinage of the beau- 
tiful scenery of the Susquehanna River. 
The Eagle Hotel, at the summit, has fair 
accommodation for strangers. 

QuaJcaJce. — Branch road to Catawissa 
and Wilhan^sport. The ride up the Lehigh 
from Mauch Chunk is a very enjoyable 
one, combining many novel and sin- 
gular features. At White Haven the 
Beaver Meadow and Lehigh and Siisqve- 
hanna Railways intersect, and by the lat- 
ter the traveller will proceed on 20 miles 
to Wilkesbarre. 

The entire length of the Susquehanna 
is about 500 miles, and the couutry which 
it traverses is of every aspect, from tlie 
quiet vale or cultivated farm to the wild- 
est humors of the stern mountain pasi. 
The region most sought, and deservedly 
so, by the tourist in quest of landscape 
beauties, is that around and below the 
valley of Wyoming. From this point 
down many miles to Northumberland, 
where the West Branch comes in, the 
scenery is everywhere strikingly fine ; but 
the best and boldest mountain passes ex- 
tend from five to ten miles below the 
southern outlet of Wyoming, around 
Nanticoke and Shickshinney. This is the 
region par excellence for the study of the 
artist. Portions, also, of the West Branch 
— though not yet very much visited — 
are remarkably fine. Wilkesbarre is 
the best point from which to visit the 
diflerent sights of the Wyoming valley. 



i 



iViLKESBAERE.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Nanticoke. 



"t is on the Lackawanna and Bloomshurg 
Railway, 1*7 miles from ScrantonaBd 133 
.niles from Philadelphia by the inclined 
plane, and 148 by the new *' back track " 
■oute. 

' "W^yomimg Valley. — This ro- 
nantic valley, so replete with historic 
ssociation and classic interest, is situated 
long the Susquehanna River, in the 
lortheastern part of Pennsylvania. It is 
bout three miles wide and twenty-five 
ong, and is formed by two parallel 
anges of mountains, extending from the 
iiortheast to the southwest. The average 
leight of the eastern range is about 
,000 feet; that of the western about 
;00. The Susquehanna enters the valley 
Lrough Lackav:an7iock Gap, and after a 
erpcntine course of 20 miles leaves it 
h rough Nanticoke Gap. The Nanticoke 
uills are near that Gap. The valley 
bounds in romantic scenery and pleas- 
nt drives. Near its centre are the 
Vyoming Palls. Ancient fortifications 
re also frequently found. It is a classic 
pot, round which centres an interest as 
, ilbiding as it is melancholy. 
I I The route from New York is by the 
1 iew Jersey Central Railway to Hampton 
; |unction (59 miles) ; thence by the Bela- 
I are, Lackawanna, andWestern [%i rmlQs) 
I i) Scranton ; and thence by the Lackawan- 
a and Bloom&hirg Railway (1*7 miles) 
' ;i) Kingston, opposite Wilkesbarre, which 
1 the headquarters of the valley dis- 
■ict. 
The route from Philadelphia is by the 
^orth Pennsylvania Railway to Beth- 
hem, and thence by the Lehigh Valley 
ad Lehigh and Susquehanna Railways 
) Wilkesbarre. The Wyoming Valley 
^otcl is one of the best in the State, with 
iiple accommodation for 250 guests. 
"Williesljarrc. — The town, which 
reached by stage, one mile from the 
lilway depot, is regularly laid off in 
ide, well-shaded streets, with a public 
[uare and Court-House near the cen- 
e. It contains several handsome church 
iifices, and a population of about '7,000. 
mong its principal attractions for tour- 
ts are Prospect Reck, which commands 
Ifineview of the valley, Battle Monument, 
'arvcy^ s Lake, etc. 

I Thus sings Halleck of the Wyoming 
llUey: 



" Wten life was in its bud and blossoming. 
And waters gushing from the fountain 

spring 
Of pure enthusiast thought, dimmed my 

young eyes, 
As by the poet borne on unseen wing, 
I breathed in fancy 'neath thy cloudless 

skies 
The summer's air, and heard her echoed 

harmonies." 

The pen of Campbell and the pencil of 
Turner have taken their loftiest and most 
unbridled flights in praise of Wyoming, 
and though they have changed, they have 
not flattered its beauties. 

" Natm-e hath made thee lovelier than the 
power 
Even of Campbell's pen hath pictured." 

Again, Halleck says of the mythical 
Gertrude, the fair Spirit of Wyoming, 
and of the real maidens of the land : 

" But Gertrude, in her loveliness and bloom, 
Hath many a model here ; for woman's eye 
In court or cottage, whereso'er her homej 
Hath a heart- spell too holy and too high 
To be o'erpraised, even by her worshipjer — 
Poesy 1 " 

The terrible Battle of Wyoming, which 
has been so often the theme of the pencil 
and the pen, occurred July 3, 1*7*78. 
Few of the ill-fated people escaped. Pris- 
soners were grouped around large stones, 
and were murdered with the tomahawk, 
amid yells and incantations of fiendish tri- 
umph. One of these stones of inhuman 
sacrifice may yet be seen in the valley. It 
is called Queen Esther''s Rock, and lies 
near the old river bank, some three miles 
above Fort Forty. The village of Wilkes- 
barre was burned at this time, and its in- 
habitants were either killed, taken pris- 
oners, or scattered in the surrounding 
forests. 

The site of Fort Forty is across the 
river from Wilkesbarre, past the opposite 
village of Kingston, and nearly west of 
Troy, four miles and a half distant. At 
this spot, where the slain were buried, 
there now stands a monument commem- 
orative of the great disaster. It is an 
obelisk &2\ feet high, made of granite 
blocks hev/n in the neighborhood. The 
names of those who fell and of those who 
were in the battle and survived, are en- 
graved upon marble tablets set in tlie 
base of the monument. This praiseworthy 



COLDMBIA.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Carlisle. 



work was done by the exertions of the 
ladies of Wyoming. 

Ncmiicok-e and West Nanticoke are Ht- 
tle coal-villages at the southern extremity 
of the Wyoming valley, eight miles by 
rail from Wilkesbarre, where, as we have 
already intimated, occur some of the 
boldest passages of the scenery of the 
Susquehanna. A beautiful view of Wyo- 
ming is seen looking northward from the 
hills on the east side of the river near 
Nanticoke; and the scenes below, from 
the banks of the river and the canal, are 
most varied and delightful. The coal- 
mines of this neighborhood may easily be 
penetrated, and with ample remuneration 
for the venture. 

Jessup's is a very cosy, lone inn, upon 
the west shore, two or three miles below 
Nanticoke, from whence are seen striking 
pictures of the river and its bold moun- 
tain banks both above and below ; the 
hills in all this vicinity are impressively 
bold and lofty, making the comparatively 
narrow channel of the river seem yet nar- 
rower, and italicizing the quiet beauty of 
the many verdant islands which stud the 
waters here. 

Shickshinney and Wapwollopen are 
little places yet below, in the midst of a 
rugged hill and valley country. The 
Bank of Wapwollopen, on the east shore, 
is the barren peak of its namesake moun- 
tain. All the streams from Nanticoke 
down are adorned with cascades of great 
beauty, and abound in trout, and the 
river with salmon. 

ColuiiiLl>ia,. — The western terminus 
of the Philadelphia and Columbia Rail- 
way is on the left bank of the Susque- 
hanna, 28 miles below Harrisburg and 
1 2 miles west of Lancaster. A part of 
the town occupies the slope of a hill, 
which rises gently from the river, and 
the business part of the town lies along 
the level bank of the river. The scenery 
from the hills in the vicinity is highly 
pleasing. The broad river, studded with 
numerous islands and rocks, crossed by a 
long and splendid bridge, and bounded 
on evei-y side by lofty hills, makes a bril- 
liant display. A fine bridge, more than 
a mile in length, crosses the Susquehanna 
to Wrightsville. Population, 6,000. 

Yoi-li is teii miles southwest of the 
Susquehanna, upon the Codorus Creek, 
168 



28 miles south-southeast of Harrisburg, 
57 miles from Baltimore by the Northern 
and Central Railway, and 92 from Phila- 
delphia. With all these cities, and witlj 
yet other points, it is connected by rail- 
way. The Northern Central Roitioay 
unites at York with the Wiyhfsville, 
York and Columbia Railway. The Con- 
tinental Congress met here in 1777, dur- 
ing the occupation of Philadelphia by the 
British troops. The Court-House is an 
imposing granite edifice, built in 1842, at 
a cost of $150,000. The National Hotel 
has good accommodation for visitors. 
Population, 12,000. 

Carlisle is a beautiful and interest- 
ing town, with a population of 7,000, on 
the line of the Cumberland Vcdley Rail- 
way, 18 miles below Harrisburg and 125 
miles west of Philadelphia. It lies in the 
limestone valley country, between the 
Kittatinny and the South Mountains.. 
Dickinson College (Methodist), which is 
located in Carlisle, is one of the most 
venerable and esteemed institutions in 
Pennsylvania. It was founded in 1783. 
Carlisle is connected by the Cumberland 
Valley road with Harrisburg, on the one 
hand, and with Chambersburg and Hagers- 
town, in Maryland, on the other. General 
Washington's headquarters were here in 
1794, at the time of the Whiskey Eebel- 
lion. Some years before. Major Andre 
was a prisoner of war in Carlisle. It was 
shelled by the rebels during their inva- 
sion of the State (July, 1863). Carlisle 
/Sp7-ings, four miles north of the town, is 
a place of pleasant summer resort. 

The Sfeela^^-ai-e "M^atei* &»p. 
Hotel, — Killcdinny House. 

The bold passage of the Delaware 
Eiver, called the Water Gap, is easily 
and speedily reached from the cities and 
vicinage of New York and Philadelphia, 
and a pleasanter excursion for a day or 
two cannot be well made. The Dela- 
ware River rises on the western decliv- 
ity of the Kaatskill mountains, in two 
streams, which meet at the village of 
Hancock, a station on the New York 
and Ej-ie Railroad. At Port Jervis 
(see Erie Railroad), after journeying 
70 miles, it meets the Kittatinny or 
Shawangunk Mountain, and next breaks 
through the bold ridge at the Water 
Gap. At this great pass the clifls rise 



CRANTON.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Gettysbukg. 



erpendicularly from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, 
,nd the river rushes through the grand 
orge in magnificent stj'le. It afterward 
;rosses the South Mountain, not far be- 
|,)w Easton (from which point the Gap is 
generally approached) ; next falls over 
jhc primitive ledge at Trenton, N. J. ; 
'rows by and by into a large navigable 
ijver, skirts the wharves of the city of 
piiladelphia, and is lost 100 miles below, 
ih the Delaware Bay. The whole length 
jjf this fine river, from the mountains to 
jhe bay, is 300 miles. (See Rivers, p. 
1.39.) The Highland Dell House is a 
i|leasant summer resort, two miles from 
ftroudsburg Station, and three from the 
¥ater Gap. 

Sci*a,ittoiiL. — Hotel, Wyoming. — 
Icranton is an important manufacturing 
nd commercial town on the south bank 
f the Lackav/anna lliver. It is the point 
f junction between the Lackawanna and 
3loomsburgf and Delaware, Dackawanna, 
nd Western Railivays, which afford direct 
ommunication with points east and west. 
Population, 15,000. 

Kingston, 1*7 miles west, is the point 
|f departure for Wilkesbarre and the 
tVyomiug valley. 

1 Claaia.'bea-s'feiirg' is pleasantly 
ituated on the Cumherland Valley Rail- 
way, 52 miles south of Harrisburg, sur- 
Jounded by a highly cultivated country, 
jorming part of the limestone valley 
yhich extends along the south base of the 
Slue Mountain. Conechocheague Creek 
,lows through the town. It reaches from 
J'hiladelphia, via Harrisburg, or from 
fJaltimore by the Baltimore and Ohio 
Kaihvay to Frederick ; thence by stage to 
(lagerstown. Hotel, Broivn''s. 
\ CJettystmrg-^ the county town of 
^dams County, and the western terminus 
i)f the Gettijshurg Railway, will well re- 
pay a visit from the traveller in this sec- 
tion of the State. It is pleasantly situ- 
ited on a gently rolling and fertile plain, 
lUTOunded by hills, from which exten- 
ive views of the village and adjacent 
•iiimtry are obtained. It is 69 miles 
lom Harrisburg, and '76 from Baltimore, 
•hi Hanover Junction, on the Northern 
['intral Railway, the only present route 
ly which to reach the place. It is 
cached frgm New York in one day by 
he Jersey Central Railway to Eeadiug, 



and thence, via Columbia and York. A 
more direct route than the present, via 
Hanover Junction, is much needed, and 
steps are taken to secure this object. 
The principal hotel is the Eagle, which 
has accommodation for about 80 guests, 
The Lutheran TJieological Seminary. 
founded in 1826, and the Pennsylvania 
College, are among the most prominent 
institutions of the place. The former 
has a fine library, and is well worthy a 
visit. Gettysburg, however, is endowed 
with an interest growing out of the late 
war, far transcending any which it pos- 
sessed in its own right, and visitors will 
not care to tarry long after they have 
visited the memorable battle-field, on 
and around which was fought one of the 
most bloody and decisive conflicts of that 

" strange, eventful history," 

known as the Great Rebellion, and con- 
summated in the restoration of the Union. 

The battle was fought on the 1st, 2d, and 
3d of July,1863, between the Union forces, 
under General Meade, and the Confeder- 
ate army, under General Lee, in which 
the latter was vanquished, witla a loss in 
killed, wounded, and prisoners, of 23,000 
men. 

A day, well employed, will suffice to 
show the stranger, at Gettysburg, the 
battle-field and cemetery, while a second 
and third may be spent in visiting the 
springs and the several objects of interest 
in and round the village. The best ap- 
proach to the battle-field is that by the 
Baltimore turnpike, which leads south- 
wardly from the village directly to Ceme- 
tery Hill, distant half a mile from the 
Eagle Hotel. Cemetery Hill forms the 
central and most striking feature at 
Gettysburg. Here General Howard estab- 
lished his headquarters ; upon this point 
the heaviest fire of the enemy was con- 
centrated ; and here is most appropriately 
located the National Cemetery, where are 
interred a large number of the Union 
soldiers who fell during the engagement. 
(See National Cemetery.) It was known 
as Cemetery Hill long before the battle, 
the eastern slope of it having been enclos- 
ed and used as the village burying-ground. 
This should also be visited by the travel- 
ler. The view from the crest of the hill 13 
open and extended, affording every facil- 
169 



Gettysburg.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[GETTYSBDRa, 



ity, with the aid of the accompanying 
map, for following the movements of the 
respective armies. As the inspection of 
the cemeteries must be made on foot, the 
visitor will save time and labor by fol- 
lowing the route here indicated. The 
Village Cemetery, sometimes called the 
Citizens' Cemetery, in contradistinction to 
the National or Soldiers' Cemetery, which 
adjoins it, is entered through a lofty 
arched gateway from the Baltimore road. 
Following the main avenue southward, a 
short walk brings the visitor to a circular 
lot, well-nigh covered with stones, which 
are to be used in the construction of a 
vault. They present an aspect at once 
striking and suggestive. They cover the 
spot selected by General Howard on the 
morning of the engagement as his head- 
quarters, and here the heaviest fire of 
the rebel batteries, numbering nearly two 
hundred guns, was concentrated. With 
wise and kindly forethought, that officer 
had ordered the monuments and tomb- 
stones which surround the spot to be 
taken down, so that while some wei'e un- 
avoidably injured, comparatively few 
were destroyed. The marble monument 
erected to General Gettys, the founder 
and early proprietor of Gettysburg, 
which occupies a prominent position 
on the right of the avenue between the 
entrance and this lot, is worthy of no- 
tice. Standing on Cemetery Hill, the vis- 
itor has the key to the position of the 
Union forces during those eventful 
" three days of July." Cemetery Hill 
proper is the termination of the ridge 
which runs southward between the roads 
leading respectively to Taneytown and Em- 
metsburg. The view from this hill is exten- 
sive and varied. Westward the hoi'izon is 
bounded by the long range of the" South 
Mountain," beyond which lie Chambers- 
burg and Hagerstown. In the same direc- 
tion, a little to the right, and rather 
more than a mile distant, is the Semi- 
nary, near which began the battle of the 
1st, which terminated so disastrously to 
Reynolds's corps. From Seminary Ridge 
General Lee opened a furious bombard- 
ment of the Union position on Cemetery 
Hill. The cemetery is enclosed with a 
neat railing. On the gateway are in- 
scribed the names (eighteen in number) 
of the States represented by those buried 
1*70 



within. The 'monument, the foundation 
of which was laid November 19, 1863, 
will be completed July 4, 1868. The de- 
signer and contractor is James G. Bat- 
terson, of Hartford, Conn., and the cost 
will be $47,000. It will be 60 feet high, 
and crowned with a statue of Liberty. 
At the base of the pedestal ai'e four but- 
tresses, surmounted with allegorical stat- 
ues, representing War, History, Peace, 
and Plenty. The monument occupies the 
crown of the hill, and around it, in semi- 
circular slopes, are ranged the dead, each 
State being represented by a separate 
section. The divisions between the States 
are marked by alleys and pathways, 
radiating from the monument to the 
outer circle, the coffin-rows being divided 
by continuous granite blocks about six 
inches high, upon which are inscribed 
the name and regiment of each sol- 
dier, as far as ascertained. Between 
Emmettsburg pike and Cemetery Hill 
lies the scene of Pickett's bloody and 
disastrous charge, in which 18,000 men 
are estimated to have been engaged. 
Following Cemetery Ridge, and keeping 
before him Round Top Mountain, says 
the historian of the Army of the Poto- 
mac, a short walk will bring the visitor 
to one of the most interesting spots on 
this famous battle-field. "This is a 
bunch of wood to which a few — ^it may 
be a score or two — of the boldest and 
bravest that led the van of Pickett's 
charging column, on the 2d July, at- 
tained. Thus far the swelling surge ofj- 
invasion threw its spray, dashing itself to 
pieces on the rocky bulwark of northern 
valor. Let us call this the high-water 
mark of the rebellion." Seminary Ridge, 
College Hill, Chip's Hill, Round Top, and 
Little Round Top, are generally visited ; 
their exact topography will readily be as- 
certained by reference to the accompany- 
ing map. WilloHghhy Run, where General 
Buford's cavalry held in check the rebel 
column under Hill for nearly two hours, 
is pointed out. A mineral spring, the 
property of an association recently 
(1866) chartered, under the style of 
the " Lithea Spring Association,''^ and 
containing valuable medicinal qualities, 
forms one of the novel and attrac- 
tive features of the place. The water is 
said to resemble that of the celebrated 



% Ibedford Springs.] 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



[Cresson Springs. 



{Vichy Spring in Germany. It is situated 
fabout two miles west of the town. 

Bedibi-d Spring"®, located one 
mile from the village of Bedford, on the 
Uaystown branch of the Juniata, is an 
attractive place for invalid summer resort. 
'The water contains carbonic acid, sul- 
■phate of magnesia, sulphate of lime, and 
muriate of soda. Excellent hotel accom- 
modation for visitors. 

Route, via Huntingdon, on the Penn- 
mjlvania Central Railway ; thence by the 



Huntingdon and Broad Top road to 
Mount Dallas, 44 miles ; thence by stage, 
six miles. 

Cresson. Spring's, on the sum- 
mit of the Alleghanies, 15 miles west of 
Altoona, is a pleasant summer resort. 
The village is 3,000 feet above sea-level, 
and is much esteemed by invalids for the 
purity of its air. The hotels and cot- 
tages have accommodation for upward of 
2,000 persons. The Mountain House is 
well kept. 

Ill 



Ohio.] 



OHIO. 



[OhiI! 



OHIO 



Ohio is one of the largest and most 
important of the great V/estern States, 
and the third in the Republic in popu- 
lation and wealth. It extends over an 
area of 200 miles in length and 195 
miles in breadth. On its northern limits 
are Michigan and Lake Erie ; Pennsyl- 
vania and Virginia encompass it east- 
wardly ; the waters of the Ohio separate 
it from Kentucky on the south, and west- 
ward lies the State of Indiana. 

The central portions of Ohio are, for 
the most part, level lands, with here and 
there, more especially toward the north, 
tracts of marsh. In the northwest there 
is an extensive stretch of very fertile 
country, called the Black Swamp, much of 
which is yet covered with forest. Some 
prairies are seen in these middle and 
northern parts of the Stat^. A ridge of 
high land, north of the middle of the 
State, separates the rivers flowing north 
into Lake Erie from those running south 
into the Ohio River. A second ridge in- 
terrupts the Ohio slope near the middle of 
the State, and thence all the rest of the 
way southward the country is broken 
and hilly, terminating often upon the 
waters of the Ohio in abrupt and lofty 
banks. The great bituminous coal-veins 
of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Kentucky, 
extend into Ohio, supplying her well with 
this valuable product. Of iron also she 
possesses ample stores. 

The history of Ohio is of very recent 
date. The State is literally a product of 
the nineteenth century, having been 
formed from the territory northwest of 
the Ohio in 1802. The first settlements 
within the State were made (April 7, 
1*788) by New England emigrants at 
Marietta. Near that place is a remark- 
able mound 30 feet high, which, with a 
few similar earthworks in the neighbor- 
172 



hood of Circlerille, constitute almost the 
only natural objects of interest in these 
regions. 

The State is divided into eighty-eight 
counties, and has a population of 2,500- 
000. Columbus is the State capital, and 
Cincinnati the chief commercial city. 
Cleveland, Dayton, Toledo, Zanesville, 
Sandusky, and Hamilton are thriving 
commercial towns. In Warren County is 
Fort Ancient, which has about four miles 
of embankment, from 18 to 20 feet high. 
In Ross County are Clark's Works, 2,800 
feet long and 1,800 broad, enclosing some 
smaller works and mounds. A subter- 
ranean lake is supposed to exist at Bryan, 
in Wilhams County, as water, when 
bored for, is found at a depth of 40 or 
50 feet at all times and in great abun- 
dance, and fish, too, sometimes coming up 
with it. 

Ohio owes her wonderful prosperity — 
her almost marvellous growth, in the 
period of 60 years, from a wild forest 
tract to the proud rank she now holds 
among the greatest of the great American 
States — mainly to the capabilities of her 
rich soil and generous climate. Nearly 
all her vast territory is available for agri- 
cultural uses. In the amount of her prod- 
ucts of wool and of Indian corn she has 
no peer in all the land, while she is ex- 
ceeded by only one other State in her 
growth of wheat, barley, cheese, and 
live-stock • by only two States in the 
value of her orchards, oats, potatoes, 
buckwheat, grasses, hay, maple sugar, 
and butter. Among other articles which 
she yields •abundantly are hops, wine, 
hemp, silk, honey, beeswax, molasses 
(sorghum), sweet potatoes, and a great 
variety of fruits. Her vines, which are : 
known and esteemed everywhere, have < 
yielded, in the vicinity of Cincinnati alone, ! 



tllTERS.] OHIO. 

pair a million of gallons of wine in a year. 
Grrapes are now extensively cultivated on 
Kelly's Island and the lake region. In 
|ihe forests and woodlands are found the 
jjak, the sugar and other maples, the 
iiickory, the sycamore, poplar, ash, and 
lieech — the pawpaw, the buckeye (Ohio 
[s called the Buckeye State), "the dog- 
j,vood, and many other trees. 

K i V e V Se — The Ohio River forms 
best of the eastern and all of the southern 
loundary of the State, and is the recipient 
f the other principal streams of the re- 
ion. (See Ohio River.) It is navigated 
j)y passenger packets during the fall, 
jvinter, and spring months as high as 
Pittsburg. 

1 Tlie Miisliimg-ioia ISivei* is 
formed by the Tuscarawas and the Wal- 
onding, which rise in the upper part of 
-he State and meet at Coshocton. From 
his point the course of the Muskingum 
nearly southeast, 110 miles to the 
bio, at Marietta. Steamboats navigate 
jhis river as far as Dresden, 95 miles 
irom its mouth. 

'JTlic Scioto Mives* receives its 
pain affluent at Columbus, and Sows 
Ihence nearly south to the Ohio at Ports- 
outh. Its passage is about 200 miles, 
Ihrough a fertile valley region. The 
oute of the Ohio and Erie Canal is near 
|he Scioto, for a distance of more than 
miles. 
Xlte Miami Miver flows 150 
iles from the northwest central part of 
'he State, past Troy, Dayton, and Hamil- 
on, to the Ohio, 20 miles below Cincin- 
i:iti. It is a rapid and picturesque stream, 
ra versing a very populous and productive 
[■alley tract. Its course is followed for 
I'O miles by the Miami Canal. 

In the upper part of Ohio are the 
^andusky, the Huron, the Cuyahoga, and 
)tlier smaller rivers, which find their way 
Lake Erie. This lake forms about 150 
alios of the north and northwestern 
boundary of the State. 

Ohio is one of the most desirable 
'tales of the Union to visit and travel in, 
he means of communication being nu- 
!eious and expeditious. Lines of railway 
irerge from Cinciunati and other large 
ouimercial centres in every direction 
nd to every important point in the 
''tate. 



[Cincinnati. 



CINCINK-ATI, 



Hotels : The Burnet House is very cen- 
trally and pleasantly located on Third and 
Vine Streets ; the Spencer House, on Broad- 
way, near the Landing ; Broadway House, 
corner of Second Street and Broadway, 
near the river and Landing ; Walnut Street 
House, Walnut Street, between Sixth and 
Seventh Streets. The St. Nicholas, at the 
corner of Fourth and Race Streets, has 
one of the best-ordered restaurants in the 
West. 

Routes. — From New York, by the Erie 
Railway to Salamanca, and thence by the 
Atlantic and Great Western Railway, via 
Mansfield. Total distance from New York, 
862 miles. 

From Philadelphia. — By Pennsylvania 
Railroad, 355 miles, to Pittsburg, Pa., 
and thence 313 miles, via Columbus, to 
Cincinnati. Total, 668 miles. 

From Baltimore. — Baltimore and Ohio 
Railroad, S'Zl) miles, to Wheeling, Va. ; 
Central Ohio, from Belfaire, via Zanes- 
ville, to Columbus,. 13*7 miles; Little 
Miami Railroad, 120 miles, to Cincinnati. 
Total, 636 miles. 

From St. Louis. — By Ohio and Missis- 
sippi Railway, 340 miles. 

From New Orleans. — Mississippi and 
Ohio River steamers, or by railway, via 
Memphis, Louisville, Lexington, etc. 

"The Queen City of the West," as 
Cincinnati has not inappropriately been 
called, is the largest city of the West, 
and the fifth in extent and importance 
in the Union, Its central position on 
the Ohio River has made it a recei'ing 
and distributing depot for the wide and 
rich country tributary to those great 
waters. The city is delightfully situated 
in a valley of three miles' extent, enclosed 
by a well-defined cordon of hills, reach- 
ing, by gentle ascent, an elevation above 
the river of some 400 feet. These high 
points command imposing views of the 
city and its surroundings, far and near. 

The chief portion of Cincinnati lies 
upon two plateaus or terraces, the first 50 
feet above low-water mark, and the sec- 
ond 108 feet. The upper plain slopes grad- 
ually for a mile to the foot of Mount Au- 
burn — a range of limestone hills, charm- 
ingly embellished with villas and vine- 
yards. The city occupies the river shore 



Cincinnati.] 



OHIO. 



[Cincinnati 



for more than three miles, and its area is 
rapidly extending in every direction. The 
central and commercial quarter is well 
and compactly built. The streets are 
mostly of good width, well paved and 
well lighted. It is divided into 18 wards. 
The principal thoroughfares are Broad- 
way, Main, Pearl, and Fourth Streets. 
Main Street, the great business highway, 
6^ miles long, traverses the city from the 
Steamboat Landing — an open area of 
10 acres, with 1,000 feet front — and 
is intersected at right angles by 14 lead- 
ing streets, named First, Second, Third, 
Fourth, and so on. Pearl Street, parallel 
with the river, is the great jobbing mart. 
Fourth Street is the " Fifth Avenue " of 
the town, a long, wide, elegant and fash- 
ionable promenade upon the crown of the 
First Terrace, following the course of the 
river, and overlooking its waters and 
windings. Fifth Street contains the mar- 
kets, and displays a scene of busy life 
through an extent of three or four miles. 
The present population of Cincinnati is 
225,000, and, adding the rapidly increas- 
ing suburban population of Walnut Hills, 
Clifton, Cumminsville, and Mount Au- 
burn, it will exceed 250,000. 

Public Buildings. — The Cincinnati 
Observatory has a beautiful situation upon 
Mount Adams, in the eastern part of the 
city. It commands an extensive view of 
the Ohio and of the surrounding country. 
It can be distinctly seen by the traveller 
from the steamboat, in passing up or 
down the river. It occupies four acres of 
land, the gift of the late Mr. Nicholas 
Longworth. It was built by the volun- 
tary contributions of the citizens, who 
gave $25 each toward the erection of the 
building and the purchase of appropriate 
instruments. Much, however, is due to 
the energy and perseverance of Professor 
Mitchel, to whose unceasing labors they 
are principally indebted for the result. 
The corner-stone was laid November 9, 
1843, by the late John Quincy Adams, 
who called the edifice a " light-house of 
the skies." The telescope, made by Mentz 
& Mahler, of Munich, is of fine finish, ac- 
curacy, and power. Its cost was $10,000. 

The Masonic Hall (Temple) stands on 

the northwest corner of Walnut and 

Third Streets. It is an elegant structure, 

200 feet front and 80 feet high, newly 

IH 



erected from designs by Hamilton and 
McLaughlin, at a cost of $30,000. Odd- 
Fellows' Hall is opposite. 

The Cincinnati College, a commodious 
building, is situated in Walnut Street, be- 
tween Fourth and Fifth Streets. It is of 
the Grecian Doric order, three stories 
high, exclusive of an attic, and 140 feet 
front, 100 deep, and 60 in height. The 
Exchange and Reading-room is 59 feet by 
45 feet, and one of the finest in the Uni- 
ted States. The Mercantile Library As- 
sociation occupies rooms in the same 
building as the Exchange, and on the 
same floor. It has 2,000 members, and 
23,000 volumes, besides a very large 
supply of American and foreign news- 
papers, periodicals, etc. The United 
Stcdes building for the accommodation 
of the Post-office, Custom-House, and the 
United States Courts, is one of the most 
symmetrical edifices in the city, being 
a fine specimen of Corinthian architec- 
ture. It occupies a central locale on the 
southwest corner of Vine and Fourth 
Streets. The Lunatic Asylum is a three- 
story edifice of brick, located in the 
northwest part of the city. It has accom- 
modation for 450 inmates. The Ohio 
Medical College is located in Sixth Street, 
between Vine and Pace ; it contains a 
large lecture-room, library, etc., the lat- 
ter having several thousand well-selected 
standard works, purchased by the State. 
The cabinet belonging to the anatomical 
department is amply furnished. 

The City Hall is in Plum Street, be- 
tween Eighth and Ninth Streets. 

The Court-House, on Main Street, op- 
posite Court, is a spacious edifice, of 
white limestone, resembling marble, 
erected at a cost of half a million dol- 
lars. Mozart Hall is a massive stone 
building, with an auditorium capable of 
seating 3,000 persons. 

The Suspension Bridge, across the 
Ohio River, is a magnificent structure. 
This enterprise was projected as early 
as 1848, and a charter was granted 
some years ago by the Legislatures of 
Kentucky and Ohio. It was not, how- 
ever, until a comparatively recent date 
that subscriptions of stock could be se- 
cured to make a beginning. Some enter- 
prising men having procured (1855) 
$350,000, which has, during the progress 



!lNCINNATI.] 



OHIO. 



[Cincinnati. 



of the work, been increased to $Y00,000, 
the foundations were laid September 1, 
1856, and it will be completed during 
186Y. The entire cost of the bridge will 
exceed one and a half million dollars. 
The progress of the work is very interest- 
ing. The towers, the foundations of which 
are laid 86 by 52 feet at the base, are 
230 feet high, and 1,05*7 feet apart. The 
babies are anchored 300 feet back on 
each side of the river, whence, passing 
over the tops of the towers, they sustain 
the whole weight of the bridge. The en- 
tire length of the bridge will be 2,252 feet. 
The elevation of the floor at the middle, 
above low-water mark, is 100 feet. The 
great flood of 1832 — the highest on rec- 
|ord — rose 62 feet above low water ; and 
,king allowance even for this, there 
will remain 38 feet. The highest grade 
of ascent at either end is 5 feet in 100 
feet, and the strength of the bridge will 
be equal to that of any similar structure 
the world. Opened to pedestrians, 
December 1, 1866. 

Churches, etc. — Among the church 
^difices, of which there are 110 within 
jthe city, the CatJiedral of St. Peter is the 
most prominent and best worthy of a 
yisit. It is situated on Plum Street, cor- 
nier of Eighth, and is devoted to the ser- 
vices of the Roman Catholic Church. The 
jbuilding is 200 feet long by 80 broad, and 
'60 feet high, with a steeple of 221 feet. 
The roof is principally supported upon 
18 freestone pillars, formed of fluted 
'shafts, with Corinthian tops, three and a 
half feet in diameter, and 85 feet in 
height. The ceiling is of stucco-work, of 
a rich and exjiensive character. The 
roof is composed of iron plates, whose 
seams are coated with a composition of 
coal-t-ar and sand, which renders it im- 
pervious to rain. The building cost 
'$90,000, and the ground |24,000. At the 
west end of the church is an altar of the 
purest Carrara marble, made by Chiappri, 
of Genoa ; it is embellished with a centre- 
piece, enriched with rays, around which 
wreaths and flowers are beautifully carved. 
The organ has 2, '700 pipes and 44 stops. 
One of the pipes is 33 feet long, and 
weighs 400 pounds. It cost $5,250. Sev- 
eral paintings occupy the walls, among 
which the St. Peter, by Murillo, presented 
to Bishop Fenwick by Cardinal Fesch, 



uncle of Napoleon, is much admired. The 
Episcopal Church, corner of Seventh and 
Plum Streets, and the First Presbyterian, 
corner of Main and Fourth Streets, are 
notable edifices. 

Theatres. — Pike's Opm-OrHouse, burnt 
March 22, 1866, is now being rebuilt on 
the old site, on Fourth Street, between 
Walnut and Vine, and running back to 
Baker. The National Iheatre, No. 92 
Sycamore, between Third and Fourth 
Streets, is the oldest theatrical .establish- 
ment in the city. Wood^s Theatre, corner 
of Vine and Sixth Streets, is a newer 
place of resort. The German Theatre 
is at the northeast comer of Mercer and 
Vine Streets. 

Benevolent Institutions. — The chief 
benevolent institutions are the Lunatic 
Asylum^ the Commercial Hospital, four 
Orphan Asylums (viz., the Cincinnati., 
Elm, . corner of Thirteenth Street ; St. 
Peter''s, corner Third and Plum Streets ; 
St. Aloysius, Fourth Street; and West 
German Protestant, Mount Auburn), the 
Widoivs'' Home, Asylum for Indigent Fe- 
males, the House of Refuge, and the Hotel 
for hivalids, corner of Broadway and 
Franklin. The Longview Asylum, near 
Carthage Station, on the Hamilton and 
Bayton Raihvay, should be visited. It 
can be reached by omnibus from the cor- 
ner of Sixth and Main Streets. 

Educational Institutions, etc. — The 
educational institutions of the city ar< 
under the supervision of a board of trus- 
tees elected annually. They embrace 
18 districts, two intermediate and two 
high schools, while private establish- 
ments of good grade are quite numerous. 
The St. Xavicr College, on Sycamore Street, 
between Sixth and Seventh Streets, has an 
extensive library, museum, and appara- 
tus. The La7ie Tlieological Seminary is 
named after the brothers Ebenezer and 
Andrew Lane, of Oxford, England. This 
institution went into operation in 1833. 
The library contains 10,000 volumes. 
Pairmount Theological Semi7iary is two 
miles northwest of the Court-Hoiise. The 
Wesleyan Female College, and the Wood- 
ward and Eclectic Aledical Colleges, the 
former founded by the late William Wood- 
ward, are among the most noteworthy. 
The Mount Auburn Young Ladies^ In" 
stitute is a flourishing institution. 
l^o 



Cincinnati.] 



OHIO. 



[Cincinnati. 



Libraries, ETC.-^Tbe public libraries 
of Cincinnati are nine in number, two 
of which are German. The Mercantile 
Librari/, in the College building, on Wal- 
nut Street, between Fourth and Fifth 
Streets, affords every opportunity for 
strangers desiring access to its shelves. 
It is open from eight o'clocli A. m. to ten 
p. M. The room adjoining the library is 
used by the students in the law depart- 
ment of the Cincinnati College. The 
Mechanics' Institute, on Vine and Sixth 
Streets, and the Horticultm'al Society, 
make annual exhibitions. 

Cemeteries. — There are ten cemeteries 
in and near the city. Of these, that lo- 
cated at Spring Grove is best worthy a 
visit. 

Spring Grove Cemetery, a rural " city" 
of the dead," is situated in the valley of 
Mill Creek, five miles northwest of the 
city. It was commenced in 1845. It con- 
tains 277 acres, laid out and adorned 
■with exquisite and most appropriate 
taste. The original plan was drawn 
by Notman, of Philadelphia. The great 
feature of Spring Grove is the open- 
lot system, which has been adopted. 
Unsightly fences and railings nowhere 
offend the eye, and the entire absence of 
all superfluous ornamentation affords a 
marked and pleasing contrast to not a 
few of our largest and most frequented 
burying-grounds. The grounds are under 
the able superintendence of Mr. Adolph 
Strauch, florist and landscape gardener. 
Spring Grove contains some of the hand- 
somest monuments to be found in any 
rural cemetery in the country. Among 
the most conspicuous for size and beauty 
are the following: The Hoffner monu- 
ment consists of a Gothic shrine, executed 
in white marble, by Eule, from designs 
by Earnshaw. The statue within is by 
Fantoci, a Florentine sculptor, and is 
much admired. The Baum monument is 
of Quincy granite, 30 feet high. The vault 
of Jacob Strader is worthy of notice. It 
is built of red Connecticut sandstone, 
from designs by Batterson. The monu- 
ments to Peter Neff and Charles E. Wil- 
liams are generally pointed out. 

Among the greatest attractions of 
Spring Grove are undoubtedly its fine 
trees and shrubs, the number and vari- 
ety of American forest-trees contained in 
176 



the original site (Garrard farm) forming 
one of the strongest inducements opera- 
ting in its selection for the purposes 
of a cemetery. The list embraces the < 
names of nearly 200 specimens — native ' 
and foreign — now cultivated at Spring j 
Grove. The Lake is a beautiful sheet of ; 
water. The cemetery is reached by v 
street cars from the corner of Vine and 1 
Fourth Streets in one hour. 

VICINITY. 

The neighborhood of Cincinnati i 
abounds with excellent macadamized i 
roads. They are fourteen in number, , 
with an aggregate length of 514 miles. 

After visiting Spring Grove and the 
Suspension Bridge, a drive on Madison 
and Grandin roads will show the visitor 
most of the attractive features of the 
vicinity. Leaving the noise and smoke 
of the city, and proceeding northward 
through Vine Street, a drive of half an 
hour will bring the traveller into the high 
terrace lands in the rear of the city, 
whence, unless (as is sometimes the case) 
the Smoke is impenetrable, a good view 
is obtained. 

Bald Head, which has long been a 
favorite vineyard property of the Long- 
worth family, is soon to be parcelled off 
into building-lots, the grape-crop having 
failed in the neighborhood for many years 
past. The residences of Mr. Harrison, 
Mr. Anderson, Captain P. W. Strader, 
and others on the Grandin road com- 
mand fine views up and down the Ohio 
River. That from the grounds of Mr. 
Harrison is specially worth seeing. 

EouTES. — There are twelve main lines 
of railway travel leading from Cincinnati, 
by means of one or other of which every 
point of importance or interest in the State 
can readily be reached. These are the Cin- 
cinnati, Hamilton, and Dayton Railway, 
extending 60 miles to Dayton, and thence 
by the Dayton and Michigan Railway to ■ 
Toledo ; the Hamilton and Eaton branch, 
from HamOton (25 miles), to Richmond 
(70 miles) ; the Atlantic and Great West- 
ern Railway, via Dayton (60 miles), and 
Corry (387), to Salamanca, New York 
(448 miles) ; the Chicago and Great 
Eastern Railway, via Richmond (70 
miles), to Chicago (292 miles) ; the Ctwcm- 



•0. 

by 



lie 
id 
he 
;et 



les 
of 
ch 
ed 
he 

3,- 

la- 



CiN 



Hamilton.] 



OHIO. 



[Toledo. 



)nati and Zanesville Railway, via Morrow 
(36 miles), to Zanesville (168 miles); the 
Little Miami and Columbus and Xenia 
Railroad, to Columbus (120 miles), and 
thence by the Cleveland, Columbus, and 
Cincinnati Railroad to Cleveland (255 
miles), and by the Central Ohio Railroad 
to Bellaire (257 miles) ; the Marietta and 
Cincinnati Railway, which leaves the Lil- 
lle Miami Railroad at Love! and (23 
miles), and extends to Parkersburg, Va. 
1 202 miles) ; the Ohio and Mississippi 
Railway, via Lawrenceburg (21 miles), 
and Vincennes, Ind. (191 miles), to 
St. Louis, Missouri, (340 miles) ; from 
Lawrenceburg the Indianapolis, ar.d Cin- 
\innati road extends to Indianapolis (110 
'miles) ; the Ritts-burff, Columhus, and Cin- 
cinnati Railroad is an extension of the 
liittle Miami and Central Ohio roads, 
'ia Steubenville (" Pan Handle "), and the 
Cleveland and Pittsburg Raihvay to Pitts- 
)urg (209 miles), in the adjoining State of 
Pennsylvania ; the Sandusky, Dayton, and 
lincinnati Railway, via Dayton (60 miles), 
Sandusky, on Lake Erie (154 miles); 
he Kentucky Central Railway, from Cov- 
ton, opposite Cincinnati, via Lexing- 
on (99 miles), to Nicholasville (112 
piles). 

Travellers bound for Cairo, St. Louis, 
lemphis, Vicksburg, New Orleans, or 
joints on the upper or lower Mississippi 
uring the regular boating season, can 
roceed on the regular river packets run- 
ing between Cincinnati and those points. 
Leaving Cincinnati, on the Hamilton 
nd Dayton road, the train quickly 
asses Brighton and Spring Grove, seven 
liles (See Spring Grove Cemetery). 
ear Carthage, three miles beyond 
piing Grove, stands the imposing edifice 
f the Longview Asylum,, one of the 
pblest charities of the city. 
llumiltosi, 25 miles from Cincin- 
ati, on the road to Dayton, and 90 miles 
outh-southwest of Columbus, lies on both 
des of the Miami Eiver. It was chartei-ed 
L 1853. A canal, completed some years 
5 Ince, furnishes a fine water-power. It 
the county seat of Butler County, 
id manufactures are extensively carried 
The county buildings, churches, and 
inks are among the most prominent 
lildings. It has direct railway com- 
unication with llichmond, Indiana, 45 



I 



miles, by the Eaton and Hamilton Rail- 
way. Population, 8,500. 

l>aytOBi. — Hotel, Phillips House. 

Dayton, 60 miles from Cincinnati by 
the Cincinnati, Hamilton, and Dayton 
road, is now an important railway centre, 
roads diverging thence to every part of 
the State. (See Routes prom Cincinnati.) 
This is one of the most populous and en- 
terprising cities in Ohio. It is advanta- 
geously situated on the east bank of the 
great Miami Eiver, at the mouth of Mad 
River. The location is pleasant, and the 
streets, which are one hundred feet 
wide, are handsomely laid out. Exten- 
sive manufactures of various kinds are 
carried on. Many of the public edifices 
and private mansions are constructed of 
excellent limestone and marble, which 
abound in the vicinage. It was settled 
in 1796, and incorporated in 1805. The 
Court-House, erected at a cost of $170,- 
000, is an imposing structure. Popula- 
tion, 33,000. 

fijijM-Sa, on the Dayton and Michigan 
Railway, 131 miles north of Cincinnati, is 
a thriving town on the Ottawa River, 98 
miles northwest of Columbus. It has 
immediate railway communication with 
Chicago and Pittsburg by the Pittsburg, 
Fort Wayne, and Chicago Railway. Popu- 
lation, 4,500. 

Toled-O, — Hotels, Island House, 
American Hotel. 

Toledo is upon the Maumee Eiver, four 
miles from its entrance into Lake Michi- 
gan, and upon the great railway route 
from the Eastern States westward. It is 
52 miles west of Sandusky City, 113 
miles west of Cleveland, 255 miles from 
Dunkirk (Erie road), 714 miles from 
New York, and 243 miles east of Chicago, 
by the Michigan Southern route. Toledo 
is the terminus of the Wabash and Erie, 
and Miami and Erie Canals. Its history 
as a city dates only from 1836, but it is 
already one of the chief commercial sta- 
tions of the commerce of the great lakes. 
The public schools and church edifices 
are among its most noteworthy struc- 
tures. The grain-trade of the place is 
large and increasing, and some of the 
immense elevators will repay a visit from 
the stranger in the West. A street rail- 
way affords ready access to the several 
177 



Springfield. "I 



OHIO. 



[Newark. 



points of interest. Population, 23,000, 
and increasing rapidly. Direct commu- 
nication with Detroit, Michigan (64 miles), 
via Monroe. 

X e n. i a. , the capital of Greene 
County, is on the Little Miami, and 
Columbus mid Xenia Railway, 65 miles 
from Cincinnati, and 55 from Columbus. 
Springfield is 19 miles distant. It is 
handsomely laid out and lighted with gas. 
The Coiirt-House is an imposing edifice. 
Population, 6,500. 

Spa'imgiicl A, — Hotel, Willis 
House. 

Springfield, 84 miles above Cincinnati, 
on the direct route thence from Sandusky 
City on Lake Erie, and 130 miles below 
Sandusky, is an important railroad point. 
Dayton is 25 miles distant by rail. The 
Mad River and the Lagonda Creek meet 
at Springfield. These rapid waters afford 
abundant and fine mill-sites, which are 
all well employed by the manufactories 
of the town. This city is regarded as one 
of the most beautiful in the State, both 
in its position and construction. It was 
laid out in 1803. Wittenberg College 
(Lutheran) is a short distance from the 
city. The birthplace of the famous In- 
dian warrior, Tecumseh, is five miles 
west. Population in 1860, 7,150. 

ISelleloiitaisie is on the Sandus- 
ky, Dayton, and Cineimiati Railway, 98 
miles south of the former, and \Vl miles 
north of the latter city. The Bellefontaine 
Railway intersects the main line here, 
and connects the town with Terre Haute 
and St. Louis. In the neighborhood are 
Bome fine springs, whence the name Fine 
^Fountain, is derived. It was laid out in 

1820, and has a population of nearly 3,000. 
TiiSEa, the capital of Seneca County, 

is on the Sandusky Kiver and Sandusky, 
Dayton, and Cincinnati Railway, 34 miles 
southwest of Sandusky, and 181 miles 
north of Cincinnati. It Avas laid out in 

1821, and has a population of nearly 5,000. 

Coliamtoiis. — Hotel, Neil House. 

Routes. — From New York, Philadel- 
phia, and intermediate places, see Cin- 
ciNKATi for route thence to that city, as 
far as Columbus. From Cleveland (Lake 
Erie), southwest, 135 miles, by the Cleve- 
land, Columbus, and Cincinnati road ; 
from Cincinnati, by the same route, north- 
east, 120 miles; from Wheeling, Va. (see | 

178 



Bellaire), terminus of the Baltimore and 
Ohio road, 137 miles west, by the Oliio 
Centred; from Pittsburg, by the Pitts- 
burg, Columbus, and Cincinnati Railway, 
209 miles. 

Columbus is near the centre of the 
State, upon the banks of the Scioto 
River, 90 miles from its debouchure on 
the Ohio. It was founded in 1812, and ^ 
in 1860 had a population of nearly 19,000. 
It is the centre of a rich country, which 
is daily adding to its extent and opu- 
lence. Some of the principal streets are 
100 and 120 feet in width, and elegantly 
built. Many of the pubhc edifices are of 
a very striking character. The Capitol, 
which is constructed of limestone I'esem- 
bling marble, has a fa9ade of more than 
300 teet, and an elevation, to the top of the 
rotunda, of 137 feet. It occupies the centre 
of the public sc(uare, and near the site of 
the old State-House, burnt January 1, 
1852. An artesian well, 2,775 feet deep, has 
been sunk without reaching water. Among 
the other most noteworthy buildings are 
the Ohio LvMcdic Asylum, the Institution 
for the Blind, the Asylum for the Deaf 
and Dumb, and the State Penitentiary. 
The last-named building is an imposing 
edifice of Ohio marble, covering, with the 
adjacent workshops, a square of six 
acres' extent. The Starling Medical Col- 
lege, endowed by the late Lyne Starling, 
was established here some years ago. 
It occupies a Gothic edifice of brick, 
capped with a whitish limestone. The 
present population of Columbus is esti- 
mated at 21,300. 

At Eastwood, in the immediate vicinity 
of the city, the traveller may have an 
opportunity of seeing the gardens of the 
Columbus Horticultural Society, and the 
grounds of the Franklin County Agricul- 
tural Society. 

Ne^vai-l*:, the capital of Licking 
County, is well situated at the forks of 
the Licking River, on the Ohio Canal, 
and at the junction of the Pittsburg, . 
Columbus, and Cincinnati and the San- 
dusky, Mansjidd, and Newark Rail- 
ways. It is 33 miles east of Columbus, 
117 miles south of Sandusky, and 104 
miles west of Wheeling, Va. Cannel coal 
and sandstone abound in the vicinity. It 
was laid out in 1801, and contains a pop- 
ulation of about 6,000. 



Bellaiue.] 



OHIO. 



[Clevkland, 



IScllaire is a small town on the 
Ohio River, opposite Wheeling, and the 
point of intersection between the BaUi- 
more and Ohio Railroad, and the Cen- 
tral Ohio, leading west and north. Ferry 
between Bellaire and AVheeling. Meals 
served on board the boat. 

Cl<?velaaicl. — Hotels : the Ken- 
nard Hoiise, one of the best in the West ; 
the Weddell Hoicse, Bank and Superior 
Streets ; the Angler House, Bank and St. 
Clair Streets. 

Routes. — From New York, by the 
A^ew York and Erie Railway, to Dun- 
kirk, on Lake Erie, 460 miles ; thence 
the lake steamera, or the Lake Shore 
Railway {via Erie), 143 miles. Total, 
New York to Cleveland, 603 miles. Or, 
from New York by Neiu York and Erie 
Railway to Salamanca (414 miles), and 
thence by the Atlantic and Great Western 
Railway to Cleveland. Total distance, 
629 miles, without change of cars. From 
Philadelphia, via Pennsylvania Railroad, 
365 miles to Pittsburg, and thence by 
Cleveland and Pittsburg Railway (150 
miles). Total, 505 miles. From Balti- 
imore, via Harrisburg, thence to Pitts- 
;burg. Pa., or by the Baltimore and Ohio 
iroute to Wheeling, etc. 

Cleveland, the second city of Ohio, is 
beautifully situated on the south shore 
jor bluff of Lake Erie, at the mouth of 
Cuyahoga River, and at the terminus of 
ithe Cleveland, Columhus,--and Cincinnati 
Railway, 258 miles northeast of the lat- 
ter city. It is one of the handsomest 
'cities of the Union. The profusion of 
shade-trees which adorn it streets have 
earned for it the title of the " Forest 
City." It is laid out with broad, well-paved 
streets, occasionally varied with open 
squares, giving to the city a very pleasing 
general appearance. 

j Near the centre of the city is a public 
bquare of ten acres, in which stands the 
monument to Commodore Perry, inaugu- 
rated t-'eptember 8, 1860. Tlie pedestal 
is of Rhode Island granite. The statue is 
of Italian marble, and cost $8,000. On 
the west side of the river is another en- 
closure, known as " the Circle." Pros- 
pect and Euclid Streets are handsome 
promenades, containing numerous ele- 
gant residences. 
The social and municipal institutions 



of the city are in a highly creditable con- 
dition. The churches and schools espe- 
cially are numerous and excellent. Vis- 
itors must not fail to see the Medical Col- 
lege, the Marine Hospital, the new Water- 
works, which occupy the highest ground 
west of the river, and the Union Railroad 
Depot, at which almost as many passen- 
gers daily arrive and depart as at any 
other point in the land.- From the prom- 
enade, on the summit of the Water- 
•Wol'ks Reservoir, a fine view is obtained 
of the city. Case's Hall is one of the finest 
public concert and lecture rooms in the 
West. 

The Cleveland Library Association has 
a library of about 10,000 volumes ; also 
a reading-room, supplied with all the 
leading newspapers and periodicals, and 
an annual course of lectures. 

The cemeteries are among the chief 
ornaments of the city. The City Ceme- 
tery, on Erie Street, has several handsome 
monuments. 

Cleveland was the first settlement 
within the limits of Cuyahoga County, in 
that part of Ohio which has long been 
known as the Western Reserve. It was 
laid out in October, 1*796, and named in 
honor of General Moses Cleveland, a 
native of Connecticut. Originally the 
town was confined to the eastern shore 
of the Cuyahoga, but subsequently 
Brooklyn, or Ohio City sprang up on 
the opposite side, and both parts are now- 
united under one corporation, distinguish- 
able only by the bi'idge across the river. 

Independent of its large and increas- 
ing business by railway and canal, 
Cleveland carries on a very consider- 
able and important trade with the lake 
country, more particularly with the mi- 
ning region of Lake Superior. Twenty 
transportation lines are connected with 
the port, giving daily steamboat and pro- 
peller communication M'ith every impor- 
tant point on the chain of lakes. This 
is one of the best points of departure 
for tourist travel to the Lake Superior 
region. (See Lake Superior.) Cleveland 
has also attained eminence as a ship- 
building port. The city was settled in 
1'796, incorporated in 1886, and ia 1865 
had a population of 58,700. The assessed 
value of city property in 1864 exceeded 
$22,000,000. 

1'79 



Zanesville.] 



OHIO. 



[Sandusky. 



ZaMcsfillc . — Hotels, Stacy 
House ; Zane House. 

Zauesville is upon the route from Bal- 
timore to Columbus, Giucinuati, Indian- 
apolis, and St. Louis (see those cities for 
routes thither) ; from Wheeling, Va. (see 
Bellaire), '78 miles by Central Ohio 
line ; from Columbus, by same road, 59 
miles ; from Cincinnati, via Cincinnati 
and Zanesville road, 168 miles. 

The position of Zanesville, upon the 
Muskingum River, and in the midst of a 
rich and populous valley region, promises 
an indefinite continuation of its past suc- 
cess, which has been upon the scale com- 
mon to the cities of the Great West. 
Putnam, South Zanesville, and West Zanes- 
ville, on the west side of the Muskingum, 
are connected with the city proper by 
bridges. Settlements were first made 
here in 1*799, and here was the seat of 
the State Government during the two 
years immediately preceding the selection 
of Columbus as the capital in 1812. Esti- 
mated population, 11,250. 

OuIIicotlae. 

Chillicothe is on the Scioto Eiver, and 
the Ohio and Erie Canal, 45 miles below 
Columbus, and the same distance from 
the Ohio at Portsmouth. It is upon the 
Cincinnati and Marietta Raihvay, extend- 
ing from Parkersburg, on the Ohio, a ter- 
minus of the Baltimore and Ohio road, to 
Cincinnati. Distance from Cincinnati 99 
miles ; from Parkersburg, 106 miles. This 
city was founded in 1*790, and was the 
capital of the State between the years 
1800 and 1810. The Court-Hov.se is an 
imposing stone edifice, erected at a cost 
of $100,000. 

The fine hill-slopes which enclose the 
valley site of Chillicothe contribute greatly 
to the unusually attractive aspect of the 
landscape here. To describe the topog- 
raphy of this pleasant city would be but 
to repeat what we have already said of 
many other places on the fruitful plains 
of Ohio and the neighboring States — to 
talk only of spacious and regular streets, 
substantial and elegant buildings, all tell- 
ing eloquent tales of prosperity and prog- 
ress. Population in 1860, 7,'730. 

StemtoeiaT'ille. — Hotel, United 
States. 

Steubenville is upon the Ohio River, 
on the eastern boundary of the State, 
180 



and on the great ("Pan Handle") railway 
route from Philadelphia, via Pittsburg, 
and from Baltimore, via Wheeling, Va., 
to Cincinnati, and all points in the West. 
It is 270 miles east of Cincinnati, and 59 
miles west of Pittsburg. The history of 
Steubenville dates from 1*798. Railroad 
communication has of late years given to 
it, no less than to its neighbors, a new 
and strong impetus forward. The posi- 
tion of the town is upon high terrace- 
land, overlooking a smiling and fertile 
comatry in all directions. The Female 
Seminary, overlooking the Ohio River, 
which is here about one-third of a mile 
in width, is a handsome edifice, with ac- 
commodation for 150 pupils. Population, 
between 7,000 and 8,000, upward of 1,000 
of whom are engaged in manufactures. 

§aia«iM!elty. — Hotels, West House; 
Townsend House ; St. Lawrence. 

Sandusky City is tlie northern terminus 
of the Sandusky, Dayton, and Cincin- 
nati, and the Sandusky, Mansfield, and 
Newark Railways. It is pleasantly 
situated on the south shore of Sandusky 
Bay, an inlet of Lake Erie, on the line of • 
the Lake Shore Railway, from Dunkirk 
and Buffalo (N. Y.) to Toledo, Chicago, 
etc. It is distant from Cleveland 61 
miles ; from Toledo, 52 miles ; from Cin- 
cinnati, 214 miles ; from Dunkirk {New 
Yo7-k and Hrie road), 203 miles ; from 
New York, 662 miles. 

The city was laid out by Connecticut 
emigrants in 181*7. The first church was 
built as late as 1880. Now the city is 
one of the most populous and opulent in 
Northern Ohio. Population, 25,000. Its 
eligible position on the busy waters of 
Lake Erie and its beautiful harbor, in- 
sure it continued growth and prosperity. 

Portsmouth is upon the Ohio River, 
in the southeast part of the State. A 
railway extends northward to Hamden, ou 
the line of the road from Cincinnati to 
Marietta and Parkersburg, Va. The Ohio . 
River steamers, from all points, call here. 

Crestlime is a young railroad town 
at the intersection of the Cleveland, 
Columbus, and Cincinnati., and Pittsburg, 
Fort Wayne, and Chicago Railways, *75 
miles from Cleveland, 63 miles from 
Columbus, and 183 from Cincinnati. It 
was laid out in 1851, and contains about 



Ajskon.] 



OHIO. 



[Waeeen. 



3,000 inhabitauts. It is a general re- 
Teshmcnt station for all through trains. 
Continental Hotel. 

Ui-ljanna, 95 miles from Cincin- 
lati, on the Atlantic and Great Western 
Railway, is important as the point of 
ntersection with the Columbus and In- 
lianapolis, and Sandusky, Dayton, and 
inchmati Railways. It is the seat of 
justice of Champaign County, and con- 
aius nearly 8,000 inhabitants. The first 
ouse was built in 1806. The Urbanna 
University and Collegiate Institution are 
located here. 
Proceeding northeast, we next reach 
Cnallou, 164 miles from Cincinnati, 
nd. 282 miles from the eastern terminus 
if the Atlantic and Great Western Rail- 
')ay at Salamanca. Crawford County, in 
^'hich Gahon is situated, is famous for 
ts beds of peat. Cranberry Harsh alone 
s estimated to contain two million and 
I half cords. The Sulpliur Springs, near 
ucyrus, the county seat, are sometimes 
isited by travellers. 

Mamsficlcl, 1*79 miles from Cin- 
nnati, by the Atlantic road, and 1*76 
liles from Pittsburg, on the J^oi't Wayne 
nd Chicago road, is pleasantly situated 
a elevated ground, in Eichjand County. 
oted for its fine horses and cattle. The 
andusky, Dayton, and Newark Railway 
mnects it with those cities. It was set- 
ed in 1808 by Colonel Jared Mansfield, 
"ter whom it is named. Population, 
^)Out 6,000. 

"fVest Salem, lies in the centre of 
\e great butter region of Waj'ne County, 
19 miles from Cincinnati by the Atlantic 
id Greed. Western Railway. Here pas- 
jngers on the night trains from Cincin- 
Iti usually breakfast. 
Akroii is at the point of intersection 



between the Atlantic and Great Western, 
and the Cleveland and Zanesville, and Cin- 
cinnati Railviays, 246 miles from the last- 
named city, and 202 miles southwest of 
Salamanca. The Ohio and Erie and Ohio 
and Pennsylvania Canals also connect at 
this point. Flour is extensively manu- 
factured by means of the water-power in 
the canals and Little Cuyahoga River. 
Mineral paint is exported in large quan- 
tities. 

Kent, on the Cuyahoga River, 10 
miles from Akron, has extensive work- 
shops and factories. It was formerly 
called Franklin Mills. Brady^s Pond and 
Brady^s Leap, on the Cuyahoga River, 
two miles from the town, afford pleasant 
rambles. 

Mavemma, 263 miles from Cincin- 
nati, by the Atlantic road, and 38 miles 
southeast of Cleveland, by the Cleveland 
and Pillshurg road, is pleasantly situated 
on a plain near the branch of the Cuy- 
ahoga River. It was settled in 1799, and 
contains a population of 3,000. 

'^l^aiTem, the county seat of Trum- 
bull County, is on the Mahoning River 
and Atlantic and Great Western Railway ; 
162 miles west of Salamanca, and 286 
miles northeast of Cincinnati. The Penn- 
sylvania and Ohio Canal connects the 
town with Lake Erie and the Ohio River. 

Y o -Bi 11 g- s t o ^" 11 , in Mahoning 
County, is pleasantly situated on the 
Mahoning River, 17 miles from Leavitts- 
burg, whence it connects, via the At- 
lantic and Great Western Railway, with 
Cincinnati (283 miles), and Salamanca, 
N. Y. (165 miles). Extensive iron manu- 
factories arc located here. 

(For continuation of this route east- 
ward to Salamanca and 'New York, see 
Erie Railroad.) 

181 



Indiana.] 



INDIANA. 



[Inwana, 



ikdia:na 



Indiana, the fifth State in the Union 
in population, extends about 2*75 miles 
from north to south, and 135 from east to 
west. On the north is the Lake and 
State of Michigan ; on the east Ohio ; on 
the south Kentucky (across the Ohio 
Eiver) ; and on the west Illinois (across 
the Wabash). 

There is Bttle in the history of the 
State to interest the traveller. It was 
first settled by the French traders and 
missionaries, who remained till after the 
close of the American Revolution. In 
1800 it became a Territorial government, 
and in 1816 an independent State. The 
battle of Tippecanoe, in 1811, in which 
the Shawnee Indians were routed by the 
United States forces, under General Har- 
rison, is the only mihtary event recorded 
in the history of the State. 

Topographically, this State bears a 
great resemblance to its neighbor, Ohio. 
In the south, bordering on the Ohio, is 
the same hilly surface; and above, the 
same, undulating or level land, of a more 
marked prairie character sometimes, and 
perhaps more of barrens and marshes 
northward. In this direction a great pine 
tract abuts on Lake Michigan in sand' 
hills of 200 feet elevation. The river 
lands are almost always rich and fertile. 
As in surface, so in soil and climate, In- 
diana is very like Illinois. In the produc- 
tion of Indian corn she is the fourth State 
in the Union, Illinois being the first. The 
ofher products are much the same as 
those we have credited to her great sister 
State. (See Ohio.) Coal, iron, copper, 
marble, freestone, lime, and gypsum are 
found here. The State is divided into 
ninety-one counties, and contained in 
1860 a poj)ulatiou of 1,350,428, of whom 
290 were Indians. Indianapolis is the 
capital, and chief commercial city ; New 
182 



Albany, Evansville, Fort Wayne, Lafay- \ 
ette, and Terre Haute, are prosperous 
towns, with a population ranging from i 
10,000 to 15,000 each. 

The Ohio forms the entire southern 
boundary of Indiana, and receives the 
waters of nearly all the other rivers of ' 
the State. (See Ohio River, Map, etc.) 

The WabasJi, next to the Ohio, the 
largest river of the region, flows 500 
miles, crossing the State, and separating > 
it in the lower half from Illinois. It is 
the largest tributary — from the north — 
of the Ohio, which it enters 140 miles 
from the Mississippi. In its passage it 
passes Huntington, Lafayette, Attica, 
Terre Haute, Covington, and other towns. 
It is navigable at high water for nearly 
400 miles. The Wabash and Erie Canal 
follows its course from Huntington to 
Terre Haute, 180 miles. 

The White River, the principal tribu- 
tary of the Wabash, is formed by the 
two branches called the East and West 
Forks, which unite near Petersburg. It 
enters the Wabash, after a course of 
some 30 milei, nearly opposite Mount 
Carmel, lUinois. The' West Fork, the 
longest branch of the White River flows 
southwest nearly 300 miles through 
the centre of the State, passing among 
other places, Muncie, Anderson, Indian- 
apohs, Martinsville, and Bloomfield. On 
the East Fork are New Castle, Shelby- 
ville, Columbus, and Rockford. This fork 
is 200 miles in length. It is sometimes- 
called Blue River, until it reaches Sugar 
Creek, near Edinburg. 

The Mmimce, which is formed in In- 
diana by the St. Joseph's and the St. 
Mary's Rivers, passes into Ohio, where 
we have already met it. Besides these 
rivers, there are many other lesser waters. 
Lake Michigan washes the northern bor- 



/ DI-4NAP0LIS.] 



INDIANA. 



[Indianapolis. 



^r of the State for 40 miles. (See Lake 
iCHiGAN.) In this region there are also 
Qumber of small lakes and ponds. 
The most interesting natural curiosities 

the State (the peculiar landscape fea- 
res of the region, in prairie reaches 
id richly wooded river banks excepted) 
e the numerous and remarkable caves. 
The Wyandotte Cave, in Crawford Coun- 
, 11 miles from Corydon, is a wonder- 
1 place, thought by many to equal in its 
arvels the famous Mammoth Cave of 
entucky. It has been explored for a 
imber of miles, and has been found 
bh in magnificent chambers and gal- 
des, in stalactites and other calcareous 
ncretions. 

Epsom Salts Cave is another notable 
ace. It is on the side of a hill, 400 feet 

height, on the Big Blue River. Among 
S wonders is a white column SO feet 
jh and 15 feet in diameter. It is regu- 
l-ly and beautifully fluted, and is sur- 
unded by other formations of the same 
aracter. Epsom salts, nitre, gypsum, 
d aluminous earth are found in the 
il cf the floor here. A curious object 
found within the cave in the shape of a 
fcture of an Indian rudely painted on the 
ck. 

Ancient Mounds and earthworks are 
attered over this State, as through 
lio. 

Railways. — In our peep at Ohio, we 
|,ve alluded to the wonderful network 

railroads, which so marks that State 
^d its neighbors both east and west. 
lese iron roads link all parts of In- 
ana to each other, and unite it closely 
Ith every part of the Union from the At- 
Dtic to the Mississippi. The railways 
fre, as in Ohio on the one side, and 
inois on the other, are links of the great 
^hways across the continent westward. 
dianapolis is the chief radiating point 

the railway system of this State, as 
incinnati is of Ohio and Chicago of II- 
iois, and thence the traveller has ready 
cess to every part of the Union. * 
Intlianapolls. — Hotels, Bates 
ouse and the American. 
The locale of Indianapolis is at once 
tractive and commanding. It is situ- 
oil on the west fork of White River, 
ar the mouth of Fall Creek, 115 miles 
iithwest of Cincinnati, and 200 south- 



southeast of Chicago. It was selected 
for the State capital in 1820, at which 
time the whole region was a dense 
forest. Five years later, the public of- 
fices were removed hither from Corydon, 
and now broad, beautiful, and popu- 
lous streets, lined with costly and elegant 
edifices and dwellings, are every year 
spreading farther and farther over the 
great plain which surrounds the young 
city. 

The Railway Station here is an edifice 
of magnificent proportions, with a front- 
age of 350 feet. Some of the very many 
clmrches are imposing structures. The 
State-House is a fine building, 180 feet in 
length, ornamented on each side with a 
grand Doric portico, and suimounted by a 
noble dome. ThQ ^Court-Hojcse, the Ma- 
sonic Hall, and the Bates Hotel will at- 
tract the particular notice of the visitor 
here. Washington Street is a handsome 
thoroughfare, 120 feet in width, and con- 
tains the principal public buildings. 

Indianapolis is the seat of the Indiana 
Medical College, founded in 1849 ; here, 
too, is the State Lunatic Asylum, estab- 
lished in 1848. Estimated population, 
38,000. Trains run daily from the Union 
Depot over the following roads, viz. : 

Indianapolis and Madison JRailway, 
to Franklin (20 miles); Edinburg (30 
miles); Columbus (41 miles); North 
Vernon (62 miles^ ; Madison (86 miles), 
on the Ohio River, where it connects with 
the mail steamers. 

Indianapolis, Peru, and Chicago Rail- 
way, to Kokomo (54 miles) ; Chicago and 
Great Eastern Railroad crossing (55 
miles) ; Peru (75 miles), connecting with 
the Toledo, Wabash, and Western Rail- 
way. 

Indianapolis and Cincinnati Railway, 
to Shelbyville (26 miles) ; Greensburg 
(46 miles) ; Laurenceburg (90 lailes) ; 
Cincinnati (115 miles). 

Columhus and Indianapolis (Indiana 
Central) Railway, to Richmond (69 
miles); Urbana (141 miles); Milford 
(100 miles); Columbus, Ohio (188 miles). 

Bcllefontaine Railway (Indianapolis, 
Pittsburg, and Cleveland), to Union (84 
miles) ; Bcllefontaine (142 miles) ; Marion 
182 miles) ; Crestline (207 miles) ; Cleve- 
land (282 miles). 

2\rre HoMte and Indianaptolis Rail- 
183 



New Albany.] 



INDIANA. 



[Jeffeksonvjli 



way, to Greencastle (39 miles) ; Terre 
Haute CZS mDes), thence via St. Louis, 
Alton, and Terre Haute Railway, to Mat- 
toon (129 miles) ; Pana (168 miles) ; Al- 
ton (247 miles), and St. Louis (2*73 miles). 

Jeffersonville Line, to Columbus (41 
miles) ; Seymour (59 miles) ; Jefl'erson- 
ville (108 miles), where connection is 
made with steamers on the Ohio for 
Louisville, Cincinnati, etc. 

Layfayette and LidianapoUs Railway, 
to Lebanon (28 miles) ; Colfax (43 miles) ; 
stage to Frankfort, Lafayette (64 miles). 

The above roads and their connections 
afford communication between Indianap- 
olis and every portion of the Union. 

Ne>v Allsasay. — Hotel, the L)e 
Paw House 

New Albany, the second city of the 
State, is upon the Ohio lliver, four miles 
below Louisville, and two miles below 
the Falls. From Cincinnati it is distant 
136 miles. (See Cincinnati and Louis- 
ville for routes to those points.) It is 
the southern terminus of the Louisville, 
New Albany, and Chicago Railway, 
which extends 288 miles to Michigan 
City, on Lake Michigan, where it con- 
nects with the Michigan Central to Chica- 
go and the Northwest, and railways 
for Detroit, Niagara, and the Canadas, and 
with the Lake Shore line to New York, 
via Dunkirk and Buffalo. Steamboats ar- 
rive and depart continually for all land- 
ings on the Ohio and the Mississippi 
Elvers and their tributaries. The town 
was laid out in 1813. In 1860 its popu- 
lation numbered some 13,000, and it is 
now estimated at 18,700. The aspect of 
this city is very like that of most towns on 
the level prairie lands of the West, bi-oad, 
regular, v/ell-built, and agreeably shaded 
streets, with a general air of life and 
prosperity. It contains numerous fine 
church edifices and several good schools. 
Steamboat building is extensively carried 
on. The Collegiate LislUute and Theo- 
logical (Presbyterian) Seminary are flour- 
ishing institutions. 

Madisoia. — Hotel, Madison Hotel. 

Madison is upon the Ohio, 90 miles 
below Cincinnati ; 40 miles above Louis- 
ville ; and 86 miles southeast of Indian- 
apolis, by the Indiano.polis and Madison 
Railway, of which it is the southern ter- 
minus. From Cincinnati take the steam- 
184 



ers on the Ohio River, or the Ohio ami 

MississipjA Railway to Vernon, 73 niilr.~, 
and thence via Indianapolis and Madisui, 
Railway. The city is situated in a pleas- 
ant valley, of three miles' extent, shut in 
on the north by bold hills, 400 feet in 
height. It was first settled in 1808, ;iii(i 
now contains a population of neaily 
15,000. Steamboats are extensively built, 
owned, and run here. 

•ffeHei'soiiville, the southern ter- 
minus of the Jeffersonville Railway, is 
advantageously situated on the Ohio, 108 
miles south of Indianapolis, nearly op- 
posite the city of Louisville, of which, 
with tie adjacent falls, it commands a 
fine view. The river at this point is 
nearly a mile wide, and has a swift cur- 
rent. The Indiana Slate Prison is well 
worth visiting. Population, about 5,000. 

Fort 'Wayiae^ in the northeast ■ 
part of the State, is an important railway 
centre at the junction of the Pittsburg 
and Chicago with the Toledo and Wabash 
Railway. The St. Joseph's and St. Ma- 
ry's Elvers form the Maumee at this poitt, 
and the Wabash and Erie Canal comes in 
122 miles from Lafayette, and 112 miles 
from Indianapolis. Fort Wayne was the 
ancient site of the Twight-wee village of 
the Miami Indians. The fort, which gives 
its name to the town, was erected here in 
1794, by the command of General Wayne. 
It continued to be a military post until 
1819. The Miamis were not removed 
westward until 1841. Population 11,000. 

I'ei-re Miiiite, — Hotel, the Terre 
Haute House. 

Terre Haute, the seat of justice ot 
Yigo County, is on the east bank of the > 
Wabash lliver, near the western boun- 
dary of the State. The town is most 
pleasantly situated upon a bank 60 feet 
above the Wabash. Fort Harrison Prai- 
rie, which sweeps away to the eastward, 
is famous for its charming landscape. 
Pork, grain, and flour are largely export- 
ed by the Wabash, and Erie Canal, which, 
passes through the city. Eailway cou- 
nection with Indianapolis (73 miles) and 
St. Loui& (189 miles), by the Terre Haidc, 
Alton, and St. Louis Railway, The 
JEvccnt,ville and Crawfordsville Raihvay 
connects it with Evansville (109 miles), 
and with Eockville (23 miles). Popula- 
tion (estimated), 9,600. 



,i 



lATAYETXE.] 



INDIANA. 



[Richmond. 



! lii a fa, y e 1 1 e . — Hotel, Bramble 
louse. 

Lafayette is pleasantly situated upon 
ie Wabash River and the Wabash and 
rie Canal, at the intersection of the 
'.ouisville, New Albany, and CMcago 
Milroad with the Toledo and Wabash 
bad. It is 64 miles northwest of In- 
(anapolis, and 123 miles southeast of 
hicago, with both of which cities it has 
hmediate connection by rail. It is the 
pincipal grain market of the State. It 
as settled in 1825, and contains a popu- 

tion now estimated at nearly 12,000. 

Evams'^'ilie. — Hotel, the Pavilion 

yei. 

Evansville is upon the high bank of the 

lio, near the southwest extremity of the 

jate, 200 miles from the Mississippi, and 

e . same distance below Louisville, in 

ntucky. It is the southern terminus 

the Evansville and Crawford-iville Rail- 

"y and of the Wabash and Erie Canal, 

pleted in 1853. Among the most 

jlbminent buildings are the Cotirt-House, 

te Bank, Marine Hospital, and two or 

ee of the church edifices. Large 



shipments ot grain and pork, the pro- 
ducts of southeastern Indiana, are made 
here by steamboat. Flour is extensively 
milled here, and there are several large 
breweries. Population, 12,600. 

ISiclimoBisl is situated on a fork 
of Whitewater River, four miles from 
the Ohio State line, 69 miles from Indian- 
apolis, the capital, and '70 northwest of 
Cincinnati. It is a growing town, and 
has several flourishing manufactories of 
cotton, wool, iron, paper, and flour. The 
river furnishes abundant water-power, 
which is very generally taken advantage 
of by the inhabitants, for it has become 
the chief manufacturing town in the 
State. Richmond has ten or twelve 
churches, a public library, a branch of the 
State Bank of Indiana, two fire compa- 
nies, and a large number of retail stores. 
It is the centre of a rich and populous 
agricultural district, with which it does an 
active trade. The population is estimated 
at about 8,500. The Chicago and Great 
Easterii and Cincinnati, Eaton, and Mich- 
mond Railioays, connect here, and pass 
through the town. 

186 



Illinois."! 



ILLINOIS. 



[Illinois. 



ILLINOIS 



Illinois, the fourth State of the Union 
in population, and the first in the pro- 
duction of breadstuffs, extends north- 
ward 380 miles, and westward (at 
the extremest point) 200 miles. It is 
bounded by Wisconsin on the north. 
Lake Michigan and Indiana on the east, 
Kentucky on the south (the Oliio be- 
tween), and Missouri and Iowa on the west, 
the Mississippi River intervening. The 
general surface of the country here, as in 
Indiana and Ohio, is that of elevated 
table-lands, inclining southward, though 
it is more level than the neighboring 
States. In the lower portions there is a 
small stretch of hilly land, and some 
broken tracts in the northwest ; and upon 
the Illinois River there are lofty bluifs, 
and yet higher and bolder points on the 
Mississippi. 

The great landscape feature of Illinois 
is its prairies, which are seen in almost 
every section of the State. The want of 
variety, which is ordinarily essential to 
landscape attraction, is more than compen- 
sated for in the prairie scenery, as in that 
of the boundless ocean, by the impi'essive 
qualities of immensity and power. Far 
as the most seai-ching eye can reach, the 
great unvarying plain rolls on ; its sub- 
lime grandeur softened but not weakened 
by the occasional groups of trees in its 
midst, or by the forests on its verge, or 
by the countless flowers everywhere upon 
its surface. The prairies abound in game. 
The prairie duck, sometimes but im- 
properly called grouse, are most abun- 
dant in September and October, when 
large numbers are annually taken. 

Perhaps the most striking picture of 
the prairie country is to be found on 
Grand Prairie. Its gently undulating 
plains, profusely decked with flowers of 
every hue, and skirted on all sides by 
1S6 



woodland copse, roll on through mat 
long miles from Jackson County, north- 
east to Iroquois County, with a width 
varying from one to a dozen or more 
miles. The uniform level of the prairie 
region is supposed to result from the de- 
posit of waters by which the land was 
ages ago covered. The soil is entirely 
free from stones, and is extremely fertile. 
The most notable characteristic of the 
prairies, their destitution of vegetation, 
excepting in the multitude of rank 
grasses and floAvers, will gi-adually dis- ■ 
appear, since nothing prevents the growth 
of the trees, but the continual fires which 
sweep over the plains. These prevented, 
a fine growth of timber soon springs up; 
and as the woodlands are thus assisted 
in encroaching upon and occupying the 
plains, settlements and habitations will 
follow, until the prairie tracts are over- 
run with cities and towns. Of the thirty- 
five and a half millions of acres embraced 
within the State, but thirteen millions, or 
little more than one-third, were improved 
in 1860, showing that, despite her won- i 
derful progress in population and pro- i 
duction, she is yet only in her infancy. ; 
Excepting the specialty of the prairie, 
the most interesting landscape scenery of 
this State is that of- the bold, acclivitous 
river shores of the Mississippi, the Ohio, 
and the Illinois Rivers. 

The agricultural capabilities of Illi- 
nois are unsurpassed by those of any 
other State in the Union. The soil on 
the river bottoms is often 25 or 30 ■ 
feet deep, and the upper prairie districts • 
are hardly less productive. The richest ^ 
tracts in the State are the Great Amer- 
ican Bottom, lying along the Missis-:: 
sippi, between the mouths of the MiSr-; 
souri and the Kaskaskia Rivers, a stretch 
of 80 miles, the country on the Rock 



LLINOIS.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Illinois. 



[liver and its branches, and that around 
jiie Sangamon and other waters. Thirty 
40 bushels of wheat, or SO to 100 
lushels of Indian corn to the acre, is by 
means an uncommon product here. In 
le growth of Indian corn, Illinois ranks 
3 the first State in the Union. In re- 
ject to other agricultural staples and 
toducts, what we have said of the ad- 
jnning States of Ohio and Indiana, may 
? repeated of lUinois ; so of the forest- 

ees of the country. 

. In mineral resources the State is well 

ovided. She shares, with the adjoin- 

States of Iowa and Wisconsin, ex- 

sive supplies of lead. The trade in this 

jineral is the chief support of the pros- 

rous tov/n of Galena, in the northwest 

rt of Illinois. Forty million of pounds 
lead were shipped from that port in 

52. Bituminous coal exists every- 
"liere, and may be produced in many 
l|ices without excavation. The bluffs, 
ijar the Great American Bottom, con- 
ijn immense beds of this valuable pro- 
<jct. Mines are worked near Peoria, 
at many points on the line of the 

nois Ceniral Railroad. In the south- 
part of the State iron is said to be 
ndant ; and in the north, copper, 

c, lime, fine marbles, freestone, gyp- 
s;jn, and quartz crystals. Silver, too, is 
I'bwn to exist in St. Clair County. At 
Ipria, in the immediate vicinity of the 
cr, is a valuable spring, strongly im- 
pjlgnated with sulphur. 

iledicinal springs, sulphur and chalyb- 
eie, are found in various parts of the 
S^e. In Jefferson County there is a 
sjiing very much resorted to, and in the 
Si'them part of the State are some 
mers which taste strongly of Epsom 
sis. 

I'he Ifississippi forms the entire west- 
ei[ boundary of the State, and many of 
till most remarkable pictures, for which 
it;l upper waters are famous, occur in 
tlf region — the tall, eccentrically shaped 

■lis rising at different points to the 
1. l:t of from 100 to 500 feet. The Fonu- 
la Bluff oi the Mississippi is in Jackson 
Ccjaty ; it is oval-shaped, is six miles in 
Cipit, and SOOfeet in height. The sum- 
mis full of sink-holes. (See Mississippi 
B/er.) 



The Illinois, the largest river of the 
State, flows through its centre south- 
westerly into the Mississippi, 20 miles 
above Alton. Exclusive of its branches, 
the Des Plaines and the Kankakee, its 
length is about 320 miles. Its navigable 
waters extend at some seasons 206 miles 
to Ottawa, at the mouth of the Fox Eiver. 
Peoria is upon its banks, 200 miles from 
its mouth. 

The picturesque heights of the Illinois, 
called the Starved Hock, and the Lover''s 
Leap, are frequently visited by tourists 
in search of the curious. Starved Rock, 
eight miles below Ottawa, is a grand 
perpendicular limestone cliff, 150 feet 
in height. It was named in memory 
of the fate of a party of Illinois In- 
dians, who died on the rock from thirst, 
when besieged by the Pottavf atomies. 
Lover''s Leap is a precipitous ledge, just 
above Starved Hock, and directly across 
the river is Buffalo Mock, a height of 
100 feet. This eminence, though very 
acclivitous on the water side, slopes easily 
inland. The Indians were wont to drive 
the buffaloes in frightened herds to and 
over its fearful brink. Peoria Lalce is an 
expansion of the Illinois, near the middle 
of the State. Above Vermilion Eiver 
there are some rapids, wliich boats pass 
only in periods of high water. 

The Ohio bounds the State on its 
southern extremity. It is in this part of 
llhnois (Hardin County) that the famous 
Cave in the Bock of the Ohio shore oc- 
curs. (See Ohio Eiver.) 

The Wabash, on the eastern boundary, 
divides Illinois in the lower portion from 
Indiana. (See Indiana.) 

Bock Biver has its source in the neigh- 
borhood of Lake Winnebago, in Wiscon- 
sin, and flows a distance of SSO miles to 
the Mississippi, a little below the town 
of Eock Island. It enters Illinois near 
Beloit, and afterward passes Eockford 
and Dixon. Its course is through a rich 
valley or plain, remarkable for its pic- 
torial interest. The navigation of its 
waters is much obstructed by rapids ; for 
it is, unlike the sluggish Illinois, a bold, 
swift stream. Small steamboats ascend 
sometimes, however, 225. miles, to Jef- 
ferson, in Wisconsin. 

The Dts Plaines flows 150 miles from 



Chicago.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Chicago 



the southeast corner of Wisconsin to 
Dresden, where it unites with the Kan- 
kakee, and forms the IlUnois. 

The Kanhil-ee comes from the northern 
part of Indiana, 100 miles to Dresden. 
Its course is sluggish, and through a 
region chiefly occupied by prairies and 
mai'shes. This stream abounds in game, 
and during the duck-shooting season is 
much frequented by sportsmen from 
Chicago and neighborhood. 

The Sangamon enters the Illinois, 
about 10 miles above Beardstowm, after a 
course of neai'ly 200 miles. Small steam- 
ers ascend it at high water. 

The Fox River rises in Waukesha 
County, Wisconsin, and after passing the 
towns of Elgin, St. Charles, Geneva, Ba- 
tavia, and Aurora, falls into the Illinois 
at Ottawa. 

The Vermilion, the Emharras, and 
the lAttle Wabash, are tributaries of the 
Wabash from Illinois. 

Lake Michigan forms 60 miles of the 
northern boundary of the State. (See 
Lake Eegion.) Excepting the expansion 
of the Illinois River, called Lake Peoria, 
and the waters of Pishtaka, in the north- 
east, there are no lakes of importance. 

Railways abound in Ilhnois, as in all 
parts of the West. The railway system 
of Illinois, of which Chicago is the centre, 
embraces upward of 3,000 miles of track 
completed and in successful operation. 
In 1850 there were less than 50 miles of 
railroad completed in the entire State. 
(See Chicago, for railways diverging 
thence.) 

CHICAGO. 

Hotels. — The Tremont House and the 
Sherman House are the leading hotels of 
the city They are both admirably located 
and well kept. The latter, which is built 
of Athens marble, is an imposing edifice, 
with a frontage of 340 feet on Clark and 
Randolph Streets. It was erected in 1860, 
at a cost of $400,000. It is handsomely 
furnished, and has a vertical railway for 
the use of guests. The Richmond House, 
pleasantly situated on Michigan Avenue, 
at the intersection of South Water Street, 
and the Briggs House, on Randolph 
Street, corner of Wells, are large and 
well-appointed establishments. 
188 



The restaurants of the city, though 
numerous, are but indifferently kept 
That of Ambrose & Jackson, at 91 
Clark Street (dinners), is the best worthy 
of patronage. Kinsleifs, on Washing- 
ton Street, under the Opera-IIouse, has 
the best ice-creams and confectioneries. 
The main apartment, or refreshment- 
saloon, is admirably arranged and fur- 
nished. 

Conveyances, etc. — The street cars, p 
which were first introduced in 185'7-'58,.ii 
furnish the most ready means of visiting k 
the different portions of the city. There ii 
are twelve lines, running in the three. ■< 
divisions of the city, as follows : The n 
South Division, three lines, viz., the Cot- i 
tage Grove, Indiana A'^enue, and Thirty- > 
first Street, to Bridgeport. ; in the West 
Division five lines, viz., Randolph Street, 
Madison Street, Milwaukee Avenue, Hal- ' 
sted and Blue Island Avenue, and Clin- 
ton Street ; and in the North Division 
four lines, viz., to city limits, Chicago 
Avenue, Sedgwick Street, and Clybourne 
Avenue. 

The principal hack-stands are on Court- 
House Square, immediately opposite the 
Sherman House. The fares are regulated 
by law, being 50 cents for one passenger 
for all distances not exceeding one mile. 
Over one, and not exceeding two miles, 
one dollar. When hacks are engaged by 
the hour or day, the price should be 
agreed on before starting. Livery stables 
are numerous, and generally well stocked, 
and strangers will find it most satisfac- 
tory to order conveyances from them, as 
they will thus be saved frequent over-. 
charges and other annoyances. Wright' 
Brothers, 246 Kinzie Street, and George, 
Hall, 4*7 Wabash Avenue, have bothi 
good stables. 

Routes. — From New York. — To Buf- 
falo or Niagara Falls, by the New York 
and Erie or the Hudson River and Cen- 
tral Railways ; from Niagara, by the 
Great Western Railroad (Canada) to De- 
troit; and fromL'eti'oit, through Michigan, i 
by the Michigan Central Railroad, or from i, 
Buffalo, by the Lake Erie steamers, or the I 
Lake Shore Railway, via Erie, Cleveland, ' 
and Sandusky to Toledo, and thence by I 
the Michigan Southern route. Distance, i 
via Niagara Falls and Detroit, 963 miles; 
via Buffalo and Toledo, 986 miles. 



Chicago.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Chicago. 



From Philadelphia. — PeMnsi/hania, Cen- 
ral Railroad, 335 miles to Pittsburg; 
hence by PitUiurg, Fort Wayne, and 
Ihicago Railroad. Total distance, 823 
liles. 

From Baltimore. — Baltimore and Ohio 
Railway to Wheeling and Bellaire, and 
lence via Pittsburg and Fort Wayne. 

From New Orleans, via Jackson, Co- 

mbus, and Cairo, 914 miles. 
! From St. Louis, via Alton and Spring- 
eld, 280 miles. 

Chicago, the largest, most populous, 
jid most important city of Illinois, and 
»e commercial metropolis of the North- 
est, is situated on the western shore of 
fake Michigan, at the mouth of the 
licago River. By means of the latter, 
id the Illinois and Michigan Canal, it has 
intinuous communication with the Mis- 
Bsippi River, the Gulf of Mexico, and the 
icific Ocean, on the west, and with the 

ain of lakes, the St. Lawrence, and the 
tlantic Ocean, on the east. Probably no 
land city in the world possesses greater 

3ilities for commercial intercourse. 

The rapidity of its growth in popula- 

»n and trade finds no parallel either 

ancient or modern times. The history 
the city, though brief, is interesting, 

t only on account of the romantic inci- 
I nts of its early discovery and occupa- 

in, but as furnishing one of the most, 
jrliaps the most remarkable instance 
• I record of rapid, sustained, and perma- 
]bt growth. 

The first visitors to the site of the 
ipsent city were Joliet (Louis) and Mar- 
(ette (Jacques), who arrived August, 
][73. Point au Sable, a native of St. 
Imingo, followed in 1*796, but soon 
£[erward removed to Peoria. The first 
ji'manent settlement was made in 1804-, 
I Mr. John Kinzie, who moved hither 
fin St. Joseph, at that tune a mission- 
a^ station on the east side of Lake 
Ibhigan. On April ^ and August 12, 
112, the Indian massacre ocxiurred at 
I ft Dearborn, which resulted so disas- 
tlusly to the little garrison. 

It the close of 1830, Chicago con- 
tiied twelve houses and three suburban 
(' country ") residences on Madison Street, 
vfh a population, composed of whites, 
h'l-|jrceds, and blacks, numbering about 



100. The first map of the town, as sur- 
veyed by James Thompson, bears date 
August 4, 1830. 

Fort Dearborn was constructed in 
1804, rebuilt in 1816, and pulled down 
in 185*7. It stood near the head of Michi- 
gan Avenue, below its intersection with 
Lalie Street, and a little north of the 
present Marine Hospital building. 

The town was organized August 10, 
1833, incorporated as a city March 4, 
183Y, and the first election held May 1, 
183*7, so that it is now in its thirtieth year. 
The first vessel entered the harbor June 
11, 1834, and at the ofiicial census, taken 
July 1, 183*7, the entire population was 
found to be 4,1*70. Outside of Fort Dear- 
born, in 1833, were about 35 houses, 
mostly built of logs. The first frame 
building was erected in 1832, by George 
W. Dole, and the first brick house in 
1833. It was standing on Monroe Street, 
near Clarke, at a recent period. In 1843 
tlie population of the city had increased 
to 7,580; in 184*7 to 16,859; in 1850 to 
28,269; in 1855 to 80,023; in 1860 to 
109,263, and in 1865 to 1*78,539. Its 
present population, city and suburban, 
is estimated at 260,000. 

During the years 1856-'S*7, and '58 the 
entire business portion of the city was 
raised from three to eight feet above its 
former level, which has facilitated drain- 
age, and greatly improved its sanitary 
condition as well as commercial facilities. 

The site of the city is at present a 
gently inclined plane, the ground in the 
western part of the city, three miles from 
the lake, being from 15 to 18 feet above 
the level of the lake. The streets are 
generally 80 feet wide, and regularly 
built. They cross each other at right 
angles, and are for the most part paved 
with stone or with the Nicholson pave- 
ment. Many of them are from three to 
five miles in length. The Chicago River, 
and its two bi'anches, run through the 
city, dividing it into three nearly equal 
divisions, known as North, South, and 
West Chicago. Numerous bridges con- 
nect the main avenues of travel leading 
from the city proper to the Northern 
and Western Divisions. These divisions 
are subdivided into 16 wards, and con- 
tain 416 streets, avenues, and alleys. 
The river affords a harbor for the largest 
189 



Chicago.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Chicago 



vessels for more than five miles, at the 
entrance of which is a new iron light- 
house. Lake Street is the Broadway of 
Chicago; while Michigan Avenue and 
Wabash Avenue are distinguished by- 
princely edifices, and adorned with rows 
of luxui-iant trees. On South Water 
Street are situated many of the ware- 
houses and all the lai-ge wholesale stores. 
Many of the private residences on the 
north and west side of the river are 
handsomely built, and surrounded by 
highly ornamented or cultivated grounds. 

Chicago is the greatest primary grain- 
market in the world. The first shipment, 
consisting of 18 bushels of wheat, took 
place in 1838. In 1863 the exports 
of grain exceeded fifty-four millions of 
bushels, and m 1865 about the same 
amount was shipped. In 1865 nearly 
six hundred and fifty milhon feet of 
lumber were received. The provision 
trade is also very extensive and pros- 
perous. To those who would carry away 
with them a just estimate of the greatness 
of Chicago, a visit to the extensive grain 
elevators, cattle and lumber yards, and 
packing-houses, is necessary. These estab- 
Mshments, together with the railway 
stations, and the activity which every- 
where manifests itself in the industrial 
pursuits of its people, constitute the 
striking features of Chicago life. 

The immense elevators of Sturges, 
Buckingham & Co., Phnt & Thompson, 
and Munn & Scott, are well worthy a 
visit. The two latter have an aggre- 
gate capacity of two and a half million 
bushels. The total capacity of the 17 
elevators in the city is ten million fifty- 
five thousand bushels. 

The Union Stock Tai'ch embrace 345 
acres, laid out in streets and avenues, and 
provided with an abundant supply of water 
and every thing needful in the receiving 
and tending of stock. Nine of the rail- 
ways, terminating in Chicago, find a com- 
mon centre here. Fifteen milhon feet of 
lumber were used in constructing the 
flooring and pens, and the whole cost of 
construction thus far has reached one 
milhon dollars. The extensive breweries 
of the " Lill " and " Sands " companies 
are well worthy a visit. 

The best points of* observation in this 
Prairie or Garden City, as it is some- 
190 



times though inappropriately called, ar 
worthy of note. Tliey are tl;e C»un 
House Tower and the Sherman IIovs 
Observatory. 

Public Grounds, Buildings, etc- 
Chicago, though by no means densel 
populated even in its most crowded quai 
ters, has already several fine publi 
grounds and promenades. The mos 
attractive is the Esplanade, sometime 
called Lake Park, which extends alon 
the basin, on the east side of Michiga: 
Avenue, from Randolph Street to Pari 
Place. On summer evenings, the uppe 
end of this delightful promenade present 
an animated appearance. 

Dearborn Park is an enclosure of on 
and a half acres, near the north end o: 
the Esplanade. It is the oldest publi 
ground in the city. 

Union Fark.^ in the West Division 
contains an area of five and a half acre; 
well laid out, and ornamented with shadi 
trees. 

Jefi'erson Park, near Union Park, coi 
taining five acres, has several handsom 
residences around it. 

Lincoln Park, north of the City Cem( 
tery, on the lake shore, contains nearly 6 
acres, and is undergoing improvement: 
which wUl eventually make it the mo; 
attractive public ground in the West. 

The pi'hicipal public buildings areli 
cated in the very heart of the city, an 
are easily accessible. They are the C« 
tom-House and Post- Office, the Chamk 
of Commerce, Crosby''s Opera-Honse, tb 
Court-House, and the Armory. The B' 
pot of the Union or Central Railway i, 
also a fine building of immense extent. 

The Court-House is an iiiposing edific(' 
though architecturally defective. It i 
built of Lockport hmestone. It M'as con 
pleted in 1855, and occupies the mo.- 
central square in the city. The towe 
which is reached by a spiral stairwa; 
commands the best view to be had of tb 
city and lake. 

The Chamber of Com,merce, at tb 
corner of Washington and Lasalle Street: 
should be visited. It is of Athens ma : 
ble, in the modern ItaUan style, 181 fci 
long by 93 feet wide, and is justly _a( 
mired for its fine propoi'tions and finisl 
It was completed, August 1865, at 
cost, including the ground, of $400,00( 



Chicago.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Chicago, 



The Board of Trade Hall is a magnificent 
apartment, 143 feet in length, 85 feet 
wide, and 45 feet high, and lighted by 25 
windows, each 25 feet in height. The 
ceiling, etc., is I'ichly frescoed. The daily 
sessions of the Board, from 11 to 1 
o'clock, afford one of the characteristic 
sights of the city. The best hour for 
Strangers to visit it is 12 o'clock. Admis- 
sion to the balcony overlooking the hall. 

The Merchants' Exchange, incorporated 
February 16, 1865, is at 1*7 Dearborn 
Street. 

! The Ops^-a-Hotise is one of the most 
brominent and costly buildings in the 
fity. It stands on Washington Street, 
etween State and Dearborn, having a 
f-ont on the former of 140 feet, and run- 
ing back 1*79 feet. The building was com- 
leted in 1865, and cost $450,000. It 
b four stories high, and presents a chaste 
nd imposing appearance. Kinsley\'; Res- 
lurant and Confectionery, on the first 
oor, is the leading establishment of its 
ind in the city. 

Besides the pubUc buildings enume- 
ited above, the city contains 60 haUs, 
Ihich are used as lecture, concert, and 
;sembly rooms. The principal are 
ryan and Metropolitan HaUs. 
Among the public Avorks of the city 
lecially worthy of notice is the Lake 
fichiffan Tunnel for supplying the city 
^th water. Permits to visit it are 
fanted at the ofiice of the Water-works, 
^rner Chicago Avenue and Pine Street. 
lis fine work was commenced March 
1, 1864, and completed December, 1866. 
le depth of the shore shaft is 69 feet, 
d of the lake shaft 64 feet ; the whole 
jigth of the tunnel is two miles. The 
s;e terminus of the tunnel, known as 
■p " Crib," should be first visited. It is 
ipposed of timber securely bolted to- 
jther, and is 40 feet long, and pentag- 
<!al in form. Upward of 600,000 feet 
<! timber, 2,000 bolts, and 400 bales of 
(lium, costing nearly $100,000, were 
1 2d in its construction. Upon the top 
(this structure a permanent hghthouse 
i|ito be erected. The tunnel is nearly 
ular in form, being 5 feet 2 inches in 
^lit, and 5 feet wide. It is enclosed 
ii brick masonry, 8 inches thick. The 
aual excavation was about seven feet, 
rjuiring the removal of nearly 16,000 



cubic yards of earth, principally clay. 
About four millions of bricks were used in 
the construction of the tunnel. The bot- 
tom of the lake shaft is 66 feet below the 
ordinary level of the lake, and the bot- 
tom surface of the tunnel descends west- 
ward to the shore shaft, at the rate of 
two feet per mile. The contract price 
for the work was $315,189, but the 
whole cost, inclusive of the lighthouse 
and improvements to the present works, 
will probably reach $1,000,000, The con- 
tractors for this great work were Messrs. 
Dull and Gowan, of Harrisburg, Pa. E. 
S. Chesbrough, City Engineer. 

The work of deepening the Illinois and 
Michigan Canal, so as to turn the current 
of the Chicago River from Lake Michigan 
into the Illinois and Mississippi Elvers, 
was commenced in 1865, and will be 
completed, it is thought, in 1868, at 
a cost of two million dollars. When 
this great work is finished, Chicago will 
be one of the best-cleansed as well as 
best-watered cities on the continent. 

If the visitor is desirous to pursue his 
hydropathic and sanitary investigations 
further, he ought to visit the famous 
Artesian Wells. They are situated at 
the intersection of Chicago and Western 
Avenues, about S|- miles west of the 
Court-House, and are easily reached by 
the cars on West Randolph Street. The 
Wells are respectively 911 and 694 feet 
deep, and flow about twelve hundred 
thousand gallons daily. A third well 
was commenced, with the 'view of ob- 
taining oil, but work on that^has been 
suspended for the present^ 

Churches, etc. — The church edifices 
of Chicago number 112, and the ceme- 
teries 12. Of the former the following 
are the most noteworthy: The Mrsf 
Baptist Church, one of the most spacious 
and costly edifices of its kind in the city, 
is on Wabash Avenue, at the corner of 
Hubbard Court. It is of Athens marble, 
in the early English style. It is 165 feet 
by 112, and has sittings for 2,000 persons. 
The tower is 230 feet high. The organ 
is large, and cost $12,000. The total 
cost of the church was $1*75,000. 

The First and Second Prcshytericm 

Churches, also on Wabash Avenue, are 

striking edifices. The first, which is near 

Van Bureii. Street, is one of the largest 

191 



Chicago.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Chicago, 



church edifices in the city. It was com- 
pleted in 1853, and cost "8100,000. The 
latter, which is built of bituminous lime- 
Btone, presents a unique and venerable 
appearance, though scarcely fifteen years 
old. The Clmrch of the Afessiah (Unita- 
rian), on Wabash Avenue and Hubbard 
Court, is a handsome Norman edifice. 
Its windows (stained glass), and hand- 
somely frescoed ceihng, are in keeping 
with the architectural design of the build- 
ing, which borders on the Romanesque. 

Of the Episcopal churches, Triiiity, on 
Jackson Street ; St. James's^ corner Hu- 
ron and Cass Streets ; and Chrisfs, corner 
Michigan Avenue and Twenty-fourth 
Street, are the most prominent. The 
Mshop\s Chapel is a smaU edifice of gray 
stone in the Gothic cruciform style, at 
the corner of West Washington and 
Peoria Streets. The interior is richly 
decorated. 

Of the cemeteries, Graceland, Rose- 
hill, and Calvary, in the North Division, 
are the most interesting. The last two 
are on the line of the Chicago and Mil- 
waukee Railway. Oakwoods, on Vin- 
cennes Road, three miles south of the 
southern limits, is also a pretty rural 
spot. The office of the Rose-hill Ceme- 
tery is at 82 Ijake Street, where tickets 
of admission are issued. 

Educational Institutions, etc. — The 
Universily of Chicago should be visited, 
if the traveller have time. It was found- 
ed by the late Senator Douglas, and was 
first opened-for instruction in 1858. It 
occupies a beautiful site, overlooking 
Lake Michigan, at Cottage Grove, four 
miles south ot the Court-House, and is 
readily reached by the State Street cars. 
The main, central building, 136 by 1*72 
feet, was completed in 1866, at a cost of 
$110,000. The south wing has recently 
been added. When the whole edifice is 
finished, it will be one of the most com- 
modious and elegant buildings in the 
West. 

i The Dearborn Observatory (tower), 
which adjoins the University on the west, 
contains the Clarke telescope, said to be 
one of the largest and best-constructed 
instruments in the country. The object- 
glass has. a focal length of 23 feet. 

The Chicago Theological Seminary, 
when completed, wEl be one of the most 
192 



noteworthy institutions of the city. Tha 
building, now in course of erectionj 
stands on the west side of Union Squar^ 
at the intersection of Reuben and War- 
ren Streets. It will have a frontage on i 
the park of 155 feet, and be in the Nor-.^ 
man style of architecture. It will con«!ii 
tain a chapel, library, and lecture-roomaii 
Estimated cost, $100,000. | 

Lake Forest University, as the namei 
imphes, is located at the village of Lake 
Forest, on the line of the Chicago and 
Milwaukee Railway, 28 miles north of 
Chicago, and 1 miles south of Wauke-i 
gan. 

The University of St. Mary of the! 
Lake, founded in 1843 by Bishop Quar-i 
ters, is an unpretending structure in the! 
North Division, on North State, corner oii 
Superior Street. 

The Presbyterian Tlieological Seminm-y, 
founded in 1859, has a fine building re-j 
cently erected at the corner of FuUerton 
Avenue and Halsted Street. It is fiv«i 
stoi'ies high, and contains a fine hbrary. ,. 

Chicago also contains three medical- 
colleges, the most noteworthy of whichi 
is the Rush Medical College, founded in 
1842, and located at the corner of North 
Deariaorn and Indiana Streets ; 3 Oomn 
mercial Colleges, 24 Roman Catholic con-i 
vents and schools, and 27 public schools. 
The latter, which are under the charge' 
of a superintendent (office, 76 Lasalle 
Street), give instruction to 80,000 pupil^i 
and are many of them worth visiting, 
The High School stands on Monroe Street, > 
between Halsted and Desplaines Streetsji 
and Dearborn School, erected in 1844fl 
and the oldest now standing, is on Madi-v 
son between State and Dearborn Streets. 

Among the purely literary and scientific 
institutions the Academy of Sciences and 
the Historical Society are best wortb 
visiting. The former was organized ii 
1856, and mcorporated in 1865. Tht' 
rooms of the society occupy the uppeii 
part of the Metropolitan block, comer of 
Randolph and LasaUe Streets, and con 
tain 38,000 specimens in the several de 
partnients of natural history. The His 
torical Society, organized April, 1856 
under the zealous and efficient manage ^ 
ment of the secretary. Rev. Wm. Barry 
has made rapid progress in its collection! 
within the past few years. The hbrar 



193 



192 



HICAGO.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Chicago. 



pw numbers upward of 85,000 bound 
bd unbound books and pamphlets. The 
istorical department of the collection 
nbraces many extremely rare and valu- 
jle works, and constitutes by far the 
Dst valuable collection, pubhc or pri- 
ito, in the Northwest. A day or two 
ay be profitably spent by the traveller 
examining the shelves of this fine li- 
my, which has recently been placed m 
e new building of the society, on the 
)rthwest corner of Dearborn and On- 
rio Streets, North Division. 
The Libi'ary of the Young Men\<i Asso- 
■xtion is in the Portland Block, corner of 
ashington and Dearborn Streets. It 
imbers about 10,000 volumes. 
The Law InsUhde, incorporated in 
57, has a collection of upward of 7,000 
lumes. 

Among the Charitable and Benevo- 
NT Ikstitutions worthy a visit are the 
nited States Marine Ho^j^iial, occupying 
prominent locale on Michigan Avenue, 
; ittle south of the site of Old Fort Dear- 
'ijrru The building has been sold, and 

!" now used for commercial purposes. 
}ok County Hospital^ erected in 1866, 
I the corner of Eighteenth and Arnold 
:'eets ; the Magdaltn Asyhini^ on North 
3 irket Street ; the Protestant Orphan 
\yhim, corner of Michigan Avenue and 
enty-second Street ; the Home for 
Friendless, 911 Wabash Avenue, and 
JosejiKs (male) and St. Mary's (fe- 
ille) Orphan Asylums, North State cor- 
of Superior. The two last-named 
titutions are under the charge of the 
ters of Mercy. 

The Soldier^s Home, organized in 1863, 
h a spacious building, just completed, 
a a cost of $30,504. "it is at Cottage 
( 3ve (Fairview), and can be visited, in 
emection with the University and the 
Ijuglas Monument. 

\musemexts, etc. — Croshy's Opcra- 
luse (see Public Buildings). 
fc VicJcers''s Tlieah-e, on Madison Street, 
he oldest and most popular theatrical 
eiiblishment in the city. Jiice^s Theatre, 
tl first " temple of the drama " erected 
ti Chicago, stood on Randolph, between 
I'k and Dearborn Streets. It was a 
)den structure, erected in 1847, and 
ing been destroyed by fire, was re- 
in 1850, and occupied as a theatre 



till 1858, when it was remodelled and 
used as stores. The present edifice (Mc- 
Vickers's) is a spacious and well appoint- 
ed building, opened October 5, 1857. It 
cost $93,000, and has sittings for 1,800 
persons. 

Wood\s ihiseitm, on Randolph Street, 
east of Clark (curiosities and dramatic 
performances). 

Academy of Music, Washington, be- 
tween Clark and Dearborn Streets (Ethi- 
opian minstrelsy). 

The German Theatre, corner of Wells 
and Indiana Streets. 

The Variety Tlieatre, 115 and 117 Dear- 
born Street, is a smaller dramatic estab- 
hshment. 

The rooms of the Chicago Chess-Club 
are in Portland Block, Dearborn, corner 
Washington Street. Admission by intro- 
duction. Those visiting Chicago daring the 
winter season will find the Skating-Ponds, 
or " Rinks," among the attractions of the 
place. The most desirable resorts of this 
character are the Washington Park and 
Wabash Avenue Pinks. One of the 
greatest attractions of Chicago, combi- 
ning as it does three of its leading ob- 
jects of interest, is Cottage Grove. This 
pleasant resort is situated on the edge of 
Lake Michigan, directly south of the city, 
four miles from the Tremont and Sher- 
man Houses, and, as already stated, is 
reached by the city cars, on State Street, 
from the intersection of Lake. Here 
are located the University, the Soldier's 
Home, and the Douglas Monument, the 
two first-named of which have already 
been described. 

The Potiglas Monument occupies a 
site formerly owned by Mr. Douglas him- 
self. The tract, one acre in extent, was 
purchased from Mrs. Douglas for the sum 
of $30,000. The monument consists of 
a circular base, 52 feet in diameter, a 
pedestal, 21 feet high, and column of 43 
feet, surmounted by a sphere, upon 
which it is pi'oposed to place a bronze _ 
statue of Douglas, 12 feet high. The en- 
tire height of the monument, when com- 
pleted, will be 100 feet, and the cost 
$75,000. It is from designs of L. W. 
Volk, of Chicago. 

The railway system, of which Chicago 
is the centre, embraces 15 main lines and 
branches, with an aggregate length of 
l93 



Chicago.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Springfield. 



4,725 miles. Upward of 100 trams ar- 
rive and depart daily. The roads run- 
ning East are : 

The Michigan Central Railway^ to De- 
troit, 284 miles, from Central Depot. 

The Michigan Southern and Northern 
Indiana Railway, to Toledo and Detroit, 
with branches to Monroe, Adrian, and 
Jackson. Total length, 535 miles. De- 
pot, Sherman, corner Van Buren Street. 

The Pittsburg, Fort Wayne, and Chi- 
cago Railway, to Pittsburg, 468 miles. 
Depot, corner Madison and Canal Streets. 

The Chicago and Great Eastern Rail- 
way, to Cincinnati, 294 miles. Depot, 
corner of Canal and Kinzie Streets. 

Westward : 

The Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy 
Railway, to BurUngton, 204 mUes, and 
Quincy, 265 miles. Total length of line 
and branches, 400 miles. From Central 
Depot. 

The Chicago and Rock Island Railivay, 
to Rock Island, 182 miles. Depot, cor- 
ner Van Buren and Sherman Streets. 

The Chicago and Northwestern Rail- 
way, to Freeport (121 miles), Fulton 
(138 miles), and Boonesboro, Iowa (342 
miles). Depot, corner Canal and Kinzie 
Streets. 

Southward : 

The Illinois Central Railway, to Cairo 
(865 miles), and from Dunleith to Cen- 
traha (343 miles). Total length, 708 
miles. From Central Depot. 

The Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis 
Railway, to St. Louis, 281 miles. Depot, 
corner of Madison and Canal Streets. 

Northward : 

The Chicago and Milwaukee Railway, 
to Milwaukee, 85 miles. Depot, corner of 
Canal and West Kinzie Streets. 

The Chicago and Northioestern Rail- 
way, to Fort Howard, 242 miles. Boat 
on Green Bay to Escanaba, 372 miles ; 
Marquette, 447 miles. 

Branch, Chicago to Madison, 138 
, miles. 

Branch, Chicago to Geneva Lake, 85 
miles. 

Several steamship lines ply betv/een 
Chicago and the various ports on Lakes 
Michigan, Superior, and Huron. The pi'in- 
cipal are the Lake Superior line (A. T. 
Spencer, agent), and Goodrich's Lake 
Shore line, the office of which is on the 
194 



dock, south side, near Rush Street 
bridge. 

The offices of the principal express 
and telegraph lines are on Lake and 
Lasalle Streets, with branches at the 
leading hotels. 

The British Consulate in Chicago is 
No. 30 Reynolds's Block, on Dearborn 
and Madison Streets. 

^pB-img-lield.. — Hotels: The Le- 
land House, just opened, is one of the 
best houses in the State. The -S*^. Nieho- > 
las is also a good house, but of smaller 
capacity, near the railway station. 

Springfield, the State capital, and the 
seat of justice of Sangamon County, lies 
southwest of the centre of the State, 
near the Sangamon River, upon the con- 1 
fines of a beautiful praii-ie district, 97 
miles north-northeast of St. Louis, and i 
188 miles southwest of Chicago. It was 
laid out in 1822. In the centre of the 
city is a square, occupied by the State 
Cajntol and other pubUc edifices, and 
compassed by spacious and elegant 
streets. Springfield was the residence 
and is now the burial-place of Abraham 
Lincoln, late President of the United 
States. 

Oak Ridge Cemetery, two miles north i 
of the city, is a picturesque rural burying- 
ground. It embraces 72 acres, and was 
laid oft" in May, 1856. Six acres, near thoi 
southeastern extremity of the ceme* 
tery, are set apart for the purposes of the 
National Lincoln Monument Association. 
It is estimated that the monument will 
cost $250,000. The vault in which the 
remains of the late lamented President and 
his two young sons, Eddie and Willie, are' 
temporarily placed, crowns the summit of 
a little hill facing the northeast. It is of 
brick, with stone copings, and about ten 
feet high. The names of upward of 30,- 
000 visitors have already been registered 
in the curator's book. 

The Springfield High School, establish- 
ed in 1818, is worthy a visit. The new- 
building, on the corner of Madison and 
Fourth Streets, is a fine four-story brick 
building, just completed, at a cost oi 
$75,000. The hall, on the fourtli floor, 
has sittings for 600. The pupils numbei 
160, and are under the charge of Williaia 
M. Baker, principal. 

The Great Western Railway ninfi 



Peoria.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Alton. 



througli Springfield, intersecting the 
Chicago, Alioji, and St. Louis Kailway, 
and connecting Springfield with Toledo 
on the east, and with Quincy, Keokuk, 
and Central Iowa on the west. Next to 
the State-House, the most prominent 
buildings are the Court-House, Arsenal, 
and one or two churches. There is a 
theatre, and a commodious lecture and 
concert hall. Some of the private resi- 
dences in the southern part of the city are 
conspicuous for their size and elegance. 
From the observatories of the Leland 
House and the State-House extended 
[views are to be obtained. Population, 
estimated at 15,000. 

l®eoa*ia.. — Hotel, Peoria House. 

Peoria lies northwest of the centre of 

the State, upon the Illinois River, at the 

outlet of Peoria Lake. It is 161 miles 

from Chicago, by the Chicago and Rock 

^dand Hailwai/. It has direct commu- 

ication with Logansport, Indiana, and 

ith all important points in Illinois and the 

djoining States. Distance from Rock 

sland, 11-i miles; from Springfield, 70 

iles north ; from St. Louis, 16Y miles. 

Peoria is the most populous place 

pon the Illinois River, and commer- 

bially one of the most important in 

the State. It is situated upon rising 

ground, a broad plateau, extending back 

from the bluff and the river expanding 

nto a broad, deep lake. This lake is the 

most beautiful feature in the scenery of 

Peoria, and as useful as it is beautiful, 

for it supplies the inhabitants with ample 

stores of fish, and in winter with abun- 

iance of purest ice. It is often frozen to 

mch a thickness that heavy teams can 

jass securely over it. A substantial 

Irawbridge connects the town with the 

opposite shore. The city is laid out 

ih rectangular blocks, the streets being 

Ivide and well graded. The schools and 

Bhurches are prosperous, and the society 

rood. A public square has been reserved 

icar the centre. Back of the town extends 

me of the finest rolling prairies in the 

?tate, which already furnishes to Peoria 

ts supplies and much of its business. 

?eoria was first visited by Joseph Mar- 

niette and M. Joliette in 1673. The second 

asit was by Robert Chevalier de la 

5aUe, accompanied by Louis Hennepin 

^nd M. Tonti, in 1680. They proceeded 



thither in the " Griffin," built near Black 
Rock, on the Niagara River. Their route 
was up the St. Joseph River, across to 
Kankakee, thence dov/n the Illinois River 
to " Pieddu lac Pemiteouii " (Lake Peo- 
ria). "Creve-Cosur " — Broken Heart — the 
name given to a fortification erected by 
La Salle, stood on the southeastern side 
of the river, about three miles distant 
from the present city of Peoria. Port 
St. Louis was built by La Salle, in 1683, 
on a detached bluff, seven miles below 
the city of Ottawa, known to early set- 
tlers as "Starved Rock." Fort Clark, 
erected in 1813, under Governor Ninian 
Edwards, was destroyed by Indians in 
1819. The population, in 1860, amounted 
to 14,425 ; m 1866, to 17,460. The his- 
tory of the present town dates from 1819. 
It was incorporated in 1844. 

Altosa. — Hotel, the Alton House. 
Alton is upon the Mississippi, 23 miles 
above St. Louis, on the Terre Haute and 
Alton Railway, 174 miles from Terre 
Haute, 247 from Indianapolis, 257 miles 
below Chicago, and 72 below Springfield, 
by the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis line. 
The Missouri enters the Mississippi three 
miles below Alton, contributing greatly 
to the commercial value of its jjosition. 
It possesses one of the best landings on 
the great river. The present city, of 
about 11,000 people, has grown up since 
1882, at which time the Penitentiary was 
established here. The Penitentiary has 
since been removed to Joliet. Upper 
Alton is the seat of the Shurtleff (Bap- 
tist) College. It is also the seat of the 
diocese of the Roman Catholic Church 
for Southern IlUuois, and has a fine 
cathedral. Limestone and stone-coal 
abound in the vicinity. Lime is shipped 
in large quantities. 

Clialjacy. — Hotel, the Quincy House. 
Quincy is on the Mississippi, 170 miles 
above St. Louis, and 104 miles west of 
Springfield ; 265 miles from Chicago, by 
the Chicago and Burlington road, 100 
miles from Galesburg. By these lines 
Quincy is connected also with Galena, 
Rock Island, Peoria, and other cities. 
The town is built upon a limestone bluii". 
125 feet above the river, in the vicinity 
of a fertile, rolling prairie. It contains a 
fine square, court-house, and two hand- 
uome church edifices. 

195 



NAnvoo.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[JOLIET. 



Rock Island. — Hotels, tlie 
Fanshaio House ; the Fuller House. 
Rock Island is two miles above the 
mouth of the Rock River, on the Missis- 
sippi, opposite Davenport, Iowa, at the 
foot of the upper rapids, wliich extend 
15 miles. It is the State terminus of the 
Mock Island Railroad, on the great high- 
way of travel from the Eastern States 
via Chicago (182 miles) to Iowa and the 
Far West ; 56 miles east of Iowa City. 
This city is named after a large island 
near by, which is much resorted to dur- 
ing the summer months. A bridge con- 
nects it with Davenport. It is a pictu- 
resque and most thi-iving place. The 
Island House. 

Pea'ii. — Hotel, Aloore's. 

Peru is in Lasalle County, upon the Illi- 
nois River, and the Chicago and Kock 
Island Railway at its intersection with 
the Illinois Central road. From Chicago, 
100 miles ; from Rock Island, 82 miles. 
The Illinois and Michigan Canal termi- 
nates near Peru. The town is' very ad- 
vantageously situated, with ready and 
general railway access,' and at the head of 
ordinary navigation on the Illinois River. 
Population, 4,500. 

Naiivoo is on the Mississippi River, 
at the second and last rapids below the 
Falls of St. Anthony, which extend up 
the river about 12 miles. It is 52 miles 
above Quincy, and 220 above St. Louis. 
(For routes, see Quincy and Burlington.) 
This is the site of the famous Mormon 
city, which was founded in 1840 by ''Joe 
Smith " and his followers, and once con- 
tained a population of 18,000. It is lo- 
cated on a bluffy but is distinguished from 
every thing on the river bearing that 
name by an easy, graceful slope, of very 
great extent, rising to an unusual height, 
and containing a smooth, regnilar surface, 
which, with the plain at its summit, is 
sufficient for the erection of an immense 
city. Nauvoo was laid out on a very ex- 
tensive plan, and many of the houses 
were handsome structures. The great 
Mormon Temple, an object of attraction, 
and seen very distinctly from the river, 
was 128 feet long, 88 feet wide, 65 
feet high to the top of the cornice, and 
163 feet to the top of the cupola. It 
would accommodate an assemblage of 
1S6 



3,000 persons. The architecture, al- 
though of a mixed order, in its main fea- 
tures resemljled Doric. It was built of 
compact, polished limestone, obtained on 
the spot, resembling marble. In the ! 
basement of the temple was a basin, 15 
feet high, supported by 12 oxen of colos- ; 
sal size, cut in stone. In this font the ! 
Mormons were baptized. This build- 
ing, without an equal in the West, and 
worth half a million of dollars, was fired 
by an incendiaiy, on the 9th of October, 
1848, and reduced to a heap of ruins, 
Joe Smith and a number of his followers 
were arrested, and confined in the county • 
prison, where, in June, 1844, they were • 
put to death by a mob, disguised and I 
armed. Expelled from Illinois by force ■ 
of arms, the Mormon community removed I 
to their present settlements in Utah. In ■ 
May, 1850, a company of French social- 
ists (Icarians), led by M. Etienne Cabet, 
established themselves here, but have 
since been dispersed. 

•ffollet, the capital of Will County, , 
is pleasantly situated at the intersection i 
of the Chicago and Rock Island and I 
Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Railways, 
40 miles from Chicago by the former and ' 
37 miles by the latter line. The Des- - 
plaines River and the Illinois and Michi- 
gan Canal pass through the city, and I 
afi:brd fine manufacturing power. The •■ 
State Ptniientiary is an imposmg edified • 
of gray limestone, quarried in the vicini- 
ty. One million dollars were expended I j 
in its construction. Population, about l 
10,000. \ \ 

Otta'^va, the capital of Lasalle ;, 
County, stands on the Illinois River, near - 
the mouth of the Fox River, and on the \ 
Chicago and Rock Islaoid Railway, 84 : 
miles from Chicago. It is lighted with 
gas, and contains some handsome build- 
ings. A fall of neai'ly 30 feet in the Fox 
River affords fine manufacturing privi- \ 
leges. Coal is extensively mined in the . 
vicinity. The population exceeds 10,000. ■ . 
Bjasalte, named after the early ex- - 
plorer of the Illinois River and State, is '. 
the terminus of the Illinois and Michigan i 
Canal, 100 miles long, which connects 
the navigable waters of the river with 
Lake Michigan, at Chicago. It is reached 
from that city by the Rock Island Rail- 



&ALENA.] ILLINOIS. 

way. Coal and zinc are among the prin- 
jipal exports. Population, between four 
md five thousand. 

Sloomirag'toin, the thriving capi- 
al of McLean County, is pleasantly situ- 
ited near the centre of the State, in the 
aidst of a ricli farming region. It is 126 
ailes south of Chicago, by the Chicago, 
ilton, and St. Loins Railway, which in- 
ersects the Illinois Central road from 
kmleith to Cairo, two miles north of tlie 
pwn. The State Normal University and 
le Wesleyan University are well worthy 
\ I visit. The former is an imposing edi- 
Ice, erected in ISSY-'SS, at a cost of 

Noo,ooo. 

Aiii'ora, a thriving town in Kane 
lounty, is pleasantly situated on the Fox 
iver and tiie Chicago, Burlington, and 
kcinci/ Raihvay, 40 miles west of the 
■st-named citj'. Tlie Fox River affords 
JDundant water-power, and Aurora is be- 
»ming a place of extensive manufac- 
res. The workshops of the Chicago, 
irlington, and Quincy road are located 
The City Hall is a fine edifice, 
jpulation, nearly 10,000. 
Cralcua, the capital of Jo Daviess 
)unty, is one of the oldest as well as the 
Dst interesting towns in the State. It is 
iched from Chicago (1'72 miles) by the 
Jena division of the JVorthwestern liail- 
■ly, and from St. Louis (450 miles) by 
; ckets on the Mississippi Eiver. It is 
i uated on Fevre Kiver, six miles from its 
tjtrance into the Mississippi, in the ex- 
Ime northwestern corner of the State, 
Id mile? north of Cairo, with which it 
]js daily connection by the Illhiois Cen- 
kl Railway. The city, which is built on 
if slope and summit of a rocky ledge of 
•asiderable altitude, pi-esents a very 
iique appearance, and commands ex- 
sive and varied views. The town owes 
ill growth to the production and shipment 
cljthe lead mined in the vicinity. A visit 
tone or more of these mines and the 
sj'accnt furnaces will repay the traveller, 
lipulatiou of the city in 1860 was 8,200, 
Mich has since been increased to nearly 
IjOOO. 

jKaleslmrg', in Knox County, is a 
tiiving city on the Chicago, Burlington, 
dl Qiiincy road, 165 miles southwest of 
Cicago, and 53 miles west-northwest of 
1 iria. It has several fine educational 



[Freepout. 



institutions, among the most prominent of 
which are Knox College and Lonihard Col- 
lege. Population, 8,200. 

"l^aiilceg-Esn (formerly called Liltle- 
fort) is delightfully situated on the western 
shore of Lake Michigan, 35 miles north 
of Chicago, and 50 miles south of Mil- 
waukee by rail. The residence portion 
of the village is built on a bluff, nearly 
50 feet from the level of the lake, which 
is here upward of YO miles wide, and 
commands attractive views. It con- 
tains a lecture-hall, nev/spaper {Gazette) 
office, and several good stores ; and being 
a remarliably healthy place, is much re- 
sorted to by Chicago families during the 
summer months. Population, 5,000. 
Evanston, Glcncoe, LaJce Forest, and Rock- 
land are pleasant summer residence spots 
suburban to Chicago, and located on the 
line of the Chicago and Milwaukee road, 
between the former city and Waukegan. 

Evanston, 10 miles north of Chicago, is 
the seat of the Northwestern University 
and a flourishing Female College, founded 
in 1855. The village was laid out in 
1852-53, and is named after Dr. John 
Evans, ex-Governor of Colorado. 

F'l-eeport, the capital of Stephen- 
son County, is a thriving town on the Pe- 
katonica River at the junction of the 
Chicago and Galena, the Jllinois Central, 
and Western Union Raihvays, 121 miles 
west of Chicago, 51 miles south of Ga- 
lena, and 6*7 miles from Dunleith. It con- 
tains a good hotel, several handsome 
churches, and three newspaper ofiices. 
Present population (estimated), 8,600. 

ISocIcloi-d, one of the most at- 
tractive and flourishing cities of Illinois, 
is delightfully located on the east and 
west banks of the Rock River, nearly 
midway between Chicago (92 miles) and 
Dunleith, being I'cached from either city 
by rail in four hours. The river supplies 
it with a fine water-power, which has iDcen 
greatly improved. The county buildings 
are commodious. Laid out in 1834-35, it 
now contains nearly 9,000 inhabitants. 

ll>isoBa, also on Rock River, is 
readied by the Chicago and Northwestern 
Raihcay, 98 miles from Chicago. The 
Central road intersects the Northwestern 
at this point. A branch of the North- 
ivestern road extends 73 miles to Kenosha, 
Wisconsin. 

19V 



Jacksonville.] 



ILLINOIS. 



[Cairo. 



Jaclfsoiaville, the capital of Mor- 
gan Couuty, is pleasantly situated in the 
midst of a "fertile prairie, near the Moi-e.sta 
Creek, 82 miles west of Springfield by 
the Great Western Rallwai/. The town is 
noteworthy for the prominence of its 
public ))uildings and educational and 
charitable institutions. The Illinois Col- 
lege, founded in 1830, occupies a com- 
manding locale and is in a flourishing 
condition. It has a library of 5,000 vol- 
umes. 

The Blind, Insane, and Deaf and Dumh 
Asylums are spacious edifices, each lo- 
cated about a mile from the municipal 
centre. The streets are generally wide 
and adorned with shade-trees. Popula- 
tion, '7,528. 

l>ecatM.i*, the capital of Macon 
County,_is at the intersection of the Cen- 
tral and Great WeMern Eailmaiis, 40 
miles east of Springfield, and 44 miles 
Bouth of Bloomington. Population, about 
6,000. 



Cairo is situated at the southern ex- 
tremity of the State, on a promontory 
formed by the confluence of the Ohio and 
Mississippi Rivers. The town- lies low, 
and formerly suffered much from inunda- 
tions caused by the periodical rise in these 
great rivers ; but a levee, erected some 
years ago at cost of $1,000,000, has 
greatly protected it and added to the 
growth and prosperity of the place. 
Steamboats plying between St. Louis, 
Cincinnati, and New Orleans call here, 
and during the late military and naval 
operations on the Mississippi River it oc- 
cupied considerable prominence as a depot 
and shipping port. A steam packet, 
plying between Columbus (Ky.) and 
Cairo, forms the connecting link in the 
chain of railway communication by the 
Mobile and Ohio and Illinois Central 
Railways between New Orleans and Chi- 
cago. Population (estimated), 4,300. 
The St. Charles is the leading hotel. The 
International. 



ISSOUKI.] 



MISSOURI. 



[M1SSO0E1 



MISSOUEI 



jMissouri formed part of the ancient 
iiritory of Louisiana., purchased by the 
hited States from France. It is one of 
|e largest of the United States, being 
miles long, and nearly 280 miles 

de, and embraces an area of 43,000,000 
res. It was the first State formed wholly 

St of the Mississippi. A settlement 
llled Fort Orleans was made within its 

its by the French in 1719. The oldest 
n in the State, St. Genevieve, was 

nded in 1*755. St. Louis was com- 

nced in 1764. The State was visited 
1811 and in 1812 by a memorable 

■ies of earthquakes, which occurred in 
vicinage of New Madrid. The face 

the country was greatly altered by 
|ose events ; hills entirely disappeared, 
ies were obliterated, and new ones 

med. The waters of the Mississippi 
ver were turned back with such accu- 

lations, that they overran the levees 
ilt to hem them in, and inundated 

ole regions, leaving it in its present 
arshy state. 

The more recent history of Missouri 
[s been an eventful one. It was the 
ene of active and widely-extended 
lerations by both Federal and Confed- 
ate forces during the war of 1861-'65. 
5 the only slaveholding State on the 
!stern border, it early attracted the at- 
ation of the Government. A conven- 
m met at Jefferson City, February 28, 
!61, which was adjourned to meet at St. 
)uis, March 4th, following. On the 
ith of May, 1861, a camp of instruction, 
bated in the western suburbs of St. 
iuis, and known as " Camp Jackson," 
d composed of State militia under the 
jmmand of General Frost, surrendered 
I the United States troops under General 
|ron. In marching out a riot took place, 
' which twenty-five persons were killed 



and wounded. The respective forces ia 
the State in November of that year were 
estimated to amount to 42,000 men, 27,- 
000 of whom were Federals. The State 
vvas the scene of almost continuous inva- 
sion, fighting, bushwhacking, and rioting 
during 1862-63, and indeed until nearly 
the close of the war. In October, 1864, 
the rebels under Price were routed near 
the crossing of the Little Osage EivcT, 
and the discomfited forces either taken 
prisoners or driven out of the State. 

The surface of this great State is in 
many parts level or but slightly imdula- 
ting. A wide marshy tract occupies an 
area of 3,000 square miles in the south- 
eastern part, near the Mississippi. In 
other sections are vast i-eaches of prairie 
lands, extending to the Rocky Mountains. 
The Ozark Mountains, which we have seen 
traversing the State of Arkansas, extend 
through Missouri, centrally, from north to 
south in the form of elevated table-lands. 
The rich alluvial tracts of the Mississippi 
lie east of this district, and westward are 
boundless deserts and treeless plains, 
sweeping away to the base of the Rocky 
Mountain ranges. Missouri is divided 
into 113 counties, and contained in 1860 
a population of 1,182,012. 

The State is remarkably i-ich in iron 
ore, lead and copper and coal mines, and 
in nearly all the mineral products. It 
possesses, too, a great variety of marbles, 
some of them beautifully variegated, and 
other valuable building-stones. Pilot 
Knob and Iron Mountain, 85 miles south 
of St. Louis, are mineral curiosities well 
worthy a visit. 

The chief staples of Missouri are Indian 
corn, hemp, tobacco, flax, and all the va- 
rieties of grains, fruits, vegetables, and 
grasses, for the successful growth of which 
the soil is admirably adapted. 
199 



MlSSOUKI.] 



MISSOURI. 



[MlSSOCRI. 



Rivers. — The Ifissovri River. The 
restless, turbid waters of this m;ignificcnt 
river flow fretfully, 3,096 miles from their 
sources in the remote West, to their de- 
bouchure in the Mississippi, not far above 
the city of St. Louis. The entire length 
of the river, including its course to the 
Gulf of Mexico by the Mississippi (1,253 
miles more), is 4,349 miles. The head- 
waters of the Missouri are very near the 
springs which find their way to the Pacific 
through the channels of the Columbia 
River. Their course is northward for 600 
miles, until they reach the remarkable 
cataracts known as the Great Falls. Be- 
fore their arrival here, however, and at a 
distance of 411 miles from their source, 
the waters make the passage of the bold 
chasms called the " Gates of the Rocky 
Mountains." — " Here, through a length 
of six miles, the giant rocks rise perpen- 
dicularly to an elevation of 1,200 feet. 
The dark waters, in their narrow bed, 
wash the base of these huge walls so 
closely, that not a foothold is anywhej-e 
to be found. It is a ghostly gorge on 
the sunniest day, but whea its habitual 
gloom is deepened by the shadow of a 
stormy sky, its solitude grows painfully 
impressive. Let a thunder-peal reverbe- 
rate, as often happens, in a thousand wail- 
ing voices through the rocky windings of 
this glen, and let the blackness of dark- 
ness be increased by the vanished gleams 
of the lightning-flash, and you think you 
have left this fair world far behind you." 
A writer has thus described his expe- 
riences on a recent visit made to this re- 
gion : 

" We were once, with some friends, 
traversing this passage at such a fearful 
moment as we have described, when we 
became aware that we were pursued by a 
party of Indians. Noiselessly and breath- 
lessly we urged on our canoes, pausing at 
intervals only, to ascertain the progress 
of our foes ; hope and despair alternate- 
ly filling our breasts, as we seemed at one 
moment to be gaining, and at another los- 
ing ground. It was only now and then 
that we caught a glimpse of the savages, 
and the sound of their unceasing and un- 
earthly yells came to our ears with such 
uncertainty, that it gave us no clew to 
their position. The excitement of the 
struggle was intense, as then- random ar- 
200 



rows flew about our ears, and as the dead- 
ly effect of our fatal shots was told to usj 
by the death-cries from their own ranks. 

"We took fresh courage, as the increa8-'(> 
ing light spoke our approach to the ter-vt 
minus of the glen, and gave us hope, once"' 
on terra firma, of distancing our foes. ■ 
New fears, though, seized upon us, lest^-' 
our scanty supply of ammunition shoiddjil' 
be exhausted before we reached theji 
prayed-for sanctuary. Happily, the dreadi^ 
vanished, as the arrows of the savages-'- 
sensibly decreased in numbers, and the 
chorus of their infernal shrieks died 
away. 

"When we at lastloaped, panting, upon 
the shore, not a sound of pursuit was to ' 
be heard, leaving us the glad hope that 
we had slain them all, or so many as to 
secure us from further danger. But not 
stopping to verify this supposition, we 
made all possible haste to reach the camp 
v/hich we had so gayly left a few hours 
before. Once safe among our compan- 
ions, we mentally vowed to be wary 
henceforth, how we ventured within the 
gates of the Rocky Mountains." 

Tlie Great Falls of the Missouri are 
located 2,575 miles from its mouth, and 
40 miles above Fort Benton. The de- 
scent of the swift river, at this point, is i 
357 feet in \^ miles. The falls em- 
brace four cascades, the first of which is ' 
26 feet, the next 27 feet, a third of 19 
feet, and a fourth and lowest of 87 feet. 
Between and below these cataracts there 
are stretches of angry rapids. This pas- 
sage is one of extreme beauty and gran- 
deur, and at some day, not very distant, 
perhaps, when these Western wilds shall 
be covered with cities, and towns, and ' 
peaceful hamlets, this spot will be one of 
no less eager and numerous pilgrimage 
than many far less imposing scenes are 
now. The falls of the Missouri are es- 
teemed, by the few tourists whose good 
fortune it has been to look upon these 
wonders, as holding rank scarcely below 
the cataracts of Niagara. 

A late writer on the western territories 
says ; " The thunder of the faUing waters, 
veiled in snowy foam, the bold, wild 
banks, the dazzling rainbows, and the < 
immense volume of water, will make the 
spot a favorite one for tourists in all com- ■ 
ing time." The best, and indeed only 



fflSSOTTKI.] 



MISSOUEI. 



[Missouri. 



ravelled approach is by boat from St. 
jouis, during the " spring rise " in the 
Hissouri, to Fort Benton, 2,570 miles, and 
hence 25 miles by land. Fort Union, 
j:00 miles below Fort Benton, is the head 
|)f steamboat navigation during the sum- 
aer months. (See Montana, also Dakota). 

The upper waters of the Missouri flow 
hrough a wild, sterile country, and below 
lass vast prairie stretches. . Above the 
liver Platte, the open and prairie char- 
cterof the country begins to develop, ex- 
ending quite to the banks of the river, 
nd stretching from it indefinitely in 
laked grass plains, where the traveller 
aay wander for days without seeing either 
rood or water. Beyond the Council 
Jluffs (see Omaha), which are situated 
bout 600 miles up the Missouri, commen- 
es a country of great interest and gran- 
eur, denominated the Upper Missouri. It 
5 composed of vast and almost boundless 
rass plains, through which run the 
'latte, the Yellowstone, and the other 
ivers of this ocean of grass. Buffaloes, 
Ik, antelopes, and mountain sheep 
bound. Lewis and Clark, and other re- 
pectable travellers, relate having found 
ere large and singular petrifactions, both 
oimal and vegetable. On the top of a. 
ill they found a petrified skeleton of a 
uge fish, forty-five feet in length. The 
erds of gregarious animals, particulaiiy 
f the buffalo, are almost countless. 

The YeUoivsto7ie, one of the principal 
■ibutaries of the Missouri, rises in the 
mie range of mountains witli the main 
;ream. It enters from the south by a 
louth 860 yards wide, and is a broad 
nd deep river, having a course of about 
i600 miles. 

The Flatle, another tributary of the 
[issouri, rises in the same range of 
mountains with the parent stream, and, 
leasured by its meanderings, is supposed 
) have a course of about 2,000 miles, 
pfore it joins that river. At its mouth 

is nearly a mile wide, but it is very 
iiallow, and is not boatable, except at its 
fghest floods. 

The Kmisas, or Kaw River, is a very 
rge tributary, having a course of about 
^00 miles, and is boatable for most of 
^e distance. La\ri"ence, Topeka, Fort 
iley, and other towns in Kansas, are on 
3 banks. 



The Osage is a large and important 
branch of the Missouri ; it is boatable for 
200 miles, and interlocks with the waters 
of the Arkansas. 

The Gasconade., boatable for 66 miles, 
is important from having on its banks 
extensive pine forests, from which the 
great supply of plank and timber of that 
kind is brought to St. Louis. 

Railways. — This State, though until 
within a comparatively recent period de- 
pendent almost wholly upon its unequalled 
river communications for commercial in- 
tercourse, is destined, as the chief, depot 
for tha products of the great West, to be- 
come an unportant railway centre. The 
following lines, embracing nearly one 
thousand miles of road, are now in opera- 
tion, affording rapid intercourse witla the 
Missouri Eiver as far as Leavenworth, 
and with the frontier States of Nebraska, 
Kansas, and the outlying territories of 
Dakota, Colorado, and Utah. 

The Pacific Railway, from St. Louis to 
Kansas City, 283 miles, where it connects, 
via Wyandotte, Kansas, with the eastern 
division of the Union Pacific to Fort 
Riley, 125 miles. 

Soiithivest Pacific (Branch Pacific Rail- 
way) from Franklin (3*7 miles) to RoUa, 
113 miles. 

The North Missouri Railway, from St. 
Louis 170 miles, to Macon City, where it 
comiects with the Hannibal and St. Joseph 
Railway. 

The Hamiibcd and Si. Joseph Railway, 
from Hannibal, on the Mississippi River, 
206 miles, to St. Joseph, on the Missouri 
River. 

The St. Louis and Iron Mountain Rail- 
way, from St. Louis, 87 miles, to Pilot 
Knob. 

A short road, known as the Platte 
Comity Railway, connects St. Joseph 
with Weston and Savannah, 52 miles. 

(For fuller information in I'egard to the 
railway system of the State and the con- 
nections formed with other routes of 
travel east and west, centring in that city, 
see St. LO01S.) 

ST. LOUIS. 

Hotels, Lindvll House, Southern, Bar- 
nmn's, Everett House, the Pla7iiers\ and 
the Olive St. House. 

201 



St. Louis.] 



MISSOUKI. 



[St. Louis. 



Routes. — From New York, via Cliicago 
{see Chicago), and thence by the O/dcaffo, 
Alton, and Si. Louis road (280 miles). Or 
to Cleveland, Ohio, by the Atlanlic and 
Great Western Hailway, G2Q miles; thence 
to Crestline, by the Cleveland, Cincinnati, 
and Columbus Railway, 75 miles ; Crest- 
line to Indianapolis {Bellefontaine line) 
207 miles ; Indianapolis to Terre Haute, 
73 miles ; and via Terra Haute to St. Louis, 
by the St. Louis, Alton, and Terre Haute 
Railway, 189 miles ; total, 1,173 miles. 
Or by the Atlantic and Great West- 
ern, 862 miles, to Cincinnati, and thence, 
340 miles, by the Ohio and llinsis- 
sippi Railway. Total distance, 1,202 
miles. From Philadelphia to Pittsburg, 
by the Pennsylvania Railway, 355 miles ; 
Pittsbui'g to Crestline (Pittsburg, Fort 
Wayne, and Chicago road), 187 miles ; 
Crestline to Indianapolis (^Bellefontaine 
road), 206 miles ; Indianapolis to St. 
Louis, via Terre Haute, 262 miles : total, 
1,010 miles. From Baltimore, Bcdtimore 
and Ohio road to Wheeling (Bellaire), 
379 miles ; to Columbus, 137 miles ; to 
Cincinnati, 120 miles ; to St. Louis, 340 
miles : total, 976 miles. 

The Jjindell and the Southern rank 
among the finest hotels in the United 
States, being excelled by none either in 
respect to size or appointments. The 
Lindell occupies the entire block facing 
Washington Avenue, between Sixth and 
Seventh Streets, and, from its mammoth 
proportions and elegant design, presents 
a most imposing appearance. It is one 
of the ornaments of the city, of which its 
citizens feel justly proud, and will well 
repay a visit from every stranger visiting 
St. Louis. It contains 500 rooms, adapt- 
ed to the wants and tastes of all travel- 
lers, from a full suite of i3arlor, chambers, 
and bath-room, on the second and third 
floors, to the single chamber, adapted 
specially to the taste of single gentlemen. 
The gentlemen's reading-room, on the 
ground floor, is a handsome apartment. 
The Southern, which stands on the square 
bounded by Walnut, Fourth, Fifth, and 
Elm, will attract every stranger in that 
quarter by the elegance of its exterior. It 
is of enormous size, being 270 feet long 
on Walnut Street, and 113 feet on Fourth 
and Fifth Streets. The foundations were 
laid in 1858, and the work completed in 
202 



1862. It is built of Athens stone, closely 
resembling marble, in the Anglo-Italian 
style, from designs by Geoi'ge J. Barnett, 
and is six stories high. The gentlemen's 
dining-room, ladies' ordinary and grand 
parlor, are magnificent apartments. 

GuenedorCs Restaurant, 105 Washing- 
ton Avenue, near the Lindell Hotel, serves 
excellent dinners on the European plan. 

St. Louis, the chief city and port of 
entry of Missouri, and the commercial 
metropolis of the Upper and Central Mis- 
sissippi Valley, lies upon the right bank 
of the Mississippi River, 20 miles below 
its confluence with the Missouri, and 174 
miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It 
is 744 miles below the Falls of St. An- 
thony, and 1,194 miles above the city of 
New Orleans. It is built upon two lime- 
stone plateaus, one 20 and the other 60 
feet above the waters of the Mississippi. 
From the plain, into which the upper 
terrace widens, fine views of the city and 
its surroundings are presented. The en- 
tire extent of St. Louis along the cuitcs 
of the river is about 7 miles, and west- 
ward S^ miles. The densely settled por- 
tion, however, is confined to a district of 
about tvv'o miles along the river, and a little 
more than a mile in width. The streets 
are of good width, and regular. Front 
Street, stretching along the levee, is 100 
feet in breadth. This highway, and Main 
and Second Streets, back of and parallel 
with it, are the great commercial streets. 
Chestnut and Market Streets are also fine 
thoroughfares. 

Local authorities differ as to the precise 
date of the selection of the site. Pierre 
Laclede Liguest landed on the present site 
of Barnum's Hotel, northeast corner Wal- 
nut and Second Streets, December 9, 1763 ; 
Anguste and Pierre Chouteau, on the 14th 
February, 1764. A map drawn by Au- 
guste Chouteau in that year, gives Third 
Street, then Rue de Chrange, as the limit of 
the young city westward as then laid out. 
It was settled as a trading station for the' 
trappers of the West. The annual average 
value of furs, brought here during the fif- 
teen successive years ending with 1804,was 
$203,750. The number of deer skins 
was 158,000; beaver, 36,900; otter, 
8,000; bear, 5,100; buffalo, 850, and 
so on. At this period of wild fife, the 
population of St. Louis was between 1,500 



r. Louis.] 



MISSOURI. 



[St. Louis. 



o'd 2,000, half of whom were always 

^ay as voyageurs and trappers. Up to 

820, the number of the people had not 

pached 5,000. 

In 1768 (August 11th), Rious and his 

bnd of Spanish troops took possession of 

lie place, in behalf of her Catholic ma- 

esty, who kept possession until it was 

■ansferred to the United States, March 

j6, 1804. The first brick house was 

uilt in 1813. The first steamboat ar- 

vcd in ISIY. The history of St. Louis 

s a city began in 1822, with the name 

estowed upon it by Laclede, in honor of 

ouis XV. of France. Between 1825 

id 1830, emigration began to flow in 

om Illinois, and the place thrived. The 

Dpulation in 1830 had reached 6,694 ; 

1840, it had swelled to 16,469; in 

350, it was 77,850 ; 1852, it contained, 

eluding the rapidly growing suburbs, 

ightly over 100,000, and the last census, 

360, gave it 160,773. The estimated 

)pulation m 1866 was 190,000. The 

jundaries are Keokuk Street southward, 

id Grand Avenue west and north. It 

divided into 10 wards. Street cars have 

en successfully introduced, and the 

flerent portions of the city and suburbs 

;'e now readily reached by this means. 

ose desiring to hire carriages, etc., will 

d Arnot's stables, 63 Chestnut Street, 

d the City Stables, 119 North Third 

rcet, among the best establishments 

deal with. Lafayette Square is almost 

e only public park of importance which 

e city yet possesses. 

I Public Buildings. — 1h& public edifices 

t St. Louis are in every way creditable 

the taste, munificence, and enterprise of 

[6 people. The Ciiy Hall, the Custom- 

\nuse., and the Court-House, are among 

ie most prominent and noteworthy. 

The Court-House, completed in 1860, 

a cost of upward of one million and 

jquarter dollars, is one of the finest edi- 

cs of its kind in the United States. It 

cupies the square adjoinmg the Plan- 

j's' House on the south, bounded by 

burth, Fifth, Chestnut, and Market 

ireets ; is built of Genevieve limestone, 

|id presents an imposing appearance. 

iie fronts are adorned with porticoes. 

iving to defects in lighting, the I'otunda, 

fd generally the interior of the building, 

esents a dark and gloomy appearance. 



The dome is of fine proportions, and 
though considerably smaller, greatly re- 
sembles that on the Capitol at Washing- 
ton. 

The Custom-House, at the southeast 
corner of Third and Ohve Streets, is a 
spacious, substantial edifice of Missouri 
marble. It occupies the site of one of the 
first theatres erected in St. Louis, and is 
built upon piles driven upward of twenty 
feet into the ground. It was erected from 
designs by Barnett, Peck, and Thomas 
Walsh, and cost $356,000. Underneath 
the Post-Office, which occupies the main 
floor of the building, is a vault which 
extends throughout the basement of the 
building. The second story is used for 
the purposes of the customs and United 
States Courts. 

The Merchants'' Excliange, fronting on 
Main and Commercial Streets, between 
Market and Walnut Streets, is a fine edi- 
fice. It was erected in 1856-'57 from de- 
signs by Barnett & Wiler, architects of 
the city, at a cost of $75,000. The 
height on Main Street is 75 feet, length 
125 feet, and depth 85 feet. The main 
hall, or " Exchange," is a fine room, 102 
by 81 feet. The reading-room is on the 
south side of the main hall. The best 
time to visit this building is between 11-J- 
and 12 o'clock when the merchants are 
" en 'Change." A permit from the super- 
intendent is necessary. 

The United States Arsenal is a grand 
structure, in the southeast part of the city ; 
and 13 miles below, on the river banks, 
are t!:e Jsjferson Barracks. 

CuuKCHES, ETC. — Of the churches, wliich 
exceed 80 in number, the following are 
the best worth visiting: The Catholic 
Cathedral of St. Louis, on Walnut, be- 
tween Second and Thuxl Streets ; St. 
George's, Ejiiscopal (Kev. Dr. Berkeley), 
at the corner of Locust and Seventh 
Streets, erected 1845, and the church of 
the Messiah (Unitarian), erected 1851, at 
the corner of Ohio and Ninth. The 
Cathedral, erected in 1833, is 136 feet 
long and 84 feet wide, and has a front of 
polished freestone, 58 feet high, with a 
Doric portico. In the tower is a fine 
chime of bells. The old churches, four 
in number, which were standing in 1829, 
have long since been removed. 

Among the more prominent benevolent 
203 



Jefferson City.] 



MISSOURI. 



[Lexington. 



institutions of the city are the Oily llos- 
jjilal, the Marine Hospildl (3 miles be- 
low the city), the Home for the Friendless, 
the Sisters' Hospital, and ten Orphan Asy- 
lums. 

Educational Institutions, etc. — St. 
Louis University, founded in 1829 by 
members of the Society of Jesus and in- 
corporated in 1832, is located between 
Washington Avenue, Green, and Ninth 
Streets; Pope's Medical College; theWash- 
inffion University, southwest corner of 
Washington Avenue and Seventeenth 
Street ; the Oarcudin Oollcge of the Ger- 
mans ; the Missouri University, are among 
the most prominent educational institu- 
tions of the city. There are three Commer- 
cial Colleges and a Polytechnic Institute 
(0. Fallon). The latter, organized in 1855, 
has a handsome stone edifice at the cor- 
ner of Chestnut and Seventh Streets, and 
a library of 7,000 volumes. There are 
five other libraries in the city, the most 
prominent and popular of which is that 
of the Mercantile Library Association. 
The Hiffh School, corner of Fifteenth and 
Olive Streets, is a fine building, erected 
in 1855 at a cost of $50,000. The di- 
mensions of the building are 6*7 by 84 
feet. In the third floor is an Assembly 
Hall with seats for 700 persons. The 
public schools of the city number 30. 

BeUefontaine Oemetery is a beautiful 
burial-ground, situated about one mile 
from the river, on the road of the same 
name, five miles from the Court-House. 
It embraces about 350 acres of land and 
is tastefully decorated with shade-trees 
and shrubbery, and contains the remains 
of most of the old settlers and residents 
of St. Louis. Eoute by Fourth Street 
and Broadway cars to the Toll-gate, and 
thence by stage : through fare, 20 cents. 
There are 19 other cemeteries, some of 
■which ai-e very tastefully ornamented. 

•i" c iS'e 1* s o la City. — Hotel, Mc- 
Carteyh. — Jefferson City, the capital of 
Missouri, is upon the Missouri River, 125 
miles west of St. Louis by the Pacific 
Railway, or 155 miles by steamboat up 
the river. The situation is bold and beau- 
tiful, overlooking the turbid waters of the 
Missouri and their cliff-bound shores. 
The population in 1853 amounted to about 
3,000. Jefferson City is on the great 
route to Kansais, Nebraska, Utah, Califor 
204 



nia, and all the Rocky Mountain re- 
gion. 

St. J oscpli. — Hotel, the Pacific. 
St. Joseph is upon the Missouri River, 
340 miles above Jefferson City, and 
496 miles, by water, from St.'LouLs. It 
is the most important place in the western 
part of the State, and a great point of 
departure for the Western emigrants. 
Population, 5,000. (See Hannibal.) 

CoIii.ni1>ia, the capital of Boone 
County, is 35 miles north-northwest of 
Jefferson City. It is the seat of the State 
University, a large and elegant edifice. 

M SA u 11 i )> a. I. — Hotel, Planters' 
House. 

Hannibal is upon the Mississippi, 153 
miles above St. Louis, and 15 miles be- 
low Quincy, Illinois. A railway, 206 ' 
miles long, connects Hannibal with St. 
Joseph, on the Avestern boundary. Pop- 
ulation, 3,500. 

Sjesing-tom. — Hotels, City Hotel, 
Virginia Hotel. 

Lexington is upon the Missouri River, 
120 miles, by land, from Jefferson City. 
The town has prosj^ered by its trade with 
the Santa Fe and Great Salt Lake cara- 
vans. Lexington was the scene of a gal- 
lant defence made by Colonel Mulhgan, 
with 3,000 State troops, against the rebel 
General Sterlmg Price. The siege lasted 
four days (September 16 to 20, 1861), 
when the garrison surrendered. Populii 
tion, in 1860, about 4,000. 

St. CBeaa-les City. — Hotels, j 
the Virghiia House, the City Hotel. 

St. Charles City is situated upon the 
Missouri, 22 miles from its mouth. By 
land, it is 6 miles below the Mississippi.; 
It is Les Pctites Cotes of the early French, 
established by Bianchette Chasseur, in 
1769. Population, betwen 3,000 and 
4,000. 

Cape ^mirardca'si. — Hotel, St. 
Charles. 

Cape Girardeau is upon the Mississippi, ; 
45 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. : 
The St. Vincent College is located here. 

"'S^estoji. — Hotel, the St. George. . 

Weston is upon the Missouri, 200milosi 
by railway beyond Jefferson City, and 5 
miles above Fort Leavenworth. 

B^alanyra is 6 miles from Marion 
City, its landing-place on the Mississippi 
River. The Qumcy and Hannibal branches 



Gaeondelet.] 



MISSOURI. 



[NewMadrid. 



of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Eailway 
intersect at this point. 

Carontlolct is 6 miles below St. 
Louis, on the Mississippi. It was founded 
by Delor de Tregette, in I'JQ'J, and is 
known among the early settlers as Vide 
Foche (Empty Pocket). 

St. <5eiievieve is 61 miles below 
St. Louis, on the Mississippi. It is the 
shipping-point for the products of the 
iron-works at Iron Mountain. 

We-^v Madrid, settled in 1*780, 
was formerly a noted place, but, owing to 
the dreadful earthquakes it experienced 
in 1811 and 1812, it has sunk into com- 
parative insignificance. It is situated on 
a great curve or bend of the river, the 
land being extremely low, and the trees 
along the bank presenting a great uni- 
formity of appearance. The view is most 
monotonous — a feature, indeed, character- 
istic of much of the scenery of the Lower 
Mississippi. On this side there is scarce- 



ly a dozen feet elevation for the distance 
of 100 miles. By the earthquake thou- 
sands of acres were sunk, and multitudes 
of lakes and ponds were created. The 
churchyard of this village, with its sleep- 
ing tenants, was precipitated into the 
river. The earth burst in what are called 
sand-blows. Earth, sand, and water were 
thrown up to great heights in the air. 
The river was dammed up, and flowed 
backward. Birds descended from the air, 
and took shelter in the bosoms of people 
that were passing. The whole country 
was inundated. A great number of boats 
passing on the jiver were sunk. One or 
two that were fastened to islands, went 
down with the islands. The country was 
but sparsely peopled, and most of the 
buildings were cabins, or of logs ; and it 
was from these circumstances that but 
few people perished. (For description of 
points below on the river, see Mississippi 
River.) 

205 



Iowa.] 



IOWA. 



[Iowa. 



IOWA. 



Iowa is one of the new States. It was 
organized as a Territory in 1838, and ad- 
mitted into the Union in 1846. It origin- 
ally fonned a part of the Louisiana pur- 
chase, and subsequently a part of Mis- 
souri and Wisconsin. It lies wholly be- 
yond the Mississippi, which washes all 
its eastern boundary. Oa this side, its 
neighbors are Wisconsin and lUinois. On 
the north is Minnesota; on the west, 
Minnesota and Nebraska; and upon the 
south, Missouri. It is 28*7 miles long 
from east to west, and 210 miles broad, 
and embraces an area of thirty-two and a 
half millions of acres, of which about one- 
sixth is under cultivation. The State has 
no very notable history, beyond the usual 
adventure and hardship of a forest life 
among savage tribes. The settlement of 
the region was commenced at Burlington, 
in the year 1833. The landscape of Iowa 
is marked by the features which we have 
traced in our visit to neighboring portions 
of the Northv/est, The surface is, for 
the most part, one of midulating prairie, 
varied with ridges or plateaus, whose ex- 
tra elevations impel the diverse course of 
the rivers and streams. The Cotcau des 
Prairies enters the State from Minnesota, 
and forms its highest ground. On the 
Mississippi, in the northeast, the landscape 
assmnes a bolder aspect, and pictures of 
rugged, rocky height and bluff are seen. 
A few miles above Dubuque, Table Mound 
will interest the traveller. It is a conical 
hill, perhaps 500 feet high, flattened at 
the summit. 

The Prairies, which are sometimes 20 
miles across, present many scenes of in- 
terest, in their waj- — and it is a way not 
ungrateful to the unaccustomed eyes of 
the visitor from the Atlantic States — mo- 
206 



notonous as it may, possibly, grow in time. 
The rivers in some parts of the State wind 
through ravines of magnesian limestone, 
amidst which they have gradually worked 
their way, leaving the rocks in every gro- 
tesque form of imagery. The depressions 
in the ground, called sinks, are curious 
objects. These singular places, which are 
numerous, arc circular holes, 1 and some- 
times 20 feet across. They abound more 
particularly on Turkey River, in the upper 
part of the State. Near the mouth of 
this stream there are also to be seen many 
small mounds, sometimes rows of them, 
varying in height from 4 to 6 feet. Iowa 
has many mineral products, among which 
is an abundant supply of lead. Copper 
and zinc are also freely found, and plenty 
of coal. 

Rivers. — The Des Moines River, the 
most important stream in Iowa, rises in 
Minnesota, and flows 450 miles through 
the State, to its southeast extreu-iity, where 
it enters the Mississippi, 4 miles below 
Keokuk. It is navigable for small steam- 
ers 250 miles, or may be made so with 
some practicable improvements. The 
Iowa River is 300 miles in length, and is 
navigable from the Mississippi upward 
(80 miles) to Iowa City. The Skunk 
River (200 miles), the Cedar, the Mako- 
quela, and the Wapsipinicon, are all trib- 
utaries of the Mississip.pi. The Missouri 
and the 6^rea/;S'ioK.'K Rivers form the entire' 
western boundary of Iowa. 

Railways. — The State of Iowa is, like 
all the Northwest, being rapidly covered 
by an endless network of rails. The lines 
all radiate from points on the Mississippi 
River, being extensions of the great 
through lines from the Atlantic westward, 
via Chicago. They are the Burlington and 



Dubuque.] 



IOWA. 



[Burlington. 



Missouri River Railway, from Burlington 
to Ottumwa ("75 miles), where it connects 
with the Des Ifoines Valley Raihoay irom 
Keokuk to Des Moines (162 miles). 

The Mississippi and Mmoiiri Railway, 
from Davenport, opposite Rock Island, 
via Iowa City (54 miles) to Kellogg (131 
miles). 

The Dubuque and Sioux City and Dit- 
mqne Southivestern Railway, from Du- 
Duque, via Farley (23 miles) — branch to 
!3edar Rapids (YQ miles), and Cedar Falls 
99 miles) — to Iov,'a Falls (143 miles), in 
jrogress to Fort Dodge. 
■ The Cedar Rapids and Ilissouri River 
ine (C. & N. W. R. R.), from Clinton, via 
edar Rapids (82 miles), to Boonesboro' 
205 miles). 

The McGregor Western Railway, from 

:Gregor (opposite Prairie du Chieu, 
^^is.) to Connover (50 miles). 

These lines embrace 800 miles of road, 
ompleted and in operation, with exten- 
ions in rapid progress, which, when com- 
letcd, will make a total of upward of 
,000 miles. 

The State is divided into 99 counties, 
ud contains a population estimated at 
30,000. Des Moines is the capital, and 
)ubuque, Davenport, Keokuk, Burlington, 
nd Iowa City, are the principal commer- 
ial towns. 

B>iB.l>ii<iiic. — Hotels, Washington 
loiise ; Julicn House. 

Routes. — From Chicago, by the Galena 
nd CMcago ( Central North Western) and 
Illinois Central Railways to Dunleith (188 
liles). From St. Louis, steamer up the 
lississippi River, 450 miles, or by railway 
hrough Illinois. Dubuque is upon the 
rest bank of the Upper Mississippi, m 
tie midst of a very picturesque country, 
t is the most populous, and, with the 
ossiblo exception of Iowa City, the most 
eautiful town in the State. It occupies a 
iroad terrace, elevated about SO feet above 
igh water in the river, and nearly 600 feet 
bove the waters of the Mexican Gulf, 
jiany fine buildings are to be seen here ; 
Imong others the Custom-House and 
Spiscopal Seminary and Cathedral. It 
ontains 19 church edifices and no less 
han 9 newspaper ofBces. Dubuque is 
he oldest town in Iowa, having been sot- 
ted by French missionaries as early as 
6'?3. The first land grant M'as obtained 



(1788) by Julien Du Buque, after whom 
the city is named. The city was incor- 
porated in 1847, and is divided into five 
wards. Dubuque is the centre of the 
lead region west of the Mississippi, as 
Galena is east of it, and also the entrepot 
for the rapidly growing trade of Northern 
Iowa. The average annual shipment of 
lead ore from this point amounts to five 
million pounds. It is the eastern ter- 
minus of the Sioux City Railway, which 
is in operation to Iowa Falls, 143 miles. 
Population (estimated), 20,000, Passen- 
gers for the Upper and Lower Mississippi 
can proceed thither either by river or 
railway. 

Swa-lingtoia . — Hotel, Bassett 
House. 

Burlington, formerly the capital of 
Iowa, and one of the most populous and 
important places in the State, is upon the 
Mississippi River, 259 miles above St. 
Louis, 45 miles above Keokuk, and 88 
miles east-southeast of Iowa City. (See Chi- 
cago, for routes thither from the Atlantic 
cities.) From that point proceed by the 
Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railway, 
210 miles southwesterly, across the State 
of Illinois to Burhugton. Burlington is 
partly built upon the bluff's which charac- 
terize the shores of the Mississippi in this 
the most picturesque portion of its course 
from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mex- 
ico. Notwithstanding the removal of the 
seat of government (1-839), it continued 
to grow rapidly ; its population in 1854 
being about 7,000. The famous Indian 
chieftain, Black Hawk, once dwelt at Bur- 
lington, and here his bones lie buried. 
The Baptist College and two of the church 
edifices are noteworthy structures. It is 
the eastern terminus of the Burlington 
and Missouri River Raikvay. Packets on 
the Mississippi River call here. Popula- 
tion (1866), 12,320. 

Uavciaport. — Hotel, Le Claire 
House. 

Davenport, the capital of Scott County, 
is on the Mississippi, at the foot of the 
Upper Rapids, opposite Rock Island, Illi- 
nois, 184 miles southwest of Chicago, 
and 354 miles above St. Louis. It is the 
second city of the State in population and 
trade, and the third in manufactures. 
Griswold College, established in 1847, is 
a flourishing institution. The landscape 
207 



Iowa City.] 



IOWA. 



[Muscatine.- 



of this rej^ion is extremely attractive. 
The town was first settled in 1837, and 
is largely inhabited by Germans. It is 
the eastern terminus of the Misshsipri 
and Missouri Hailwai/, which will soon be 
m operation to Council Bluffs and Omaha 
on the Missouri l»iver. A fine bridge con- 
nects the city witli Rock Island. Popu- 
lation (estimated), 17,000. 

Io-»va, City. — Hotel, the Clinton 
House. 

Iowa City, the former capital of the 
State, is charmingly situated upon a 
range of bluffs, which form the left bank 
of the Iowa River, about 80 miles from 
the meeting of that water with the Mis- 
sissippi. It may be I'eached from Chica- 
go by the Chicago and liocJc Island Rail- 
wafi, 182 miles from Chicago to Rock 
Island, oa the Mississippi ; and thence 54 
miles by the Mississippi and Missouri 
Railwaii. From St. Louis, by the lUinois 
railways, or by the Mississippi River, to 
Davenport, and thence 54 miles, as 
above. 

The site of Iowa City was a wilderness 
in 1839, when it was selected as the seat 
of government of the then prospective 
State. Within one short year it had a 
population of 600 or 700 people. In 
1860 it had increased to upward of 
S,000, and now it is estimated to contain 
7,300. The town is delightfully embos- 
omed in shady groves, and surrounded 
by fertile prairies. At the intersection 
of the chief streets — Iowa Avenue and 
Capitol Street, which are each 100 feet 
wide — stands the former State-House, a 
handsome Doric building, 1'20 feet in 
length. It is constructed of ringed and 
spotted stone, called " bird's-eye marble," 
which was quarried in the neighborhood. 
This edifice and its extensive grounds 
have been granted to the Slate University. 
The Asylums for the deaf, the blind, and 
the dumb, are spacious edifices. The city 
has an academy and several flourishing 
schools. The Iowa River, which is nav- 
igable to the city in good stages of water, 
aftbrds fine water-powei\ 

KeoSculf. — Hotel, the Billings 
House. 

Keokuk is at the foot of the Lower 
Rapids of the Mississippi, 212 miles 
above St. Louis, 47 miles below Burling- 
ton, and 125 miles below Iowa City. (See 
208 



Burlington, for route from Chicago and 
the Eastern cities to that place.) The 
rapids are 11 miles in length, and have 
a descent of 24 feet. This is the head 
of navigation for the largest steamers, 
and the outlet for the rich valley of the 
Des Moines, the most populous portion of 
the State. Fine ' steamers run daily be- 
tween Keokuk and St. Louis. The Mis- 
sissippi is here about one mile wide. The 
Des Moines Valley Railway connects it 
with Ottumwa (76 miles) and Des Moines 
(162 miles). The Medical Department of 
the State tiniversity is located here. It 
has also three academies and several 
good schools. Population (estimated), 
12,500. 

Mitscatine, formerly Blooming- 
ton, the flourishing capital of Muscatine 
County, is upon the Mississippi, 112 
miles above Keokuk, and 30 miles below 
Davenport. From Chicago take the 
Chicago and Rock Island Railway, 182 
miles to Rock Island ; thence, via the 
Mississippi and Missouri Railway, 27 
miles to Wilton Junction, and thence 13 
miles by branch road to Muscatine. 

Muscatine is at the apex of a bend in 
the Mississippi, on the summit of a bold 
range of rocky bluffs, which are seen 
from the water a distance of 40 miles. 
It was first settled by the whites in 1836; 
before that period it was an Indian tra^ 
ding-post, called Manatheka. It was in- 
corporated in 1853, and now contains a 
population of nearly 10,000. 

ffi'os't Ma,«lisoai is a growing town 
upon the Mississippi, 22 miles above 
Keokuk, and the same distance below 
Burlington. 

l>es Moimes, selected as the cap- 
ital of Iowa in 1855, is at the junction 
of the Des Moines and Raccoon Rivers, 
120 miles west of Iowa City. It is 162 
miles from Burlington and Keokuk by 
the Burlington and Mississippi River and 
Des Moines Vcdley Railways. Steam- 
boats ascend the Des Moines to this 
point from the Mississippi. The railway 
■from Davenport to Council Bluff's is to 
pass through Fort Des Moines. The 
place was formerly a United States mili- 
tai'y post, but was evacuated in 1840. 
Population, 7,000. 

Cealai- ST'ialls and Cetlai* Kap- 
itls are thriving young towns on Cedar 



flUNNELL.] 



liver, connected by rail with Chicago 
nd the principal towns of Iowa and 
llinois. 

Orinnell is on the Mississippi and 
Wissouri Mailway, 120 nailes west of 



IOWA. 



[Grinnell. 



Davenport, and 66 miles west of Iowa 
City. It is the seat of Iowa College, for- 
merly located at Davenport. It is in the 
heart of one of the best portions of the 
State, a,nd is growing rapidly. 
209 



Minnesota.] 



MINNESOTA, 



[Minnesota. 



MINISTESOTA 



Romantic stories of the wonders of the 
land, which now forms the new State of 
Minnesota, were told more than two cen- 
turies ago by the zealous French mission- 
aries, who had even at that remote period 
pushed their adventures thither; never- 
theless, only a very few years have elapsed, 
since immigration has earnestly set that 
way, creating populous towns and culti- 
vated farms along the rivers and valleys, 
before occupied by the canoe and the wig- 
wam of the savage alone. Some idea of 
the marvellous productive progress of this 
young State may be gained from the fact 
that the crop of wheat — the staple product 
of the State— ^for 1866, amounted to fif- 
teen millions of bushels. Ttie magical 
development of Minnesota is in keeping 
with that marvellous spirit of progress 
so characteristic of the Western sections 
of the United States. So rapid is this 
growth, and on such a sure and enhght- 
ened a basis, that the church and the 
school-house spring up in the wilderness 
before there are inhabitants to occupy 
them. In Minnesota, one of the earliest 
foundations was that of an Historical 
Society (1849), established almost before 
the history of the country had begun. 
As a field of adventure, both for the 
student and the sportsman, it offers 
greater attractions than perhaps any other 
State in the West ; while the beauty of 
its scenery and the salubrity of its cli- 
mate present inducements to the lover of 
nature and the invalid which will always 
make it a desirable region for exploration 
and settlement. Minnesota occupies an 
area almost four times as great as that of 
the State of Ohio, extending from the Mis- 
sissippi and the St. Croix Ilivers, and from 
Lake Superior on the east to the Missouri 
210 



and the White-Earth Eivers on the west, 
a distance of more than 400 miles ; and 
from the Iowa line on the south to the i 
British borders on the north — also 400 ' 
miles apart. The entire area embraces 
53,760,000 acres. Almost the whole of . 
this .vast region is a fine rolling prairie of > 
rich soil, a sandy loam adapted to the ' 
short summers of the climate, and which 
produces bounteously. The surface of • 
the country, excepting the Missouri plains, 
is interspersed with numerous beautiful i 
lakes of fresh water — all abounding in the 
finest fish, and their banks covered with 
a rich growth of woodland. The land is 
about equally divided between oak open- ' 
ings and prairies, the whole well watered 
by numerous navigable streams. 

In the eastern section, on the head- f 
waters of the Mississippi, Rum River, and ■ 
the St. Croix, are extensive pine and hard- 
wood forests, apparently inexhaustible for > 
centuries ; while from the mouth of Ci'ow- ' 
ivinc/ River, a tributary of the Mississippi, i 
an extensive forest of hard-wood timber, • 
fifty miles in width, extends southwest- ; 
erly into the country watered by the Blue- i^ 
Earth River, a tributary of the Minnesota / 
River, emptying into it 150 miles above « 
its mouth. The latter stream, rising near i 
Lac Traverse, flows southeasterly a dis- 
tance of 450 miles, and empties into the 
Mississippi at Fort SneUing, seven miles 
above St. Paul, and the same distance be- » 
low St. Anthony. This is one of the finest 
streams in the valley of the Mississippi, ^ 
and the country through which it flows is i 
not excelled for salubrity of climate and \ 
fertility of soil by any pai't of the United 
States. In a good stage of water, steam- 
boats can ascend it almost to its source. 
A portage of three miles then connects it 

■m 



[INNESOTA.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[Minnesota. 



ith Lac Traverse ; and the outlet of the 
itter, the Sioux Wood River, with the 
imous Red Rivci- of the North. This 
tream is navigable at all seasons for 
teamboats from Bois de Sioux (Sioux 
iity) to Pembina, on the British line, to 
lie Selkirk settlements, 100 miles beyond 
nd even to Lake Winnipeg. The trade 
if these extensive regions v/ill eventually 
eek a market, following down the Min- 
esota to the Mississippi at St. Paul, and 
hence to the States below. A railroad 
ionncction is already made, via St. Cloud 
ith the St. Paul and Pacific Railway to 
t. Paul, whence work is rapidly progress- 
on the extension to Winona. (See 

AILWATS.) 

The only interruption to the navigation 
f the Lower Mmnesota River in dry sca- 
3ns is what are called the "Rapids," 
jrae 40 miles above its mouth. This is a 
idge of sandstone I'ock, extending across 
le stream, and will soon be removed. 

The Mississippi above St. Anthony is 
avigable in good stages of water for light- 
i-aught boats an almost indefinite dis- 
lince to the north, and packets have run 
;gularly as far as the Sauk Rapids (80 
liles), which, witli the Little Palls (40 
liles beyond), are the main obstacles in a 
ivigation of over 400 miles from St. An- 
lony to the Falls of the Pokegama. The 
'acijic Road being now in operation from 
Paul to St. Cloud, and rapidly pro- 

essing northward, travel will henceforth 

ek the land route. 8i. Croix Lahe and 
'iver are navigable to the Falls, 60 miles 

ove the junction of the lake and Mis- 
^sippi ; and the St. Louis River is navi- 
iible from Lake Superior 20 miles to 
ond du Lac. Numerous other streams 
■e navigable for light-draught steamers 
id flat-boats from 50 to 100 miles, pene- 
ating into the interior to the pineries, 
id giving easy access into the country 
all directions. These are the Blue- 
arih, Rum, ElJc, Sauk, Crow, Crow- 
ing, Vermilion, and Cannon Rivers. 

On the northeastern border of the ter- 
tory is Lake Superior, with its valuable 
shei'ies and its shores abounding in in- 
tbaustible mines of copper, coal, iron, 
k3., besides affording the facility of that 
1st inland sea for immigration and com- 
jerce. (See The Lake Region.) 

The Mississippi, taking its rise in Itasca 



Lake, in the northern portion of the State, 
flows by a devious course for some 800 
miles through the eastern part, and below 
the mouth of the St. Croix forms the di- 
viding line between Minnesota and Wis- 
consin for some 200 miles more to the 
Iowa line. This mighty river gives the 
State the whole lower valley to the Gulf 
of Mexico for a perpetual market for its 
agricultural produce, lumber, and manu- 
factures. Various elevated ridges trav- 
erse the territory of Minnesota, though 
the State is far from being of a mountain- 
ous character. The plateau called the 
Coufeau des Prairies, or the Prairie 
Heights, is one of these singular terraces. 
It extends 200 miles, with a breadth vary- 
ing from 20 to 40 miles. The average 
elevation of this lofty plain is some 1,500 
feet, and in some parts it rises nearly 
2,000 feet above the level of the sea. In 
the north it is about 900 feet above the 
neighboring waters of Big-Stone Lake. 
There is another range of wooded heights, 
reaching 100 miles or more, called the 
" Coteau du Grand Bois." Then there 
a,re the " Hauteurs de Terre," highlands 
which extend some 300 miles. These 
last-mentioned ridges form the dividing 
line of the rivers, which flow to Hudson's 
Bay on one side and to the Mississippi 
and Lake Superior on the other. 

The Lakes of Minnesota., which are ver;^ 
numerous, form one of the most invit- 
ing and picturesque features of the State. 
They are found in every section, and are 
annually visited by large numbers of 
tourists and sportsmen. Sometimes they 
are little ponds a mile in circumference, 
and again sheets of water 40 or 50 miles 
in extent. Their shores are charmingly 
wooded, and frequently present fine pic- 
tures of cliff and headland. The waters 
are pure and transparent, and are filled 
with white-fish, trout, pike, pickerel, suck- 
er, perch, and other finny inhabitants. 
The largest of these lakes are the Minne- 
tonka, the Osakis or Spirit Lake, White 
Bear, Kandiyohi, Otter- tail, and Mille 
Lac. Lake Pepin, a beautiful expansion 
of the Mississippi, is in this region. On 
its east bank is the fumous Maiden's Roek, 
400 feet high ; and near the northern end 
the La Grange Mountain rises in a bold 
headland, 230 feet above the water. (See 
Lake City.) Rainy Lake, Minnie-Waken 
211 



St. Paul.] 



SIIXNESOTA. 



[St. Paui. 



or Devil Lake, Red and Leach Lal-es, are 
all in this State. 

St. I"aiil. — Hotels, the Inter na- 
tional, the Merchants' ; both spacious and 
elegant establishments. The Glohe is 
conducted on the European plan. 

EouTES. — From Chicago, via the KortJi- 
western And Jlihcaukee and St. Paul Rail- 
ways to the Mississippi, at La Crosse; 
thence bv steamer to Winona ; and thence 
by Wiyiona and St. Refer and JFinnesofa 
Central Railwai/s, via Owatonna, to St. 
Paul : or the Chicago and St. Paid Rail- 
vxnj, from Chicago to Prairie du Chien, on 
the Mississippi ; thence by steamer in sum- 
mer and stages in winter. — Total dis- 
tance, 412 miles. 

St. Paul, the capital and chief city of 
Minnesota, and the commercial metropolis 
of the extreme Northwest, is pleasantly 
situated on the east bank of the Missis- 
sippi, 2,116 miles north of Xew Orleans, 
and 798 above St. Louis. It occupies a 
picturesque and commanding position 
upon what was formerly a bluff 70 feet 
high, but which the rapidly increasing 
demands of travel and traffic have accom- 
modated to a row of terraces or benches, 
on which a large portion of the business 
of the city is now carried on. 

St. Paul is one of the oldest settle- 
ments in the State. Eather Hennepin 
visited it in 1680. He was followed by 
Carver, who made a treaty with the Da- 
kotah Indians in 1766. Carver''s Cave, 
under Dayton's BlufF, where this treaty 
is said to have been made, forms one of 
the "sights " of the place. Immiuijaska, 
or " White Rock," the name by which 
the site of the town was known to the 
Indians, was doubtless given to it on 
account of its location on a high bluff 
of white sandstone which then formed 
a prominent landmark from the river. 
The first actual settlement was made 
in 1838, by Parraut, a Canadian. Father 
Gaultier, a Catholic missionary, built a 
log chapel near the edge of the bluif 
in 1840, which he named St. Paul, by 
which appellation the settlement then 
became "known. The singular and some- 
what unworthy name of " Pig's Eye " 
was given it in 1848, but shortly af- 
ter changed. Upon the organization 
of the Territory (1849) the capital was 
located at St. Paul, since which time 
212 



the place has grown and improved rap- 
idlv. The town was incorporated in 
1849, and the city of St. Paul, March 4 
1854. It has a front on the river of bo 
tween three and four miles, and embraces 
an area of 3,200 acres. The streets laid 
out and partially built upon number over 
200. At the organization of the territory, 
in 1849, the white inhabitants of the 
place numbered 50 ; in 1860, the popu- 
lation had increased to 10,277, and in 
1865 to 15,107. 

The city, considering the natural diffi- 
culties to be overcome in jDrepariug the 
site, is regularly laid out and well built; 
the abundance of excellent limestone and 
building material in the vicinity contrib- 
uting largely to its substantial and 
handsome appearance. It is divided into 
five wards, is lighted with gas, and con- 
tains a population estimated (1867) at 
17,500. 

Among the prominent public buildings, 
the State-Rouse, from its conspicuous 
loccde, will attract the stranger's atten- 
tion. It is a brick edifice, 140 feet long 
by 53 wide, and surmounted by a dome. 
The Keio Opera-House is a commodious 
brick building, stuccoed, and capable of 
seating 2,000 persoiis. The Slate Arsenal 
is on St. Peter Street, near Eighth. The 
Cathedral of St. Paid, erected in 1854, 
is centrally located at the corner of St. 
Peter and Sixth Streets. There are nine- 
teen other church edifices, a majority of 
which are of recent construction. Among 
the educational and literary institutions, 
the most noteworthy is the HiMorkal 
Society which occupies rooms in Inger- 
sol's Hall, at the intersection of Waba- 
shaw and Third Streets. It was incor- 
porated in 1S49, and has a library of 
several thousand volumes. The Athe- 
ncemn is at the corner of Exchange and 
Pine Streets. Besides these, there are 
fifteen colleges, and male and female 
schools, and eight public halls, concert, 
and assembly rooms. Many of the views 
in the vicinity of St. Paul are very beau- 
tiful, and they have been faithfully pho- 
tographed by Whitney and Martin, 
whose galleries, on Third Street, are well 
worthy a visit. 

The vicinity of St. Paul has many 
pleasant walks and drives. The Citjf 
Park in fi.-ont of the City Hall, thv- 



AXTHOXT.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[The Falls of St. Axthoxt 



irk Place grounds on Summit Avenue 
fd the bluff tops between the upper 

;d lower towns, including iJfv^oiCs 

Iti^and Carvers Cave, all command 

^e views. 

jAmong the drives, those to Lake 
'iHo, Oaklayid Cemetery, Minnehaha 
ills, and the Falls of St. Anthony are 
e most attractive and most popular. 

' Jakland " is one mile and a half from 
e city, and embraces about 200 acres 

' land, exclusive of the Episcopal Ceme- 

•', which adjoius it. Bej'ond Lake 

.0 are White Bear Lake, Bass Lake, 

numerous other choice waters, 

; ounding in fish. 

[Fountain Cave is a remarkable spot two 
three miles above St. Paul. A pas- 
;e-wav, 25 feet high, and nearly as 
ie, leads into a cavera of white sand- 
whieh has been penetrated for 
)00 feet ; first by a gallery 150 feet in 
jigth and 20 feet broad, and afterward 

t'ough narrow passes. A rivulet fol- 

vfs the course of this cave. 

'in. favorable weather one of the most 

(pightful drives in the neighborhood of 
Paul is that to St. Anthony and Mia- 
ipolis, returning by the Falls (Mimie- 
'ja) and Fort Snelling. 
The excursion will occupy the whole or 
sater portion of the day, affording 

iple opportunity to see these towns and 

^ the points of interest by the way. A 

i)re expeditious and cheaper, but not so 
!asant a route, is that by the Si. Paul 
d Pacific Railway to St. Anthony (10 
les), thence by stage to Minneapolis (1 
le), thence by Minnesota Central Rail- 
y to Minnehaha (5 miles), thence to 
rt Snelling (2 miles), thence to Mendota 
^miles), pnd thence to St. Paul (6 miles). 

1!$t. .Autkony. — St. Anthony is a 
riving town on the left bank of the 
ssissippi, at the famous Falls of St. 
ythony, 10 miles above St. Paul. The 
"ilage is situated upon a lofty terrace 
{erlooking the falls. It was incorpo- 
ied in 1855 and contains 3,500 inhabi- 
TQts. Its position at the head of navi- 
ition on the Father of Waters, below 
je falls, is of immense commercial eon- 
lleration, and the falls afford incalcuk- 
fe water-power for manufactories. The 
■ate University, and the Winsloio HoK.ie 
ililing, now used for the purposes of a 



Hygienic "Water Cure, are seen in ap- 
proaching or entering the town. It is 
connected with Minneapolis by a suspen- 
sion bridge 620 feet in lensrth, erected in 
1855. 

Tlie Falls of St. Amtlioaj-, 
the principal attraction hereabouts, can 
be seen with about equal advantage from 
either shore. The fall is 18 feet perpen- 
dicular with a rapid descent of 50 feet 
within a distance of one mile. The river 
at this point is divided by an island (Ni- 
collet), as at Niagara, where it rushes 
over a bold and broad ledge of lime- 
stone. 

A friend visiting these falls in 1856 
wrote : " I know not how other men 
feel when standing there, nor how men 
will feel a century hence, when standing 
there — then, not in the west, but almost 
in the centre of our great nation. But 
when I stood there, and reflected on the 
distance beeween that and the place of 
my birth and my home ; on the prairies 
over which I had passed ; and the stream 
— the ' Father of Kivers ' — up which I 
had sailed some 500 miles, into a new and 
unsettled land — where the children of the 
forest still live and roam — I had views of 
the greatness of my country, such as I 
have never had in the crowded capitals 
and smiling villages of the East. Far in 
the distance did they then seem to be, and 
there came over the soul the idea of 
greatness and vastness, which no figures, 
no description, had ever conveyed to my 
mind. To an inexperienced traveller, 
too, how straixge is the appearance of ail 
that land! Those boundless prairies 
seem as if they had been cleared by the 
patient labor of another race of men, re- 
moving all the forests, and roots, and 
stumps, and brambles, and smoothing 
them down as if with mighty rollers, and 
sowing them with grass and flowers : a 
race which then passed away, having 
built no houses of their own, and made 
no fences, and set out no trees, and estab- 
lished no landmarks, to lay the founda- 
tion of any future claim. The mounds, 
which you here and there see, look, indeed, 
as if a portion of them had died and had 
been buried there ; but those mounds and 
those boundless fields had been forsaken 
together. Ton ascend the Mississippi 
amid scenery unsurpassed in beauty prob- 
213 



Minneapolis.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[Fort Snellino. 



ably in the world. You sec the waters 
making their way along an inters'ale of 
from two to four miles in width, between 
bluffs of from 100 to 500 feet in height. 
Now the river makes its way along the 
eastern i-ange of bluffs, and now the 
western, and now in the centre, and now 
it divides itself into numerous channels, 
forrain/.; thousands of beautiful islands, 
covered with long grass ready for the 
scythe of the mower. Those bluffs, 
rounded with taste and skill, such as 
could be imitated by no art of man, and 
set out with trees here and there, grace- 
fully arranged like orchards, seem to hare 
been sown with grain to the summit, and 
are clothed with beautiful green. You 
look out instinctively for the house and 
barn ; for flocks and herds ; for men, and 
women, and children ; but they are not 
there. A race that is gone seems to 
have cultivated those fields, and then to 
have silently disappeared — leaving them 
for the first man that should come from 
the older parts of our own country, or 
from foreign lands, to take possession of 
them. It is only by a process of reflec- 
tion that you are convinced that it is not 
so. But it is not the woi'k of man. It 
is God who has done it, when there was 
no man there save the wandering savage, 
alike ignorant and unconcerned as to the 
design of the great processes in the land 
where he roamed — God who did all this, 
that He might prepai-e it for the abode of 
a civilized and Christian people." 

The scene even now (1866) is not much 
changed. To be sure, there is a busy 
settlement at and around St. Anthony. 
The whirring sound of the saw-mill and 
the " busy hum of industry " are heard, 
but still it is natiu-e and nature alone that 
impresses and possesses you. 

Nicollet Island hes between the two 
villages, .and affords, by means of a bridge 
at this point, some pleasant rambles. 
The larger fall is on the western side of 
the island. It is 310 yards in width. It 
is estimated that about seventy-five mil- 
lion feet of lumber are annually made at 
these fills. 

MiMBiejapolis, the capital of Hen- 
nepin County, and one of the most popu- 
lous and flourishing points in the State, 
is situated on the west bank of the Mis- 
sissippi in full view of the falls and the 
214 



town of St. Anthony. It is the northern 
terminus of the Minnesota Cmtral Hail- 
way and has immediate connection with 
St. Paul,. Winona, Mendota, and all other 
important towns in the State. Tlie town 
Is well built and contains several commo- 
dious buildings, among which the Coiirl- 
J-Iouse, the various mills, and the two lead- 
ing hotels, the Nicollet House, and First 
National Hotel, are the most prominent. 
The Music Hall, Athenceum (Post-Office), 
and Harrison Hall are also among the 
princii^al buildings. Like its neighbor, 
St. Anthony, Minneapolis derives much 
of its prosperity from the adjacent falls. 
The saw and grist mills are numerous and 
extensive. A short distance south of 
the town is an enclosure of 75 acres 
which is used as a Driving Park. Silver 
Cascade and Bridal Veil Falls are 
reached in an easy ride from Minneapolis. 
Lakes Harriet and Calhoun afford de- 
lightful drives and sport. Lake Minnt- 
tonka is 12 miles westward The village 
of Excelsior, on the south side of the 
lake, 18 miles from Minneapolis and 27 
miles from St. Paul, is a pleasant sum- 
mer resort. 

Blifiaiaelaalaa, Falls — isometimes 
but erroneously called Brown's Falls — is a 
beautiful cascade located between four 
and five miles from Minneapolis on the 
direct road to Fort Snelling and Men- 
dota. They are the outlet of several 
small lakes, and have a perpendicular de- 
scent of 5*7 feet. Eefreshments may be 
obtained during the season at a house a 
few rods below the falls. 

Two miles from this lovely fall stands 
Fort Suelhng. 

S^oi't SiEeMiMg'j 6 miles from St. 
Paul, at the confluence of the Minnesota 
or St. Peter and Mississippi Elvers, on 
the west side of the latter river, should 
not be omitted by the stranger in making 
liis tour in this locahty. For half a cen- 
tury it has been known far and wide for 
the prominence and beauty of its situa- 
tion. On the 23d of September, 1805, 
Lieutenant Z. M. Pike held a conference 
with the Sioux Indians on the island at 
the confluence of the Mississippi and Min- 
nesota Eivers, which now bears his name, 
and which has since become famous as an 
Indian treaty-ground. The corner-stone 
of the present fort, which was then known 



Mendota.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[The Sioux Kapids. 



as Fort St. Anthony, was laid September 
10, 1820, and so far completed as to be oc- 
cupied by troops in 1822'. It was visited 
by General Scott in 1824, and the name 
changed to Fort Snelling in compliment 
to Colonel Josiah Snelling, who command- 
ed the post and under whoso supervision 
it was constructed. The reservation em- 
braces 10,000 acres. Colonel Alexander 
is the present commandant at the fort. 
General Terry, the hero of Fort Fisher, 
has lately been ordered to the command 
iof this department, with headquarters at 
Fort Snelling. The buildings of the gar- 
rison are upon a high bluft', probably 200 
feet above the level of the water in the 
rivers. This bluff extends to the north 
and west in a gently undulating and very 
fertile prairie, interspersed here and there 
with groves of heavy timber. 

Mendota, which lies about half a mile 
below the mouth of the Minnesota and 2 
niles by rail from Fort Snelling was for- 
nerly a trading-post of the American Fur 
Company, but is now mainly important to 
;he traveller as a jjoint of convergence 
md radiation for the several railway lines 
eading to and from St. Paul, Minneapolis, 
md Winona. Until within a few years it 
as included in the military reserve of 
brt Snelling. It has not attained that 
egree of prosperity so remarkable in the 
illages of St. Paul and Minneapolis, and 
hich its far more favorable position 
ight justly have secured for it. The 
„ icinity commands some fine views. From 
^ilot Knob, which lies back of Mendota, a 
iew may be obtained of the surrounding 
bountry as far as the eye can reach, af- 
fording to the spectator a sight of one of 
the most charming natural pictures to be 
Found in this State, so justly celebrated for 
benic beauty. The view embraces within 
k circle of eight or nine miles, a grand 
fepectacle of rolling prairie, extended plain 
ind groves, the valley of the Minnesota 
|\'ith its meandering stream, a bird's-eye 
'iew of Fort Snelling, Lake Harriet in 
he distance — the town of St. Anthony 
iust visible through the nooks of the 
btcrvening groves — and St. Paul, looking 
ike a city set upon a hill, its buildingd 
nd spires distinctly visible, and present- 
Jig in appearance the distant view of a 
iity containing a population of a hundred 
housand human beings. 



The St. Croix Falls, or Rapids, are in 
the St. Croix River, 54 miles from its 
mouth. The St. Croix continues the 
boundary line between Wisconsin and 
Minnesota, in the upper half of the State, 
formed below by the waters of the 
Mississippi. The falls in the St, Croix 
have a descent of 50 feet in 300 yards. 
The perpendicular walls of trap rock, be- 
tween which the waters make their bois- 
terous way, present a scene of remark- 
ably picturesque interest. This wild pass 
is about half a mile below the Rapids. 
It is called the Dalles of the St. Croix; 

Lake St. Croix, an expansion of the 
river, 36 miles in length, which opens out 
shortly after leaving the Mississippi, is a 
beautiful sheet of water. Steamers run 
up the St. Croix Lake and River to the 
falls. 

The Sioux JRapids, in the Sioux River, 
form another striking feature in the va- 
ried landscape of this region. The pass is 
through a grand quartz formation. The 
descent of the waters is 100 feet in 400 
yards. There are three perpendicular 
falls of from 10 to 20 feet. 

The Ihlls of the St. Louis River are 
a series of rapids extending 1 6 miles, the 
waters making, in that distance, a descent 
of 320 feet. These cataracts terminate 
about 20 miles from the mouth of the 
river. 

In our enumeration of the landscape 
features and attractions of Minnesota, 
we have included only a few of the lead- 
ing and most accessible scenes. The 
sportsman here will find plenty to do, 
whether it be with his gun in the woods, 
or with his line by the marge of the grace- 
ful waters. Immense herds of buffalo, 
deer, elk, antelope, and other noble deni- 
zens of the forest, still roam over the 
western plains, and the moose and the 
grizzly bear, the otter and the wolf, may 
all yet be found in the northern and north- 
western sections of the State. 

After the traveller has spent a few days 
in St. Paul and its vicinity, arid still feels 
disposed to lengthen his stay in Minnesota, 
he will find both pleasure and profit in 
visiting the towns along the Pacific route 
from St. Anthony northward, pushing his 
explorations into the Selkirk Settlement 
and British America. For the giiidance 
of such as propose making the trip, we 
215 



St. Cloud.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[Shakopee. 



append the names and locations of such 
points on the route as through necessity 
or choice he may sojourn at. 

HEanoiniu, the capital of the coun- 
ty of the same name, is a small village on 
the east bank of the Mississippi, 17 miles 
north of St. Paul. Population, 700. 

Anoka, (25 miles), the coui.ty seat 
of Anoka County, is situated at the mouth 
of Mille Lac (Rum River), at its conflu- 
ence with the Mississippi. It was siir- 
veyed in 1854 and contains a hotel, three 
churches, several stores, and about 1,200 
inhabitants. 

St. Cloud. (74 miles), on the west 
side of the Mississippi, at the foot of 
Sauk Rapids, is the present (1866) 
northern terminus of the Si. Paul and 
Pacific Railway, and a thriving place of 
1,-500 inhabitants. A railway is projected 
from St. Cloud to Superior City, 120 
miles. There is a good hotel (Fletcher 
House), and several fine buildings. 

From St. Cloud the adventurous trav- 
eller may pursue his journey 200 miles to 
the Red River, or still farther to Fort 
Garry, in British America. The writer 
has made the distance in mid-winter in 
moccasins and snow-shoes, in company 
with the drivers of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany's carts, and enjoyed it heartily. 

Two miles north of St. Cloud lies the 
village of Sauk Rapids. The river here 
falls 15 feet in a distance of half a mile, 
and furnishes a valuable watei'-power. 
The Mississippi above the rapids flows 
through a level country, interspersed with 
timber, as far' as Crow Wing. Watab and 
Lillle Falls are as yet sraah places lying 
on the great river between St. Cloud and 
Crow Wing. 

Cx'0-»T liViiig:, on the east bank of 
the Mississippi River, and opposite the 
mouth of Crow-Wing River, is an impor- 
tant Indian trading-post, and prospective- 
ly a place of considerable importance, in 
connection with the Pacific Railway which 
will eventually be extended northward to 
Pembina. It is 120 miles from St. Paul, 
and can be reached, with the aid of the 
I'ailway to St. Cloud, in two days and a 
half. The Chippewa Agency is on Crow- 
Wing River, 23 miles west of the Missis- 
sippi. Here the annual payments are 
made in October. In favorable weather 
this affords a pleasant detour from the 
216 



line of travel to Pembina and the Selkirk 
Settlement. Otter-Tall Lake and the 
adjacent waters' lie about two days' jour- 
ney northwest of the Agency, and offer 
great attractions to sportsmen. A recent 
writer describes them as being of the 
purest water, and abounding in delicious 
fish of different kinds. " The principal 
game left is wild fowl, among which may 
be named as most plenty the prairie 
chicken, grouse, partridges, ducks, and 
wild geese. Deer, elk, bear, foxes, bad- 
gers, and other fur-bearing animals, here- 
tofore numerous, are now scarce, being 
nearly exterminated by the Indians, who 
are expert huntsmen. The healthy influ- 
ence of this section of the country is un- 
rivalled, it being a luxury to breathe the 
pure air of this region. Buffalo and otiier 
large game may be found west of Red 
River, affording wholesome food, while 
wheat and vegetables are raised in great 
abundance wherever settlements have 
been made." The entire trip from St. 
Paul to Red Lake and River, via St. 
Cloud, Crow Wing, the Chippewa Agency, 
and Otter-Tail Lake, and return, might be 
made very comfortably in from four to 
six weeks. The best season in which to 
make the trip is during the months of 
September and October, though it might 
be made later without serious personal 
discomfort. (See Lake Region.) 

XSie Minnesota, Valley. — 
(See Minnesota River.) — Tourists desir- 
ous to see this lovely valley will take the 
Valley Railway at St. Paul or Mendota, 
visiting the different towns through which 
it passes. Nicollet and Hamilton are 
stations on this road — the former 11, the 
latter 18 miles from St. Paul. 

Slialfopee, the capital of Scott 
County, is pleasantly situated on the 
south bank of the river (Minnesota), 28 
miles by railway and 32 by boat from St. 
Paul. It occupies the site of an Indian 
village, named after the chief who inhab- 
ited it, and was laid out by Thomas' 
Holmes in 1852. The Si. Paul House is 
the leading hotel. 

Cliiislfa. and Carver (32 miles) 
are growing towns, the former situated 
on the north, the latter on the south bank 
of the Minnesota River. The Moravian 
Academy at Chaska, established in 1864, 
is a flourishing institution. Carver is at 



MM 



?ELLE PlAINE.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[Lake City. 



K he head of navigation during the season 
f low water, and merchandise is here 
ransshipped in considerable quantities. 

ISclle l^laiiie (4*7 miles) was laid 
ut in 1854, andnow contains about 1,000 
ihabitants. It is the present terminus 
f the Valleif Railway. It is 49 miles by 
teamboat from St. Paul. Henderson 
,nd Le Seicr, the county seats of Sibley 
nd Le Seur Coimties, are on the line of 
ae ilinnesoia Valley road, between 
;elle Plaine and Mankato. The trade of 
lese points is as yet conducted by river 
iUring the season of navigation. The 
istance from St. Paul by river is 80 and 
p miles respectively. 
St. I*eter, the capital of Nicollet 
ounty, is advantageously situated on the 
innesota River, 118 miles from St. Paul, 
is the proposed terminus of the Wincna 
id St. Peter Itailway, at present oper- 
ed to Wautonna. Distance from Wino- 

150 miles. 

j i9£aiika.to, the county seat of Blue- 
krth County, is at the head of permanent 
lavigation in the Minnesota or St. Peter 
iver, 148 miles from its mouth. It is in 
ie midst of a fertile country, and must 
'^entually become a place of considerable 
iportance. Population 3,000. 
New Ulm. is a flourishing village on 
le Minnesota Eiver, 55 miles above Man- 
ito. It was laid out in 1856, and was 
e scene of the Indian massacre, Au- 
ist 19, 18(52. It now contains 1,000 in- 
ibitauts, mostly Germans. 
I l<^ai'ii>a,uit, the capital of Rice 
punty, situated at the confluence of the 
imion and Straight Rivers, and on the 
tinnesota Central Railway^ is one of the 
jost populous and thriving interior towns 
I the State. In 1853 it was the site of 
Jexander Faribault's trading-post. Since 
^5'7 its growth has been rapid, and 
!e present population is estimated at 
boo. The State Asylum iov the deaf 
id dumb, and an Episcopalian College, 
,6 located here. The National and the 
urron House are the leading hotels. 
iHisstiugs^ the county town of Da- 
tah County, is situated on the west bank 
tlic Mississippi River, three miles above 
e moutli of Lake St. Croix. It lies 
lon a bed of limestone, which furnishes 
r.ndaut building material. It was laid 
t in 1853, and now contains a popula- 
10 



•tion of between 3,000 and 4,000. It is 
the seat of the Minnesota Central Uni- 
versity. The Falls of the Vermilion 
River, south of the town, are 60 feet high, 
and well worthy a visit. 

Still"%va.ter. — St. Croix House. — 
Stillwater, in Washington Coimty, upon 
the west bank of Lake St. Croix, 20 miles 
from St. Paul, was first settled in 1843, 
and is rapidly becoming a populous and 
important place. Lai-ge steamers ply 
here. This is the point froni which to 
visit the Lake and Falls of the St. Croix. 

Taylor's Falls, the county seat 
of Chisago County, is on the west bank 
of St. Croix River, just below the Falls of 
St. Croix. A bridge connects the village 
with the Wisconsin shore. The Cascade 
House is the leading hotel. 

tialie City is pleasantly situated 
on the west shore of Lake Pepin, of which, 
and the villages of Pepin, Stockholm, and 
Maiden Rock, on the opposite or Wiscon- 
sin shore, it commands a fine view. It 
occupies the site of Fort Per rot, the first 
French military establishment in this re- 
gion, ei'ected in 1689. The town was 
surveyed and laid out in May, 1856. The 
Sugar-Loaf Peak and 3Iaiden Rock or 
Zover^s Leap should be visited. The lake 
aifords fine fishing. The Mlsworth and 
Lyon House are the leading hotels. 

ISed. Irving', the county town of 
Goodhue County, is on the right bank of 
the Mississippi, just below the mouth of 
Cannon River, and 6 miles north of Lake 
Pepin. Large amounts of grain are 
shipped here. It is on the proposed line 
of the St. Paul and Pacific Railway to 
Winona. It is the seat of Hamlin Uni- 
versity, and contains several church edi- 
fices and hotels. Population 2,600. 

"Waljaslaa-w, the county seat of 
Wabashaw County, is on the southwest 
bank of the MississipjDi, about opposite 
the mouth of the Chippewa River, 4 miles 
below Lake Pepin. It is 91 miles by 
water from St. Paul, and about 15 by 
land. The Court-House and one of the 
churches are fine edifices. Population, 
2,500. Hird^s Hotel. 

©^vatoMBia, the capital of Steele 
County, is situated on .the east side of 
Straight River, at the junction of the Wi- 
nona and St. Peter and Minnesota Central 
Railways. It is 15 miles south of Fari- 
217 



Rochester.] 



MINNESOTA. 



[Winona. 



bault, and 40 miles west of Rochester.' 
Population, 1,200. EureJca House. 

Mocliestcr, the capital of Olmsted 
Comity, is situated on the west bank of 
the Zurabro River, in the midst of a rich 
agricultural section, on the line of the 
Winona and Si. Peter Bail way, 40 miles 
west of the former town. The first set- 
tlements were made in 1854, near Cascade 
Creek. It is the most important wheat 
shipping station on the line of road west 
of Winona, and one of the most flourish- 
ing interior towns in the State. It con- 
tains a new Court-House, five church edi- 
fices, two newspaper offices {Republican 
and Post), and two good hotels, the Amer- 
ican and Stevens Houses. Population, 
4,500. 

Ke«l^vood. Falls, in the County 
of Redwood, 79 miles west of St. Peter, 
will eventually attract tourists. The 
town is in its infancy, containing about 
300 inhabitants. The fall is 30 feet 
perpendicular, over a solid granite ledge. 
The prairies in this neighborhood are 
very extensive, and herds of buffalo ai-e 
often seen. Hunting parties frequently 
meet here for the chase. 

CaBiMom Fa;lls are in Goodhue 
County. The village is situated at the 
confluence of the Big and Little Cannon 
Rivers. It was laid out in 1856, and 
has a fine water-power. 
218 



Chisago Lake and Green Lake afford 
fine fishing. Tliey are in Chisago County, 
38 miles northeast of St. Paul, and 14 
from Taylor's Falls. Chisago Citif is 
pleasantly situated between the two lakes, 
and contains a good hotel. The neigh- 
borhood of Columbus, in Onoka County, 
abounds in game, and the lakes with fish. 

■^^iiBLoiaa, the capital of Winona 
County, and one of the most flourishing 
cities of the State, is pleasantly situated 
on a beautiful prairie, on the west bank 
of the Mississippi River, 30 miles north 
of La Crosse, and 105 miles by land 
below St. Paul. With the latter cities it 
has daily communication by the Wiriona 
and St. Peter and Minnesota Central Rail- 
ways, via Owatonna. The Winona branch 
of the St. Paul and Pacific Raihcay will 
be completed to this point in 1868. The 
first white settlement was made here in 
1851, and was laid out as a town in the 
following year. In 1857 it was chartered 
as a city. It is the largest wheat market 
in the State, the receipts and shipments 
for 1865 amounting to three millions of 
bushels. It contains a spacious court- 
house and twelve church-edifices. The: 
State Normal School has a fine build- 
ing. The High School is also a spacious 
edifice, recently erected. Population (esti- 1 
mated), 6,000. Huff's Hotel, on Third i 
Street, has excellent accommodation. 



' m 



ViSCONSIN.] 



WISCONSIN. 



["Wisconsin. 



WISCOKSIX. 



Wisconsin was formed into a Territory 
1836, and came into the Union as late 
; 1848, though the country was visited, 
I was all the wilderness of which it was 
len a part, by the French missionaries 
.'0 centuries ago. Its growth has been, 
|id continues to he, unexampled any- 
liere, excepting in the surrounding new 
ates and Territories. 
It is bounded on the north by Minne- 
ta, part of Michigan, and Lake Supe- 
on the east by Lake Michigan ; on 
e south by Illinois, and on the west by 
wa and Minnesota. It is 285 miles 
and 250 broad, and embraces an 
lea of thirty-four and a half millions of 
res. 

The topographical aspect of Wisconsin 

very similar to that of other portions 

the Northwest section of the Union, 

eventing, for the most part, grand 

etches of elevated prnirie-land, some- 

nes 1,000 feet higher than the level of the 

;. Though there are no mountains in this 

■ate, there are the characteristic pltiteau 

Ilges of the latitude, formed by depres- 

:')ns, which drain the waters, and afford 

(Is for the rivers and lakes. The de- 

.^nt of the land toward Lake SujDerior 

ivery sudden, and the streams are full 

<i falls and rapids. 

IThe waters of Lake Superior and Lake 
5ichigan wash the northern and eastern 
lundaries of Wisconsin, and numberless 
Iser waters are scattered through the 
i.rior, and more abimdantly over the 
1 it I i western -counties. The shores of 

I so lakes abound in rich forest growth 

I I in rocky precipice, aflbrding numerous 
) ■! nresque views. The waters are clear, 
; 1 full of delicious fish. 

Lake Winnebago^ the largest of the 



interior waters of Wisconsin, lies soath- 
east of the middle of the State. Its 
length is about 28 miles, with a width of 
10 miles. The Fox or Neenah River 
unites with Green Bay, an arm of Lake 
Michigan. A singular rocky wall which 
might, in its regular formation, easily be 
supposed the work of art, instead of na- 
ture, follows the eastern shore of Win- 
nebago Lake for 15 miles. This wall rises 
through all its extent about five feet 
above the surface of the water, and sinks 
in places hundreds of feet below. Steam- 
boats navigate the lake. (See Oshkosh.) 

The Mississippi River forms much of 
the western boundary of Wisconsin, 
separating it from Iowa and Minnesota, 
with which States it thus shares the 
charming scenery of this portion of the 
great river — the noble expansion of 
Lake Pepin, with its bold precipices, 
and headland of the Maiden Rock, and 
the La Grange Mountain ; Mount Trem- 
peleau, in La Crosse County, with its per- 
pendicular chffs, 500 feet in height, and 
many other striking scenes. 

The Wisconsin River ^ the largest stream 
in the State, rises in a small lake called 
Vieux Desert, on the northern bound- 
ary, and flows southwesterly 600 miles 
to the Mississippi at Prairie du Chien. 
Shifting sandbars obstruct the navi- 
gation very much, yet steamboats as- 
cend as high as Portage City, 200 miles 
distant, by the windings of the river. At 
Portage City a ship-canal conducts small 
steamers to the waters of the Neenah 
or Fox River (the outlet of Lake Winne- 
bago), by which the navigation is con- 
tinued through the State, from the Mis- 
sissippi to Lake Michigan. 

The Wisconsin River presents many 
219 



Wisconsin.] 



WISCONSIN. 



[Railways. 



beautiful picturer. to the eye of the travel- 
ler. The remarkable passage called the 
Grandfather Bull Falls, where the waters 
break through a bold gorge a mile and 
a half in length, and flanked on either 
hand with rugged walls 150 feet in height, 
are well worth visiting. Some tine 
chalybeate springs add to the attractions 
of this charming spot, and promise to 
make it before long a favorite summer 
resort. 

Petenwell Peak, on the Wisconsin, 60 
miles below Grandfather BuU Falls, is a 
singular oval mass of rock, 900 feet in 
length and 300 wide, with an elevation 
above the surrounding country of 200 
feet. The summit for 70 feet is perpen- 
dicular, and the rocks in their fantastic 
groupings assume the most wonderful 
architectural appearances, almost per- 
suading the voyager that he is trans- 
ported back to feudal ages, and is pass- 
ing through a barbaric land of castled 
and battlemented heights. 

Fortification Rock is another interest- 
ing scene, a few miles below Petenwell 
Peak. The clifts here have a vertical 
elevation of 100 feet. At the Dalles of 
the Wisconsin the water passes for about 
six miles between hills of solid rock, 
in height from 30 to 100 feet. The nar- 
rowest width of the river here is 55 feet. 

The St. Louis River, which forms part 
of the boundary between Minnesota. and 
Wisconsin, is the original source of the 
St. Lawrence, and is remarkable for a 
series of bold rapids, called the Falls of 
St. Louis. Of this scene we have spoken 
in our mention of the landscape of Min- 
nesota. The Bad-axe, Black, Chippewa, 
the Rock, the Des Plaines, the Fox, and 
other rivers of Wisconsin, are much 
broken by cataracts and rapids. 

The antiquary, no less than the lover 
of natural beauty, may find in this 
State sources of pleasure, in objects 
scarcely less strange than the mystical 
relics of the Old World. Scattered ever}^- 
where over the plains of Wisconsin, are 
smgular structures of earth, known gen- 
erally as "Mounds." At Prairieville, 
there is one of these weird works, 56 feet 
in length, which is in the similitude of a 
turtle ; near the Blue Mounds is another, 
120 feet in length, representing a man 
iu a recumbent attitude; near Cassville 
220 






yet another of these eccentric labors has 
been found, made in the image of the ex- 
tinct mastodon. At Aztalan, in Jefiferso; 
County, there is an old fortification 5 
yards in length, and 275 wide. The wall 
are from 4 to 5 feet liigh, and more than 
20 feet thick. 

The Blue Mounds are in Dane county. 
The most elevated rises nearly 1,200 feet 
above the waters of the Wisconsin River. 

The forest scenery, and the ever-wel- 
come oak openings — tte oases of the 
prairie — will be among the gratifications 
of the nature-loving tourist in Wisconsin. 
The hunter may indulge his passion for 
the chase at will, whether he aspire to 
the wild game of the wilderness, or to the 
gentler sports by the brook-side. 

The State is divided into 58 counties, 
and contained a population in 1860 of 
775,881, of whom 1,171 were colored, and 
1,014 Indians. The entire population of 
the State is now estimated at one million. 

Madison is the capital, and Milwaukee 
the chief commercial city. Racine, Janes- 
ville, Oshkosh, Watertown, Beloit, Fond 
du Lac, Kenosha, and La Crosse are 
thriving cities. Manitowoc, Poi'tage City, 
and Green Bay are also rapidly becomiiial 
important places. w 

Railways. — The principal railwaf' 
lines in Wisconsin extend from Milwau- 
kee westward across the State to the 
Mississippi. The following list embraces 
all the lines now operated within the 
State, viz. ; 

The Milwaukee and Praine du Chien 
Railioay from Milwaukee to Milton (64 
miles) ; Chicago and Northwestern crossing 
and branch v'a Janesville (72 miles), and 
Monroe (106 miles); Madison (96 miles); 
Prairie du Chien (194 miles). The Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul Railway from Mil- 
waukee, via Watertown (43 miles) ; Por- 
tage City (91 miles); to La Crosse (195 
miles) ; Madison BrancJi (in progress) fr«m 
Watertown Junction (44 miles) lo Sun 
Prairie (71 miles) : Horicon Division, via 
Horicon Junction (52 miles) ; to Berlin (94 
miles) ; and Winneconna (103 miles). Chi- 
cago and Milwaukee Railway, itaxo. Milwau- 
kee via Racine (23 miles) ; Kenosha (33 
miles); to State line (30 miles); and 
Chicago (85 miles). Western Union Jtaii- 
way from Racine via Eikhorn (40 miles)'; 
to Beloit (69 miles). Chicago and North- 



ILWATTKEE.] 



WISCONSIN. 



[Milwaukee. 



tern Railway from Chicago via Crystal 
ke (43 miles) ; Harvard (63 miles) ; 
.BBSville (91 miles) ; Watertown (130 
las); Fond du Lac (1*77 miles); Osh- 
ish (194 miles); to Fort Howard (242 
fles) ; connecting at Fort Howard with 
pimers on Green Bay for Escanaba, 
pence the Peninsular division of the 

& N. W. R. R. connects with Mar- 
ette (75 miles). Kenosha and RocJc- 
rd Division from Kenosha to Harvard 

miles) ; where it connects with the 

in line. Bcloit and Madison Branchy 
fom Harvard, via Beloit (27 miles), to 
liidisou (75 miles). Milwaiikee and 
.'liiu'sota Railway^ from Milwaukee, via 
])ricon Junction (52 miles); to Portage 
< Y (90 miles). 

MILWAUKEE. 

Hotels : The Newlmll House is desir- 
siy located and handsomely furnished. 
GJe table fare is inferior. The Walker 
Muse. (recently enlarged) and the Juneau 
ikcse are on East Water Street, conve- 
dnt to the business portion of the city. 
|louTE. — From Chicago (85 miles), via 
iilcago and Milwaukee Railwai/. From 
Ijtvoit, by Detroit and Milwaukee Rail- 
m to Grand Haven (189 miles), and 
tilnce 85 miles by steamer across Lake 
L:[;higan. 

Milwaukee, the commercial capital of 
"VjSconsin, and, next to Chicago, the lar- 
g't city in the Northwest, is pleasantly 
s;iated on the west shore of Lake Michi- 
gi, at the mouth of the Milwaukee River. 
Ts river flows through the town, and, 
vih. the Menomonee, with which it foi-ms 
aliunctiou, divides it into three nearly 
eial districts, which are severally known 
ajthe East, West, and South divisions. 
Ip town lies ujDon the river flats, and 
u|n the bluffs which overlook the lake. 
li; Milwaukee River is navigable for the 
Irjest class of lake vessels for 2 miles 
fii|n its mouth, and forms one of the best 
hibors on the entire northwestern lake 
cet. Nearly half a milhon dollars have 
1 expended in its protection and im- 
loent. The peculiar color of the 
'• U'.vaukee brick," of which many of 
11 buildings are made, gives the city a 
VI? unique and pretty air. These fa- 
ni is bricks, which are much in fashion 



now all over the country, have a delicate 
cream or straw tint. Four steam brick- 
mills are in constant operation. In 
growth, this city of promise has kept 
pace with the rapid progress characteris- 
tic of the region. It w^as settled in 1835, 
incorporated in 1846, had a population in 
1840," of 1,751; in 1850, of 20,061 ; in 
1860, more than 45,000. Its present 
population is 65,000. There are 54 
church edifices of various denominations 
liere, and numerous excellent literary in- 
stitutions and schools. The most promi- 
nent church edifice is the Catholic Cathe- 
dral of St. Joh7i. The new Baptist 
church is also a handsome structure, just 
completed, at a cost of $35,000. The 
city, which embraces an area of 17 miles' 
square, is divided into 9 wards, and con- 
tains 130 streets, and upward of 12,000 
dwellings, 1,200 of which have been erect- 
ed since 1865. East Water and Spring 
Streets are very wide, handsome thor- 
oughfares, and the beautiful cream color 
and finish of the bricks with which they 
are largely constructed give to them, and 
mdeed to the whole city, a peculiarly 
chaste and attractive appearance. In- 
deed, the quality and color of the building 
material is quite characteristic of the lo- 
cahty, and has earned for it a preeminence 
as the " Cream City " of the lakes. The 
city is well lighted and paved. 

Among the prominent public buildings 
are the United States Custom-House, which 
also embraces the Post^Ofiice and United 
States courts. It is of Athens stone and 
stands ou the corner of Wisconsin and 
Milwaukee Streets. An appropriation of 
$120,000 is expected to be made for the 
purpose of a Court-House. There are eight 
banking houses, two of whicb are hand 
some edifices. The Music Hall is a hand- 
some apartment, with sittings for 2,300 
persons. It was erected in 1864, at a cost 
of $65,000, and is still owned by the Ger- 
man Musical Society. The Germans con- 
stitute nearly one-half of the entire popu- 
lation, and their influence upon the social 
life of the inhabitants is everywhere seen. 
Breweries and lager-bier saloons, gardens, 
gasthausen, music halls, and restaurants 
abound. Two distilleries and two brew- 
eries, costing in the aggregate $130,000, 
have recently been erected. The con- 
sumption of lager, for which Milwaukee 
221 



Madison.] 



WISCONSIN. 



[Kenosb 



is now so ftiruous throughout the Avhole 
West, is estimated at upward of 1,000,- 
000 gallons annually. Twenty-five firms 
are engaged in its manufacture, and the 
aggregate annual jiroduct is 2,600,000 
gallons. 

The theatre building known as the 
Academy of Music has 800 sittings. Be- 
sides these places of public resort, the 
city contains 15 halls and public assem- 
bly-rooms. 

The Milwaukee River has been dammed, 
and affords fine manufacturing fadhties. 
Among the more prominent industrial es- 
tablishments are the flouring-mills, four 
of which have been erected during the 
past year. That just built by Betschey 
and Kern, at a co.^t of §150,000, has a ca- 
pacity for making 1,000 barrels of flour 
daily, and is well worth visiting, as is 
also the grain elevator of the Milwaukee 
and St. Paid Railway. This immense 
structure has a storage capacity of one mil- 
lion and a balf bushels of wheat, and is 
one of the largest on the continent. Up- 
ward of 13,250,000 bushels of wheat, 
largely the product of the State, were ex- 
ported either in bulk or in flour in 1865. 
The total storage capacity of the grain ele- 
vators is estimated at five millions of bush- 
els. One of the largest rolling-mills in the 
West, that constructed by E. B. Ward, is 
located here. It is just completed, at a 
cost of $300,000, and is well worthy a 
visit from the stranger who has the neces- 
sary time at his disposal. Milwaukee, 
during late years, has become a great 
railroad centre, being second only to Chi- 
cago in that respect among the cities of 
the Northwest. The following embraces 
the most usually travelled routes: Mil- 
waukee and M'mnenota, foot of Chestnut ; 
Chicago and Northwestern., foot of Bar- 
clay; Detroit and Mil., Mil. and Prairie 
du Chicn, foot of Third Street ; Mil. and 
St. Paid, Union Depot. Steamers ply 
daily on Lake Michigan to Chicago and 
Green Bay during the season of naviga- 
tion. 

Madison . — Hotel, the Capitol 
Hou^e. 

liOUTE : See Chicago and Milwaukee 
for route from New York, Boston, etc. 
Thence by rail. 

Madison, the capital of the State, and 
the county seat of Dane County, is one 
222 



of the most beautiful and attractive towns 
iu the Northwest. It is situated in the 
centre of a broad valley, enclosed by high 
grounds, occupying an isthmus between 
the Third and Fourth (Mendota) Lake. 
Meudota or Fourth Lake upon the upptT 
side of the city, is about six miles by lour 
miles in area. The Third Lake is sonjc- 
what smaller ; both are exceedingly pictur- 
esc^ue waters, deep enough for steamboat 
navigation. The city lies in the very 
heart of the " Four Lake Country," which 
may be regarded as the Westmoreland of 
the New World. The lakes are severally 
know^n as Mendota, Menona, Wardjexa, 
Yahara, and Peshugo. Except a log 
cabin, there was not a single structure 
upon the site of Madison, when it was se- 
lected iu 1836 for the capital of tiie State; 
yet in 1860 the population had reached 
nearly 7,000. The streets of this beauti- 
ful city drop down pleasantly toward the 
shores of the surrounding lakes. Madi- 
son perhaps comj)ines and overlooks more 
charming and diversified scenery than any 
other town in the West, or than any other 
State capital in the Union. Its high 
lakes, fresh gTOves, ripphng rivulets, 
shady dales, and flowery meadow lawnSj 
are eommmgled in greater profusion, and 
disposed in more picturesque order, than 
we have ever elsewhere beheld. The 
Capitol cost $150,000 to build. It is a 
limestone edifice, situated in the centre 
of a public park of 14 acres, 70 feet 
above the level of the lakes. This site, 
being the highest land between Lakes 
Mendota and Menona, commands some 
fine views. The University of Wiscp'imn^ 
founded in 1849, occupies an eminence 
(College Hill) a mile west of the capitol, 
and 125 feet above the lakes. The State 
Historical Society and the State Limalic 
Asylum are located here. The CourU 
House and Jail occupy the southern cor- 
ner of the public square. 

K.eiioslaa. — Hotel, City Hotd.— 
Kenosha is pleasantly situated on a bluff 
which rises ou the western shore of Lake 
Michigan, 8 miles below Racine. It has 
railway communication north, south, and 
west by the Chicago and Milwaukee and 
the Kenosha and Rockford Railways. It 
is 52 miles above Chicago (by railroad or 
by water), and 33 miles below Milwaukee. 
The town was laid out in 1836, and being, 



I 



VNESTILLE.] 



WISCONSIN. 



[Appleton. 



;e most southerly port in the State, was 
log known as Southport. Population, 

poo. 

iJamcsTille. — Hotel, the Hyatt 
b'usc. — Janesville, the capital of Eock 
^unty, and one of the most attractive 
d flourishing towns in the State, is de- 
^htfully located upon Rock lliver, 45 
3|'!es southeast of Madison. A bi'anch 
f the railway between Milwaukee and 
!)[idison, extends to Janesville ; junction, 

Milton. It is reached from Chicago, 

miles, by the Norilnoestern Railway^ 
^d from Milwaukee, 70 miles, by the Mil- 
\%uTcee and Prairie du Cliien Railway^ 
^ Milton junction. The Court-Ho-me 
iijd other public buildings are fine struc- 
li-es. It was settled in 1836, and incor- 
]ii-ated 1853. The vicinity has pleasant 
Tllks and drives. Population, 8,500. 
'|e manufacture of paper is extensively 
jbsecuted here. 

l^oH.«l elsi Kiac — Hotel, the Lewes 
\me — at the south end or head of Win- 
rbago Lake and on the Chicago and 
Mrthwestern Railway, 1'7'7 miles north 
q Chicago and 65 rciles south of Port 
I ward — is a place much resorted to by 
t ivellers in the Noi'thwest. It is on the 
dfect route to Green Bay and the cop- 
pi region of Lake Superior. (See the 
Ike Region.) Pond du Lac is remark- 
alp, amoug other things, for its Artesian 
'RJls, which are so numerous that nearly 
eiry household has its own. They vary 
iijlepth from 90 to 130 feet. The lum- 
bs business is extensively carried on. 
F-Dulation, 1 0,700. Communication be- 
t'jen Winnebago Lake and Green Bay is 
ca-ied on by steamboats on Pox River, 
(k© Lake Winnebago.) 

^'eeniili, at the foot of the lake on 
tliwest bank, is a pretty Uttle village, 
wji a population of between 2,000 and 
8.|t0, and good hotel accomodations for 
vJtors. 

• ilesiaslia is a small town on Zake 
Bi/e des J/oris, 35 miles from Green 
B. 

&slfil»:osli, 17 miles north of Pond 
lu.ac, and 194 miles north of Chicago by 
\i Xorthwestcrn I'oad, lies pleasantly on 
oh west side of Lake Winnebago, near 
tb mouth of Pox River. It is a very 
'!( fishing town, already numbering over 
•, inhabitants, and is much resorted 



to during the summer months. Imme- 
diately above the town the Pos River 
widens out into the Lake Butte des Marts. 
Oshkosh is the entrance to the great 
pine region of Wisconsin. A visit to 
the saw-mills will repay the traveller. 
More than 50,000,000 feet of lumber are 
manufactured annually. Wolf River, the 
main channel of communication with the 
pine region, is navigable for steamboats 
a distance of 100 miles. (See Lake Win- 
nebago.) 

Appleiom is pleasantly situated on 
an emineuce .overlooking the Pox River, 
30 miles from its mouth, 5 miles fi'om 
Lake Winnebago, and 214 from Chica- 
go by the Northwcsteo-n Railway ; from 
Milwaukeel 77 miles, via Milton Junction. 
The rapids, known as the Grand Chute, 
have a descent of about 30 feet in a dis- 
tance of one mile and a half. It is the seat 
of Laiorence University. The scenery in 
the vicinity is attractive. The approach 
to Appleton from Green Bay presents 
some of the most picturesque scenes to 
be. found in this region. 

Little Chute, Kaukauna, Wriffhisiown, 
and Dc Pere, are small places having 
stations on the Northwestern road, be- 
tween Appleton and Port Howard, the 
terminus of the Wisconsin division of 
the Northwestern Railway. 

4Si'eeia Hay City, opposite Port 
Howard, with which it is connected by a 
free drawbridge, is a place of some in- 
terest to Lake Superior and Green Bay 
tourists. The steamers on Lake Michi- 
gan and the bay all stop here. The 
descent in the Pox River affords fine 
manufacturing facilities, which have been 
considerably employed. (See Green Bat.) 
The trip northward up the lake is a fa- 
vorite one with those who have taken it 
during the summer months. The steamer 
runs daUy during the season of naviga- 
tion, on the arrival of the cars from 
Chicago, for Pscanalja, Marquette, and 
ports on Lake Superior. The trip be- 
tween Port Howard and Marquette occu- 
pies 15 hours, 12 of which are passed in 
making the voyage on Green Bay. 

ISeloit. — Beloit is upon the south- 
ern boundary of the State, on the Beloit 
and Madison Branch oi the Northwestern 
Railway, 90 miles from Chicago and 48 
miles from Madison. From Milwaukee, 
223 



Watertown.] 



WISCONSIN. 



J 

[GiiEEx Bat. w 



by railway, it is distant 18 miles. Beloit 
is built on a beautiful plain, on the banks 
of the picturesque Kock River. It was 
incorporated in 1856, and is famous for 
its elegant churches and fine streets. 
Jjeloit College, founded in 1846, is a 
flourishing institution. 

■^Vatei'to^via, on Rock River, at 
the intersection of the Chicago and Norih- 
westeni ar.d the Milwaukee and St. Paul 
Haibvays, 43 miles from Milwaukee and 
130 from Chicago, has grown to be a 
place of considerable importance in the 
last few years. It was settled in 1836, 
and now contains upward of 7,000 in- 
habitants. The rapids in the Rock Riv- 
er above the town should be visited. 
The fall of 24 feet furnishes an abundant 
water-power. 

Foi't Atl^iifflsoii, on the Worth- 
western road, 19 miles north of Water- 
town, is an old military post and settle- 
ment on Rock River. 

"fWawIcesIaa, once. called Prairie- 
rille, is upon the llilwaukee and Prairie 
du Chien Bailwag, 25 miles from Milwau- 
kee and 11 from Madison. It is situated 
upon Pishtuka or Fox River, at the ex- 
tremity of a fine prairie. It is the seat 
of' Carroll College, founded 1846. Pop- 
ulation, 3,000. 

^Vltite ^"Wjater, 30 miles from 
Waukesha and 51 from Milwaukee, by 
the Prairie du Chien line, is a thriving 
town, laid out in 1840. It has an ex- 
tensive paper-mill and other manufactur- 
ing establishments. Population, 3,000, 
and increasing rapidly. 

Prairie An ClaleBi^ the terminus 
of the Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien 
Railway, is situated on the Mississippi 
River, 194 miles west of Milwaukee, 229 
miles northwest of Chicago, and 4 miles 
north of the Wisconsin River. It is con- 
nected with the young town of McGregor, 
Iowa, by ferry. 

Shortage City is at the head of 
navigation on the Wisconsin River. It is 
upon the route of the La Crosse Railway, 
91 miles from Milwaukee. The site of Por- 
tage City was formerly known as Winne- 
bago Portage, and still earher as Old Fort 
Winnebago. The Fox River Canal, which 
unites the waters of the Wisconsin River 
with Lake Michigan, passes near the town. 

224 



Lumber constitutes the staple article of 
commerce. 

SBael>oyg-asi is at the entrance of 
Sheboygan River into Lake Micliigan, 62 
miles north of Milwaukee. Steamboats 
up and down the lake call here. 

Manitowoc is also upon Lake Michigan, 
30 miles above Sheboygan, and 93 miles 
north of Milwaukee. 

l^aciue. — Hotel, Congress Hall. 

Racine is a beautiful city, situated on 
the west shore of Lake Michigan, at the 
mouth of Root River, 23 miles soutli by 
east of Milwaukee, and 02 north of Chi- 
cago. It is the second city of the State 
in population and commerce, and has one 
of the best harbors on the lake, formed 
by the mouth of the river, which admits 
vessels drawing over 12 feet of water. It 
was settled in 1835 and incorporated in 
1848. The Racine and Mississipjn Rail- 
way connects the city with the Mississip- 
pi River at Savanna, 111. Population, 
11,000. The public schools are among 
the best in the State. Over $80,000 have 
been expended by the citizens in the con- 
struction of a harbor, $30,000 for school 
buildings, and $350,000 for railways. 

Platteville and Mineral Point are grow- 
ing places in the heart of the lead region 
of Southwestern Wisconsin and North- 
western Illinois. The former is in Grant, 
the latter in Iowa County. (For routes, 
see Galena.) A branch of the Illinois 
Central from Warren leads to Mineral 
Point. 

i&reem Bay. — On leaving the City i 
of Green Bay in one of the steamers of . 
the Green Bay Transit Company for i 
Escanaba, 100 miles, the tourist passes i 
through one of the most beautiful sheets * 
of water, connecting with Lake Michigan . 
on the north. 

The harbor of Green Bay is formed by 
the Fox or Neenah River, ivhich here en- i 
ters from the south, the outward channel i 
being crooked and circuitous until the n 
light-house, 1 miles distant, is passed, i 
when the bay viidens, and a large expanse ; 
of water is presented to view. 

Oconto, 30 miles north of Gi'een Bay, ; 
having daily communication by steam- i 
boat, is a flourishing lumbering village : 
lying on the west side of the bay, near 
the mouth of a river of the same name. 



EDAK RiVEK.] 



WISCONSIN. 



[ESCANABA. 



Little Sturgeon Point (40 miles) lies on 
le east shore of the bay. 
' Sturgeon Bay is a deep indentation, 
[inning nearly across the neck of land 
hich separates Green Bay from Lake 
ichigan ; it is proposed to construct a 
lip canal to connect them. 
Jlcnomonee (58 miles) lies at- the mouth 
the river of the same name, which 
;mis the dividing hne between the States 
Wisconsin and Michigan. This is a 
irge and flourishing lumbering village, 
hence are annually shipped large quan- 
Ities of lumber to Chicago and Eastern 
larkets. 

j Green Island (60 miles), nearly mid- 
ay between the termini of the boat 
ute, lies in the middle of the bay, where 
a light-house to guide the mariner. 
Hat Island and Straivherry Island are 
aall tracts of land passed on the east, 
!ar the main shore. 

Cliamheris Island (75 miles) is a large 
id fertile body of land, lying near the 
iddle of the bay, which is here about 20 
lies wide. 

Forte des Morts {Death's Boor) is the 
trance into Lake Michigan, separating 
mainland from Washington Island, 
the north, which is attached to the 
ate of Michigan. To the east lie the 
oad waters of Lake Michigan. 
Cedar River (90 miles) enters from 
|e west, where is a lumbering establish- 
nt, the whole west shore of Green Bay 
oduciug a heavy growth of pine and 
ler kinds of timber. 
Leaving Cedar River the steamer's 
urse Ues for LilLle Bay de Noqvet, 30 
|les distant, affoi-ding a view of the 
ters of Lake Michigan on the east, 
ile to the north lies Great Bay de 
quet, about 10 miles wide and 20 miles 
length. 

Pensaickee, Peslitigo, and other towns 
springing up on the west shore of 



Green Bay, where are to be found numer- 
ous large lumber establishments, situ- 
ated on the streams running into the 
bay. 

Escanaba is a new and promising town 
in Michigan, situated on the western 
shore of Little Bay de Noc, 120 miles 
north of the city of Green Bay, and is the 
southern terminus of the Peninsular Rail- 
road of Micliigan. This place, laid out 
in the spring of 1864, has a good and se- 
cure harbor, of easy access, with a suf- 
ficient depth of water for the largest class 
of vessels navigating the lakes. The 
docks erected by the railroad company 
are of a substantial and commodious char- 
acter, intended for the transshipment of 
iron and copper ore from the Lake Supe- 
rior mines, distant about 65 miles. 

The site of the town lies on Sand Point, 
where is a favorable view of the waters 
of Green Bay lying to the south, and 
Little Bay de Noc on the north. The 
streets are laid out at right angles, with 
ample public grounds adjoining the water- 
front. The future of this place is hard to 
predict, its growth being identified with 
the rich mineral deposits of the Upper 
Peninsula of Michigan, bordering on Lake 
Superior. Good hotel accommodation. 

The Peninsular Railroad runs from the 
wliarf at Escanaba, through a new and 
wild section of country to Negaunee, 62 
miles, there intersecting the Bay de No- 
quet and Marquette Railroad^ 13 miles 
above Marquette, forming a through line 
of travel. 

The Bay de Noquet and Marquette and 
the Marquette and Ontonagon Railroads 
form a connection at the iron mines, and 
now extend to Lake Michigommi, 40 miles 
from Marquette. This important road is 
rapidly extending to Ontonagon, 120 miles, 
also, to Portage Lake, thus connecting 
the iron and copper regions of Lake Su- 
perior. 

225 



Michigan.] 



MICHIGAN. 



[MlOUlQAM. i 



MICHIGAN 



Michigan, one of the more recently 
settled of the great States of the Forth- 
west, embraces two peninsulas, the lower 
or southern lying between Lake Michigan 
on the west and Lakes Huron, St. Clair, 
and Erie on the east ; and the northern, 
between Lake Superior on the north, and 
Lakes Michigan and Huron on the south. 
The northern peninsula is about 320 miles 
long and 130 in its greatest breadth, 
and the southern 238 miles from north to 
south and 200 from east to west. United- 
ly they embrace thirty-five and a half 
millions of acres, of which less than four 
millions are improved. The unique char- 
acter of the scenery of the upper penin- 
sula of Michigan, and the present easy 
means of access, pi-omise in the course of 
a few years to make this region one of 
the most popular summer resorts in the 
Union. Excepting in portions of its 
southern boundary, this State is every- 
where surrounded by the waters of the 
Great Lakes, insomuch that it has a coast 
of nearly 1,100 miles. Of this immense 
lake-coast, 350 miles belong to Lake Su- 
perior, as much more to Lake Michigan, 
300 to Lake Huron, 40 to Lake Erie, and 
30 to St. Clair. Besides these grand 
waters which encompass the State about 
like a girdle, there are many beautiful 
ponds scattered over the interior, and 
bearing thither the picturesque beauty of 
the shores. The southern peninsula is 
more interesting in an agricultural than 
in a pictorial point of view. It is in sur- 
face notably unvaried — a vast plain, un- 
dulating indeed, but not broken by any 
elevations worthy of mention. It has, 
however, peculiar features which will in- 
terest the traveller, in its great . prairie 
lauds and that special characteristic of 
226 



the Western landscape — the OaJc Ope^ 
ings — a species of natural park meagrely 
covered with trees. The shores, however, 
even of this part of Michigan, arc often 
picturesquely varied, with steep banks 
and bluffs, and shifting sand-hills, reach- 
ing, sometimes, a height of 200 feet or 
more. The romantic portion of the " Lake 
State " is in the upper peninsula, which 
is rich in all the features of rugged 
rocky coast, of the most fantastic and 
striking character, in beautiful streams, 
rapids, and cascades. Here, making a 
part of the scenery of Lake Superior (see 
the Lake Kegion), are the Wisconsin, or 
Porcupine Mountains, 2,000 feet in height^ 
and those strange huge castellated masses 
of sandstone, celebrated as the Pictured 
Rocks. The famous straits of Mackinaw 
unite the converging floods of Lakes 
Huron and Michigan at the extreme north- 
em apex of the lower peninsula, and the 
beautiful Sault de St. Marie conducts the 
wondering tourist from Lake Huron to 
Lake Superior on the north. The St. 
Mary separates the upper peninsula at its 
northeastern extremity from Canada. The 
Pictured Rocks are a.bout 60 miles west 
of this passage. Here white-fish and 
other finny game are caught in great 
quantities. The rivers of Michigan are 
chiefly small streams, but many of them, 
especially those in the mountain districts 
of the north, are replete with pleasant i 
subjects for the pencil of the artist. 

The history of this State has more > 
points of interest than we are apt to find i 
in this section of the Union, recording as i 
it does some memorable incidents of In- ■• 
dian adventure, and important exploits in 
the American and English War of 1812. 
The first settlements were made at De- 



Iailwats.] 



MICHIGAN. 



[Deteoit. 



I'oit and Mackinaw, toward the close of 
lie seventeenth century. After England 
ad dispossessed tlie French, there arose 
mong the Indian tribes the famous chief- 
lin Pontiac, who availed himself of the 
pportunity afforded by the outburst of 
le Revolution, to attempt the entire ex- 
ulsion of the white invaders of his au- 
stral lauds. The chief planned a general 
ttack upon all the English forts on the 
kes, massacred the garrison at Macki- 
aw, and laid siege, for some months, to 
etroit. In 1805, Michigan, which prior 
> that date formed part of the Northwest 
erritory, was formed into a separate 
ri'itory. 

From its contiguity to Canada, Michi- 
in was called early into the field in the 
^ar of 1812. Detroit was surrendered 
I the enemy by General Hull, August 
)th, the fort at Mackinaw having already 
;en captured. A number of American 
isoners of war were butchered by the 
idians at Frenchtown on the 22d of 
muary, 1813. The State suffered at 
is period many trials, until General 
arrison at length drove the British into 
mada, carrying the war into their own 
)untry. Detroit was not surrendered to 
e United States until 1*796. Michigan 
,me into the Union as an independent 
,ate in the year 1837, and has since 
pidly advanced in population, wealth, 
^d production. The State is divided into 
J counties, and contains several hand- 
ime cities and towns ; among the most 
iportant are Detroit, Lansing, the capi- 
|l, Grand Rapids, Adrian, Kalamazoo, 
bn Arbor, Jackson, and Monroe. The 
jbpulation of tlie State in 1860 was 
[1:9,113, of whom upward of 3,000 were 
dians. 

Railways. — The Michigan Central 
\ailway extends 28-1 miles from Detroit 

Chicago. 

The Jackson, Laiising, and Saginaio 

lilwai/, 30 miles to Lansing. 

The Michigan SoiUhern, in connection 
ith the Northern Indiana Railway, trav- 
>^L'S the southern line of Michigan and 
:e upper line of Indiana, 244 miles from 
pledo to Chicago. 

The Detroit and Milwankee Railway 
flsses the State, 189 miles, from Detroit 
I Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, oppo- 
se Milwaukee. 



The Arnboy, Lansing, and Traverse Bay 
Railway, 28 miles from wosso to Lansing, 
the State capital. 

The Great Western (Canada.) Raihoay 
has its western terminus at Windsor, op- 
posite Detroit. The Grand Trunk Rail- 
way connects at Detroit with the Michi- 
gan Central, Detroit and Milwaiilcee, and 
Michigan Southern Railways. 

The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Rail- 
way, from Detroit south to Toledo, Ohio, 
65 miles. 

The Jackson Branch of the Michigan 
Southern Railway, from Adrian north to 
Jackson, on the Michigan Central, 45 
miles. 

The Monroe Branch, from Monroe to 
Adrian, 32 miles. 



DETKOIT. 

Hotels, the Russell House ; the Bid- 
die House ; the Michigan ExcJiange. 

Routes. — ^From New York. By the 
Hudson River or Harlem Railway to 
Albany, thence by the Centred Raihvay to 
Buffalo or Niagara Falls, or to Buffalo 
and Niagara by the New York and E7-ie 
Railway. (See these routes elsewhere.) 
From Buffalo or Niagara take the Great 
Western Raihvay (Canada), to Windsor, 
opposite Detroit. Total distance from 
New York, about 6*73 miles. Detroit may 
also be pleasantly reached from Buffalo 
or Dunkirk, via Cleveland, Sandusky City, 
and Toledo, Ohio, by the railways on the 
southern shore of Lake Erie, or by the 
Lake Erie steamers. From Chicago to 
Detroit, by the Michigan Centred or by the 
Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana 
Railways ; distance by the former 284 
miles, by the latter 309 miles. Pullman's 
sleeping-cars on night trains. 

Detroit is one of the great commercial 
depots of the West, and the chief city of 
Michigan. It is pleasantly situated upon 
the west side of the Detroit River, a link 
in the chain of waters which unite Lake 
Huron and Lake Erie. This strait, for 
such it is, gives the city its French name 
— clefroit. It is here about half a mile 
in width, and is charmingly dotted with 
beautiful islands. The city is distant 18 
miles from the head of Lake Erie, and 8 
miles from the outlet of Lake St. Clair. It 
22*7 



1 



Lapsing.] 



MICHIGAN. 



[Grand Havkn, 



occupies a position equally advantageous 
for commerce and picturesque for travel, 
being directly in the way of the tide of travel 
and transportation from the Atlautic to the 
Mississippi, and great railways and steam- 
ers, with their freights, necessarily pay- 
ing it tribute. Detroit was founded by 
the French in 18*70. It was the capital 
of the State from 1836 until ]84'7, when 
it was removed to Lansing. The city 
embraces an area of about 10 square 
miles, laid out in wide streets and ave- 
nues, and lighted with gas. Jefferson and 
Woodward Avenues, and Congress Street, 
are fine tli or ough fares. The Campus 
Mariiics is its most attractive public 
square. There is a fine open area called 
the Grand Circus, toward which the 
avenues of that part of the city lying back 
of the river converge. The Old State- 
House is a noteworthy edifice, with its 
dome and its tall steeple overlooking the 
town and its environs, Lake St. Clair 
above, and the Canadian shores. The 
City Hall is a brick structure, with a 
fa9ade 100 feet in length. The city pos- 
sesses also a fine Custom-Tlouse, and other 
public edifices, aud many elegant private 
residences. 

Detroit has in late years become an ex- 
tensive manufacturing point. The copper 
and iron smelting-works above and below 
the city are worth visiting. 

Among the most noteworthy edifices 
are its churches, and its benevolent and 
cliaritable institutions. Of the latter, the 
Jndnstrial School, the Harper, and St. 
Mary's and Marine Hospitals, and the 
Orphan Asylum, are the best worth visit- 
ing. Lines of street cai'S afford ready 
communication with every part of the 
city aud suburbs. The residence of the late 
General Lewis Cass is among the objects 
of interest. Detroit has a large and 
growing trade with Lake Superior, and 
this is the best point from which to take 
steamer for the upper peninsula of Mich- 
igan, and the famous copper-mines of 
that region. Population, 63,000. Wind- 
sor, tlie terminus of the Grca.i Western 
(Canada) Railway, opposite Detroit, is 
reached by ferry. (For means of com- 
munication with other cities, see Rail- 
ways.) 

1- a 11 s 1 Bi g .—Hotel, the Laiisine/ 
House. 

228 



Lansing, the capital of Michigan, is 
upon the Grand River, 110 miles north- 
west of Detroit. The Amboy, Lansing, 
and Traverse Bay Railway connects it 
with Owosso on the Detroit and Milviait- 
kee Railway (28 miles). Lansing became 
the seat of the State government in 1847, 
at which period it was almost a wilder- 
ness. The State-House is a spacious 
structure situated on an eminence over- 
looking Grand River. The population of 
the city is now about 4,000. 

Amu Arljor is a flourishing place 
of 9,000 inhabitants, upon the line of the 
Michigan Central Railway, 3*7 miles west 
of Detroit. It is the seat of the StaUh 
University, founded in IBS'/. This insti- 
tution is liberally endowed, and has about 
800 students, and a library of 10,000 
volumes. 

"STpsilamti.— Hotel, the Hawkins 
House. 

Ypsilanti, 30 miles west of Detroit, on 
the line of the Central Raihuay, is on the 
Huron River, and in the midst of a fine 
farming district. The State JSFormal 
School is a fine institution. It contains 
some important manufactories. Popula- 
tion, 3, 700. 

Moiii'oe City. — Hotel, Strong''s 
Hotel. 

Monroe City, one of the principal 
towns of Micliigan, and the capital of 
Monroe County, is upon the Raisin River, 
2 miles from Lake Erie, and 41 miles be- 
low Detroit, and 24 miles uorth of Toledo 
by the Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Rail- 
way. The Court-Hou.'ie is a fine stoue 
edifice, erected at a cost of $35,000. 
Large quantities of wheat are shipped 
hence. Monroe was settled by the French 
about 1776. 

CSs'saiad. Ma^^^eia, on Lake Michi- 
gan, is the W'cstern terminus of tlie De- 
troit and Milwaukee Railway. It is situ- 
ated on a fine site at the mouth of the 
Grand River, directly opposite the beauti- 
ful aud flourishiug city of Milwaukee. It 
has an excellent hai'bor formed by the! 
river and bays, extending some 131 
miles, with a depth of water from 30: 
to 50 feet, sufficient for vessels of the! 
largest size. The entrance to "the harboi , 
is 650 feet wide. The distance froir 
Grand Haven to Milwaukee is 80 miles 
A line of transit steamers, fitted uj 



.. 



J'^ 



AND Rapids.] 



MICHIGAN. 



[Adrian. 



the most costly manner, with every 
jard for safety and comfort of pas- 
igers, plies twice daily between the 
3 ports, in connection with the regu- 
trains over the Detroit and Milwau- 
and Milwaukee and St. Paid Rail- 
ys. Steamers up and down Lake 
3bigan touch here. 

J"3acl4:son. is situated on Grand 
'er, and at the intersection of the 
chigan Central and Jackson Branch 
the Michiffan Southern Railways, 76 
es west of Detroit. The State Peni- 
■iiary is well Avorthy a visit. About 
3 hundred convicts are here employed 
mechanical labor. It has several fine 
irch edifices and a seminary for young 

(les. 
ffiraiatl ES.api«is, the capital of 
it County, and the second city of the 
te, is situated at the rapids of Grand 
Bier, 32 miles east of Grand Haven, and 
}.] miles west of Detroit. It is pleas- 
iily located on both banks of the river, 
a:' commands some fine views. It was 
-(led in 1833 and incorporated in 1850. 
T; river is 300 yards wide, and falls 18 



feet within a mile, producing abundant 
water-power. Pleasant trips may be 
made by boat above the falls to Lyons, 
50 miles, or below to the mouth of the 
river, where connection is made with the 
lake steamers. Population, 9,000. 

Acii-ia.!!, the county seat of Lena- 
wee County, lies on a branch of the Eaisin 
River at the intersection of the Micliigan 
Southern and the Monroe and Jackson 
Branches, 33 miles from Toledo, 32 miles 
from Monroe, 73 miles from Detroit, 
and 45 miles from Jackson. It has 
several large manufactories. Tile public 
buildings are commodious and substan- 
tial. Population, 7,000. 

Maiamiazoo, 143 miles west of 
Detroit and 141 east of Chicago, via the 
Central Raihvay, stands on the left bank 
of the Kalamazoo River. The College 
and State Insane Asylum are prominent 
edifices. 

Maa-slaall, 36 miles east of Kala- 
mazoo, is mainly interesting to the travel- 
ler on the Central road, as the dining 
station on the morning trains from Chica- 
go and Detroit. 

229 



Kansas.] 



KANSAS. 



[Kansas. 



KAI^TS AS 



Kansas, one of the new States west 
of the Mississippi, extends from 37° to 
40" north latitude, in the same belt as 
Northern Kentucky and Virginia, and 
Southern Indiana and Illinois. It is 630 
miles in its extreme length and 209 miles 
in its greatest width. It is bounded 
eastward by Missouri, northward by Ne- 
braska, westward by Colorado, and south- 
ward by New Mexico and Indian Terri- 
tory. It is divided into 45 counties, and 
embraces an area of 80,000 square miles. 
The capital, Topeka, is pleasantly situated 
on the south bank of the Kansas River. 
Its principal city is Leavenworth on the 
Missouri. The other chief towns are Law- 
rence, Atchison, Wyandotte, Fort Scott, 
and Manhattan. It was organized as a 
Territory, May 29, 1854, and admitted as 
a State, January 30, 1861. The popula- 
tion, which now amounts to nearly 
180,000, is mainly distributed through 
the eastern portion of the State. 

The prevailing landscape features of 
Kansas are those of gently alternating 
ridges, or terrace and valley. The coun- 
try is a vast undulating plain from the 
eastern side to the base of the mountain 
ranges on the west. 

The face of the country is beautiful 
beyond comparison. The prairies, though 
broad and expansive, stretching away 
miles in many places, seem never lonely 
or wearisome, being gently undulating, 
or more abruptly rolling; and, at the 
ascent of each new roll of land, the trav- 
eller finds himself in the midst of new 
loveliness. There are also high bluffs, 
usually at some little distance from the 
rivers, running through the entire length 
of the country, while ravines run from 
them to the rivers. These are, at some 
230 



points, quite deep and difficult to cross, 
and, to a traveller unacquainted with the 
country, somewhat vexatious, especially 
where the prairie grass is as high as a 
person's head, while seated in a caniage.; 
There is little trouble, however, if travel- 
lers keep back from the water-course?,{ 
and near the high lands. These ravin^i; 
are, in many instances, pictures of beautyjt 
with tall, graceful ti-ees, cotton-woodyj 
black walnut, hickory, oak, elm, and lin-i! 
wood, standing near, while springs of 
pure cold water gush from the rock. The ; 
bluffs are a formation unknown, in forni 
and appearance, in anj' other j^ortion oi 
the West. At a little distance, a perso^ 
can scarcely realize that art had noi 
added her finishing touches to a worJ 
which nature had made singularly bean 
tiful. Many of the bluffs appear like thi 
cultivated groundf. about fine old res 
dences within the Eastern States, terrac 
rising above terrace, with great regularitji 
while others look like forts in the dii 
tance. In the eastern part of the Stat 
most of the timber is upon the rivers an 
creeks ; though there are in some plaOi 
most delightful spots, high hills, crownn 
with a heavy growth of trees, and ded 
vales, M'here rippling waters gush amidi 
dense shade of flowering shrul^bery. 

Higher than the bluffs are natat: 
mounds, which also have about them-fc 
look of art. They rise to such a heightr 
to be seen at a great distance, and add Jl 
culiar beauty to the whole appearance 
the country. From the summit of these t 
prospect is almost unlimited in extet 
and unrivalled in beauty. The prair 
for miles, with its gentle undulatio' 
lies before the eye. Rivers ghstening 
the sunlight, flow on between bai ^ 



jiNSAa] 



KANSAS. 



[EOUTES. 



iwned with tall trees ; beyond these, 
ler high points arise. Trees scattered 
re and there, like old orchards, and 
tie in large numbers are grazing upon 
1 3 hill-side and in the valleys, giving to 
a the look of cultivation and home-life. 
lis, indeed, difficult to realize that for 
tjusands of years this country has been 
f waste, uncultivated and sohtary, and 
tit but a few years have elapsed since 
tj white settler has sought here for a 
Irae. 

The climate differs materially from that 
(fthe same latitude farther east. With 
clear, dry atmosphere, and gentle, 
l|»lth-giving breezes, it is favorable to 
-door pursuits and pleasures. The 
uliar clearness of the atmosphere can- 
be imagined by a non-resident. For 
es here a person can clearly distin- 
sb objects which at the same distance 
any other part of this country he could 

see at all. 

Che summers are long, and winters 
Bprt. The winters are usually very mild 
1 open, with little snow — none falling 
the night, save what the morrow's sun 
1 quickly cause to disappear. So mild 
they that the cattle of the Indians, 
hose of the settlers in Western Mis- 
ri, feed the entire year in the prairies 
river-bottoms. The Indians say that 
c in about seven years Kansas sees a 
1 and severe winter, with snows of a 
It in depth. Two weeks of cold weather 
talleJ a severe winter. Then the spring- 
he weather comes in February; the 
th begins to grow warm, and her fer- 
t| bosom ready to receive the care of 
husbandman. 
6l few years ago, the only white set- 
tljiients in Kansas as in Nebraska, were 
t| United States mihtary stations, but 
ny pleasant cities and towns are spring- 
iil up over all the land. 

hiwuee, on the north branch of the 
KJisas, 12 miles west of the confluence 
jic Big Blue River, was designated as 
tl place of meeting of the first Legisla- 
h'>. July 2, 1855. It was adjourned on 
ii of July, without the sanction of 
Hjvernor, to the Shawnee mission, 
a(iL' Westport. 

touTES. — The most direct routes by 

"■' li to reach Kansas from the East 

le JPaciJic and the North Missouri 



Railways^ from St. Louis ; and the Chica- 
go, Burlington, and Qaincy, and Hannibal 
and St. Joseph Railways, from Chicago. 
Connections are made on these routes at 
Leavenworth and Wyandotte by the 
Union Pacific (M D.) Railway with 
Lawrence, Topeka, Manhattan, Fort 
Riley, and Junction City. The steam- 
boat route from St. Louis by the Mis- 
souri River to Leavenworth (distance 495 
miles) usually occupies three days. A 
trip over the Union Pacific Road, from 
Leavenworth or Wyandotte westward to 
Junction City, or up the Missouri to the 
several towns on that river, which can 
be accomplished comfortably in from one 
to two weeks, will afford the visitor an 
opportunity to see all the most im- 
portant towns and objects of interest 
in the State, though months may be prof- 
itably and pleasantly spent in travelling 
through the interior. 

Names of places and distances on the 
Missouri River, between St. Louis and 
Leavenworth : To mouth of Missouri River, 
20 miles ; St. Charles, Mo., 45 ; Augusta, 
Mo., 76; South Point, Mo., 82; Wash- 
ington, Mo., 84; Miller's Landing, Mo., 
98 ; Hermann, Mo., 120 ; Portland, Mo., 
141; St. Aubert, Mo., 151; Jefferson 
City, Mo., 174 ; Providence, Mo., 207 ; 
Rocheport, Mo., 220 ; Boonville, Mo., 
232; Arrow Rock, Mo., 247; Glasgow, 
Mo., 264; Cambridge, Mo., 273; Bruns- 
wick, Mo., 299 ; Miami, Mo., 314 ; Berlin, 
Mo., 360 ; Lexington, Mo., 370 ; Welling- 
ton, Mo., 378 ; Camden, Mo., 888 ; Sibley, 
Mo., 406; Richfield, Mo., 420; Liberty, 
Mo., 435 ; Kansas City, Mo., 456 ; Park- 
ville. Mo., 471. 

Rivers. — The Kansas River, sometimes 
pronounced " Kaw," the largest stream of 
this region, excepting the Missouri, which 
washes its northeastern boundary, is form- 
ed by the Republican and the Smoky Hill 
Forks, which rise in the Rocky Mountains, 
and unite their waters at Fort Riley. The 
length of the Kansas, including its 
branches is nearly 1,000 miles. Its 
course is through a productive valley re- 
gion or plain, covered ^vith forest-trees, 
and varied here and there with piclnr- 
esque bluffs and hills. The Kansas River 
is a tributary of the Missouri, and steam- 
boats ascend, in good stages of water, 
from its mouth, 120 miles to Fort Riley. 
231 



K \N&AS CriY.] 



KANSAS. 



[FOKT RlUCT. 



Tbe Arkjnsas Kirer has neaHj half ita 
course wnhin tbe K>rder5 of Kansas. 

Tbe th.v^ Hirfr rises south of the 
Kansas, floors neariy easrwar-J 5'>? miles 
tc tke^ Missouri, wMeh it eiiters len miles 
l>e!oa- Je3ers?n CiiT. 

Kaa^^asi Citj"* — the cwmtj seat 
cf Jacks .-^n Countv, and one of the most 
imr-crrari T.Tsms on the riv^er — is well 
sJ:-i:ti on ihe ■west bank of the Mis- 
sruri. 4-56 miltS bv steamboat and 5S2 
n::£es bj the Potri^^Rf Ii<ifh>jy from Si- 
Louis. It has immedate daily eonnec- 
jicm bj rail "with LejiTen'srorth. Latrrenee, 
Topeka, and all river and interior to'sras 
in Kansai^ It contains one or fwo sub- 
stantial public buildings, S ehnreiies. 4 
banks, and several exrensire eommerc-ial 
ashl manuiactnrini: establishm ents. The 
hM^ aet-ommodation is poor, the houses, 
of whic-h there are fcnr, bans: smiD. and 
iE-kepi. P>pTilan--.n, S,C»00. ^ 

l^eaTeEiTvortb. Clxy. — ^Hoiel, 
Pfj t^t.-i" Ii:i:-<-:. LeaTenworth, the prin- 
cir=al e;-D:imr;"C-ij.l eitT of Rarsas. stands 
n>:n fhe •srest baiik of the ilissonri 
EiTer. abrnt midwaj between St. Joseji 
and Ksniis Ci:t. It has daHy eommnni- 
caiion bj railwaj with Chicago, St. Louis. 
and the principal cities of the Union; 
also resnlar sieanib.:«aT eommnnifation 
■with aH^owns en the Mlss^^-r: Errer. It 
ec'niains several Sne church e'lincres, a 
mercaniile Hbisrv, theatre, and medical 
o r'le ce. Three (^ilv netvspapers ane pnb- 
?b/iE Xfarats'j.'t^ OQe mile 
L - :iry, is worth visiting. Pop- 

-___;- :: izr cirris aboni ^vi^C^'O. 

LaTTTreiice, one of the most at- 
•m.d^r t:^^~s in Kansas, is pleasantly 
jlniTrd rn t";^ Sj^ii- Dank oi the Kansas 
J^-^:. i' ziiles fr:ni its month. The 
r" 7 -.- \^£. X>.) .Rji/K^j* gives daily 
,;:-_i_i.:: .^ijn eastward with Leaven- 
- miles, and "Wyandatie (§9 

r_ . — esTfraT'd with Topeka, Man- 

1_ _ ._.?:" Piley. It was founded 
f_ -■- _ _ _ - r'ten twice devastated 
": ^ ^ 7 I : ; :: . j.'ns a good hoteL seve^ 
su -s-aaoai ediaoes, aad" ^«mises to be 
r-- ■' tbe isadst^aest towns in the State. 

I . / -; _ ioox 

2S2 



Topeka, the capital of the State, is 

prerdly located on tbe st^th fide of U»o 
Kattsas River, and on the Union Poo^ 
{£. D.) Jiailic\iy, SO mUes west of Iaw- 
rence, and 6S miles west of Wy-r.ior.c. 
The streets are wide and well 
the city presents a substantial . 
ing appearance. The neighborn . ; x Uii 
many pleasant drives. The populaiioii 
already n^ombers between S,0>OO aad 
-1,<>C'''. and is istpidly increasing. 

^Kaitlaattaii. SO miles from Law- 
rence, and 119 from Wyandotte by nil, 
is situated at the confluenc-e of the Bfe: 
Blue with the Kansas Eiver. The fonv . : 
stream anords a fine water-power. T.r 
itaf; A:rric-:l:uraJ O^effe Is wonhy * 
vis: I. 

Fort Kiley, three miles east of 
Junction Qty, the present lenninus cf ftc 
ZTiiic'R PtK-f A: (Zl I).) UnLis.zy. is nuHlr 
interesting to the tourist as a DiiSarr 
post. The barracks, built in ISo?— '"-i. ai* 
of stone, and have ae::---; " ' "' - for 
fflghi companies. The -V ■' <«. 

in the vicinity should "_ . - The 

Bepoblican and Smoky Eili xorks aaiie 
their gtT osTn> lo form the Kansas ^e 
at this point. 

Jravellers bound still iartJier westwffl 
take stage at Jcncti(Hi Ctty, 3 afle 

Fort Scort, anoth«' miEtarT fH^ 
is on the Marineton Creek, in the s 

em part of the State, 12*3 miles 
of Leavenworth. Tbe post -^ras estib- 
lishe-d in IS-li and the town incotpo- 
raied in lS-35. Pc; -1 ''-' - -'' 

Atdiison, ^ 
west bank ^Big E._, _: ._. l-.^.-^ 
at the month of Independence Ciwk,' 
was long femous as an outfirnrr f^>f*^ 
and point of departure en the ;: 
land route to the Padnc. It :- 
e^d with Leaven-s-onh, St Josr 
ha, and other towns on ihe !^; - 
river and raiL It contains 
bank, a hotel, and several fine 
buiriing-s. The-?Vff Pr^s* and 
of Fr^sdom are poifi^ed hare. 
tion, 4,500. 

JDoftij^uaat is a si^Il grsdn-sl 
post, oa ihe river, a few mDes 
<rf Atdusoa. . 




- -tg^t ] 



XEBEASKA. 



|TCFBg«gr^ 



XEBEASKA. 



2^z£s.i5SA. tho<^ the most rpeesthr 

"lirted membo' <rf'die TTniem, is Beitber 

^ leaft important not interesdi^. Tliis 

Tr Bes betwie«i 10" and -13^ north bt- 

:. and unbraces an area <^ 76.000 

T^mfles. It is boonded on the goadh 

Zinsas, <Hi the cast by tie lEssooii 

r, OD the nordi bj Dacotah, and tm 

; west by the new Toiitory rf Wtu- 

iz}g. The name of this Territory has 

: T^ei beoi det^mined by CongresSi It 

- i rireT firontage <^ nearly SbO miles, 

rons west abo«rt 450 miles, 
r e history of this yoTmg State maybe 

- jriefly state! : Up to 1712 Xebras- 
: nued a part of the great grant of 
Mississippi Vafley to Ciojart. and was 
: of the territory indaded in Law's 

-jissippi scheme. As a ptHticm (rf' the 
ijiiuia pxirchsse it came into the pos- 

- ?n of the Fnited States in 1 SOS. The 
explorers of the territory of wiiom 

1 3Te any authentic account, "were 

? and Clarke, who, after wintering at 

j-.riiia (^ISC^l-'oX crossed the Eeiefcy 

: . iv.^ to Oregon. In 1 S54 the famous 

. -..~k:i Bill, repealing the ^JCssoari 

Inipromise, and limiting the extenaonof 

Lvery, was passed ; and on May SOth, erf 

»same year, the territory was organized. 

J was, after much discussion, admitted 

|a State, January, 1S67. The adjoining 

tory of Dacoiah was formed out of it 

11861. It is at present divided into 40 

ities, and contains a ix>pulation vari- 

Jy estimated at from 6o,000 to To.OvW 

dtnated in the geographical centra 

lUhe continent, equidistant between the 

itic and Paeifio Oceans, on the great 

liway of trade and travel between the 

l^r and West, North and South, and 

advance rapidly in populatitoi and 



prodnedoB. 'Sxa lEssama. Birer. wbidi 
wa^ies Ite entire eastern boeradazy. aSbids 
e^y outlet to the St. loufe and Sovawm 
laaiic^SjfortiieprcdoeiscarfliesQfl; wUle 
the Umiom^Pasf^Mnlminf,vom€Kmtfitlbed 
ZSO miles w«s^raid, places the Ujt%«! lla 
in ifirect commBnieaticnwTditbegrowii^ 
towns en tiie Flatie, and its (sanc^es ai 
£ir as die eastan boaiadaiy of CokradkiL 
The agriealtnial and nmiaal zesources of 
the S^ttearen0wbdi^»{iidh-deT«h)ped, 
and new towi^ aie Sjpmigji^ up *Jk]B^ 
the TP am aTSiues of trard with a lapad- 
ity which woold sean marveOoos any- 
where save in the Great West. Tfausfiir 
the lailway system oi the State is em- 
braced -by tbe r»*0K /WlK' iSnftrait, 
which inns doe west finom Omaha to X<B:di 
!]^tte Siafkn, wh«e connecticm is nade 
with Wi^Mmfo <£■ Cb'ji. OrfrJsnarahqpe 
line to Baiv^K' and all paints west. 

OsMaliai, tiie capital and chief com- 
merdal city of Nebraska, is j^eassnlly 
situated on the west bank of the llissoari 
Hirer. IS miles above the mouth of the 
Plane Biver. and immecBatdiy of^osite 
the town of Ccnmdl Bhiflfe, Iowa, with 
which it has cMistant communication by 
fisTv. A bridge is in contempiatiaD at 
this point. On»ha is one erf the mi>ft 
important and thriving towns «j the Mis- 
souri Kiver, ranking next to Lcarenwrnth 
and St. Joseph in point of popufation. 
The site is ^ileasantly undulating, ecwo- 
rD,^inding an extended view of the ri\-er. 
north and south. The name of the city 
is derived ftom a tribe of Indians who 
formeriy inhabited this region. In 1853 
the site of tte prv-sisit city was an unin- 
habited wild. In lSt>0 the populatkn 
was but l.SSS. In 1865 it had iiK^>ased 
to 4,500, and it is now estimated at 6,000, 
2S3 



Nebraska City.] 



NEBRASKA. 



[Plattesmoutu. 



The Capitol., a brick edifice, occupies a 
ooniiiianding site on tlie Republican blocli. 
Tlie Hcrndon House is tlie principal hotel. 
It affords but indifferent accommodation, 
a new hotel being much needed. Lime- 
stone of good quality is found in the vi- 
cinity of the city. Fort Calhomi and 
Florence are a short distance north of 
Omaha. Below are the stations on the 
Union Pacific Railroad : Omaha, to 
Papillion, 13 miles; Elkhorn, 29; Fre- 
mont, 47 ; North Bend, 61 ; Shell Creek 
76; Columbus, 91; Silver Creek, 109 
Lone Tree, 132; Grand Island, 154 
Wood River, 172; Kearney, 190; Elm 
Creek, 211; Plum Creek, 230; Willow 
Island, 250 ; Brady Island, 268 ; North 
Platte, 290. 

Nelsraslca City, the second town 
of the State, is situated on the west bank 
of the Missouri, 86 miles south of Omaha 
by river. It is prettily situated on rising 
ground, and commands some fine views. 
It has been an important outfitting point, 
and still retains considerable trade. It is 
the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of the 
234 



Diocese. It contains 7 churches and one 
or two substantial public buildings — pop- 
ulation, 4,500. Kearney City and Browns- 
ville are small places on the river south 
of Nebraska City. 

E^lattcsaiiioiitSA, the capital of 
Cass County, is on the Missouri, 1^ miles 
below the mouth of the Platte, and 38 
miles, by water, south of Omaha. It has 
a good landing, and a population of 1,200. 

The chief interior towns of Nebraska 
are Pawnee, Columbus, Fremont, llulo, 
Decatur, Fall City, and Fontenelle. 

Distances. — From St. Louis to Omaha 
and Fort Pierre on Missouri River ; To 
Leavenworth City, Kan., 495 miles ; Wes- 
ton, Mo., 505 ; latan. Mo., 518 ; Atchison, 
Kan., 532 ; St. Joseph, Mo., 565 ; Savan- 
nah, Mo., 583; Brownsville, Neb., 662; 
Nebraska Citv, Neb., 714; Omaha, Neb., 
800 ; Council Bluffs, Iowa, 802 ; Flor- 
ence, Neb., 815; De Soto, Neb., 843; 
Sioux City, Iowa, 1,050; Fort Vermilion,' 
D. T., 1,129; Fort Randall, D. T., 1,285,; 
Fort Lookout, D. T., 1,385 ; Fort Pierrej! 
D. T., 1,535. 



iii 



IFORNIA. I 



CALIFORNIA. 



[California. 



CALirOK]^IA. 



traveller can be said to have made 
I" grand tour " of the American Con- 
nt, who has not visited Gahfornia. 
State contains a greater number and 
ety of natural objects of interest and 
.ity — more to impress the tourist with 
thimagnitude and resources of the couu- 
trjand the future which hcs before it, 
th'L perhaps any other State in the 
Ujon. This is, we believe, now gener- 
al] conceded by intelligent judges. In- 
dtlsndent, however, of its numerous and 
vajed scenic attractions, California has a 
liijory all her owu, which must ever be 
rejete with interest for the traveller, the 
mie so as he witnesses the astonishing 
nrl-ress which it has made during the 
i ;ii years. The peninsula of Lower 
I nia was discovered by the expedi- 
,,:,i of Cortez in 1534-'35. Upper Cali- 
fojia was seen by Cabrillo in 1542. 
SiJFrancis Drake visited the coast and 
difpvered Jack's Harbor, on the bay of 
SiiJFrancis Drake, a few miles to the 
uc; hward of the bay of San Francisco, 
in5'79. Francisco Vila landed in 1582, 
ai;; Juan del Fuca in 1595. In 1596 a 
mjtary post was established at Santa 
Ct^. by Sebastian Vizcayno. In 1*769 
th|bay of San Francisco was discovered 
bylhe early Spanish missionaries, who 
- blished some 18 missions in the 
(i itry ; these continued to flourish imtil 
J'" tlie Mexican Revolution in 1822, 
.1 1 they fell into decay under the new 
■OTument. 

iiptain John Sutter estabhshed himself 

ne!' the present site of Sacramento City 

"n ?30. In 1846 the war broke out be- 

w)) the United States and Mexico, 

111 resulted iu the conquest and pur- 

■bc of California by the United States. 



The treaty ceding California and New 
Mexico to the United States was dated at 
the city of Guadalupe Hidalgo, February 
2, 1848; ratified by the United States 
March 11, 1848, exchanged at Queretaro, 
May 30, 1848, and proclaimed by the 
President, July 4, 1848. It was organ- 
ized as a State, December 15, 1849, and 
admitted into the Union, September 19, 
1850. 

Gold was discovered in January, 1848, 
by James W. Marshall, in the employ of 
Captain Sutter, at Sutter's Mill, on the 
South Fork of the American River, near 
the present city of Sacramento. From 
this date the unprecedented progress of 
the country commenced. 

The State of California extends along 
the Pacific coast nearly '750 miles from 
southeast to northwest, with an average 
breadth from east to west of 250 miles, 
containing an area of 18'7,500 squai'e miles, 
or nearly twice the size of Great Britain. 
The whole country naturally falls into 
three great divisions, viz. : First, the 
great valleys of the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin rivers, with all their lateral val- 
leys ; all of whose waters meet in the 
bay of San Francisco, passing through 
the Golden Gate to the Pacific Ocean. 
Second, the portions of the Coast Range 
north and south of the bay of San Fran- 
cisco, wliere the country is drained by 
streams falling directly into the Pacific, 
as the Klamath, Eel River, Russian River, 
the Salinas, San Pedro, and San Bernar- 
dino, with others of lesser magnitude. 
Third, the country east of the Sierra Ne- 
vada chain, the waters of which fall into 
the Great Basin, having no outlet to the 
ocean. 

The ranges of mountains comprise the 
235 



California.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[ROL'TES. 



Sien-a Nevada, which divides the State on 
the east from the Great Basin, and the 
Coast Range on the west. Between the 
Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, lies 
the extensive country of the First Divi- 
sion, a valley of some 500 miles in length, 
with an average breadth of 80 miles, 
with a rich soil and warm climate, pro- 
ducing all the fruits of the warm region, 
with the products of the more temperate 
climes. The lateral valleys, with an ele- 
vation of from 1,000 to 5,000 feet above 
the level of the sea, produce the more 
hardy fruits and grains common to the 
more northern States of the Union. 

A belt of gigantic timber, consisting of 
pines, firs, cedars, oaks, etc., etc., extends 
the entire length of the Sierra Nevada 
range, affording a supply of wood that 
can never be exhausted. 

The mining region also stretches along 
this range, extending on the north into 
the Coast Mountains, passing into Oregon 
with an average breadth of 40 or 50 
miles, at some points extending from the 
valley to near the summit of the Sierras, 
a distance of 100 miles in breadth. 

The Second Division, located near the 
coast, contains thousands of beautiful 
valleys, some of which are very extensive, 
as that of the Salinas, whose outlet is at 
the bay of Monterey and the country ad- 
joiuiBg Los Angeles and San Diego. 
This portion has a cooler climate than 
the lower valleys of the First Division, 
owing to their proximity to the sea. It 
yields every variety of product, from the 
orange and other fruits of the warm 
region at Los Angeles, to the more tem- 
perate clime and products of Humboldt 
Bay and Trinity River at the north. Gold 
is also found, and the richest quicksilver 
mines in the world. Oaks and gigantic 
redwoods afford fine lumber. 

Of the Third Division, the country east 
of the Sierra Nevada, but little is known, 
especially to the southeast, yet many 
fine valleys occur, as that of Carson's Val- 
ley, which now contains a considerable 
population. Gold also is found along the 
eastern slope of the Sierra. 

These, then, are the general features of 
the country. Much more might be said 
concerning the variety of climate incident 
to the location, the different natural pro- 
ductions, the mines of gold, quicksilver, 
236 



coal, and iron, which are being dally dis- 
covered, with the many advantages of 
soil and climate adapted to grazing and 
agricultural purposes. 

It is divided into 45 counties. Sacn 
mento is the capital, and San FrancisoO' 
the chief commercial city. 

Routes. — There are two routes b;_ 
which to reach California from New York 
or the Eastern States. These are the 
Steamship routes, via Panama and Nicara- 
gua, and the Consolidated Overland Rail- 
way and Stage route, via Omaha, Denvei 
Salt Lake City, and Sacramento. Twi 
lines of steamers are now running bi 
tween New York and San Francisco, viz.: 
the " Pacific Mail" and the "Opposition" 
or "Nicaragua Transit" line. Thi 
steamers comprising the former line leavi 
on the 1st, 11th, and 21st of each mom 
from Pier No. 42, foot of Canal Streel^ 
for Aspinwall direct, where they connecti 
with the Panama Raihva'^ and the conht 
pany's steamers to San Francisco. TU«^ 
boats of the latter leave every 20 dayg^ 
from Pier No. 29, foot of Warren Street^ 

The cost of passage by the latter lin% 
is less than by the mail line, but the aOr;^ 
commodations and fare are not so good»; 
(See Advertisements.) ,• 

The routes overland have become by- 
dint of travel numerous and reasonably 
easy and safe. Continuous lines of raiW 
way from the principal Eastern cities wiip 
carry the tourist or traveller to Omahai*'- 
Nebraska, whence the Union Pacific Rait- 
way arid the Overland Stages of Wells, 
Fargo & Co., conduct him to Sacramento^ 
California, or any intermediate pohit oi 
the great overland line. (See Union Paci 
Eic Railway and Overland Stage Line, 

We will suppose the traveller to ha' 
selected, as he most probably will, thfl 
first and most popular of these rou 
and will accompany him on his voyage^ 

Leaving New York, we pass down t^^^H 
beautiful bay and are soon upon the broa^H 
Atlantic. After crossing the Gulf Stream, 
in about the latitude of Cape Hatteras, 
we occasionally catch a glimpse of the 
low coral islands of the Bahamas. Wat- 
ling's Island, one of this group, which 
forms the entrance to what is known as 
the Crooked Island passage, is usually 
reached on the fourth day from New 
York. Five days' good steaming bring 




"Z^T" 



I>^OTtude East * 12^^ Jrt> tn Grgenwri dh i 



A M : E ^. 




' JHl! 



jPINWALL.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[ASPINWALL. 



to Cape Maysi, the eastern extremity 

Cuba, whose highlands, with those of 

! more distant mountains of San Do- 

;igo, look beautiful in the warm tropi- 

haze, as we pass between them. Eighty 

es S. S. W., of Cape Maysi, is the 

md of Nevassa, famous for its large 

c|)Osits of guano. Leaving this island, 

: blue mountains of Jamaica, in the 

ghborhood of Porto Bello, loom up, 

)ut 50 miles to our right. This is the 

lit land seen until we arrive at Aspinwall, 

t- Atlantic terminus of the Isthmus 

lilroad, which is usually reached in 

fiorable weather after a voyage of six 

t' seven days from New York. Distance, 

liSO miles. 

ispinwall. — Hotels, City, Howard-. 

.spinwall, known in Europe as Colon, 

iiituated upon the island of Manzanilla, 

aithe northeast entrance to Navy Bay, 

al owes its existence and present im- 

p:tance to the Panama Jiailway, in 

inection with the Pacific Mail Steam- 

Company. The population consists 

;:he employes of the railway and steam- 

p lines, together with a motley class 

Jamaica negroes. Navy Bay is about 

tl;ee miles in length by two in width, 

all abounds in fish. Beyond the novel 

pises of life which Aspinwall presents, 

tlire is little of interest in the place, and 

tlj traveller is usually glad to take his 

Si It in the cars for Panama. 

In the early days of California immi- 
gtion, Aspinwall, and indeed the whole 
ii-imus in this latitude, was considered 
vy unhealthy, and fearful are the tales 
t(l of the sufferings and pi-ivations of 
tl se who were exposed to v/hat were then 
n inaptly called the "horrors of the 
n Idle passage; " but with the comple- 
tii of the railway, fevers and malarial 
di'ases have pretty much disappeared, 
a ^ the transit is now comfortably made 
inbout three hours. 

jeaviug Aspinwall, less than half a 
n e brings the traveller to that part of 
tlisland shore where the railway leaves 
it and crosses over the frith to the 
s^mps of the main-land beyond. The 
sires hereabouts are skirted with a 
d' se grove of mangrove-bushesy which 
d op deep into the water, while directly 
ir front the traveller looks through a 
via, opened by the railway, into an 



apparently interminable forest. These 
waters abound in beautiful varieties of 
fish, known among the natives as the 
fiores-del-mar, or the " flowers of the sea." 
in shape and size these fish resemble the 
sun-fish of our Northern lakes, and are 
remarkable for their varied and brilliant 
colors. Passing Mount Hope, with its 
cemetei'y, we shortly cross the Mindee 
River, famous for its enormous alligators, 
which empties into Navy Bay, about a 
mile and a half from Aspinwall. 

For several miles the road passes 
through a deep marsh, reaching Gatun 
Station, on the eastern bank of the 
Chagres River, seven miles from Aspin- 
wall, in about half an hour. On the op- 
posite shore of the river, stands the 
ancient native town of Gatun, situated 
on the edge of a broad . savannah, and 
composed of some forty or fifty huts of 
cane and palm. This was a famous stop- 
ping-place in the early days of California 
immigration over the isthmus. 

Leaving the river a mile or two to the 
right, we next traverse a dense tropical 
forest, with occasional clearings, and pass- 
ing a few native huts, arrive at Barbf^cbas, 
crossing the Chagres River upon a hand- 
some wrought-iron bridge, six hundred 
and twenty-five feet long, and forty feet 
above high water in the Rio Chagres. 
Beyond Barbacoas we enter a beautiful 
stretch of meadow-lands, bounded by 
high precipitous hills, while the river, 
broad and swift, pursues its serpentine 
course through its deep channel on the 
left, displaying along its banks, groups of 
a gigantic species of branchless ceiba, 
that breaks the outline of dense palm 
and cocoa groves. -The cultivation of 
the lands at this point, is said to date 
back for more than two centuries, and to 
have been originally prosecuted by the 
Jesuits. The stations of San Pablo, 
Mamei, and the native settlement of Gor- 
gona, are next quickly passed, and then 
we reach the beautiful meadow-lands of 
Matachin. Here, rising in all their state- 
liness, the classic sheaves of the royal 
palm shed an air of oriental beauty over 
the landscape. Beyond, the cerro giff ante 
(summit), the highest point of the isthmus, 
is seen on our right. From this summit 
Balboa is said to have discovered the 
waters of the Pacific Ocean. 
237 



ASPINWALL.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Panam 



Moving Tvestward, we get occasional 
views of the river, gleaming amid the rich 
verdure of gigantic trees and overhanging 
vines, until we reach the little hamlei^ of 
Matachin, and thence on to the summit. 
From this point we descend i\apidly along 
the base of Monument Hill, through the 
valley of the Rio Obispo, past Empire 
Station, to the little native settlement of 
Culehra ("the Snake"), which was the 
terminus of the road in 1854. At this 
point commences the Pacific slope of the 
road, with a descending grade of 60 feet 
to the mile. A mile west from the sum- 
mit, the road passes along the side of a 
huge basaltic cliff, whose gigantic crystals, 
nearly a foot in diameter, and from eight 
to twelve feet in length, appear to the be- 
holder at an angle of forty degrees. This 
whole region givcB unmistakable evidence 
that severe and comparatively recent vol- 
canic forces have been instrumental in its 
formation. Endless growths of palm now 
interpose, and break the view for nearly 
three miles, beyond which the beautiful 
undulating valley of Paraiso (Paradise), 
the bold head of Mount Ancon, and the 
Cerro de los Buccaneros (or " Hill of the 
Buccaneers " ), with the distant ocean, 
come in view. Still farther in the dis- 
tance rise the towers and spires of the 
city of Panama. 

Previous to the completion of the rail- 
road, the steamers touched at Chagres, 
from which place the travel up the Chagres 
River was performed in native boats to 
Gorgona or Cruces, thence by animals to 
Panama ; this generally occupied three or 
four days, and was attended with much 
exposure and discomfort, which very often 
resulted in an attack of Isthmus fever, so 
fatal in its consequences. In 1850 the 
survey of the railroad was commenced, 
under the superintendence of the well- 
known traveller, the late John L. Ste- 
phens. In July, 1852, 23J miles of the 
road were completed, from Aspinwall to 
Jlarbacoas, on the Chagres River, and 
f/pened for travel. From that date Cha- 
gres sunk into utter neglect, as all the 
travel was diverted to Aspinwall, passing 
up the river from Barbacoas. December, 
1854, saw the road completed to Culebra, 
on the summit. Panama was reached 
from the latter place by animals. It was 
not until January 27, 1855, five years after 
238 



its commencement, that the first loeom 
five passed over the entire road fro 
ocean to ocean, a distance of 49 milt 
The isthmus afforded little or no materi 
for its construction ; not even food for tl 
laborers. Every thing had to be import( 
from the United States or from Europ 
A primeval forest was cut through, den 
jungles were opened, deadly swamps we 
crossed, deep cuts were made, rivci 
spanned by bridges, whose timber w: 
brought from afar; and, more than a^ 
the pestilential climate swept thousam 
upon thousands into their graves ere tl 
oceans were united. As a small steam 
is lying at the terminus of the railroad • 
convey the California passengers on boa 
the Pacific steamer, which is waiting f 
us at the Island of Perico, some two mi)' 
distant, we shall not have an opportuni 
of visiting the city of Panama. Yet \ 
obtain a general view as we pass upon o 
transit to the steamer, its old towers ai 
ramparts gleaming in the sun, overgrov 
with rank vegetation, presenting a tin 
worn and venerable appearance, finely i 
lieved by the background of hills, cloth : 
in the richest green. 

f^aiasEaaiaa. — Hotel, Aspinwi 
House. — The city of Panama stands upi 
a rocky peninsula that stretches outfrci 
the base of Mount Ancon, about a qui 
ter of a mile into the sea. Its roadste 
is one of the finest in the world. T 
city itself contains many objects of i 
terest ; but owing to the present arratif 
ment, travellers en route for Califorr 
have but a limited opportunity for vis 
ing them, unless they should lie over o 
steamer ; a delay which, in view of tl 
greater attractions of San Francis 
and the Golden Gate, few are willing 
undergo. Three hours well spent n 
suffice to show the stranger the " lion 
of the city, and these he will have , 
his command before the sailing of ti 
steamer. 

Panama contains, at present, a pop; 
lation of about 12,000. Previously 1. 
l'i'44, it was the principal entrepot i 
the Pacific coast trade, and continiH' 
so imtil its decline, together with that 
the otlier Spanish possessions in Ameri' ; 
Within the last few years its trade 1 
greatly improved, and rents are now hi 
and buildings in great demand. 1 



PJiFIC TOTAGE.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[ACAPULCO. 



isads of Pmco, Flamenco, -and Islnao, 
irithe harbor, abound in fine natural 
$1 ngs, and are well worth visiting. If 
0]jOrtuTiity present, the stranger should 
vit th e site and ruins of " the city of 



ama the ancient," destroyed by Sir 
ry Morgan in 1661, which are located 
altut six miles southeast of the present 
A visit to the cathedral in new 
ama will well repay the tourist. Visit- 
at the isthmus will do well to report 
•aselves to Captain George Butler, 
ioned at Panama', as acting resident 
iS. Consul. His attentions to stran- 



g(8 desirous of seeing Panama, make 

hii a most desirable acquaintance. 

HE Pacific Voyage. — Safely on board 

steamer, we are soon under way for 

Francisco, steering south, past the 

itiful islands of Tobocja and Toboquil- 

vhicli are twelve miles from the city. 

the former is quite an important 

ton, also the works of the English Pacific 

Sf .m Navigation Company, whose ships 

to Valparaiso and Callao and other 

s of the west coast of South Ameri- 

Soon after we pass the lovely 

ids of Otoque and Bana, while away 

he southeast, glimpses of the Pearl 

Eld groups are obtained. Ninety miles 

. W. from the anchorage. Point Mala 

assed, and the next morning finds 

steaming past the island of Quibo, 

nee we obtain a distant and last view 

oihe mountains of the Isthmus. 

|he traveller will find the arrangements 

oiboard the splendid steamers compos- 

Ihe mail line all that can be desired 

fofcomfort and convenience, and with a 

plisant company, which there usually 

insed always is, on the Pacific side, his 

Ydge will pass rapidly and pleasantly 

eingh. On the sixth day from Panama, 

F nt Sacrijicios, the northwest point of 

tl Bay of Tehuan tepee is usually sighted. 

e, in fine weather, the traveller has a 

T of the mountains of Mexico. Two 

h^dred and ten miles fai-ther we enter 

harbor o( Acaptilco. Here the steam- 

3 usually detained from three to four 

rs, for the purpose of coaling, when 

opportunity is afforded for going 

ore, of which passengers, so disposed, 

ivail themselves, 
he harbor of Acapulco is one of the 
t perfect in the world, protected on 



all sides by mountains, which rise almost 
from the water's edge. We gaze with 
delight upon the fine groves of cocoas and 
palms, and look with interest upon the 
faded glories of this once important 
place. The motley population of Mexi- 
cans observed in the streets, which are 
alive with venders of all sorts of fruits 
and curiosities, is a study of itself, seen 
nowhere save in a Spanish city. At 
the period of my visit (December, 1866), 
additional interest was given to the place 
by the presence of two French and one 
United States men-of-war which lay im- 
mediately off the town. 

The place is similar in appearance to 
all other Spanish-American towns or 
cities. The houses are low, generally of 
one story, with thick walls and high- 
peaked roofs covered with tiles to pro- 
tect the inmates fi'om the intense heat. 
The plaza or public square, the church, 
consulate building, and one or two of the 
public buildings, will repay a visit. The 
fort {Castle d' Acapulco), an old-fashioned 
fortification which guards the entrance 
to the harbor a little east of the town, 
and commands a fine view, should be 
visited. In a grove to the left of the 
town are the graves of six American 
consuls, who have died at this place. 

Resuming our voyage, we soon lose 
sight of the high mountain range of Mex- 
ico, the last land seen, until, on the fourth 
day, we approach the southern extremity 
of Lower California, Cape St. Lucas. 
From tills point the weather suddenly 
becomes cold; and as we approach our 
destination thick clothing comes into re- 
quisition. As we coast northward we 
sometimes see land, perhaps one of the 
barren islands off the coast of Lower 
California ; but, as the atmosphere along 
the coast is generally very hazy, especially 
during the summer time, we find but little 
of interest until we approach the Golden 
Gate, the entrance to the noble bay of 
San Francisco. 

Upon the 12tli daj' from Panama, usu- 
ally 21st or 22d day from New York, we 
see the mountains of the Coast Rani,e, 
among which Tamal-Pais stands preemi- 
nent, with Monte Diablo in the distance, 
looming up from the waters ; and soon 
after we near Point Lobos, with Point 
Bonita on our left, as we euter the Golden 
239 



San Francisco.] 



CALIFOENIA. 



[San Francisi 



Gate ; Fort Point is soon abreast, and we 
enter the bay of San Francisco. Two 
miles ftirther on we pass the Presidio, and 
catch a distant view of the western and 
northern portion of the metropolis of the 
Pacific. To our loft, Alcatraz or Pelican 
Island rises from the surface of tlie bay, 
bristling with cannon, and surmounted by 
a lighthouse ; while beyond, Angel Island 
rises to the height of 900 feet. Doubling 
Telegraph Hill, the city bursts upon our 
vision, rising picturesquely from the bay, 
which extends southward, lilie a vast in- 
land sea. We are soon alongside of the 
wharf, and thus ends our pleasant voyage 
of three tveeks from New York. 

The following official table of distances 
to different points on the coast between 
San Francisco and Panama is inserted for 
the guidance of travellers : 

Miles. Miles. 

From San Francisco to Monterey. 78 

ToSanMig-uol 181 259 

'• Cerros Island 442 701 

" Point St. Lazzero 261 962 

" Cape San Lucas 180 1,142 

" Cape Corrientes 274 1,416 

" Manzanillo (Colima) 102 1,518 

" Acapulco 290 1,808 

" Point Sacrificios 210 2,018 

" Cape Blanco 548 2.766 

" Bunca Point 168 2,934 

" Hicarita Island 88 3.022 

•' Cape Malo 118 8,140 

"Panama 90 8,230 

Adding to tills 8,280 

Across the Isthmus 49 

Aspinwall to New Tork , 1,980 

Total distance from San Francisco to 

Now York 5,259 

SAIT FRANCISCO. 

Hotels. — The ZicJc Rouse, Occidental 
Hotel, and Russ House, on Montgome- 
ry Street ; the Cosmopolitan, on Bush 
Street ; and the Continental, on Com- 
mercial, corner of Sansom Street, are 
all good houses, centrally located on 
the leading thoroughfares of the city. 
The Lick House has recently been en- 
larged and refurnished, and is now one 
of the best houses on the Pacific coast. 
The dining-room is unsurpassed for its 
design, and the elegance of its appoint- 
ments. The OcCTf/mte/ is one of the finest 
buildings in the city, and luider the able 
management of the Messrs. Leland will 
always sustain its reputation for comfort 
and good fare. Charges at the above 
210 



bouses range from fS to $3.50 (gold) \ 
day. Furnished apartments are eve 
where abundant. The restaurants .■ 
also numerous. That attached to I 
Union Club, over Wells, Fargo &C(i 
bank, is the most desirable for strangii 
(members' introduction, and card). J 

San Francisco, the principal city aud QQ 
port of California, and the metropolis (ii% 
Pacific coast, is situated upon the bajr^ 
San Francisco, four miles from its entrao 
to the sea, and Hes in latitude 37" ^ 
north, and longitude 122° 30' west, fnj 
Greenwich. The Mission (Dolores) % 
founded and the Presidio established f 
1'7'76. The first tent was erected 
Captain W. A. Richardson in 1835, 8, 
in the following year (1836) the first hou 
was built by Jacob P. Lease, on the « 
nerof Clay and Dupont Streets. U[ 
January, 184*7, the city bore the uami 
Yerba Buena. At the time gold v 
discovered, in January, 1848, it contain 
but 200 buildings of all kinds, and a p 
ulation of 800. In the year 1860 ■ 
city covered an area of 8 or 9 squ 
miles, with a population of some 65,0 
The population now numbers 115,000. ' 

Among the principal buildings are ■ 
City Hall, fronting upon the Plaza 
Portsmouth Square ; the United Sic 
Custom-Hov.se and Fost- Office, corner 
Washington and Battery Streets; 
United States Marine Hospital, Einr 
Point ; the Occidental, Lick, and Oo&t 
polilan Hotels, the new Merchants' . 
change and Bank of Ccdifornia, on C 
fornia Street, near Montgomery, i 
many fine structures of lesser note, as 
Custom-House Block, corner of Sans, 
and Sacramento Streets ; Mercantile 
hrary Building, corner of Bush i 
Montgomery Streets ; United States 1 
trict Court Biulding, corner of Waslii 
ton and Battery Streets ; Masonic li 
junction of Post, Market, and Montgoni 
Streets ; Odd- Fellows^ Hall, corner 
Bush and Kearney Streets. The M 
which occupies an insignificant and rati 
gloomy-looliing building on Commer 
Street, is well worth visiting. Appl 
tions should be made to Mr. Frank 
Harte, the secretary. The site for a i 
mint has just been purchased by the G 
ernment. The Lincoln School, on Fi 
near Market Street, is a handsome bi 















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SAN FRANCISCO 

1866 



G 

ei 
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a 
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P 

bi 



ol 



Francisco.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[San Francisco. 



)lding in the Eenaissance style, and 
)lers that would compare favorably with 
iij buildings to be found in the large 
i] tern cities, 
lontgomery Street, the leading thor- 
lifare, is a handsome street, and is 
ally thronged with pedestrians. On 
fornia Street the principal banks, and 
kers' and insurance offices are located. 
he principal churches are : First Pres- 
yian Churchy Stockton Street, be- 
bn Clay and Washington ; Calvary 
sbytcrian Ckui-ch, Bush Street, be- 
3n Montgomery and Sansom ; Mrst 
B'fist Church, Washington Street, be- 
iwen Dupont and Stockton •, M7'si Con- 
nlaiional CImrch, corner of Dupont 
irl California Streets ; Grace Cathedral 
Om~ch, corner of Stockton and California 
stjets; Church of the Advent, Mission 
it'et, below Second ; First Unitarian 
Om-ch, Geary, near Stockton: M. E. 
Oirch, Powell Street, between Washing- 
roiand Jackson ; St. Maryh Cathedral, 
!o er of Dupont and California Streets ; 
SiFrancis Church, Vallejo Street, be- 
,\v n Dupont and Stockton, St. Ignatius 
0}\-cha7id College, on Market Street, and 
jiilV other fine ones of less prominence. 
rh|e best worthy a visit are Grace and St. 
Mkj^s Cathedrals, and Trinity (building), 
\mSt. Francis Churches. The corner- 
itcj) of Grace was laid May, 1860. Its 
iiilnsions are 135 feet by 62 feet, and 66 
■eelhigh. St. Mary^s is the largest and 
no costly church edifice in the city. It 
.va'pommenced July lY, 1853, and dedi- 
i December 25, 1854. It is in the 
ic style of architecture, and has seats 
pward of 1,200 persons. It has cost 
far $1 '75,000. The Hebrew syna- 
'e of Emanu El, on Sutter Street, be- 
:\v(ii Stockton and Powell, should be vis- 
It occui)ies a commandmg site, and 
itself an imposing structure. The 
prium is elegantly finished, and has 
nmodation for 1,200 persons. Many 
; school buildings are also commo- 
and substantial structures. 

principal j^laces of amusement 

pfagmi-e\i Ojiera-Ilouse, Washington 

near Montgomery ; Academy of 

Pine, between Montgomery and 

1 Streets ; MetropoUlan Tlicatre, 

. . ..; .jiitgomery Street ; FlatCs JVewMusic 

Wail Montgomery Street, near the corner 

11 



Te 



of Bush, and many others of less note. 
The Mercantile Library Association, cor- 
ner of Montgomery and Bush Streets, has 
a collection of upward of 25,000 volumes. 
Reading and chess rooms attached. A 
commodious structure, intended for the 
purpose of the library, is now in course 
of construction, on Bush Street, opposite 
the Cosmopolitan Hotel. 

A visit to the Mission, three miles 
southwest of the city, will interest the 
stranger. The Market Street railroad 
cars start for that point each half hour in 
the day. Lines of omnibuses are running 
over the plank road to the same place by 
a more circuitous route, passing through 
" The Willows," a pleasant suburban re- 
treat, on their way. Many fine gardens 
are in the vicinity. The race-course is a 
mile beyond. The Protestant Orphan 
Asylum is a fine building half a mile north. 
The Mission itself is an object of much 
interest. It is an adobe building of the old 
Spanish style, built in 1'7'76. Adjoining 
is the cemetery, with its ■well-worn paths 
and fantastic monuments. Among the 
cemeteries, that of Eo7ie Mountain is best 
worthy a visit. 

Eo7ie Mountain Cemetery. — This pretty 
ground is 2^ miles west of the principal 
hotels, and is reached by street cars. It 
was dedicated May 30, 1854. The first 
interment was made June 2, 1854. It 
then consisted of 160 aci'es, which was 
enlarged to its present size in 1862. Up- 
ward of 12,000 interments have already 
been made. Large numbers of the 
Chinese have been placed in vaults in 
this cemetery, previous to their removal 
to China. Among the monuments, that 
erected to Senator Broderick, just com- 
pleted from a design by William Craine, 
at an expense of $15,000 is the most note- 
worthy. Ralston's, modelled after the 
Parthenon at Rome, and Luning's, are 
also fine structures. 

The great feature of Zone Moutiiainis 
its unrivalled outlook, embracing fine 
bird's-eye views of the ocean, bay, and 
city. Mount Diablo, and the Coast Range. 
The quarries in the immediate neighbor- 
hood supply abundance of building mate- 
rial. 

A line of omnibuses also runs to the 
Presidio, which is situated some three 
miles toward the Golden Gate; a mile 
241 



San Francisco.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[San Francisi 



farther is Fort Foini, so called from the 
fortification which protects the entrance 
to the liarbor. Following the shore we 
pass Foint Lobos and Seal Rock House^ 3 
miles, and the same distance farther reach 
the Cliff House, situated on a little arm 
of the sea. From this point, returning to 
the city, 8 miles distant, the road winds 
through and over the San Bruno Hills, 
from whose peaks — 1,200 feet above the 
level of the sea — a fine view of the bay on 
one side, and of the ocean on the other, is 
to be had. The view from Telegraph Hill, 
290 feet high, at the northern extremity 
of the city, is unsurpassed. This view 
embraces the city, stretching along the 
semi-amphitheatre of hills, and overflow- 
ing the depressions toward the Presidio 
on the west and the Mission on the south. 
both arms and the entrance to the bay, 
including the island of Alcatraz, which is 
fortified. Angel Island, over 700 feet in 
height, and Yerha Buena (Goat Island), 
the mountains of Mai-in County on the 
north, with the peak of Tamal Fais, 
2,600 feet high ; and the Contra Costa 
Range on the east, with Monte Diablo 
rising in the background to a height of 
3,700 feet. The summits of Russian and 
Rincon Hills, and the Shot Tov/er, 200 
feet high, on the corner of Shelby and 
First Streets, also afford fine views. 

A ferry-boat (corner Pacific and Davis 
Streets) connects the city with Oakland 
every hour. Oakland lies across the bay, 
8 miles distant, and contains 5,000 in- 
habitants and many fine residences. The 
College of California and the Facific 
Female College, both flourishing institu- 
tions, are located here. 

From Oakland stages leave daily for 
Somersville (35 miles), via Walnut Creek 
and Clayton. The Alameda ferry, from 
Pacific Street wharf, runs four times 
daily to Alameda, whence there is con- 
nection via San Leandro with Hayward's 
and Warm Springs. Delightful trips are 
made in the summer to the several points 
and objects of interest on this road. 
The old Spanish Mission of San Jose in 
Alameda County is worth visiting. 

From San Francisco railway and steam- 
ship lines diverge to all parts of the in- 
terior, and the coast north and south. 
Steamers leave daily for various points on 
the bay — ^Petaluma, Sonoma, Napa, Sui- 
242 



sun, etc., noi-th ; and for Alviso, connc 
ing with San Jose by stage, south — 
connecting with stages for the inter! 
Street cars afford easy access to all pa 
of the city and suburbs. 

The Chinese quarter of the city, es| 
cially the Chinese temples. Josh and 'j 
Kahn, the former in Dupont Alloy a 
the latter on Pine Street, near Dupo 
should not be omitted by the stranger. T 
socialhfe of the Chinese is most intere 
ing, and it can be studied in San Franc 
CO to great advantage, as there are neai 
10,000 of them there congregated. Th' 
principal resorts are in Sacramento, Sta 
ton, Dupont, Commercial, and Washii 
ton Streets, but indeed no street in f^ 
Francisco is without them. The Brit 
Consulate is at 428 California Street; 
L. Booker, Consul. 

Distances from- San Francisco 
Various Points. — To Fort Foint, f( 
miles, by omnibus ; four trips a day. 
Lone Mountain, three miles, by street r, i 
way. To Seal Focks, sLs miles, by cars a- 
omnibus; tv/o trips a day. To Jfisal 
Dolores, by street railways ; Ocean Hou 
eight miles. To San Mateo, 20 miles, 
railroad. To Crystal Springs, 23 mil 
by railroad and stage. To Spanishtov 
32 miles, and to Half Moon Bay (P( 
cadero), 48 miles, via San Mateo. 
Redwood City, 30 miles, by railroad a 
stage. To Mountain View, 38 -miles, 
railroad. To Santa Clara, 47 miles, 
railroad. To San Jose, 50 miles, by r 
road, or by steamer and stage, 54 mil 
To Alviso, 46 mOes, by steamer, dait 
To New Almaden Quicksilver Mines, 
miles, by steamer and stage, or by n ■ 
way and stage, 64. To Santa Crus^ ' 
miles, by railway and stage. To Oi 
land, 8 miles, by ferry and railway; j [ 
trips a day. To Alameda, 11 mUeB, ' 
steamer ; three trips a day. To % i 
ward's, 25 miles, by steamer; three'tn ' 
a day. To San Leandro, 15 mile^ ;' 
steamer and railway. To Mission- &' 
Jose, 34 miles, by steamer, raHviajjii^ 
stage. To Warm SjDrings, 37 miles, ej 
Alameda ferry. To Benicia, 30 tailni 
steamer leaves at 4 p. m. dady. To'" 
cramento, 117 miles ; steamer leaves ( 
4 p. M. daily. To Stockton, 117 mill : 
steamer leaves at 4 p. m. daily. To Jl | 
tinez, 33 miles, by steamer. To Pacbe 



JJJTE I.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Route I. 



miles, by steamer and stage. To 
Imt Diablo Coal Mines, 44 miles, by 
tlner and stage. To Suisun, 50 miles 
'Steamer, or 54 by steamer and stage. 
IVall " ------ 



i^allejo, 28 miles. To Mare Island, 
'ijuiles. To Napa City, 50 miles. To 
\|ite Sulphur Springs, 6*7 miles, by 
t|e from Napa. To G yser Springs, 
1 miles, by stage from Napa. To So- 
i(\ a, 52 miles, by steamer, tri-weekly. 
'c^etaluma, 48 miles, by steamer, daily. 
?('ilealdsburg, 80 miles, by stage daily 
r«i Petaluma. To San Quentin, 12 
Qis, by steamer. To Farallone Islands, 
lOjiiles. 



FES TO THE INTERIOR OF 
CALIPORNIA. 

7t6 Yo-Semite Valley, the Geysers, and 
the Big Trees. 

ROUTE I. 

1M 8 Air FBANCmOO TO 8ACBA- 
MEMTO, MARY8VILLE, ETC. 
om San Francisco, via Sacramento, to 
a-^sville, up through the valley of the 
!a imento to the Oregon line; thence 
hi igh the mining regions of the east- 
Ti tributaries of the Sacramento and 
saii^oaquin Rivers, including, if time per- 
ni] a run over the Sierras, down the 
Priikee, into Carson Valley ; returning 
ro the southern mines, via Stockton, to 
lailFrancisco ; thence proceeding, via 
iaiTose, through the Santa Clara valley 
o jsalia and Los Angeles, through the 
ioi^ern part of the State, returning by 
hc-iocean from San Diego, the most 
loraern port, touching at Santa Bar- 
)aij Monterey, etc., and finally taking a 
;liil)se at the more northern sections 
ilol the coast, and a voyage to Oregon. 
3yps arrangement, making an almost 
•oilnuous tour of the State, all the prin- 
it); nlijects of interest, including the 
Yo-Semite, the Geysers, and Big 
can be seen without loss of time, 
):■ incuessary travel or expense. Those 
vhAare so fortunate as to have both 
imjand means at their disposal, can of 
;ou|e see much more tlian even this ex- 
' Ti'd trip will afford them; but as my 
is to give essential information to 



the largest number of readers, in the 
briefest possible compass, I shall, I think, 
accomplish it most satisfactorily by con- 
fining my chapter on California to the 
limits above described. (The distances 
are computed by the usually travelled 
routes, and, when not officially given, 
will be found approximately correct.) 

I?'©!* tlie Sacramemt© IS®- 
g'ioia. — Leaving Broadway Wharf, San 
Francisco, by 4 o'clock afternoon steam- 
er for Sacramento, we proceed northward 
toward Angel Island (batteries and govern- 
ment works), which we pass in the bay, 
on the right, 5 miles from the wharf Soon 
after we sight Red Rock, formerly Treasure 
Rock, and enter the bay of San Pablo, 
through the straits of the same name, at a 
distance of about 15 miles from San Fran- 
cisco. West of Red Rock lie the beauti- 
ful little villages of San Quentin and San 
Rafael. They are 5 miles apart, and are 
connected by stage. The former contains 
the state-prison buildings. 

The Bay of Saoi Pablo is a large and 
beautiful sheet of water, some 15 miles 
wide and 20 miles long, surrounded by 
picturesque ranges of mountains. The 
view looking westward is picturesquely 
fine ; to the northward lie the fertile valleys 
of Petaluma, Sonoma, and Napa, bounded 
by the high mountains of the Coast 
Range, bathed in the warm summer haze 
so peculiar to California. 

At the head of Napa valley are warm 
sulphur springs, which are a favorite place 
of resort, and offer fiiie accommodations 
to the visitor. Stages at Sonoma and 
Petaluma connect Avith Uealdsburg, in 
the Russian River valley, one of the 
most fertile sections of the State. 

In the vicinity of Mt. Putas, or Geyser 
Peak, about 40 miles north of Petaluma, 
are the hot steam springs called the 
Geysers. The best means of reaching 
them is through Healdsburg. The pictur- 
esque scenery, deep ravines, towering 
mountains, and the springs — second only 
to the far-famed Geysers of Iceland — in- 
vest this section with an interest unsur- 
passed. (See Geyser Springs.) 

Still to the north the picturesque region 
of Clear Lake amply repays the tourist 
by its wild beauty and the fine hunting 
and fishing which the surrounding region 
and waters afford. 

243 



Benicia.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Sackamento. 



Resuming our voyage through San 
Pablo Bay, we pass Mave Island Navy 
Yard and Vallejo (railroad from Vallcjo 
to Marysville), where the United States 
Government have established a dry dock 
and naval station, and soon after enter the 
Straits of Carquinez, which connect the 
bay of San Pablo with the bay of Suisun. 

Tlie Straits ©f Cai-qminez. 
— These straits are about 8 miles in 
length, and generally three-fourths of a 
mile wide. 

Hemicia. — Benicia, the former cap- 
ital of the State, is situated upon the north 
side of and near the entrance to Suisun 
Bay, 30 miles from San Francisco. The 
Cahfbrnia Steam Navigation Company's 
boat plies tri-weekly, extending her trip 
to Suisun. Vessels of the largest size can 
reach this point. The steamers of the Pa- 
cific Mail Steamship line are refitted at this 
place. Their extensive founderyand ma- 
chine-shop is the most important building 
in the place. The headquarters of the 
United States Army are also located here. 
The view as we approach Benicia is grand. 
Looking southeast, Monte Diablo, the 
most remarkable peak of the Coast 
Range, is seen rising to the height of 
3,790 feet, while the little village of 
Martinez, with its groves of evergreen 
oaks, surrounded by hills, is a fine feature 
in the scene. 

Tlie Hay of" SBuismBi, — We 
now enter the bay of Suisun, another 
arm or continuation of the great bay of 
San Francisco ; here the waters of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin unite, the 
former coming in fi'om the north, and 
the latter from the south. The growing- 
village of Suisun has become the outlet 
of a rich agricultural region on ac- 
count of being connected with the north 
side of this bay by means of a navigable 
slough. 

§acE°aiiaeMto "BSiver. — Passing 
through the bay, we soon enter the mouth 
of the Sacramento River, about 45 miles 
from San Francisco. Much of the land 
adjoining this bay and the Sacramento 
and San Joaquin Rivers is marshy, cov- 
ered with tides, a kind of bulrush. Abun- 
dance of fine salmon are caught in this 
river. Proceeding toward Sacramento, we 
pass a low range of hills to the left, Far- 
ther on the banks are low and the country 
244 



is marshy. Beyond trees occur, and the 
river presents a more beautiful appear- 
ance. Sometimes in autumn the dry tales 
are on fire for miles, presenting a ma<Tiifi. 
cent appearance to the passenger on the 
steamer. In 9 hours we arrive at Sacra- 
mento, the capita] of the State, which is 
125 miles from San Francisco. 

Saei-asaaeiato. — Hotels, Golden 
Eagle, and Toll's, on K Street ; Orleans, 
Second Street, between J and K. 

Sacramento, the capital and second 
commercial city of the State, is situated 
at the confluence of the Sacramento and 
American Rivers, 125 miles from Sm 
Francisco by water, contains about 10,000 
inhabitants, and is the centre of travel 
for the northern mines of California,! 
and the Great Overland line from tki 
Missouri to the Pacific. It was found-i 
ed in the spring of 1849, near the 
site of Sutter's Fort, on the left bank 
of the American River, and was origimil- 
ly called Nueva Helvetia, It contains 
many fine buildings put up in the mo;;) 
substantial manner ; and although it suf- 
fered, like San Fi-ancisco, from fires, ic. 
the early period of its growth, and more 
recently from flood, it has steadily im 
proved, and is now the most importam 
city in the interior. It is 3 miles in ex 
tent, and is divided into four wards. I 
is regulai-ly laid out, the streets riinnin,i 
parellel with the river, and numbered anc 
lettered in regular succession. The prin 
cipal commercial streets are embracet 
within an area formed by First and Sixth 
and H and L Streets. The houses am 
stores within these limits are principaih 
of brick. Great damage was caused \)\ 
the flood of 1861-'62, and an artificial wal 
has been built round the American River 
4 feet above high water in the Sacraraenti 
River, at a cost of .$250,000. IndeeJ 
the whole city has been raised 10 fee 
above its former level. The estimate 
value of real and personal property in tli 
city is about $12,'000,000. The nci 
Capitol, when completed, will be tli 
finest edifice in the West, and, if tli 
original plan is adhered to, one of th 
most commodious and substantial striK i 
tures of its kind in the Union. The has; ^ 
ment is of gi*anite, from the Rockii 
quarries. The Court-Houae is at presei 
occuijied for legislative pui'poses. Tli 



S^RAMENTO.] 



CALIFOENIA. 



[Martsville, 



iite Agricultural Pavilion is one of the 

flest buildings in California. It was 

eted in 1859, by the people of the city, 

the Fairs of the State Agricultural 

biety, which are held annually, in Sep- 

:ibcr. In style it approaches the lio- 

nncsque. The main hall is said to be 

tl largest clear chamber in the United 

Sijtes, being 100 by 120 feet. The 

tral chandeUer contains 400 burn- 

The affairs of the Society are now 

h|(he hands of the State Board of Agri- 

ure. The Manonic Hall, southwest 

aer of K and Sixth Streets, is also a 

imodious apartment. The corner- 

le Avas laid June 24, 1865, and the 

formally opened December 12th of 

same year. The first and second stories 

occupied by the county courts. The 

lie cost of the edifice and lot was 

000. 

Among the benevolent institutions 
w thy of note, may be mentioned the 
Hm'rd, estabhshed October, 1857. The 
Sc ety's rooms are on the west side of 
Si h, between H and I Streets. For the 
ycl ending October 1, 1863, upward 
ofljOOO persons were relieved by this 
tution. The County Hospital, on L, 
-eeu Tenth and Eleventh Streets, 
dd be visited. The city contains 12 
uhes, most prominent among which 
the Congregatianist (J. E. Dwindle, 
). ), on Sixth Street, and the Eoman 
lolic (St. Rose), at the intersection 
C and Seventh Streets. The City 
etery is a pleasant enclosure of 10 
j, on Tenth Street, south of Y Street. 
as located in 1850 and laid out in 
The gateway was added in 1858, 
cost of $3,000. It contains the 



D. 
C< 
of 

a 

ac 
It 

18 
at 

StiJB, Firemen's, Masonic, Odd-Fellows', 
Fileers', and upward of 500 family plots. 
ThiNew Helvetia Cemetery, long knovi'n 
as lie Sutter's Fort Burying-Ground, is 
a Isj worthy a visit. It was the earliest 
buSing-place near the present city, hav- 
inj^peen selected in 1849. 

|e schools of the city are numerous 
antoourishing. The first public school 
wa opened February, 1854. The system 
no lembraces a high school, a grammar 
set pi, and 11 primary and intermediate 
s<ili3ls, with an aggregate attendance in 
18( of 3,587 pupils. The private schools 
niu)er ten, including the Sacramento 



College, a Commercial Academy, and three 
Seminaries for young ladies. There are 
three libraries, containing nearly 30,000 
volumes. The State Library, organized 
April 9, 1850, has its rooms in the East- 
ing's Block, southwest corner of J and 
Second Streets. Its collection numbers 
20,000. The Sacramento and Odd-Fel- 
lows' Libraries are in a flourishing condi- 
tion. 

The principal hnes of travel radia- 
ting to and from Sacramento are the 
Central Pacific Railroad, completed 93 
miles to Cisco, where it connects with the 
Overland Stages to Virginia City, Austin, 
and other towns in Nevada and the East. 
The Sacramento Vcdley Railroad to Folsom 
and Shingle Springs, where it communi- 
cates with stages to Placerville, towns 
in Nevada, and the East. Steamers 
run daily to San Francisco, Marys- 
ville, and all points on the upper Sa- 
cramento and Feather Rivers. Stages 
leave daily for Napa, Suisun, Rockville, 
Sonoma, Healdsburg, Stockton, and all the 
principal interior towns throughout the 
northern part of the State. Stages for 
Idaho, via Hunter's Station on the Pacific 
Railroad. Principal stage-offices at the 
corner of First and K Streets and at the 
Golden Eagle Hotel. 

Leaving Sacramento, and proceeding 
on our journey through the great valley 
of the Sacramento, we reach Marysville 
by stage or steamer, distant by land 44 
miles, and by water 64 miles. 

Marysville, next to Sacramento, 
is the most important of the northern 
interior towns of California, and contains 
about 6,000 inhabitants. It is finely lo- 
cated near the confluence of the Feather 
and Yuba Rivers, 90 miles from Sacra- 
mento ; accessible at all times by steam- 
er from either San Francisco or Sacra- 
mento. It commands much of the trade 
with the rich mining districts situated 
upon the Feather and Yuba Rivers, hav- 
ing a fertile agricidtural region in the im- 
mediate vicinity. Of late years it has 
been rather on the dechne, and is now 
rated as the fourth city of the State. It 
is well built, giving the impression to the 
traveller who sees it for the first time 
from the steamboat-landing, of a sub- 
stantial city, mostly built of brick. There 
"s a fine agricultural region around 
245 



Orotii.le.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Mount Shasi 



it, mostly comprised in the Tuba and 
Feather River bottoms. Bruigs's fruit 
ranches, the most extensive orchards in 
the State, perhaps in the world, are near 
this city. It has connection northward, 
via the California JVorthern Railwat/, 
with Orovihe, and by stage with North 
San Juan (37 miles), and French Corral 
(43 miles). 

Tlie MarysTille IBiittes. — 
From Marysville a fine view is obtained 
of the isolated chain of moinitains known 
as the Mart/sville Buttes. They rise from 
the plain of the Sacramento valley to the 
height of 1,200 feet, and extend for some 
eight miles in length, forming a remark- 
able feature in the Valley of the Sacra- 
mento. They embrace three principal 
peaks and many subordinate ones, and 
from the central, elevated, broken, rocky 
mass, there run off spurs in all directions, 
forming valleys between them. It is 
about 30 miles around the Buttes. The 
view from the summit, which is easily ac- 
cessible, is superb. 

Daily lines of stages leave Marysville 
i-OT all the mining localities to the north 
and east. 

Oroville. — Hotel, SL Nicholas. — 
Journeying north, we leave Marysville by 
the California Northern Hailroad for 
Oroville, distant 26 miles. Oroville is 
situated at the base of the foot-hills upon 
the main Feather River, and is a mining 
town of considerable importance, while a 
rich agricultural region extends to the 
north and west. It is the county seat of 
Butte County, and contains about 2,500 
inhabitants. At Oroville connection is 
made with the stages of the California 
Stage Company for Shasta, and the 
northern mines, La Parte, Quincy, Indian 
Valley, and Susanville. 

ISecl ISlBifi'.— Travelling through a 
rich agricultural region, over good roads, 
we cross the Sacramento River at Tehama, 
50 miles north of Oroville, and, proceed- 
ing up the western bank of that stream 
14 miles, we reach Red Bluff, a village 
of some 1,000 inhabitants, the county 
seat of Tehama County, and situated at 
the head of navigation on the Sacramento 
River. This place is the centre of trade 
for the more northern mines of Califor- 
nia ; goods reaching here from San Fran- 
cisco by the river to Colusa on the Sacra- 
246 



mento, 75 miles below, or when the wal 
is in a good stage, being shipped direcl' 
to this place, A steamer leaves San Fra 
cisco every Saturday morning for R 
Bluff; distance, 275 miles. 

Still journeying northward, we aga' 
take stage for Shasta City, distant fro^ 
Marysville 132 miles. The road is ge 
erally good, and almost a perfect lev 
the entire distance; passing through tl 
centre of the valley of the Sacrament 
crossing the Sacramento River at T 
hama, the journey is made in two da}' 
stopping over one night on the road. 

As the traveller pursues his jourrn 
from Oroville toward the Oregon lin 
many fine farms or ranches are passed- 
Bidwell's at Chico, Neal's, and La«seD 
being the oldest and best known, coi 
manding many fine views of the raou - 
tains of the Coast Range, some of who;l 
peaks rival those of the Sierra Nevad 
especially Mount St. Helen, Mount Lin 
and Mount St. John, v.'hich are each son 
7,000 to 9,000 feet above the level of th 
sea. To the eastward, on our right, tl 
snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevat* 
I'ise gleaming in the sunshine. 

Beyond Red Bluffs we obtain a fii 
view of the Lassen Buttes, among tl 
most prominent peaks of the Sierrai 
Beyond Cottonwood Creek, near M 
Reading's ' ranch, we get a spllndi!'' 
view of Mount Shasta, the highest mouii 
tain in Cahfornia, a vast cone of sno 
rising to the height of 15,000 feet abov 
the level of the sea, forming a magnificei: 
landmark at the head of the Sacrament, 
valley. 

Mount Sliasta, ©i» Tcliastt 
not only the most striking topograpbic; 
feature of northern California, but tl 
largest and grandest peak of the Caseaij 
and Sierra Nevada ranges, stands alon 
at the southern end of Shasta Valley, i 
latitude 41° 30' north, longitude aboi 
122' west. In approaching it from tt 
north and south, there is a gradual ii 
crease in the elevation of the country f^ 
about 50 miles. The region near tl 
base itself thus attains an altitude o 
3,500 feet above the sea, and forms 
vast pedestal for the Giant Butte. 

Until the visit of Colonel Fremoul, i 
1843, the summit of Shasta had generall 
been deemed inaccessible. 



1 



rNT Shasta.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Shasta. 



lAspiring to the eagle's cloudless height, 
Guuian foot hath stained Its snowy side, 

Imman breath has dimmed the icy mirror 
rich It holds unto the moon, and stars, and 
\\ sovereign 
I. We may not' gx-ow familiar with the 

iftE toary top, whereon the Genius 

ifriat mountain builds his glorious throne I * 

iThe view of the mountain from 
llsta plains is very grand. With no in- 
c- enmg mountains to obstruct the pros- 
1(1, the base is seen resting among 
l(he, evergreen forests ; higher up, it is 
J.led with hardy plants and shrubs to 
k region of frosts, and thence the 
liking snow. From the northeast and 
iclhwest a double summit, of unequal 
ilhts, is presented — ^both rounded and 
ofcd with perpetual snow, but, from 
nit points, a single cone Is shown. Ris- 
n abruptly m grandeur and great 
oAity of outline, its white, cloud-like 
Loll, drawn clearly against the sky, is 
pljily visible from points to the south 
mp than 200 miles distant. There are 
selons, however, when the monarch, 
sMuding the white robes that glisten in 
thl summer sun, retires to gloomy soli- 
tuls, and sits a storm-king upon the 
cllds, invisible to mortal eye. 

In the forests around Mount Shasta 
arjfound the maple, evergreen oak, and 
selral varieties of pine, including the 
spice, cedar, and fir. Chief among them 
alhr symmetry and perfection of figure, 
is Ihe majestic sugar-pine, nearly equal- 
in Ithe red-wood in size, and excelled by 
nch -as a beautiful forest tree. 

[The ascent may be accomplished in a 
fairable season — m August or Septem- 
be-without much danger or difiBculty, 
bjfeout, resolute men. The extreme ex- 
hJition reaUzed in ascending Mounts 
Bile or Popocatapetl, is not experienced ; 
nofis the trial so dangerous, by reason 
ofkige fissures and icy chasms; the 
mi'i difficulty arises from the rarefied 
colition of the air, to which the system 
m| adapt itself rather suddenly for 
coprt. 

[Shasta Valley spread beneath our 

feJ its grassy plains and evergreen 

gr|e3, dotted with villages, mines, and 

fails, the whole affording scenes uiv 

f_J 

■'■ iilc to Monnt Shasta, by John 11. Tadge. 



equalled in beauty, variety, and extent of 
landscape, and which may not be ade- 
quately described." 

All these excursions can be best accom- 
pUshed on animals. A mule is preferable, 
at an expense of about $2 per day, which 
includes every thing. Good meals and 
sleeping accommodations are found along 
the routes, which is truly surprising, con- 
sidering the almost impracticable nature 
of the country traversed. There is a stage 
line from Oroville, via Pence's Ranch, 
Inskip, and Big Meadows, to Susanville 
(104 miles), which is a town of some im- 
portance, situated between Eagle and 
Honey Lakes, but the trip will hardly re- 
pay the tourist. 

Slaastsa. — Hotels, the Umpire and 
American. 

At a distance of 28 miles from Red 
Blufi" we pass through Horsetown, a pros- 
perous mining place of 500 inhabitants, 
and 9 miles farther we arrive at Shasta. 
This town is situated in the foot-hills 
of the mountains stretching across the 
northern end of the State, connecting the 
northern Sierras with the Coast Range. 
It is a mining town of 800 inhabitants, at 
the northern extremity of what was once 
wagon navigation. Formerly all goods 
destmed for mines farther north, had to 
be packed on mules, but a good wagon- 
road has recently been constructed over 
the Siskiyou Mountains, by the California 
Stage Company, for the purpose of trans- 
porting the United States mail between 
Sacramento and Portland, Oregon. 

From Shasta the rich mining locahties 
in the vicinity of Weaverville, distant 38 
miles, and Humboldt Bay, on the Pacific 
coast, some 75 miles distant, can be 
visited on animals. 

If the traveller desire to pursue his 
journey still farther north, he may do so 
favorably by the following route : 

Leaving Shasta for Yreka, w5 pass the 
Tower House, 12 miles; French Gulch, 15 
miles ; Mountain House, 23 miles ; Gibb's 
Ferry, 35 miles ; ChadJaourne, 43 miles ; 
Trinity Centre, 49 miles ; and Thomp- 
son's, 60 miles ; arriving at New York 
House, 64 miles, at the base of Scott 
Mountain, which is now to be climbed. 
In a distance of 6 miles farther we rise 
2,060 feet. Every foot of the distance 
has been made into a superb roadway by 
24*7 



Yreka.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[DOWNIEVIU 



cutting into the solid rock, bridging 
chasms, excavating the precipitous side 
of the mountain, walling up with stone, 
clearing away a dense growth of timber, 
and overcoming otlier obstacles. On the 
right rises the perpendicular embank- 
ment created in excavating for the road, 
while on the left the traveller looks down 
a fearful precipice, its side bristling with 
sharp and jagged rocks. The summit 
reached, we are upward of 5,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. Here, to the 
right, we again obtain a glorious view of 
Mount Slmsta, covered with its snowy 
shroud. A continuous descent of 7 miles 
brings us to the head of Scott Vallei/, 
and 3 miles beyond is Callahan'' s Rayich. 
Scott Valley is a level area 40 miles long 
and from 3 to 9 miles wide, a beautiful 
tract of country, hemmed in on all sides 
by bold and precipitous mountains. Pass- 
ing tln-ough Fort Jones, 22 miles north, 
and crossing a lofty divide at the termina- 
tion of the valley, we arrive at Yreka, 
116 miles from Shasta. 

Yi'clsa. — Hotels, the 3fetropolitan 
and Yrel-a. 

Yreka, the county seat of Siskiyou 
county, was formerly the most important 
milling town north of Oroville. The 
town contains about 1,500 inhabitants, is 
well laid out, has many fine buildings, 
and is lighted with gas. It is situated in 
the valley of Shasta Creek, is encom- 
passed with mountains, and is distant 
from the Oregon State line 28 miles. The 
mines in the vicinity are very productive, 
giving the place a steady and rapid 
growth. A fine view of Mount Shasta, 
distant some 30 miles, is attained from 
the ridge east of the town. 

Proceeding north we pass through Cot- 
tonwood, 20 miles, Cole's, 28 miles, where 
there is a good wayside inn. Here we 
ascend the Siskiyou Mountain, 4 miles, 
and from its summit get the last glimpse 
of Mount Shasta. Descending the moun- 
tain 4 miles to its base, and traversing 20 
miles of rolling country, we arrive at 
Jacksonville, 56 miles from Yreka. 

aB'acJcsoMxille is a prominent 
town of Southern Oregon, situa,ted in the 
fertile Rogue River valley, about 9 miles 
south of that river. From Jacksonville, 
AUhouse lies about 60 miles west, and 
Crescent City on the Pacific coast south 
248 



of the boundary line, 125 miles, trave 
iug an exceedingly rough country. 

Having reached the northern limits ■ 
our journey through California, we ik 
return to Marysville, via Yreka and R 
Bluff. From Yreka the traveller, if 
disposed, can make an excursion westwa 
to the coast. Scott's Bar, a rich minii, 
locality, lies some 25 miles distant; t!; 
Perks of Salmon, a mining locality '■ 
Klamath County, about 90 miles distant 
the mouth of the Trinity River, 130njile»' 
and Trinidad on the coast, about 1( 
miles. 

MOUTE II. 

TO THE SIERRA NEVADA IWUJVTAJH 
AND MINES. 

HATiNGf returned to Marysville, w| jri: 
now make an excursion among the Sent 
Nevada Mountains, visiting the most eel i 
brated mining regions which lie along thel 
western slope. 

Taking the Downieville stage, we pai 
through the once rich locaUties of Lorl 
Bar, 14 miles, Camptonville, 41 miles, ar, 
Goody ear's Bar, 57 miles, arriving ;; 
Downieville, 5 miles, making the tot I 
distance from Marysville 62 miles. E 
this route we visit what were once tl 
most important river and hill diggings i 
the State, finding moderate accommod 
tions and fare at all points upon tl 
road. 

E&oiinmieville. — IioT:^i,'a,Amerka 
Exchange, Andrews'' Hotel. 

Downieville is the county seat of Sieri 
County, and contained, in 1S62, abon 
1,500 inhabitants. It is situated at tl 
junction of the east and south forks c 
tlie North Yuba River, high up in tl 
mountains, its elevation being about 4,0i 
feet above the level of the sea. From S; 
cramento it can best be reached by stag 
via Colfax Station (58 miles), on the C« 
tral Pacific Railway. The scenery is bbl 
and impressive, the mountains rising to: 
great height on either hand. The Siern 
knifes, 12 miles east, and 9,000 feet higll 
form a notable featui-e in the landscap' 
An excursion from this point nortli woul 
be of interest, affording the traveller a 
opportunity to pass through the rich an 
prosperous mining localities of Mon 



j rADA.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Grass Valley 



,lsto, 4 miles ; SureJia, 7 ; Morristoimi^ 
'• La Porte, 18 ; Gibsonville, 25 ; JS^eiv- 
27 ; Onion Valley, 30 ; I^ekonh 
^iit, 36, arriving at Quincey, 43 miles, 
ij a very wild and rouuh country. 

i|0 the northeast of Quincey, which is 
ri county seat of Plumas County, lie 
itey Lake, Honey Lake Valley, and 
T^.ey Lake Pass. Pilot Peak, near 
)!|tin Valley, is, next to Lassen's Butte, 
Lsliighest peak of the northern Sierras. 
Lffi-weekly stage leaves Downieville, via 
/(| Canon, for La Porte, 26 miles ; also 
k pekly stage to Virginia City, Nevada, 
Kij miles. 

paving Downieville for Nevada, we 
a'l a southerly direction through Forest 
yi| 6 miles ; ComptonviUe, 18 ; North 
Sal Juan, 26; arriving at Nevada, 38 
nip in 12 hours. A cheaper and more 
xlditious route is now from Colfax Sta- 
io on the Central Pacific Raihuay, via 
xr s Valley. 

'. e V a d a . — Hotels, United States 
Ic ', National Exchange. 

;;vada, once the lai'gest mining town 
ti 16 State, is still a flourisliing place, 
,n> ;he county seat of Nevada County. It 
ouins a population of about 4,000, and 
s tie centime of a large, rich mining region. 
t Mtuated well up among the foot-hills, 
.uc|ontains many good hotels, stores, and 
liwhes. Having suffered like most of 
he|ties of California from frequent fires, 
liejusiness portion of the town has been 
ebit with substantial fire-proof struc- 
urj. In the vicinity the hill diggings 
,nc ;unnels are numerous and extensive. 
1 1 5 ever been the first in using the im- 
>ro;d methods pf hydraulic pressure, 
lu??, tunnels, etc. Immense outlays in 
' iinals, for mining purposes, have 
;de here and elsewhere in Nevada 

'I y. 

A'isit beyond the town toward the 
leafof the South Yuba will interest the 
trf^er. Besides affording him an op- 
lorliity to witness the rugged scenery 
if t| region, it will perhaps serve to con- 
■inclhini of the exhaustless nature of the 
niiig interests of California, as all the 
mnuise ridges dividing the Yuba liivei", 
'xtt'ling for 20 or 30 miles in length, 
.boi|d in the richest mines of gold, which 
fill .ke many years of labor to develop. 
?hepuntry also affords exhaustless quan- 



tities of the finest lumber, consisting of 
pine, cedar, fir, etc. 

Nevada is the western terminus of an 
important route over the Sierras to Vir- 
ginia City, in Nevada, called the Henness 
Pass Route. A good road has been con- 
structed over this route, which has an 
easier grade than any of those farther 
south. The distance from Nevada to Vir- 
ginia City is about 100 miles. 

<5rass Valley. — Hotel, Exchange 
Hotel. 

Grass Valley, 4 miles south of Nevada, 
and 66 northeast of Sacramento, via Col- 
fax, is the quartz-mining centre of the 
State. It is finely located, and is noted 
for its hotels and beautiful residences, as 
well as numerous quartz-mills. It is said 
to contain more wealth, including its mills 
and machinery, than any other mining 
town in the State. The mines hereabouts 
are at present attracting immigration, and 
the population, variously estimated at 
from 2,000 to 4,000, is rapidly increas- 
ing. 

Aiilsiina. — Hotels, Empire, Ameri- 
can. — Journeying southward from Grass 
Valley, we wind along through the moun- 
tains and forests, crossing Bear River, 
arriving at Auburn, on the Pacific Central 
Railway, thirty-six miles northeast of 
Sacramento. This is a fine village of 
about 2,000 inhabitants, the county seat 
of Placer County, and the centre of a 
large farming region. 

A rich mining region exists riortheast 
of Auburn, between the north and middle 
forks of the American River, and many 
thriving mining towns have sprung up, 
among which are Illinoistown, Iowa Hill, 
Ophir, Gold Hill, Forest Hill, Yankee 
Jim's, Michigan Bluffs, and others, distant 
from 4 to 18 miles, and reached daily by 
stage. 

l>tttcli Flat, 3 1 miles distant, was 
formerly the starting-point of what is 
called the Dutch-Flat Wagon-Road over 
the Sierras, via the Truckee Pass, to Vir- 
ginia City. 

IPolsom. — Hotels, Patterson'' s, Cen- 
tral. — Folsom is situated on the Sacra- 
mento Valley Railway, 22 miles east of 
Sacramento, and 18 miles south of Au- 
burn. It stands at the base of the Foot 
Hills, and is surrounded by both a mining 
and an agricultural region. Trains now 
249 



^ 



FOLSOM.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[PLACERYtUR. 



run over the Vallei/ Road to Sbinglc 
Springs, connecting Folsom with Placer- 
ville, and the stage line to Nevada. While 
in this neighborhood an opportunity is 
aiforded of visiting the AlahaHttr Gave, 
12 miles from Folsom. This cave, 
which was discovered in April, 1860, by 
two men who were quarrying lime- 
stone, is situated on the Whiskey-Bar 
Road, 5 miles from Centreville, in El 
Dorado County. It is thus described by 
a recent visitor : " A single step takes 
you from the street into the hall of the 
silent mansion. This entrance is not the 
one first discovered, but has been cut 
through the solid rock from another cham- 
ber to the outer world. Passing through 
this, the visitor is ushered into an irregu- 
lar apartment two hundred feet in length 
by perhaps seventy-five in width, and of 
various heights, with numerous eleva- 
tions, depressions, recesses, galleries, etc. 
A scene of wonderful magnificence is be- 
fore him. Millions of jewels appear to be 
glittering from the walls. Shining pend- 
ants, some large, some small, some short, 
some very long, some I'euching from ceil- 
ing to floor, s.ome thick, some slender, 
some tapering, some uniform, some tubu- 
lar, some solid, some clear as crystal, 
some of a bluish tinge, hang thickly from 
the marble roof. Here a little wrinkly 
stub of a stalagmite pushes itself up from 
the floor; and there stands Lot's wife 
turned not into a pillar of salt, but of 
marble ; and there, again, is Mount Blanc 
rising with its snowy folds several feet 
above your head. Passing through this 
first chamber and descending a little, you 
turn to the left, through a cross-section, 
from which shoot out several passages, 
some brilliantly lit, and beautiful to be 
hold, and others, one at least, as yetimex- 
plored. Turning still to the left, you en- 
ter the last chamber, lying exactly parallel 
to the one first entered, but if any thing 
more beautiful. This is called the Crystal 
Chapel,a,i\d has its belfry and pulpit as well. 
The pulpit especially is a thing of rare 
beauty, probably built in the olden time, 
as it is rather too near the ceiling to be 
of modern design. It has been formed by 
droppings from above, catchmg on a pro- 
jection of rock, and then rising and 
spreading and folding over with the most 
graceful drapery underneath." 
250 



l*liacerville . — Hotki^s, Oary 
House, Orleans Hotel. Plaeerville, the 
county seat of El Dorado County, is 28 
■miles east of Folsom. The Valley Rail., 
road is now in progress from that point 
via Shingle Springs. It is one of the 
oldest and one of the largest of the moun- 
tain towns, containing about 4,000 in- 
habitants. It is on one of the priucipal 
routes of travel over the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains to the Washoe region in Carson 
Valley, and has long been a prominent 
out-fitting point. The town of Coloma, 
10 miles northwest of Plaeerville, was for- 
merly the county seat of El Dorado 
County, and is distinguished as the plate 
where gold was first discovered. There- 
mains of the old saw-mill of Captain Sut-- 
ter are just below the present town, and 
will be looked upon with much inferesti 
by the stranger as a memento of the 
great event which has revolutionized the 
commerce of the world. 

Carson Valley. — We will now 
accompany our traveller over the Sierra; 
to Carson Valley, touching at other point- 
on the eastern slope, where exist silvci 
and gold mines of marvellous richncs:^ 
• which are attracting capitaUsts from tin 
Old and New World. There is a finely 
graded road the whole distance, and i 
winds through some of the wildest am 
most beautiful scenery in California, a 
v/ell as affording glimpses of the moi 
grand and sublime. The facilities for trav 
el over the Plaeerville and Virginia Cii 
Road are of the best description. Alui; 
of mail stages runs daily between the tw' 
cities, bringing them within 30 hours oi 
each other, allowing passengers time fof 
meals and rest upon the road. 

Leaving Plaeerville in the afternoon, w 
enter almost immediately upon the broai 
mountain road that by easy grades cor 
ducts us to the west summit of the Sierr 
Nevada, a height of 7,000 feet above th 
level of the sea. As we approach th 
summil, the pines, firs, and cedars attai, 
a gigantic size, and constitute a densj 
forest. At Crippen's, 26 miles froi 
Plaeerville, we pass the night. Kenewin' 
the journey at daybreak, we pass throng 
Strawberry Valley, 50 miles from Place' 
ville, where a good hotel affords the be; 
of accommodation ; and a few miles fa 
ther reach the western summit. Fro; 



iKE TaHOE.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Petaluma. 



is point of view we have a combination 

mountain, lake, and valley scenery, un- 

rpassed in beauty and wild grandeur by 

tiy similar scene perhaps on the Amer- 

kn continent. ' At our feet lies Lake 

\alley, more than a thousand feet below. 

phite ledges gleam through the dark 

[lies that fringe its sides, which rise in 

ces to snow-covered peaks. On the 

't and northeastward, at a distance of 7 

les, repose the deep-blue waters of Lake 

hoe (Bigler), while beyond, the extrem- 

of the valley loses itself in the dis- 

ce. The effect of the whole scene is 

charming as it is indescribable. 

Kialie Talaoe. — There is no lake 

California, indeed there are few any- 

ere, that will compare with Tahoe for 

llauty and variety of scenery. It is 25 

les long, and about 6 in average width. 

e surrounding mountains rise from one 

(| three, and in some cases four thous- 

d feet above its surface. From the 

ter's edge to the summits of these 

luntains, a dense pine forest extends, 

(fcept at points where a peak of more 

t 



n ordinary elevation rears its bald 
id above the waving forests. The 
e abounds with fish. Boats and tackle 
be obtained at the Glenbrook, Lake, 
Tahoe City hotels. From the Glen- 

Ibok a delightful excursion can be made 
Tahoe City, on the opposite side. The 
ling and hunting on this side is consid- 
d the best on the lake. Fallen Leaf 
ke and Tahlae Mounlam should be vis- 
i. Descending into the valley by a 
dway excavated from the side of the 
i|untain, we pass over the east summit 
jough BaggetCs Pass, and 5 miles be- 
id find ourselves in the open, level, 
vated plain of Carson Valley, 2 miles 
th of Genoa. 

Jarson Valley is a tract of nearly lev- 
land, about 30 miles long and 10 

\^|e, three-fourths of which is well 

a^pted for agricultural purposes. Al- 
ugh shut in by high mountains 
the east and. on the west, it is 
If an elevated plateau, more than 
)0 feet above the level of the sea. 
,son lliver, fringed with willows and 

cl^sional cottonwoods, flows through it 
a northerly direction. The eastern 
te of the Sierras is very abrupt, rising 
sharp angle from the western hmit 



of the valley, and is covered with pines, 
though none grow in the valley below. 
This was once, and is yet to many, the 
favorite route for overland immigrants 
to California ; much the largest share 
of travel now proceeds by stage to 
Cisco and thence by railway to Sacra- 
mento, though other routes across the 
mountains are much used. 



MOUTE III. 

SAN FRANCISCO TO PETALUMA AND 
THE GEYSERS. 

The route to the far-famed Geysers of 
Sonoma County from San Francisco is by 
steamer to Petaluma, and thence by stage, 
via Santa Rosa and Healdsburg. 

Leaving the city at Broadway Wharf, 
the course steered is due north, the 
same as that to Sacramento and Stock- 
ton, along the western shore of San 
Pablo Bay, affording the tourist a view 
of Tamal Pais and the smiling little vil- 
lages of San Quentiu and San Rafael. A 
few miles north of the former place the 
boat enters the Petaluma Creek or 
" Slough," and after calling at Lakeville, 
on the east bank, reaches her landing, 23 
miles north of that village and about two 
miles south of Petaluma, where a horse- 
car is in waiting to conduct us to the 
town. The entire distance of 48 miles 
from San Francisco is usually accom- 
plished in about four hours. 

I'etjalTOiM.a,* the county seat of 
Sonoma County, is pleasantly situated 
near the head of navigation on Petaluma 
Creek. Schooners and other small craft 
navigate the creek to this point. It was 
laid out in 1852, by Lewis & Hentzelman, 
near what was originally the Petaluma 
Grant, and known at that time as the 
Brewster Survey. It is in the centre of 
a fertile agricultural region, and large 
quantities of grain are annually shipped 
hence. Sonoma County is also famous 
for its vineyards. 

Petaluma was incorporated in 1858, 
and now contains a population of 3,500. 
It is lighted with gas, and well supplied 
with water from Artesian wells. Excel- 
lent building material is obtained within 



* Anglice, 



' EolUng Hills." 
251 



Healdsburg.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[The Geyserb. 



the limits of the town. Religious and 
educational institutions are numerous and 
flourishing. There are '7 ehureli edifices 
and 12 public and private schools. Tlio 
Pacific College (Baptist) is located here. 
Henshaw Hall has sittings for 750 per- 
sons. The town contains two flouring- 
mills, one iron foimdery, a pottery, tan- 
nery, and several carriage manufactories 
and brick-yards, and, what is more de- 
sirable still to the traveller, it has a good 
hotel — the American House. The Sono- 
ma County Journal and Gazette is pub- 
lished weekly. Petaluma is the radiating 
point of numerous stage lines. The fol- 
lowing run regularly throughout the year 
viz., the Petaluma and Gloverdale^ via 
Healdsburg (32 miles), to Cloverdale (49 
miles), connecting there, semi-weekly, 
with stages to Mendocino (121 miles) ; 
Petaluma and Duncai'Cs Mill, tri-weekly, 
via Bloomfield (14 miles) to Duncan's 
Mill (36 miles), where connection is made 
to Point Arenas, 50 miles beyond ; and the 
Petaluma and Bodega line, via Sebastopol 
(16 miles) to Bodega (26 miles). 

Leaving Petaluma at 7 a. m., we soon 
reach Santa Rosa (16 miles), a pleasant lit- 
tle town with a good hostelry (Colgan's), 
where passengers making the trip during 
the winter season have half an hour for 
dinner. Six miles beyond Santa Rosa we 
reach Mark West Station and post-office, 
and in sis miles more Windsor, at both 
of which places short stoppages are made. 

Mesild-Slsiii-g, 32 miles from Peta- 
luma, is a thriving town, and the point 
of departure for the Geysers. In sum- 
mer the stages run through from Peta- 
luma to the Geysers in one day ; but in 
winter, when the roads are heavy, and in 
some places well-nigh impassable, travel- 
lers will find it necessary to remain at 
Healdsburg (Wright's Hotel) over night, 
proceeding thence to the springs on 
horseback. 

To those who have never visited the 
Geysers, a good guide is indispensa- 
ble. Mr. Poss, who is to be found in 
Healdsburg when not engaged in piloting 
parties over the road, has the reputation 
of being the best Geyser man in the 
county, and tourists will do well to 
secure his services. Mr. Shafer, the pro- 
prietor of the Geyser Springs Hotel, will 
also furnish guides when desired. 
252 



Leaving Healdsburg early in the moru- 
ing, a few miles' travel on the road Ijrings 
the traveller to Rag's Ranch, situated 
among the foot-hills, 617 feet above the 
sea-level, and commanding a fine view of 
Russian River valley, the Coast Range, 
Mount St. Helens, etc. Prom this point 
the ascent is gradual for 3 miles, till wc 
reach Geyser (Godwin's) Peak, which is 
3,470 feet high. Prom this point the- 
view is charming. The whole valley ol 
Russian River lies at your feet, extendin;.; 
from southeast and south where it joins; 
Petaluma Valley, round to the northwest. 
Beyond the valley extends the long linei 
of the Coast Mountains. To the south-. 
east rises Mount St. Helens, considered 
by many the most beautiful mountain ir. 
California. Directly south, at a distance 
of 60 to 70 miles, when the overhaiiginf: 
fog is not too dense, may be discemeti 
the waters of the lovely bay and the bluo 
waves of the mighty Pacific. In finei 
clear weather the view from this Peak l- 
amongst the finest to be had in all thi.'i 
lovely region. The sides of the Peak U. 
its summit are covered with a thicl? 
growth of tangled chaparral. Leaviii; 
the summit, the trail conducts the travel 
ler along a narrow ridge called by th' 
unpoetical name of the "Hog's Back,'. 
which divides the waters of Phdon Hive 
and Sulphur Creek. Near the foot of th 
hill stands the Geyser Sjrnngs EoU< 
which is open to visitors from May t 
October. The view of the Geysers fror 
the hotel is an impressive one, more pai 
ticularly in the morning, when the vapo 
can be plainly seen issuing from the eart 
in a hundred different places ; the uumen 
ous columns uniting at some distanc 
from the earth, and forming an immenf 
cloud which overhangs the whole cafioi 
The unearthly-looking canon in whic 
most of the springs are situated, mak( 
up into the mountains directly from tl 
river. A short distance up the canon 
a deep shady pool which receives tl 
united waters of all the -springs above \\ 
and which atiords a most luxurious bat l 
Farther up is Proserpine'' s Grotto, a loveu 
nook, whence glimpses of the narro ■ 
gorge above with its cascades can be d 
tained. We are already amid the spring ,■ 
which become more numerous and noii 
as we advance up the caSon. Thi i 



APA.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Stockton. 



mbep nearly 200, of every gradation of 

linperature, and impregnated with all 

irts of mineral and cliemical compounds. 

jie Steamboat Geyser, the Devil's Grisi- 

fll, and the Witehes^ Caldron, are the 

st noteworthy. After inspecting the 

ings, it is worth the visitor's while to 

Imb the mountains on tlie north side of 

ijb Plutou, and take a view of Clear 

\lce and the surrounding landscape. 

It, perhaps, as a late writer has re- 

mrked, the scene which would delight a 

Irer of natui'e most can be obtained by 

ijiug early and walking back half a mile 

lion the trail which .descends to the 

ijtel. " It is to see the gorgeous tints 

cl the eastern sky, as the sun comes 

cpbing up behind the distant mountains, 

sp afterward to watch his long slanting 

lis in the illuminated mist, as they come 

aming down the canon of the Pluton, 

ihiug on the water in dots and splashes 

dazzling light, and tipping the rich 

dows of the closely-woven foliage with 

•inge of gold." 

two days will amply sufiSce to see the 
(|-sers, the round trip from Healdsburg 
al back being comfortably accomplished 
iipvo more. From Healdsburg the re- 
t ju trip to San Francisco can be profit- 
ajy made through the Napa valley, via 
Cjestoga Springs, St. Helens, and Sebasto- 
p| to Napa, whence a boat leaves daily 
f( San Francisco. 

]<fapa^ the county seat of Napa 
Cint.y, is situated on the west bank of 
Nia River, 12 miles from its mouth, 
a about 20 miles above Benicia, on 

5 Pablo Bay. Stages to Sacramento, 

6 niles ; to the Geysers, 70 miles. 

MOUTE IV. 

S.\r FRANCISCO TO STOCKTON AND 
THE £IG TREE GRO VES. 

ttoclcton. — Hotel, Weber House. 

jtockton, the port and principal entre- 
pcjof the San Joacpiin district, is situ- 
atl upon a slough or arm of the San 
J(|iuin River, 3 miles from its junction 
w:i that stream, and 125 miles from San 
Fmcisco, via the steamboat route, and 
seniles via the stage route through Ala- 
mU County to Oakland and across the 
'^r' A railway is now in progress which 



will eventually connect Stockton with 
San Jose, and other towns south. Stock- 
ton is the centre of trade and travel for 
all the country south of the Cosumnes 
River, the district generally known as the 
Southern Mines. The city, which was 
incorporated July 25, 1850, embraces an 
area of one mile square. It contains a 
population of 7,500 inhabitants, and has 
several good hotels, churches, and a 
theatre. The streets, 66 in number, are 
well graded and planked; many of the 
stores and other places of business aro 
fine structures of brick. A daily line of 
steamers from San Francisco reach the 
place in the morning, and connect with 
the numerous lines of stages which leave 
every morning for the various mining 
towns in the interior. In the environs of 
Stockton, particularly toward the Cala- 
veras River, many fine farms or I'anches 
are located, and under good improvement. 
The State Insane Asi/hon should be visit- 
ed. It is a large, substantial edifice, less 
than a mile from the centre of the city 
and admirably adapted to the purposes 
intended. The grounds attached to the 
asylum buildings embrace 120 acres, and 
are being tastefully laid out. The old 
building, or male department, should be 
first visited. The south wing was built 
in 1853, the central building added iu 
1854, and the north wing in 1859. The 
new building is an imposing structure of 
brick, 448 feet front, with two wings, each 
150 feet. It was commenced in 1864, 
and will be completed in 1870, at a cost 
of $275,000. It is intended for the ac- 
commodation of the female patients. The 
number of patients, male and female, 
confined here at present, is about 750. 
Strangers admitted daily on application 
to the Superintendent, Dr. Shurtlcff, __at 
the asylum. 

The Presbyterian, Catholic, and Bap- 
tist churches are fine commodious struc- 
tures. The Court-House, commenced 
in 1853, occupies the centre of the 
public square. The Stockton Independ- 
ent, the leading newspaper of this sec- 
tion of the State, is among the note- 
worthy institutions of the city. The 
Artesian Well, 1,002 feet deep, and dis- 
charging 860,000 gallons of water per 
diem, is well worth inspecting. Lindsey 
Point, where Captain Lindsey was killed 
263 



MOKELUMNE HlLL.] 



CALIFORNIA, 



[MaRPHY'B. 



by the Indians, is also a place of interest 
to visitors. The views obtained from 
Stockton are very fine. On the east the 
lofty Sierra Nevada, with its snow-cap- 
ped summits, is ever visible, and on the 
west the peaks of Mount Diablo rise in 
towering maa-nificonce. Stockton being 
the main starting-point for the famous 
Yo-Semite and Big Tree Groves of Cala- 
veras and Mai'iposa, is usually visited by 
large numbers of strangers in the spring 
and summer months. Stages run to 
Sacramento (50 miles), San Andreas (45 
miles), Copperopolis (36 miles), Campo 
Seco (38 miles). The El Dorado Livery 
Stable has good outfits. 

Mokeliimiie Mill. — Hotels, 
Union House, La Fayette House. 

Mokelumne Hill, the county seat of Ca- 
laveras County, has a population of about 
1,000, and contains many fine stone build- 
ings, and other permanent structures. In 
the vicinity, some of the richest hill dig- 
gings in the State have been found. A 
canal for biinging water for mining pur- 
poses a distance of 40 miles, has been in 
use several years ; lumber is also floated 
down from the lumber region above. 

In speaking of the canals of the mining 
region, it will be proper to state that mil- 
lions of dollars are most profitably em- 
ployed in their structure, and they are 
found traversing almost every ravine and 
flat ; brought from far up the mountains 
at the sources of the streams ; sometimes 
constructed of plank the entii-e distance, 
as is the canal coming into Mokelumne 
Hill. These are among the greatest en- 
terprises of the State, involving an im- 
mense outlay of capital and labor. In 
Calaveras County alone there are 54 
canals and water ditches, whose aggre- 
gate length is 550 mdes, and the cost of 
construction nearly two milhons of dollars. 
Stages daily between Mokelumne HUl and 
Latrobe, via Sutter Creek, Amador, and 
Drytown. 

Sam Aii€lreas. — Hotels, Metro- 
politan, KinderhooJc. 

Proceeding south from Mokelumne Hill 
by stage 9 miles, we arrive at San Andre- 
as, a prosperous mining to^vn of over 1,000 
inhabitants, 45 miles from Stockton, via 
Spring Valley. It is beautifully situated 
in close proximity to well-wooded hills. 
Northward and eastward on Murray Creek 
254 



are a number of orchards, gardens, and 
grazing ranches ; to the west is the re^ju- 
lar wall-formed Bear Mountain, covered 
with grass and oak timber. Daily stagu 
to Sonora, 26 miles. 

Miirpliy's. — Hotel, Sperry's. 

A ride of 15 miles from San Andreas 
brings us to Murphy's, a village of GOO or 
800 inhabitants, containing a fine hotel 
built of stone. In the immediate vicin- 
ity of the town were formerly rich, deep 
diggings which were worked on an ex- 
tensive scale. A daily line of coaches 
reach Stockton from this point, via Angels 
and Copperopolis. The distance froui 
Sacramento to Murphy's by stage route 
is 95 miles ; from Stockton, 79 miles :: 
from Columbia, 11 miles; from Sonora, 
15 miles ; from Copperopolis, 14 miles. 
We are now within 15 miles of the cele 
brated grove of mammoth trees in Gala; 
veras County. 

Mamanotli. Tree 45r©Te.— 
Leaving Murphy's in the morning, we ar 
rive at the grove in 3 hours, by carriagi 
or on horseback, the road winding througli 
a fine open forest, consisting of immenst 
pines, firs, cedars, etc. 

" The giant trees, in silent mnjesty. 
Like pillars, stand 'neath Heaven's might 

dome. 
'Twould seem that, perched upon their toprao; 

branch, 
With outstretched finger, man might touch tL 

stars ; 
Yet, conld he gain that height, tha houndle.- 

sky 
"Were still as far beyond his utmost reach 
As from the burrowing toilers in a mine. 
Their age imknoTvn, into what depths of time 
Might Fancy wander sportively, and deem 
Some Monarch-Father of this grove set forth 
His tiny shoot, when the primeval flood 
Kecoded from the old and changed earth ; 
Perhaps, coeval with Assyrian kings. 
His branches in dominion spread ; from age 
To age, his sapling heirs with empires grew. 
When Time those patriarchs' leafy tress 

strewed 
Upon the earth, while Art and Science slept, 
And ruthless hordes drove back ImprovemeB' 

stream, 
Their sturdy oaklings throve, and, in thoirtm ■ 
Eose, when Columbus gave to Spain a world,], I 
How many races, savage or refined, I 

Have dwelt beneath their shelter I Who sh' 

say 
(If hands irreverent molest them not) 
But they may shadow mighty cities, reared 
E'on at their roots, in centuries to come. 
Till, with the "Everlasting hills " they bow, 
When "Time shall be no longer 1 " 

At the grove the Mammoth Tree Bo 



[ammoth Tk,ee Grove.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Mammoth Tree Grove. 



Bfords every accommodation to the vis- 
or, and several days may be pleasant- 
ly spent at this point. The house 
ices the grove — having the greater 
pmber of the trees to the left, look- 
ig from the veranda, and the two 
Sentinels" immediately in front, about 
30 yards to the eastward. The valley 
jntains something over 160 acres of 
,nd. It is 4,000 feet above the level 
f the sea. Ninety-three trees of this 
lecies (not including those of 1, 2, 
id 3 years' growth) are now standing, 
id are all found within an area of 50 
3res of the valley. They are evidently a 
gantic species of cedar, as is indicated 
y the growth, bark, and leaf; according 
I botanists, however, they belong to the 
mily of I'axodiums, and have been justly 
imed Washingtonia Gigantea, and are 
yond doubt the most stupendous vege- 
.ble products upon earth. They were 
scovered in the sprmg of 1850, by Mr. 

T. Dowd, while on a hunt for deer, 
hose account to his companions of what 
e had seen, upon returning to camp, was 
)nsidered fabulous and utterly discred- 
£d until proved by actual measurement, 
be valley enjoys a splendid climate dur- 
g the spi'iug, summer, and autumn 
onths, being free from the heat of the 
wer country and from the cold of the 
gher mountains. Vegetation remains 
esh and green until the middle of Octo- 
;r, and the water is always pure and 
>ld. Snow falls usually about the mid- 
e of December, often accumulating to a 
!pth of 4 or 5 feet, and entirely disap- 
!ars by the middle of April. The viciu- 
Y offers every inducement to sportsmen ; 
1 kinds of game common to the country 
)ound, wliile the adjacent streams afford 
:cellent troutrfishiug. Delightful horse- 
ick or buggy rides conduct the visitor 

many interesting points of scenery or 
)jects of curiosity, among wliich may bo 
entioned the JF'alls of the Scm Antonio, 
id the Basalltc Cliff on the North Fork 
' the Stanislaus Kiver. 
In front of the hotel (100 yards 
stant) stands the stmnp of the Big 
REE. It measures 96 feet in cir- 
imference, and is 7 feet high ; a sec- 
jn of 2 feet was taken from tliis stump, 
po a section of bark 50 feet long, by 
pt. Hanford, and carried to New York 



for exhibition; they are now in Paris. 
The surface of the stump is smooth, and 
affords ample space for 32 persons to 
dance, it being 75 feet in circumference, 
solid timber. Theatrical performances 
have also been given upon it by the 
" Chapman Family" in May, 1855 ; also, 
the "Robinson Family," July 4, 1855. 
This monster tree was cut down by bor- 
ing with augers and sawing the spaces be- 
tween. It required the labor of 5 men 
25 days to effect its fall, the tree standing 
so nearly perpendicular that a wedge and 
battering-ram were necessary to cause its 
fall after being fully cut off. Near the 
stump Ues a section of the trunk ; this is 
25 feet in diameter and 20 feet long ; be- 
yond lies the immense trunk as it fell, 
measuring 302 feet from the base of the 
stun>p to its extremity. Upon this is 
situated the bar room and ten-pin alley, 
stretching along its upper surface for a 
distance of 81 feet, affording ample space 
for two alley-beds, side by side. About 
80 feet from this stump stand the " Two 
Sentinels," each over 300 feet high, and 
the larger 23 feet in diameter. The car- 
riage road, approaching the hotel, passes 
directly between the " Two Sentinels." 
South of the " Sentinels," and to the right 
of the road as you approach them on the 
hill-side, stands a tree over 14 feet in di- 
ameter, which has been named " Old 
Dowd," in honor of the discoverer of the 
grove. 

Leaving the hotel, the grove is best 
entered by the left-hand carriage road. 
By adopting this route, the trees will be 
visited in the following order : the 
"Three Sisters" on the left, about 120 
yards from the hotel. Next come the 
" Eagle," " Calaveras," " Three Graces," 
"Marble Heart," "Nightingale," "Pio- 
neer's Cabin," " Mother of the Forest," 
and " Father of the Forest." The " Ar- 
bor Vitaj Queen," 335 feet high, said to be 
the loftiest tree in the grove, stands near 
the " Fallen Monarch," and is the object 
of much curiosity. " Hercules," one of 
the most gigantic trees in the forest, 
stands leaning in our path ; this tree, with 
others, has been burned at the base ; it is 
326 feet long and 9*7 feet in circumference. 
A group of seven trees stand around the 
prone body of the " Father of the Forest," 
the two largest of which are respectively 
255 



Mammoth Tree Guove.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Columbia. 



18 and 20 feet diameter and 300 feet high. 
South of " Hercules," about 80 feet, are 
several young trees, from 2 to 4 feet di- 
ameter. N'ear these are two fallen ones, 
of very large size, and apparently for many 
years down. South of " Hercules," about 
200 yards, are the " Mother and Son," and 
near these " General Scott." Crossing a 
small bridge, under which runs the limpid 
little stream that drains the grove, we ob- 
serve on the hill-side the " Old Maid," and, 
120 feet from her, the " Old Bachelor." 
This " Old Maid " is 60 feet around her 
waist and five or sis times as high as the 
tallest Brobdignagian lass mentioned by 
GulUver. We nest come to the " Siamese 
Twins," and a nameless tree standing op- 
posite them, 310 feet high. West of this 
tree is the " Granite State," 18 feet diame- 
ter and 300 feet high. Close at hand is 
a group of three which have not been 
named, nil very large and beautiful trees. 
The "Horseback Ride "we reach next; 
this is an old fallen trunk of 150 feet in 
length, hollowed out by the fires which 
have in days gone by raged through the 
forest ; the cavity is 12 feet in the clear 
in the narrowest place, and a person can 
ride through on horseback a distance of 
'75 feet. Passing onward, we observe sev- 
eral yew-trees ; from this timber the In- 
dians construct their bows, it being ex- 
ceedingly close-grained and elastic. The 
next group embraces " Vermont," the 
" Empire State," " Old Dominion," and 
"Uncle Tom's Cabin." The "George 
Washington" is near these, a tree 21 feet 
in diameter. Twenty feet from it stands 
" The Leaning Tower," and near these 
two, from 30 to 100 feet ofi' the road, are 
several quite young trees. On the west 
side of the road we observe the " Beauty 
of the Forest," a magnificent tree, without 
a blemish in its growth, and 300 feet high. 
Near it stand two young trees about 6 
feet each in diameter-. This brings us to 
the southern verge of the forest in sight 
of the hotel, and with the " Two Senti- 
nels" looming grandly up right before 
us. Ninety-odd mammoth trees are now 
standing. Full twenty of these exceed 
25 feet in diameter at the base, and 
several of them are more than 300 feet 
in height. 

After seeing the Big Trees of Calaveras, 
the tourist should, if possible, visit the 
256 



Naiural Caves and Bridges in the same 
county. These caves are situated on i 
what is called McKinney's Humbug, a 
tributary of the Calaveras River, near 
the mouth of O'Neill's Creek, 14 miles 
west of the Big Trees, 16 miles south of 
Mokelumne Hill, and 9 miles east of San i 
Andreas. The bridges are on Cayote 
Creek, midway between Valicita and i 
McLaue's Ferry, on the Stanislaus River. 
The entire water of Cayote Creek runs 
beneath these bridges. The bold, rocky, 
and precipitous banks of the stream, \ 
both above and below the bridges, pre- : 
sent a counterpart of wild scenery in 
perfect keeping with the strange beauty i 
and picturesque grandeur of their interior : 
formation. 

Colio8sl>ia. — Hotels, Columbia, i 
Mansion House.. 

Returning to Murphy's we take the ! 
stage, via Douglas Flat, crossing the Stan- 
islaus River at Abbey's Ferry, arriving 
at Columbia in 8 miles from Murphy's. 
Columbia' is on the stage line from San 
Andreas to Sonora. Distance from Stock- 
ton, 64 miles, from San Andreas 19 miles. 
The scenery at the crossing of the Stanis- 
laus is grand, and we find Columbia one 
of the largest and finest towns in the 
mining region, having a population of 
some 2,000, with fine brick stores, hotels, 
churches, etc. In the vicinity many large 
mining operations are being carried on, 
which will interest the traveller. Beyond, 
a little over a mile, is the thriving village 
of Springfield, and 2 miles farther lies 
Shaw's Flat, another important point. 
Table Ifountain, also, is well worth a 
visit. Many tunnels are found piercing 
the mountain for thousands of feet. It is 
a formation of basaltic lava, and to the 
geologist its peculiar formation woidd be 
of much interest. 

^ © II o !• a, . — Hotels, Ciit/, Placer, 
United Stales. 

Hourly lines of stages connect Colura- 
bia with Sonora, the county seat of Tuo- 1 
lumne County, distance 7 miles. Sonora, > 
one of the most important raining towusw 
in the southern mines, contaius abouti 
2,700 inhabitants. A fine court-house, i 
several churches, three or four good 
hotels, and many fine stores, adorn the 
place. Daily lines of stages leave and 
arrive from Stockton and Sacramento, 



pLTKRVILLE.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Maeiposa. 



many routes diverging north and 
Ah to way-places. 

poiiltca-ville. — Hotel, Lafayette. 

1^6 will now take the stage for Coulter- 
rb, Mariposa County, passing through 
laestown, 5 miles ; Montezuma, 9 miles ; 
Diaese Camp, 11 miles; crossing the 
fijlumne River at Don Pedro's Bar, 25 
DBS, arriving at Coulterville the same 
ii ; distance from Sonora 40 miles. 
jJlterville is a small mining town, con- 
;aing a few stores, which supply the 
n^rsinthe vicinity. It is on one of 
;h[four routes to the famous Yo-Semite 
P'ley, and has this (as it will pi'ove to 
nlv) strong recommendation, that it can 
jeltravelled the earliest in the season. 
2;'iages, saddle-horses, guides, etc., can 
3e|iad of Messrs. Smith & Scott, pro- 
piitors of the old-estabhshed stables. 



B,OUTE F. 

TATEE MARIPOSA GROVES AND 
TEE YO-SEMITE Y ALLEY. 

a I* i p o s a. — Hotels, GischeVs, 
Fthklin House.-— From. Coulterville we 
iteach Mariposa by mules, crossing the 
Vltjed River, distance 29 miles ; or by 
ctj'ning toward the plains and taking a 
jiriitous route by stage, 50 miles. Ma- 
■ip a, the county seat of Mariposa 
L'o'ty, is 90 miles from Stockton, with 
ivhh it is connected by a daily line of sta- 
jesjihe trip occupying 25 hours. It is the 
nq southerly of all the mining towns of 
mlrtance in the State, and contains 
ihm 1,300 inhabitants. There are valu- 
ibljquartz leads, and rich flat, gulch, and 
biWiggings, in the vicinity. It is here, 
in |e valley of the Mariposa Creek, that 
thaelebrated Fremont Grant is located, 
rhte is a good trail' from Mariposa to 
thejro-Semite Valley, distant 51 miles, 
incjto the Big Trees, 31 miles. J. R. 
Me|eady will supplj' good livery. 

'^pile in this neighborhood, the traveller 
shold not omit to visit the Mariposa Grove. 
rhfeh not so well known nor so famous 
IS le Calaveras Grove, it nevertheless 
forii! one of the great natural wonders 
of t| State, and will amply repay the time 
iniflabor of reaching it. It is distant 
fronMariposa 31 miles, and from Stock- 



ton 121 miles. The group of trees em- 
brace about 600, covering between 200 
and 300 acres of land, and lie in a trian- 
gular form. They were first discovered 
in August, 1855. The South and Fresno 
Groves, the latter 6 to 8 miles distant from 
the Mariposa Grove, are also worth visit- 
ing if the tourist has time. 

mie "^©"Semtite "Valley. 

Innumerable lessons to relate 
And myriad voices rushing to baptize 
These chosen lips, which send into the skies 
Their oracles, to awe and elevate. 

The world's chief mouth-piece is this marvellous 
gate, 
That lavish nature wholly sanctifies ' 
With majesty and beauty. Here raj eyes 

Some revelation seem to penetrate — 

For God, begetting mysteries from the first, 
All-glorified, stood down upon the rock. 
And smiting through, the curious earth was 
riven — 

A thousand silver arteries were burst — 

The mountains staggered from the fearful 

shock — 
Her heart lay bare to the soft eyes of Heaven. 

Routes, Distances, etc. — The princi- 
pal starting-point to the To-Semite Valley, 
as already stated, is Stockton. Thence there 
are four main routes, viz. : via Big Oak 
Flat, Coulterville, Bear Valley, and Mari- 
posa. That by Big Oak Flat is the shortest 
and affords a view of the Golden Rock 
Water Co.'s flume, 264 feet high, and 
2,200 feet long. That via Coulterville can 
be travelled the earhest in the season, and 
has the beautifully unique " Bower Cave " 
on the way. That by Bear Valley and Mari- 
posa aflbrds the earhest opportunity of 
visiting the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, 
and gives the best general view of the 
valley. There is yet another route, indi- 
rectly — tiiat via Copperopolis to tbe Cala- 
veras Big Tree Grove. Going via Big Oak 
Flat, you change stages at Chinese Camp ; 
via Coulterville, change at the Crimea 
Hoase. 

From Stockton, via Big Oak Flat : 

Miles. 

Copperopolis* , .30 

Chinese Camp 15 

Jacksonville 4 

Big Oak Flat '.'.'.'.'.'. 8 

Sprague's Ranch 9^ 

Golden Hock Flume 8J 

* Parties bound for the Calaveras Bis: Trees, 
take the Murphy's stage at Coppciopolis. 
257 



The To-Semite.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[The Yo-Semite. 



Hardin's Eanch T 

Crane Creek (>} 

Pividintr Kidge 41- 

Tamarack Flat S 

Top of Mountain 3 

Foot of Mountain (Yo-SemitL') 2-J 

Forks of Trail, near Ferry 4i 

Hutchings's li 

Total lOS 

Murphy's 20 

Bis Trees 15 

Murphy's to Sonora 14 

Chinese Camp 10-J- 

Big Oak Flat 12 

Chinese Camp to Coulterville, via Crimea 
House 2T 

From Stockton, via Coulterville. 

Knight's Ferry 36 

Crimea House 12 

Don Pedro's Bar 9 

Coulterville 14 

Bower Cave 12 

Black's , 5 

Deer Flat 6 

Hazel Green 6 

Crane Flat 6 

Junction of Big Oak Flat Trail 2i 

Tamarack Flat 3 

Hutchuigs's llj 

Total 122 

Prom Stockton, via Bear Yalley and Ma- 
riposa. 

Morley's (Tuolumne Eiver) 45 

Snellings 12 

Hornitos 12 

Bear Valley 9 

Mariposa 12 

"White & Hatch's J2 

Clark's Eanch (South Fork Merced) 18 

To Mariposa Big Trees, 6 miles. 

Alder Creek 6i 

Empire Camp S 

"Westfall's Cabin 3i 

Inspiration Point 5 

Foot of Trail 3 

Hutchings's 5 

Total 141 

Procuring animals at Coulterville for the 
trip, and providing ourselves with blankets 
and provisions, we start for the Yo-Semite. 
Four days are needed to do the trip com- 
fortably and profitably. At a distance of 
12 miles is Bower Cave, a singular, grotto- 
like formation, that lures the traveller 
aside for a few moments. Passing on to 
Deer Flat, 23 miles from Coulterville, we 
camp for the night. The next day we 
reach Crane Flat, 12 miles farther, in time 
258 



for an early lunch. Here the snow-clad 
Sierras begin to rise in serrated peaks 
above the horizon. To the right, about 
2 miles distant, is a grove of mammoth 
oak-trees, similar to those in Calaveras 
County, but fewer in number. One of 
these, consisting of two joined at their 
base, is called the Siamese Twins, and is 
114 feet in circumference. Two houi-s 
will bring us to Inspiration Point, 9 
miles beyond, whence we first look down 
into the wonderful cleft of the Sier- 
ras called the Yo-Semite. Descending 
into the valley, it is 7 miles to the foot of 
the trail, and 6 miles thence to "Hutch- 
ings's." After resting here overnight, we 
will inspect the wonders of the valley. 
The Yo-Semite vaUey is between Y and 8 
miles long, rarely exceeding a mile in 
width, walled in by perpendicular rocksi 
from 3,000 to 5,000 feet high on either' 
hand. The Merced Eiver, which winds i 
through the grassy meadows at the bottom 
of the valley, receives several tributaries, 
which pour over these granite walls at vari- 
ous points, forming waterfalls on a magnifi- 
cent scale. The most remarkable of these 
has been called the Yo-Semite Fall. It de- 
scends in two unbroken sheets, the uppei 
one 1,600 feet in height, and the lower one 
600 feet, while the rapids between the tw( 
have a fall of 434 feet, giving the tota 
height 2,634 feet. Among the other fall: 
are the Fall of the North Fork of thi 
Merced, about 750 feet high ; the Pi-wy 
ack, or Vernal FaU, about 300 feet higli 
the Yo-wi-ye, or Nevada Fall, about 70( 
feet high ; and numerous others of lesse 
note. Not the least remarkable object 
of interest are the two domes, presentin 
nearly perpendicular faces on opposit 
sidesof the valley. The North Dome, o 
To-coy-ee, is about 3,'725 feet high. Th 
South Dome, or Tis-sa-ack, is 6,000 fee' 
the lower two-thirds of which is a shec 
perpendicular rock, so that a stone tosse 
from its top would fall at its base. _T1 
volume of water pouring over the varioi . 
falls varies according to the season of tli 
year, being quite inconsiderable intl, 
month of September ; uid one or two litt 
lakes gem the vaUey. As much ciuiosi 
is felt among travellers to learn the ])r ; 
cise height of these mountains and watc 
falls, I "append the following table, cat . 
fully compiled from official sources : i 



N Jose.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[San Jose. 



TABLE OF ALTITUDES IJ\r YO-SEMITE VALLEY. 

WATERFAILS. 

Height 
Indian name. Signification. American name. aJjove valley. 

D-ho-no Spirit of the evil wind Bridal Veil 940 feet. 

Iing-oo-too-koo-ya .The tall and slender fall The RibbonFall. . 3,300 feet. 

b-Semite Large grizzly bear 2,634 feet. 

(First fall, 1,600 feet ; second fall, 434 feet ; third fall, 600 feet.) 

wy-ack Cataract of Diamonds Vernal 350 feet. 

b-wi-ye Meandering , Nevada '700 feet. 

Uool-we-ack South Canon 600 feet. 

MOUNTAINS. 

i-sa-ack Goddess of the Valley South Dome 6,000 feet. 

Cloud's Rest 6,450 feet. 

-coy-ee Shade to Indian Baby-basket. .North Dome 3,725 feet. 

!lih-ta Martyr Mountain ,.. . .Cap of Liberty, . .4,600 feet. 

le-wah-lam Mt. Starr King. . .5,600 feet. 

; -na-ting Law-oo-too . . Bear-skin Mountain Glacier Rock 3,700 feet. 

'.-toch-ah nu-lah Great Chief of the Valley.. El Capitan 3,300 feet. 

■ ah-wah-le-na Three Graces 3,750 feet. 

]|jim-pom-pa-sus Mountains playing leap-frog. . . .Three Brothers. . .4,200 feet. 

" o-see-nah Chuck-ka. .Large acorn cache Cathedral Rock. . .2,400 feet. 

Sentinel Dome 4,000 feet. 

]}ya SentmelRock 3,270 feet. 



Che best general view of this unrivalled 
ley is to be had from Inspiration Point 
the Mariposa trail, 8 miles from 
VtcJiings's. 



MOUTE VI, 

FRANCISCO TO SAST JOSE AND 
THE ALMADEN MINES. 

IFrom San Francisco southward, the 
tfveller has choice of railway or steam- 
lit travel to San Jose. The following 
a the stations on the railway line : 
1 ?sion, 3i miles ; Bernal, 4|- miles ; 
£ 1 Miguel, 6J miles ; San Bruno, 14J 
E es ; San Mateo, 20| miles ; Belmont, 
'Jirailes ; Redwood City, 28 miles ; May- 
f d, 34^ miles ; Mountain View, 4d| 
r es ; Santa Clara 46^ miles ; San Jose, 
fiimiles. 

San Jose. — Hotel, the Auserais 
J^iise. 

1 daily line of steamers runs to Alviso, 
siated on a slough at the southern ex- 
t:jnity of the bay, and there connects by 
Bges with San Jose, 7 miles distant. 



This is a delightful trip in the summer 
season. From Oakland, opposite San 
Francisco, a stage runs to San Jose, via 
San Lorenzo, 12 miles; and Warm 
Springs, 30 miles. 

San Jose, the garden city of California, 
is situated in the midst of a very fertile 
valley. It is the third city of the State, 
contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and 
has some fine public buildings and many 
elegant private residences. Besides the' 
beauty of the valley of San Jose and its 
climate of perpetual spring, its gardens 
and Artesian wells, many places in the vi- 
cinity are worthy of a visit, especially the 
Quicksilver Mines, and the Missions of 
Santa Clara and San Joso. The New 
Almaden mines ai-e about 12 miles 
south, and Monterey, on the coast, 
126 miles. The new Court-Hoiose is a 
handsome, commodious structure just 
completed. It is the largest public build- 
ing of its kind in the State. The Con- 
vent and Seminary of Notre Dame, and 
the Cathedral, the College, University, and 
schools in the adjoining village of Santa 
Clara, are well worth visiting. San Jos6 
and Santa Clara are connected by stage 
269 



ViSALIA.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Los Angeles. 



Avith Santa Cruz (35 miles); Lexington 
and San Juan (42 miles) ; Monterey (80 
miles). 

From San Jose southward we can 
select between the route, via Hot Springs 
and Santa Barbara to Los Angeles, or 
that to Visalia. Proceeding on our jour- 
ney by the latter, we emerge from the 
valley of the Santa Clara River through 
the Facheco Pass in the Coast Range, 
into the valley of the San Joaquin. 
Travelling iip the western side of the 
valley, we first touch the river at Fire- 
baum's Ferry, 165 miles from San Fran- 
cisco. Continuing on the same side we 
pass the great bend of the San Joaquin, 
and soon I'each Fresno City, 182 miles 
from San Francisco. Crossing the little 
stream which seems to connect Tulare 
Lake with the San Joaquin, we cross 
King's River, 40 miles beyond, and soon 
arrive at Visalia 248 miles from San 
Francisco, and 192 miles from San Jose. 
"^■^ i s ss, 1 i a . — Hotels, Exchange, 
Warren's. — This is the only town of much 
importance between San Jose and Los 
Angeles on the Overland Route, and 
contains about 1,200 inhabitants. It is 
located on the banks of the Kaweah 
River, about IS miles from the mountains 
on the east, and 20 from Tulare Lake on 
the west, in the centre of a large body of 
oak timber, and in the midst of a rich 
alluvial delta. The several creeks north 
and south of Visalia in its immediate 
vicinity, spread out on the large meadows 
and lose themselves and their channels 
beibre reaching the great Tulare Lake, 
which ordinarily has no well-defined out- 
let itself. The Coso silver mines lie 
about 100 miles east, and are reached by 
a trail over the Sierra Nevada Mountains. 
Stage Hues to Hornitas (120 miles), via 
Millertou's and Mariposa Creek. 

Proceeding southward, we cross Tule 
River, 27 miles ; Kern River, 8*7 miles ; 
arriving at Tejon Carion, 128 miles from 
Visalia, and 376 from San Francisco. 

S^ort "Tejoii. — Tejon Pass is at 
the head of the San Joaquin Valley. 
The Coast Range and Sieri-a Nevada, 
gradually converging, join at this point. 
A fort has been built high up in this ro- 
mantic pass, about 3,000 feet above the 
level of the sea, where there is a small 
spot of level land between the mountains, 
260 



with fertile soil, grass, a pleasant brook, 
and fine oak-trees. 

From Tejon Canon we descend into 
and cross the arid plains of Palm Valley, 
part of the Great Basin, whose waters 
never find the sea. Then our road lies 
over the Coast Range, through the San 
Francisquito Canon which ojjens into 
Santa Clara Valley, and crossing the 
Santa Clara River, our way lies through 
the San Fernando Pass, over a spur of 
the Coast Range, whence we emerge into 
the vine-clad valley of the Rio Los An- 1 
geles, and in afefv hours reach the "City i 
of the Angels," 491 miles from San Fran- 
cisco, or via- Hot Springs, San Luis 
Obispo, and Santa Barbara, 472 miles. 

luos Aiag-cles. — Hotels, Bella 
Union, La Fayclte. — Los Angeles is 
situated near the foot of the Coast Range, 
on the Los Angeles River. Mostofthei 
land in the valley which can be irrigated 
is planted with vines. The city contains ' 
about 5,000 inhabitants. The houses are 
many of them of the Spanish style, one 
story, with flat roofs covered with asphal- • 
tum, which abounds in the vicinity. On 
the northwestern side of the town, and 
very near the busiest part of it, is a hill I 
about 60 feet high, whence an excellentr 
view of the whole jjlace may be obtained. 
Along the banks of the river for railcs' 
are situated the vineyai'ds and orange- 
groves, the pride of Los Angeles. Vast 
tracts of the fertile plains and rivei' bottoms 
are irrigated by the waters of the river, 
producing every variety of fruit and vege- 
table common to the warm and temper-] 
ate climes. In the months of Marchi 
and April, looking over these fertiki 
plains, covered with the richest verdure 
the snow-clad heights beyond contrasi 
beautifully Avith the flowers at their feet . 
To the east. Mount San Bernardino rise; 
covered with snow, 80 miles distant. It; 
altitude is about 8,000 feet, and it marki 
the site of the pleasant valley in whiul; i 
the village of San Bernardino is situated ; 
Silver lodes of more or less promise bavn 
been discovered in various parts of tb 
neighboring mountains. A rich tin niinn^ 
has been discovered at Temescal, abou 
60 miles distant, on the Overland Route ,• 
The San Gabriel placer gold mines li 
about 20 miles to the northeast. Th 
sites of several old missions are in L& 



Diego.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Santa Barbara. 



ijgeles County. From Los Angeles 

ti're are several stage lines, affording 

cpmunication with all tovrns on the 

Ast and in the interior. The principal 

c'these are the overland line, via Tucson 

ail Prescott, to St. Louis, Mo. ; the San 

Rgo line, via San Luis Eey (93 miles), to 

Sii Diego (130 miles) ; San Bernardino 

Ik, via Cocamongo, to San Bernardino (65 

njes) ; the San Pedro line (daily), via Los 

Cprvos (11 miles), to San Pedro (26 miles); 

ail the Clear Creek line, via San Fer- 

n|ido (31i miles), to the mines, Havilah 

Cjlj' (140 miles). The route from Los 

Aceles to Prescott and Central Arizona 

iay way of San Bernardino and Hardv- 

yje; distance, 430 miles. The entire 

djanco from San Francisco to St. Louis, 

b|the Ovei'land Mail Route through Los 

!;eles, is 2,880 miles, the last 353 of 

ch is performed by raOroad. The 

ance is usually accomplished in 22 to 

lays. The traveller can obtain meals 

at vay-stations, which occur from 15 to 

miles apart. He rides night and 

without cessation, soon getting used 

he motion of the stage so that he 

get refreshing sleep at night, and 

ves well and hearty at his journey's 

The distance from Los Angeles 

t. Louis is 2,390 miles, divided as 

ws : 



Tc" 



From Los Angeles 

Miles. Miles 

ort Tuma 288 

ucson 281 .569 

11 Paso 839 908 

|ort Chadbourne 428 1,386 

ed Kiver 381 1,720 

■rt Smith 192 1,912 

,. Louis -..4T8 2,390 

om Los Angeles a pleasant journey 
;be made to San Diego in two days, 
ng out for Anaheim, 30 miles, we 
3I along the coast, passing through 
Juan Capistrano, 60 miles ; San Luis 
Re 93 ; San Dieginto, 105 ; arriving at 
Sa Diego, 130 miles from Los Angeles. 

an. ]> i c g' O . — Hotel, Franklin 
Hue. — San Diego is a small town of 500 
inl jitants, situated upon a harbor of the 
salt name. San Diego harbor, next to 
tlKof San Francisco, is the best on the 
coit of California, being well protected, 
cajcious, and having a fine depth of 
war. There is nothing remarkable 
ib(t the town 01 



surrounding scenery. 



A fine grazing country lies back of it, 
abounding in large cattle-ranches. San 
Diego is connected with San Francisco by 
an ocean steamer, which makes two trips 
a month, touching at the intermediate 
ports of San Pedro, the ports of Los An- 
geles, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, 
and Monterey, and sometimes Santa 
Cruz. Should the traveller prefer to 
return to San Francisco by land, he will 
find the route along the shore very 
pleasant, full of beautiful and romantic 
scenery ; the mountains of the Coast 
Range and its spurs rising loftily on his 
right, and at times the waves of the sea 
dashing at his feet. In proceeding north- 
ward then, the first point of interest is 
Santa Barbara, about 180 miles from 
San Diego by water, and 100 from Los 
Angeles by land. 

^smta lSaB-l>ara. — ^Hotel, City 
Hotel. — The steamers afford a fine view of 
the coast, as they pass near the land ; 
and approaching Santa Barbara, the 
view is very imposing. High I'anges of 
mountains bound the view to the east- 
ward, while the beautiful valley in which 
the town is situated, stretches far to the 
northward, finely relieved by a back- 
ground of misty mountains, grand in out- 
line. This place, with the other ports 
along the coast, is famous for the hide 
business, formerly the staple product of 
California. Santa Barbara has no pro- 
tected harbor like San Pedro, and other 
places along the coast ; it is only an open 
roadstead, dangerous during a southeast- 
er, which, however, occurs only during 
the rainy season. This town, hke Mon- 
terey and the other old places in Califor- 
nia, retains much of its old Spanish look 
— the buildings, of adobes or sun-dried 
bricks, roofed with tiles, presenting a 
venerable appearance. A ride to the 
Missimi of Santa Barbara, about three 
miles distant, is reiJlete with interest. The 
climate below Point Conception (which 
lies between Monterey and Santa Bar- 
bara) is quite mild, the northwest winds 
winds which prevail in the vicinity of San 
Francisco not being felt in this latitude. 
Continuing on our way iip the coast, we 
touch the shore 110 miles above Santa 
Barbara, for the benefit of those who 
wish to go to San Luis Obispo, the county 
scat of San Luis Obispo County, and a 
261 



Santa Cruz.] 



CALIFOENIA. 



1 

[PoiHXitiai 



small, unimportant Spanish town, in the 
midst of a beautiful grazing country. 

Moiitei'ey, — Hotel, Washington. 
The large open bay of Monterey lies about 
120 miles north of San Luis Obispo, and 
78 south of San Francisco by water. The 
town of Monterey is beautifully situated 
upon the southern extremity of this bay. 
It was formerly the seat of government, 
and principal port on the coast of Cali- 
fornia. But since the rise of San Fran- 
cisco, its commerce and business have 
dwindled away, and now it is one of the 
most quiet places in the State, contain- 
ing about 1,500 inhabitants. The view 
of the town from the anchorage is very 
fine, especially if visited iu the months 
of April or May. The green slopes upon 
which the town is built, contrast beauti- 
fully with the forest of pines vi^hich grow 
upon the ridges beyond. The Eocky 
Bluffs afford fine views. 

Saiifta CtniK, — Hotel, JExcliange, 
It is 20 miles across the bay from Mon- 
terey to Santa Cruz, the county seat of 
Santa Cruz County. The town contains 
about 800 inhabitants, and is surrounded 
by a mouutainous country covered with 
immense forests of redwood timber. The 
Mission Church is an object of interest. 
The bluff and beach afford pleasant 
walks or drives. The distance from 
Santa Cruz to San Francisco by water is 
about 70 miles. To San Jose and Santa 
Clara — delightful watering-places — cross- 
ing the Santa Cruz Mountains, via Sali- 
nas, Natividad, and San Juan, the dis- 
tance is 80 miles. 



JROUTE VII. 

SAN FBANOISCO UP THE COAST. 

Steamers leave San Francisco semi- 
monthly for Oregon, Washington Terri- 
tory, and Victoria, in the British posses- 
sions, touching at Mendocino, Humboldt 
Bay, Trinidad, Crescent City, Port Oxford, 
Portland, and sometimes Vancouver, on 
the Columbia River, and various points on 
Puget Sound, and Victoria on Vancouver's 
Island. Sailing vessels are also constant- 
ly leaving San Francisco for Humboldt 
Bay, Port Oxford, the Columbia Eiver, 
Puget Sound, and Vancouver's Island. 



Many of the northern mines near the 
coast are easily accessible from HuinboKlt 
Bay, Trinidad, Crescent Citv, and Port 
Oxford in Oregon, the gold range ap- 
proaching the coast. Coal is also found 
in immense beds in the vicinity of Coosa 
Bay, Oregon. Embarking on one of tiie 
California Steam Navigation or California 
and Oregon Steamship Company's lines for 
a trip up the coast, we touch at Mendoci- 
no, or pass it, 180 miles from San Fran- 
cisco ; Hiunboldt Bay, upon which the 
thriving towns of Eureka and Areata arc 
situated, 230 miles ; arriving at Crescent < 
City, some 300 miles from San Francisco. % 

Ci°escemt City. — Hotels, Patching 
House, American. — Crescent City, the 
county seat of Del Norte County, is &■ 
thriving place of some 600 inhabitants, t 
Most of the interior mining localities' 
through a considerable range of country « 
obtain their supplies through this post. 
Extensive veins of copper have been dis- 
covered in the vicinity, some of whicl: 
hare been worked with profit. The sur 
rounding region also abounds in gold am; 
other minerals, but for want of systeraalii 
supplies of water have not yet been mucl; 
worked. 

Proceeding north we touch at Port Ox 
ford (70 miles), a port from which mucl 
lumber is exported ; Fort Umpqua (14( 
miles), near the mouth of Umpqua River 
which di-ains a fertile and productive vallev 
and arrive at Astoria on the Columbii 
River, some 300 miles north of Cresccu 
City, and about 600 miles north of Sai 
Francisco. The scenery of the Columbii 
Eiver is wild and grand beyond descrif 
tion. Vessels of the largest size proceci 
up the river from Astoria, at the moutl 
to Vancouver, a distance of about 10 
miles, and beyond to the falls of the rive- 
where the Cascade Eange of mountain 
cross. Some of the mountain peaks o 
the Cascade Eange, among which may I 
mentioned Mount Hood, Mount Jeft>npi, 
and Mount St. Helms, rival those of ill 
Andes. They are covered with perpetun 
snow, and can be seen from various par | 
of the river. 

Portland, the chief city of Oregon, - 
situated on the Willamette Eiver, nei t^ 
its confluence with the Columbia, ai 
contains about 8,000 inhabitants. Tl 
Willamette Eiver, flowing north betffci 



Iget Sotjnp.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Victoria 



t'fe Coast and Cascade Ranges of moun- 
liiis, empties into the Columbia about 
lb miles from the ocean. The valley 
(the Willamette is the garden of Ore- 
m, and contains a large population of 
jl-manent settlers, many of whom had 
l|lated on farms some time before the 
^Jtlement of California by Americans 
cbmenced. A month's travel to the 
*ious places and points of interest on 
tl Columbia would amply repay the 
tirist, and can be made from San Fran- 
cpo at an expense of from 150 to 200 
cjllars, including the fare each way. 
(pr continuation of the route, see chap- 
tfe on Oregon and Washington.) 

iPnget Sound. — Proceeding up 
t| coast we find no other seaport till we 
rich Puget Sound, one of the most mag- 
Bicent harbors in the world. While the 
sind is so deep that vessels of the 
Liviest burden can traverse any part 
o|t with safety, it is nowhere too deep 
fl convenient anchorage ; and in many 
pjces vessels can ride boldly up to the 
s re for purposes of loading, without 
t' intervention of wharves. The lumber 
fijn some of the saw-mills on the sound 
it hipped in this way. Puget Sound is 
rijched by a daily line of steamers from 
pi'tland, Oregon, to Monticello, Wash- 
iiton, situated on the Cowlitz River, 2 
nes above its mouth, thence by stage 
tcjOlympia twice a week. Entire dis- 
tijce from Portland to Olympia, 92 miles. 
F|m Olympia the route is continued tri- 
wlkly, to Victoria, Vancouver's Island, 
bpteamer (New World), which touches 
aihe principal landings on the sound. 
Ariculture and the manufacture of lum- 
bj form the leading interests of this 
r(|on. Four thrifty towns have sprung 
upn different inlets of the sound, viz. : 
Itt 7'ownsend, with 500 inhabitants and 
tllCustom-House ; Olympia, with 1,000 
imlntants, the capital of Washington 
Tffitcry, situated in the vicinity of the 
siprb water-power of Tum-water ; Steila- 
ccM, with 800 inhabitants ; and Seattle, 
5(| are the termini of trails and mili- 
tai roads leading through the Cascade 
Rijge to the mineral regions beyond. 
mdbi/s Island, at the entrance of the 
soid, contains many fine farms, and its 
int bluffs, rising boldly from the 

ipr's edge, are very beautiful in spring 



and summer. Several majestic mountain 
peaks are visible from the waters of the 
sound, forming some of the most sublime 
scenes on the western coast of America. 
Among these are Mount Baker, Mount 
St. Helens, and Mount Rainier, whose 
summits are from 12,000 to 15,000 feet 
above the level of the sea, and covered 
with perpetual snow. Some of these 
have shown volcanic action within the 
last few years. Mount BaTcer, 14,000 
feet high, was in active eruption in 1860. 
From Port Townsend the traveller can 
reach the mouth of the Columbia, or in- 
deed Sacramento in California, without 
returning by the ocean route. Proceed- 
ing by steamer to the head of the sound 
at Olympia, or by stage on the west side 
of the sound to the same point, he can 
proceed from thence through the Cowlitz 
farms to Vancouver on the Columbia 
River. Vancouver, the present capital, 
is one of the most promising places in 
Washington Territory, containing about 
1,000 inhabitants besides the soldiers of 
the United States military post stationed 
near. The distance from Vancouver to 
Portland is 18 miles, and the entire dis- 
tance from Port Townsend to Portland is 
about 230 miles. From Portland the 
daily overland mail to Sacramento takes 
the traveller up the valley of the Willa- 
mette, across IJmpqua and Rogue Rivers 
to Jacksonville, and thence through 
Treka, Shasta, and Marysville to Sacra- 
mento, 642 miles from Portland, making 
the longest stage route in the Union, 
with the exception of those across the 
continent between California and the Mis- 
souri River. The eastern slope of the 
Cascade Range in Washington Territory, 
though but partially developed, gives 
indications of great mineral wealth. 
The Wenatchee, Samilkameen, and Rock 
Creek gold regions, have attracted many 
adventurers, and yielded their treasures 
bountifully. From Steilacoom a military 
wagon-road leads through a pass in the 
Cascade Range to Walla-Walla, 250 miles 
southeast on the Columbia River. Be- 
yond Walla-Walla lies the Nez Perces 
gold region. 

Victoria, on Vancouver Island, the 
principal town of the British posses- 
sions, contains about 8,000 inh.abitants. 
It is the entrepot of goods for Frascr 
263 



KOUTES.] 



CALIFORNIA. 



[Routes. 



River. The gold diggings of the latter 
are still being successt'ully worked. New 
Westminster, the capital of British Co- 
lumbia, and next to Victoria the largest 
town in tlie British dominions on the 
Pacific, is situated on Fraser River, near 
the head of navigation. The mines and 
inhabitants are protected from the depre- 
dations of Indians by the presence of 
soldiers at Fort Hope, Fort Yale, etc. 
(See chapters on Oregon and Washing- 
ton Territory.) 



8TJMMAKT OF EOTJTES FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO 

MilcB. 

Mendocino 128 

Eureka 225 

Trinidad 240 

Crescent City 280 

Port Oxford 340 

Fort Umpqua 400 

Astoria 558 

Portland 642 

Vancouver 682 

Victoria 753 

Port Townsend 773 

Seattle 810 

Steilacoom 836 

Olympia 855 

Santa Cruz SO 

Monterey 92 

San Luis Obispo 200 

Santa Barbara 2S8 

San Pedro 373 

Los Angeles 895 

San Diego 456 

San Quentin 15 

Petaluma 48 

Healdsburg J 32 

Geysers (50 

Sonoma 45 

Vallejo 25 

Napa. . , 50 

Sulphur Springs 18 

Suistin 60 

Benicia 80 

Sacramento 120 

Stockton 120 

Alviso 45 

San Jos6 52 

Santa Clara 54 

Kedwood City 30 

Visalia 248 

Fort Tejon 876 

Los Angeles 491 

Fort Yuma 779 

Tucson 1060 

Mesilla 1353 

El Paso 1399 

Monterey 180 

Oakland 8 

SUMMARY OF ROUTES FROM STOCKTON TO 

Miles. 

Mokelumne Hill 50 

San Andreas 45 

Murpliy's 60 

Big Trees 81 

264 



Knight's Ferry 86 

Soiiora |>i 

Columbia eg 

Coulterville 85 

Yo-Semite 180 

Mariposa 91 

SUMMARY OF ROUTES PROM SACRAMENTO TO 

Mila. 
Marysville ) iM a 

Colusa 120 f 

Eed Bluff 275 

Nevada 70 j 

Auburn 40 ' 

Folsom 22 

Alabaster Cave 86 

PLacerville 50 

Lake Tahoe 110 

Carson City 145 

Virginia City. 163 

Jackson 60 

Mokelumne Hill. 55 

Sonora 80 

Stockton 45 

Napa 61 

SUMMARY OP ROUTES FROM MARYSVILLE TO 

MUei. 

Oroville 28 

Eed Bluff 92 

Shasta 12S 

Yreka 236 

Downie ville 76 

Nevada 40 

Auburn 40 

Colusa 28 

All the nmnerous mining towns in the i 
counties of Calaveras, Tuolumne, Stanis-i 
laus, Merced, Mariposa, etc., can be reach-- 
ed by one or other of tlie above routes, or 
by lines of coaches in connection with the 
abore, departing and arriving with excel- 
lent dispatch. As times of departure 
and arrival, kinds of conveyance and fares, 
however, are subject to frequent change,i 
it will always be advisable for the travel- 
ler to consult local authorities on these 
points. 

RAILROADS. 

Miles, 

Central Pacific — Sacramento to Cisco 93 

Sacramento Valley — Sacramento to Fol- 
som 22i 

Placermlle and Sacramento Valley — Fol- 
som to Shingle Springs 26 

California Central — Folsom to Lincoln. . . 21 

Yuba — Lincoln to 16 

Northern California — Marysville to Oro- 
ville ^ 26 

San Francisco and San Jose — San Fran- 
cisco to San Jose 50 ' 

Western Pacific— San Jos6 to Alameda Ca- 
non 20 , 

San Francisco and Alameda — Encinal to 

Hnyward's 1* 

Napa YnUeii — Suscol to Napa * 

6>«/lZ««c?— Oakland Point to San Antonio.. 6 



REGON.] 



OREGON. 



[Oregon. 



OEEGOlsr. 



Oregon was organized as a Territory 
igust 16, 1848, and was admitted into 
3 Union as a State, February 16, 1859. 
lies upon the Pacific, north of Califor- 
i, and contains an area of 95,2'7-± square 
les. The first visit of the white race to 
egon was in l'7'7o, wlien a Spanish voy- 
eur entered the Juan del Fuca Straits. 
ree years afterwatd (^vS), the cele- 
ited navigator. Captain Cook, sailed 
ng its shores. la 1791 the waters of 
tj! Columbia River were discovered by 
(ptain Gray, of Boston. An expedition, 
c exploring party, was sent out in the 
j,r 1804 by the United States, com- 
cjnded by Lewis and Clark, who wintered 
iiH805-'6 at the mouth of the Columbia. 
Bim that period the coast has been the 
r ort of both English and American fur- 
ti icrs. By the treaty concluded with Great 
I tain in 1846, this great territory, which 
b . up to that time been jointly occupied 
b English and American adventurers, was 
ded — the one taking the portion above 
parallel of 49° north latitude, and the 
obr all the country south of that line. 

Imigration to Oregon was earnestly 

Cdmenced in 1839, the first settlers 

sing through the South Pass into 

V lamette Valley. For some years the 

scjlement of the country was retarded by 

more brilliant attractions of Califor- 

though the ultimate result of this 

;hborship will be to stimulate develop- 

t. 

/'ashington Territory, on the north, 
a part of Oregon until the year 1853, 
'n it was erected into a distinct govern- 
t. 

he coast of Oregon, viewed from 
thisea, is, like that of California, stern 
I'ockbound, except tJiat while in the . 
12 



latter region the nearer mountains follow 
the line of the shore, in Oregon they ap- 
proach the ocean at a great angle. The 
lower or Pacific country occupies an area. 
of from Yo to 120 miles wide, in which lie 
the great valleys of Willamette, Umpqua, 
and Rogue Rivers. Though the valley 
lands of the Willamette and the adjacent 
regions are extremely fertile, yet the 
greater portion of Oregon is not well 
adapted for tillage. Nature here assumes 
its sublimest forms, and the scenery is 
among the grandest to be found on the 
entire continent. Heavy rains usually 
prevail in December, January, and Febru- 
ary, at which season the roads are well- 
nigh impassable. The climate here, as 
on all the Pacific coast, is milder than 
in corresponding latitudes near the At- 
lantic. The winters are comparatively 
brief, and the snows, when snow falls 
at all, are very light. Oregon is prolific 
in grain, grass, fruit, and timber. Gold is 
found in various parts of southern Oregon, 
and silver, lead, and copper in the Cas- 
cade Mountains. Coal is abundant at 
Coose Bay and other points. Iron is to 
be had in abundance within a few miles 
of Portland. (See Routes.) 

Rivers. — Tlie Colum'bia. 
Kiver, of Oregon, is the greatest on the 
Pacific slope of this continent. It rises 
in a small lake among the western accliv- 
ities of the Rocky Mountains, and flows in 
a devious course 1,200 miles to the Pa- 
cific, forming a great portion of the divid- 
ing line between Oregon and Washington 
Territory on the north. Its first meander- 
ings are northward along the base of its 
great hill ranges, and afterward its course 
is due west to the sea, though very capri- 
ciously. It is a rapid river, pushing its 
265 



Willamette Vallky.] 



OREGON. 



[Mount Hood 



way through mighty mountain passes, and 
in many a cataract of marvellous beauty. 
In its course through the Cascade Range, 
it falls into a series of charming rapids, 
which may be numbered among the chief 
natural attractions of the country. The 
tide sets up to this point, 140 miles. 
For 30 or 40 miles from its mouth, the 
Columbia spreads out into a chain of bay- 
like expansions, from 4 to V miles or more 
in width. Its average width is less than 
a mile. The shores are lined with grand 
mountain heights, making the landscape 
everywhere extremely interesting and 
impressive. We should far exceed our 
present opportunity in attempting even 
the briefest catalogue of the pictures on 
these noble waters. Vessels of 200 or 
300 tons' burden may ascend to the foot 
of the cascades, of which we have already 
spoken. Above this point the river is 
navigable for small vessels only, and but 
at intervals in its course. 

Tlie ^Tillasiiette ISiver flows 
from the foot of the Cascade Range, 200 
miles, first northwest, and then north to 
the Columbia, 8 miles below Fort Van- 
couver. Its way is through the beautiful 
valley lands which bear its name, and 
upon its banks are Oregon City, Portland, 
Corvallis, Eugene City, and other thriving 
places. Ocean steamers ascend 15 miles 
to Portland. Ten miles beyond this 
point, a series of fine falls occur in the 
passage of the river, above which the 
waters are again navigable, perhaps 60 
miles, for small steamboats. The Falls 
of the Willamette is a famous place for 
the capture of the finest salmon. Among 
the tributaries of the Willamette are the 
Tualatin, Yamhill, La Creole, Luckamute, 
Long Tom, and Mary Rivers, coming from 
the base of the Callapoosa and Coast 
Range Mountains, and the McKenzie, 
Santiam, Pudding, and Clackamus from 
the Cascade Range. 

Tlie Valley of tlae "'PSrilla- 
Maette is a most fertile region, and very 
attractive in its natural curiosities. It 
is 50 miles by 100 in extent, and sub- 
sists nearly one-half of the entire popula- 
tion of the State. Many remarkable 
insta,nces are to be found here of those 
eccentric mountain formations known as 
Beetlers — huge, conical, insulated hills. 
Near the mouth of the Coupe Rivei", there 
266 



are two of these heights, which lower u[ 
1,000 feet, but half a mile removed fron 
each other at their base. They are calle 
Pkgah and Sinai. They stand in tli( 
midst of a plain of many miles in extent 
At a point near the Riekreall River, in tin 
Willamette Valley, no less than sevfi 
snow-capped peaks of the Cascade Rangi 
may be seen. 

Tlie Cascade Raug-e include; 
some of the loftiest mountain peaks it 
the United States, among which arc Moun 
Hood, Mount Jefferson, and Mount PittI 
The fii'st of this grand trio has a volcani( 
crest 14,000 feet above the level of tlii 
sea.* Between the Blue Mountains am 
the Cascade Range lie a number of smal 
lakes. 

The view from the summit of Moue 
Hood is thus described by a recent visili 
or: "From south to north," he says-: 
"its whole line is at once under th 
eye from Diamond Peak to Ranier, • 
distance of not less than 400 mile:, 
Within that distance are Mounts St. He 
en. Baker, Jefferson, and the Three Sii 
ters, making, with Mount Hood, eifrl 
snowy mountains. Eastward the Bin 
Mountains are indistinct view for at lea; 
500 hundred miles in length, and lyinl 
between us and them are the broad plait- 
of the Des Chutes, John Day's, and Xiw: 
tilla Rivers, 150 miles in width. On tl 
west, the piny crests of the Cascades ci 
clear against the sky, with the Willamct 
Valley sleeping in quiet beauty at tlic 
feet. The broad belt of the Columb 
winds gracefully through the evergrw, 
valley toward the ocean. Within the: 
wide hmits is every variety of mounta 
and valley, lake and prairie, bold beetlit 
precipices, and graceful rounded sumrai! 
blending and melting away into eai 
other, forming a picture of unutterab 
magnificence. On its northern sicl 
Mt. Hood is nearly vertical for 7,000 fee 
there the snows of winter accumula 
until they reach the very summit, bi, 
when the summer thaw commences, r 
this vast body of snow becomes disin 



* The folloT\ing altitudes were computed 
Professor Wood, in a recent survey and expl 
ation : "At the summit of the Cascade Kan I 
and foot of Mount Hood proper, 4,400 feet ; ' 
the limit of forest trees, about 9,000 feet ; at ' 
highest limit of vefretation, 11,000 feet; at ' 
summit of the mountain, 17,000 feet. 



iRTLAND.] 



OREGON. 



[Dalles City. 



ated at OBce, and, in a sweeping ava- 
iche, carrying all before it, buries itself 
tbe deep furrows at its base, and leaves 

|e precipice bare." 

fl-'orest Xi-ees. — Oregon, like Cal- 

ijjrnia, is famous for its wonderful forest 

|owth. The Lambert pine, a species of. 

1^ sometimes reaches, in the lower part 
the country, the magnificent height of 

;!0 feet. 

PORTLAND. 

Hotels, Arriggoitih^ What Cheer, Lin- 

n, Western, and New Columbian. 

(Portland, the largest and most impor- 
ijit town in Oregon, is pleasantly lo- 
(|;ed upon the west bank of the Willa- 
ikte River, at the head of ship naviga- 
tn, 15 miles from its entrance into the 
(llumbia, and about 111 miles from the 
c;an. The distance to San Francisco 
I land is 642, and by water 652 miles. 

The city stands on a plateau, which 
g dually increases in height as it recedes 
f m the river, until it forms a range of 
t s at the western extremity of the city. 
I)m the summit of this range a fine 
v w is obtained of Mounts Hood, Jeffer- 
s I, and St. Helen, of the Cascade Range 
a I the windings of the Columbia and Wil- 
liiette Rivers. The city is the centre of a 
li\ie and prosperous trade with the State 
e t of the Cascade Range, Mount Hood, 
a I the adjoining Territories of Wash- 
iiton and Idaho. It was founded in 
1 :5, by Messrs. Pettigrew and Lovejoy. 
1i former was from Portland, Maine, 
a ;r which the place is named. It con- 
t;is between 1,200 and 1,300 buildings, 
at a population of nearly '7,000. The 
^tc Penitentiary and the Presbyterian 
a I Catholic Clmrclies are commodious edi- 
fi s. The Portland Library Association 
h its rooms at 66 First Street. Twenty 
ri ir steamers ply between Portland and 
tl various towns on the Willamette and 
C umbia Rivers. The principal lines are 
tV^e to Eugene City (200 miles), Jeffer- 
S( (166 miles), Scio Landing (122 miles), 
ail to the Dalles (115 miles). Stages daily 
tcjSacramento, California, distant 642 
icps. 

l daily line of steamers (0. S. N. Co.) 
le^es Portland for the Lower Cascades 
oihe Columbia (65 miles), passing Cape 
~ n and Castle Rock ; thence by rail 



five miles to the Upper Cascades, whence 
the traveller can again take boat on the 
river for the Dalles. In the language of 
an old resident of the valley, "No pen' 
can do justice to the imposing grandeur 
and subhmity of the scenery presented 
in the passage through the Cascade 
Mountains." 

Seniles City^ or " The Dalles," is 
a thriving town of 2,000 inhabitants, on 
the south bank of the Colum.bia, 120 
miles east of Portland. A railway, 15 
miles long, connects it with Celilo, on the 
Columbia. The river at the Dalles is con- 
fined between basaltic cliffs in a channel 
less than 100 yards wide. A fine view 
of Mount Hood is here obtained. 

From Celilo eastward the tourist may 
profitably pursue his trip to Umatilla (97 
miles), Wallula (110 miles), Walla- Walla 
(140 miles), and Lewiston, Idaho (223 
miles). Umatilla may befaiily regarded as 
tbe head of certain navigation on the Co- 
lumbia. Hence, and from Wallula, daily 
stages run over the Blue Mountains to 
Boise and towns in Idaho. (See Sum- 
mary OP DISTANCES, etC.) 

St. Helen stands upon a rocky 
blufl" on the west side of the Columbia, 
30 miles from Portland. The I'iver is 
here a mile wide, and forms a fine harbor. 

©reg-OM City. — Hotel, United 
Stales. — Oregon City, the former capital 
of the Territory, is upon the Willamette, 
hidden in a narrow, high-walled valley or 
caiion. Falls on the I'iver at this point 
afibrd fine manufacturing facilities to the 
growing settlement. The manufacture 
of blankets and cloths is extensively car- 
ried on. 

Salem. — Hotels, Bennett House, 
Marion Hotel. — Salem, the capital of 
Oregon, is on the Willamette River, 50 
miles above Oregon City. Population, 
2,000. 

Astoria, named in honor of its 
founder, John Jacob Astor, is on the 
south side of the Columbia River, some 
10 miles from its mouth. This was at 
one time an important fur-depot. 

ROUTES, DISTANCES, ETG. 

Miles. 

Portland to Lower (^ascados, 65 

Across Portage 5 

Upi)er Cascades to Dalles , 45 

115 
26V 



EOUTES.] 



OREGON. 



[Routes. 



Boats run daily : 

Miles- 
Dalles to Celllo 15 

Celilo to Wallula 110 

Wallula to "Walla- Walla 30 



Boats run 3 times a week ; 



loO 



Dalles to TTmatilla Ill 

Walla- Walla to Lewist.m 83 

Stages run 3 times a week: 

Lewiston to Florence 120 

Lewiston to Elk City 142 

Lewiston to Oro Fino S3 



CANOX CITY TO DALLES : 

Miles. 

■Wallhasan's Eanch 17 

South Fork 17 

Eock Creek 17 

Mountain House 9 

Alkali Flat 14 

Muddy ■ . 22 

Antelope Valley 16 

Buck Hollow 15 

Hav.stack 12 

Cold Sprincc 10 

Dixon's Bridge 15 

Dalles 13 



Stages run 3 times a week. 
208 



177 



WALLA-WALLA TO PLACEHVILLE : 

{Boise 3fine8.) 

Walla-Walla to W. W. Eiver jj} 

Liukton's Mill 9 

Mountain House Jj 

Phillips ]8 

Willow Creek ]j 

Hendershott's jg 

Uniontown f, 

Pyles 1; 

Quigley's ]2 

Bouldock's i;j 

Illinois ](! 

E.xpress Eanch ]2 

Stout and Moody's ]4 

Miller's 10 

Olds's Ferry £ 

Weiser Eiver 15 

Galena 20 

Payeito Eanch 1.5 

Burners' 15 

Schaeffer's 12 

Placerville 1« 

Placerville to Centreville i\ 

Placerville to Idaho City la 

Placerville to Pioneer City. S 

Idaho City to Boise City 3i 

Boise City to Owyhee K 

Boise f'it'y to South Boise 8.' 

Idaho City (by trail; to South Boise. Si 

Sta^'es run regularly to all the above-namec: 
places, except South Boise. 



SASH. TeRRITORT.] 



WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 



[Olympia. 



WASHIKGTOIsr TEEEITOEY. 



Washington Territory, until recently 

part of Oregon, occupies the extreme 

I'thwest corner of the domain of the 

1 ited States. Its greatest extent is 

jut 600 miles from east to west and 

3 from north to south. On the north, 

is separated from British America by 

Straits of Juan del Fuca. The Rocky 

untains lie on its eastern boundary, 

(jbgon ou the south, and the Pacific 

(ban on the west. 14ie general appear- 

e of this region is very similar to tliat 

Oregon — traversed, as both countries 

by the same mountain ranges and 

:'s. The Columbia traverses the Ter- 

iry, dividing it into unequal parts and 

uating it from Oregon on the south. 

lunt Olvmpus, the chief peak here of 

tl Coast Range, is 8,197 feet high, 

ered, like most of the summits of the 

ion, with perpetual snows. Mount 

S Helen, one of the spurs of the Cas- 

01 e Range, has an elevation of 12,000 

ft , ; and Mount Rainier, on the same 

clin, rises 13,000 feet. Mounts Adams 

ail Baker are other grand peaks of tlie 

Cicade Rnnge. This Range, which 

ci !ses the Territory from north to south 

li miles from the coast, is a continua- 

ti of the SieiTa Nevada. It is from 

4( to 60 miles wide at its base, and 

hi an average elevation of 6,000 feet. 

8i rs of the Rocky Mountains are seat- 

ted through the eastern portion of 

thj Territory. The chief source of 

with to the people of Oregon at pres- 

er[is in the utilization of their immense 

Ibt^ts of fir, and spruce, and cedar, 

thigh by and by, as the land becomes 

clired, it can l)e made productive by 

agcultural industry, especially in tlie 

cuire of grass and raising of live-stock. 



The mammoth trees of California and Ore- 
gon are found also in this region. The 
wilds of Washington Territory abound in 
elk, deer, and other game. Wild fowl, 
also, of many varieties, are plentiful ; and 
in no part of the world are there finer 
fish than may be caught here. The 
rivers of Washington are rapid mountain 
streams, replete with picturesque beauty 
in bold rocky cliffs and precipices, and in 
charming cascades. 

The readiest route to Washington from 
Oregon, which should be first visited, is 
by steamer down the Willamette and 
Columbia Rivers, 50 miles, and up the 
Cowlitz, two miles, to Monticello. Thence 
stage-wagons, twice a week, perform the 
service — not always a very agreeable 
one — of transporting the traveller to 
Olympia, 40 miles. Between Monticello 
and Oljinpia are seen some of the grand- 
est woods on the continent. Here, in the 
words of a late traveller in that region, 
is the forest primeval, thick witli slender 
pine, fir, hemlock, spruce, cedar, and 
arbor vitse, the trunks gloved in moss of 
orange-green, the branches hung with 
brown Spanish moss, the ground white, 
yellow, and purple, with luxuriant flowers. 

Olympia., the capital of Washing- 
ton Territory, stands on the east side of 
Tenalquct's River, at its entrance into 
Puget's Sound, in the extreme western 
or Pacific section, esteemed as the best 
part of the country. The other prin- 
cip.ll towns and settlements of this Ter- 
ritory are Nesqually, Steilacoom, Seat- 
tle, Port Townsend, New York, and New 
Dungeness, on Puget's Sound and Ad- 
miralty Inlet ; Pacific City, Catalamet, 
Fort Vancouver, Monticello, and Cascade 
City, on the Columbia River ; Wabassport 
269 



PuGET Sound.] 



WASniNGTON TERRITORY. 



[ Vicioiiu 



and Cowlitz Farms, on the Cowlitz Riv- 
er ; and Penn's Cove, on Whidby's Isl- 
and. 

The easiest and most comfortable way 
to see the different towns and points of 
interest in the Territory is to take steam- 
er (Xew World) from Portland down Pu- 
get's Sound. This is one of the loveliest 
sheets of water on the continent. It has 
1,400 miles of navigation, and is bounded 
by solemn pine forests sentinelled by snow- 
capped mountain peaks. Hundreds of 
islands dot its shining surface, while 
its clear depths are almost transparent. 
The mountain views from the sound 
will engross the tourist's attention. 
Lumber constitutes the basis of trade 
and business carried on at the dif- 
ferent towns and villages on these wa- 
ters. The trade in this article exceeds 
a million dollars annually. Every town 
has its saw-mill, some of them of large 
size and capacity. Fish and coal are 
also large ly obtained and exported. The 
Indians on Whidby's Island and in the 
neighborhood of Seattle will attract the 
traveller's attention. They belong to the 
Skagit tribe. 

270 



From the north end of Puget Sount 
the traveller can cross the Straits of Fuc, 
and visit the Britis'n possessions upoi 
Vancouver Island. 

The population of the island is betwee' 
7,000 and 8,000, four-fifths of which resirli 
in the pleasant, prosperous little city oi 
Victoria. 

The climate of Vancouver is similar t^ 
that of New York, though it is mud 
farther north. Delicious fruits and flow 
ers grow in abundance. 

Victoria, the capital of the Britisl 
Colony of Vancouver Island is situate: 
on the southeast end of that island. I 
was originally the depot of the Hudsoi 
Bay Company, and came into prominenc 
and population during the Frazer Rive 
excitement. It is well built, of bricli 
and stone, and wears a cheerful, attractiv 
appeiirance. The Government House axu 
the Governor''s Mansion are worth visit" 
ing. Population 5,000. Here our joui 
ney northward through Oregon and Wasli 
ington tercTiinates, and we return to Olym 
pia, Portland, or San Francisco, as ou 
future movements eastward may best dt 
termine. 



UZONA.J 



ARIZONA. 



[PfiESCOTT. 



A E I Z O ^ A 



inizoNA was organized as a Territory 

Iiruary 24, 1863. Its area is estimated 

the 120,912 square miles. It is formed 

f m a portion of the old Territory of 

t|W Mexico, and is bounded on the south 

Texas and Souora ; on the west by the 

(|orado River and California, and on the 

th by Utah and Nevada. It is about 

^ miles long, with an average width of 

miles. The Commissioner of the 

eral Land-Office, in his report to Con- 

Iss in December, 1863, says of this 

[ion, that it " is believed to be stocked 

h mineral wealth beyond that of any 

er Territory of equal extent in the 

at plateau between the Rocky Moun- 

s and the Sierra Nevada." The coun- 

east of the Rio Grande is a great plain 

ken only b}' the Sacramento and Gua- 

ipe Mountains. The population is 

nly confined to the towns along the 

s. The climate, except on the lower 

and the Colorado, is delicious. Snow 

lorn falls, and never lies long. The 

ly season extends from June to Sep- 

iber, inclusive. The mineral resources 

the Territory are considerable, and 

iing districts and towns are to be 

id through the interior of tlie region. 

! principal route to the Territory is 

t by the overland stage from Wilming- 

and Los Angeles, via San Bernardino, 

t(jLa Paz, 204 miles, and Prescott, 445 

(Sec Routes.) Freight can be 

bped by sailing vessels from San Fi'an- 

ciio to Point Isabel, at the mouth of the 

^jrado, and thence by steamer. The 

rado is the only navigable stream in 

zona. The Territory is divided into 



4) 



fcl- counties, Pima, Yuma, Mojave, and 
j^pai. 
[•rcscott, the capital of the Terri- 



tory, and the seat of justice for Yavapai 
County, is pleasantly situated among the 
Pine Mountains, 150 miles east of the 
Colorado, and 450 miles south of Salt 
Lake City. It is the centre of an exten- 
sive gold and silver mining district. The 
first house was built, June, 1864. Popu- 
lation estimated at 600. 

Other towns, with a mixed population of 
Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans, are 
scattered through the interior of the Ter- 
ritory. The principal are Tucson and 
Tubac in Pima; La Paz, Castle Dome, 
Mineral City, and Olive City, in Yuma ; 
Mojave City, Hardy ville, in Mojave Coun- 
ty; and Prescott, Weaver, and Wicken- 
berg, in Yavapai County. 

Among the leading objects of interest 
to be found in the Territory are extensive 
ruins of cities, aqueducts, etc., the re- 
mains of early Spanish settlements in 
Yavapai County, near the Rio Verde and 
Rio Salinas. 

Routes.— The following are the princi- 
pal routes to, from, and through Arizona, 
viz. : 

Prom Wilmington, Cal., via San Ber- 
nardino, to La Paz, 264 miles ; to Pres- 
cott, 445 miles. 

From Fort Whipple (Prescott), to 
Santa Fe, 523 miles. 

From La Paz to Bill Williams's Fork, 
G5 miles. 

From La Paz to Castle Dome, 63 miles. 

From La Paz to Weaver, 128 miles. 

From Wilmington to Hardy ville, 310 
miles. 

From Hardy ville to Prescott, 161 miles. 

From San Diego, Cal., to Fort Yum|L, 
239 miles. 

From Fort Yuma to Wickenburg, 1*77 
271 



EOUTES.l 



ARIZONA. 



IKOOTKS. 



miles ; Weaver and Prescott, 246 miles, 
via north side of Gila Kivcr. 

From Fort Goodwin to Las Cruces, N. 
M., 203^ miles. 

From Fort Yuma, via Pimos Villages, 
424 miles ; Tucson, 6(52 miles ; Fort Bowie, 
183 miles ; Fort Cummings, 31G miles ; to 
Santa Fe, 918 miles. 

From Tucson to Mesilla, N. M., 263 
miles. 

From Prescott to Fort Goodwin, 2361 
miles. 

272 



From Tucson to La Libertad (Gulf of 
Gal.), 227 miles. 

From Pimos Villages to Prescott, 144 i 
miles. 

Travellers through Arizona, desiroas to ^ 
visit New Mexico, will find the stage route 
from Fort Whipple to Santa Fe, or the t 
wagon routes from Tucson to Mesilla, and 
from Fort Goodwin to Las Graces, the 
most desirable. The distance by the 
former is 523 miles, by the two latter, i 
263 miles. 



|w Mexico.] 



NEW MEXICO. 



[Santa Fe. 



KEW MEXICO 



[Jew Mexico is a portion of the Ter- 
ry ceded to the United States by the 
itj with Mexico of 1848 aud of 1854. 
.as organized as a Territory, September 
850. Its area is at present (as re- 
ed by the subsequent fomiatiou of 
■ Territories), 121,201 square miles. 
? bounded on tlie nortli by Utah and 
>rado, on the east by Texas aud the 
ian Territory, south by Texas aud 
[luahua, and west by Arizona and 
California. Like the adjacent 
ct. otry, it is a region of high table-lauds, 
CI sed by mountain ranges, aud barren 
to he last degree. In the eastern part 
oil his Territorj' are the valleys of the 
E Grande, aud its tributary waters 
silting the base of various chains of the 
Kiky Mountain*, as the Sierra Madre 
ra ;e, the Jumanes, and the Del Cabello. 
Jiiid Tai/lor, among the Sierra Madre, 
is id to rise 10,000 feet above the valley 
of le Eio Graude, which is itself a table- 
la' of many thousand feet elevation. 
Viable mineral deposits — ^gold, silver, 
adi other metals — exist in New Mexico, 
th igh the resources of the mines have 
ncjyet been very much developed. New 
M|ico is full of wonderful natural curios- 
iti and beauties, though but a few of 
its lauy surprising scenes have been yet 
ored. Immense canons exist among 
nountains of the Sierra Nevada ; deep 
les, where rivers flow in darkness 
hujlreds of feet down below the surface 
ic valleys. Red aud white sandstone 
is, too, abound ; grand and lofty pcr- 
pelicular precipices of rocks, wearing 
ty varying semblance of cliff-lodged 
e aud fortress. The principal rivers 
the Rio Graude, Pecos, Salinas, and 
Puerco. Waterfalls of surpassing 



th 



beauty are scattered through the mountain 
fastnesses. The Cascade Grotto is de- 
scribed as a series of falls, which, coming 
from a mineral spring in the hills, leap 
from cliff to cliff, a thousand feet down to 
the Gila below. A wonderful cavern, in 
which are some curious petrifactions, may 
be entered beneath the first of these cas- 
cades. Two marvellous falls have been 
discovered in the Rio Virgen, one of 
which, 200 miles from its mouth, has a 
perpendicular descent of 1,000 feet. The 
present iuhabitants of New Mexico con- 
sist chiefly of domesticated nomad Indians, 
with a sprinkling of Mexicans and Amer- 
icans. Immigration from the States has 
not yet tui-ued much in this direction. 
The ruins of the ancient pueblos, which 
are scattered throughout the Territory, 
are well worthy inspection. The most 
noteworthy are the Pueblos Pintado, We- 
gi-gi, Uua-Vida, Huugo Paire, Penasca, 
Blauca, aud Taos. New Mexico is divided 
into ten counties. 

Ssxuta. Fe. — Santa Fe is the capital 
of the Territory. It is situated on the 
Rio Chicito, or the Santa Fe River, 20 
miles from its entrance into the Rio 
Grande. It is the great depot of the 
overland trade, which has been carried on 
for 30 or 40 years past with Missouri. 
The town is built on a plateau elevated 
'7,000 feet above the level of the sea, and 
surrounded by snow-capped mountains, 
5,000 feet yet higher. The people are 
but a miserable set, aud their home rec- 
ommends itself to the stranger scarcely 
more tlian they do themselves. The 
houses here, as elsewhere in the region, 
are built of dark adobes or sun-dried 
bricks. Each building usually forms a 
square, in the interior of which is a court, 
213 



New Mexico.] 



NEW MEXICO. 



[New Mexico, 



upon which all the apartments open. The 
only entrance is made of sufficient size to 
admit animals with their burdens. 

The other principal settlements are Albu- 
querque, Mesilla, Valencia, Las Vegas, and 
Tuckelata. 

KOtTTE FKOSI INDEPENDENCE CITY, MO., TO SAN- 
TA FE. 

Miles. Miles. 

From Independence City to the Kansas 

boundary 2^ „ 

ToLoneElm ' f:> 

•' Koimd Grove » °:l 

" The Narrows ^^ ^'^ 

" Blackjack % P^ 

" One -hundred Creek ^i lU" 

." Switzler's Creek 9 1 ' j 

" DrasoonCreek •••• f. ^^* 

Several creeks are then crossed, after wuicti 

To Biij John Spring 8* 14S 

'' Council trrove • ■•■ 

" Kaw Village and Placeto,in Council 

2 
6 



149 



G-rove 

" Sylvan Camp, in Council Grove 

" Willow Spring 

«' Diamond Spring J^o J- 'it 

" Lost Sprin<^ -^^ 

» Cottonwood' Forli "of Grand River.. 12 199 

"TurkeyCreek 29 22S 

" Mud Creek 19 247 

" Little Arkansas '^ -^^ 

" Cow Creek 20 270 

"PlumButtes 1* ^2^ 

" Great Bend of the Arkansas i ^^^ 

The trail then ascends the northern bank of 
the Arkansas Eiver for 130 miles. 

To Walnut Creek 7 293 

" Pawnee Eock 14 307 

" Ash Creek " °^"^ 

« Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas 6 819 

"Coon Creek •• 33 3o2 

" Caches 36 388 

" Old Fort Mann I* 40i 

" Fort Sumner 4 400 

" Ford of the Arkansas 10 41t) 

" Jornado to Sand Creek 49 4bo 

» Lower Spring, on the Cimarron 11 47b 

" Middle Spring, on the Cimarron.... 37 513 



" Willow Bar. 



543 



" Upper Spring, on the Cimarron IT 560 

274 



Milea. m\f 

To Cold Sprinsrs 6 5i)( 

" McNee's Creek 26 W: 

" Eabbit-eiir 19 Oil 

" Hound Mound 8 611 

" Eock Creek 13 65; 

" Point of Eooks 17 611 

" Eio Colorado 20 6»it 

" Ocate 7 CTi 

" Wagon Mound 19 Bi''' 

" Santa Clara Spring 2 (U\ 

" Fort Barclay, on Kio Mora 22 71S 

" Las Vegas, on Eio Gallinas 19 7:J- 

"NaturalGate 6 7+J 

" Ojo de Bernal H J'* 

" San Miguel 8 7i>_ 

" Pecos Euins 24 7n 

" Santa Fe 25 i>\: 

Routes. — From Santa Fe, via Font 
Larned (555 miles), to Kansas City, J' 
843 miles. 

From Santa Fe, via Fort Craig {Yi% 
miles), and Las Cruces (278 miles), t(i 
Denver, Col., 431 miles. To Franklin. 
Texas, the distance is 327 miles. 

From Mesilla to Chihuahua, Mexico; 
282 miles. 

From Santa Fe to Fort. Sumner, 18 
miles ; via Taos (85 miles), to Fort Gari 
land, 190 miles. 

From Fort Bascom to Fort Sumnei ^ 
81 miles. 

From Fort Bascom to Fort Union, 12' 
miles. 

From Fort Union to Fort Sumner, U 
miles. 

From Fort Union to Fort Stanton, 2i 
miles. 

From Albuquerque, via Perdinales (7 
miles), to Bosque Redonda, 168 miles. 

From Fort Sumner to Fort Stantoi 
125 miles. 

From Santa Fe to Fort Stanton, 19 
miles. 



m 



j ;VADA.J 



NEVADA. 



[Nevada 



NEVADA. 



vTetada forms the weKtern side of the 

glat basin enclosed by the Rocky Moun- 

t(|i3 on the east and tlie Sierra Nevada 

rige on the west ; the average elevation of 

itlH'alleys being at least 5,000 feet above 

water, while very little of it is as low as 

}0 feet. It is bounded on the north 

Oregon and Idaho, on the south and 

t by California, and on the east by 

h, and embraces an area of upward of 

'-three millions of acres. It has few 

nd waters. The Humboldt, Walker, 

Carson Rivers and Lakes are the most 

irlortant. Lakes Tahoe and Donner, 

C stal and Pyramid Lakes, near its west- 

eijboundary, are well worth visiting. 

he history of Nevada dates from a 
v* recent period. It was organized into 
erritory, March 2, 1861, up to which 
! it formed part of tlie adjoining Ter- 
ry of Utah. It was admitted into the 
n hi October, 1864. It is divided 
11 covmties, and contains a popula- 
variously estimated at from 40,000 to 
6(|)00. It is divided into two main geo- 
hical divisions known as Western and 



em Nevada. Of the former, popular- 
nowii as " Washoe," Virginia is the 
cipal town; of the latter, Austin, 
on City is the capital. Star City, 



Hbboldt, Silver City, Unionville, Dayton, 
Aiora, and Belmont, are smaller towns 

centres of mining districts, scattered 
thiugh the State. 

lie State of Nevada abounds in rich 
sties of mineral wealth, including gold, 
siltr, quicksilver, lead, antimony, and 
otljr precious metals. The finest silver 
dcfsits in the United States are said to ex- 
jsti Storey County, in this State ; and the 
bH r mines of Lander County are reported 
to ive increased the population there sev- 



eral thousands during the lapse of a single 
year. The mining region of Nevada is de- 
scribed as an elevated semi-desert country ; 
its surface a constant succession of longi- 
tudinal mountain ranges, with intervening 
valleys and plains, most of which are in- 
dependent basins, hemmed in by moun- 
tains on all sides, and the whole system 
without drainage to the sea. 

Routes. — Virginia City, via Silver City 
[o^ miles). Empire City (13 miles), to Car- 
son (16 miles); stage twice daily. 

Virginia to Dayton (8 miles) ; daily. 

Virginia, via Opliir (11 miles), to Wa- 
shoe (14 miles) ; daily. 

Virginia, t/ia IBuftalo Springs (132 mil.), 
to Star City (161 miles); tri-weekl}^ 

Star City, via Owyhee (159 miles). Ruby 
City (245 miles), Boise (306 miles), to 
Idaho City (342 miles) ; weekly. 

Dayton, via Empire City (11 miles), to 
Carson (14 miles); daily. 

Washoe City, via Ophir (3 miles), to 
Carson (14 miles) ; daily. 

Carson to Aurora (10*7 miles) ; tri- 
weekly. 

Aurora to Brodie (10 miles) ; daily. 

'^'"irg'iiaiii. — Hotel, the Interna- 
tional. — Virginia, the chief city of the 
Territory, and the most important town 
on the overland line between Salt Lake 
City and Sacramento, is situated on the 
eastern slope of Mount Davidson, 291 
miles northeast of San Francisco, and 
572 miles v/est of Salt Lake City. It 
stands at an elevation of 6,200 feet above 
the sea level, and owes its foundation and 
much of its growth to the discovery and 
working of the ftvmous Comstock silver 
lode, which underlies a great portion of 
the city. This lode has already yielded 
275 



Carson Citst.] 



NEVADA. 



[AnsTis 



nearly sixty millions of dollars since its 
discovery in June, 1859. The mines 
constitute the great " sight " of the place. 
The "Savage" and "Gould & Carry" 
mines are the best worth visiting. Appli- 
cation for permission should be made to 
the resident superintendents at the works. 
Among the public buildings and objects 
of interest are the Court-House, on B 
Street, the Episcopal, Catholic, and Pres- 
byterian churches, the BctJik of Califor- 
nia, and the express and banking house 
of Wells, Fargo & Co. Mount Davidnon, 
1,500 feet high, commands fine views. 
Virginia City, with Gold Hill, which ad- 
joins it, contains a population of about 
15,000. The streets are well paved and 
lighted with gas. The Territorial Enter- 
prise and News are published daily. 

The stages of the Overland ilail^Wells, 
Fargo & Go's.) leave Virginia City daily 
for Austin, Salt Lake City, and Sacra- 
mento, and all points east and west. 

Hot Springs are found within a few 
miles of Virginia, accessible by stage, 
and delightfid for bathing. 

Cai'son City, the capital of the 
State, is situated in a pleasant valley at 
the foot of the east slope of the Sierra 
Nevada range, 4 miles west of Carson 
River, and 16 miles southwest of Virginia. 
It was founded in 1858. The views of 
the mountain ranges are fine. Popula- 
tion, 2,500. The Court-Home, State Pris- 
on, and United Stales Hint are among the 
principal buildings. The St. Charles is 
the leading hotel. 

The other principal towns and settle- 
ments in Nevada are Waslioe Citij, Ophir, 
Silver City, Star Citt/, Unionville, Hum- 
boldt, Datj^on, Genoa, and Aurora. 

Hot Spriaag's*, 1 mile from Car- 
son, on the road to Virginia, and Wal- 
lefs Warm Sprinc/s, 2 miles south of 
Genoa, should be visited. The Steamboat 
Springs, 3 miles south of Washoe City, are 
276 



also worth seeing. The road from Carson 
westward to California commands some 
magnificent views. From the foot of the 
Sierras it winds among deep green valleys 
and huge granite hills studded with giant 
pine-trees. 

5^£ilce Talaoe, 13 miles from Car- 
son, IS one of the most lovely resorts in 
the United States. It is thus described 
by a lata writer: "Among the clouds, i 
one mile above the sea, this shining mir- 
ror lies for 20 miles, fringed with sombre 
pines and walled in by dark mountains. 
Though at some points 1,500 feet deep, 
it is almost as transparent as the air, 
distinctly revealing the bottom throtish 
100 feet of water. In summer the little 
steamer Governor Blaisdell plies upon it 
for the pleasure-seekers who board at the 
Glen Brook House and the Lake House. 
It is the highest water on the globe navi- , 
gated by steamboat. The State line be- 
tween CaUfornia and Nevada crosses the \ 
lake." 

Aflistin, the chief city of Eastern 
Nevada, and the centre of the famous 
Reese River mining district, is situated 
at the head of Pony CaQon, 185 miles 
east of Virginia and SSY miles west of 
Salt Lake City. The young city stands 
at an elevation of 6,000 feet above the 
sea level, and commands from the upper 
end of the caiion fine views of the vallevs 
to the west and east. The first discovery 
of silver here was made in July, 1862. 
The yield since has been very consider- 
able, and the population now numbers 
4,000. The ifanhattan and Empire mines 
and mills are well worth visiting, as arc 
also the Belmont, Paliranagat, and other* 
mining districts, which ai'c readily reached 
by stage. Austin has one or two good 
cliurch edifices and two banks. The 
Reveille, published daily, contains the 
latest raining news from the Reese River 
district. Hotel, MolUnelli. 




I'AH.] 



UTAH. 



[Utah. 



UTAH. 



Jtah formerly extended some 700 
cs from east to west, and 34'7 miles 
m north to south ; but this vast region 
5 been p;reatly reduced by the recent 
ui.itioa of Nevada and the adjacent 
kitories. Its present area is 109,600 
slare miles ; its population about 
1 1,000. It is bounded on the north by 
llho, east by Colorado, south by Ari- 
zla, and west by Nevada. It is a coun- 
ti of elevated, sterile table-lands, divided 
iiluuequal parts by the Sierra Madre 
Mmtains. Tlie Great Basin, or Fie- 
npt's Basin, as it is sometimes called, 
ebnds over the western part, 500 miles 
filu east to west, and 850 from nortli to 
s(jth. This vast tract lies at an eleva- 
til of nearly 5,000 feet above the level 
o|ie sea. Some portion of it is covered 
bja yielding mass, composed of sand, 
sol, and clay, and others with a crust of 
aljiline and saline substance. Great 
hi; surround it on all sides, and de- 
taied groups cross its whole area. Near 
tt centre it is travei'sed by the Hum- 
be It Eiver Moimtains, which rise from 
5,\o to '7,000 feet above the adjacent 
c( itry. Tliere are other great valley 
stitches in Utah, more sterile even than 
th| Great Basin, as that lying between 
thjRocky and the Wahsatch Mountains. 
Oi[' a small portion of this wide region 
caj be turned to account for agricultural 
pvposes. The little fertile land it pos- 
sess is that which skirts the streams 
anl narrow tracts at the base of the 
ni jutain ranges. The most productive 
pdion proljably is that of the valleys 



nding north and south, west of 

Wahsatch Mountains, and which is 

jpied by the Mormon settlements. 

TMse settlements are 96 in number. Of 



the entire population upward of 10,000 
are farmers who cultivate 140,000 acres 
of land. The Territory produces about 
half a million sacks of flour annually. 

Utah is historically knovra as a Mormon 
colony. This extraordinary people pitch- 
ed their tents here in 1847, after they 
were driven out of Illinois and Missouri. 
They are the sole occupants of the region, 
excepting a few Gentiles and the native 
Indian tribes. They seem to be a pros- 
perous and increasing community ; for 
an enumeration of their numbers, made 
in 1863, exhibited a population of over 
83,000, exclusive of the Indians. The 
first settlements were made in July, 1847, 
and it was organized as a Territory, Sep- 
tember 9, 1850. The navigation of the 
Colorado River for 600 miles from its 
mouth to Callville, Arizona, has opened 
a new era for Utah'. The Pacific and 
Colorado Steam Navigation Company has 
been organized, and will add much to the 
growth and prosperity of the Territority. 

The climate of Utah is said to resemble 
that of the great Tartar plains of Asia, 
the days in summer-time being hot and 
the nights cool. The winters are mild in 
the valleys, and except in the mountain 
ranges, but little snow falls. There snow 
falls deep, and the thermometer ranges 
from zero to 30° below for days and even 
weeks together. The temperature is 
liable to great and quick transitions from 
the changing currents of the winds. 

The Crreat Salt tialce is per- 
haps the most remarkable of all the many 
natural wonders of the Territory. This 
singularbodyof water lies northeast of the 
centre of the Territory, and 20 miles west 
of the City of the Sa'ints. It is over 100 
miles long and 35 wide. It is so highly im- 
277 



Lakes, etc.] 



UTAH. 



[Salt L.vke Ciir, 



pregnated with salt tlmt no life is found 
in it, and a thick saline incrustation is 
deposited upon its hanks by evaporation 
in hot weather; and vet all its ti-ibutaiy 
vraters are fresh. In some of its features, 
as in tlie wild and weird aspect of much 
of the surrounding scenery, it has been 
compared to the Dead Sea of Palestine. 
It is 4,000 feet above the sea level, and 
contains seven islands. 

Utali. iialce is a body of fresh 
water 35 miles in length. It lies south 
of the Great Salt Lake, to which it is 
tributary, by the channel of the connect- 
ing river, called the Jordan. Like its 
sahne neighbor, the Utah Lake is elevated 
4,000 feet above the level of the sea. It 
is abundantly suppUed \^'ith fine trout 
and other fish. 

"Pyi-aiul*! Hiake lies on the slope 
of the Sierra Xevada Mountains, YOO feet 
yet above the Great Salt Lake. It is en- 
closed -everywhere by giant rocky preci- 
pices, which rise vertically to the sublime 
height of 3,000 feet. Froni the bosom 
of the translucent waters of this wonder- 
ful lake there springs a strange pyramidal 
rock 600 feet in air. In the interior of 
the Territory there are other smaller 
ponds, as XicoUet Lake near the cen- 
tre, and '70 miles yet southward. Lake 
Ashley. Mud, Pyramid, Walker's, and 
Carson's Lakes are near the eastern base 
of the Sierra Xevada Mountains ; Hum- 
boldt's Lake, formed by the waters of 
Humboldt River, is about 50 miles east 
of P\Tamid Luke. (See Nevada.) 

Caiaojis, — Xear Brown's Hole, in 
the vicinity of Green Kiver, there are many 
of those singular ravines of the Great 
West, known as canons. They are sudden 
depressions in the surface of the earth, 
sometimes of a vertical depth of 1,500 
feet. Nothing can be more surprising and 
more grand than the pictures presented 
in these strange passages ; the effect, too, 
is always heightened by the unexpected 
manner hi which the traveller comes 
upon them, as no previous intimation is 
afforded, by the topography of the land, 
of their proximity. 

EocTES. — Salt Lake City, via Eagan 
Canon (269 miles), to Ruby Valley (311 
miles) ; daily. 

Salt Lake City, via Fort Bridger to 
North Platte Station (596 miles). 
2'78 



Salt Lake City, via Pleasant Grove (36 
miles), Provo (43 miles), to Payson (62 
miles) ; semi-weekly. 

Payson, via Nephi (26 miles), to Fill- 
more (77 miles) ; semi-weekly. 

Fillmore, via Parowan (95 miles), to 
Cedar City (113 miles); weekly. 

Cedar City, via Santa Clara (64 miles), 
to Callville, Arizona, head of navigation 
on Colorado River (100 miles); weekly. 
Callville is 410 miles from Salt LakeCitv 
and 600 miles frOm the Gulf of Mexico." 

Springville, via Mount Pleasant (48 
miles), to Gunnison (88 miles);, semi- 
weekly. 

Salt Creek, via Moroni (20 mOes), tc 
Manti (40 mUes) ; daUy. 

^a^reat Salt t-altc City, th( 
capital of Utah, and the largest cid 
on the overland line between Chicago am 
Sacramento, is delightfully situated ii 
the centre of the valley of Great Sal 
Lake, 1,166 miles west from Omaha, am 
854 miles east of San Francisco. It ha 
a fine agricultural and mining region cor 
tiguous to it, and is the centre of a lap.' 
and growing trade. The traveller shoul 
be prepared to spend at least one week i 
the city and neighborhood ; longer if po: 
sible. The town covers an area of aboi 
9 miles — that is, 3 mUes each way. It: 
one of the most beautifully laid -out citii 
in the world. The streets are very wici' 
with water rumiing through nearly evei 
one of them. Every block is surrounde 
with beautiful shade-trees, and almo 
every house has its neat little orchard c 
apple, peach, apricot, and cherry tret 
In fact, the whole 9 square miles is almO' 
one continuous orchard. From Ensh 
Peak, one of the finest views on t! 
whole overland line is obtained. T! 
most noteworthy objects in the city a 
the Tabernacle, now nearly complet 
and capable of holding 15,000 peopl 
the Temple ; Presidential llansion, C( 
sisting of the "Bee-Hive" House a 
"Lion House," and enclosed within i 
high and substantial stone ' wall ; t 
T/ieatre, City Hall, and the residences i 
some of the Morjnon bishops and eldei 
The Theatre is an imposing edifice erecl: 
at a cost of $250,000, and capable 
seating 1,800 people. Excellent accc 
modation can be had at Toicnsend'sB.c 
cr the Revere. 



i 



Sii Lake City.] 



UTAH. 



[Fillmore City. 



Bait Lake City has three newspapers, 
t}- Telegraphy Vidette, and Deseret News, 
i: last-named being the organ of the 
J^rmon Church. 

Host charming walks and rides may be 
r^de to the Hot and Tepid Sulphur Springs 
(Iths at the latter), to Camp Douglas, 
2ililes distant, and to Great Salt and 
tnh Lakes. Outside of the City of Salt 
I^e, Mormon settlements extend hnn- 
dWs of miles in all directions. The 



principal towns and villages are Provo, 
Ogden, Brownsville, Franklin, Springville, 
Nephi, Stockton, Payson, etc. 

iPillmore City, once the capital 
of the Territory, is situated on theNuquin, 
a branch of the Nicollet River. Stages 
to Payson and Cedar City on the Provo 
or Timpanogos River. Seven miles 
above Provo City are some remarkable 
cataracts, well worthy a visit from travel- 
lers in that region. 

2'?9 



Idaho.] 



IDAHO. 



[BOISKE. 



IDAHO. 



Idaho was organized as a Territory, 
March 3, 1863. Its area was originally 
833,200 square miles, but of this immense 
area Montana has now nearly two-thirds. 
It is formed from the eastern halves of 
the old Washington and Oregon Terri- 
tories, the western half of Nebraska, 
and a small part of Northern Utah. It 
extends from Utah and Colorado on 
the south to the British possessions on 
the north. It is said that the Indian 
word Idaho is, in English, "a star;" 
and again, that it stands for " the gem 
of the mountains." The Idaho region 
includes the rich gold-fields of Salmon 
Rirer, a stream of remarkably picturesque 
beauty, flowing, here and there, between 
grand perpendicular walls varying in 
height from 500 to 2,000 feet. The very 
recent and rapid settlement of Idaho, 
commenced within two or three years 
past, has grown out of the gold discov- 
eries. These discoveries attracted thou- 
sands of adventurers from California, 
who soon afterward pushed their explo- 
rations toward Eastern Oregon and West- 
ern Idaho. From that period to the 
present a steady and increasing tide of 
immigration has set thitherward, and the 
resources of the land are being daily re- 
vealed and utilized, both in its mineral 
stores and its capacities in soil, climate, 
etc. Settlements are rapidly growing up, 
roads are being constructed, the waters 
are navigated, schools and chui-ches are 
appearing, with all other adjuncts of per- 
manent and progressive civilization. The 
mineral resources of Idaho, even as at 
present known, compare well vnth the 
other great mining portions of the great 
Rocky Mountain region. Gold is found 
in most of the tributaries of the Missouri 
280 



and the Yellowstone. Platina, too, lias 
been obtained in small quantities, wliile 
extensive deposits of this valuable metal 
are supposed to exist. Copper, iron, 
and salt ;ire abundant ; and coal is found 
upon the Pacific slope of the llocky Moun- 
tains, and on the upper Missouri and 
Yellowstone Rivers. The climate of the 
Idaho region is bleak in the mountain 
ranges, but mild and agreeable in the 
valley districts. Boise is the capital, and 
Idaho City, Lewiston, Ruby City, and 
Star City, the principal towns. 

The leading approaches to the Territory 
are from the Pacific by the Humboldt 
route from Hunter's Station, on the over- 
land (Wells, Fargo & Go's.) mail line to 
Boise, the capital, or from Portland, 
Oregon, by way of the Columbia and 
Snake Rivers to Lewiston, and from Uma-i 
tilla and Wallula to Boise and Idaho 
Cities. From Salt Lake City, via Bear 
River (84 miles), to Boise (393 miles.) 

BBoisee or Boise City, the capital and 
chief commercial town of Idaho, is situated; 
on a level plain on the north bank of the 
Boise River, about 30 miles southwest ol 
Idaho City, and 393 miles from Great 
Salt Lake City. It became the capitalit 
1864. Its broad, level, treeless avenue? 
with their low, white-verandahed ware 
houses, log cabins, new, neat cottages 
and ever-shifting panorama of wagOD; 
and coaches, Indians, miners, fanners'i 
and speculators, remind one of a prairie;' 
town in Kansas or Iowa. It is over, 
looked by Fort Boise, which has a nobli' 
parade-ground, surrounded by tastet'ui 
buildings of sandstone, and is the mos. 
beautiful of all our frontier posts, excep ' 
Fort Davis, in Texas. Ruby City, Sihc 
City, and Boonville, are trading towns i: 



SEE.] 



IDAHO. 



[Lewiston. 



tlj mountain mining district of Owyhee. 
T^y are reached over a rough dreary 
!d from Boise in one day. Ruby City 
ji the lieart of the Owyliee district, and 
iles from the Oregon line. It stands 
a|he bottom of a deep carion overlooked 
bimountain summits -which tower from 
8( to 1,500 feet above it. War Eagle, 
tl highest, is 2,000 feet above the town 
5,000 feet above the sea. This 
intain is rich in mineral. The Morn- 
\Star and Oro Fino Mills should be 
;ed. The Great Falls of the Snake, 
miles from Boise City, and 6 miles 
li'Ji the stage road, should be visited. 
Tlrare thus desci-ibed by a recent trav- 
el) in Idaho : " The roar grew loud as 
wt; ipproached ; yet we could not see 
•iver, for it runs through a winding 
tn, hundreds of feet below the sur- 
of the plain. But we could detect 
ist, with violet tinge of rainbow, and 
its thundering voice. At last we 
ted on a broken floor of brown lava, 
mded the precipice for three hun- 
feet, by a natural rock stairway, 
ed a fevr hundred yards across a 
' ce of grass, lava, and cedars, and 
I npon a second precipice. Peer- 
ver the edge, five hundred feet be- 
1 us we saw the river, after its terrific 
peaceful and placid as a mirror, 
a mile above, in full view, was the 



la 



[la 



at act. It is unequalled in the world, 
by Niagara, of which it vividly re- 
nii ed us. It is not all height, like Yo- 
;e, nor all breadth and power, like 
he reat Falls of the Missouri, nor all 
itribth and volume, like Niagara, but 
jonines the three elements. Like most 



cataracts, it has the horse-shoe form and 
the undying rainbow. The volume of 
water is less than at Niagara, for its cres- 
cent summit is only eight hundred feet 
wide. But the descent — two hundred 
feet — is one-third greater, while above the 
brink, solemn portals of lava, rising for 
hundreds of feet on each bank, supply an 
element of grandeur which the monarch 
of cataracts altogether lacks. One of 
these lava columns is crowned with an 
eagle's nest. Below the fall, over the 
canon side, shrivelled cedars cling to the 
rock, with roots like claws. Upon the 
withered branch of one perched a white- 
tailed magpie, while upon another, statu- 
esque and motionless, was an enormous 
raven, black as jet." * 

Ijovistom, the county seat of Nez 
Perce County and once the capital of the 
Territory, is on the Lewis Fork of the 
Columbia River, 353 miles east of Port- 
land, Oregon, with which it has daily 
communication. It contains several sub- 
stantial buildings and a population of 
2,000. 

Itialio City (formerly Bannack) 
is situated at the confluence of Elk and 
Moore's Creeks, in the midst of the 
placer gold mines of the Boise Basin. 
Boise City is 30 miles distant. A fire 
destroyed a great part of the town in May, 
1865, but it has been wholly rebuilt. Pop- 
ulation, about 4,000. 

The mining town of Buena Vista Bar, 
opposite Idaho City, has a population of 
1,600. 



* From " "West of the Mississippi," by Albert 
D. Eichardson. 

281 



M0XTAX.i.] 



MOXTAXA. 



[RoCTKg, Elt 



M O X T A X A 



MovTAXA formed a part of Idaho until 
Mar, 1S6-4, at which time it was organ- 
ized iato a distinct Territory. It is 
bounded on the north bv the British 
possessions, on the east bv Dacotah, and 
on the south by Dacotah and Idaho, and 
on the west by Idaho. Its length is about 
560 miles, and its breadth about 250 
mUes. 

The surface of the country is generally 
mountainous. The great Rocky Moun- 
tain range crosses the Territory. Com- 
mencing at the northern boundary, this 
range extends for a distance of about 200 
miles in a S. S. E. direction, after which it 
describes a great curve westward until it 
touches the border of Idaho. From this 
point the range winds along the south- 
west boundary of Montana for nearly 200 
miles. The Bitter-Root Mountains also 
form a part of the western boundary. 
The country bordering on the Jefferson, 
Gallatin, and Madison Forks of the Mis- 
souri is among the most fertile and beau- 
tiful to be foimd west of the Mississippi 
The country is a gently undulating prairie, 
dotted here and there with clumps of 
timber. The streams are beautifully 
fringed with forest growth ; the soil is 
rich, and the climate generally imld and 
invigorating. 

The piincipal rivers are the Missouri, 
the Yellowstone, and their tributaries ; 
the Big Horn, Powder, Milk, and Manas 
Rivers. 

Gold and silver have been found in 
great abundance, and mining is now the 
most important industry of the Territory. 
Indeed, Montana is believed by many who 
have visited and examined it to be the 
richest placer-mining region in the United 
States. 

2S2 



i 



I The Great Falls of the iCssouri are r 
! garded as the leading object of interest; 
I travellers. 

I Rotrrrs. — The principal routes to tb 
I Territory are the overland route from Sil 
1 Lake City, via Bear River, and Rinnacvi 
! to Tirginia City and Helena ; and the ML 

souri River route to Fort Benton. Th 
. latter cannot be travelled except dnrin 
I the rise in the river, which usually takt 
j place in June, and ordinarily affords nav 
I gation for about six weeks. Fort Tni ■ 
I 400 miles below Fort Benton, is tbe L: 

of summer navigation. For all pract.'- 
I purposes of travel the overland ronte 1 
I Salt Lake Qty is the only route. 
I From Fort Benton, via Mullan's Pa.- 
I and Stevens's Pass, to Walla-Walk, Or 
: gon, a distance of 618 miles, the ro; 
; crosses the northern part of the Territo: 
! From Great Salt Lake City to Tirf.L 
• City and Helena, the stations an. 

tances are as follow, viz. : 

To Centreville M 

" Kavs Ward 12 

" Ogaen Citv 15 

" Bi^Dam .'. 11 

'• Brisham City 11 

" Mormon Citr !• 

~ Beae Ei-teb M 

'■ Mound Springs 12 

'* Henderson Creek 1' 

•' Mallade Citr '■' 

- Devili Creek 1" 

" MaRh Valley V 

'• Carp'.-nters 1-5 

'• Bobbers" Eetreat 1- 

'^ BlackEock 13 

" Pocatello 1" 

" Eosi" Fork 1- 

" Blackfoot Eiver 1':^ 

" Tampateh I"' 

" Cedar PoinL 1^ 

" Big Bend ^- 

" Eagle Eock -' 

" Market Lake. 1" 



ACK.] MOXTAXA. 



[Helena. 



Miles, Miles. 

ci)esert Wells IS 2S2 

>amas Creek 12 294 

■)ryCieek 22 816 

■|*le:i£ant Valley 12 82S 

'I utamit 9 33T 

'jnnction Eauche 10 S4T 

' Ii>soaii Spring 9 35(3 

■ r.ed Eock 13 369 

' -able Eock 10 3T9 

' forse Prairie 15 394 

'LnnackCity 10 404 

■ iattlesnake 15 419 

toneEanche 15 -434 

aver Head 10 444 

inking- Water Branch 12 456 

lorrain's 11 46" 

irginia City 10 4TT 

eiena 120 o9T 

aving the City of the Saints the road 
el along the northeast bank of the 
Salt Lake, past thrifty Mormon 
illses of dull-brown adobe houses, with 
orcliards overspreading cotton- 

l-trees and streets watered by small 

cial streams. 

'ter crossing the Idaho line a little 
io;i of Bear River, the road passes 
hnigh Port Xeuf Canon, thirty miles 
oeI and soon af(er the traveller reaches 
htlnake or Shoshonee (Winding) River, 
hdld Lewis Fork of the Columbia. 

'lis dim, crooked artery of the great 
lesk's heart, fifteen hundred miles in 
enjh, rises from springs within half a 
niiof those forming the head-waters of 
hcllissouri. It is the river of desola- 
ioil Unrelieved by forests or green 
jails for nearly the entire length, it is a 
latlal ditch sunk in the sand — filled 
viticlear water, and faintly fringed with 
(capring willows and cottonwoods. 

Eyond Snake River the road crosses 
Tiilf of sand. To the east rise the 
'J Ilk Teions, a unique spur of the Rocky 
Mojtains, called by the Indians the 
' TJee Pinnacles." Climbing over the 
'd|de" of the Rocky Mountains, just 
! Pleasant Valley Station, we leave 
ific slope behind, entering Mon- 
..niaiiiong the tributaries of the Mis- 

50U| 

Iiunack, the pioneer town of 



Montana, is first reached. It lies in the 
gulch of Grasshopper Creek, enclosed by 
lofty mountains, 70 miles from Yirginia 
City and 400 from Salt Lake City. 

Virginia City. — Hotel, Plant- 
ers'. Yirginia, the capital and chief city 
of Montana, is situated on Alder Creek, a 
tributary of Jefferson's Pork of the Mis- 
souri. It was settled in July, 1862, and 
with its suburbs Nevada City and Junc- 
tion, contains a population of between 
4,000 and 5,000. Alder Gulch is about 
13 miles in length, and presents to the 
eye of one unacquainted with mining 
operations, a curious spectacle. Millions 
of doUars of gold have been taken out 
of it. The Post, one of the best news- 
papers in the Territory, is published here. 
Stages and stage expresses leave daily 
and tri-weekly for Helena, Bannack, and 
Salmon River, Silver Bow, Red Mountain 
City, Deer Lodge, Blackfoot, Rej-nolds 
City, Bearto^\"n, and Hellgate. 

Between Virginia City and Helena the 
distance, 120 miles, is usually travelled by 
stage in 14 to 16 hours. Views of the 
junction of the Jefferson, Gallatin, and 
Madison Porks, which form the Missouri, 
and of the Hot Springs, four miles from 
Helena, and White-tailed Deer Canon are 
obtained en route. These springs have 
fine medicinal properties, and are largely 
patronized by visitors from Helena. 

l&elena. — Hotel, Broadvay House. 
Helena is a thriving three-year-old city, 
with a population of nearly 6,000. It is 
the supply-point of the rich placer mines 
of the Blackfoot country and other sec- 
tions of Northern Montana, embracing 
some of the most valuable diggings on 
the continent. It is 18 miles west of the 
Missouri River, and 120 miles north of 
Virginia City. The first settlement was 
made here in Last Chance Gidch, in the 
fall of 1864. In the vicinity are exten- 
sive quarries of granite and blue lime- 
stone. The city contains several banks 
and wholesale stores. The Herald is 
published daily, with all the mining and 
Territorial news. 

283 



Denver.] 



COLORADO. 



[PiKii's Peak. 



COLO E ADO. 



Colorado was organized as a Territory 
Marcli 2, 1861. Its area is 106,475 square 
miles. It lies directly west of Kansas, and 
comprises the western part of the old Ter- 
ritory of Kansas, and portions of the for- 
mer Territories of Nebraska, New Mexico, 
and Utah. Knowledge of this region con- 
tinued very meagre till 1858, at whicli 
time mining operations were first com- 
menced. In May, 1859, the famous Greg- 
ory mines were discovered, and immigra- 
tion set in rapidly. The estimated popu- 
lation of Colorado, in 1863, was 45,000, 
exclusive of 15,000 tribal Indians. The 
principal pursuits of the people are mining 
and agriculture. 

Cwoliteia City, the capital of Colo- 
rado, has a population of about 1,000. 
It is situated at the base of the moun- 
tains, 15 miles from Denver. 
I>eiivea-. — Hotels, the Pacific, corner 
of Larimer and G Streets, is a well-kept 
house ; the Iremont and the Planters'. — 
Denver, the principal city of Colorado, is 
at the confluence of Cherry Creek with the 
South Fork of the Platte River, 13 miles 
from the base of the Rocky Mountains. 
It is one of the main points on tlie great 
overland line between Omaha and Great 
Salt Lake, and commands considerable 
trade and travel. It is distant 580 miles 
west of Omaha, and 586 miles east of Salt 
Lake City. The first house in this vicin- 
ity was built in the fall of 1857, at a place 
then called Montana, which was deserted 
in 1859. Denver, formerly St. Charles, 
and named after Governor Denver, was 
commenced October, 1858. The first 
coach of the Leavenworth and Pike's 
Peak Express Company arrived May 7, 
1859. The city v/as incorporated Novem- 
ber 7, 1860. It now contains about 6,000 
284 



inhabitants and several fine buildinggi 
among which are 3 hotels, 2 theatres, auOj 
2 priutiug-oSices and newspapers — the 
Rochj Mountain JVcivs and Denver Daili/ 
The Mintis worth visiting. But themairi 
attractions of Denver and its locality an 
the views of the mountains which raisi 
their lofty summits to the west, north, am: 
south. Seventy miles to the south Pib' 
Peal; like some old castle, "majesti( 
though in ruin," lies dim and soft againsi 
the sky. The mountain is well worthy tis 
name a noble State. Though not th 
highest, it is probably the grandest of tin 
whole Rocky Mountain I'ange. The vici 
from the summit is thus described by 
recent traveller : " Eastward, for a btir 
dred miles, our eyes wandered over tli 
dim, dreamy prairies, spotted by the dar 
shadows of the clouds, and the deepi 
green of the pineries, intersected by tli 
faint, gray lines of the roads, audemeral 
threads of timber along the streams, an 
bmded, on the far horizon, with a girdi 
of gold. To the north we could trace th 
Platte for seventy miles, while far to tl 
south swept the green timbers of tl 
Arkansas, and then rose the Spanis 
Peaks of New Mexico, a hundred mii 
away. Eight or ten miles distant, tv 
little gem-like lakes nestled among tl 
rugged mountains, revealing even tl 
shadoivs of the rocks and pines in tin 
transparent waters. Far beyond, a gvoi; 
of tiny lakelets glittered and sparkl 
like a clusters of stars." 

Forty miles to the north of the tov 
stands Long'^s Peak, distinct, rugged, a 
corrugated — its feet wreathed in pine, a 
its head crested with snow. A dark, 
regular, variegated wall sweeps graiu 
between them, at the verge of the sensil 



TES.] 



COLORADO. 



[Centeal City. 



izon, and beyond, on either side, 

ges into the dreamy, debatable ground 

ween earth and lieaven. The moun- 

is, at the nearest point, ten miles from 

Djver, afford a view unexcelled upon 

j continent. Some sixty miles south 

Denver, on the road to Pike's Peak, 

remarkable region of natural mon- 

n^uts of stone, which assume various 

Listie forms. Upright shafts of rock 

standing, over a track twenty miles 

nfength. Some crowning summits of 

lil look like immense castles built with 

jclject symmetry by humau hands. But 

ult have the size and shape of grave- 

;tles and monuments, and thickly 

;tl the ground for hundreds of acres. 

^tjuing in the midst of pine-groves, 

h| give the precise effect of a well- 

ihled cemetery filled with memorials 

)f the dead. Near Colorado City they 

;u|inate in an immense gateway of solid 

•o|, known as the entrance to the Gar- 

leJpf the Gods. 

Iages from Denver. — Wells, Fargo, 
mICo.'s stages, carrying the mails, leave 
iJerer, for the mountain cities, every 
nc|ing at seven. Fare, up, $8.00. 

'|e same stage line starts a coach from 
Derer to Omaha, via the Platte and U. P. 
il. 1. route, every morning at six o'clock. 
Mil via Smoky Hill route to Leaven- 
voji, every afternoon at four o'clock. 
bailthrough by either route $100. Their 
bodies start also daily for Salt Lake, 
VIolana, and California, at seven o'clock 
:;ac[morning. Fare to Salt Lake City, 

1-1 
e Southern Colorado and New Mex- 
tage Line leaves Denver eveiy Mon- 
Wednesdav, and Friday mornings, 
to Santa F6, $105. 
nail hack lc;ives for the South Park, 
River, and Upper Arkansas Mines, 
Thursday morning. Fare $12 to 
Uu4kin Joe. 



A mail hack leaves for Boulder County 
every Wednesday and Saturday morning. 
Fare to Boulder City, $2.50. 

UlacBc Mj6-«'1s is an important 
mining town in Gilpin County, 40 miles 
west of Denver. It contains 2 churches, 
and numerous schools. Stages connect 
it with Denver. The Mining Journal is 
published here. The St. Charles Hotel 
and Afountaiii House have moderate ac- 
comodations. 

CeiaSi-itl City, the capital of Gil- 
l^in County, and a mountain mining town 
of importance, is also west of Denver. It 
is the centre of the famous Gregory gold 
mines. A number of mills are in opera- 
tion here, and large quantities of gold 
dust are exported. The Times, published 
daily, contains all items of interest to 
travellers through the Rocky Mountains. 
The first house was erected in 1859. It 
now contains 4 churches, 2 schools, and 
a population of 4,000. St. Nicholas 
Hotel, Keystone House, and Connor 
House. 

Empire City, on the North Clear 
Creek, 15 miles from Central City, is in a 
rich lode-mining region. Its population 
is 1,000. 

Coloa-ado City is near the base 
of Pike's Peak, on Fontaine que Brouille, 
a tributary of the Arkansas. It is 100 
miles south of Denver. 

Caisom City is on the Arkansas, 
120 miles south of Denver. Pueblo is 
40 miles below Caiion City, and 100 miles 
southwest of Denver. 

Hamilton, Montgomery, and Torry are 
situated 100 miles west of Denver, among 
the southwestern lode mines. They are 
all growing settlements. 

Other thriving settlements are found 
upon the western slope of the Snowy 
Range Mountains, among the silver mines 
and the quartz-lode mines of that re- 
gion. 

285 



Yankton.] 



DACOTAH. 



[Vermilioi 



D AGO T AH 



Dacotah was organized as a Territory 
March 2, 1861. It is situated directly west 
of Minnesota and on the northwestern part 
of Iowa. It has absorbed much of the 
western part of the old Territory of Min- 
nesota, and of the eastern part of Ne- 
braska. Its length from east to west is 
about '750 miles, and its area 152,000 
square miles. The western part of the 
Territory is very mountainous. The 
Eocky Mountain range extends along the 
western boundary. The Black Hills, 
which belong to the Eocky Mountain 
range, traverse the more central and 
southern portion. Fremont's Peak and 
Laramie Peak belong to this range. The 
principal rivers are the Missouri, the Eed 
Eiver of the North, and the North Fork 
of the ' Platte. The Missouri washes its 
eastern and southern border, and drains 
a large portion of the Territory. The 
climate of Dacotah is healthful and 
genial, and the soil is well suited to agri- 
cultural and gTazLng purposes, being rich 
in the yield of gi'ain, fruits, and vegeta- 
bles. The first white settlements were 
made in 1858-59 at Sioux Falls, Vermil- 
ion, and Yankton. The Yankton and the 
Ponca Indians, also the Winnebago, the 
Sioux, and the Santee tribes (recently re- 
moved from Minnesota), have extensive 
reservations on the Missouri Eiver and 
on the Niobrara above Yankton. They 
286 



are reported- to have become domes' 
cated, and to be devoting themselves 
agriculture and stock-raising. Dacot; 
has numerous lakes, the largest of whii 
is Winni-Waken or Devil Lake. Ti 
principal avenues of travel to and throu; 
the Territory are by boat up the Missoi 
River to Yankton, or by the overland ni; 
line to Fort Laramie. A bill organizi 
the Territory of Wyoming, out of Dae 
tah, was introduced in the 38th Congre 
but failed to pass. 

TanJcton, the capital, is situati 
on the west bank of the Missouri, 7 mi 
above the mouth of the Dacotah Riv 
and 65 miles north of the Iowa lii^ 
Population, 750. The other principal .■^ 
tlements are Big Sioux Point, Elk Poi 
Maley Creek, Vermilion, BonhomD 
Greenwood, and Fort Eandall. F 
Abercrombie is on the Eed Eiver of i 
Noi-th, near the Minnesota line. Lai 
quantities of valuable furs and peltr 
are obtained from Dacotah ; and reccni 
indications have appeared of the ex 
euce, in the Black Hills, 300 miles w 
from Yankton, of good supplies of gc 
iron, and coal. 

T'ei'miiioii. is on the Missc 
Eiver, 30 miles southeast of Yankl 
near the mouth of the Big Sioux Ri' 
Here is located the United States La 
Office for the Territory. 



ACEOSS THE CONTINENT. 

i^BLE OF DISTANCES FR02I SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK, 
BY STEAMBOAT, STAGE, AND RAILWAY. 



123 



Miles. Miles. 

ri'in San Francisco 

'pACKAMENTo (by steamtoat) 

m Sacramento 
TArcade 1^ 

"intelope 15 

■ unction 18 

oclclin 22 

ino 25 

ewcastle 31 

'Inburn 36 

lipper Gap 43 

olfas 54 

old Pain 64 

latch Flat 6T 

Ita 69 

liarty Eun 78 

lue Canon 78 

migrant Gap S4 

"'isco 93 

pmrait 105} 

ruckee Eiver 120 

tate Line 138 

lEGiNiA City 162 



Fr 1 Yirsinia City 



To 



162 



evada 33 

tton wood 50 

Id River 66 

illwater 81 

ountain Wells 96 

lirview 112 

est Gate 127 

>ld Springs 141 

iwarda's Creek 156 

ew Pass 170 

ount Airy 1S4 

;ese Eiver 195 

astin 204 

ipc Horn 218 

ry (Jreek 234 

•iiVs Wells 250 

jberts's Creek 263 

ilphur Springs 273 

amond Mountain Springs 292 

cob's Well 304 

tiBY Valley. .'. 319 319 



Enby Valley 

Duntain Springs 10 

itte Wells Station 27 

ran CaOon 42 

Imdary Line between Nevada and Utali. 



e Central Pacific Eailway connections, p. 



Miles. Miles. 

To Sbell Creek .58 

" Spring Valley 72 

" Antelope Springs 88 

" Eigbt-mile Station Ill 

" Deep Creek 119 

" Canon Station (silver mines) 132 

" Willow Springs 147 

" Boyd's Well 157 

'■ Fish Springs 168 

" Black Eock 171 

" Dngway Station 187 

'' Eiver Bed 197 

" Simpson's Springs 207 ' 

" Point Lookout '.. .224 

" Eiish Valley 233 

" Centre Station 244 

" Fort Crittenden 2.')4 • 

" Jordan Eiver Station 265 

" Point of Mountain 276 

" Mill Creek 30I 

" Salt Lake Citt .311 811 

From San Francisco to Great Salt Lake 917 

From Omaha 

To Pappillion 17J 

'• Elkhoi-n 2SJ- 

'• Tremont 46j 

" North Bend 6li 

" Shell Creek [ 7g| 

" Columbus 91^ 

" Silver Creek 109 

" Lone Tree 18]^ 

" Grand Island 153} 

" Wood Eiver 171^ 

" Kearney , .'..J 90 

" Elm Creek 211 

" Plum Creek " [930 

" Willow Island 250 

" Brady Island 268 

" NoKTH Platte ; 290 290 

From North Platte 

To Bishop's (swing station) 10 

" Fremont Springs 20 

" Bakers 29 

" Bradstreet's '....'.'.'. 38 

" Alkali (home station) 46 

" Sand Hills 56 

" Diamond Springs .'..'. 67 

" Elbow ■ 77 

" Buttes .".'!!!.'!! 87 

" Julesburg (home station) ....... 96 

" Fort Sedgwick, 97 

" Gillett's (swing station) ! ! [1O6 

" Antelope , ijs 

" Mound .'!.!!!!i!l29 

" Eivcrsides (home station). !."."!.'.".!l39 

" Valley Station (swing station) 149 

287 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



Allies. Alilea, 

To Fairview 101 

" Godfrey's (home station) IT'2 

'• Boaver Creek (swing station) l>-3 

" Douglas's Eanche 195 

" 'Junction (home station) '20G 

" Biiou (Swing station) 21S 

" Eock Bluffs asi 

" Mule Creek -241 

" Living Springs (home station) 249 

" Kiowa (swing station) 259 

'• Box Alder 2T0 

" Toll Gate 281 

" Dexver 290 290 

" I Golden City (swing station). . . . ) 303 

" ■< Lake House (swing station) V 313 

" ( Michigan House (swing station)., j 319 

" Cesteal City (swing station) 331 331 

From Denver 

To Church's (swing station) -. . . 11 

■ Boulder 22 

" Burlington (Tiome station) 33 

" Little Thompson (swing station).. . 43 

" Big Thompson 53 

" Spring Canon 63 

La Porte (home station) 71 

Overland Park (swing station) 81 

Virginia Dale (loine station") 89 

■Willow Springs (swmg station) 103 

Bis Laramie (home station) 113 

Little Laramie (swing station) 135 

Cooper's Creek i^home station) 150 

Medicine Bow (^swiiig station) 161 

Eock Creek 169 

TVagon Hound 171 

Elk Mountain (home statitin) 1T9 

Pass Creek (swing station) 191 

Is"orth Platte (tome station) 207 

Sage Creek (swing station) 222 

Pine Grove 232 

Bridger Pass 243 

■ Sulphur Springs (home station) .... 251 

Waskie (swing station) 262 

Duck Lake 275 

Dug Spring 287 

La Clede (home station) 303 

Big Pond (swing station) 313 

Black Buttes (swing station) 329 

Eock Point 343 

Salt Wells 356 

Eock Springs 361 

Green Elver (home station) 378 

Lone Tree (swing station) 393 

Antelope 401 

South Bend 410 

Church Buttes 423 

Millersville 450 

Fort Bridger (home station) 463 

Muddy (swing station) 475 

Quaking Asp 4S5 

Bear Eiver (home station.) 495 

Ueedle Eock (swing station) 505 

Echo Cauon 515 

Hanging Eock 523 

Weber (home station) 535 

Daniel's (swing statiim) 547 

Kimball's (home station) 559 

Hardy's (swing station) 573 

Salt "Lake City 596 596 

Recapitulation. 

San Fiaucisco to Sacramento (steamboat).. 125 
Sacramento to Cisco (railway) 93 

28S 



Cisco to Virginia City (stage) ,' 

Virginia City to Euhy Valley (stage) :j: 

Euby Valley to Great" Salt Lake City (stage) ;{. 

Great Salt Lake City to Denver (stiire) .', 

Denver to North Platte, terminus of L'. P. 

E. E. (Stage) ." '^, 

JiTorth Platte to Omaha (U. P. Eailway) ." w., 
Omaha to Chicago (C. & N. W. E. E.)....i 4;,, 
Chicago to ifew York, tia Pittsburg <ji 

Grand total 8^4;, 

Total distance by railway 1,788 

" stage 1,586 

" steamboat 125 



Table of Distances from Sacramenti 
to Boise City, Idalio, by the Hum 
boldt Koute— \ 

5I!lrt. Mil. 

Sacramento to Cisco by railroad 98 

Cisco to Crystal Peak, br stage 51 141 

Crvstal Peak ro Hunter s 8 IS 

Hunter's to Big Bend of Truckee 35 ISl 

Big Bend to Humboldt Lake 41 22- 

Humboldt Lake to Star City 52 2"i 

Star Citv to Dun Glen ." 13 *>■ 

Dun Glen to Humboldt Bridge 23i- 8:' 

Humboldt Bridire to Toll Hoiise 11 $'. 

Toll House to Willow Point SJ 31 

Willow Point to Cane Springs lo} S-'' 

Cane Springs to Rebel Creek 15 ST 

Rebel Creek to Camp McDermott....24 'Si' 
Camp McDerraott to Summit Springs.25 i'l 

Summit Springs to Dry Creek 15 4-S 

Dry Creek to Owyhee Eiver Ferry... "21} 4o 

Ferry to Inskip's or Cow Creek 19 4" 

Inskip's to Camp Lyon 18} 49 

Camp Lyon to Euby City 14 5>' 

Euby City to Snake Eiver Ferry 23 M 

Ferry to Boise City 26 5(i 

Distance bv Eaih-oad 98 

Distance by Wagon-Koad 469J id 

Central Pacific Kailroad Conne 
tions. 

At Junction, IS miles from Sacramento. • 
road connects with the California Centrr 
Tuba Eailroadi, completed within t mi. ■ 
Mai-ysville, where a connection will be Itr:. 
with the Oroi-ille liailroad, and thence 
stages, alfording transportation to thefollo\f 
places : Lincoln, 11 miles from Junction ; Mar 
ville (33) ; Oroville (59) ; Chico (79) ; Teba 
(111) ; Red Bluffs (123) ; Shasta (153) ; Ti-ib 
Centre (20S) ; Callahan's (233); Treka (273) : P' 
land, Oregon, 622 mUes. At Aubunu% ni 
from Sacramento, stages to Ophir (4\ and ti 
HiU (6 miles) ; also to Greenwood (12), • 
Georgetown (16 miles); also to Grizzly E 
House (6) ; Yankee Jim's (IS) ; Forrest Hill i; 
and Michigan Bluff's, 2S miles. At Colja^ 
miles from Sacramento, with stages to Grass ^ 
ley (12) ; Nevada (16) : San Juan (30) : ;ind D" 
ie"ville (53 miles). Also to Iowa Hill (6).^ 
eonsin Hill (3). and Yankee Jim's (12 mil 
Also to You Bet. Walloupa. Eed Dog, and Li 
York, from 6 to 10 miles distant. At Ci'C 
miles from Sacramento, with Enterprise (4). 
Meadow Lake (12 miles). Also with sUvi";- 
the Great Overland Eoute. 



THE SOUTHEE]^ TOUE. 



13 



■63 



37 






1 


\ 



MARYLA]^D 



'he country which now forms the State 
jMaryland, was granted to Lord Balti- 
e by Charles I., and was named in 
i(lor of Henrietta Maria, Queen of tliat 
larch. Maryland is one of the most 
hern of the late slaveholding States, 
the most southern of the group dis- 
ijuished as the Middle States. It is 
of the original thirteen, 
he first permanent settlement in Mary- 
was made at St. Mary's, by Leonard 
ert, brother of Lord Baltimore, in 
It was one of the earliest of the 
nies to grant entire freedom of relig- 
faitli — virtually, though not, as is 
1 written and said, by formal legal 
tments. The emigrants in their own 
Js still bear the title of " Pilgrims of 
lary's." 

aryiand was not the theatre of any of 
»reat battles of the Revolution ; but 
important scenes of the war of 
look place within her borders. The 
of the State were at that period 
invaded by the British troops, 
were bravely met and repulsed at 
battle of North Point, in tlie Chesa- 
e, September 13, 1814. During the 
dlion of 1861-65, repeated invasions 
le State were made by Confederate 
resulting in great destruction of 
:rty, especially on the line of the 
more and Ohio Railway. 



y; 



The area of the State is 10,210 square 
miles, a portion of which is covered by 
the waters of the Chesapeake Bay, which 
extends within its jurisdiction 120 miles 
northward. 

The State is naturally divided into three 
distinct geographical sections. The first 
section comprises that portion Ijing east 
of the Susquehanna River and Chesa- 
peake Bay, known as the " Eastern Shore," 
and which contains the counties of Wor- 
cester, Somerset, Dorchester, Talbot, Car- 
oline, Queen Anne, Kent, and Cecil. The 
second section, comprising what is usu- 
ally called the " Western Shore," consists 
of another peninsula, lying inland, be- 
tween the Potomac River and Chesapeake 
Bay, and up to the line of the river falls, 
and comprises the counties of St. Mary's, 
Calvert, Charles, Prince George, Anne 
Arundel, Howard, and parts of Montgom- 
ery, Baltimore and Harford, an area of 
about 3,698 square miles. A ledge of 
primitive rocks, which constitute the lead- 
ing geographical feature of this section, 
forms the natural boundary between the 
alluvial region and the mountainous dis-' 
trict of Maryland, which latter consti- 
tutes the third section of the State. Era- 
braced in this section are Carroll, Freder- 
ick, Washington, and Alleghany Counties, 
which cover an area of 2,590 square 
miles, and afford some of the most pictur 
291 



Baltimore.] 



MAEYLAXD. 



[Baltimoi 



esque scenery to be found in the State. 
The country upon both the eastern and 
western shores of the bay is generally 
level and sandy. The long narrow strip 
which extends westward is a lofty region, 
crossed by several ridges of the Allegha- 
nies. These ranges, vrith. their interven- 
ing valleys, afford charming landscape 
passages to the traveller, on the route of 
the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, and 
make that highway one of the most at- 
tractive of the many leading from the 
Eastern cities to the great West. The 
hill-region of Maryland abounds in rich 
mineral deposits. The coal lands, though 
not very extensive, are extremely pro- 
ductive. Copper mines are worked in 
Frederick and Carroll Counties. 

Besides the culture of all the grains, 
fruits, vegetables, and other products of 
the Northern States, Maryland gi'ows 
large quantities of tobacco. The State 
ranks, in the production of this staple, 
as third in the Union, and, measuring by 
population, as second. 



BALTIMOEE, 

98 miles from Philadelphia, 186 from 
New York, via Philadelphia, Wilmington, 
and Havre de Grace. 

Hotels. — Barnuni's {City), on Monu- 
ment Square, corner Fayette and Calvert 
Streets, is a long-established and deserv- 
edly popular house. Eooms large and 
well ventilated. The main apartment 
dining-room has just been refitted and 
furnished, at an expense of ten thousand 
dollars. Has accommodation for 600 
guests. TJie Eutaio House, corner W. 
Baltimore and Eutaw Streets, in the west 
end of the city, is pleasantly situated for 
famihes. Its management entitles it to 
rank among the best hotels in the coun- 
try. The Fomitam, in Light Street, the 
Maliby, in Pratt Street, and G^ihnour's, in 
Baltimore Street, are conveniently located, 
and am^rg the iDcst of their class in the 
city. Restaurants are numerous, and 
generally well kept. The oysters of the 
Chesapeake and its tributaries have long 
been famous. 

Baltimore, one of the four great East- 
ern cities, with a population of ov er 240,- 
292 



000, is imposingly situated upon the noi 
side of the Patapsco River, 1 2 miles fn 
its entrance into the Chesapeake Bay, a 
about 200 miles, by these waters', fn 
the sea. Built, as it is, upon hill-sic 
and terraces, its appearance is at oi 
imposing and picturesque. Strikin" 
deed, to the stranger, is the unlooked- 
scene, as he gazes from the water upwa 
through the climbing streets, capped 
their tops by soaring spire and dome, 
whose midst, and above all, soars 
proud crest of the famous monument ■ 
Washington; and hardly less attract: 
is the picture as the eye looks downw 
from these elevated points upon the b 
city and its surrounding lands and wat 

The present site of Baltimore ■ 
chosen in 1729, and its name was ; 
stowed upon it, in 1745, in honor of 1: 
Baltimore. In 1780 it became a per 
entry, with the accompaniments of i 
tom-house, naval officers, etc. In 1 
the first pavements were laid on B 
more Street, the chief avenue of the . 
at that period, as at the present tima 
the same year the first regular commi 
cation with Philadelphia was establiR' 
through a line of stage-coaches, 
charter of the city bears date as lati: 
1797. The population, which at this ■', 
was 26,000, had increased by the 
1854 to nearly 200,000. In 1S60 it • 
212,418. The next census wUl vmdc 
edly show a still gi-eater ratio of incrc 
and so, each succeeding enumerati< 
for the natural advantages of the 
promise it ever-increasing progress. 

As laid out, it includes an area of 
miles square, and extends nearly r 
the bay. The harbor is capacious 
safe, and consists of an inner basin, 
which vessels of considerable burdei 
enter, and an outer harbor at wh; 
known as FelFs Point, accessible t( 
largest merchant ships. The entran 
defended by Fort McHenry, which fi| 
conspicuously in the war of 1812. 
harbor is seldom obstructed by i 
fact which adds to the commerce o 
port during the winter months. J 
Falls, a small stream from the i 
spanned by several wooden bridge 
vides the city into two nearly equal ; 
which are known locally as East 



West Baltmiore. From these falL H 



LTIMOEE.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Baltimore. 



Slinn Lake, six miles beyond, the city 
hi a never-failing supply of fine water. 
T ^ streets are regular and well paved, 
alj the houses built mainly of brick, 
ji marble or granite facings. The city 
ivided into twenty wards, and has an 
2fctive, well-regulated fire department, 
ng the early days of the late rebel- 
the city was the scene of considera- 
loting. On the 19th April, 1861, on 
tl^passage of Massachusetts troops (6th 
ent infantry) through the city, crowds 
cted at the depot and along the hne 
ute, and stoned the cars and soldiers : 
nil citizens were killed during the course 
ome riot and many more were wounded. 
Tijnty-five of the wounded soldiers were 
to the Washington Hospital. The 
ng was mainly on Pratt Street, be- 
twhn South and Howard. 

Iiltimore has been called " The Monu- 
mffltal City," and not inappropriately, for 
itsponuments are its greatest ornaments. 
Cc|tituting as they do not only a source 
of|uch pride to its citizens, but the 
.leiing objects of interest to strangers, 
thJ command our first attention. 

le Washington Monument is chief 
an ig the structures of this kind. It is a 
vei graceful work,staudiug upon a terrace 
lO'i'eet above tide-water, in Mt. Vernon 
Pli ?, at the intersection of Charles and 
Mc iment Streets. Its base is 50 feet 
?qire and 20 feet high, supporting a< 
Do 3 shaft 176 J- feet in height, which is 
■"sui ounted by a colossal statue of Wash- 
iio n, 16 feet high. " The Father of his 
Jo 'try " is represented in the crowning 
■ictf his military life, the resignation of 
"lisommission as commander-in-chief at 
-inipolis, Dec. 17, 1783. The total ele- 
'i'-^atn is thus 31 2 i- feet above the level 
■ *)f e river. It is built with brick, cased 
A'itj white marble, and cost $200,000. 
''rci the balcony of the monument the 
sincl view of the city, harbor, river, and 
•smrlunding country is obtained. Access 
""■ I'a circular stairway within. Applica- 
'>r admission should be made to the 
, who will furnish the necessary 

i/lle Ifonumenf, erected to the mem- 
ryf those who fell defending the city 
ptcmber, 1814, is at the corner of 
-r^ial irt and Fayette Streets,ncar Barnum's 
sJto1^ The square sub-base on which 



the pedestal or column rests rises 20 feet 
from the ground, with an Egyptian door 
on each front, on which are api^ropriate 
inscriptions and representations, in basso- 
relievo, of some of the incidents of the 
battle. The column rises 18 feet above 
the base. This, which is of marble, in 
the form of a Roman fasces, is encircled 
by bands, on which are inscribed, in 
sculptured letters, the names of those 
whose patriotic achievements it serves to 
commemorate. It is surmounted by a 
female figure in marble, emblematic of 
the City of Baltimore, the work of an 
Italian artist named Capellauo. The 
whole height of the monument is 52-^ 
feet. 

Armislead Monument, near the City 
Spring, is merely a tablet, sunken in a 
subterranean niche. It was erected to 
the memory of Col. George Armistead, 
the commander at Fort McHenry, in 1814, 
through whose intrepidity a British fleet 
of sixteen sail was rejjulsed, after having 
bombarded the fort for twenty-four hours. 
This stone is sometimes spoken of abroad 
as among the monumental wonders of 
Baltimore — to which glory, however, it 
has no kind of claim. Baltimoreana 
themselves seldom speak of it. 

Public Buildings. — The Ezcliange, in 
Gay Street, is a large and elegant struc- 
ture, with a fa9ade of 240 feet. The 
building has colonnades of six Ionic col- 
umns on its east and west sides, the shafts 
of which are single blocks of fine Italian 
marble, of admirable workmanship. The 
whole is surmounted by an immense 
dome, the apex of which is 115 feet above 
the street. The Custom House occupies 
the first story of the south wing of the 
Exchange, fronting on Lombard Street. 

In the northeast part of the building 
is the Merchants' Bank, while the Rotun- 
da is used for the City Fosi- Office. The 
Rcadmg-Room is a fine apartment, 50 feet 
square. Original cost of the whole struc- 
ture $600,000. Subsequent improvements 
have increased this to nearly one million 
dollars. 

The Maryland Institute, on Baltimore 
Street, near the bridge, is an imposing 
edifice 355 feet long by 60 feet wide. 
The first story of this immense building 
is occupied as a place of public vendue, 
and known as the " Centre Market." The 
293 



Baltimore.] 



MARYLAND. 



[BALTuuna, 



three-story edifice fronting on Baltimore 
Street, contains the library and offices. 
The main hall, 260 feet by 60, is devoted 
to the Annual Exhibitions of American In- 
dustry, Fairs, and other similar purposes. 
It will accommodate five thousand per- 
sons. The cost of the structure was 
about $100,000. 

The JS^eio City HalJ, on Holiday Street, 
is a plain, substantial buildiug of three 
stories, with a massive-looking portico. 

The Court House, corner of Monument 
Square and Lexington Street, is a commo- 
dious and commanding building, 145 feet 
by 65, two stories in height, consti'ucted 
of marble and brick, appropriated to the 
puri^oses of the City and County Courts. 
It is ornamented with white marble pilas- 
ters, in the modern Ionic style, and sur- 
mounted by a cupola of imposing appear- 
ance'. Its interior appointments are ex- 
cellent. 

The new IT. 8. Court House, corner of 
Korth and Fayette Streets, is a massive 
granite structure, not yet quite completed. 

The City Prisons and State Peniteniiary, 
fronting on Madison Street, east of the 
Falls, are worthy a visit. The former 
building, more popularly known as the 
"Jail," was built in 1857-60, from de- 
signs by the Messrs. Dixon, at a cost of 
$250,000. The building is 404 feet long, 
and comprises a centre building and two 
wings. The exterior walls of the build- 
ing are of rubble masonry, the stone be- 
ing from the adjacent quanies on Jones' 
Falls. It is a substantial and well-ar- 
ranged prison. 

The Penitentiary consists of three large 
buildings, occupying nearly four acres, 
laid out in gardens and slirubbery, and 
surrounded by a stone wall 20 feet high. 
The convicts are principally employed in 
the mechanic arts. The County Prison, 
near the latter institution, is a neat edifice, 
with castellated towers and surmounted 
by a cupola. 

The Corn and Flour Exchange, on 
South Street, corner of Wood Street, is a 
substantial structure. 

Churches. — There are upward of one 
hundred and sixty churches, chapels, and 
religious meeting-houses in Baltimore, 
with accommodation for upward of 100,- 
000 persons. Of these, 44 are Methodist, 
20 are Episcopal, and the same number 
294 



Boman Catholic. The Presbyterians \mi< j 
15 places of worship, the Baptists 9, ^ii 
the Jews 6. ,. I 

The most imposing church edifice igi 
the Catholic Cathedral, corner of Cathe^l 
dral and Mulberry Streets. It is built oft 
granite, in the form of a cross, and is 190 J 
feet long, I'Z'Z broad at the arms of the ' 
cross, and 127 feet high, from the floortoi ; 
the top of the cross which surmounts flie \ 
dome. The building is v/ell hghted by: ! 
windows in the dome, which are concealed^i 
from the view of persons below. Atfte 
west end rise two tall towers, crowied. 
with Saracenic cupolas, resembling fte ' 
minarets of a Mohammedan niosqBe.f 
This church is said to have the laigprt;,: 
organ in the United States, having 6,j80, 
pipes and 36 stops. The interior is oiiiiH 
mented with two excellent paintiDp:i 
one, " The Descent from the Cross," |ifr], 
sented by Louis XVI.; the other, %t 
Louis burying his Ofiicers and Sol^' \ 
slain before Tunis," the gift of Chalesi. 
X., of France. This edifice though itfe; 
rior in architectural proportions and cist- 
ly ornamentation to many other of tiw 
Roman Catholic cathedrals and chuE 
in the Union, in the solidity of ita< 
struction and massive appearance 
celled by none. 

The P'irst Presbyterian Church, sitn 
at the corner of Madison and Park Sti( 
4S much admired for its simplicity!, . 
elegance of architectural finish. B iil 
constructed of free stone from the " Aljoi!; 
Quarries" of Xew Brunswick, in {Bk 
"Lancet Gothic" style of architectiiret.i 
and is one of the most elaborate sjIBd-) , 
mens of that order in the country. ■ It 
was commenced in 1855, under the to' [ 
perintendence of Mr. N. G. Starkweaflter,! 
and finished the following year, fb ' 
building is 131 feet in depth, exclusiflBiH'-; 
transept, and 87 feet wide. The tflWfl 
is 268 feet — the highest in the city;:Ai • 
interior is beautifully and appropris 
ornamented. 

The UnitaTian, C'/mrcA (First Indef 
ent), at the intersection of North Chsi 
and Franklin Streets, ranks next tO'thi^ 
above in architectural beauty. This edi? 
fice is 108 feet long and 78 wide. Ii 
front is a colonnade, consisting of fM 
Tuscan columns and two pilasters, wh^ 
form the arcades. Above, extendJD 



jiriMOEE.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Baltimore. 



d the pediment, is a cornice, decora- 

ith emblematic figures and inscrip- 

From the portico the entrance is 

ronze doors, in imitation of the Vati- 

ai|at Home — three conducting to the 

)or of the building, and two to the gal- 

ers. 

le Catholics, who are a numerous and 

ve thy part of the community, have in 

di :ion to the Cathedral various elegant 

hi3h edifices, among which may be 

Lieioned that of Sf. Alphonsus, at the 

oibr of Saratoga and Park Streets, 

li has a spire of 200 feet; and that 

Vincent de Paul, in N. Front Street. 

Chicrch (Episcopal), corner of 

loliment and Park Streets, is a fine 

men of the Gothic, in red sandstone. 

: by is another Episcopal church, 

jrothic, built of gray sandstone. St. 

s Church, at the corner of Charles 

Saratoga Streets, is a pleasing exam- 

F the Norman style ; $142,000 were 

ided in its construction. 

ARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, ETC. The 

it};3 well provided with institutions of 
leifolenee and charity. 

1e Maryland Hospital for the Insane 
icc hies an eminence on East Monument 
are;, in the eastern part of the city. It 
3 a|irge brick building, with three cupo- 
xs.\ Mount Hope Hospital, conducted by 
he listers of Charity, is in Madison 
itr(|;, near the northwestern limits of 
he ty. Near the University, in Lom- 
lar' Street, is the Baltimore Infirmary. 
t ij controlled by the Regents of the 
Jui rsity. In the western part of the 
ity s the Aged M^doirs' Home, a new 
nd [egant edifice ; near it a similar build- 
ng is been erected for aged men. 

T; Blind Asyhan (Maryland Institu- 
ion )r the Instruction of the Blind), on 
Ve: Saratoga Street, is a flourishing 
hai y, well worthy a visit. It was or- 
;aniid in 1853, previous to which date 
he lildrenwere maintained at the Penn- 
ylv lia Asylum, located in Philadelphia, 
;iid an annual appropriation from the 
larind Legislature. The cost of the 

'1 ig was about $27,000, and the num- 

ir.mates is limited to twenty. The 

c, of tlie accommodation alforded by 

tiis|stitutiou is quite inadequate to the 

lUrriH' and needs of these poor sufferers 

hrd;hout the city and State. 



The Church Home, formerly the old 
AVashington College, is situated on Broad- 
way, near Baltimore Street. It belongs 
to the Protestant Episcopal Church of 
the city, is superintended by a committee 
of ladies from the several Episcopal 
churches, and is endowed for the relief 
of the destitute, afflicted, and orphans. 
The elevated situation of this structure, 
in a healthy neighborhood, overlooking 
the city and bay, especially fits it for such 
a Home. 

The Orphan Asylums of St. Anthony 
(de Padua) and of St. Vincent cle Paul, 
the former on Canal, near Madison Street, 
and the latter No. 23 N. Front Street, are 
flourishing Roman Catholic institutions, 
with free schools attached. The House 
of Refuge and the city Almshouse are ad- 
mirably situated amidst attractive scenery 
near the Frederick turnpike, about two 
miles from the city. In addition to these, 
Baltimore contains numerous institutions 
for the relief and support of the poor, 
afiiicted, and friendless. 

Literary Institutions, etc. — The Uni- 
versity of Maryland is at the intersection 
of Green and Lombard Streets. The 
Medical Department of the University 
was founded in the year 1807. The Col- 
lege of loyola is at the corner of Madison 
and Calvert Streets. The Athcnceum, 
which is at the corner of Saratoga and 
St. Paul Streets, is occupied conjointly by 
the Mercantile Library Association, the 
Bcdiimore Library, and the Maryland 
Hist. Society. The Library of the Mer- 
cantile Association numbers nearly 20,000 
volumes; the Baltimore Library 15,000, 
and the collection of the Historical Soci- 
ety upward of 1,000. It is in the gal- 
lery of the Historical Society that the an- 
nual exhibitions of pictures are held. 
Admission to these libraries from 10 a. m. 
to 10 p. M. 

The Peabody Institute, corner of Charles 
and Monument Streets, founded by George 
Peabody, the eminent London banker, is 
a massive structure of white marble, re- 
cently completed. It is designed for lit- 
erary and scientific purposes, and will when 
fully endowed contain a library and fine 
arts gallery. The Lecture-Room is ad- 
mirably constructed, and has sittings for 
700 pei'sons. 

The St. Mary's College, a Roman Cath- 
295 



n 



Baltimore.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Baltiuo^iISx 



olic theological institution, founded 1*799, 
is at the corner of Franklin and Greene 
Streets. McKini's Free School, on East 
Baltmiore Street, was founded by the lib- 
erality of the late Isaac McKim 

The Marj/Icaid College of Pharmacy, 
No. 47 N. Calvert Street. Lectures on 
Pharmacy, Chemistry, and Materia Med- 
ica during the winter months. 

Theatres, etc. — Holiday Street Theatre, 
in Holiday Street, two squares from Bar- 
num's Hotel, is the well-known and popu- 
lar resort of theatre-goers in Baltimore. 
It is worthy of remembrance that it is 
the oldest temple of the Drama in the 
United States. The first theatrical enter- 
tainments given in Baltimore were con- 
ducted in a frame building, erected about 
the year 1*780. The present structure 
was opened May 10, 1814, under the 
management of Messrs. Wood & Warren. 
It was enlarged and remodelled in 1854 
at an expense of $50,000. It is under 
the management of Mr. J. T. Ford, and 
has accommodations for 1,500 persons. 

Front Street {American) Theatre, in 
Front Street near Gay. 

The Concordia (German), on S. Eutaw, 
is a well-conducted establishment. Buf- 
fet, lunch, and billiard rooms attached. 
Admission to the latter through a mem- 
ber of the society. The Museum is on the 
corner of Baltimore and Calvert Streets. 
Like "Barnum's" in New York, it serves 
to gratify the juvenile dramatic taste. 

The New Casino (Melodeon) is on Bal- 
timore Street (comic songs and minstrel- 
sy). The New Assembly Rooms, the fash- 
ionable lecture and concert rooms of the 
city, are at the intersection of Hanover 
and Lombard Streets. 

Carroll Hall, at the corner of Balti- 
more and Calvert Streets, also contains 
spacious lecture and exhibition rooms. 

The Halls of the fraternities of Masons 
and Odd Fellows, the former in the 
Gothic, the latter in the Grecian style of 
architecture, are conspicuous buildings. 

Parks, Squares, etc. — Druid Hill Park 
is a noble pleasance of 550 acres, pleas- 
antly situated in the northern suburbs of 
the city. It was opened in October, 1861, 
and abounds in venerable trees and beau- 
tiful shrubbery. It is easily reached from 
Baltimore Street by Madison Avenue cars. 

Union Square is a pleasant resort, em- 
296 



bracing an area of between two and thrjl 
acres, at the head of West Lombarf 
Street. It was laid out in 1851 ; a spring 
of most delicious water flows from % 
centre of the square. ^' 

Franklin Square, corner of Faytijle 
and Carey Streets ; and Jackson Square 
on Hampstead Street, east of Broadway. 

Patterson Park, on East Baltimore 
Street, contains 36 acres, and embraces 
the earthworks thrown up for defence of 
the city in the war of 1812. The % 
Spring, on North Calvert Street, near 
Saratoga, enclosed by an iron railing, and 
surrounded by umbrageous elm-trees, is 
an inviting retreat for the thirsty pedtg. 
trian during the heats of summer. Nflm 
this spring is the Armistead monument^ 
before referred to. 

Federal Hill. — From the Signal Houge 
on this eminence a fine, pei'haps the beflt, 
view of the city and surroundings is to be 
had. ° j| 

Cemeteries. — Green Mount Cam- 
tery is a charming rural spot, abou^ 
mile and a half from Battle Monument, 
The stone gateway, forming the entranoe, 
at the junction of Belvidere Street and 
York Avenue, and the chapel, are miiiih 
admired. It was incorporated in 183?. 
The cost of grounds and iniprovemeDts 
exceeds a quarter of a million dollaM. 
City office, No. 1 Courtland Street. 

Loudon Park Cemetery, on the Fredte- 
erick road, about two miles from the 
city, is another charming City of the 
Dead. The grounds, which embrace 100 
acres of land, are of diversified characten 
and admirably adapted for the purposes 
of sepulture. The gateway is an iin- 
posing structure 72 feet wide. City offite, 
56 W. Fayette. Mount Olivet, on fe 
Frederick pike, is a pretty rural burying- 
ground. An enclosure similar in extflnt 
to that of Loudon Park, known as the 
Baltimore Cemetery, is reached by taking 
North Gay Street to the limits. There 
are other burial-grounds in and near 
Baltimore, two of which are known as 
Moimt Carmel and the Western, but tiiej 
will hardly repay a visit after you hais 
seen Green Mount and Loudon Park. '" 

Drives, Walks, etc. — North Point,ii 
the mouth of the Patapsco, was the 
scene of a memorable battle, September 
12, 1814, between the Americans, un- 



Umoee.] MARYLAND, 

(pjeneral Stryker, and the British, un- 
irlJeneral Ross, in which the former 
jr, defeated, and the latter lost three 
■nijianders. On the following day, 
■p tnber 13th, Fort McHenry was bom- 
inid for tweuty-four hours, by sixteen 
iip| and a land force of 1,200 men. 
lefesailants were repulsed, and the for- 
esleft in the possession of its defend- 

'3. 

Tjs engagement at North Point and 
irlllcHenry is duly celebrated in Balti- 
orjpn each recurring anniversary, and 
:e jittle Monument, already described, 
asfected in commemoration thereof. 

Gjansiown, four miles from the city, 
1 tl York road, has a well-kept hotel. 
.\ejold Sprinff House is passed on the 
ay. A line of street cars extends to 
.)\vlntown, three miles beyond. 

Fcr miles on the Philadelphia road is 
le ilage of Kingsville and the Herring 
'««i favorite spot for gudgeon fishing. 

FU McHenry, at the entrance to the 
irll, and distant about three miles 
omlhe centre of the city, ought not to 
3 fcfcotten by the visitor to Baltimore. 

ispilt on the extremity of a peninsu- 

fo 
itli 
loci'S: 



[Baltimore. 



led on one side by the harbor and 
other by the Patapsco River. It 
sfully resisted the bombardment of 



le Ijitish fleet in 1814. 



Fi 



'iklin, five miles from Baltimore, 



T(iv\\. well-shaded, well-laid turnpike 

id a tractive landscape. A road leading 

itl'rest from Franklin brings the visitor 

e old Frederick turnpike. On this 

re Mount de Sales, the Convent of 

itation, and St. Timothy's Hall. Re- 

l cityward, a number of beautiful 

V seats are passed. 

Byjrossing the Patapsco River at the 

lot I Light Street, the stranger will be 

[forijd an opportunity of visiting the 

ubi) city of Brooklyn, in the adjoin- 

Lg cl.nty of Anne Arundel. 

Arlng the promenades and rambles of 

le QT, Baltimore Street, west of Jones 

alls is perhaps the most attractive. 

1 it e located the principal retail stores, 

ither repair those of both sexes 

ike " shopping " the great business 

W'k-day life. 

" Sun" Building, on the corner of 
lie and South Streets, has the first 
out erected in the city. It is a 



nd 
hoi 



large and highly ornamented structure. 
The " Sun " newspaper is issued daily and 
weekly from this building. The exten- 
sive news and periodical depot of Henry 
Taylor & Co. adjoins the Sun office on 
the east. The ofiice of the "American," 
the leading Republican journal of the 
State, is on the opposite side of Baltimore 
Street, west of South Street. Bendann 
Brothers, the eminent photographers, oc- 
cupy commodious rooms at No. 207. 
Gallery open from 10 to 5. Well-executed 
pictures and views of the public build- 
ings can be procured at this establish- 
ment. The largest and richest assort- 
ment of watches, jewelry, and silver ware, 
is to be found at the establishment of 
Messrs. Canfield, Brother & Co., No. 229 
Baltimore Street. 

North Charles Street and Avenue are 
also pleasant promenades. In Mount Ver- 
non Place, and the vicinity of the Monu- 
ment, are some handsome residences. 
This constitutes the Belgravia of Balti- 
more, the favorite resort of the city's 
"best society." 

East Baltimore Street and Broadway, 
in the other end of the city, afford pleasant 
promenades. Crossing Jones Falls at 
the foot of Baltimore Street, the Church 
of St. Vincent de Paul and the cupola of 
the Front Street Theatre are seen north 
of the bridge. Proceeding eastward, the 
visitor will pass the Second Presbyterian 
Church, a fine Gothic structure, corner of 
Baltimore and Lloyd Streets, and many 
handsome residences, until he reaches 
Broadway, the boulevard of the East End. 
Turning southward, down Broadway, he 
can visit the Methodist, Presbyterian, and 
St. Patrick's Churches ; and further on the 
Fell's Point market house. The passen- 
ger depot building, and offices of the Balti- 
more & Ohio R. R. in Camden Street, be- 
tween Eutaw and Howard Streets, present 
an imposing appearance. The main front 
on Camden Street is upward of 300 feet 
long, and is one of the finest structures of 
the kind on the continent. The passen- 
ger depots of the Northern Central Rail- 
way, in Calvert Street, and of the Phil., 
Wil. & Bait. Railway in President Street, 
are large and costly structures. 

Tlie Shot Toiver, on the corner of Front 
and Fayette Streets, is a prominent ob- 
ject, and one which always elicits the 
297 



Baltimore.] 



MARYLAND. 



[ViCINW?. 



altentioii of the stranger. It is 246 feet 
liigli, and contains over one million bricks. 

Car and Stage Routes, Ferries, etc. — 
Car and sta.ge routes are laid in all the 
principal streets and avenues, and almost 
every object of interest mentioned in the 
foregoing pages is readily reached by 
this means. 

The following are the main lines of the 
City Passenger Railway : 

South Baltimore, from Baltimore at the 
intersection of Gay Street, to Light 
Street terminus, every ten minutes. 

Korth Baltimore, from Baltimore cor- 
ner Nortli Street, to end of Charles Street, 
every ten minutes. 

Franklin Square, from Baltimore Street 
West End, to Baltimore Cemetery, every 
five minutes. 

Madison Avenue, from Thames Street, 
East Baltimore to city limits, every five 
minutes. 

Canton line connects at Thames Street 
and runs to East City boundary at Canton. 

Pennsylvania Avenue, from city limits 
to Gay Street, every ten minutes. 

Running time. Summer 6 a. m., Winter 
6|- A. M. till midnight. General ofSce 
corner Baltimore and Eutaw Streets. 

Yorh Road, from corner Baltimore and 
North Streets every hour, from 7 a. m. to 

6 p. M. excepting 12 ii., connecting at 
North Avenue ; returning, leave Towson- 
town same hours. Time to Towsontown, 

7 miles, 1 h. 15 min. 

Catonsville and jEllieoifs Mills, hourly 
from 7 A. M. to 8 p. m., terminus City Pas- 
senger Railway ; time to Catonsville, 6 
miles, one hour. 

For such as prefer their own mode of 
conveyance, the livery stables and hack- 
men of the city aiford ample accommo- 
dation at reasonable rates. 

Stages run daily to Long Greene, 
Frauklintown, and Pikesville, and tri- 
weekly to Bel-air and Kellville (see Wood's 
City Directory, for points and time of de- 
parture). 

The rates of hack and coach fare in 
Baltimore are regulated by law, and pen- 
alties for over-charging are rigidly en- 
forced. 

Federal Hill Ferry, from City Block, 
foot of West Falls Avenue. 

Locust Point Ferry, from foot of Broad- 
way. 

298 



Expresses. — Adams' (freight and pack- 
age). — 164 W. Baltimore. 

McClintock's (baggage). — South End 
B. & 0. R. R. Depot. 

Renshaw's. — Northern Central Depot. 

Donaldson's. — President Street Depot. 

Telegraph Ofeices. — People's line, 23 
South Street. U. S. line, 21 South Street. 
American, comer North and Baltimore 
with branches at the principal hotels. 

VICINITY. 

The river and shore scenery in the 
neighborhood of Baltimore oflf'ers great 
attractions to tourists and sportsmen. 

The Paiapsco River flows, 70 miles, 
from Carroll County, in the northern part .: 
of the State, to the Chesapeake Bay, which 
it enters 15 miles below the city of Balti- 
more. It is navigable as far as Baltimore 
for large merchant ships. It is a rapid 
stream, and is much utilized as a water- 
power. The Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
way is built along the whole extent of the 
western branch of the river. 

The Susquehanna River enters the 
northeast corner of the State, not far 
from its debouclie into the Chesapeake Bay 
at Havre de Grace. It is foi-med by the 
union of two branches, known as the 
east and west branches, which unite at 
Northumberland, 60 miles above Harris- 
burg, Pa. The main stream is 150 miles 
in length, and is adorned by numerous 
beautiful islands and rocky rapids. 

The Potomac River forms the boundar) 
line between Maryland and Virginia 
Along its passage of 350 miles, from thi 
mountains to the Chesapeake Bay, thereii 
much beautiful and varied scenery. Th' 
landscape at its confluence with the Shec 
andoah, near Harper's Ferry, Virginia 
has long been famous among the chie 
picturesque wonders of America. Tli 
Falls of the Potomac, about 14 ini!< 
above Georgetown, D. C, will repay 
visit. The principal cascade is betwee. 
30 and 40 feet perpendicular pitch, ar, 
the rocky cliffs on the Virginia side (ii 
the river have a very impressive aspec 
This river is navigable for ships of t!; 
line 200 miles to the Yt^ashington Na" 
Yard. At Alexandria, Va., 9 miles beh 
the Capital, the river is more than a in 
wide, and nearly 8 miles wide at its conf 



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nni 



ury ago ; genuine " first families," with 
il pedigrees, hung up in the weather- 
icd halls of antediluvian homes; ma- 
homesteads, with big doors ever 
and surrounded with lordly acres. 



to form a just idea of the wonderful niul^' 
titudes and numberless varieties of ducks 
that darken these v/aters, and hover in 
interminable flocks over these famed feed- 
ing-grounds. It is not, however, the va- 
299 














^'('Jf OS' 






ames toi- -oveRniargingnare -iTgiai;^ ^"^ 
forced. 

Federal Hill Ferry, from City Block, 
foot of West Falls Avenue. 

Locust Point Ferry, from foot of Broad- 
way. 

298 



T iie rivei n are a very luspicsaiyr:-— ^ 
This river is navigable for ships oMv 
line 200 miles to the Washington Ma 
Yard. At Alexandria, Va., 9 miles DeH 
the Capital, the river is more than a iti 
wide, and nearly S miles wide at its com 



1 



lESAPEAKE Bay.] 



MARYLAND. 



[CmtsAPEAKE Bay. 



<pe with the Chesapeake. Independent 
< its many and varied natural attractions, 
i s noble river is invested with an interest 
■'lieh will forever render it attractive, 
1 1 only to every student of history, but 
i o to »very lover of his country. The 
■*" ( esapeake and Ohio Canal is construct- 
( along the north branch of this river, 
Ipween Georgetown, D. C, and Cumber- 
lid, Maryland. 

iThe Chesapeake Bay is the great high- 
^ y from Baltimore to the Atlantic, which 
i enters between Capes Charles and Hen- 
I in Virginia. It is the largest bay in 
t '. United States, its length being about 
5 ) miles, with a breadth varying from four 
t forty miles. Its depth permits the 
\ isage of the largest ships nearly to the 
I nth of the Susfpiehauna, at its upper 
c remity. Its shores are profusely in- 
' c ited with arms or estuaries of the odd- 
€ shapes, and with the mouths of tri))u- 
t y rivers and creeks, which abound in 
f I. The region drained by the Chesa- 
f ike and its tributaries embraces an area 
C 70,000 square miles. Among the priu- 
c al of these tributaries are the Susque- 
bma, Patapsco, and Potomac, already 
nntioned; the James, and Rappahan- 
r;k, the Elk, Choptank, Chester, Nanti- 
c ;o, and Pocomoke, smaller rivers, are all 
r re or less navigable. 

riie waters of the Chesapeake cut off 
a irge portion of Maryland, and further 
d\u the coast a little slice of Virginia 
the east. This severed portion of the 
D inland is known as the Eastern Shore 
Maryland and of Virginia. These dis- 
ts, in the aside position which they thus 
upy out of the great current of the 
ional life, invite the traveller by their 
que specialties of social habit and char- 
ur. Railway enterprises, city lot ma- 
and other "general orders" of the 
, by which the thought and manner 
he country are dragooned into univer- 
uniform, and hurried along at forced 
•eh, have not yet entered these by- 
3cs. Indeed, there may still be found 
hem, intact, much of the feeling, opin- 
and life of the "Old Dominion" of a 
tury ago ; genuine " first families," with 
ul pedigrees, hung up in the weathcr- 
iied halls of antediluvian homes; ma- 
id homesteads, with big doors ever 
ojiiu, and surrounded with lordly acres. 



The retinues of hereditary dependants, 
liowevcr, are gone, with the abolition of 
the slave system ; they and many of the 
customs and usages of society in this lo- 
cality have disappeared. The Eastern 
Shore, both in its material and social as- 
pect, is much chtuiged since " the good old 
times" the eai'ly settlers were wont to 
boast of before the war, but not altggeth- 
er for the worse. Here is yet preserved 
the old, exploded idea, that the present 
hour, as well as' the future, is worth the 
caring for, and life is considered a thing 
to be enjoyed, not in anticipation alone, 
but as it passes, day by day. 

Let the business man, care-v.'orn and 
wearied, slip down from New York, Phila- 
delphia, or Baltimore by one of the way 
steamers on the Chesapeake ; let him land 
lazily at ancient Accomac, or thereabouts, 
and forget for a little while the wrinkling 
perplexities of cabinets and commerce, 
in the quiet pleasures of simple domes- 
tic life within doors, and the genial recre- 
ations to which he will be bidden without. 

These waters, with their ti'ibutary 
streams, are among the most famous re- 
sorts in the United States for every spe- 
cies of aquatic game. Birds of all feath- 
ers are drawn hither in marvellous num- 
bers by the abundance of food found on 
the great Sats or shoals along the shores 
and upon the river inlets. 

" Atiove, around, in numerous flocks are seen 
Long lines of ducks o'er this their fav'rite 
scene." 

" There is," says Dr. Lewis, in his Amer- 
ican Sportsman, "no place in our wide 
extent of country, where wild-fowl shoot- 
ing is followed with so much ardor as on 
the Chesapcalce Bay and its tributaries, 
not only by those who make a comfort- 
able living from the business, but also by 
gentlemen who resort to these waters 
from all parts of theadjoining States to 
participate in the enjoyments of this far- 
famed ducking ground. All species of 
wild-fowl come here in numbers beyond 
credence, and it is really necessary for a 
stranger to visit the region, if he wishes 
to form a just idea of the wonderful mul- 
titudes and numberless varieties of ducks 
ihat darken these waters, and hover in 
interminable flocks over these famed feed- 
ing-grounds. It is not, however, the va- 
299 



Chesapeake Bat.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Chesapeake Bat. 



riety or extraordinary numbers of ducks 
on the Chesapeake that particularly at- 
tract the steps of so many shooters to 
these parts, as there are other rivers and 
streams equally accessible where wild- 
fowl also abound. But the great magnet 
that makes these shores the centre of at- 
traction, is the presence of the far-famed 
Canvass-Back, that here alone acquires its 
peculiar delicacy of flavor, while feeding 
upon the shores and flats of these waters." 

"The canvass-backs," says Dr. Sharp- 
less, of Philadelphia, in a paper contribu- 
ted to Audubon's Birds of America, "pass 
up and down the bay, from river to river, 
in their morning and evening flights, giv- 
ing, at certain localities, great opportuni- 
ties for destruction. They pursue, even 
in their short passages, very much the 
order of their migratory movements, fly- 
ing in a line of baseless triangle: and 
when the wind blows on the points which 
may lie in their course, the sportsman has 
great chance of success. These points 
or courses of the ducks are materially af- 
fected by the winds ; for they avoid, if 
possible, an approach to the shore ; but 
when a strong breeze sets them on to 
these projections of the land, they are 
compelled to pass within shot, and often 
over the land itself. 

" In the Susquehanna and Elk Bivers 
there are few of these points for shoot- 
ing, and there success depends on ap- 
proaching them while on their feeding- 
grounds. After leaving the eastern point 
at the mouth of the Susquehanna and 
Turkey Point, the western side of the Elk 
River, which are both moderately good 
for flying shooting, the first place of much 
celebrity is the Narrows, betv/een Spesu- 
tic Island and the western shore. These 
Narrows are about three miles in length, 
and from three to five hundred yards in 
breadth. 

"By the middle of November, the can- 
vass-backs, in particular, begin to feed in 
this passage, and the entrance and outlet, 
as well as many intermediate spots, be- 
come very successful stations. A few miles 
down the western shore is Taylor's Island, 
which is situated at the mouth of the 
Rumney and Abbey Island at the mouth 
of Bush River, which are both celebrated 
for ducks, as well as for swans and geese. 
These are the most northerly points where 
300 



large fowl are met with, and projectingi 
out between deep coves, Avhere immense 
numbers of these birds feed, theyposseBa* 
great advantages. The south point of 
Bush River, Legoe's Point, and Roljbins'i 
and Pickett's Points, near Gunpowder' 
River, are famous localities. Immediate-i 
ly at the mouth of this river is situated i 
Carroll's Island, which has long been.- 
known as a gi-eat shooting-ground. Mas-; 
well's Point, as well as some others up I 
other rivers, and even further down thet ' 
bay, are good places, but less celebrated i { 
than those mentioned. Most of theaeij 
places are let out as shooting-grounds for ) ! 
companies and individuals, and are ea- -. \ 
teemed so valuable that intruders are se- ] 
verely treated." ' 

Norfolk, Virginia, on the Elizabeths : 
River, at the lower extremity of the bay,.; 
is the depot for the receipt and sale of 
the game taken in the Chesapeake, and i; 
there the best purchases can be made .'■ 
The sport, as all who have joined in it full i: 
well know, is not without its difiicultieB i 
and its dangers. Says the learned Doctor '. 
from whom we have already quoted : | 

"Notwithstanding the apparent facll- ■ 
ities that are offered of success, tbC'l 
amusement of duck-shooting is probably ii' 
one of the most exposing to cold and wet; t 
and those who undertake its enjoyment ■ 
without a courage ' screwed to the stick- '. 
ing-point,' will soon discover that 'to one h 
good a thousand ills oppose.' It is, ij^i 
deed, no parlor sport; for, after creeping • 
through mud and mire, often for hundreds ' 
of yards, to be at last disappointed, andi! 
stand exposed on points to the ' pelting ii 
rain or more than freezing cold,' for I' 
hours, v/ithout even the promise of a i 
shot — would try the patience of eT@ <i 
Franklin's 'glorious nibbler.' It is, ho#f ■ i 
ever, replete with excitement and chana. 'i 
To one who can enter on the pleasure ' ; i 
with a system formed for polar cold, and i ' 1 
a spirit to endure the weary toil of many i' I 
a stormy day, it will yield a harvest of I 
health and delight that the roamer of the i I 
woods can rarely enjoy." i 

The voyage down the Chesapeake from > . i 
Baltimore to Norfolk, provided it be made v I 
in pleasant weather, is a delightful trip, i, a 
The steamers of the Old (Bay) and New : 
Lines make trips daily, running through a 
in twelve hours. I ' 



KAPEABa: Bay.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Balt. & Ohio Railway. 



e points of chief interest seen in the 
laAge of the bay, are the embouchure 
)f lie Patapsco River and the battle- 
d of North Point, near Baltimore, 
nc^eferred to in our mention of that 
■it}' the Bodkin, three miles distant; the 
iaii)r of Annapolis, 15 miles still below; 
man the distance, the dome of the ven- 
:ra'j Capitol inv/hich " Washington, the 
;re and good, set the seal to his sincer- 
ty, ad finished the edifice of his glory, 
»}' I luntarily surrendering his conquer- 
ng word to the civil authority of his 
ou ry." At the lower end of the bay 
■re e famous fortifications of Fort Mon- 
oe id the Rip Raps, protecting the en- 
rai! to Hampton Roads and James 
liv It is a charming route, also, to 
licliond, turning at or near Norfolk, 
II to le mouth of the James River, and 
ulk ing the many devious miles of those 
diKig and picturesque waters. (See 
liaj ;r on Virginia, for James River.) 

P' variety of picturesque landscape 
ecu y, combined with the scarcely less 
npi tant considerations and attractions 
f iimorable historic association and 
omiience of travel, the Baltimore and 
• lii( Railroad aflfords a route which no 
ue laking the Southern tour should 
lil 1 take. 

Ii] xtent, commercial importance, and 
ict< al attraction, this great route is 
ue I the most important and interesting 
1 A erica. It unites the city of Balti- 
lOi'dvith the waters and valley of the 
hioit Wheeling, 3*79 miles away, mak- 
ig (8 of the pleasantest and speediest 
f tl great highways from the Atlantic 
) t Mississippi States. Its whole 
ourlis through a region of the highest 
ictrfesque variety and beauty, and it 

it;i a work of the highest artistic 
;lii(|ement in the continual and extra- 
y display of skill which the singu- 
iculties of the way have called 

tbi It claims, too, especial considera- 
id reflects the greatest honor upon 
le Site of Maryland and its beautiful 
leti lolis of Baltimore — as the first rail- 
ay . America which was built by an 
icoiprated company, and without the 
?Bis ace of the public purse. 

Tt corner-stone of the road was laid 
t a ^ y early period in the history of rail- 
ays July 4, 1828, was the day chosen 



for the auspicious event, and on the 30th 
of August, 1830, the first section was open- 
ed by steam-power, 14 miles, from Balti- 
more to Ellicott's Mills. The trial of the 
first engine was made on the 25th of 
August of that year. On the 1st of June, 
1853, the entire route, of nearly 400 
miles, was completed, and on the 10th of 
January a formal opening of the road 
was made by a through excursion, with 
great public fetes and rejoicings. 

It suffered severely during the late war 
from the destruction of its track, bridges, 
and rolling-stock. On the 16th of May, 
1861, several bridges were destroyed and 
portions of the track torn up. June 14th, 
the costly bridge at Harper'^s Ferry was 
wholly destroyed ; and on the 23d of the 
same month no less than 46 locomotive 
engines and upwards of 300 cars, val- 
ued at nearly half a million dollars, were 
burned by order of the Confederate Gen- 
eral, Joseph E. Johnston. With the en- 
terprise which has always characterized 
the management of this road, these dam- 
ages have all been made good, and the 
road is now in the best order possible. 

To see it, and the numerous points and 
objects of interest tributary to it, the 
traveller should be prepared to spend at 
least three days between Baltimore .and 
Wheeling ; a fortnight might be profitably 
and pleasantly passed in making the en- 
tire distance and returning. 

Leaving the city, we cross the 

Carrolllon Viaduct, a fine bridge of 
dressed granite, with an arch of 80 feet 
span, over Crwynii's Falls, after which the 
road soon reaches the long and deep ex- 
cavation under the Washington Turnpike, 
which is carried over the railroad by the 
Jackson Bridge. Less than a mile further 
the "deep cut" is encountered, famous 
for its difficulties in the early history of 
the road. It is '76 feet in extreme depth, 
and nearly half a mile in length. Beyond 
this the road crosses the deep ravine of 
Robert's Run, and, skirting the ore banks 
of the old Baltimore Iron Company, now 
covered by a dense forest of cedar-trees, 
comes to the long and deep embankment 
over the valley of Gadsby^s Run, and 
the heavy cut through Vinegar Hill im- 
mediately following it. 

The Relay House, eight miles from the 
inner station, is next reached, where, as 
301 



Relay House.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Feederick, 



the name imports, there was a change of 
horses during the period in which those 
animals furnished the motive power of 
tlie road. Here diverges the branch of 
tlie Baltimore and Ohio Railroad to Wash- 
ington City, which we shall have occasion 
to speak of in our journey southward 
from Baltimore. 

At this point the open country of sand 
and clay ends, and the region of rock 
begins at the entrance to the gorge of 
the Patapsco River. In entering this 
defile, you have a fine view of the T/iomas 
Viaduct (named after the first Presi- 
dent of the Company), a noble granite 
structure of eight elliptic arches, each of 
about 60 chord, spanning the stream at a 
height of 66 feet above the bed, and of 
a total length of some YOO feet. The 
pretty village of Elkridge Landing is in 
sight, and upon the surrounding heights 
are seen a number of pleasant country 
seats. 

The road now pursues its devious 
course up the river, passing the Avalon 
Iron Works, a mile beyond the Relay 
House, and coming, in a couple of miles 
further, to the Patterson Viaduct, a fine 
granite bridge of four arches, two of 55 
and two of 20 feet- span. This bridge 
crosses the river at the Ilchester Mills, sit- 
uated at a very rugged part of the ravine. 
The Thistle Cotton Factory appears im- 
mediately beyond, and soon after Gray's 
Cotton Factory. 

Proceeding westward, we reach EUi- 
cotts Mills, 14- miles from Baltimore, an 
exceedingly picturesque little town, in 
a bold, rocky passage of the Patapsco. It 
contains a newspaper-office, bank, several 
churches, and a population of 1,500. The 
Frederick Turnpike road passes through 
the town here, and is crossed by the 
railroad upon the Oliver Viaduct, a hand- 
some stone bridge of three arches, each 
of 20 feet span. Just beyond this bridge 
is the Tarpeiari Rock, a bold, msulated 
mass of granite, betv/een which and the 
body of the cliff the railroad edges its 
way. 

The road soon after comes in sight of 
the Elysville Factory buildings, where it 
crosses the river upon a new viaduct of 
three iron spans, each of 110 feet, and 
almost immediately upon another of sim- 
ilar length. Thence it follows the various 
302 



windings of the stream to the Forh 
25 miles from Baltimore. Passin" the 
Marriottsville limestone quarries near the 
station of that name, the road crosses 
the Patapsco by an iron bridge 50 feet i 
span, and dashes through a sharp spur 
of the hill by a tunnel 400 feet Ion" . 
in mica slate rock. After passing one 
or two rocky hills at Hood's Mill, it 
leaves the granite region and enters upon • 
the gentle slopes of the slate hills, among 
which the river meanders until we reach 
the foot of Parvus Ridge, which divides 
the waters of the Patapsco from those of 
the Potomac. 

From the summit of the i-idge at the 
Mount Airy Station, 44 miles from Balti- 
more, is a noble view westward across 
the Fredericktown Valley, and as far as tht 
Catoctin Mountain, some 15 miles dis- 
tant. The road thence descends the val- 
ley of Bush Creek, a stream of moderate 
curves and gentle slopes, with a few ex- 
ceptions, where it breaks through some 
ranges of trap rocks, which inteipose 
themselves among the softer shales, i 
The Monrovia and Ijamsville Stations are 
passed at Bush Creek. The slates ter- 
minate at the Monocacy River, and the 
limestone of the Fredericktown Valley 
commences. That river is crossed byai 
wooden bridge of three spans, 110 feel 
each, and elevated about 40 feet abovt 
its bed. 

The Valley of the Monocacy is equallj 
remarkable for its beauties of position 
its rich agricultural resources, and it.'. 
mineral wealth. 

At Monocacy, the traveller will pas: 
the hatlle-ground where, on the 9th ol 
July, 1864, Gen. Lew. Wallace and tlnl , 
Federal forces were defeated by a supeii 
or Confederate force, and compelled t' 
retreat to Baltimore. Subsequent deve' 
opments have rendered it probable tlia 
the gallant stand made at the Monocac 
Bridge on that day by Gen. Wallace, an 
the heavy loss that he inflicted on tb: 
enemy, saved Washington from captui] 
on the 12th. 

From Monocacy a branch road extenti 
three miles north to Frederick, the coui- 
ty seat of Frederick County and the ce:- 
tre of one of the most fertile, populou ' 
and wealthy sections of the State. It 
the third city of Maryland in populatio 



INT OF Rocks.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Harper's Ferry. 



alth, and trade. Besides a handsome 
urt-house, it contains numerousc hurch 
ifices, Uvo newspaper offices, and sever- 
large factories.. Some popular Catholic 
ucatioual establishments, among them 

John's College, are located here. 
From the Monocacy to the Point of 
)cks, the road, having escaped from the 
rrow, winding valleys to which it has 
is far been confined, bounds away over 

beautiful champaign country lying be- 
een that river and the Catoctin Moun- 
lus. 

Ills range of mountains, a continua- 
of the Blue Ridge, runs west of Fred- 
:, due south, to the Point of Rocks, 
fcen this range and the South Moun- 
which slopes to the Potomac at 
sville, nestles Maryland's loveliest val- 
the valley of Catoctin, of which Mid- 
)wn, 10 miles from Frederick, is the 
t'e. A conspicuous elevation at the 
ination of the Catoctin range is 
vn as the Sugarloaf Mountain. 
he Point of Rocks is formed by the 
pi'ofile of the Catoctin Mountain, 
ist the base of which the Potomac 
r runs on the Maryland side, the 
ntain towering up on the opposite 
^^ rgiuia) shore forming the other bar- 
r. ■ of the pass. The railroad turns the 
p moutory by an abrupt curve, and is 
p tly cut out of the rocky precipice ou 
tl right, and partly supported on the in- 
side of the canal on the left by a 
le wall of considerable length. Two 
3S further another cliff occurs, accom- 
ied by more excavation and walling, 
ond, the ground becomes compara- 
ly smooth, and the railroad, leaving 
immediate margin of the river to the 
1, runs along the base of the gently 
ing hills, passing the villages of Bcr- 
nd Knoxville, and reaching the We- 
on Factoi'ies, in the pass to the South 
ntain. 

he Battle of South Mountain really 

menced at a bridge over Catoctin 

!k, half a mile west of Middletown, 

Confederate artillery had been 

ed to dispute the passage. After 

t desperate fighting, the crest of the 

was gained by the Federal troops and 

enemy driven into the valley on the 

side of the mountain. Turner^ s Gap, 

w] re the last desperate stand of the Con- 



M 



Ci 



PC 



federate right was made, is two miles from 
the base of the mountain. CrainptorCs 
Gap, through which passes the road from 
Jefferson to Roherville, is six miles south. 

From South Mountain to Harper''s Fer- 
ry, the road lies along the foot of a pre- 
cipice for the greater part of the distance 
of three miles, the last of which is immedi- 
ately under the rocky chffs of Elk Moun- 
tain, forming the north side of this noted 
pass. The Shenandoah River enters the 
Potomac immediately below the bridge 
over the latter, and their united currents 
I'ush rapidly over the broad ledges of 
rock which stretch across their bed. The 
length of the bridge is about 900 feet, 
and at its western end it divides into two, 
the left-hand branch connecting with the 
Winchester and Potomac Railroad, which 
passes directly up the Shenandoah, and 
the right-hand carrying the main road, by 
a strong curve in that direction, up the 
Potomac. The bridge consists of six 
arches of 130 and one arch of about Y5 
feet span over the river, and an arch of 
about 100 feet span over the canal ; all 
of which are of timber and iron, and cov- 
ered in, except the western arch connect- 
ed with the Winchester and Potomac 
Railroad, which is entirely of iron, ex- 
cepting the floor. This viaduct is not so 
remarkable for its length as for its pecu- 
liar structure, the two ends of it being 
curved in opposite directions, and bifur- 
cated at the western extremity. 

Harper''s Ferry and all its fine points 
of scenery are too well known to need 
elaborate description here. The pi-ecipi- 
tous mountains which rise from the water's 
edge leave little level ground on the river 
margin, and all of that is occupied by the 
United States Armory buildings. Hence 
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad has been 
obliged to build itself a road in the river 
bed for upwards of half a mile, along the 
outer boundary of the Government works, 
upon a trestle-work, resting 6n the side 
next the river upon an insulated wall of 
masonry, and upon the other side support- 
ed by strong iron columns placed upou the 
retaining wall of the Armory grounds. 

The town is delightfully situated at the 
confluence of the Potomac and Shenan- 
doah Rivers, in Jefferson County, Va., 160 
miles north of Richmond and 53 miles 
northwest of Washington. It is cora- 
303 



Harper's Ferry.] 



MARYLAND. 



[ANTiETjar^ 



pactly though irregularly built around 
the base of a hill. 

Besides the Armory, a National Arse- 
nal was located here. Both buildings, with 
nearly 15,000 stand of arms, were destroy- 
ed by fire, April ISth, 1861, on the ap- 
proach of the Virginia State troops. 
Southern troops soon occupied the town 
and adjacent heights, and by May 20th, 
the number of Confederate soldiers on 
the spot was estimated at 8,000. On the 
14th the point was evacuated. Previous 
to the war it was a prosperous trading- 
place, and was known in the early days of 
Virginia as Shenandoah Falls. It was 
once "the garden spot of Virginia ;" but 
war, though it has rendered it more inter- 
esting to the traveller, has, for the present 
at least, robbed it of its claim to the 
former distinction. It was the scene of 
the exploits which in October, 1859, ren- 
dered the name of John Brown, of Ossa- 
wattomie-Kansas notoriety, still more no- 
torious. Charlestown^ the county seat, 
where Brown and his followers were tried 
and executed, is seven miles distant, on 
the road to Winchester. Visitors to Har- 
per's Ferry should not f\ul to see the Mary- 
land Heights, Bolivar Heights, Loudon 
Heights, and the fortifications which have 
been erected on them. This was the the- 
atre of one of Stonewall Jackson's most 
•famous exploits, when Harper's Ferry was 
captured by the Confederates in Septem- 
ber, 1862. 

After passing the uppermost of the Ar- 
mory buildings, the road runs along the 
outer bank of the Chesapeake and Ohio 
Canal, which brings the water of the river 
to the woi'ks, and soon crosses this canal 
by a stone and timber bridge 150 feet 
span. Thence the road passes up the riv- 
er on the inner side of the canal, and op- 
posite the dam at its head, about one and 
three-quarters of a mile from the mouth of 
the Shenandoah, and pierces a projecting 
rock by a tunnel or gallery of 80 feet in 
■ length. 

The view down the river through this 
perforation is singulary picturesque, pre- 
senting the pass through the mountain at 
the confluence of the rivers in one of its 
most remarkable aspects. A short dis- 
tance above the tunnel, where the river 
sweeps gradually round to the eastward 
m the broad smooth sheet of water crea- 
304 



ted by the dam, the railroad leaves the 
Potomac and passes up the ravine oi Elk 
Branch, which presents itself at this point 
in a favorable direction. This ravine, at 
first narrow and serpentine, becomea 
wider and more direct, until it almost 
loses itself in the rolling table land which 
characterizes the " Valley of Virginia." 
The head of Elk Branch is reached in 
about nine miles, and thence the line de- 
scends gradually over an undulating 
champaign country, to the crossing of 
the " Opequa " Creek, which it passes by 
a stone and timber viaduct of 150 fe^ 
span and 40 feet above the water surfacft 
Beyond the crossing the road enters the 
open valley of Tuscarora Creek, which it 
crosses twice and pursues to the town of 
Martinsburg, 18 miles from Harper's 
Ferry. 

Kcarneysville, 11 miles west of H» 
per's Ferry, was the scene of many cavat 
ry fights between Generals Pleasanton, 
Averill, Custer, and Merritt, on the one 
side, and Fitz Lee and Stuart on the 
other. This part of the road, and indeed 
the whole region around Martinsburg, 
including that town itself, was occupi^ 
alternately at least fifteen times during the 
war, first by the Federal and then by the 
rebel soldiers, and battles were almost 
continually taking place in its vicinity. 

Aniietam, seven miles from Kcarneys- 
ville, is reached over the turnpike road to 
Sharpsburg. Tourists will find good c<a- 
veyance to the battle-field, where WM 
closed one of the most memorable cam- 
paigns of the war. The battle was fought 
on the ITth September, 1862, betweaa 
General McClellan and General Lee, acd» 
suited in the withdrawal of the forces of 
the latter across the Potomac on the fol- 
lowing day, and the virtual abandonment 
of further contest on the soil of Maryland 
Eight miles westward the train reaches 
Martinsburg, the end of the first division 
of the Baltimore and Ohio Eailroad, and 
(which is of vastly greater importance to. 
the hungry traveller) the Dinner Station. 

Martinsburff, the capital of Berkdej 
County, West Virginia, and a place of con- 
siderable trade, is pleasantly situated 100 
miles west of Baltimore, on Tuscarora 
Creek, a rapid stream, which afibrds fine 
manufacturing privileges. Here the trav- 
eller will find the scene of the most de- 



PSBUEG.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Doe Gully. 



ilive labors of the Confederate troops. 
vfs here, and near here, on the 23d 
nl 1861, that 8*7 locomotives and 40-0 
i.jjt cars, belonghig to the raih'oad corn- 
were collected by the rebel troops 
- Jackson's personal dh-ection, and 
rJd or destroyed ; little even of the 



of this terrible destruction is now 
seen. 



iValartinsburg the Tuscarora is bridge- 
ce, and the crossing east of the town 
made upon a viaduct of 10 spans of 
t each of timber and iron, support- 
bjtwo abutments and 18 stone columns 
Doric style. The architectural eflect 
structure is good. 

7-psburff, situate not far distant from 
est bank of Antietam Creek, 14 
south of Hagerstowu, owes its in- 
I'csl mainly to the great battle fought 
itpcinity. The town still bears many 
arl of the fight, the houses being per- 
rafl by shells, and defaced by Minie 
,11a The Lutheran and Episcopal 
luipes suffered so severely that they 
.vejad to be pulled dovi'n. The princi- 
1 |ject of interest, next to the battle- 
Jd self, a fine view of which it com- 
an , is the National Cemetery. The 
an riginated A^ith Govei'nor Bradford, 
IS ^proved by the General Assembly 
1^, and the grounds located on the 
;e ley now occupy upon the summit 
thmost prominent hill of the range 
lead by Lee for his line of battle, 
le lew is at once commanding and 
•aulul. 

W tward from Martinsburg the route 
r s en miles is continued over the open 
un f, alternately ascending and de- 
en( ig, until it strikes the loot of the 
[irt Mountain, crossing this by a long 
;ca tion, 63 feet deep, in slate rock, 
rom a depi'ession therein, passing out 
' thjvalley, having traversed its entire 
■ea(|i upon a line 26 tniles in length. 
1 iving these rich and well-tilled 
lulf (ve enter a poor and thinly-settled 
stri , covered chiefly with a forest in 
liiC: stunted pine prevails. The route 
Lcoiters a heavy excavation and em- 
mk ent for four or five miles from the 
art! Mountain, and crosses Back Creek 
)on stone viaduct of a single arch of 
> f( i span and 54 feet above the 
real The view of the Potomac Valley 



is magnificent as you approach the bridge, 
and extends as far as the distant moun- 
tain range of Sideling Hill, 25 miles to 
the west. The immediate margin of the 
river is reached at a point opposite the 
ruins of Fort Frederick, on the Maryland 
side, an ancient stronghold, erected more 
than a hundred years ago. 

From this point, thirty miles from 
Harper's Ferry, the route follows the 
Virginia shore of the river upon bottom 
lands, interrupted only by the rocky 
bluffs opposite Licking Creek, for ten 
miles to Hancock. The only considerable 
stream crossed in this distance is Sleepy 
Creek, which is compassed by a viaduct 
of two spans of 110 feet each. 

Six miles west of Hancock, the trav- 
eller reaches Sir Jolui's Run, the scene 
of much warlike preparation and activity 
during the early days of the rebellion, 
and the point of departure for the Berke- 
ley Springs. These famous springs are 
situated at the eastern base of the Warm 
Spring Ridge, two miles distant from the 
railway-station, and are the resort of 
much travel. The hotel is elegantly fitted 
up, lighted by gas, and is well kept dur- 
ing the season. Coaches await the ar- 
rival of the trains. 

Leaving Sir John's Run, the track 
sweeps around the tei'mination of the 
Cacapon Mountain, opposite the remark- 
able and insulated eminence called the 
" Round Top." Thence on to the cross- 
ing of the Great Cacapon River, nine and 
a half miles above Hancock, which is 
crossed by a bridge about 300 feet 
in length. Within the next mile it passes 
dam No. 6 of the Chesapeake and Ohio 
Canal, and soon after it enters the gap 
of Sideling Hill. 

The next point of interest reached 
is the Tunnel at Doe Gully. The 
approaches to this formidable work 
are very imposing, as for several miles 
above and below the tunnel they cause 
the road to occupy a high level on the 
slopes of the river hills, and thus afford 
an extensive view of the grand mountain 
scenery around. 

The Paw Paw Ridge Tunnel is next 
reached, 30 miles from Hancock, and 25 
miles below Cumberland. This tunnel is 
through a soft slate rock, and is curved 
horizontally with a radius of 750 feet. 
805 



Patterson's Creek,] 



MARYLAND. 



[CuilBEIttAHD, 



The viaduct over Little Cacapon Creek 
is 143 feet long. About five and a half 
miles further on, the south branch of the 
Potomac is crossed on a bridge 400 feet 
long. 

Some two miles above is a fine straight 
line over the ■uidely-expanded flats oppo 
site the ancient settlement of Old To-nm, 
in Maryland. These are the finest bottom 
lands on the Potomac, and from the 
upper end of them is obtained the first 
view of the Knobly Mountain, that re- 
markable range vrhich lies in a line with 
the town of Cumberlend, and is so singu- 
larly diversified by a profile which makes 
it appear like a succession of artificial 
mounds. Dari's Motintain towers over it, 
forming a fine background to the view. 
Soon after, the route passes the high 
clifts known by the name of Kelly'' s Rocks, 
where there has been a very heavy excava- 
tion. 

Patierson^s Creek, '70 miles west of 
Martiusburg, and eight miles east of 
Cumberland, is nest reached. Imme- 
diately below this stream is a lofty mural 
precipice of limestone and sandstone 
rock, singularly perforated in some of the 
ledges by openings which look like 
Gothic loopholes. The valley of this 
creek is very straight and bordered by 
beautiful flats. The viaduct over the 
stream is 150 feet long. Less than two 
miles above, and six miles from Cumber- 
land, the north branch of the Potomac is 
crossed by a viaduct TOO feet long, and 
rising in a succession of steps — embracing 
also a crossing of the Chesapeake and 
Ohio Canal. This extensive bridge car- 
ries us out of Virginia, and lands us 
once more in Maryland, which we left at 
Harper's Ferry. 

The route thence to Cumberland is 
across two bends of the river, between 
which the stream of Evett's Creek is 
crossed by a \'iaduct of 100 feet span. 

CaiMltoerlaild, on the Potomac 
Eiver, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, 
and the line of the Baltimore and Ohio 
Eailway, is 1*79 miles west of Baltimore. 
It is in the mountain region of the nar- 
row strip which forms the western part 
of the State, and in point of population 
and trade is its second city. 

It is the eastern terminus of the Great 
National Road leading to the Mississippi 
306 



River. It contains a court-house, countj 
prison, banks, and other public buildiD"s 
several handsome church edifices, three 
newspaper establishments, and a good 
hotel — the Revere House. 

The entrance to the town is beautiful, 
and displays the noble amphitheatre ia 
which it lies to great advantage, the gap i 
of Will's Mountain, westward of the town 
being a justly prominent feature of the 
view. 

The brick and stone viaduct over Will's i 
Creek is entitled to particular notice. It 
consists of 14 elliptical arches of 50 feet I 
span and 13 feet rise, and is a well-buill 
and handsome structure. 

Visitors for Bedford Springs, Virpiia, i 
leave the main line at Cumberland. 

From Cumberland to I'icdmont, 28 
miles, the scenery is remarkably pictur- ; 
esque, perhaps more so than upon any , 
other section of the road of similar length. ; 
For the first 22 miles, to the mouth of 
New Creek, the Knobly ilountain bounds i 
the valley of the North Branch of tiie 
Potomac on the left, and Will's and i 
Dan's Mountains on the right ; thence to 
Piedmont, the river lies in the gap whiA i 
it has cut through the latter mountain. 

CMmncii-Hole Hod; at the termination , 
of Fort Hill, is a singular crag, through i 
the base of which the Railroad Company -i 
have driven a tunnel under t'ne road to I 
answer the purpose of a bridge for serewl i 
streams entering the river at that point > 

The cliS's which occur at intervals 
during the first 10 miles after leaving 
Cumberland ; the wide bottom lands 
extending for the next four miles; the 
high rocky blufi's along Fort Hill, and the > 
grand mural precipice opposite to them, . 
on the Virginia shore, immediately belo» 
the "Black Oak Bottom," a celebrated 
farm embracing 500 acres in a single 
plain, between mountains of great height, 
are worthy the attention of the tourist 

The crossing of the Potomac, from the 
Maryland to the Virginia shore, is 21niilej ; 
from Cumberland, where the railrosd 
after passing through a long and deo" 
excavation, spans the river by a briJ. 
of timber and iron, on stone abutmem- 
and a pier. The view at this point, boii i, 
up and down the river, is very fine. Th* 
BulFs Head Moch, a mile beyond thb 
bridge, is a prominent object. 



iMET-HoLE Rock.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Cheat River. 



Piedmont, 206 miles west of Balti- 
oi the traveller reaches, ar. the name 
ip|s, the foot of the Alleghany Moun- 
inj This is the end of the second divi- 
)i]if the road, and here are located a 
it( and extensive machine-shops. The 
llij3 stands at the mouth of George 
e<l, and opposite is the ancient village 
];stenpDrt. 

V now commence the ascent of the 

lellianies. Passing up the valley of 

River, through the Everett Tunnel, 

e mouth of Crabtree Creek, where, 

rjitary parlance, the road turns the 

f the Great Backbone Mountain, 

i Ach Altamont, in Alleghany County. 

160 miles east of Parkersbui-g, the 

er finds himself at the surprising 

title of 2,'70O feet above the city of 

iltjiore, and upon the extreme summit 

Alleghanies. It is here that the 

ain streams divide, flowing in one 

on towards the Ohio River, the Mis- 

i, and the Gulf of Mexico, and in 

c (her towards the Potomac River, the 

j'jake Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean. 

n Altamont west-vvard, for a dis- 

..„ )f nearly twenty miles, are beautiful 

itu 1 meadows lying along the upper 

of the Youghiogheny (Y''oh-ho-g'a- 

ivcr, and its numerous tributaries, 

by ridges generally of moderate 

evilon and gentle slope, with fine ranges 

' mptains in the background. These 

eacps are known as the " Glades." 

Atbakland, nine miles beyond Alta- 

omjis the Glades Hotel, which some 

)et,|loubtlcss to the manor born, has 

)nold in the following Shakespearian 

Lra|rase : 

"ijs JwieZ hatli a pleasant seat, the air 
l^jibly and sweetly recommends itself 
tlo our gentle senses." Macbeth. 

Till Great and Little Youghiogheny, 
ose k, are famous trouting streams ; and 
e gdes and oak-clad hills in theneigh- 
)ih1d abound with game. 
Th crossing of the Great Youghio- 
icii River is by a viaduct of timber 
id iln — a single arch of 180 feet span 
'■ nn stone abutments. The site of 
structure is wild, the river run- 
, , ! I.' in a woody gorge. 
A lijv miles beyond Oaliland, the boun- 
iry pe between Maryland and Virguiia 
ore ed. 



Fi 



From Cranherry Summit, "the top> 
most round " of the Alleghanies, magnifi- 
cent views to the west are to be had. The 
descent of 11 miles to Cheat River pre- 
sents a-rapid succession of very heavy ex- 
cavations and embankments. At one 
point the road, after skirting a beautiful 
glade,enters a savage-looking pass through 
a deep forest of hemlocks and laurel thick- 
ets, the stream dashing over large rocks 
and washing the side of the road but a 
few feet below its level These are known 
as the Falls of Snowy Creek. There are 
also two tunnels, viz., the McGuire Tun- 
nel of 500, and the Rodemer Timnel of 
400 feet in length, secured by the most 
durable arches of stone and brick. There 
is also a stone and iron viaduct over Salt 
Lick Creek 50 feet span and 50 feet high. 
The creek passes through a dense forest 
of fir-trees in its approach to the river. 

Cheat River is a dark, rapid mountain 
stream, whose waters are of a curious cof- 
fee-colored hue, owing, it is said, to its ris- 
ing in forests of laurel and black spruce 
on the highest mountain levels of that 
c ountry. This stream is crossed by a via- 
duct consisting of two arches, ISO and 130 
feet sjDan, of timber and iron, on stone 
abutments and pier. 

The ascent to the Cheat River Hill 
comes next. This is decidedly the most 
imposing section of the whole line — the 
difficulties encountered in the four miles 
west of the crossing of the river being 
quite appalling. The road, winding up the 
slope of Laurel Hill and its spurs, with 
the river on the right hand, first crosses 
the ravine of Kyer's Run '76 feet deep, by 
a solid embankment ; then, after bold cut- 
ting, along a steep, rocky hill-side, it 
reaches Buckeye Hollovr, the depth of 
which is 108 feet below the road level, 
and 400 feet across at that level ; some 
more side cutting in rock ensues, and the 
passage of two or three coves in the hill- 
side, when we come to Tray Run, and 
cross it 150 feet above its original bed by 
an iron trestle-work of light and graceful 
construction, COO feet long at the road 
level. 

For several miles on this part of the 
line, the road runs along the steep moun- 
tain side, presenting a succession of the 
most delightful landscapes. In iavorable 
weather, day trains stop ten miautcs to 
307 



Grafton.] 



MARYLAND. 



[FEITEaMA.\. 



afford travellers an opportunity to view 
the viaduct and scenery of this part of 
the line. 

After passing these two tremendous 
clefts in the mountain side, the road 
winds along a precipitous slope with 
heavy cutting, filling, and walling, to 
BucJclwrn Branch, a wide and deep cove 
on the western flank of the mountain. 
This is crossed by a solid embankment 
and retaining wall 90 feet high at its 
most elevated point.- Some half mile 
further, after more heavy cuts and fills, 
the road at length leaves the dechvity of 
the river, which, where we see it for the 
last time, lies 500 feet below us, and 
turns westward through a low gap, which 
admits it by a moderate cutting, followed 
soon, however, by a deep and long one 
through Cassidy's Summit Ridge to the 
table land of the country bordering Cheat 
River on the west. Here, 80 miles from 
Cumberland, we enter the great western 
coal-field, having passed out of the Cum- 
berland field 85 miles from that place. 

Descending from Cassidy's Ridge, and 
passing by a high embankment over the 
Bushy Fork of Fringlis Htm, the line 
soon reaches the Kingivoocl Tunnel, the 
longest finished tunnel in America. This 
fine sti'ucture, the work of Benjamin H. 
Latrobe, is 4,100 feet long, took five 
years to build, and cost one million 
dollars. 

Leaving Kingwood Tunnel, the line for 
five miles descends along a steep hillside 
to the fiats of Raccoon Creek, at Newburg. 
In this distance it lies high above the val- 
ley, and crosses a branch of it with an 
embankment 100 feet in elevation. There 
are two other heavy fills further on. Two 
miles west of Kingwood Tunnel is 3Iur- 
ray^s Tun?iel, 250 feet long, a regular 
and beautiful semicircular arch cut out 
of a fine solid sandstone rock, overlaying 
a vein of coal six feet thick, which is seen 
on the floor of the tunnel. 

From Newburg, westward, the route 
pursues the valleys of Raccoon and Three 
Forks Creeks, which present no features 
of difficulty to the Grafton Station. Grc(f- 
ton is nearly equidistant from Cumber- 
land and Wheeling, being 100 miles west 
of the first, and about 100 east of the 
last-named place. It is pleasantly situa- 
ted on the Tygart's Valley River, which is 
308 



here crossed by a handsome iron bridge. 
Here terminates the third or mountain di- 
vision of the fine. The Northwestern 
Virginia Railway to Parkersbui-g, 104 
miles, intersects the main line at tbis 
point. It has a good hotel and dining 
saloon. 

Fetterman, a promising looking village, 
two miles further on, is next reached. 
Here the turnpike to Parkersburg and 
Marietta crosses the river. The route from 
Fetterman to Fairmont has but one very 
striking feature: the Tygarfs Valley IS)i- 
er, whose margin it follows, is a bean- 
tiful and winding stream, of gentle cur- 
rent, except at the Falls, where the river 
descends, principally by three or four pe^ 
pendicular pitches, some 70 feet in about 
a mile. The view in fine weather is 
charming. A mile and a half above Fair- 
mont the Tygart's Valley River and the 
West Fork River unite to form the Mo- 
nongahela, the first being the larger of the 
two confluents. 

A quarter of a mile below their junc- 
tion, the railroad crosses the Mononga- 
hela, upon a viaduct 650 feet long and 39 
feet above low-water surface. The lofty 
and massive abutments of this bridge sup- 
port an iron superstructure of three arches 
of 200 feet span each, which form the 
largest iron bridge in America. It was 
five times destroyed and as often rebuilt 
during the war. At Fairmont, VT miles 
from Wheeling, the Monongahela is agiun 
spanned by a Ijeautiful suspension bridge 
1,000 feet in length. 

The road, a mile and a half below Fair- 
mont, leaves the valley of the beautiful 
Monongahela, and ascends the winding 
and picturesque ravine of Buffalo Creek, 
a stream some 25 miles in length. The 
creek is first crossed five miles west of 
Fairmont, and again at two points a short 
distance apart, and about nine miles fur- 
ther west. 

About nine miles beyond Fairmont *e 
pass the small hamlet of Farmington, afid 
seven miles further is the thriving village , 
of Mannington, at the mouth of Piles 
Fork of Buffalo. There is a beautiful flat 
here on both sides of the stream, affording 
room for a town of some size, and sur- 
rounded by hills of a most agreeable as- 
pect. Thence to the head of Piles' Fork, 
the road traverses at fi.rst a narrow anJ 



fTLETON Station.] 



MARYLAND. 



[Eageesiown, 



stpentine gorge, with five bridges at dif- 
fient points, after which it courses with 
nre gentle curvatures along a wider and 
nderately winding valley, with meadow 
IM of one or two hundred yards broad 
clone or other margin. Numurous tribu- 
t.yes open out pretty vistas on either 
bid. This part of the valley, in its sum- 
nif dress, is singularly beautiful. After 
riching its head at Glover^s Gap^ 23 
nes beyond Fairmont, the road passes 
t;i ridge by deep cuts, and a tunnel of 
39 feet long, of curious shape, forming 
aj)rt of Moorish arch in its roof. From 
til! summit (which divides the waters of 
tli Monongahela from those of the Ohio) 
tlj line descends by ChurcKs Fork of 
iJi Creek — a valley of the same general 
fe;ures with the one just passed on the 
ei'iern side of the ridge. 

j'he road now becomes winding, and in 
tli next four miles we cross the creek 
eiit times. We also pass Cole's Tunnel, 
1 feet, Eaton's Tunnel, 170 feet, and 
M -ten's Tunnel, 180 feet long. 

'he Littleton Station is reached just be- 
yid, and Board Tree Tunnel is soon at 
h;j d. This tunnel, 40 miles east of Wheel- 
passes under a great hill, which was 
iually crossed by the railroad on a 
:ag track with seven angles represent- 
seven Vs. 

caving Board Tree Tunnel, the line 
defends along the hill-side of the North 
F k. of Fish Creek, crossing ravines and 
8} 'S by deep fillings and cuttings and 
railing the level of the flats bordering 
tn Creek at Bell's Mill ; soon after which 
it rosses the creek and ascends Hart's 
R and Four Mile Run to the Welling 
T nel, 50 miles west of Fairmont, and 
2rrom Wheeling. This tunnel is 1,250 
fe! long, and pierces the ridge between 
Fji Creek and Grave Creek. It is 
tl lugh slate rock, like the Board Tree 
T' nel, and is substantially arched with 
bilk and stone. 

jrora the Welling Tunnel the line pur- 
sil the valley of Grave Creek, 17 miles 
to ;s mouth at the Flats of Grave Creek 
01 he Ohio River, 11 miles below Wheel- 
The first five miles of the ravine of 
Give Creek are of gentle curvature and 
o\ 1 aspect, like the others already men- 
tic ed. Afterwards it becomes very sin- 
uc 3, and the stream requires to be bridg- 



ed eight times. There are also several 
deep cuts through sharp ridges in the 
bends of the creek, and one tunnel 400 
feet long at Sheppard's, 19 miles from 
Wheeling. 

The approach to the bank of the OJiio 
River at the village of Moumkville, 12 
miles from Wheeling, is very beautiful. 
The line, emerging from the defile of 
Grave Creek, passes straight over the 
"fiats " which border the river, and form- 
ing a vast rolling plain, in the middle of 
which looms up the " great Indian mound," 
80 feet high and 200 feet broad at its 
base. The history of this singular mound 
is still involved in mystery. There is 
also the separate village of Mizabethtown, 
half a mile from the river bank, the 
mound standing between two towns and 
looking down upon them both. The 
" flats " embrace an area of some 4,000 
acres, about three-fourths of which lies 
on the Virginia, and the remaining fourth 
on the Ohio side of the river. The soil 
is fertile and well cultivated, and the spot 
possesses great interest, wliether for its 
agricultural richness, its historical monu- 
ments of past ages, or the beauty of its 
shape and position as the site for a large 
city. 

About three miles up the river from 
Moundsville, the "flats" terminate, and 
the road passes for a mile along rocky 
narrows washed by the river, after which 
it runs over wide, rich, and beautiful bot- 
tom lands, all the way to Wheeling. 

Mag-ersto^vii, capital of Washing- 
ton County, with a population of about 
4,000,is a prosperous place, 26 miles north- 
west of Frederick, from which it may be 
easily reached by stage. It is pleasatitly sit- 
uated on the west bank of AntietaraCreek, 
nine miles from the Potomac River. It is 
the southern terminus of the Cumberland 
Valley Railroad, which runs through 
Chambersburg to Harrisburg 74 miles. 
It is well located in the midst of a fine 
agricultural district, is well built, and con- 
tains several substantial edifices. The 
Wafshinffton is the principal hotel. 

Of the numerous routes from the At- 
lantic seaboard, southward, that by rail, 
via Baltimore and Washington, is the 
most expeditious, and, all things consid- 
ered, the most popular. We will suppose 
the traveller to have made the tour ot 
309 



1 



AXSAPOLIS.] 



MAEYLAXD. 



[Bladessbtli 



the Baliimore and Oliio Eailroad. and to 
have rerarned to Baltimore, for unless his 
ultimate destination be New Orleans, or 
some other point on the Mississippi, he 
wJH. find it to his advantage, not onlv as 
regards time and money, but also as re- 
gards opportunities for sight-seeing, to 
continue his joumev by the route here 
indicated. 

Crossing the Thomas Yiaduct, a splen- 
did structure, which spans the valley of 
the Patuxent a short distance south of 
the Eelay House, mentioned in the com- 
mencement of our chapter, on the Balti- 
more and Ohio Eailroad, as connecting the 
branch ■with the main line, we reach An- 
nanolis Junction, IS miles from Balti- 
more. Here a branch road connects with 

AxLcapolis, '21 miles from Annapo- 
Hs Junction, and 39 from Baltimore, An- 
napolis, the capital of Maryland, county 
seat and port of entry of Anne Arundel 
County, is a place of considerable interest, 
from its antiquity and its many historical 
associations. It is situated on the west side 
of the River Severn, two and a half miles 
from Chesapeake Bay. Founded in 1649, 
it was first called Providence, next Anne 
Arundel Town, and lastly, when it received 
a city charter in 1708, Annapolis, in honor 
of Queen Anne, It became the seat of the 
State Government in 16S9, on its remo- 
val from St. Mary's, the old capital 

The State House is an interesting edi- 
fice. Here is the seat of St John's Col- 
lege, founded in 17S4, by an endowment 
from the State and by the munificence of 
individual citizens. At Annapolis, also, 
was located the United States Xaval 



310 



Academy, established in 1845. It 
since been removed to Newport, Rl 
Island. The city contains a market, ;:. 
tre building, and about 500 priv. 
dwellings. 

Many important events occurred in A 
napolis during the period of the Revo'. 
tion : and here, at the close of the c<»flu 
occurred the memorable scene of WadiiL 
ton's resignation of his commission. . 
fine picture of this incident, by Edirl 
White, has been recently placed in th 
chamber where it occurred. It was a nir 
portant rendezvous for troops, and dep: 
for the receipt and shipment of si]pp& 
during the late rebellion. Xear Ajua 
olis Junction the remains of a large m 
tary camp are still seen. 

Leaving the Junction and puisdi- 
our way southward past Savage, Lutn 
and Beltsville Stations, we reach ^ader 
burff, a pretty little surburban village lyl: 
on both sides of the road, and on the fa 
side of the Eastern Branch of the Poi 
mac, which it enters imme^iiately bdc 
TTashington City. It is conspicuous 
the spot where the national anus st 
tainci a defeat in anempting to am 
the British in their movement on t 
capital, August 24, IS 14. It was also 
famous duelling-ground in the early ds 
of Congressional wrangling. It abooQ' 
in gardens, has a fine mineral spring, r 
is much visited by Washingtonians di 
ing the summer months. Soon after fci 
ing Bladensburg, the lofty dome rfi 
Capitol rises in view, forming the centre 
an extended landscape, and soon after t 
train stops at the foot of Capitol H3L 



WiiiiNGTON City.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washisgton Cut. 



DISTKICT OF COLUMBIA. 



'JtE DLstrict of Columbia is a sui generis 
tra^ neither State nor Territory, but set 
ap:J as the seat of the Federal Govern- 
mej. It was ceded to the United States 
forliis purpose by Maryland. It occu- 
pie(in area of 60 square miles. Oiigi- 
. '1 its measure was one hundred square 
r.he additional forty coming from 
lia. This part of the cession, how- 
c.Cjwas retroceded in 1846. The pres- 
ent fties of the District are Washington, 
thejnational capital, and Georgetown, 
clo!) by. Maryland lies upon aU sides, 

'■■t the southwest, where it is sepa- 
from Virginia by the Potomac 

Lj District of Columbia is governed 
Jir^ly by the Congress of the United 
iJtatf, under act of Congress (Feb. 27, 
.80l and its inhabitants have no repre- 
..enftion, and no voice in the Federal 
Mecpns. 

It population, which in 1860 was 
I. has increased to nearly double 
iinber; an increase attributable 
TO the demands of the Government 
the military operations of which 
iiton was the great centre, than 
legitimate increase of local trade 
I lie. 

1 incipal water-course is the Poto- 

Ivcr, which, taking its rise in the 

ay Mountains, receives the waters 

al important streams, and after a 

a- course of nearly 400 miles, d?s- 

iaus into Chesapeake Bay. Its prin- 

patributaries are the Shenandoah, the 

on|acy, the Conococheague, and the 

aai stia or Eastern branch, which forms 

6 stern boundary, and Eock Creek, 

e ^ stem boundary of the capital. 

■WASHIWaTON" CITY, 

40 miles from Baltimore, 138 from 
lili slphia, 226 from New York. 

H( 5LS. — Metropolitan (Brown's), Wil- 
-d' Ehhett H(mse, are all spacious 
it-( ss establishments. 



Washington City, the political capital 
of the United States, is situated in the Dis- 
trict of Columbia, on the north bank of 
the Potomac River, 122 miles north of 
Richmond, Virginia. 

After much discussion and not a little 
ill feeling amongst members of Congress, 
and leading men in Pennsylvania, Vir- 
ginia, and Maryland, the site" for the Fed- 
eral capital was decided on, and the 
necessary grants of lands made. 

The site, if not chosen by Washington 
himself, seems to have been selected 
through his agency, and it was he who 
laid the corner-stone of the Capitol. This 
was on the 18th of September, 1793, 
seven years before the seat of government 
was removed thither from Philadelphia. 
Under Washington's direction the citv was 
planned and laid out by Andrew EUicott. 
The first public communication on record 
in regard to laying out the city is from the 
pen of General Washington, and bears 
date 11th March, 1791. In a subsequent 
letter— 20th April, 1791— he eaUed it the 
"Federal City." It was first known as 
" the City of "Washington," September 9tli 
of the same year. Its ancient name was 
Conococheague, derived from a rapid 
stream of that name which ran near the 
city, and which, in the Indian tongue, 
means the Roaring Brook. The citv was 
incorporated May 3, 1802, and is therefore 
in its sixty-fifth year. Its limits embrace 
an area equal to four and a half miles 
long by two and a half broad. 

It is idle to speculate upon the action 
of legislative bodies, and especially of 
those which convene at the national 
capital ; but should the original plan of 
Washington ever be realized in its full 
growth to the proportions it was designed 
to reach — as may yet happen — ^it will be 
in its own right, and without the aid of 
its official position, one of the great cities 
of the Union. Indeed, it would be diffi- 
cult to invent a more magnificent scheme 
than that of the founder of Washington, 
or to find a location more eligible for its 
successful execution. Its easy access 
311 



Washington City.] 



DISTEICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington City 



from the sea gives it every facility for 
commercial greatness, and its varied to- 
pography almost compels picturesque 
effect and beauty. 

The scene from the lofty dome of the 
Capitol, or from the high terrace upon 
which this magnificent edifice stands, is 
one of unrivalled beauty, and gives the 
visitor at once and thoroughly a clear 
idea of the natural advantages of the 
location, and ot the character, extent, and 
possibilities of the city. Looking east- 
ward, for the space of a mile or more, 
over a level plain, now thickly doited 
with small dwellings, the eye falls upon 
the broad and beautiful waters of the 
Potomac, flowing by Alexandria and the 
classic groves of Mount Vernon, to the sea. 
Turning westward, it overlooks the city 
as it at present exists, upon the great 
highway of Pennsylvania Avenue, to the 
edifices of the State and Treasury De- 
partments and the President's House, the 
avenue dropping toward its centre, as a 
hammock might swing between the two 
elevated points. Around, on other rising 
grounds, the various public edifices are 
seen with fine effect ; and, tui^ning again 
to the left, the view takes in the broad 
acres of the new Park, over which may 
be seen the towers of the Smithsonian 
Institute, and the half-finished shaft of 
the Washington Monument ; whilst off in 
the distance, across Rock Creek, lies the 
quaint but picturesque little city of 
Georgetown, embosomed in an amphithe- 
atre of hills. 

Those who do not care, or who have 
not time to visit the several public build- 
ings and objects of interest in and around 
Washington, should not fail to make the 
ascent of the dome, and enjoy this view. 

The visitor will of course tui-n his first 
attention to the public or Government 
buildings, which form the especial attrac- 
tion of the city. 

The Capitol, not less on account of its 
strictly national character than its extent 
and magnificence, is entitled to the first 
consideration. 

The corner-stone of this imposing struc- 
ture, as we have already stated, was laid 
by Washington himself, September 18, 
1793. In August, 1814, it was burned 
by the British, under Admiral Cockburn, 
together with the Library of Congress, 
S12 



the President's House, and other publii 
works. Portraits of Louis the XVltl 
and Marie Antoinette, King and Queen o! 
France, which were in the Senate Cham 
ber of the Capitol at the time of th'i 
capture, were also burned or stolen. Li 
1818 it was entirely repaired, and in 
1851 (July 4), President Fillmore laid thi 
corner-stone of the new buildings, whic'v 
make the edifice now more than UAtx iti 
original size. Its whole length is 75 ~ 
feet, and the area covered, exclusivl 
of the court-yards, 153,112 square feet,C" 
rather more than three and a half acreu 
The surrounding grounds, which are beai 
tifully cultivated and embellished by foui 
tains and statuary, embrace from 25 t 
30 acres, and are known as the East ani 
West Grounds. The Senate Chamber an 
the Hall of Representatives of the Cm 
gross of the United States, are in lb 
wings, or, as they are more familiarli 
known, the "Extension" of the Capitc 
on either side of the central buildin; 
The gTand Rolunda contains eight larj 
pictures, illustrating scenes in America . 
history, painted for the Government I 
native artists. Entering the Rotunc 
immediately under the dome at the ma 
doorway on the east front, the visitor w 
find the pictures ranged in the foUowii 
order : 

1. Discovery of the Mississippi by 1 

Soto. May, 1541. 

2. Baptism of Pocahontas, Jamestow 

May, 1613. 

3. Declaration of Independence. Phi 

delphia, July 4, 1776. 

4. Surrender of General Burgoyne. & 

atoga, Oct. 17, 1777. 

5. Surrender of Lord CornwaUis, Yoi 

town, Oct. 19, 1781. 

6. General Washington resigning his Cft 

mission. AnnapoUs, Dec. 23, 17! 

7. Embarkation of the Pilgrims. Ji 

21 (0. S.), 1620. 

8. Landing of Columbus. Oct., 1492. 
The third and three following pictu; 

of the series, were painted by Colo 
John Trumbull, for tlie Government, ^ 
total cost of $32,000. -It was thepict 
of the Declaration that provoked J< 
Randolph's ungracious and unjust ci 
cism. He called it the " shin piece,''an 
host of would-be connoisseurs have l' 
denouncing it ever since. It is rei 



"V^SHiNGTON City.] 



of the best, if not the best painting, 
he Rotunda. Over the main entrance 

fine picture by , representing 

til murder of the Innocents. A full-length 



In 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington City. 



;rait of the late President Lincoln, oc- 
ies a similar position over the door- 
leading to the Senate Chamber, 
r the western entrance is a half portrait 
he late Joshua R. Giddings. These 
ures have little intrinsic merit, and 
valuable and interesting mainly on ac- 
kt of the portraits they contain. The 
ccnoisseur will best decide for himself 
r relative merits as works of art. 
ds of Columbus, Sir Walter Raleigh, 
pt, and La Salle appropriately oc- 
f alternate panels over the pictures. 
fie panels over the four entrances to 
till Rotunda are allo-rilievos in stone, 
rclesenting Penn's Treaty with the In- 
ilils, the Landing of the Pilgrims at 
Pljnouth, the Conflict of Daniel Boone 
wil the Indians, and the Rescue of 
Ciiain Johia Smith by Pocahontas. 
Til floor of the Rotunda, 96 feet in di- 
anfeer, is of freestone, supported by 
arjes of brick, resting upon two con- 
ce^'ic peristyles of Doric columns in the 
crlt below. The height of the Rotunda 
is I feet. On the floor of this Rotunda 
encamped the soldiers of the New 
Seventh Regiment, when they ar- 
1 in Washington in April, 1861. 
le Dome, which rises over the Ro- 
a in the centre of the structure, is the 
: imposing feature of the vast pile, 
old dome was constructed of brick, 
e, and wood, and sheathed with cop- 
and rose to the height of 14.5 feet 
the ground. This was removed in 
, and the present structure of iron 
;ed, from designs by Walter, the ar- 
ct of the Extension. The castings 
losing the Dome, are from the man- 
;ory of Janes, Beebe & Co., New York, 
weight of iron used in its construction 
nits to 10.000.000 lbs. The interior 
e Dome measures 96 feet in diameter, 
2'20 feet from the floor to the ceiling, 
rnally, it rises 211 feet above the 
of the main building, 300 feet above 
lastern, and .196 feet above the west- 
ont. The view of the Dome from 
;ateway to the Western Grounds, par- 
' broken by the intervening forest 
, is very fine. As before remarked, 
14 



visitors should not fail to make the ascent 
of the Dome. A spiral stairway, travers- 
ing the v/hole superstructure between the 
outer and inner shells, affords easy access, 
and gives the visitor a favorable opportu- 
nity for inspecting, from different points 
of view, the fresco painting on the canopy 
overhead. This is the work of Constan- 
tino Brumidi, whose altar-piece of the 
Crucifixion, I'ccently placed in the Cathe- 
dral of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Phila- 
delphia, has been so much admired. It 
covers a space of 6,000 square feet, and 
was commenced and completed within 
the space of ten months. 

The canopy at its base is 54 feet in 
diameter and 250 feet in circumference; 
63 figures are contained in the picture, 
many of them, in order to produce 
the effect necessary for life-size when 
seen from the floor beneath, being colos- 
sal in their dimensions, and varying from 
twelve to seventeen feet in height. The 
centre figure will be readily recognized. 
It consists of a portrait of Washington, in 
a sitting posture. To his right is seated 
the Goddess of Liberty, and on the left a 
female figure representing Victory and 
Fame proclaiming Freedom. In a semi- 
circle is a group of females, representiug 
the original sister colonies, bearing aloft 
a banner on which is inscribed the na- 
tional motto. Surrounding this under- 
circle, near the base of the design, are 
six artistic groups, representing War, 
Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the 
Navy, and Science. 

The overthrow of treason is strongly 
typified in the discomfited yet malignant 
aspect of the figures which shrink from 
view under the feet of the incensed figure 
of Liberty and Union. 

In the group representing the Arts and 
Sciences the figures of Franklin, Walter, 
and Fulton occupy prominent places. Mr. 
J. P. Gulick has immediate charge of 
this portion of the Dome. 

From the gallery immediately under- 
neath the fresco gallery, another spiral 
stairway leads to the lantern, 17 feet in 
diameter and 52 feet high. This is sur- 
mounted by the tholus, or ball, and this 
in turn by Crawford's statue of Liberty, 
16^ feet high, cast in bronze by Clark 
Mills. 

Leaving the Rotunda by the southern 
313 



Washington City.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington Cm 



doorway, the visitor to the Capitol finds 
himself in the south wing of the centre 
building, in the Old Hall of Representa- 
lives. Most persons who visit the Capi- 
tol for the first time have their attention 
so much absorbed in the new extension, 
and the debates which during the session 
are carried on there, tliat they overlook 
the objects of intei'est in the central edi- 
fice ; yet, as a late writer has justly re- 
marked, there is no room in the new 
buildings comparable in beauty to the old 
Representatives' Hall. This fine chamber 
really forms one of the most interesting 
relics of the history of Congress. It is, 
moreover, replete with historical associa- 
tions of the deepest interest. The ruined 
towers and fretted aisles of the Old World, 
moss-clad and ivy-wreathed, may delight 
the eye and please the sense of the Euro- 
pean tourist, dilleitante, and scholar more 
than these sombre and unromautic walls, 
bare and whitewashed as they are ; but 
surely to the American-born citizen they 
must ever be replete with an interest well- 
nigh sacred. On the floor of this hall all 
the great men of the first half century of 
the republic figured. Here Clay presid- 
ed, here ¥/ebster spoke, here Adams 
died ; but the reader's knowledge of Amer- 
ican history is, doubtless, better than the 
author's ; iDesides, the limits of a guide- 
book forbid any attempt at historical 
picture-painting. The apartment is semi- 
circular in form, 95 feet in length and 60 
feet high to the apex of the ceiling. The 
columns which support the entablature 
are 24 in number, and constructed of va- 
riegated green hrecchia ,or pudding-stone, 
fi'om the Potomac Valley, and cost over 
$8,000 apiece. There is nothing like 
them nor so fine elsewhere in Washington. 
The ceiling is painted in panel, to imitate 
that of the Pantheon at Rome. Light is 
admitted through a cupola in the centre 
of the ceiling. In the tympanum of the 
arch stands a statue of Liberty, ex'ecuted 
in plaster by Causici. A full-length por- 
trait of Lafayette, presented to Congress 
on the occasion of his visit in 1825, oc- 
cupies a place on the western wall ; op- 
posite is a portrait of Washington by 
Vanderlyn. The statue by Franzoni, rep- 
resenting History standing in a v.inged 
car, the wheel of which, by an ingenious 
device, forms the dial of a clock, is de- 
314 



servedly admired. The unsightly galler- 
ies and other unpleasing (but for tbeir 
original purpose necessary) features of 
the hall have been removed, and the main 
corridor now traverses the hall to the 
door of the new hall. An ornamental 
railing has recently been erected, within 
which will be placed the statuary and 
paintings which, from time to time, come 
into possession of the Government. 

The plaster model of Crawford's statue 
of Freedom which crowns the dome of the 
building, and basts of Secretary Stanton 
and Crawford the sculptor, occupy the 
left of the entrance to the main corridor. 
On the right are statues of Washington 
and Kosciusko, and busts of Presidents 
Lincoln and Johnson. 

The Bronze Door, which opens out of 
the old hall upon the corridor leading to 
the new hall, is a work of considerable 
merit, though seen to poor advantage in 
its present position. It is composed en- 
tirely of bronze, and weighs 20,000 
pounds. It was designed by Randolph 
Rogers, an -American artist, and modelled 
by him in Rome in 1858. The cast was 
executed by F. Yon Miiller, at Munich, in 
1861. The work is in alto-rilievo, and 
commemorates the history of Columbus 
and the discovery of America. It is 17 
feet high, 9 feet wide, and cost $30,000. 
The door has eight panels, each contain- 
ing a distinct scene in the life of the great 
discoverer, the last the death scene, in 
which Columbus is represented surround- 
ed by his friends and attendants, with his 
eyes fixed upon the crucifix, feebly nint- 
tering his last words, "In manus tuas 
Domine commendo spiritum meum," is a 
beautifully executed and impressive pic- 
ture. The statuettes, sixteen in number, 
between the panels and on the sides of 
the door, represent the eminent contempo- 
raries of Columbus. 

Advancing southward along the corri- 
dor, a few steps bring us to the new hall 
of the House of Representatives. Admis- 
sion to the floor of the House is only 
granted before the morning session, or 
during a recess of the House. The cham- 
ber itself is 139 feet long, 93 feet wide, 
and 30 feet high. The lowness of the 
ceiling, which is supported by trusses from 
the roof beyond, and panelled with stain- 
ed glass, gives this otherwise fine apart- 



rASHlNGTON CiTT.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington City 



ent a gloomy and cramped appearance, 
:iicli the gaudy, garish character of the 
coration serves rather to heighten, 
le Strangers' Gallery, to' which ready 
cent is aftbrded by means of two grand 
irble stairways, extends entirely round 
e hall, and affords seats for 1,200 per- 

3 ; sections of the gallery are railed 

for the use of the diplomatic corps 

d the reporters for the press. The 

ice not specially appropriated to their 
e is open to visitors. The Speaker's 
)oin, hnmediately in the rear of his 
air, is a highly decorated apartment, 
■om the southern lobby of the House 

o stairways descend to the basement, 
lerc arc located the llefectory and vari- 

s committee-rooms. The room of the 
)mmittee on Agriculture vrill repay a 
5it ; the walls and ceiling are painted in 
;sco by Brumidi. To those who visit 
e Capitol during the spring or summer 
pnths, a walk through the basement 
11 be appreciated as not the le.\st en- 
R'able feature of the visit. The corridor, 
liich is 24i feet wide, contains 30 mouo- 
liic fluted columns of white marble, 
•jth foliated capitals, and, from the thick- 
ijss of the surrounding walls and esclu- 
an from the sun's rays is a refreshingly 
Jol place for a promenade. 

Traversing the basement to the north 
id, we reach the floor above by a stair- 
Iv similar to that leading from the Hall 
<j Representatives. 

[The Senate Chamber presents few feat- 
ips worthy special notice, after visiting 
tp Hall of Representatives. It is some- 

at smaller than the other, being 112 

t long by 82 feet in vadth, and is open 

the same objection on account of the 
Iniess of the ceiling. Being ornament- 
(I and fitted with better taste, however, 
ijhas a more pleasing general appear- 
fte. The galleries are reached by mar- 
ll stairways similar to those in the south 
\|ig. These staircases really constitute 
t| most striking architectural displays 
i the recent extension of the Capitol. 
lose who have the necessary time at 
t|ir disposal, will be repaid by visit- 
the President's and Vice-President's 
1 oms, the Senators' Retiring-Room, the 
1 cei)ti()n-Room, and Senate Post-Offiee. 
I the President's room, which adjoins 
retiring-chamber on the west, are 



frescoes typical of the history of the 
country ; also portraits of the first Pres- 
ident and his Cabinet, by Brumidi. The 
room of the Vice-President contains a 
portrait of Washington -hj Rembrandt 
Peale. Admission to the galleries of both 
Semite and House can always be obtain- 
ed on application to the Door-keeper or 
any of his assistants. 

The Supreme Court JRoom, a semicir- 
cular apartment 75 feet long and 45 feet 
high, situated upon the eastern side of 
the north v^ing of the centre building, is 
interesting. Busts of the former Chief 
Justices Jay, Rutledge, Ellsworth, and 
Marshall, adorn the walls. Underneath 
the Supreme Court room is the apartment 
formerly occupied liy the Court, and de- 
voted to the Lavj Library. The corn-stalk 
columns which ornament the entrance to 
this apartment, and the tobacco-lea/ cap- 
itals of the circular colonnade, between 
the old Senate Chamber and the Rotunda, 
are worthy of notice. This Ubrary, which 
is separated from the main library of Con- 
gress for the convenience of the Court, 
contains upwards of 16,000 volumes, and 
is rich in works upon civil, maritime, and 
commercial law; a catalogue was pub- 
lished in IS60. The principal architec- 
tural feature of this room are the arches 
which spring from the massive arched 
ribs of stone resting on Doric columns. 

The Library of Congress occupies a 
suitable apartment, which, when fully 
completed, will embrace the entire west- 
ern projection of the centre building. 
The main room is 91 feet long and 34 
feet wide, ceiled with iron, and fitted up 
with fire-proof cases. It has been found 
that in this particular too much caution 
cannot be exercised. The collection of 
books was commenced under act of Con- 
gress, April 24, 1800, at the suggestion 
of President JefFcrson; the collection, 
amounting to 3,000 volumes, was destroy- 
ed when the Capitol was burnt by the 
British in 1814. In December, 1851, the 
library numbered 55,000 ; a second fire, 
which occurred on the 24th of that 
month, swept away all but 20,000 vol- 
umes ; among tliose saved were fortunately 
a large portion of the Jefferson collection. 
Tlie present library-room was completed 
July, 1853, at a cost of nearly $'73,000. 
The annual appropriations for the pur- 
315 



Washington Citt.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington Citt. 



chase of books amount to ^1,000. The 
collection now numbers 70,000, exclu- 
sive of documents, which number nearly 
as many more ; a catalogue of the books 
has just been published. The library is 
open to aU throughout the sessions of 
Congress, and on stated days during the 
recess. Since the erection of the bronzed 
gates to guard the alcoves containing the 
books, this famous library has lost many 
of its attractions for the literary lounger ; 
neither is it so attractive to the ladies 
who, during the pendency of dull debates, 
whilome found these alcoves such pleasant 
places for quiet flirtation. The Document 
Library is reached by a flight of stairs at 
the left of the entrance to the old Hall of 
Representatives. 

On the eastern portico, and in the 
grounds surrounding the Capitol, are 
several works of art, conspicuous among 
which are Persico's statues of Columbus, 
of Peace, and of War, and the group of 
statuary representing Civilization, by 
Greenough ; the statue of Washington, ex- 
ecuted by the same artist, representing the 
Father of his Country seated on a pedes- 
tal of granite 12 feet high, in imitation of 
the antique statue of Jupiter Tonans, can- 
not be regarded as a very truthful or ar- 
tistic effort. The whole cost of the Cap- 
itol buildings, as they exist at this time, 
(1866), has been nearly $12,000,000; 
work upon it has never been entirely sus- 
pended since the commencement of the 
war. 

The Executive Mansion, or White 
House, as it is popularly called, is IJ 
miles west of the Capitol, upon a high 
terrace, at the opposite extremity of 
Pennsylvania Avenue, surrounded by the 
Treasury, State, War, and Navy Depart- 
ments. The corner-stone of the building 
was laid with appropriate ceremonies on 
the 13th October, 1792. It was built 
from designs by James Hoban, and was 
modelled after the palace of the Duke of 
Leinster ; it was much injured during the 
occupation of the city by the British, and 
extensive repairs were foimd necessary, 
which were made in 1815, under the su- 
pervision of the same architect. It is two 
stories high, 170 feet long, and 86 feet 
deep, built of freestone, and painted 
white. The "East Room" is a fine apart- 
ment, 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 20 
316 



feet high. The surrounding grounds, which 
embrace an area of about 2(J acres, slope 
gradually to the Potomac on the south. 
A circular colonnade of six Doric pillars 
adorns this front, from which is a pictur- 
esque view of the river and Virginia shore. 
On the north front, overlooking Pennsyl- i 
vania Avenue, is a portico with four Ionic 
columns, under which carriages pass. In 
the lawn, immediately in front of this 
drive, is a bronze statue of Jefferson. 

On the grounds south of the White 
House a band of music performs Wed- :] 
nesday and Saturday afternoons, during ij 
the summer months, when there is usually I 
a large attendance of ladies from the city. \ 
It is proposed to build anew Presidential 
Mansion, in which case the Department 
of State will occupy the present White 
House. 

The President receives calls every week- 
day, except Cabinet days and special ap- 
pointment days, from 10 to 1 o'clock. A 
grand levee is held at the White House 
on New- Year's Day ; this is regarded as 
the opening levee, after which, of late 
years, it has been the custom to con- - 
sider fortnightly evening levees as in 
order. The President's Lady, in compa- 
ny with the President, also gives a recep- i; 
tion weekly, during the session of Con- > 
gress, usually on Satui-day mornings. The 
announcements of the daily press furnish 
the best guide in this particular. 

Lafayette Square, on the north side of I 
Pennsylvania Avenue, in the immediate 
vicinity of the President's Mansion, affords 
a pleasant ramble. In the centre of the I 
square is Clark Mills's well-kno'mi eqjc* 
trian statue of Jackson, erected January, 
1853. The ^wse of the rider and the '' 
poise of the horse may be regarded as 
miracles of art. 

The Treasury Department. — The hit- 
ages of fire, and the constantly increasing 
business of the Government, has required 
repeated and extensive additions to and ei- 
tensions of the public buildings of Wash- • 
ington. Perhaps the most noteworthy • 
instance of this rapid growth and ad- < 
vancement in the material wealth of the I 
nation is furnished in the present extent 
of the Ignited States Treasury building. , 
The act establishing the Treasury De- 
partment was approved September 2, 1789. 
The first edifice erected for the purpoM 



J 



ASHINGTON CiTY.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington City. 



I'aUuited States Treasury, -was destroyed 
w the British ia 1814. The second 
fas also burned down in the spring of 
|S33. The east front of the present 
fuilding, on Fifth Street, with its uu- 
froken Ionic colonnade of 300 feet, occu- 
|ies the site of the old Treasury building, 
fhis colonnade was modelled after that 
|f the Temple of Minerva at Athens. 
ft was commenced in the summer of 
L836. The extension, now nearly com- 
pleted, was begun in 1855, from designs 
Dy "Walter, the architect of the Capitol 
extension. The plan of the extension 
ianks the old building at each end with 
fmassive fronts. The old building is com- 
Iposed of brown sandstone, painted — 
I the recent extension is of solid granite 
[from Dix Island, on the coast of Maine. 
[When completed, and it only lacks the 
northern front, it will be 520 feet long, 
'by 288 feet in width. The interior 
! arrangement of the building is admirable. 
The printing of the public paper moneys, 
popularly known during and ever since 
the war as "greenbacks," is carried on 
in the basement and upper floors of this 
building. A permit from the Secretary 
of the Treasury is necessary for admis- 
sion to this part of the building. The 
grounds on the south, or Potomac front, 
are used by the various cricket and base- 
ball clubs of the city. 

17i£ War and Navy Deparimenfs, fac- 
ing each other on Pennsylvania Avenue 
and Seventeenth Street, west of the 
White House, are plain briclc buildings, 
with nothing but their size and past im- 
portance to invite attention. They were 
enlarged in 1864-'65, in order to meet the 
greatly increased demands of the Gov- 
ernment growing out of the war. 

A large stone building on the west side 
of Seventeenth Street, and nearly opposite 
the Navy Department, knov.n as Winder's 
Building, is attached to the War Depart- 
ment, for clerical purposes. A collection 
of flags and other trophies captured 
during the rebellion, will be found in 
both these Departments, The visitor's 
card, accompanied by a request, will in- 
sure permission from the Secretary to see 
them. 

In the open space between the War 
and Navy Departments, those curious in 
Buch matters will do well to examine a 



mass of copper-ore from Ontonagon, Lake 
Superior. It is said to have been origi- 
nally used as a sacrificial rock by the In- 
dians, who regarded it with peculiar awe 
and veneration. It cost the United States 
$5,640. 

The Slate Department. — The Depart- 
ment of State, at present, occupies an un- 
pretending two-story bi'ick building on 
the corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and 
Fifteenth Street. This will probably be 
removed in a short time, to make way for 
the northern front of the Treasury build- 
ing, already referred to. The organization 
of this Department embraces the following 
bureaus, under the immediate jurisdiction 
of their respective officers, viz. : the Dip- 
lomatic Branch, the Consular Branch, 
the Disbursing Agent, Translator, Ap- 
pointments and Commissions, Rolls and 
Archives, Territorial business, Pardons 
and Passports, and Statistics. The Li- 
brary contains books, maps, and charts, 
to the number of 16,000, and is worthy 
of examination. 

Tlie Patent- Office., sometimes but errone- 
ously called the Department of the Interior, 
is centrally located on F Street, between 
Seventh and Ninth Streets. It occupies 
the entire block, having a frontage of 410 
feet on F Street, and extending back 2*75 
feet to G Street. It was built after designs 
by ¥/m. P. Elliott, and extended recently 
by Edward Clark. It is admired, not less 
for the simplicity of its style than for its 
extent and the massive grandeur of its 
proportions. The style of architecture is 
Doric. There are porticoes on the east, 
west, and south fronts. The north front 
is not yet quite complete. The interior 
of this building is admirably designed 
and handsomely finished. The basement 
is occupied by the Bureau of Agriculture 
and the Indian office. In the second or 
main floor are located the office of the 
Secretary of the Interior, the General 
Land-Office, the Pension and Census Bu- 
reaus, and the office of the Commissioner 
of Patents. The principal feature of the 
whole building is the Model-Room of the 
Patent-Office, which occupies the entire 
upper floor of the edifice, forming four 
large halls or chambers, unequalled for 
extent and beauty on the continent. The 
total length of this floor is 1,350 feet, or 
rather more than a quarter of a mile. 
317 



Washington Cits:.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Washington City 



The East Hall is devoted to mechanical 
models, the north to models of agricul- 
tural implements, and the West Hall to 
rejected models. The entire collection 
numbers over 50,000 articles; an enu- 
meration of them here might weary the 
reader, and is therefore omitted. The 
fresco painting on the roof of the south 
room is much admired for its freshness 
and elaborate detail. In this room are 
cases containing a collection of Revolu- 
tionary curiosities and relics, among 
which are the printing-press of Ben 
Franklin, and the wardrobe, and many of 
the other personal effects of Washington, 
woi-n by him when he resigned his com- 
mission as Commander-in-Chief. N"ear 
these are cases for the preservation of 
medals and treaties of the United States 
with foreign powers. Among the latter 
are treaties with Louis Philippe (1831), 
Louis XVI. of France (I'Z'ZS), and Louis 
XVm. of France (1822). A fine collection 
of sabres, presented by Bey All Pacha to 
Captain JPerrie of the United States ship 
"Concord," at Alexandria, 1832, adorns 
the upper end of this case. Cases adjoining 
these to the west, and numbered four and 
five, contain a collection of Goodyear's 
patent rubber goods. On the left of the 
main stairway are four cases containing 
robes presented by the Government of 
Japan to United States Consul-General 
Harris, June 16, 1859. The rich color- 
ing and fantastic patterns of these vest- 
ments are much admired. The gifts of 
the Tycoon to President Lincoln are 
worthy close inspection. 

Powers's fine statue of Washington, 
taken by General Butler from the Louis- 
iana State House at Baton Rouge, is also 
in this room, near the head of the stairvvay. 
The Model-Room throughout forms one 
of the most interesting sights at the 
national capital. The whole building, 
except the north front, which is of brown 
sandstone, painted to correspond with the 
rest of the building, is of crystallized 
marble. The broad platform of the 
southern portico is reached by a flight of 
granite steps, 28 in number, and has 
a double row of fluted Doric columns, 
each 18 feet in circumference. The 
inner quadrangle of the structure meas- 
ures 265 feet by 135 feet, and contains 



two fountains. The main entrance to the 
building is from F Street. 

The General Fost-0(Jice, opposite the 
south front of the Patent-Office, is an 
imposing edifice of white marble in the 
modified Corinthian stjie. The buildin" '• 
rests on a rustic basement, scarcely dis- 
cernible since the raising of the street 
grade. It is 300 feet long, 204 feet deep, 
and three stories high. It was com- 
menced in 1839, extended in 1855, under 
the direction of Mr. Walter, and finished 
in 1865. MonoHths of Italian marble • 
form the columns of the extension. The 
City Post-Oflice occupies a portion of 
the north or F Street front. The whole 
upper portion is appropriated to the use 
of the General or United States Post- 
Ofiice. Papers left by Ben Franklin, 
when Postmaster General, are preserved 
here. 

The Strtithsonian Institute occupies the 
area of the New Park, west of the Capitol, 
and south of Pennsylvania ^Vvenue, known 
as the Mall. The easiest approach from 
Pennsylvania Avenue is by the Seventh 
Street bridge. This noble institution was 
endowed by James Smithson, Esq., of 
England, " for the increase and diffusion 
of knowledge among men." The edifice, 
which is constructed of red sandstone, in 
the Norman or Romanesque stj'le, was 
commenced in 184:'7, and completed soon 
after. -Its length is 450 feet, its breadth 
140, and it has nine towers, ranging from 
'75 to 150 feet high. It contains a lecture- 
room, with sittings for 1,200 auditors; a 
museum of natural history, 200 feet in 
length ; a superb laboratory ; a library- 
room capable of holding 100,000 volumes; 
and a gallery for pictures and statuary, 
120 feet in length. The grounds attached 
to the Institute, embracing about 50 acres, 
were laid out by the late A. J. Downing, 
whose name, so long connected with rural 
art, and whose melancholy death, will long 
be remembered. A monument erected to 
his memory by the American Pomological 
Society, stands near the Institute. 

The Washington Monument. — All guide 
and hand-books to AVashington, and their 
name is legion, reserve a conspicuous 
place for the Washington Monument, 
contrasting its prospective proportions 
with the great Pyramid of Cheops in 



318 



sonCixy.] 



BISTWCI OF COLMBTA. 



■C^-i. 



'<^ 



jTowevofKaUuesmB^g^S^ 

,, I sorts ot f ''^'' -n uia-mficence. 
^ h fot^^-e «f **^^* :, umJut as it now 

: a very s^^^'^^\f ''.,,, ^y position 
' ,a, Ux tbe out-o«b. way I ^^ 

it. The di^si^n ^^.^^j^. 

"•,OfeetinJeigW'^^^^^rantl.con 
te base modeled ^^e to cost over 
10 e, estnnated alon ^^^^ g, 

.-uUliondo^^a^^;^ ' Vatcdto pUce 

^ iupie" it ^^«°f °^;S^es and relics 
uJohlevolat.onav>bexo^^^^^ , 

WHxrgton- ^W. Doric piUai^, 
,,oionnade of "^^J'^^.a balustrade, 
a utable entablatme ^^^ ^^ ^^^ 
^ ;tate contributes a W .^ ^^ 
-,^, ov other mateual J ^.^^^ ^^ 

aa m ^'^ Tb ant ful specimens 
^c< blocks are »®''^^ ^re contained 
o^y of inspection i'lc^ ^^^^, Q,on- 
," Ldnear the f^'-J^^'f progress, is 
n^t, in HB pve^ent^Ute P ^.„^^^^^^ 

tJ on rising grom^dnea^^^^,^ (..orge- 
a-eenthcNavyDepaUn .^^ of the riv- 
tJn, coinmandmga nne ^^.^^ j^^.. 

Tndthetwocuie^. T^;^^4i,3aidto 
r rly l^^^own as Camp P, ^ ^^^j^h Gencr- 

^beentheprecise.^^^^^ 
Rvashington encampea ^^^ ^^,j^^ 

gily designed and u^^^^^ 
aphical office, il^e t ^^^.^^cal 

the ^vest ^^'ing, ^^J ^'^^ftl.e building, 
^cansit in the sonth v^m^ ^^ tr 

:,efineinstvmne^rts. \ ^^^ elock by 
comical works, '^"'i,.^ J^t^e Superintend- 
£->^^^'«^'^^Zrforvisl;orsdaily,fvo- 
silt's room. ^P^Q 

9 to 3 o'clock. o^theEasternBrancl , 
' ThciVavj/ y'*'^';' ° „f a mile southeast 
about three fourtba oj ^ ^^ ^7 acres 
of the Capitol, ^^a^ f ^^,,tial brick wall- 
enclosed by ^^.'^^ besides houses for 
Within this e'^closmc \^^^ ^-avehouses, 
the officers, are shops ^^^ 

two large ship-bons<-_ , ^. g^^„,ent, 

Sch, like the rest o ^.e c._ ^^^^ ^ 
is kept in t^*^,.^^f;brick structure, situ- 
Mayazine is a huge " 



Required for the ^^^ of the ^^^ .^,, d- 
Sand Bimi ar punos B^-^^^.^^g^ the 

incr three-story J^^ \' j^n Institute. 
Mall east of the Sm^thsJ^^, Greenleaf s 

Tl^^ ^^■fXe'coS^nceoftheEaseru ^^ _ 
Point, near the coi .^ ^vor hy o^ 

Branch with t le -t commenced m > 

^^- ^^f'S'SeriXndenceofC.^^ 
1814, nn^lei- the snp ^^_i^oom, and the , 
nelBomiord. .^he Xaoc and Duncan, ; 
?a,.nous batteries of ^ra-^f military sci- ■ 

December fs, 1865. „, u goldiers' 

The MUttw>-y ^^'•'J f^uiarly known, 
Home," as it is ^^°;.^^i';ig the " places 
Should not be oimt^djm.^,-,, ^ 
^-orth Beemg ^J j^^^^,-,,ues norU. of 
pies a b^g^l^ J^^'^^e thither is among the 
the city. Tbc duv ^^^.^^ ^^ as T)ie 
raost Pheasant tbe ^^^^^^^ g^^^. The^ 
site was selected Dy ^^^^^^ ^,,at 

main building is buu ^^^^.^^^^^ gty^f 

Eastchester m^^l^^^' \^,g been the custon. 
of architecture W p-^.^ee's aa 

of the Presidents, sncu ^^^^ ^^^^^]. 

:nlnistvatiou,toocaipyon^^^ ^ 
ev buildings of *«/^^^^,, ^,,,,,ented Lm- 
resort, and ber^ t^^^^ -^.^t hours of^i 
coin passed some oi 
pventful term. . renideni is abo 

annleeast of th Cap^to,^ .^ 
ern Branch. "^ ;' ^f the surroundmg 
commands fine pictures o ^^^.^ ^ 

country. ,?- ^U g "^^''^^^ ^^"t 
^r^^^lX cSSisBeveralmonumen^^ 
Ground. Z^*;" ^hich are thosc^ 
of interest, ^mon ^^^^. 

George Chilton ER.iul^ ^^ y,^ 

ham Wirt, ^be - are y ^^ ^^ 
cenotaphs erected to rtm^ ^.^^ ^^„,g 
bevs of Congress, vho 
their terms of office ^^ ^^^^ ^^,a, pos- 

(?|c«woo(7, anothei c •> -^^^^^^Q^i is 

sessing greater bemt> ^ ^^ ^^^^ ^ , ^ 
situated about an h^no ^^^ , 

^'7rsSiy-tional)aretlieC.^/ 
ctv (not suicuj' 



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md 

tase 

ion 

i'liif 

ra: 

ae 

or. 



■^-/^'//iniYorthT) q. 

«»dPifth Streets '^J\^^t^<^en Poukk 






^;^^e Visited ,1 !-^«' «t Jifferonfr 



patronage. Jiie old fp-w^.""" ""ortliy of / ,-7" '"^"^es. Th ' ^'"^^""^"umber^i'-" 

's snecVnli. :'^,'^^^. upward of «ni^;/^^ter 



Jonca- 7"^ar and Trei) r.^, '^^^•^atre on7. 

'"Perelt' ? "'^" «- "£ of"?^? -^*h 
erest, from havino- k ^^eiancholv ;^ 

, ^sassination of p'l^f ° *e scene of th 

^.ye'it occurred on p^^^^t Lincoln T ^ 

?ie door hy^Chl^'^^y, April U jS"' 

-osedt!!!i_*^eatre. ThV^g *^e 



^« specially Si P^'''"^of50 000 ! i" 
i'story. f. ''f ^n i^orks on /I '•""'^ 
calan^itj. ^*' ^^«« ^ouJd be a .?""'''" 
The /?■,.. ^ national 

=e lately i^^f^M"*-'*- 



aJnf K ^ ^" ^Weli tfiA L -^^Partment k^' ^%iiard, on P ^^^ occupied ht 

It ^* breathed if, i„ : • "^"I'dered pL.- ''^'^"'een the r; , ^^^Dsrlyanii T '^^ 

'on chan^ber in tVe , '' " '^^^^'^ S exten ' .'"^^°«4 buff '"'^ «^orge Ln T-'' 

'treet, onposifi ,, ^ ^ouse No h^ m^*^^' for British ^•- ^^ »o means IjT"' ^* '^ 



° of Messrs. Ui^VV^'^ ^ell-tnown ° '''' *'n^es. AW' ^""^ closed aVVn 

18 fS t^ '*--■'■- ' '«S:r'5p*oS.raL °r- '-4: 

quadrangle o. 
265 feet bj Ut, 

318 



^^^^^eansayoidthe1,J£;"«\'^^«es. 
^'oisy hactnieii, 



Vicinity.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Georgetown. 



who infest street comers and hotel-bars. 
Avoid second and third-class hotels. If 
you are likely to stay a week, or longer, 
secure only lodgings, of which there are 
a great number, and board at a restau- 
rant. Gautier's, 252 Pennsylvania Avenue, 
or the Restaurant Beuhler, two blocks fur- 
ther east, are the best ; French and Ger- 
man spoken ; wines and cigars excellent. 
Avoid barber-shops and bath-rooms ; or, 
if it is warm weather, and total immer- 
sion is necessary to your comfort, go 
bathe in the Potomac, for the baths of 
the Capitol, unlike the pool of Siloam, 
, never wash clean. 



VICINITY OF WASHINGTON. 

Proceeding westward along Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue, half a mile beyond the War 
Department, we pass a small, open ground 
enclosed within an ornamental railing, and 
known as " The Circle." In the centre of 
the enclosure is an equesti-ian statue of 
Washington, by Clark Mills, finished in 
1860. Beyond the Circle, on the right, 
are seen several private residences, con- 
sjiicuous among which is the headquar- 
ters of the British Legation, already men- 
tioned. In crossing the iron bridge, which 
spans Rock Creek at the foot of the Ave- 
nue, a fine view is had of the Heights of 
Georgetown on one side, and the high 
bank of the Potomac on the opposite or 
Virginia shore. 

CJeorgeto^^vii. Hotels. Lang's^ 
The Union. Distant little more than two 
miles from Capitol Hill, and divided only 
by Rock Creek from Washington City, 
Georgetown may be almost regarded as 
forming a suburb of the national capital. 
Since the introduction of street-cars, the 
tide of travel between the two cities is 
very great. The city is beautifully loca- 
ted on a range of hills, which command a 
view unsurpassed for extent and beauty 
in the Potomac Valley. It was laid out 
by act of the colonial government of 
Maryland June 8, 1751, and was incor- 
p,"-'- ■ her 25, 1789. It is a port 

carries on a considerable 
ii^ciauiiif, .....ue; a line of steamships plies 
Ibetween New York and this port. The 
[pity presents many points of attraction. 
The Heights should first be visited, as 



from them the relative distance and di- 
rection of other points and localities can 
be readily obtained. The Aqueduct^ by 
which the waters of the Chesapeake and 
Ohio Canal are carried over the Potomac, 
will repay inspection. It is 1,446 feet 
long and 36 feet high. The conduit has 
a nine-foot vent, and discharges 68,000,- 
000 gallons in twenty-four hours. The 
piers, nine in number, are built of granite, 
embedded 17 feet in the river bottom. 
It was constructed under the direction of 
Major Turnbull, U. S. Topographical En- 
gineers, and cost $2,000,000. The canal 
extends 184 miles to Cumberland, Mary- 
land, and cost $12,000,000. Georgetown 
College, at the west end of the city, 
is an old institution of learning. The 
first edifice was commenced in 1788, and 
completed in 1795. In 1799 it became 
" The College of Georgetown." In May, 
1815, it was incorporated a university. 
The Medical Department was added in 
1851. The buildings are spacious, and 
contain a well-selected library of 25,000 
volumes, an observatory, and a Museum 
of Natural History. It is under the di- 
rection of the Jesuits. In the rear of 
the college is a pretty rural serpentine 
walk, commanding a still prettier view. 

The Convent of the Fm7afe'oji, founded in 
1799, is on Fayette Street. The building 
appropriated for the Ladies' Academy is 
of brick, about 250 feet in length ; the in- 
terior is a combination of neatness and 
elegance. Visitors are admitted between 
the hours of 11 and 2 o'clock. The resi- 
dence of the archbishop of the diocese is 
near by. On the heights north of the 
convent is an Asi/lum for Destitute Color- 
ed Women and Children. Oak Hill Ceme- 
tery, on the northeastern declivity of the 
heights, is a romantic burying-ground. It 
was laid out in 1849, by its donor, Mr. 
Corcoran, whose vault of white marble 
occupies a prominent place in the ceme- 
tery. The granite monument to M. Bo- 
disco, the late Russian minister, is wor- 
thy of notice ; it was sent from St. Pe- 
tersburg by the Russian Government. 
An elegant Gothic chapel with stained- 
glass windows, planned by Renwick, and 
now overgrown with ivy, is an attractive 
feature of this really pretty spot. 

Georgetown contains several churches, 
a flourishing academy, and other educa- 
321 



Vicinity.] 



DISTEICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Arungtoh. 



tional institutions. Population about 
9,000. 

The Potomac in the vicinity of George- 
town abounds in fish ; shad and herring 
are taken in great abundance, large quan- 
tities being exported monthly through 
the season. A dish of baked shad con- 
stitutes one of the dinner-table attrac- 
tions of the District. 

Arlinglon House, once the mansion of 
George Washington Parke Custis, the last 
but one survivor of the Washington fam- 
ily, occupies a commanding position on 
the Virginia side of the river, nearly oppo- 
site Georgetown. It stands more than 200 
feet above the river, and the view from 
the portico of the building ia among the 
best this part of the Potomac affords. 
The collection of pictures and other rel- 
ics, among them the Mount Vernon plate 
and the bed and bedstead of Washing- 
ton, have passed into other hands. Be- 
fore the war, Arlington formed part of 
the estate of Robert E. Lee, afterwards 
known as the Commander-in-chief of the 
Confederate army. The ravages of war 
have laid waste this once lovely spot. 
The beautiful heights, upon which the 
house and grounds stood, were occupied 
by Union troops May 2, 1861 ; they are 
now occupied by the Frecdrnenh Vil- 
lage. Fort Albany is near by. A recent 
visit to Arlington Heights and the set- 
tlement surrounding them is thus de- 
scribed : 

" Being provided with passports, a good 
carriage, willing horses, and a shrewd dri- 
ver, we started ga3dy through the wide 
streets of Washington, and were soon on 
that longest of Long Bridges, that spans 
the Potomac. As we were obliged to 
walk the horses, the drive over being a 
mile, gives us ample time to preiaare our 
minds for entering on that sacred soil of 
the F. F. V.'s, that the irreverent Yan- 
kees are said to describe as ' Poor, old, 
worn-out, God-forsaken Virginia.' It is 
the first glimpse a Northerner can catch 
of the iron hoof of war, and as you roll 
over the dusty, broken road, it rises 
around you on every side and forms a 
desolate picture. Broken fences, clayey 
fields, felled trees, and deserted houses, 
the charred remains of camps, fires light- 
ed in the midst of pleasure-grounds, and 
fed with the broken lattice- work of sum- 
322 



mer-houses, i-usty canteens, and all tlie 
discarded remains of camp life — these are 
the features of a landscape that was oiicc 
a summer resort for gayety and mirth — 
the Sans Souci gardens of Washington. 
The road to Arlington is a climb nearly 
all the way, and for the first half mile we 
rode in the rear of an army of several 
thousand, and consequently in a cloud 
of dust that was not relieved by bumping 
in and out of the ruts made by heavy 
ambulances. At last our way turned anil 
became smooth and less desolate; the 
trees were green, so were the fields be- 
neath them, and every thing, though neg- 
lected, was uninjured. Then we saw 
what appeared to me two very good imi- 
tations of the castle of Giant Despair. 
They were the houses of two declared en- 
emies of the Government who had never 
been convicted of any active treason, but 
were considered sufficiently worthy of at- 
tention to be interdicted from leaving their 
own grounds on any pretence whatever 
And here they both abide within a few 
furlongs of each other, yet apart ; with 
liberty to range at will in the narrow cir- 
cuit of their desolate gardens, yet in re- 
ality close prisoners and under strict 
watch. They had not taken kindly to 
their captivity, if the utterly ruinous 
aspect of their surroundings could speak 
for them, and the sluggish gloom that 
rested on every thing must have been a 
reflection to their own hearts. 

" About three-quarters of a mile before 
you reach Arlington House, you come 
upon the village (Freedmen's), which is \ 
built terrace-fashion, circling the brow of 
the heights. It contained at that time ' 
about 1,800 inhabitants, and consisted '■ 
of two and a half storied white frame 
houses, built in small rows along aven- 
ues, designated by the names of Garrison, 
Lovejoy, Fremont, etc. Leaving our con- 
veyance, we climbed up the hilly path 
to the superintendent's house, which is. 
comfortably large an9 airy, but bare and i 
unimproved like all the rest," 

The number of freedmen here congre- 
gated is about 2,000, and a chapel has ' 
been erected for religious service. Near i 
the i-iver, at the foot of an umbrageous i 
oak, is the famous Arlington Spring. 

The Little Falls of the Potomac, three 
miles above Georgetown, are a succession 






AlEXANDKIA.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Mount Vj^rnon. 



of- romantic cascades at the head of tide- 
water. The scenery is wild and pic- 
turesque, and the waters abound in fish ; 
striped bass is the most common. These 
waters were a favorite angling-haunt of 
Daniel Webster, and no spot within easy 
reach of the visitor to the capital pre- 
sents more varied attractions. Great 
Falls, 12 miles beyond, present a scene 
of unusual, picturesque, and grand effect. 
The road thither atfords a pleasant car- 
riage drive. 

Alexantlria, Va., is situated up- 
on the south bank of the Potomac, seven 
miles below the capital. It was once 
within the District of Columbia, but was 
retroceded to Virginia in 1846, with all 
the territory of that State vt^hich had be- 
fore been a portion of the national ground. 
Its foundation dates from 1Y4S. General 
Braddock's disastrous expedition to the 
West was fitted out here. The town is 
intimately connected with the life and 
name of Washington. In Christ Church, 
the pew in which he sat is an object of 
much interest. Many mementoes of him 
are carefully preserved. The Musuem, 
Court House, Odd-Fellows' Hall, and Theo- 
logical Seminary, are among the prominent 
buildings. The town, hke all others in 
Virginia, suffered much during the war 
from the hands of soldiery,^The city was 
occupied by Ellsworth's Zouave regiment 
and a Michigan regiment on the morning 
of the 24th May, 1861, and continued in 
the possession of the Federal troops. In 
the entrance to the Marshall House Colo- 
nel Ellsworth was shot by Jackson, the 
proprietor of the house, for tearing down 
the secession flag. Jackson was in turn 
shot by F. E. Brownell, one of Ellsworth's 
command. Of the merchants accustomed 
to do business in Alexandria, but few re- 
mained through the war. It had a popu- 
lation of 12,500 in 1860, contams one 
hotel (Newton's ), and is connected with 
Washington by steamboat, railway, and 
turnpike. The daily steamer down the 
[Potomac to Aquia Creek and Fortress 
iMonroe, calls here. It also has rail- 
jway communication with Lecsburg, 38 
miles ; also with Gordonsville, Char- 
lottesville, and Lynchburg, by the Orange 
and Alexandria Railway. The Long 
Bridge, which spans the Potomac at 
Washington, played an important part 



during the late rebellion; upwards of 
half a million troops are estimated to have 
crossed upon it. 

3Iount Vernon, sacred as the home 
and tomb of Washington, is upon the 
west bank of the Potomac, 15 miles be- 
low the capital, and eight miles from 
Alexandria. Mount Vernon, then known 
as the Hunting Creek estate, was be- 
queathed by Augustine Washington, who 
died in 1743, to Lawrence Washington, 
who received a captain's commission in 
one of the four regiments raised in the 
colonies, to aid the mother country in 
her struggle against France and Spain. 
It was named after Admiral Vernon, un- 
der whom Lawrence Washington had 
served, and for whom he cherished a 
strong affection. The central part of the 
mansion, which is of wood, was erected 
by Lawrence, and the wings by George 
Washington. It contains- many valu- 
able historical relics, among which are 
the key of the Bastile, presented by La- 
fayette, portions of the military and per- 
sonal furniture of Washington, the pitch- 
er, portrait, etc. 

The tomb of Washington, which is now 
fast going to decay, occupies a more pic- 
turesque situation than the present one, 
being upon an elevation in full view of 
the river. The new tomb, into which the 
remains were removed in 1837, and sub- 
sequently placed within a marble sarcoph- 
agus, stands in a more retired situation, 
a short distance from the house. It con- 
sists of a plain but solid structure of 
brick, with an iron gate at its entrance. 
Above the arch of this vault are inscribed 
the following lines : 

"Within this enclosure rest tlie-remains of 
Geneeal Geobge Washington." 

The Mount Vernon flomain, which has 
remained since the death of Washington 
in the possession of his descendents, was 
purchased a few years ago for the sum 
of $200,000, raised by subscription, un- 
der the auspices of a society of ladies 
known as the " Ladies' Mount Vernon 
Union Association." It is therefore, and 
will continue to be, the property of the 
nation. In this noble movement the late 
Hon. Edward Everett took a distinguish- 
ed and active part. 

To reach Mount Vernon from Wash- 
323 



Vicinity.] 



DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



[Defences. 



ington, take the ferry to Alexandria, and 
thence by road. Six miles south of Alex- 
andria, old Fori Washington, known dur- 
ing the war of 1812 as Fort Warburton, 
is passed. 

The important position of Washington 
dui-ing the late war led to careful prep- 
arations for its defence, and the modern 
fortifications of the place will long remain 
among its main objects of interest. They 
are 56 in number, embracing a circuit of 
nearly 40 miles around the city and Alex- 
andria. These works are built of earth, 
and are bomb-proof Of the whole num- 
ber, Fort Stevens, at the northern end of 
324 



Seventh Street, was the only one attack- 
ed during the war. The events of the 
memorable " four days' " siege of the city 
are still fresh in the recollection of its 
citizens. 

The Army Hospitals of Washington 
and vicinity numbered 23 during the 
war, with accommodation for 12,000 pa- 
tients. Many of these have been remov- 
ed. Among those remaining, worthy a 
visit, are Armory Square Hospital, east 
of the Smithsonian grounds ; Emory and 
Lincoln Hospitals, and Judiciary Square 
Hospital, in the rear of the City Hall. 



Virginia.] 



VIRGINU. 



[Virginia. 



YIEGINIA 



Virginia, the oldest of the original 
thirteen States of the North American 
Confederacy, and, on that account, often 
referred to as the " Old Dominion," is 
bounded on the north by Ohio, Pennsyl- 
vania, and Maryland ; east, by Maryland 
and the Atlantic Ocean ; south, by North 
Carolina and Tennessee ; and west, by 
Kentucky and Ohio. Jamestown, on the 
James River, is the oldest permanent set- 
tlement made by the English on this con- 
tinent, the redoubtable Captain John 
Smith and his followers having landed 
and located there in 1607. In its eai'ly 
career it encountered great difficulties in 
the shape of famine, disease, and the hos- 
tilities of the natives. Bacon's rebellion, 
the most serious of these disturbances, 
broke out in 1676. In IGYY Virginia 
obtained a new charter, depriving her of 
some of her former privileges, as a pun- 
ishment for this rebellion. In 1*752 
Washington, then a young man, was sent 
by Governor Dinwiddle as an envoy to the 
French commander at Fort Du Quesne 
(Pittsburg), and two years after defeated 
the French at the Great Meadows, but was 
obliged finally to capitulate. Virginia 
took an active part in the events leading 
to and in the conduct of the Ilevolution- 
ary war, as she also did in the rebellion 
of 1861-'65. 

Among the proudest boasts of the State 
is the extraordinary number of great men 
which she has given to the nation. Dui-- 
ing half the lifetime of the Republic, its 
highest office has been conferred upon her 
sons. Washington, Jefferson, Madison, 
Monroe, Tyler, and Harrison, all Presi- 
jdents, were born in Virginia. Not only 
ihas she been the mother of Presidents, 
ibut she has raised leaders for our armies 
fand navies, lawgivers for our Senates, 
judges for our tribunals, apostles for our 



pulpits, poets for our closets, and paint- 
ers and sculptors for our highest and most 
enduring delight. Scanning the map of 
middle Virginia, the eye is continually ar- 
rested by hallowed shrines — the birth- 
places, the homes, and the graves of those 
whom the world has most delighted to 
honor. Here we pause within the classic 
groves of Monticello, and look abroad 
upon the scenes amidst which Jefferson 
so profoundly studied and taught the 
world. There, in the little village of 
Hanover, the burning words of Patrick 
Henry first awakened the glowing fire of 
liberty in the bosoms of his countrymen ; 
and here, too, the great Clay was nurtured 
in that lofty spirit of patriotism, from 
which sprang his high and devoted public 
services. Not far off we may again bend, 
reverently, over the ashes of Madison and 
Monroe, of Lee, and Wirt, and Marshall. 
Prominent among the events of the Rev- 
olution was the surrender of Cornwallis 
at Yorktown, October, 1781, which vir- 
tually terminated the war. Washington 
died December 14, 1799. Alexandria 
capitulated to the British, August 27, 
1814. Nat Turner's negro insurrection 
occurred in 1831. A State Constitution 
was formed in 1776, which was remod- 
elled in 1830, and again in 1851. 

The events of the last five years have 
added materially to the historical and 
scenical attractions of Virginia. The 
" ordinance of secession " was passed 
April 17, 1861, and the accession of 
Virginia (Eastern) to the Southern Con- 
federacy announced by Governor Letcher 
on the 25th of the same month. In 
Western Virginia, on the 23d of April, 
at a public meeting held at Clarksburg, 
Harrison County, delegates were appoint- 
ed to a convention to be held at Wheel- 
ing, May 13th, to determine what course 
325 



Virginia.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[ViHGINIA. 



should be pursued. This movement re- 
sulted in the separation of Western from 
Eastern Virginia. Great activity was 
soon observed in Eastern and Southwest- 
ern Virginia, in the organization and 
equipment of troops, and by the 5th of 
June it was estimated that there were 
fifty thousand Confederate troops in ac- 
tive service in the State. All between the 
ages of eighteen and forty-five were re- 
quired to enlist, and not such only as a 
draft would call into the field. From that 
time to the capture of llichmond and the 
virtual close of the rebeUion, Virginia 
was the principal theatre of war, and is 
fairly entitled, in addition to her former 
appellation of " the Old Dominion," to be 
known as the Batile-Field of the Union. 
For the information especially of those 
desirous of visiting the battle-fields 
throughout the State, we give, at the 
close of the chapter, a list of the battles 
and principal skirmishes, the points at 
which they were fought, and the best 
routes by which to reach them. 

In regard to internal improvements and 
the means of communication, Virginia, 
though behind many of her younger and 
less wealthy sister States, is yet far in ad- 
vance of States lying to the south and west 
of her. Her noble rivers and main lines of 
railway afford easy access to almost every 
section of her wide domain. According 
to the census of 1860, the railroad system 
of the State embraced l,'77l miles of 
track, the construction and equipment of 
which cost sixty-five millions of dollars. 

Geographically, Virginia occupies a 
central position on the seaboard of the 
Union. It lies between 36° SO' and 40° 
88' north latitude, and between 75° 10' 
and 83° 30' west longitude, and is very 
irregular in its outline. It is about 425 
miles in its greatest length from east to 
west, and 210 in breadth, embracing an 
area of about 61,352 square miles, or 39,- 
265,280 acres, of which only 11,437,821 
were improved in 1860. 

No State in the Union presents a greater 
variety of surface than Virginia, from the 
mountain ranges and rugged hills of the 
interior to the rich alluvions of the rivers 
and the sandy flats of the seacoast. It is 
usually divided into four sections. 1. 
The Tidewater District, containing thirty- 
seven counties, bordering on the Atlantic 
32G 



and Chesapeake Bay, is generally level. 
2. West of this is a more elevated re- 
gion, sometimes called the Piedmont Dis- 
trict, containing thirty-two counties. 3. 
The Valley District, containing nineteen 
counties, is entered by ascending the Blue 
Ridge, which passes from Maryland into 
Virginia, near Harper's Ferry. 4. The 
Trans-Alleghany District, containing for- 
ty-nine counties, lying west of the moun- 
tains. This portion is for the most part 
hilly and broken, or occupied with outly- 
ing spurs. 

With such a topography, Virginia, as 
will readily be believed, abounds in grand 
and picturesque scenery, and in objects 
of interest to tourists. It is especially 
rich in mountain scenery, though the 
mountains do not attain so great an ele- 
vation as in New Hampshire and North 
Carohna. White Top, in Grayson Coun- 
ty, the highest land in the State, is 6,000 
feet above the sea level. Next to White 
Top, the highest known summits are the 
peaks of Otter, between Bedford and 
Botetourt Counties, which are 4,300 feet 
above the level of the sea. The moun- 
tains extend across the middle of the State 
in a southwest and northeast direction, 
and occupy a belt of from 80 to 100 miles 
in width. 

Next to her mountain scenery, the 
springs of the Old Dominion present 
the greatest attractions to travellers. 
Some of the most valuable medici- 
nal waters on the continent are found 
within her borders. Among the most cel- 
ebrated are the Berkeley Springs, in Mor- 
gan County [see Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
way, in our chapter on Maryland); 
White Sulphur in Fauquier, White Sul- 
phur and Blue Sulphur in Greenbrier, 
the Alum and Hot Springs in Bath, the 
Salt and Red Sulphur in Monroe, and the 
White Sulphur in Grayson County. The 
most celebrated of these, the White Sul- 
phur Spring in Greenbrier County, 13 ' 
strongly impregnated with carbonic and 
nitrogen gases, with sulphates of lime and 
magnesia, and carbonate of lime. The 
far-famed passage of the Potomac through 
the Blue Ridge at Harper's Ferry is al- 
ready familiar to most travellers, as is \ 
also the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge ' 
County ; Weyer's (Weir's) Cave, Madison's 
Cave, and the Chimneys in Augusta Coun- 



Virginia.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Virginia. 



ty, the Buffalo Knob in Floyd County, 
the Natural Tunnel in Scott County, and 
the Hawk's Nest, on New River, in Fay- 
ette County, are all noteworthy objects 
much frequented by tourists. 

The political . and . natural divisions 
of the State have been briefly stated. 
Its internal organization embraces 148 
counties, 46 of which are now included 
in West Virginia. Richmond is the 
capital, and largest city in the State. 
Petersburg,. Norfolk, Wheeling, and 
Alexandria, take rank next the capital 
in size and importance. The white pop- 
ulation of Virginia is mainly of British 
origin, and until a recent period was but 
slightly affected by admixture from other 
sources. The native Virginians have al- 
ways prided themselves on the purity of 
their descent, and " one of the F. F. V.s," 
or first families of Virginia, has passed 
into a proverb. The population in 1860 
amounted to 1,596,318, of which number 
nearly one-third were slaves. The popu- 
lation has decreased during the war, and 
does not now probably number more than 
one million and a half white and black. 
Political and social differences and distinc- 
tions are fast passing away, and a healthy 
immigration is setting in from the North- 
ern States and from Europe. 

As the Southern -bound traveller is now 
about to enter a section of the Union the 
means of communication throughout 
which have been seriously broken and 
otherwise injured by the war, the author 
of the Hand-book has thought it advisable 
to give only such routes as have either 
not been interfered with or have been so 
far restored as to invite travel. For in- 
formation in regard to the condition and 
facilities of roads not mentioned here, 
the traveller is referred to "Appletons' 
itfonthly Guide," and the proprietors of the 
several leading hotels represented in these 
^ages, whose means of obtaining the 
latest intelligence in regard to locd 
ravel are unquestionably the best. 

Railways. — The Orange and Alex- 
andria Hailwa'/, from Alexandria to 
Lynchburg, 170 miles, via Springfield, 9 
niles ; Burke's, 14; Fairfax, 17; Union 
ilills, 23 ; Manassas, 27 (junction of Ma- 
iiassas Gap Road) ; Bristoe, 31 ; Weavers- 
/ille, 38 ; Warreutou Junction, 41 (Branch 
liue miles to Warrenton); Culpepper 



C. H., 62 ; Orange C. H., 79 ; Gordons- 
ville, 88; Lynchburg, 170. The i¥a- 
nassas Gap Hailway, from Manassas 
(Orange and Alexandria Road), 85 miles 
to Mt. Jackson. The Alexandria, 
Loudon, and Hampshire Railway, from 
Alexandria, through Arlington, Fall's 
Church, Guildford, 38 miles to Lees- 
burg. The Richmond, Fredericksburg, 
and Potomac Railway, from Aquia Creek, 
on the Potomac, to Fredericksburg, 15 
miles ; to Richmond, 75. Between Aquia 
Creek and Washington City communica- 
tion is by steamboat. The Seaboard and 
Roanoke Raihoai/, from Portsmouth and 
Norfolk, 80 miles to Weldon, N. C. 
Winchester and Potomac River Railway, 
32 miles from Winchester to Harper's 
Ferry (Baltimore and Ohio Railroad). 
The Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 397 
miles from Baltimore to Wheeling, is 
partly in Maryland and partly in Virginia. 
(See Maryland for further account of this 
road.) The N'orthwestern Railway, from 
Grafton, on the line of the Baltimore and 
Ohio Road, 104 miles to Parkersburg, on 
the Ohio River. The Virginia Central 
Railway, from Richmond westward 95 
miles, to Jackson's River, through Han- 
over, Louisa, Gordonsville, Charlottes- 
ville, Staunton, Millboro, and other places. 
Route to the Virginia Springs, Natural 
Bridge, Weir's Cave, etc. The Richmond 
and Danville Railway, from Richmond, 
141 miles southwest to Danville, on the 
North Carolina boundary. Richmond and 
Petersburg Railway, from Richmond, 21 
miles to Petersburg. The Petersburg and 
Lynchburg (Souihside) Railway, from Pe- 
tersburg, 123 miles to Lynchburg. From 
Petersburg it is extended 10 miles to City 
Point, on James River. It intersects the 
Richmond and Danville Road about mid- 
way, at Burkesville. The Virginia and 
Tennessee Railtvay, from Lynchburg, 204 
miles to Bristol, thence to Knoxville, Ten- 
nessee. The Roanoke Valley Railway, 22 
miles from Clarksville to Ridgeway, on 
the Raleigh and Gaston Railway, N. C. 
Parties desirous of visiting Fairfax Couvt- 
House, Manassas, and other points of in- 
terest in the neighborhood of Washingt «! 
and Alexandria, should take the Orange 
and Alexandria Railway, while those wish- 
ing to go direct to Richmond first, and 
select their routes from that point, can 
327 



RiCUMOND.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Richmond. 



take boat either at Washington or Alex- 
andria to Aquia Creek, and thence by rail 
via Fredericksburg, or continuing on to 
Fortress Monroe or Norfolk reach Rich- 
mond by steamboat up the James River. 
The former of these routes is the quicker 
and least expensive, the latter the most 
pleasant and most interesting. 



mCHMOND, 

180 miles by rail from Washington, 356 
from New York. 

Hotels. — The Ballard House. This 
(vell-known and deservedly popular house 
lias been thoroughly refurnished, and has 
Bvery convenience for guests. The £Jx- 
'jJumffe, immediately facing this, has 
large private parlors, and spacious ball- 
room. A well-shaded court-yard, a jet 
Teau, and observatory commanding an 
3xtended view of the city and vicinity, 
ire among the attractions of this hotel. 
Cuisine excellent. The Spottsivood and 
St. Charles are also good houses. 

Richmond, the capital of the "Old 
Dominion," as Virginia is familiarly 
called, and the seat of government during 
the Confederate rule in the State, is beau- 
tifully situated on the left or northeast 
bank of the James River, at what are 
called the Lower Falls. The city was 
founded by act of Assembly in May, 1'742, 
md became the State capital in ,1'7'79. 
Richmond, as first seen on approaching 
by the river, has the imposing aspect of 
1 large and populous capital. It owes 
this in a great degree to the elevated po- 
sition of its Capitol, which stands on 
Shockhoe Hill, and afar off has a hand- 
some and classical appearance ; when, 
bowever, 3'ou approach within criticising 
distance, it loses some of that enchant- 
ment which distance ever lends the view. 
The situation of the city and the scenery 
of the environs are much admired. It is 
L'egularly laid out in rectangular blocks. 
Mways a city of considerable political and 
commercial importance, it gained still 
greater prominence as the capital of the 
Southern Confederacy. Upon the sur- 
render of the city to the Federal forces, 
April 2, 1865, fire was set to the tobacco 
and other warehouses of the city, under 
328 



orders, it is affirmed, from General Early, 
then commanding the Confederate troops 
quartered in Richmond, and soon a great 
portion of the business section of the 
city was a mass of blackened ruins. The 
upper part of Main Street, the principal 
avenue of fashion and business, from the 
Spottswood House down for several blocks, 
was entirely demolished, and only por- 
tions of it have yet been rebuilt. Up- 
wards of 1,000 buildings, and property es- 
timated at eight millions of dollars, were 
destroyed. The Capitol^ as before stated, 
stands on the brow of Shockoe Hill, 
overlooking what was once the city proper, 
but now the burnt district. From its size 
and elevated location, it is by far the most 
conspicuous object in the city. It is a 
Grseco-composite building, adorned with 
a portico of Ionic columns. There are 
windows on all sides, and doors on the two 
longer sides, which are reached by high 
and unsightly double flights of steps 
placed sidewise, nndet which are other 
doors leading to the basement. The view 
from the portico is extensive and beauti- 
ful, taking in the James River, with its 
windings and numerous islands. It stands 
in the centre of a public square of about 
eight acres. Entering by one of the up- 
per doors, an entry leads to a square hall 
in the centre of the building, surmounted 
by a dome which transmits light from 
above. The hall is about forty feet square, 
and about twenty-five above the floor. lu 
one of the niches in the wall is a marble 
bust of Lafayette. In the centre of the 
square hall above described thei'e is a 
marble statue of George Washington, on 
which is the following inscription : " Faii 
par Houdon, Citoyen Frangais, lYSS." 
The statue is mounted on a rectangular 
pedestal, four and a half feet high, on one 
of the larger ^ides of which is the fol- 
lowing honest and affectionate inscrip- 
tion: 

" The General Assembly of the Com- 
monwealth of Virginia have caused this 
statue to be erected, as a monument of 
affection and gratitude to 

GEORGE WASHINGTON, 
who, uniting to the endowments of the 
Hero the virtues of the Patriot, and ex- 
erting both in estabUshing the Liberties 
of his Country, has rendered his name 
dear to his Fellow-Citizens, and given the 



I 



IRichmonh.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Richmond. 



ijWorld an immortal example of true Glory. 

iDone in the year of 

1 CHRIST 

One Thousand Seven Hundred and Eigh- 
;v-Eight, and in the year of the Common- 
vealth the Twelfth." 

r The simplicity, dignity, and truth of 
hat inscription are worthy of the great 
niginal commemorated, and of the young 
tnd chivalric State whose ready gratitude 

early erected this lasting monument, 
nd overflowed in language so beautiful 
nd appropriate. The statue is decently 
dad in the uniform worn by an American 
reneral during the Revolution, and not 
alf covered by the semi-barbarous and 
aiian toga, with throat uncovered and 
aked arm, as if prepared for the barber 
ad the bleeder, which is the case with 
lie statue of Washington, by Greenough. 
t the National Capitol. It is of the size 
f life, and stands resting on the right 
lilt, having the left somewhat advanced, 
ith the knee bent. The left hand rests 
1 a bundle of fasces, on which hang a 

ilitary cloak and a small sword, and 
jainst which leans a plough. The atti- 

de is natural and easy, and the likeness 

the great original is strong. A fine 
ntue of Henry Clay stands near the 
■stern corner of the square. Besides 
e Capitol, the most noteworthy edifices 
e the City Hall, the Penitentiary, and 
e Custom House. The City Ball is an 
I'gaut structure, at the northwest angle 

1 t he Capitol Square. The Penitentiary, 
lar the river, in the western part of the 
(v, is a spacious edifice,' with a facade 
( near 300 feet long. The Custom House 
j a substantial structure, fronting on 
] liu Street. It has been recently com- 
I'ted, and cost upwards of half a million 

lollars. The lower story is used for 
te purposes of the City Post-Office. 
ove this are the headquarters of the 
Kitary commandant ,of the district. 
hlimond College was founded by the 
rptists, in 1832. St. Vincenfs College 
■under the direction of the Catholics. 
b medical department of Hampden and 
•dney CoZ/(?^f, established in 1838, occu- 
il3 an attractive building, of Egyptian 

hitecture. 

imong the churches of Richmond, 

r thirty in number, are some of ai'chi- 

tural skill worth observing. The 3fon- 



umental Church (Episcopal) stands where 
once stood the Theatre, so disastrously 
burned in 1811, at the sad sacrifice of 
the life of the Governor of the State, 
and more than sixty others of the ill- 
fated audience in the building at the time. 
St. Johi's, on Church Hill, corner Broad 
and Twenty-fourth Streets, is interesting 
from its historical associations. 

Holywood Cemetery is a pretty, re- 
tired spot, adorned with some handsome 
monuments. It is at the north end of 
Main Street. The Lihby Prison and Castle 
Thunder are always pointed out to 
strangers. The former and better known 
of the two takes its name from its owner, 
a Mr. Libby, who long occupied it as a 
tobacco warehouse. During the war it 
was used as a place of confinement for 
Union prisoners. It has little, either in 
its past history, present condition, or fu- 
ture prospects, to invite a closer acquaint- 
ance than this brief description affords. 
Richmond is the great depot for the to- 
bacco product of Virginia, and the ware- 
houses where this famous " weed " was 
stored, the number of which exceeded 
forty, were before the war among the 
" sights " of the city. The wheat grown 
in the neighborhood of Richmond, and in- 
deed throughout "V irginia, has long been 
esteemed for its excellence. The flouring 
mills are numerous, and many of them ex- 
tensive. The "City," "Gallego," and 
" Haxall" are the largest concerns of this 
kind. The city also contains a Court- 
House, a Jail, an Armory, a Theatre, two 
Market-Houses, an Orphan Asylum, and a 
Masonic Hall. Three bridges across the 
river connect the city with Manchester 
and Spring Hill. The Rapids, or FaUs of 
James River, which extend six miles 
above the city, and have a descent of 80 
feet, afford valuable water power. The 
navigation of the river is opened above 
the city by the assistance of a canal which 
overcomes the rapids. The city is sup- 
plied with water from the I'iver by means 
of forcing-pumps, which furnish three res- 
ervoirs, of 1,000,000 of gallons each. 
The James River and Kanawha Canal, 
commenced in 1834, extends westward 
upwards of 200 miles. Richmond, like 
Washington, though in a much greater 
degree, has been the centre of absorbing 
interest during the war, and no one ought 
329 



Norfolk.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Vicinity' 



to leave it without visiting the line of for- 
tifications whicli constituted tlie defences 
of the city, and which were so long deemed 
impregnable. 



MOUTE I. 

Worfblli:, 300 miles from New York 
by sea, 190 from Washington, 180 from 
Baltimore, 140 from Richmond. From 
Baltimore daily, by steamboat down Ches- 
apeake Bay. From Richmond the route 
is by steamer down James River. Sev- 
eral fine boats ply between the two cities, 
and in favorable weather the trip is a 
most delightful and interesting one. 

Hotels. — Atlantic and National, both 
on Main Street, are well-ordered houses. 
The former has reading and billiard rooms 
attached. 

Norfolk is pleasantly situated upon the 
Elizabeth River, eight miles from Hamp- 
ton Roads, and 32 miles from the ocean- 
It was named Norfolk after one of the 
counties of England, by Colonel Thoro- 
good, who was one of the first settlers in 
what was then known as Elizabeth City 
County. It contains 20,000 inhabitants, 
and is, after Richmond, the most populous 
city in Virginia. A canal comes in here 
through the Dismal Swamp, which opens 
communication between Chesapeake Bay 
and Albemarle Sound. The city was laid 
out in 1*705, and incorporated as a borough 
in 1736. In 1'7'76 it was bm-nt by the 
British. In 1855 it was visited by the 
yellow fever, which carried oiT several 
hundreds of its inhabitants. The harbor 
is large, safe, and easily accessible, de- 
fended at its entrance by Forts Monroe 
and Calhoun. It is a great market for 
wild fowl, oysters, poultry, and vegetables. 
The Custom House and Post- Office, on Main 
Street, is a handsome edifice, recently 
erected at a cost of $228,505. The Cit}i 
Hall has a granite front, a cupola 110 
feet high, and a handsome portico. The 
Baptist Church, on Freemason Street, has 
a fine steeple. 

Portsmouth, directly opposite Norfolk, 
is a naval depot of the United States. At 
the time of the secession of Virginia 
(April 18, 1861), the marines and others 
employed at the Navy Yard numbered 
330 



nearly one thousand men. Two days af- 
terwards it was destroyed by fire, together 
with the frigate Merrimac, the Pennsylva- 
nia and other ships-of-war. Property val- 
ued at several millions was destroyed, and 
the roar of the conflagration was heard for 
miles. It will take years to rebuild, if in- 
deed it is ever rebuilt. The U. 8. Naval 
Hospital, on the south bank of the Eliza- 
beth River, is an imposing-looking build- 
ing of brick, stuccoed. The SeaVjoard and 
Roanoke Railway comes in at Portsmouth 
from Weldon, N. C. Gosport lies just 
below. The United States Dry Dock at 
this suburb is a work of great extent and 
interest. Communication between Ports- 
mouth and Norfolk is kept up by ferry. 
Fort. Calhoun and Craney Island are at 
the entrance to the harbor. Tri-weekly 
steamers ply between Norfolk, City Point, 
Newborn, Mattapony River, and Cherry- 
stone. The oysters obtained in these 
waters are esteemed for their size and 
flavor. The " Virginia " and " Commer- 
cial " club-houses, in Bank Street, Nor- 
folk, are popular chop and oyster houses. 

Old Point Comfort and Foi'tress Monroe, 
14 miles north of Norfolk, are much fre- 
quented by travellers, the former for its 
fine bathing-ground, the latter for its 
formidable military defences. They are 
pleasantly situated at the entrance to 
Hampton Roads. Fortress Monroe is the 
largest military work, and, strictly speak- 
ing, the only fortress in the United 
State. The area embraced within its 
outer vrorks is 65 acres. Within is a 
parade ground' 25 acres in extent, with 
numerous fine shade trees. It is a bas- 
tioned work, the walls built of granite, 
and 35 feet high. A moat '75 to 150 
feet wide, and 8 to 15 feet deep, sur- 
rounds the work. The embrasures of 
the water battery on the sea face of the 
fort are 42 in number. The whole arma- 
ment of the fortress is 371 guns, many 
of which are the largest-sized colum-. < 
biads. It has always remained in the 
possession of the United States. The 
village of Hampton, three miles from 
Fortress Monroe, is largely occupied by 
freedmen. Horse-cars run there through- 
out the day. The restaurant "Hygea," 
at the " Old Point" steamboat landing, is 
a well-regulated establishment. 

The trip up the James affords the traT- 



STBRSBUEG.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Williamsburg. 



er some charming river scenery and 

ivvs of many places full of historic in- 

est. Thirty-two miles above its mouth 

:'s passed the rimis of Jamestown. The 

5tory of this spot is a romantic one, 

111 of the varied story of early colonial 

venture and suffering, of the gallantry 

Captain John Smith, and the devotion 

[the gentle Pocahontas. The first Eng- 

fi settlement in the United States was 

lide here in 1607. Its Revolutionary 

! tory was eventful. Nothing now re- 

illins of the town save a few ruins. 

scending the river, we next reach City 
\int, at the mouth of the Appomattox 
10 miles east-northeast of Peters- 
with which place it has direct com- 
nication by railway. City Point ac- 
red vQry considerable prominence in 
t| annals of the war as a military camp 
depot for supplies of the Army of the 
omac. The brick building on the ex- 
tltae point of land overlooking the Ajd- 
pJQattoxwas occupied during the closing 
rs of the war as General Grant's head- 
Tters. The view from this point, in- 
endent of its memorable associations, 
. always render it attractive. Many of 
lines of Government storehouses and 
ots are still standing. The defences 
City Point are among the most note- 
thy objects of interest in the vicinity, 
re are no hotels worth mentioning, 
I atti'actions of the place not being at 
a|n that line. 

In the left bank of the James, imme- 
dtely above the mouth of the Ap- 
pijaattox, we pass Benmida Hundred, 
aij further on other points interest- 
inl through their association with the 
rcrements of the respective armies dur- 
in» the war. A short distance above 
V^ina Landing, at a bend in the river, 
tlij Dutch Gap Canal is passed, in sight 
otjhe signal-tower, and shortly after the 
Hvlett House Batteries and Drury's 
Bif (Fort Darling). Three miles fur- 
th| up, the roof and portico of the 
CiStol on Shockoe Ilill in Richmond 
riffi in view. 

retei*sl>»i-g-, 21 miles from Rieh- 
mld, 10 from City Point, is pleasantly 
sifi'ited on tlie south bank of the Appo- 
mjtox. It was the third city of the State 
prj ious to the war, containing a popula- 
tiifof nearly 16,000, but it has suffered 



tiifof n 

L 



terribly, and it must be many years be- 
fore it regains its former position. It is 
on the great route from New York to 
Charleston and New Orleans. The South- 
side Railway from Lynchburg, IrSS 
miles distant, terminates here. The ro- 
mantic ruins of the old church of Bland- 
ford are within the limits of this borough. 
The falls of the river just above the city 
furnish extensive water power. A canal 
round these falls affords passage for boats 
100 miles above the city. It fell into the 
hands of the Union forces April 3, 1865. 
Marks of the fierce attacks to which it 
was subjected are seen everywhere in and 
around the city. A visit to the fortifica- 
tions will well repay the stranger. Fort 
Steadinan, " the last ditch " of the rebel- 
lion; the Crater, the scene of the ex- 
plosion and bloody struggle in August, 
1864 ; Fort Hell, to the left of Steadman, 
where the Union and Rebel lines almost 
touch, and near by Fort Damnation, are 
among the places and scenes of interest 
around Petersburg. JarratCs is the lead- 
ing hotel. 



ROUTE II. 

^W"illiaHisl>™rg-, 60 miles east of 
Richmond, and 68 miles west of Norfolk, 
the oldest incorporated town in A^irginia, 
and a place of extreme interest in its his- 
torical associations, is built upon a plain,, 
between the York and James Rivers, six 
miles from each. This was the seat of 
the colonial Government anterior to the 
Revolution, and the capital of the State 
until 1*779. It was first settled in 1632. 
William and Mary CoUeye, founded 1692, 
is the oldest educational estabhshment in 
the United States, after Harvard Univer- 
sity. Previous to the wav it had a fine 
librar)-. The losses sustained by this in- 
stitution during the v/ar are estimated at 
$80,000. An appeal for its relief is being 
urged abroad. In the centre of the lawn, 
fronting the College, is a mutilated statue 
of Lord Botetourt, one of the most popu- 
lar of the old colonial Governors. This 
statue was placed in its present position 
in 1 7 9 7. Falace of Lord JDunmore. — The 
remains of this ancient building, the home 
of the last of the royal Governors of Vir- 
ginia, is at the head of a pleasant broad 

;^3i 



Williamsburg.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[FllEDERICKSBURO, 



court, extending from the main street in 
front of the City Hall. It was built of 
biick. The centre edifice was accident- 
ally destroyed by fire while occupied by 
the French soldiers, just after the surren- 
der of Cornwallis at Yorktown. Here the 
stately old Governor lived, or attempted 
to live, in royal splendor. All that now 
remains of his pomp are the two little 
outbuildings or wings of his palace, yet 
to be seen by the visitor at Williamsburg. 
The Old Ccqntol stood on the site of the 
present Court-House, on the square, oppo- 
site the Magazine. It was destroyed by 
fire in 1832. A few of the old arches lie 
yet around, half buried in the greensward. 
It was in the " Old Capitol " that the Bur- 
gesses of Virginia were assembled when 
Patrick Henry, the youngest member of 
that body, presented the series of bold 
resolutions which led to his famous 
speech : " Cassar had his Brutus, Charles 
the First his Cromwell, and George the 
Third " — concluded by tlaose master-words 
of raillery, when the excited assembly in- 
terrupted him with the cry of " Treason ! 
treason!" — "may profit by their exam- 
ple. If this be treason, make the most 
of it ! " The Apollo Room of the Raleigh 
Tavern is an apartment in another time- 
honored old building of Williamsburg, in 
vyhich the House of Burgesses assembled 
to consider the revolutionary movements 
which were then passing in Massachu- 
setts. This assembly had just been dis- 
solved by the Governor, in consequence 
of its passage of acts in opposition to 
those of the Lords and Commons of Eng- 
land just before received. The Queen's 
Rangers, commanded by Lieut.-Colonel 
Simcoe, entered Williamsburg, driving 
out the Virginia militia, on the stormy 
night of April 19, 1*781 . The thoughtful 
traveller will delight himself by recalling 
other incidents in the history of the lo- 
calities here presented, and in following 
the course of the great ti'ain of events 
which resulted from or were connected 
with them. Brenton Church, a venerable 
edifice of the early part of the last cen- 
tury, stands on the public square, near 
Palace Street or Court. It is a cruciform 
building, surmounted by a steeple. Near 
Brenton Church is an octagonal edifice, 
built duriag the administration of Gov- 
ernor Spottswood, known as the Old Mag- 
332 



azme. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum of 
Virginia is also located at this place. 

Yorlito^VM, upon the York River, 
11 miles from its entrance into Chesa- 
peake Bay, 70 miles east-southeast of 
Richmond, and about 12 miles from Wil- 
liamsburg, is memorable as the scene of 
that closing event in the American Revo- 
lution, the surrender of the British army 
under Lord Cornwallis, October 19, 1781. 
This event is commemorated in one of ■ 
Colonel Trumbull's pictures in the rotunda 
of the Capitol at Washington. The pre- 
cise spot at Yorktown where the scene of : 
the surrender of the British arms and 
standards took place will be pointed out 
to the inquiring visitor. At the time of 
the surrender the place contained about 
sixty houses. In 1814 it was desolated 
by fire. Remains of the inirenchnunt'i 
cast up by the British on the south and 
east sides of the town are yet to be seen 
These mounds vary from 12 to 16 feet i'l 
height, and extend in broken lines fro'fl 
the river bank to the sloping grouDlS' 
back of the village. Cornv allis' Cavt is 
an excavation in the blufi upon wl.ich 
the village stands, reput*d to I.avei 
been made and used by Lord Oorn- 
wallis as a council chamber duriu'^ the 
siege. It is exhibited with this cha^, 
actex for a small fee. A quarter of fltt 
mile below this cave there is anotherJK 
which there is good reason to believe' 
really was thus occupied by the English 
command er. The region of country round 
Williamsburg and Yorktown bears abun- 
dant evidences of the operations conduct-i 
ed there during the recent rebellion. • 



JROUTE III. 

Fredericlislrarg-, 60 miles noith; 
of Richmond, and 70 miles south of 
Washington, is situated on the right bank i! 
of .the Rappahannock River, at the headt! 
of tide-water. On the route hither, 16, i 
miles from Richmond, the traveller passes-:, 
Ashland, the scene of many a cavalry rMdi'i 
during the war. During the battle of j 
Chancellorsville, Stoneman's cavalry madei 
a dash on this station, and later, Generalsi) 
Kilpatrick and Sheridan. At the junc-ij 
tion, seven miles beyond Ashland, a figWj 
took place between Grant and Lee, in tlw j 



SEDERICKSBURG.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Lynchburg, 



jtimpaign from the Rappahannock to Cold 

[arbor. From Hamilton^ Crossing to 

redericksburg, a distance of four miles, 

tie line is laid through the scene of Burn- 

de's attack. That portion of Stafford 

ounty lying between the Rappahannock 

pd the Potomac Rivers, the scene of 

any a bivouac, march, and fight, is now 

desolate waste. Aquia Creeh, the 

rthern terminus of the road, is mainly 

own as the base of supplies for Burn- 

de during the operations against Freder- 

ksburg. The great fight took place De- 

toiber 13, 1862. 

The Birthplace of Washington. — It 
s in the vicinity of Fredericksburg 
at Washington was born, and here 
passed his early years ; and here, 
repose the remains of his hon- 
ed mother. The birthplace of the 
ther of his Country is about half a 
le from the junction of Pope's Creek 
th the Potomac, in Westmoreland 
unty. It is upon the " Wakefield es- 
now in the possession of John E. 
ilson, Esq. The house in which the 
at patriot was bom was destroyed be- 
e the Revolution. It was a plain Vir- 
ia farm-house of the better class, with 
r rooms, and an enormous chimney on 
k outside at each end. The spot where 
ifetood is now marked by a slab of free- 
fpe, which was deposited by George W. 
" Custis, Esq., in the presence of other 
itlemen, in June, 1815. On the tablet 
this simple inscription : " Here, the 
]jrn OF February (0. S.), 1'732, George 

iPHINGTON WAS BORN." 

The remains of the mother of Washing- 
1 1 repose in the immediate vicinage of 

;dericlcsburg, on the spot which she 
Ifself, years before her death, selected 
f|! her grave, and to which she was wont 
retire for private and devotional 

ught. It is marked by an unfinished, 
imposing monument. The corner- 
e of this structure was laid by An- 
d|w Jackson, President of the United 
Stes at the time, on the IVa of May, 
l|3, in the presence of a large concourse 
ojpeople, and with' solemn ceremonials. 
ifer the lapse of almost a quarter of a 
cttury the monument remains still unfin- 
ifi'd. The mother of Washington re- 
s|d, during the latter part of her life, 
ir|l''redericksburg, near the spot where 



she now lies buried. In a house recently 
occupied by Mr. Richard SterUng, at the 
corner of Charles and Lewis Streets, her 
last but memorable interview with her il- 
lustrious son took place when she was 
bowed down with age and disease. The 
principal hotel in the town, and indeed 
almost the only one left open for travel- 
lers, is the Planters' House. 



BOUTE ir. 

Richmond to Burkesville, Lynchburg, 
Lexington, and Bristol, by Richmond 
and Danville Railway. 

Biarlfesville (54 miles), in Prince 
Edward County, is situated at the junc- 
tion of the Richmond and Danville Rail- 
way with the Southside Railway. The 
surrender of the shattered Army of Vir- 
ginia was made near here, April, 1865. 

Ijymclalmi-g' (120 miles) is finely 
situated on the north bank of the James 
River. The town was founded in 1*786, 
and incorporated in 1805. The James 
River and Kanawha Canal, the greatest 
public work in Virginia, following the 
course of the river from Richmond, 
passes Lynchburg on its way to Buchanan 
and Covington. Distant from Richmond, 
by canal, 147 miles. The connecting 
roads with the South and Southwest are 
the Virginia and Tennessee Railway to 
Bristol, the East Tennessee and Virginia 
Railway to Knoxvillc, and the East Ten- 
nessee and Georgia Railway to Chatta- 
nooga. Distance to Chattanooga, 446 
miles. Lynchburg is on the route to and 
in the immediate vicinity of the Spring 
region. The Natural Bridge and the 
Peaks of Otter are here easUy accessible. 
(See descriptive sketches.) 

Slanville (141 miles), the terminus ^ 
of the Richmond and Danville Railway, is y 
pleasantly situated at the head of naviga- 
tion on the Dan River, five miles from the 
boundary line of North Carolina. Popu- 
lation 4,000. The Piedmont Railway, 
running 48 miles to Greensboro', N. C., 
terminates here. 

Hicxiiig-toii (155 miles) is charm- 
ingly situated on the North River, amidst 
the mountain and spring region of West- 
ern Virginia, 35 miles northwest of 
Lynchburg, from which point it is reach- 
333 



Hanover Court House.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Chaulottesvili.e. 



ed by stage. Washington College was 
founded in 1798, and was endowed by 
General Washington. The Virginia Mil- 
ilarg Instilute was established by the 
State Legislature in 1838-39. In July, 
1S56, a copy in bronze of Iloudon's statue 
of Washington, in the Capitol at llich- 
mond, was erected here. The town was 
laid out in 17*78. I'opulation about 
2,000, The Natiiiid Bridge and Peaks 
of Otter are v\ithin easy stage-ride. 



MOJJTE r. 

Richmond to Hanover C. H., Gordons- 
viLLE, Charlottesville, Monticello, 
Staunton, and Millboro, by Virginia 
Central Railway. 

Masiover CoM.rt-Hoii.se (18 
miles) is memorable as the scene of 
Patrick Henry's early oratorical triumphs, 
and as the birthplace of Henry Clay. It 
is pleasantly situated near the Pamunky 
River. Three miles from the Court- 
House, on the right of the turnpike road 
leading to Richmond, stands, or did when 
the author last visited it before the war, 
the house in which Clay was born. The 
building is a " one-story frame," with 
dormer windows, and a large outside 
chimney (after the universal fashion of 
Southern country-houses) at each gable. 
In this humble tenement the Senator who 
"would rather be right than be Presi- 
idcnt," was born, in 1777. The fiat, piny 
region, in which it is situated, is called 
the Slashes of Hanover ; hence the popu- 
lar sobriquet familiarly applied to the 
great statesman, of the " Millboy of the 
Slashes." Hanover awakens pleasant 
memories of Patrick Henry assembling 
bis volunteers and marching to Williams- 
burg to demand the restoration of the 
powder which Lord Dunmore had remov- 
ed from the public magazine, or payment 
therefor, a daring demand, which he 
however succeeded in enforcing, as the 
Governor, alarmed at the strength of his 
cortege, which grew as he went along to 
150 in numbei', sent out the Receiver- 
General with authority to compromise 
the matter. The young leader required 
and obtained the value of the powder, 
330 pounds, and sent it to the treasury at 
Williamsburg. This incident happened 
334 



at Newcastle, once a prosperous villufie, 
but now a ruin, with a single house ouly 
on its site. 

Croi-donsville (76 miles), in Or- 
ange County, is situated at the intersec- 
tion of the Orange and Alexandria Rail- 
way, to Lynchburg. 

Cliaa-lottesvillc (97 miles), fe- 
mous as the seat of the University of 
Virginia, and for its vicinage to Monticcl- 
lo, the home and tomb of Thomas Jeifer- 
erson, is situated on the Rivanna River, 
in the east-central part of the State, 119 
miles from Washington City by the 
Orange and Alexandria and the Virginia 
Central Railways. Tlie Universitu of 
Virginia, one of the most distinguished 
of the colleges of the United States, is 
situated about a _Tiile west of the village 
of Charlottesville. It is built on moder- 
atly elevated gi'ound, and forms a striking 
feature in a beautiful landscape. On the 
southwest it is shut in by mountains, be- 
yond which, a few miles distant, rise the 
broken, and occasionally steep and rug- 
ged, but not elevated ridges, the charac- 
teristic feature of which is expressed by 
the name of Ragged Mountains. To the 
northwest the Blue Ridge, some 20 miles 
off, presents its deep-colored outline, 
stretching to the northeast and looking 
down upon the mountain-like hills that 
here and there rise from the plain without 
its western base. To the east, the ere 
rests upon tho low mountain range that 
bounds the view as far as the vision can 
extend northeastward and southwest- 
ward along its slopes, except where it is 
interrupted directly to the east by a hilly 
but fertile plain, through which the Ei- 
vanna, with its discolored stream, flows 
by the base of Monticello. To the south, 
the view reaches far away until the hori- 
zon meets the plain, embracing a region 
lying between the mountains on either 
hand, and covered with forests inter 
spersed with spots of cultivated land. The 
University of Vii'ginia was founded in 
1819, by Thomas Jeiferson, and so great 
was his interest in its success, and his es- 
timate of its importance, that in his epi- 
taph, found among his papers, he ranks 
his share in its foundation third among 
the achievements and honors of his life— 
the authorship of the Declaration of In- 
dependence being the first, and of the 



II 



MONTICELLO.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Wheeling. 



Virginia Statute for Religious Freedom 
the second. The University is endowed 
and controlled by the State. 

Monticello, once the beautiful home, 
and now the tomb of Jefferson, is 
about four miles west of Charlottesville. 
,'' This venerated mansion," says Mr. Los- 
bing, in his "Field Book of the Revolu- 
tion," "is yet standing, though somewhat 
dilapidated and deprived of its former 
beauty by neglect. The furniture of its 
pistinguished owner is nearly all gone, 
lexcept a few pictures and mirrors ; other- 
ise the interior of the house is the same 
s when .Jefferson died. It is upon an 
minence, with many aspen-trees around 
t, and commands a view of the Blue 
idge for 150 miles on one side, and on 
;he other one of the most beautiful and 
sxtensive landscapes in the world. Wirt, 
writing of the interior arrangements of 
he house during Mr. Jefferson's lifetime, 
ecords that, in the spacious and lofty 
all which opens to the visitor on enter- 
' he marks no tawdry and unmean- 
g ornaments ; but before, on the right, 
n the left, all around, the eye is struck 
nd gratified by objects of science and 
ste, so classed and arranged as to pro- 
uce their finest effect. On one side 
[pecimens of sculpture, set out in such 
rder as to exhibit at a coup cCceil the 
istoric progress of that art, from the 
rst rude attempts of the aborigines of 
ur country, up to that exquisite and 
nished bust of the great patriot himself, 
cm the master-hand of Cerracchi. On 
e other side, the visitor sees displayed 
vast collection of the specimens of the 
bdian art, their paintings, weapons, or- 
laments, and manufactures ; on another, 
array of fossil productions of our 
untry, mineral and animal; the petri- 
d remains of those colossal monsters 
hich once trod our forests, and are no 
lore; and a variegated display of the 
] ranching honors of those monarchs of 
le waste that still people the wilds of 
e American Continent ! In a large sa- 
on were exquisite productions of the 
winter's art, and from its windows open- 
a view of the surrounding country 
ch as no painter could imitate. There 
re, too, medallions and engravings in 
•eat profusion.' Monticello v/as a point 
great attraction to the learned of all 



lands, when travelling in this country, 
while Mr. Jefferson lived. His writings 
made him favorably known as a scholar, 
and his public position made him honor- 
ed by the nations. The remains of Mr. 
Jefferson lie in a small family cemetery 
by the side of the winding road leading 
to Monticello." Over them is a granite 
obelisk 8 feet high, which bears the fol- 
lowing inscription : 

" HEEE Lies BTTEIED 

THOMAS JEFFERSON, 

Author of the Declaration of Independence ; 

of the Statute of Virginia for Religions Freedom ; 

And Father of the University of Virginia." 

Sta.iisa.toxiL (136 miles) is pleasantly 
located in Augusta County, upon a small 
branch of the Shenandoah River. It is a 
pretty and prosperous village, with a pop- 
ulation of between 2,000 and 3,000. The 
Western Lunatic Asylum and the State 
Institution for the Deaf, Dumb, and 
Blind, are among its principal objects of 
interest. It is the main point of rendez- 
vous for tourists to the spring region, 
hard by. Weyer^s and Madison's caves 
(18 miles) are reached by stage. 



ROUTE VI. 

Mai'pei-'s ITerry (160 miles 
north of Richmond). See Maryland, for 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway. 

"li^iaacliester (30 miles from Har- 
per's Ferry), by Winchester and Potomac 
Railway, is in the midst of a pleasant and 
picturesque country in the northwestern 
part of the State 20 miles west of the 
Blue Ridge, and within the limits of the 
great Valley of Virginia. Ice Mountain, 
in Hampshire County, 26 miles north- 
west from Winchester, is a natural curi- 
osity. Blocks of ice are found here at 
all seasons of the year. On the west 
side of the North Mountain in this coun- 
ty, are the famous Capon Springs, Candy 
Castle, the Tea Table, and the Hanging 
Rocks, are notable curiosities in this re- 
gion. 

"WlieeliiBg', the capital of West 
Virginia, and the terminus of the Balti- 
more and Ohio Railway, is situated on the 
east bank of the Ohio River, and on both 
sides of Wheeling Creek, 379 miles west 
of Baltimore, 95 miles below Pittsburg, 
335 



Wellsbdrg.] 



VIEGINIA. 



[The Springs. 



and 365 miles above Cincinnati. It 
has railroad communication with the 
cities of Cleveland and Pittsburg, and is 
also the terminus of the Hempfield Rail- 
road. The site of the city is an alluvial 
tract extending along the river bank a 
distance of three miles of varying width, 
shut in by hills. It has important man- 
ufactories of iron, glass, and paper. The 
first settlement was made in IJQd. The 
suspension bridge across the Ohio 
River has a span of 1,010 feet. It 
is built of wire, and cost $210,000. 
The tops of the towers are 153 feet 
from low-water mark. The city contains 
a handsome court-house, a custom house, 
and twenty church edifices. Extensive 
vineyards are in the neighborhood. Popu- 
lation 22,000 

liVellsljiirg', on the Ohio River, 16 
miles above Wheeling, was laid ■ out in 
1789, and named after Alexander Wells, 
who built the first flouring-mills on the 
Ohio. It was originally called Charles- 
town. Among the early settlers was 
Joseph Doddridge, author of the " Indian 
Wars of Northwestern Virginia." Rich 
coal mines are in the vicinity. Bethany, 
eight miles distant, is the seat ot a col- 
lege, founded in 1841, by Rev. Alexander 
Campbell. 

I?arliei*sl>rarg-, the second city 
of Western Virginia, and the county seat 
of Wood County, is pleasantly situated on 
the Ohio at the mouth of the Little Ka- 
nawha River. It was laid out in 1817, 
incorporated in 1820, and chartered in 
1860. It has had a rapid gi-owth since 
the formation of the State ; the streets 
are well laid out. Oil wells abound in 
the vicinity. Good turnpike roads lead 
to Winchester and Staunton. Popula- 
tion 6,000. 



THE SJPMIWGS. 

As the spring? of Virginia furnish an 
important characteristic feature of the 
State, and annually attract a large con- 
course of visitors, I have thought it best 
to devote a considerable portion of this 
(chapter wholly to them. First, as to the 
best means of reaching them. From 
Richmond, the Virginia Central via Staun- 
ton, Goshen to Millboro', and thence by 
336 



stage and the Richmond and Danville 
and Southside Railways to Lynchburg, 
and thence via Lexington, Ky., afibrJ 
the easiest routes. From Baltimore and 
Washington the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
way to Harper's Ferry and Winchester and 
thence by stage or the ferry to Alexan- 
dria, and thence by Orange and Alexan- 
dria and Virginia Central Railways as be- 
fore. The latter is the more expeditious, 
though not so interesting. Approaching 
from the south, travellers should diverge 
from Richmond. From the west, passen- 
gers should leave the Ohio River route at t 
Guyandotte, and thence by stage. For 
minute details, consult the recent news- 
paper announcements and the hotel-keep- 
ers. The best time to visit these springs 
and drink the waters is from 1st July to 
September. A few words of advice to 
those who visit them, as most do, for the 
benefit of their health, contributed by 
one who is qualified to give advice in 
such matters, are inserted here : " When 
the patient, under proper advice, has se- 
lected and arrived at the Spring where 
he expects relief, there are some obser- 
vances so essential to his success, that in 
a work professing in some degree to serve 
as his guide, it would be improper to omit 
calling attention to them. If he has di- 
rections from his family physician, the 
first question that suggests itself is. Is 
he in the precise condition in which that 
physician saw him ? If he be not, what 
change has taken place, and what new 
symptoms have occurred ? It will readi- 
ly be understood, that if the journey has 
been tedious and laborious, as in visits 
from the distant States must be the case, 
the invalid may have sufifered from a 
change of water, he may be in a state 
of over-excitement, or exhaustion, from 
v/ant of sleep, fatigue, or want of accus- 
tomed comforts. He may, from expos- 
ure, have taken cold and be in the incipi- 
ent stage of catarrhal fever. His liver 
may have been deranged by the journey. 
His arterial and nervous system may be 
abnormally excited. He may have head- 
ache, furred tongue, or he may be con- 
stipated, or in other respects 'o%it of 
sorts,' and so on ad nauseam,.'''' In all 
such cases, and they are of course numer- 
ous, the only relief to be hoped for is by 
sending the patient to the water adapted 



The Springs.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[The Springs. 



to his disease. " Whether he employs a 
physician or not, let me say to the inva- 
lid: 'Be in slow haste.' Survey the 
whole ground according to the sugges- 
tions I have laid before you. Do not 
gulp down large quantities of water to 
expedite a cure. It would be about as 
wise as the conduct of a man who eats to 
repletion, in order to get the worth of his 
money, or as that of the old negro who 
swallowed down all the physic left by his 
master, lest it should go to waste. Be 
moderate in all things. Take the water 
so as to insure its gradual diffusion 
through your system, that you may ob- 
tain that invisible and silent alterative ac- 
tion which is eventually to eradicate your 
disease. Go to work coolly, calmly, and 
systematically, and you will own the ben- 
efit of the advice." " Follow as near as 
circumstances will permit the following 
course of treatment : If the weather and 
other circumstances admit, rise about 6, 
throw your cloak on your shoulders, visit 
the Spring, take a small-sized tumbler of 
water, move about in a brisk walk; drink 
again at &\, continuing moderate exer- 
cise — again at Y ; breakfast about 8, but 
let it be moderate and of suitable quality. 
In most cases, a nice tender mutton-chop, 
or a fresh soft-boiled egg, or venison, or 
beef-steak is admissible. Eat stale bread, 
or corn mush, or hominy — the latter a 
delightful article to be found at some of 
the Springs — -a cup of black tea, not 
strong, or a glass of unslcimmed milk. If 
you value your health less than the grati- 
fication of your palate and stomach, you 
can indulge in buckwheat cakes, floating 
in butter, omelets of stale eggs, strong 
coffee, half-baked pastry, rich pates, hot 
bread, and such like, and take the conse- 
Iquences. After breakfast, walk, ride, or 
drive till near noon. Eat no luncheon at 
noon, but take a glass of water, and 
jwalk in the shade. Drink again at 
12^ — again at 1. Dine about 2. Eat for 
17'ishmcnt, and not for luxury. Avoid 
i)i'.d potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips, 
unions, salt meat of every description, 
iKi^try, fruits, either cooked or in their 
iKitural state. Though innocent else- 
u here, they are not usually so at mineral 
waters. Amuse yourself in social inter- 
course or gentle exercise until 6, take a 
^lass of water — walk or ride until sup- | 
15 



per — take a cup of black tea or a glass 
of milk and a cracker." Avoid as much 
as possible all excitements and late hours. 
J7ie White Sulphur Springs. — Not 
knowing which of the several routes our 
traveller may desire to follow, we shall, 
instead of journeying in any prescribed 
line from Spring to Spring, jump at once 
to that central and most famous point, 
the White Sulphur. This favorite Spa 
is on Howard's Greek, in Greenbrier 
County, directly on the edge of the Great 
Western Valley, and near the base of the 
Alleghany range of mountains, which rise 
at all points in picturesque and winning 
beauty. Kate's Mountain, which recalls 
some heroic exploits of an Indian maiden 
of long ago, is one fine point in the scene, 
southward ; while the Greenbrier Hills 
lie two miles away, toward the west, 
and the lofty Alleghany towers up ma- 
jestically on the north and east. The 
Hot Spring is 38 miles distant, on the 
north ; the Sweet Spring, 17 miles to the 
eastward ; the Salt and the Eed Springs, 
24 and 41 miles, respectively, on the 
south; and the Blue Spring, 22 miles 
away, on the west. The vicinage of the 
White Sulphur is as grateful in natural 
attraction as the waters are admirable in 
medicinal value. Its locale is a charming 
valley, environed, like that of Rasselas, 
by soaring hills, and the summer home in 
its midst has all the conveniences and 
luxuries of a veritable Castle of Indo- 
lence. Fifty acres, perhaps, are occupied 
with lawns and walks, and the cabins 
and cottages of the guests, built in rows 
around the public apartments, the dming- 
room, the ball-room, etc., give the place 
quite a merry, happy village air. There 
is Alabama Row, Louisiana, Paradise, 
Baltimore, and Virginia Rows, Georgia, 
Wolf, and Bachelor's Rows, Broadway, 
the Colonnade, Virginia Lawn, the 
Spring, and other specialties. The cot- 
tages are built of wood, brick, and of 
logs, one story high ; and, altogether, the 
social arrangement and spirit here, as at 
all the surrounding Springs, has a pleas- 
ant, quiet, home sentiment, very nuich 
more desirable than the metropolitan 
temper of more accessible and more 
thronged resorts. It is said that the site 
of these Springs was once the favorite 
hunting-ground of the Shawnees, a tradi- 
337 



The Springs.] 



VIRGINIA. 



tion supported by the remains found in 
various parts of tlie valley, in the shape 
of implements of the chase and ancient 
gi'aves. It is not known precisely at 
what period the Spring was discovered. 
Though the Indians undoubtedly knew 
its virtues, thei'e is no record of its being- 
used by the whites until 1^78. Log- 
cabins were first erected on the spot in 
I'ZSi-'Se, and the place began to assume 
something of its present aspect about 
1820. Since then it has been yearly im- 
proved, until it is capable of pleasantly 
housing some 1,500 guests. The spring 
bubbles up from the earth in the lowest 
part of the valley, and is covered by a 
pavilion, formed of twelve Ionic columns, 
supporting a dome, crowned by a statue 
of Hygeia. The Spring is at an elevation 
of 2,000 feet above tide-water. Its tem- 
perature is 62° Fahrenheit, and is uniform 
through all seasons. Its average yield is 
about thirty gallons per minute, and the 
supply is neither diminished in dry weath- 
er, nor increased by the longest rains. 

The Salt Sulphur Spi-ings, three in num- 
ber, are about twenty-four miles from the 
White Sulphur, near Union, the capital 
of Monroe County. Like the White Sul- 
phur, they are beautifully nestled in the 
lap of mountain ranges. The Springs 
are near the eastern base of Swope's 
Mountain. On the north, the Alleghany 
rises, while Peter's Mountain extends on 
the south and east. The Salt Sulphur 
was discovered in 1805, by Mr. Irwin 
Benson, while boring for salt water, 
which he was led to hope for by the fact 
that the spot had formerly been a favor- 
ite "lick" for deer and buffalo. The 
hotels and cottages at the Salt Sulphur 
have accommodation for four hundred 
guests. 

T/ie Blue Sulphur Spring, in Green- 
brier County, is another sweet valley 
nook, 22 miles west of the White Sul- 
phur, 32 north by east from the Red 
Sulphur, and 13 from Lcwisburg. It is 
upon the turnpike road to Guyandotte, 
on the Ohio. Its geographical position 
is within the magic hill-circle of the 
great group of the Westerne Springs, en- 
joying all the healthful climates of that 
most salubrious of regions. A fine hotel 
180 feet in length, built of brick, with 
piazzas extending its entire length, affords 
338 



1 

[The SrniNGS. 1 

.._ \ 



good accommodation during the season. 
The Ri'd Sulphur Sprhiffs, in the south- 
ern portion of Monroe County, are 42 
miles below the White Sulphur, lY from 
the Salt, 32 from the Blue, and 39 from 
the Sweet. The approach to these Springs 
is beautifully romantic and picturesque. 
Wending his way around a high moun- 
tain, the weary traveller is for a moment 
charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden 
view of his resting-place, some hundreds 
of feet immediately beneath him. Con- 
tinuing the circuitous descent, he at 
length reaches a ravine, which conducts 
him, after a few rugged steps, to the en- 
trance of a verdant glen, surrounded on 
all sides by lofty mountains. The south 
end of this enchanting vale, which is the 
widest portion of it, is about two hundred 
feet in width. Its course is nearly north 
for about one hundred and fifty yards, 
when it begins gradually to contract, and 
changes its direction to the northwest 
and west, until it terminates in a narrow 
point. This beautifully secluded Tempo 
is the chosen site of the village. The 
northwest portion is occupied by stables, 
carriage-houses, and shops of various 
sorts ; the southern portion, just at the 
base of the east and west mountains, is 
that upon which stand the various edi- 
fices for the accommodation of visitors. 
These buildings are spacious and con- 
veniently arranged, while the prome- 
nades, which are neatly enclosed by a 
white railing, are beautifully embellished, 
and shaded from the mid-day sun by 
large, umbrageous sugar-maples. The 
Spring is situated at the southwest point 
of the valley, and the water is collected 
into two white marble fountains, over 
which is thrown a substantial cover. 
These Springs have been known and dis- 
tinguished as a watering-place for nearly 
sixty years. The improvements at the 
place are extensive and well-designed, 
combining elegance with comfort, and 
are sufficient for the accommodation of' 
350 persons. The water of the spring i3 
clear and cool, its temperature being 54° 
Fahrenheit. T7ie Sweet Spriugs are in 
the eastern part of Moiu-oe County, 17 
miles southeast of the White Sulphur 
and 22 from the Salt Sulphur. They 
have been known longer than any other 
mineral waters in Virginia, having been 



.If 



The Springs.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[The Springs. 



discovered as early as 1'764. So long 
ago as 1YY4 these waters were analyzed 
by Bishop Madison, then the President 
of William and Mary College. They lie 
in a lovely valley, five miles in length, 
and between a mile and half a mile broad. 
The Alleghany Mountain bounds them on 
the north, and the Sweet Spring Mountain 
rises on the south. The hotel here is of 
noble extent, 250 feet long, with a dining- 
hall of 160 feet. The Red Sweet Springs 
are a mile only from the Sweet Springs 
just mentioned, on the way to the White 
Sulphur. This water is chalybeate, and a 
powerful agent in cases requiring a tonic 
treatment. The landscape here is most 
agreeable. A mile and a half from the 
Sweet Springs are the Beaver-dam 
Falls. 



THEEMAL "W A TEES. 

TJie Warm Springs are in Bath Coun- 
ty, about lYO miles, nearly west, on the 
great Sfiriug route fuom Staunton. 
They are situated in a delightful valley, 
between lofty hill ranges. Pine views 
are opened all about on the Warm Spring 
Mountain. Prom the " Gap," where 
the road crosses, and from "the -Rock," 
2,700 feet above tide-water, the display is 
deservedly famous. 

Tlie Baih Ahmx Springs are at the 
eastern base of the Warm Spring Moun- 
tain, five miles east of the Warm Springs, 
47 miles east of the Wliite Sulphur, and 
45 Vilest of Staunton. The valley of the 
Bath Alum is a cosy glen of 1,000 
acres, sliut in, upon the east, by Mc- 
Clung's Ridge ; on the southeast by 
Shayer's Mountain ; on the west by the 
Piney Ridge ; and on the southwest by 
Little Piney. 

Hot Springs. — Five miles removed 
from the Warm Springs, at the intersec- 
tion of two narrow valleys, are the Hot 
Springs. The scenery here, though very 
agreeable, as is that of all the region 
roimd, is not especially striking. Heal- 
ing Spring.i, Bath County. — These ther- 
mal waters lie in a jjleasant valley of 
eight or ten miles' extent, between the 
Warm Spring Mountain on the east and 
the Valley Mountain on the west. In the 
ocighborliood is a fine cascade. 



The Rockbridge Alum Springs are in 
Rockbridge County, on the main road 
from Lexington to tlie Warm Springs, 17 
miles from the first and 22 from the sec- 
ond point. The valley in which they are 
found lies below the North Mountain on 
the east and the Mill Mountain on the 
west. 

T/ie Fauquier White Sidplmr, in Fau- 
quier County, are 40 miles from Fred- 
ericksburg and 132 miles from I^ch- 
mond. They are quickly reached by rail 
from either point. 

Jordan's White Sulphur. These Springs 
are in Frederick County, five miles ft-om 
Winchester, and one mile and a half 
from Stephenson Depot, on the Winches- 
ter and Potomac Railway. Distance 
from Harper's Ferry 28^ miles. 

The Capon Springs are 23 miles south- 
west of Winchester, at the base of the 
North Mountain. Take the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railway, from Baltimore to 
Harper's Ferry, 82 miles ; thence the 
Potomac and Winchester, 32 miles, to 
Winchester; thence by stage; or take 
the Orange and Alexandria road from 
Alexandria, 27 miles, to Manassas Station 
and the Manassas Gap Railway, 61 miles 
more, to Strasburg. 

The Shannondale Springs are in Jef- 
ferson Couirty, five miles and a half from 
Charleston, a point on the railway from 
Harper's Ferry to Winchester. Distance 
to Charleston from Harper's Ferry, 10 
miles; from Baltimore, 92 miles. Tlie 
Berkeley Springs, Morgan County, are 
two miles and a half from Sir John's 
Run, a point on the Baltimore and Ohio 
Railway 130 miles west of Baltimore. 
This is a very ancient and distinguished 
resort, esteemed and frequented by Wash- 
ington before the Revolution. Commo- 
dious hotels. 

DibrelVs Sp>ring is on the main road 
from Lynchburg to the White Sulphur, 
19 miles v^est, by a direct road from the 
Natural Bridge. It is in the extreme 
northwestern part of Botetourt County, 
30 miles east of the Alleghanies, and at 
the base of Gordon Mountain. 

The Alleghany Springs are in Mont- 
gomery County, on the south fork of the 
Roanoke River, 10 miles east of Chris- 
tiansbui'g, on the Virginia and Tennessee 
Railway. From Richmond to Christians- 
339 



TuE Natural Bridge.] 



VIRGmiA. 



[The Natural Bridge 



burg, 210 miles west ; from Lynchburg, 
8(J miles. 

New London Alum is in the County of 
Campbell, 10 miles southwest of Lynch- 
burg. 

Grayson's Sulphur are west of the 
Blue Ridge, in Carroll County, 20 miles 
south of Wytheville, on the New River 
— a region of remarkable natural beauty. 

Pulaski Alum Spring^ in Pulaski Coun- 
ty, on Little Water Creek, 10 miles from 
Newbern, and seven miles, in a direct 
line, from the Virginia and Tennessee 
Railway. 

TJie Huguenot Springs is a watering- 
place in Powhatan County, 17 miles 
from Richmond. Take the Richmond 
and Danville Railway to the Springs sta- 
tion, about 10 miles, thence by good 
omnibuses or stages. A pleasant excur- 
sion from Richmond. There are many 
other mineral fountains in Virginia, dis- 
covered and undiscovered. We have 
mentioned only those of much resort. 

7716 Natural Bridge is in Rockbridge 
County, in Western Virginia, 63 miles 
from the White Sulphur Springs. From 
Washington, the traveller hither may 
take the Orange and Alexandria Railway 
to Gordonsville, on the Virginia Central 
and the Central to Millboro', and thence 
by stage. From Richmond or other points 
by railway to Lynchburg, and thence by 
canal packet thirty-five miles to the bridge. 
Fi'om Lexington the distance is 14 miles, 
six of which are over a heavy road. It 
is situated at the bottom of the deep 
chasm in which flows the little stream 
called Cedar Creek, and across the top of 
which, from brink to brink, there still ex- 
tends an enormous rocky stratum, that 
time and gravity have moulded into a 
graceful arch. The bed of Cedar Creek 
is more than two hundred feet below the 
surface of the plain, and the sides of the 
enormous chasm, at the bottom of which 
the water flows, are composed of solid 
rock, maintaining a position almost per- 
pendicular. These adamantine walls do 
not seem to be water-worn, but suggest 
the idea of an enormous cavern, that in 
remote ages may have been covered for 
miles by the continuation of that stratum 
of which all that now remains is, the arch 
of the Natural Bridge. The first sensa- 
340 



tion of the beholder is one of double 
astonishment: first, at the absolute sub- 
limity of the scene ; next, at the total in- 
adequacy of the descriptions he has read, 
and the pictures he has seen, to produce 
in his mind the faintest idea of the re- 
ality. The great height gives the arch 
an air of grace and lightness that must 
be seen to be felt, and the power of 
speech is for a moment lost in contem- 
plating the immense dimensions of the 
surrounding objects. The middle of the 
arch is forty-five feet in perpendicular 
thickness, which increases to sixty at its 
juncture with the vast abutments. Its 
top, which is covered with soil supporting 
shrubs of various sizes, is two hundred 
and ten feet high. It is sixty feet wide, 
and its span is almost ninety feet. 
Across the top passes a public road, and 
being in the same plane with the neigh- 
boring country, you may cross it in a 
coach without being aware of the inter- 
esting pass. There are several forest 
trees of large dimensions growing near 
the edge of the creek directly under the 
arch, which do not nearly reach its low- 
est part. The most imposing view is 
from about sixty yards below the bridge, 
close to the edge of the creek ; from that 
position the arch appears thinner, lighter, 
and loftier. From the edge of the creek, 
at some distance above the bridge, you 
look at the thicker side of the arch, 
which from this point of view approaches 
somewhat to the Gothic. A little above 
the bridge, on the western side of the 
creek, the wall of rock is broken into 
buttress-like masses, which rise almost 
perpendicularly to a height of nearly two 
hundred and fifty feet, terminating in 
separate pinnacles which overlook the 
bridge. When you are exactly under the 
arch, and cast your glance upward, the' 
space appeai''s immense ; and the symme-' 
try of the ellipsoidal concave formed by the 1 
arch and the gigantic walls from which it; 
springs, is wonderfully pleasing. From. 
t^iis position the views in both directions 
are subUme and striking from the im^^ 
mense height of the rocky walls, stretch, 
ing away in various curves, covered inl 
some places by the drapery of the forest^ 
green and graceful, and in others withoni 
a bramble or a bush, bare and blue. 
The Pcal-s of Otter. — These famouf 



TuE Peaks of Otter.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[The Peaks of Otter. 



mountaiu heights are in the same region as 
the Natural Bridge. They He in the county 
of Bedford, 10 miles from the village of 
Liberty, and 35 miles from Lynchburg. 
The summits of the Peaks of Otter are 
about two miles apart. The northern 
mountain rises 4,200 feet above the plain 
and 5,307 above the sea. It is the south- 
ern or conical peak which is most of- 
ten ascended. "After riding about a 
quarter of a mile," says a visitor to these 
peaks, "we came to the point beyoiid 
which horses cannot be taken, and dis- 
mounting from our steeds, commenced 
ascending on foot; the way was very 
steep, and the day so warm that we had 
to halt often to take breath. As we ap- 
proached the summit, the trees were all 
of a dwarfish growth, and twisted and 
gnarled by the storms of that high re- 
gion. There were also a few blackberry 
bushes, bearing their fruit long after the 
season had passed below. A few minutes 
longer brought us to where the trees 
ceased to grow ; but a huge mass of 
rocks, piled wildly on top of each other, 
finished the termination of the peak. 
Our path lay for some distance around 
the base of it, and under the overhang- 
ing battlements, and rather descending 
for a while, until it led to a part of the 
pile which could with some eflfort be 
scaled. There was no ladder, nor any ar- 
tificial steps, and the only means of as- 
cent was by climbing over the successive 
rocks. We soon stood upon the wild 
platform of one of Nature's most magnifi- 
cent observatories, isolated and appar- 
ently above all things else terrestrial, and 
looking down upon and over a beautiful, 
variegated, and at the same time grand, 
wild, wonderful, and almost boundless 
panorama. Indeed, it was literally 
boundless, for there was a considerable 
haze resting upon some parts of the 
' world below,' so that, in the distant ho- 
rizon, the earth and sky seemed insensi- 
bly to mingle with each other. I had 
been there before. I remember, wherf a 
boy of lit'tle more than ten years old, to 
have been taken to that spot, and how 
my unpractised nerves forsook me at the 
sublimity of the scene. On this day it 
was as new as ever ; as wild, wonderful, 
and sublime as if I had never before 
looked from those isolated rocks, or stood 



on that awful summit. On one side, tow- 
ard Eastern Virginia, lay a compara- 
tively level country in the distance, bear- 
ing strong resemblance to the ocean ; on 
the other hand were ranges of high 
mountains, interspersed with cultivated 
spots, and then terminating in piles of 
mountains, following in successive 
ranges, until they were lost also in the 
haze. Above and below, the Blue Ridge 
and Alleghanies ran off in long lines ; 
sometimes reUeved by knolls and peaks, 
and in one place above us making a grace- 
ful curve, and then again running off in a 
different line of direction. North of us, 
and on the other side of the Valley of 
Virginia, were the mountains near Lex- 
ington, just as seen from that beautiful 
village — the Jump, North, and House 
Mountains succeeding each other. They 
were familiar with a thousand associa- 
tions of our childhood, seeming mysteri- 
ously, when away from the spot, to bring 
my early home before me — not in imagi- 
nation such as had often haunted me 
when I first left to find another in the 
world, but in substantial reality. Fur- 
ther on down the valley, and at a great 
distance, was the top of a large moun- 
tain, which was thought to be the Great 
North Mountain, away down in Shenan- 
doah County. I am afraid to say how 
far off. Intermediate between these 
mountains, and extending opposite and 
far above us, vfas the Valley of Virginia, 
with its numerous and highly cultivated 
farms. Across this valley, and in the 
distance, lay the remote ranges of the 
Alleghany, and mountains about, and, I 
suppose beyond, the White Sulphur 
Springs. Nearer us, and separating East- 
ern and Western Virginia, was the Blue 
Ridge, more than ever showing the pro- 
priety of its cognomen of the ' back bone,' 
and on which we could distinctly see 
two zigzag turnpikes, the one leading to 
Eincastle, and the other to Buchanan, 
and over which latter we had travelled a 
few days before. With the spy-glass we 
could distinguish the houses in the village 
of Fincastle, some twenty-five or thirty 
mQes off, and the road leading to the 
town. Turning toward the direction of 
our morning's ride, we had beneath us 
Bedford County, with its smaller moim- 
tains, farms, and farm-houses, the beauti- 

34:1 



Madison's Cave.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[Blowing Catf.. 



ful village of Liberty, the county roads, 
and occasionally a mill-pond, I'eflecting 
the sun like a sheet of polished silver. 
The houses on the hill at Lynchburg, 
twenty-five or thirty miles distant, are 
distinctly visible on a clear day, and also 
Willis' Mountain, away down in Bucking- 
ham County. The tourist may take a 
carriage from Liberty or at Buchanan, to 
the Peaks. A fine, well-graded turnpike 
leads thence, and a good hotel is at the 
base of the mountain." Wci/er^s Cave. 
This wonderful place, scarcely inferior in 
its mysterious grandeur to the celebrated 
Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, is in the 
northeastern corner of Augusta County, 
VY miles from Staunton (on the Central 
Railway), 16 miles from Waynesboro', 
and 32 from Charlottesville. This cave 
was named after Bernard Weyer, who dis- 
covered it in 1804, while in chase of a 
wild animal who fled thither for escape. 
Many of the countless apartments in this 
grand subterranean castle are of exquisite 
beauty — others, again, are magnificent in 
their grand extent. Washington Hall, 
the largest chamber, is upwards of 250 
feet in length. Following its various 
avenues, the visitor may traverse this 
cave upwards of half a mile. To see 
it in all its beauty, lights should be 
used. 

Jlladison's Cave, within a few hundred 
yards of Weyer's, is thus described by Mr. 
Jefferson, in his " Notes on Virginia : " 
"It is on the north side of the Blue 
Ridge, near the intersection of the Rock- 
ingham and Augusta line with the south 
fork of the southern river Shenandoah. 
It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpen- 
dicular height, the ascent of which on 
one side is so steep, that you may pitch 
a biscuit from its summit into the river 
which washes its base. The entrance of 
the cave is in this side, about two-thirds 
of the way up. It extends into the earth 
about 300 feet, branching into subordi- 
nate caverns, sometimes ascending a lit- 
tle, but more generally descending, and 
at length terminates in two different 
places at basins of water of unknown ex- 
tent, and which I should judge to be 
nearly on a level with the v/ater of the 
river ; however, I do not think they are 
formed by refluent water from that, be- 
cause they are never turbid ; because 
342 



they do not rise and full in correspond- 
ence with that in times of flood, or of 
drought, and because the water is always 
cool. It is probably one of the many 
reservoirs with which the interior parts 
of the earth are supposed to abound. 
The vault of this cave is of solid lime- 
stone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high, 
through which water is continually perco- 
lating. This, trickling down the side* of 
the cave, has incrusted them over in the 
form of elegant drapery; and dripping 
from the top of the vault generates on 
that, and on the base below, stalactites 
of a conical form, some of which have 
met and formed massive columns." The 
Blowing Cave is on the stage road be- 
tween the Rockbridge and the Bath 
Alum Springs, one mile west of the vil- 
lage of Millboro'. When the internal 
and external atmosphere is the same, 
there is no perceptible current issuing 
frOm it. In intense hot weather, the 
air comes out with so much force as 
to prostrate the weeds at the entrance. 
In intense cold weather, the air draAvs in. 
There is a Floiving and Ebbing Spring on 
the same stream with the Blowing Cave. 
The Haivlc's Jsfest, sometimes called Mar- 
shaWs Pillar, is on New River, in Fayette 
County, a few rods only from the road "lead- 
ing from Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to the 
White Sulphur Springs — 96 miles from 
Guyandotte, and 64 miles from the 
Springs. It is an immense pillar of 
rock, with a vertical height of 1,000 feet 
above the bed of the river. " You leave 
the road by a little by-path, and after ^ 
pursuing it for a short distance, the' 
whole scene suddenly breaks upon you. 
But how shall we describe it ? The 
great charm of the whole is connected - ■ 
with the point of sight, which is the 
finest imaginable. You come suddenly 
to a spot which is called the Hawk's Nest. ^ 
It projects on the scene, and is so small -i* 
as to give standing only to some half •>:. 
dozen persons. It has on its head an 
old picturesque pine : and it breaks away ■■ I 
at your feet abruptly and in perpendicu- \ 
lar fines, to a depth of more than 1,000 ; 
feet. Standing on this ledge, which, by its 
elevated and detached character, afl'ects 
you with dizziness, the forest rises 
above and around you. Beneath and be- 
fore you is spread a lovely valley. A 



I 



Tua Ice Mountain.] 



VIRGINIA. 



[The Hanging Kocks. 



peaceful river glides down it, reflecting, 
like a mirror, all the lights of heaven, 
washes the foot of the rocks on which 
■you are standing, and then winds away 
into another valley at your right. The 
trees of the wood, in all their variety, 
stand out on the verdant bottoms, with 
tlicir heads in the sun, and casting their 
shadows at your feet, but so diminished 
as to look more like the pictures of the 
things than the things themselves. The 
green liills I'ise on either hand and all 
around, and give completeness and 
beauty to the scene. Beyond these 
appears the gray outline of the more dis- 
tant mountains, bestowing grandeur to 
what was supremely beautiful. It is ex- 
quisite. It conveys to you the idea of per- 
fect solitude." The Ice Mountain is a re- 
markable natural curiosity, in the county 
of Hampshire. It is upon the North River 
(eastei'n bank), 26 miles northwest of 
Winchester (see Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
way). The Salt Fond is a charming lake, 
on the summit of Salt Pond Mountain, one 
of the highest peaks of the Alleghanies. 
It is in Giles County, 10 miles east of 
Parisburg and live miles from the Hy- 



geian Springs. It abounds in fresh trout 
and other fish. Caudy's Castle was so 
named from having been the retreat of an 
early settler, when pursued by the Indians. 
It is the fragment of a mountain, in the 
shape of a half cone, with a very narrow 
base, which rises from the banks of the Ca- 
pon to the height of about 500 feet, and 
presents a sublime and majestic appear- 
ance. Caudi/s Cafile, as also the Tea- Ta- 
ble, and the Haoiging Rocks, mentioned be- 
low, may all be visited from the Capon 
Springs. The Tea- yaWe is about 10 miles 
from Can ly's Castle, in a deep, rugged glen 
three or four miles east of the Capon. It 
is about four feet in height, and the same 
in diameter. From the top issues a clear 
stream of water, which flows over the 
brim on all sides, and forms a fountain 
of exquisite beauty. The Hanging Rocks 
are about four miles north of Romney. 
There the Wappatomka River has cut its 
way through the mountain of about 500 
feet in height. The boldness of the rocks 
and the wildness of the scene surprise 
the beholder. Tradition makes it the scene 
of a bloody battle between the Delaware 
and Catawba Indians. 

343 



North Cakolina.] 



NORTH CAROLINA. 



[North Cakoljna. 



I^OETH CAEOLIITA. 



Immediately south of Virginia, and 
easily accessible either by laud or water, 
lies North Carolina, also one of the 
original Thirteen States of the American 
Confederacy. It lies between 33° 53' 
and 36° 33' N. latitude, and between '75° 
25' and 84° 30' W. longitude, and in- 
cludes an area of 50,704 square miles, or 
32,450,560 acres. It is bounded on the 
east and southeast by the Atlantic; on 
the south by South Carolina and Geor- 
gia; and northwest by Tennessee, from 
■which it is separated by the Appalachian 
Mountains. 

The history of the region does not pre- 
sent many very brilliant points, although 
attempts to colonize it were made at a 
very early day — as long ago as 1585-'89, 
by Sir Walter Raleigh — and though 
the people were engaged like their neigh- 
bors, in bloody struggles with the Indian 
tribes. The first permanent settlement 
was made in 1653. Yet the State did 
memorable service in the Revolution, 
and especially in being the first publicly 
and solemnly to renounce allegiance to 
the British crown, which she did in the 
famous Mecklenburg Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, May 20, 1*7 '75 — more than a 
year before the similar formal assertion 
of the other States. On the 20th of May, 
1861, the 86th anniversary of the Meck- 
lenburg Declaration of Independence, the 
Ordinance of Secession was passed. Mili- 
tary operations were immediately com- 
menced ; Federal forts, mint, and arsenal 
seized, and by June 15th a force of 20,- 
000 volunteers had been raised for the 
service of the Confederacy. During the 
memorable campaigns toward the close 
of the rebellion, this State was the scene 
of many a bloody battle. The naval 
bombardment and final capture of Fort 
Fisher, followed as it was by the occupa- 
344 



tion of Wilmington, Petersburg, and 
Richmond, formed one of the most bril- 
liant as well as decisive events of the 
whole war. 

In picturesque attraction the State is 
popularly considered to be wholly desti- 
tute — an impression which results from 
an erroneous estimate of her tojjography, 
which travellers in the course of years 
have made, from the uninteresting forest 
travel in the eastern portion, traversed by 
the great railway thoroughfares from the 
Northern to the Southern States ; the 
only highway until within very late years, 
and to this day the only one very much 
in use. The eastern part of North Caro- 
lina, stretching sixty miles inland, is 
a vast plain, sandy, and overrun with 
interminable forests of pine. Yet this 
wilderness is not without points and im- 
pressions of interest to the tourist, more 
particularly when it is broken, as it often 
is, by great stretches of dank marsh, 
sometimes opening into mystical-looking 
lakes, as on the Little Dismal Swamp, 
lying between Pamlico and Albemarle 
Sounds, and on the Great Dismal Swamp, 
which the State shares with Virginia. The 
staple productions of the " piney woods 
country," as it is called, are tar, pitch, 
and turpentine. The coast, too, of North 
Carolina, is one of the most celebrated on 
the western borders of the Atlantic — the 
one most watched and feared by mariners 
and all voyagers, that upon which the 
dreaded Capes Hatteras, Lookout, and 
Fear are found. While the innumerable 
bays, shoals, and islands are thus cautious- 
ly avoided by the passing mariner, they are 
as eagerly sought by the fisherman and 
the sportsman. Immense quantities of 
shad, and herring, and other fish, are 
taken here, and the estuaries of the rivers 
and the bavs are among the favorite re- 



North Carolina.] 



NORTH CAROLINA. 



[Raleigh. 



sorts of wild fowl of every species, mak- 
ing this coast scarcely less attractive to 
the sportsman than is the Chesapeake 
Bay and the shores of Long Island. 

The level region extends about 60 
miles from the coast, and is succeeded by 
the hilly country in the centre, which in 
turn gives place to the mountainous re- 
gion of the west. This section, when it 
comes to be better known, as the railways 
now approaching it from all sides promise 
that it soon will be, will place the State 
in public estimation among the most 
strikingly picturesque portions of the 
Union. The two great ridges of the Al- 
leghanies traverse this I'egion, some of 
their peaks rising to the noblest heights, 
and one of them (Mount Mitchell) reach- 
ing a greater altitude than any summit 
east of the Rocky Mountains. Wild 
brooks innumerable and of the richest 
beauty, water-falls, and lovely valleys, 
are found in this yet almost unknown 
land. 

Mineral products of great variety and 
value are found in North Carolina, as in 
the neighboring mountain districts of 
South Carolina and Georgia. Until the 
discovery of the auriferous lands of Cali- 
fornia, this was the most abundant gold 
tract in the United States. The mines 
here of this monarch of metals have been 
profitably worked for many years. At 
the branch mint in Charlotte, in the min- 
ing region, gold was coined, between and 
including the years 1838 and 1853, to 
the value of no less than $3,'790,033 ; the 
highest annual product being $396, 734, 
in the year 1852. " The copper lands of 
the State," says Professor Jackson, " are 
unparalleled in richness. Coal, too, both 
bituminous and anthracite, is found here 
in great abundance and of the finest 
quality. Iron ore also exists throughout 
the mountain districts. Limestone and 
freestone may be had in inexhaustible 
supply. Marl is abundant in all the 
counties on the coast, and silver, lead, 
manganese, salt, and gypsum, have been 
discovered." 

The rivers of North Carolina have no 
very marked picturesque character, ex- 
cept the mountain streams in the west, 
which are almost inaccessilile. The greater 
number of the rivers run from 200 to 400 
miles, in a southeast direction, through 



the State, to the Atlantic. A few small 
streams empty into the Tennessee. The 
Roanoke and the Chowan extend from 
Virginia to Albemarle Sound. The Cape 
Fear River traverses the State and enters 
the sea near the southern extremity of 
the State. Travellers by the old steam- 
boat route from Wilmington to Charles- 
ton will remember the passage of this 
river from the former place, 20 miles to 
its mouth at Smithville. The Neuse 
and the famous Tar River come from 
the north to Pamlico Sound. The Yad- 
kin and the Catawba enter South Caroli- 
na, and are there called, one the Great 
Pedee, and the other the Wateree. These 
and the other rivers of this State are so 
greatly obstructed at their mouths by 
sand-banks, and above by rapids and 
falls, that their waters are not navigable 
for any great distance, or by any other 
than small craft. Vessels drawing ten or 
twelve feet of water ascend the Cape Fear 
River as far as Wilmington, and light- 
draught steamboats go to Fayetteville. 
Steamboats sail up the Neuse 120 miles 
to Waynesboro, up the Tar 100 miles to 
Tarborough, up the Roanoke 120 miles to 
Halifax, and up the Chowan '75 miles. 
The State is divided into 86 counties, and 
contained in 1860 a population of nearly 
one million. Raleigh, near the Neuse 
River, is the capital of the State ; and 
Wilmington, 20 miles from the mouth of 
the Cape Fear River, is its chief commer- 
cial city. 

Maleig-la^ Hotel, Yarborough, 286 
miles from Washington, is reached from 
Richmond, Va., via Weldon, and thence 
by the Raleigh and Gaston Railway, 97 
miles. It is the capital of the State, and 
is beautifully situated four miles west 
of the Neuse River, a little northeast 
of the centre of the State. The seat of . 
Government was located here in 1*788, 
and named after Sir Walter Raleigh. 
Union Square is an open area of ten 
acres, occupying a centre, on the sides 
of which are the principal streets. The 
State House, which is on this square, 
is one of the most imposing capitols of 
the United States. It is built of gran- 
ite, after the model of the Parthenon, 
with massive columns and a grand dome, 
and cost half a million dollars, equal at 
the present time to nearly twice that sum. 
345 



Wilmington.] 



NORTH CAROLINA. 



[ClIAIlI.OTTK, 



The former State House was destroyed 
oy fire in 1831, and with it the celebrated 
statue of Washington by Canova. A 
destructive fire on the 'Zth of January, 
1831, laid a gi-eat partion of the city 
in aslies. The State Lunatic Asylum, 
and the Institution for the Deaf and 
Dumb, are both located here. Popula- 
tion 5,000. 

"%¥'el4lOBi, Hotel, GoucKs, is situ- 
ated on the Roanoke River, at the head 
of steamboat navigation, 95 miles north- 
east of Raleigh. It is an important rail- 
read centre, and a place of considerable 
trade. 

45©Iilstsor©', in Wayne County, is 
situated near the Neuse River, at the 
point where it is crossed by the Wilming- 
ton and Weldon Railway, 50 miles south- 
east of Raleigh. The Neuse is navigable 
to this point three-fourths of the year. 
The city has immediate railroad connec- 
tion with roads north and south. It was 
occupied by the Federal forces in March, 
1865. It has had a very rapid growth. 
The first house was erected in 1841, the 
present population exceeds 3,500. The 
Granger House has good accommodation 
for travellers. 

Ne^vlses-m, a pleasant old town of 
about 5,000 inhabitants, is at the conflu- 
ence of the Neuse and the Trent Rivers, 
midway on the Atlantic line of the State, 
50 miles above Pamlico Sound. It is on 
the line of the Atlantic and North Caro- 
lina Railvi^ay, which extends from Golds- 
boro' to Morehead City, opposite Beau- 
fort. Distance from Goldsboro', 59 
miles ; from Morehead City, 86 miles. 
This place was attacked and captured 
during the late war by the forces imder 
General Burnside, March 14, 1861, after 
a sharp engagement of four hours. 

lSeaiilOT"t is at the mouth of New- 
port River, 168 miles east-southeast of 
Raleigh, and 11 miles northwest of Cape 
Lookout. The harbor, the best in the 
State, was much frequented by the 
several naval expeditions fitted out 
against Fort Fisher, Wilmington, and 
other points on the coast. Fort Macon, 
at the entrance to the harbor, is worthy a 
visit. The beach in the vicinity affords 
fine bathing. 

"WifiMiirngtoaa, the largest and the 
346 



chief commercial city of North Carolina, 
is in the southeastern extremity of the 
State, upon the Cape Fear River, 20 mileo 
from the sea, 135 miles southeast of 
Raleigh, and 162 from Weldon. It was 
originally called Newton, and was named 
Wilmington after the English nobleman of 
that name, to whose patronage Governor 
Johnston was indebted for his office. It 
offers, however, no very great attractions 
to the traveller in quest of the pictu: 
esque, though 'it played a part in thi 
drama of the Revolution. Major. Crai^ 
took possession of the town in January^ 
1781, and occupied it until the surrender 
of Cornwallis. It fell into the possession 
of the combined miUtary and naval Union 
forces, February 22, 1865. It has been 
twice visited by fire, first in 1819, and 
last upon the evacuation of the rebel 
troops in 1865. It has several fine pub- 
lic buildings, a theatre, three newspapers, 
but no good hotel. Population 10,000. 
Steamships ply weekly to New York; 
daily communication by rail with Rich- 
mond and Charleston, S. C. ForU Fish- 
er and Casivell, and the village of Smith- 
viUe, at the mouth of the Cape Fear 
River, will interest the visitor. The first- 
named work withstood the most terrific 
bombardment of the war through two 
attacks, but was finally captured with the 
aid of the land forces under General 
Terry, Feburary 15th, 1865, after a most 
gallant defence. 

l^'ayettcville is at the head of 
navigation on Cape Fear River, 60 miles 
south of Raleigh, and 100 miles above 
Wilmington. Reached at present on 
plank roads from Raleigh, and from the 
Wilmington and Weldon Railway. Pre- 
vious to the war it was a thriving city of 
8,000 inhabitants. Here General Sher- 
man halted his army from the 12th to 
the 15th of March, 1865, previous to cross- 
ing the river to Goldsboro'. The arsenal 
and other important buildings were de- 
stroyed. 

daaa°lof.te.— Hotel, Mansion House. 
This is a thriving town on Sugar Creek, 
158 miles west-southwest of Raleigh. 
Distant from Charleston, 237 miles ; from 
Columbia, S. C, 109 miles. A plank road 
runs 120 miles to Fayettcville, on Cape 
Fear River. The town lies in the midst of 



?9l 



fli 



The Mountain Region.] 



NORTH CAROLINA. 



[The Mountain Resign. 



the gold region of the State, and is the seat 
of a United States branch mint. Some 
interesting historical memories are awak- 
ened at Charlotte. It was here that the 
patriots of Mecklenburg County assem- 
bled in convention, in 1775, and boldly 
passed a series of resolutions, declaring 
themselves independent of the British 
Crown, thus anticipating by a year the 
immortal Declaration of "76. The British 
troops occupied the tovm in 1780, and for 
II little while it was the headquarters of 
the American forces. Here General 
Greene took command of the Southern 
army from General Gates, fifty days after 
the departure of Cornwallis. Battle of 
Guilford Court Hoicse. — The scene of this 
interesting event in the history of the 
American Revolution is in the County of 
Guilford, in the northwestern part of the 
State. 

THE MOUNTAIN- EEGION. 

To reach the mountain region of North 
Carolina from the north, follow the great 
southern route from Washington, via the 
Orange and Alexandria, Virginia and Ten- 
nessee, and the East Tennessee and Vir- 
ginia Railway, via Lynchburg to Bristol. 
From Charleston, S. C, take the South 
Carolina Railway to Spartanburg, and 
thence by stage to Asheville ; or railway 
lines through from Charleston, via Colum- 
bia, S. C, and Charlotte, N. C., to Salis- 
bury, on the North Carolina Central route, 
and thence to Catawba, Morganton, and 
Asheville. The Swannonoa Gap is a 
magnificent mountain pass, between Ashe- 
ville and Morganton. The Falls of the 
Catawba are hard by. The Hickory Nut 
Gap is another grand cleft in the giant 
hills, rich in wonderful pictures of preci- 
pices and cascades. Black Mountain, 20 
miles northeast of Asheville, is a semi- 
circular mass of land, about 20 miles in 
length, deriving its name from the dark- 
green foliage of the balsam fir-trees 
(vhich line its top and sides. Clingman's 
and Mitchell's Peaks, the former 6,941, 
and the latter 6,732 feet high, are the 
most elevated points east of the Rocky 
Mountain ranges. The scene from either 
^uinmit is one of surpassing grandeur. 
Pilot Mountain, in Burke County, is a 



bold peak, almost isolated in the midst of 
a comparatively level region. In the 
olden time it was the landmark of the 
Judians in their forest wanderings ; hence 
its present name. The HaivFs Bill, ia 
Burke County, is a stupendous projecting 
cliff, looking down 1,500 feet upon the 
waters of a rushing river. The Table 
Bock, a few miles below the Hawk's 
Bill, rises cone-shaped, 2,500 feet above 
the valley of the Catawba River. The 
Ginger Cake Bock, also in Burke County, 
is a singular pile, upon the summit of the 
Ginger Cake Mountain. It is a natural 
stone structure, in the form of an invert- 
ed pyramid, 29 feet in height. It is 
crowned with a slab, 32 feet long and 
two feet thick, which projects half its 
length beyond the edge of the pyramid 
upon which it is so strangely poised. 
Though seeming just ready to fall, noth- 
ing could be more secure. A fine view 
down the dark ravine below is command- 
ed at this point. The French Broad 
Biver, in its wild mountain course of 40 
miles or more, from Asheville to the 
Tennessee line, abounds in admirable 
scenes. It is a rapid stream, and in all 
its course lies deep down in mountain 
gorges — now foaming over its rocky path- 
way, and now sleeping, sullen and dark, 
at the base of huge precipitous cliffs. A 
fine highway follows its banks, and often 
trespasses upon its waters, as it is crowd- 
ed by the overhanging cliffs. Near the 
Tennessee boundary, and close by the 
Warm Springs, this road lies in the 
shadow of the bold mountain precipices 
known as the Painted Rocks and the 
Chimneys. The Painted Bocks have a 
perpendicular elevation of between 200 
and 300 feet. Their name is derived 
from the Indian pictures yet to be seen 
upon them. The Chimneys are lofty 
cliffs, broken at their summits into detach- 
ed piles of rock, bearing much the like- 
ness of colossal chimneys, a fancy great- 
ly improved by the fire-place looking re- 
cesses at their base, and which serve as 
turnouts in the narrow causeway. The 
picture embracing the angle in the river, 
beyond the Chimney Rocks, is especially 
fine. The Indian name of the French 
Broad is TseRca. Under this title Mr. W. 
Gilmore Simms has woven into beautiful 
3i7 



The Mouxtais Eegiox.] NORTH CAROLINA. 



[The MorxTAiN Regi 



Terse a charming legend of the river. 
" The tradition of the Cherokees," he 
says, " asserts the existence of a siren in 
the French Broad, who implores the 
hunter to the stream, and strangles him 
in her embrace, or so infects him with 
Bome mortal disease, that he invariaVjly 
348 



perishes." The Warm Springs, acroM' 
the river from the vicinage of the Painted 
Rocks, is a very pleasant and popular 
summer resort. The excellent hotel here 
occupies a fine plateau, very grateful to 
the sight, in its contrast with the rugged 
character of the wild landscape around. 



I 



I 



South Cakolina.] 



SOUTH CAEOLINA. 



[South Carolina. 



SOUTH CAEOLINA. 



South Carolina is one of the most in- 
teresting States in tlie Union, in its legen- 
daiy and historical stoi\y, in its social 
characteristics, and in its physical aspect. 
Upon its settlement by the English, in 
1670, John Locke, the fomo^is lAiloso- 
pher, framed a constitution for the young 
colony, after the pattern of that of Plato's 
Model Republic. The first settlement 
was at Port Royal. Later (1690), the na- 
tive poetic humor of the people received 
a new stimulus from the influx of French 
Huguenots, driven from their own land 
by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 
outh Carolina remained a proprietary 
ovcrnment until 1719, when it became a 
•oyal colony. The chivalric spirit of the 
cople was fostered by the wars which 
hey shared with the Georgians, under 
Oglethorpe, against the Spaniards in Plor- 
da, and l^y the gallant struggles in which 
hey were perpetually involved with the 
f emassec and other Indian tribes. Next 
ame the long and painful trial of the 
ievolutiou, in which these resolute peo- 
)le were among the first and most ardent 
o take up arms in the cause of right — 
he most persistent and self-sacrificing in 
he prosecution of the contest, under every 
'( hufl", and the last to leave the bloody 
lul devastating fight. The colony took 
,u active part in exciting and carrying on 
lie revolt of the colonies, and furnished 
pwards of 6,000 troops to the Federal 

i)rces. Among the conspicuous fights 
hich took place v^ithin the limits of the 
tate, were those at Fort Moultrie, 
harleston, Camden, King's Mountain, 
iUtaw Springs, and Cowpens. The State 
;is occupied by the British during the 
leater part of 1780-'81. 
South Carolina has gone further than 
ly other State in asserting the rights 
id powers of the sovereign States in op- 



position to the Federal Government, and 
was the first to rise in rebellion after the 
election of Mr. Lincoln to the Pi-esidency, 
in 1860. The Ordinance of Secession was 
passed December 20, 1860, and on 
February 18, 1865, the city of Charleston 
was occupied by the United States sol- 
diers, and the national flag again floated 
over the city and Fort Sumter. 

The na-tural aspect of the Palmetto State 
is exceedingly varied. On the seaboard 
and the south broad savannas, and deep, 
dank lagunes, covered with teeming fields 
of rice, and fruitful in a thousand changes 
of tropical vegetation ; in the middle dis- 
tricts great undulating meadows, over- 
spread with the luxuriant maize, or white 
with snowy carpetings of cotton ; and, 
again, to the northward, bold mountain 
ranges, valleys, and waterfalls. The poet 
has thus recorded its attractions : 

" The sunny land, the snnny land, wliere Naturci 

lias displayed 
Herfairest works, with lavish hand, in hill, in 

vale, and s:lade ; 
Her streams flow on in melodj-, through fair and 

Iruitlul plains ; 
And, from the moimtains to the sea, with beauty 

plenty reigns." 

Among the rivers of South Carolina, 
the Savannah, Great Pedee, the Santee 
and its affluents, the Congaree and Wat- 
erce, Saluda and Broad Rivers, Edisto 
and Combahee, together aflbrding an in- 
land navigation of 2,400 miles, are the 
most important. 

Formerly the most popidar resorts for 
tourists through the State, were Table 
Mountain and Table Rock, Caasar's Head, 
and Glenn's Spring. Owing to the inter- 
ruption to travel, caused by the war, and 
the lack of accommodation, the number 
of visitors to these points has greatly 
diminished. South Carolina is divided into 
349 



South Cauolina.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[CllAlU.KSTON. 



30 Districts, and contained a white pop- 
ulation, in 1860, of 291,300. 

Railways. — The South Carolina Rail- 
way traverses the lower portion of the 
State, 137 miles from Charleston to Au- 
gusta, Georgia. This road was partially 
destroyed by General Sherman's forces, 
and has not yet been reopened to travel. 
The Columbia Branch extends 66 miles 
from Branchville, midway on the South 
Carolina Railway to Columbia, the capi- 
tal of the State. The Northeastern. Rail- 
way from Charleston, 102 miles to Flor- 
ence, where it connects with the Cheraw 
and Darlington Railway, 40 miles to 
Cheraw. The Charlotte and South Caro- 
lina Railway extends northward, through 
the mountain region, 105 miles, from Co- 
lumbia to Charlotte, N. C. The principal 
places passed are Winchester and. Chester. 
At Chester a railroad diverges for York- 
ville. The Wilmington and Manchester ex- 
tends 172 miles from Kingsville, Columbia 
Branch of South Carolina road. Stations : 
Kingsville to Wateree Junction, 9 miles 
(Camden Branch road diverges here) ; 
Manchester, 15; Sumterville, 25; Mays- 
ville, 34 ; Lynchburg, 43 ; Timmonsville, 
52 ; Florence, 64 (Northeastern road for 
Charleston, and the Cheraw and Darling- 
ton, for Cheraw, diverge here); Mar's 
Bluffs, 70; Pedee, 76; Marion, 85; 
Mullen's, 72; Nichol's, 99; Pine Bluff, 
108; Grist's, 118; WhitesviUe, 127; 
Flemington, 137; Maxwell's, 144; 
Brinkley's, 154 ; Wilmington, 171. The 
Camden Branch extends 37 miles 
from Kingsville — Stations : Kingsville 
to Clarkson's, 4 miles ; Manchester 
Junction, 9; Middleton, 11; Claremoht, 
18; Hopkins, 28; Camden, 37 miles. 
The Greenville and Columbia Railway ex- 
tends northwest, via Newberry C. H., 143 
miles from Columbia to Greenville, with 
branches and connecting lines to Spartan- 
burg, Laurensville, Abbeville, and Ander- 
son. The Spartanburg and Union Rail- 
way deflects at Alston, from the Greenville 
and Columbia Railway, 55 mUes north- 
west of Columbia. The Laurens road 
extends 32 miles from Newberry C. H. 
(Greenville and Columbia Railway) to 
Laurensville. The Abbeville Branch 
(Greenville and Columbia Road) deflects 
at Cokesbury, 1 9 miles to Abbeville. The 
350 



Anderson Branch (Greenville and ("(ilum- 
bia Road) deflects at Belton, 10 miles to 
Anderson. From this point, and from 
Spartanburg, other roads are in progress 
to connect with the railway routes of 
North CaroUna and Tennessee. The 
Charleston and Savannah Railway, which 
was the main highway of travel between 
these cities previous to the war, has not 
yet been repaired. Communication is 
made by steamer daily. 

Route from New York, Etc. j 

From New York daily, by railway, t«| fl 
Philadelphia., Baltimore, Washingtori ^ 
City, Fredericksburg, and Richmond, Va., 
Wcldon and Wilmington, N. C. ; thence 
by Wilmington and Manchester Railway 
to Kingsville, on the Columbia Branch of 
the South Carolina Road ; or more <li- 
rectly by the newer route — via North- 
eastern Railway, which deflects from the 
Wilmington and Manchester road ;it 
Florence. The pleasantest mode of trav- 
el, however, from NewYork to Charleston 
or Savannah, is at present by Arthur 
Leary's fine line of steamships, which 
make the Toyage in some 60 hours 
twice a week, leaving New York 
every Wednesday and Saturday. Office, 
73 William Street. The Peoples' Line 
also despatch a steamship (Pier No. Z% 
North River) every Thursday af 3 o'clock 
p. M. : Livingston, Fox & Co., 141 Broad- 
way, Agents. The cabin passage on both 
lines the same. From Neiv Orleans to 
Charleston. — Steamers daily to Mobile 
and to Montgomery, Alabama; thence 
by railway to Atlanta; thence, by 
Georgia Road, to Augusta; thence, by 
South Carolina Road, to Charleston. 
From Savannah to Charleston. — Steamers 
daily, 6 p. m. 

CHARLESTON, 

580 miles from Baltimore, 540 from 
Washington City, and 118 from Savan- 
nah. 

Hotels.— The hotels of Charleston are 
among the most conspicuous edifices of 
the city, and are generally well kept. 
The best known and best ordered are the 
Mills House and the Charleston Hotel, on 



11 



Charleston.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Chakleston. 



iMeeting Street. The Pavilion^ just 
'jOpencd, is also a good house. These are 
iparticularly good specimens of Charles- 
Iton architecture. Charges, $4.(i0 per 
day. 

I Charleston, the metropolis of South 
[Carolina, seven miles from the ocean, 
Hs picturesquely situated at the con- 
fluence of the Ashley and Cooper Eiv- 
brs, which combine to fox'm its harbor. 
This harbor is spacious, and sufficiently 
leep to admit vessels drawing 11 feet. 
[Fhe coup (Pceil is imposing and high- 
ly picturesque. Though the grounds 
tire low, hardly more than 12 feet above 
jiigh water, the effect is fine; and the 
feity, like Venice, seems, at a little dis- 
lance,- to be absolutely rising out of the 
jea. The bay is almost completely land- 
cked, making the harborage and road- 
tead as secure as they are ample. The 
Ijuncts contribute to form a tout ensem- 
le of much beauty. Directly at the en- 
rance of the city stands Castle Pinckney, 
fortress which covers an ancient shoal. 
A little south of Pinckney is Fort Rip- 
y, a small square work, built of Pal- 
etto logs, and filled with paving stones, 
ilt in 1862. On the sea-line rises 
iOrt Moultrie, famous, as Fort Sulli- 
n, in beating oif, and nearly destroy- 
the British fleet, under Sir Peter 
er, in I'Z'/B. On the eastern ex- 
emity of the same island (Sullivan's), 
which Fort Moultrie stands, may 
t be traced the outline of the fortress 
lich, under Colonel Thompson, with 700 
rolina rifles, defeated Sir Henry Clinton 
the very moment when Moultrie drove 
rker away from the South. Within 
e harbor the most conspicuous object, 
d the one also of commanding interest, 
the ruined walls of Sumter. This fort, 
ith that of Moultrie, once constituted 
chief defences of Charleston. The 
nts and operations of which these 
ssive ruins have formed the chief cen- 
and culminating point, are too fresh in 
public recollection to require more 
■an a brief retrospect in these pages. 
' <' fort, which is an octagonal work of 
til masonry, stands in the middle of 
tb harbor. The armament consisted, at 
te time of the attack, of 140 guns. It 
vs occupied by Major Anderson on the 
lilt of Dec. 26, 1860, and at noon of 



the 2'7th the Union flag was hoisted over 
it. On the 11th January following. Gov- 
ernor Pickens demanded a surrender of 
the fort, which being refused, prepara- 
tions were commenced to attack it. Fire 
was opened under direction of General G. 
T. Beauregard at 4.30 o'clock a. m., April 
11th, 1861, from the batteries on James 
Island. After a defence of thirty-two 
hours the garrison surrendered, and 
were transported to New York in the 
steamer Baltic. The present condition 
of the work sufficiently attests the 
warmth of the second attack, August, 
1863. On James Island are seen the ruins 
of old Fort Johnson. On the opposite 
headlands of the Haddrill you may trace 
the old lines which helped in the defence 
of the city eighty years ago, but which 
are now mostly covered by the smart vil- 
lage of Mount Pleasant. These points, 
north, east, and south, with the city lying 
west of them, bound the harbor, leaving 
an ample circuit of bay — coursing over 
which, from south to north, the eye pur- 
sues the long stretch of Cooper River, the 
Etiwando of the red men, along the 
banks of which, for many miles, the sight 
is refreshed by noble rice-fields, and in 
many places by the mansions and home- 
steads of the former planters. Steamers 
ply up this river, and return the same 
day, affording a good bird's-eye view of 
the settlements, along a very picturesque 
shore line on either hand. It was up 
this river that Mr. Webster distinguished 
himself by shooting an alligator, or rather 
shooting at him — the alligator diving at 
the shot, and leaving the matter suffi- 
ciently doubtful to enable an old lawyer 
and politician to make a plausible case of 
it. Standing on James Island, or on the 
battlements of Fort Sumter, the eye 
notes the broad stream of the Ashley, 
winding from west of the city, round its 
southernmost point, to mingle with the 
waters of the Cooper. The Ashley was 
anciently a region of great wealth and mag- 
nificence. It is still a river of imposing as- 
pect — broad, capacious, with grassy, well- 
wooded banks, beyond which you may 
still behold some antique and noble edi- 
fices. Within the harloor, if you can ap- 
propriate a couple of days, you may find 
them agreeably employed, especially in 
the summer months, by a trip to Fort 
351 



CUAKLESTON.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Charlestom. 



Sumter, to James Island, to Mount Pleas- 
ant, and Sullivan's Island. The two lat- 
ter places are favorite and healthy re- 
treats for the citizens of Charleston in 
midsummer.. The "Mount Pleasant 
Hotel," once an ample, cool, and well- 
kept house, with the usual adjuncts of 
bowling and billiard-saloons, has not yet 
quite recovered from the effects of its oc- 
cupancy as a military hospital. The for- 
ests in the immediate neighborhood afford 
find drives and picturesque rambles. 

The boat passes in twenty minutes 
from Mount Pleasant to Sullivan's Island. 
The Moultrie House, before the war 
one of the finest watering-places in 
the Southern country, is now, like 
Sumter, a mass of ruins. The beach 
in the vicinity affords fine bathing and a 
pleasant drive for nearly three miles, 
to the eastern end of the island, 
where the sea, angrily struggling 
with shoals to press into the estuaries 
behind Sullivan and Long Islands, keeps 
up a perpetual and not unpleasant roar. 
Other objects of interest, and points for 
recreation and healthful enjoyment, pre- 
sent themselves in the tour of the harbor, 
which no one visiting this now memorable 
city ought to omit seeing. Charleston 
was originally founded about IG'ZO. It 
was subsequently laid out on a plan fur- 
nished from England, which was then 
considered of a very magnificent scale ; but 
the streets were narrow, though regularly 
laid out, and no provision was made for 
public squares. In this respect the city 
is still very deficient. But the general 
style of building, which gives to each pri- 
vate dwelling a large court of its own, 
with trees and verandahs, renders the 
want of public squares less sensibly felt. 
Originally built of wood, and ravaged by 
frequent fires, Chai-leston has become in 
a large degree a city of brick. Its pub- 
lic buildings are some of them antique as 
well as noble edifices. St. Michael's 
Church, on the southeast corner of Broad 
and Meeting Streets, built in lYSZ-'SG, the 
State House (now employed for the courts 
of Justice), asid the Old Custom House, are 
all solid and imposing structures, raised 
during the colonial period. St. Michael's 
Tower is held in great admiration among 
the Charlestoniaus. It is from designs 
by a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. The 
352 



Custom House has a traditional character 
having been used by the British in the 
Revolution as the prison-house of the pa- 
triots^ It was in this building tliat 
Hayne, the martyr, was kept in bonds- 
and thence he was led out to execution. 
The New Custom House, of marble and 
granite, is an imposing edifice, not yet 
quite complete. The several churches of 
St. Philip (Episcopal), St. Pinsbar (Cath- 
olic), Citadel Square (Baptist), Central 
(Presbyterian), are all fine edifices. St. 
Finsbar was destroyed during the great 
fire. The ruins are among the most 
striking objects of the city. Among oth- 
er objects of interest is the Orphan Aug- 
htm, corner Calhoun and St. Philip StS., 
a magnificent structure of great capacity. 
It generally contains from 150 to 250 
orphans, the numbers of both sexes being 
nearly equal. It has a fine museum and 
library. A statue of William Pitt, some- 
what defaced by recent acts of violence, 
stands in front of this edifice. 

The City Hall, Court House, and Polke 
Court, facing each other at the intersec- 
tion of Broad and Meeting Streets, are 
among the most prominent of the strictly 
municipal buildings left in that part of 
the city. The Military Academy (citadel) 
is a State institution. One-half of its 
members are beneficiary. The plan of 
education is borrowed, in part, from thei 
system at West Point, and in part fromt i 
tile Polytechnique in Paris. Its graduates* 
are among the most distinguished and 
successful, perhaps, of all our colleges. 
To examine these two institutions, viW. 
afford the stranger pleasant employmem 
for a day. 

The Charleston College, founded ii 
1 788. The present structure, fronting oi 
George and Greene Streets, was erected ii 
1820. The wings were added in 185C 
The Public Schools, on St. Philip Street 
in the immediate neighborhood of th 
college building, are also imposing ed 
fices. The Jail and Workhouse, on M^ti 
zine Street, lately occupied as Unitei 
States barracks for colored troops, ai 
large, castellated structures ; as are ali; 
the depots of the South Carolina, ai 
Savannah and Charleston Railroads. TI' 
old Custom House, on Bay Street, foot <i' 
Broad, is interesting, as having be- 
built during the British occupation of t 



I 



Chaeleston.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Charleston. 



I city. The environs of the city afford a 

ivariety of very pleasant drives. The 

'Battery, which is the Charleston Prado, 

or Flasa, is a place of great resort, and 

Ion pleasant afternoons is thronged with 

jcarriages and pedestrians. This is the 

ashionable quarter of the city, and many 

f the private residences are models of 

lelegance and neatness. The mansion of 

r. Holmes is admired especially. The 

ouses are mostly constructed of brick or 

ood, neatly painted, and embowered 

uring the summer season amid a profu- 

ion of foliage and flowers. The gardens 

re adorned with every variety of flowers 

nd shrubbery. There is no more de- 

ghtful drive or promenade in the South 

jhan the Battery. But if you would see 

harleston's greatest attraction, drive to 

^fapiolia Cemetery, the beautiful " City of 

le Silent." This is indeed a lovely re- 

reat; a scene of tangled woods and 

ilvery waters, looking out upon the 

road surface of the Cooper River, whose 

•aters find their way into its pretty lake- 

ts, over which the majestic live-oaks 

ing their Druid mosses. This cemetery 

as laid out a. d. 1850. Among the 

lonumeuts contained in it most visited, 

i-e those to the memory of William 

/"ashington, "a Colonel of Cavalry in 

Army of the Revolution," which 

ands in the_ centre of the ground ; an 

aborately carved shaft, to Hugh Swin- 

m Legare, formerly United States At- 

irney-General, moved from Mount Au- 

irn Cemetery, near Boston; and an- 

her, near by, to Elbert R. Jones, are 

so much admired. On the further edge 

■ the ground, overlooking the harbor, 

ands the vault of the Vanderhorst 

raily, within which, enveloped in the 

aion flag, repose the remains of Com- 

odore Vanderhorst. BeiJiany Cemetery 

\j be reached from Magnolia, by a 

ort detour from the main road. Thence, 

time will permit, extend your drive 

ii'oss the Ashley River, here a mile in 

1th, and find yourself at once in the 

mtry, among cotton plantations and 

ely farmsteads. If you have time, 

[itinue your drive a few miles further, 

the " Old Parish Church of St. An- 

(pw," one of the most antique churches 

It by the early settlers, under the 

glican regime. The great avenue from 



Charleston into the country, was pro- 
nounced by Arclidale, one of the Lords 
Proprietors, such an avenue as no prince 
of Europe could boast. This was due to 
the noble oaks and magnolias, the myr- 
tles and the jessamines, which lined it on 
either hand, making it a covered way, 
embowered in shade, grateful in green, 
venerable with moss, and giving out a 
perpetual fragrance from a world of sum- 
mer flowers. This fine avenue has been 
dismantled of much of its beauty during 
the war. Few of the fine trees are left 
standing. 

Entering the city at the north end of 
King or Meeting Street, a good opportu- 
nity is afforded of visiting the Citadel, 
Orphan Asylum, and other institutions and 
buildings already mentioned. Charleston 
is especially rich in her public charities 
— the South Carolina, Fellowship, Hiber- 
nian, Hebrew, German, and other Socie- 
ties, all of which have large endowments 
and fine buildings. She has a Literary 
and Philosophical Society, and a Medical 
College in prosperous condition. The Col- 
lege Library contains some 10,000 vol- 
umes : the Charleston Library, some 
30,000 ; the Apprentices', 12,000. The 
College Museum is second to none in the 
United States. We have indicated Fort 
Moulti'ie as a spot distinguished by one 
of the greatest battles of the Revolution ; 
but the chronicles of Charleston show, 
besides, a long series of gallant struggles 
with powerful enemies. She has been 
threatened by the red men, who, in for- 
midable alliance, brought down their 
numerous tribes to her very gates. She 
has been assailed by fleets of the Spaniards 
and the French. Her colonial existence 
was one long struggle with the Spaniards 
and the savages. In the Revolutionary 
contest she took a first and most distin- 
guished part against the Crown; was 
thrice assailed by the British, and only 
succumbed finally to their arms, after a 
leaguer of two months, and when half 
the city was in ruins, and the people were 
suffering from famine. She has con- 
tributed some of the most able and patri- 
otic men to the Republic, in arts, arms, 
statesmanship, science, and literature. 
She is the birthplace of Christopher 
Gadsden, William Moultrie, Charles Cotes- 
worth and Thomas Pinckney, Henry Mid- 
353 



Columbia.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Camden. 



dleton, Arthur Middlcton, Thomas Lynch, 
John and Edward Rutledge, William 
Lowndes, Josl R. Poinsett, Stephen 
ElHott, Hugh S. Legare, Holbrook R. Y. 
Hayncs, and scores besides, who have left 
honorable memorials, national as well as 
sectional, of which she may be justly 
proud, and to which the Confederacy 
itself is happy to do honor. The descend- 
ants of these great men still survive, and 
serve to give character to society, and to 
add to the attractions of the city. Let 
the traveller, if he can, give a week to 
Charleston, and he will find its scenery, 
its society, its characteristics, quite suf- 
ficient to gratify his curiosity and 
thoughts during that period; but if he 
can appropriate two days only, we have 
shown "him how these maybe profitably 
spent. The city is regularly laid out, and 
extends about two miles in length, and 
nearly the same in breadth. The streets, 
which run parallel to each other from 
river to river, are generally broad, and 
lined with beautiful shade-trees. But, 
whci'ever the visitor may go, whichever 
"way he may turn, he notes the devastat- 
ing hand of war. The charred and black- 
ened ruins of many of the proud city's 
most noted buildings eonfront the trav- 
eller at every step. Scarce a tower or 
steeple in the city that is not riddled 
with shot or shell, and falling walls and 
toppling roofs everywhere warn the pe- 
destrian from attempting to gratify a 
natural appetite for exploration. Despite 
the terrible blow which the city has re- 
ceived, nothing can stay the generous 
impulses nor lessen the hospitality of its 
citizens ; and there are few places, not- 
withstanding its altered circumstances, 
■which the educated and unprejudiced 
traveller will feel greater regret at leav- 
ing, than the City of the Sea. 

In walking through South Bay Street, 
near the office of the Courier, the visitor 
will observe a fine palmetto-tree, the 
only one observed during a week's stay 
in Charleston. Near the Charleston Hotel 
are the offices of the " Daily News " and 
the " South Carolinian ; " the former 
conducted by Mr. George R. Cathcart, 
the latter by the w^ell-known novelist and 
historical writer, W. Gilmore Simms. 

Colnml>ia,, Hotel, Nicker soil's. 
Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, 
354 



is 130 miles from Charleston, by the South 
Carolina Railway and the Columbia 
Branch. It is connected by railway with 
the gTeat route from New York to New 
Orleans, with Augusta, Georgia, and with 
Camden, Cheraw, and most of the in- 
terior and mountain villages of the State. 
It is a beautiful city, situated on the 
blulFs of the Congaree, a few miles below 
the charming falls of that ilver, near the 
confluence of the Saluda and Broad Riv- 
ers, famous for its delightfully shaded 
streets, its wonderful flower gardens, and 
the model plantations in its vicinity. 
Nothing can be more inviting than the 
walks and drives in the neighborhood. The 
Capitol, 170 feet long and 60 wide, huiltof 
marble, is one of the handsomest buildings 
in the United States. It cost nearly three 
millions of dollars, and was fortunately 
spared during the burning of the city on 
its occupation by General Sherman's 
forces. The fire was set by the soldiers 
of General Wade Hampton's command. 
The South Carolina College, founded in 
1804, is a prosperous institution, withfroni 
150 to 200 students. It had a library of 
17,000 volumes previous to the war. The 
Insane Asylum is an object of great inter- 
est. Here also is the theological college 
of the Presbyterian Church, and a Roman 
Catholic establishment. The city was 
occupied by General Sherman's forces 
February IT, 1865. 

Cfaiaasleaft, 33 miles from Columbia, 
the capital, and 142 miles from Charles- 
ton. This city is situated on the Wa- 
teree River, navigable to this point by 
steamboats. Camden is a place of great 
historic interest. A battle was fought 
near by, August, 1780, betv^een the Amer- 
cans, under General Gates, and the Brit- 
ish, under Lord Cornwallis ; and another 
in April, 1781, between General Greene 
and Lord Rawdon. The scene of the lat- 
ter struggle is the southeastern slope 
of Hobkirk's Hill, now called KirkwooJ, 
a beautiful summer suburb of the old 
town. Upon the green, in front of the 
Presbyterian Church, on De Kalb Street, 
there is a monument over the grave of 
Baron De Kalb, who fell in the battle of 
August, 1 780, at Camden. The cornef 
stone was laid in 1825, by Lafayette. 
The headquarters of Cornwallis, to be seen 
here, was a fine old building now in ruins 




the country is dotted. The negroes Simms has a particular fondness for the 
can bear the summer heats of the I fragrant grape-vine, depending in such 

355 




1 



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2d.\\-H- TTifiitr,- 

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Coliiml>ia, Hotel, Mckerson's. 
Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, 
354 



i 



The headquarters of Cornwallis, to be . 
here, was a fine old building now in n 



c 



liNGKBURG.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Beaufort. 



I the Market House there is a ivell-exe- 
;ecl metallic eflSgy, 10 feet high, of King 
i glar, a most famous chieftain of the 
';aw):)as. Mr. Simms has made this In- 
n king the theme of one of his fine le- 
Ids. It contains an arsenal, academy, 
|ory, bank, and four churches. Popu- 
ijou 1,600. 

|>a"SMag'el>?iii'e; is on the line of the 

th Carolina (Columbia branch) Rail- 

97 miles from Charleston, 44 

'fi Columbia, and 11 from Branchville. 

ts a spot of historic interest, near the 

ks of the Edisto lliver. It formed a 

in the chain of military posts estab- 

;d by the British after the fall of 

ilestou. Among the old relics here, 

,r 3ome remains of the works erected by 

don, near the Edisto, and the old 

:t-House, which bears traces, in the 

le of bullet marks, of the assault 

e by Sumter, in 1*781. General Sher- 

's forces occupied the town, February 

.865, preparatory to their march on 

mbia. 

TtitaTV Spipisig-s, interesting as 

cene of the famous battle of Eutaw, 

out 40 miles below Orangeburg, and 

liles northwest of Charleston. Fort 

'■, a relic of the Revolution, stands 

,[. , high terrace ground, near the Bull's 

le 1 Neck, on the Congaree, just above 

leeting with the Wateree, six miles 

Kingsville, on the Columbia Branch 

3 North Carolina Railway. 

<|aera-*v, near the northern line of 

heitate, is pleasantly situated on the 

. Pedee River, at the head of steam 

ation, 162 miles from Charleston and 

lies from Columbia. 

1 3 Seaboard and Loviland towns, vil- 

and plantations of South Carolina 

3e reached by the steamboats which 

ptween Charleston and Savannah, or 

lige or carriage from the line of rail- 

The traveller will not see them in 

own peculiar beauty, because the 

e in summer time, when the won- 

M^l tropical vegetation covers the rank 

^1 ".a not to be braved by the unac- 

lll The planters themselves, in- 

ij jve with their families, at this 

:*-ither to the uplands or to the 

nidy pine-covered elevations with 

lie country is dotted. The negroes 

an bear the summer heats of the 



lowlands without ill results. In the 
winter, however, life may easily be made 
enjoyable in the villages here, imder the 
balmiest and most healthful of tempera- 
tures, and in the midst of genial and re- 
fined society. 

ISeaiilort, in a district of the same 
name, is pleasantly situated on Port 
Royal River, 16 miles from the sea, and 
about 50 miles west-southwest of Charles- 
ton. It aifords a delightful summer 
residence, and has daily communication 
by steamer with the cities of Charleston 
and Savannah. It contains an arsenal, 
a seminary, bank, and several churches. 

The journey on the South Carolina Rail- 
way will give the traveller some inkling 
of the lowland features of the Southern 
landscape, though not in its strongest or 
most interesting character — since much 
of the way is through extensive pine 
forests, which makes the rhyming sneer 
bestowed upon this pai't of the country 
not altogether inapt : 

" Where to the north, pine-trees in prospect 

rise ; 
Where to the east, pine-treea assail the slcics ; 
Where to the west, pine-trees obstruct the 

view ; 
Where to the south, pine-trees forever grew ! " 

But a second glimpse will reveal, 
amidst all these " pine-trees," the tovv^er- 
ing cypress, with its foliage of fringe and 
its garlands of moss — the waxen bay-leaf, 
the rank laurel, and the clustering ivy ; 
and, if you are watchful, you may catch, 
in the rapid transit of the cars through 
the swamps, glimpses of almost intermin- 
able cathedral aisles of cypress and vine, 
sv/eeping through the deeper parts of the 
boundless lagoons. But a railroad glimpse, 
and especially at the speed with which 
you travel here, is quite insufficient for 
reasonable observation. At Woodlands, 
a mile only south of Midway, the centre 
of the road, lived before the war the 
poet and novelist Simms. Yonder, in 
that wide and spreading lawn, stood our 
author's mansion — an old-fashioned brick 
structure, with massive and strange por- 
tico. The ranks of orange and I'jva-oak 
trees which sentinel his castle, are the ob- 
jects of his tenderest care — true and 
ardent lover of Nature as he is. Mr. 
Simms has a particular fondness for the 
fragrant grape-vine, depending in such 
355 



LOWLANES.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



1 



[LOV.'LAXI 



fantastic and numberless festoons from 
the limbs of you venerable tree. It is 
strong-limbed as a giant, and, but for 
the grace with which it clings to the old 
forest-king, would seem to be rather 
struggling with him for his sceptre, than 
loyally and lovingly suing for his protec- 
tion. The vine drops its festoons, one 
beneath the other, in such a manner that 
half a dozen persons may find a cozy seat, 
each over his fellow, for a merry swing. 
On a dreamy summer eve, you may va- 
cillate, in these rustic couches, to your 
heart's content ; one arm thrown round 
the vine will secure you in your seat, 
while the hand may- hold the favorite 
book, and the other pluck the delicious 
clusters of grapes, which, as you swing, 
encircle your head hke the wreath upon 
the brow of Bacchus. If the rays of the 
setting sun be hot, then the rich and im- 
penetrable canopy of foliage above you 
will not prove ungrateful. 

As affording a most marked and not 
altogether pleasing contrast to the pic- 
ture which farm aud domestic life at 
the South now presents to the stran- 
ger, we insert the following charac- 
teristic sketch, by a well-known trav- 
eller, of a visit to South Carolina, 
before secession times. " A stroll over 
Mr. Simms' plantation will give you 
a pleasant inkling of almost every feat- 
ure of the Southern lowlands, in nat- 
ural scenery, social life, and the char- 
acter and position of the slave popu- 
lation. You may sleep sweetly and 
soundly within his hospitable walls, se- 
cure of a happy day on the morrow, 
whether the rain holds you prisoner 
within doors, or the glad sunshine drags 
you abroad. He will give you a true 
Southern breakfast, at a very comforta- 
ble hour, and then furnish you abundant 
sources of amusement in his well-stocked 
library, or suffer you to seek it elsewhere, 
as your fancy listeth. At dinner, you 
shall not lack good cheer, for either the 
physical or the intellectual man, and then 
you may take a pleasant stroll to the 
quiet banks of the Edisto — watch the 
raft-men floating lazily down the stream, 
and interpret as you will the windings 
and echoes of their boat-horns — or you 
may muse in the shaded bowers of Tui'- 
tle Cove, or any of the many other inlets 



and bayous of the stream. Go flhi 
you may, you must not fail to peep ii 
the dark aud solemn swamps. You n; 
traverse their waters on T«ld bridges 
decayed and fallen trees ; you may dre; 
of knight and troubadour, as your < 
wanders through the Gothic passages 
cypress, interlacing their branches, t 
bearing the ever-dependent moss, wh i 
hangs mournfully, as if weeping ovej 
desolation and death which brood 
the fatal precincts. If you fear nd 
startle the wild-fowl, to disturb thel 
pent, or to encounter the alligatorJ 
may enter your skiff, and, sailing ihi^ 
the openings in the base of the cyp 
you may penetrate at pleasure, ad 
bush and brake, into the mystic el 
bers of these poisonous halls. Mr. Sii' 
has beautifully described these sol 
scenes in his 'Southern Passages 
Pictures : ' 

"Tis a wild spot, and hath a gloomy look ; 
The bird sings never merrily in the trees, 
And the young leaves seem blighted. A 

growth 
Spreads poisonously round, with power to 
With blistering dews, the thoughtless han( 

dares 
To penetrate the covert. Cypresses 
Crowd on the dank, wet earth ; and stretcl 

length. 
The cayman — a fit dweller in such homc- 
Slumhers, half buried in the sedgy grass, 
Beside the green ooze where he shelters h 
A whooping crane erects his skeleton fom 
And shrieks in flight. Two summer-i 

aroused 
To apprehension, as they hear his cry. 
Dash up from the lagoon, with marvellousi 
Following his guidance. Meetly taufi 

these, 
And startled by our rapid, near approach,) 
The steel-jawed monster, from his grass 
Crawls slowly to his slimy, green abode, 
Which straight receives him. Tou beho 

now, 
His ridgy back uprising as he speeds, 
In silence, to the centre of the stream. 
Whence his head peers alone.' 



" Rambling, once upon a time, tl 
the negro quarters of Mr. Simms' ] 
tion, we amused ourself in studyii 
varied characters of the slaves, as : 
in the style of their cabins, the 05 
which they kept them, the taste dis 
in their gardens, etc. ; for every mij 
all the material and time at his coi j 
to make himself and his family a 
fortable as he pleases. The hats c ' 



WLANDS.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Lowlands 



Ife as happy an air as one might desire ; 
rit palings enclosed them ; the gardens 
vre full of flowers, and blooming vines 
imbered over the doors and windows. 
Ciers, again, had been suffered by the 
li occupants to fall into sad decay ; no 
edence of taste or industry was to be 
s in in their hingeless doors, their fallen 
fijces, or their weed-grown gardens. 
Ipse lazy fellows were accustomed even 
t(But down the shade-trees which had 
b n kindly planted before their homes, 
riiier than walk a few yards further for 
o^er and even better fuel. The more 
iinstrious of the negroes here, as else- 
WH-e, employ their leisure hours, which 
^1 1 abundant, in the culture of vegetables 

in raising fowls, which they sell to 
;Hr masters, and thus supply themselves 

the means to purchase many little 
ries of life. For necessaries they 

no concern, since they are amply 

generously provided with all that 
''h ■ can require. Others, who will not 
"h| work for their pin-money, are de- 

J3nt upon the kindness of their mas- 
or more frequently upon their inge- 
at thieving. Many of them sell to 
master in the morning the produce 
A I have stolen from him the previous 
|t. At least, they all manage to 
their purses filled ; and we were 
ed that not one, had he occasion or 
3 to visit Charleston or Augusta, 
could readily produce the means to 
y his expenses. One old woman 
pointed out to us, who had several 
'% 3 left the plantation, with permission 
jl imain away as long as she pleased ; 
;r*11 although her absences were some- 
fa 5 of long continuance, she was too 
".q^not to return to a certain and good 
. Wander how and wither she 
d, in due time her heart would join 
lurden of the song : 

.Oh ! carry me bade to old Virgiany, 
iif,l ! To old Virginny's shore 1 ' 
all) 

■0 \''hile once visiting some friends in 
>s,ii,iina, we had the pleasure of witness- 
He^ he bridal festivities of one of the 
5le*VQts of the family, a girl of some 
EFj^hen years. The occasion was one 
liiii<l3se pleasant things wliich long hold 
mil.'l(| in the memory. For days previ- 



ous, the young ladies of the household 
gayly busied themselves in kind prepara- 
tions for the event ; in instructions to the 
bride, in the preparation of her white 
mushn robe, of her head-dress, and other 
portions of her toilet, in writing her notes 
of invitation to her sable friends — Mr. 
Sambo Smith or Miss Clara Brown, 
according to the baptismals of their re- 
spective masters, whose names the negroes 
of the South always assume. In our 
quality of artist, we had the pleasure to 
expend our water-colors in wreaths of 
roses, and pictures of cupids, hearts, and 
darts, and so on, upon the icings of the 
cakes which the young ladies had pre- 
pared for the bridal feast; and who 
knows but that our chef d^ceuvres were 
consumed by ebony lips on that memora- 
ble night ? The ceremony took place in 
the cabin of the bride, and in presence of 
the whites ; and then followed revelry, 
feasting, and dancing upon the lawn, 
much to the delight of the happy pair and 
their dark friends, and scarcely less to the 
pleasure of the bride's kind mistress and 
of all of us who witnessed their sports 
from the parlor windows. By the way, 
when you journey in the South, hne your 
pockets with tobacco, dispense it gener- 
ously to the darkeys, and they are your 
friends for life. Upon the seaboard, 
and its many lovely and luxuriant islands, 
you will find the beau ideal of Southern 
soil, climate, vegetation, architecture, and 
character. Here abound those lovely 
inlets and bays, which compensate for the 
absence of the lake scenery of the North. 
These bayous and lakelets are covered 
with the rankest tropical vegetation ; 
they abound in every species of wild-fowl 
— birds of the most gorgeous plumage, 
songsters of the sv/eetest notes — the 
mocking-bird and the nightmgale, the 
robin, and a host of other equally cele- 
brated warblers. Here, the foliage is so 
dense and rich, in form and color, that a 
poor imagination will readily people the 
spot with elves and sprites ; and there, 
again, so dark and solemn' are the cav- 
erns, overshadowed by the impenetrable 
roofs of leaves, that you may readily in- 
terpret the screech of the owl, the groan 
of the bull-frog, and the hiss of the ser- 
pent, into the unearthly wail of damned 
spirits. Tliese are fitting haunts for the 
357 



Lowlands.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[GEORGETO^STt 



sad and contemplative mind at the witch- 
ing hour of night. Here are the hirge 
rice plantations. The white population 
is thus necessarily thin yet opulent. The 
cabins of the negroes on these extensive 
domains, surrounding the mansion and its 
many outbuildings of the proprietor, give 
to every settlement the aspect of a large 
and thriving village. There is something 
peculiarly fascinating in this species of 
softened feudal hfe. The slaves are for 
the most part warmly attached to their 
masters, and they watch over their inter- 
ests as they would their own. Indeed, 
they consider themselves part and parcel 
of their master's family. They bear his 
name, they share his bounty ; and their 
fortune depends wholly upon Lis. Through 
life they have every comfort ; the family 
physician attends them when sick, and in 
their old age and imbecility they are well 
protected. They glory in their master's 
success and happiness ; their pride is in 
exact proportion to the rank of the family 
they serve ; and, whatever that may be, 
they still cherish a haughty and self-satis- 
fied contempt for 'poor white folks.' 
The planters themselves, descended from 
an old chevalier stock, and accustomed 
through many generations to the seclu- 
sion of country life, and that life under 
Southern skies, and surrounded with all 
the appliances of wealth and homage, 
have acquired an ease, a grace, a gener- 
osity, and largeness of character, incom- 
patible with the daily routine of the petty 
occui^ations, stratagems, and struggles 
of modern commercial and metropolitan 
life, be it in the South or the North. 
Where the swamps and bayous do not 
extend, the country, still flat, is mostly 
of a rich sandy soil, which deeply tinges 
the waters of all the rivers from the At- 
lantic to the Mississippi. This is charac- 
teristic of the southern poiiions of all the 
Gulf States. The rivers, as they extend 
toward the interior, are lined with high 
sandy bluffs, which, still further north- 
ward, give place, in their turn, to moun- 
tain ledges and granite walls. These 
streams, from the Mississippi to the Ala- 
bama, the Chattahoochee and the Savan- 
nah, to the smaller rivers of Carolina and 
Florida, are filled with sandy islands, 
ever changing their position and form. 
Frequently high freshets occur in them, 
358 



completely altering their channels, airl 
bearing away the produce of v/hole plan- 
tations, from the cotton bale to thefamih 
domicile, and the century-aged tree whii': 
shaded it. In crossing the smaller watn 
courses of the South, we have often oli 
served marks of the extent of a freslifi 
upon high trees, at an elevation of 50 i,i 
60 feet above our head. We happenci 
to be in Augusta years ago, during , 
great rise in the waters of the Savaunali 
In the course of some few hours, the rive 
had extended its limits throughout tin 
city, and over the plain for miles in ever- 
direction. It was a novel and beautifu 
sight to gaze from your balcony upon tlii 
unlooked-for Venice. Boats were saiJin i 
in every direction through the streets- 
even the ponderous crafts of the Savari 
nah, capable of holding fifty or sixty men 
We observed the pretty vessel of th 
' Augusta Boat Club ' dashing up Broa 
Street and under the hotel windows, wit 
the crew in full dress, music sounding 
and gay banners waving upon the air 
A ferry was established to pick up pa 
sengers at their doors or windows, an 
convey them to the base of the Sand-hill I 
a summer retreat, some three miles )• 
the northward. The cross streets leadir: 
from the river were washed away to tl. 
depth of many feet, and for days aftei 
ward passengers were transported acro( 
them in flats and bateaux. From thci 
freshets, with the innumerable stagna 
pools which they leave, together with tl 
miasma arising from immense quantiti 
of decaying vegetable matter, spru| 
many of the local fevers and diseases n 
the South. In Augusta, the yellow fev 
followed the great freshet, and carri 
off, during the brief space of a few weel 
nearly three hundred of the inhabitaii 
This terrible scourge had not previou: 
visited the city for eighteen years, a 
has not since returned. , 

<Se©i*g'eto-*vM, one of the old I 
settlements in South Carolina, is about 
miles from the sea, on Win3'aw Bay, n 
the junction of the Pedee, Black, t 
Waccamaw Rivers. The district^ 
Georgetown, next to that of Beaui'i 
produces more rice than any other sect 
of the State. Some Revolutionary m '! 
ories are awakened here. In 1 
vicinage was the scene of a skirmish 



ITSO I 
-mish I 



[Greenville.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Falls of Slicking. 



tween American and British troops, and 
!in 1781 it was taken from the enemy by 
General Marion, and the military works 
jiestroyed. 



MOUNTAIN- TILLAGES AND 
SCENEET. 

The northern districts of South Carolina 

orm, with the neigliboring hill-region of 

eorgia, and the western portion of Nortli 

jJaroiina, one of the most interesting chap- 

fers in the great volume of American 

[jindscape. In mountain surprises, pic- 

resque valley nooks, and romantic 

[Waterfalls, this region is nowhere sur- 

assed in all the Union. Beautiful and 

ealthful villages, with high social attrac- 

ons, afford most agreeable homes and 

|eadquarters to admirers of the pictu- 

sque. These villages are rapidly becom- 

g favorite summer resorts of the people 

the lowlands of the State ; and their 

[egant mansions and villas are every 

ar more and more embelUshing their 

cinity. 

CJ-reeiiville, 2*71 miles from Charles- 
n, 128 from Columbia. Hotels, Man- 
n Hoicse, Goodlett House. Greenville, 
the northwest corner of the State, lies at 
e threshold of the chief beauties of this 
gion, and gives ready access to all the 
t. The village is beautifully situated on 
;edy River, near its source, and at the 
t of the Saluda Mountain. It is one of 
most popular summer resorts in the 
-country of Carolina, being in the imme- 
te vicinity of the Table Mountain, the 
lite Water, and the Slicking Falls, the 
asse, and Saluda Valleys, the Keowee 
lirer, Paris Mountain, Ctesar's Head, and 
i|merous other bold peaks of the Blue 
"Ige. The Table Mountain^ 20 miles 
ve the village of Greenville, is one of 
most remarkable of the natural wen- 
ell's of the State, rising as it does 4,300 
above the sea, with a long extent on 
side of perpendicular chffs, 1,000 feet 
iilieight. The view of these grand and 
lay rocky ledges is exceedingly fine from 
tl quiet glcus of the valley of the cove 
b )w, and not less imposing is the splen- 
d amphitheatre of hill-tops seen from its 
own. Among the sights to be seen 
fm Table Mountain is Ccesar^s Head. 
lip the highest point in the vicinity, and 



well deserving a visit. Across this valley 
is the Fall of Slickincf, its long line of 
sparkling spray heightening the beauty 
of the scene. The Stool Mouufain, which 
is prominent from the valley below, hei'e 
dwindles to its proper height. The top of 
the rock, which is comparatively level, is 
of great extent. In many places the sur- 
face is stony, in others alluvial and cov- 
ered with noble trees. Near the centre, 
the remains of a hut exist ; a building 
erected as a kitchen to a hotel, which it 
was once contemplated to erect on the 
rock. Though the enterprise was given 
up, it is not at all impracticable. The 
50 or 60 acres of tillable land might fur- 
nish provisions, while for water there is 
a spring, of the most grateful purity and 
coolness, near the middle of the isolated 
and elevated demesne. 

The Falls of Slicking are in the moun- 
tain glens, on the opposite side of the 
valley, at the base of the Table Rock. 
Leaving the cabin at the base of the 
Saluda Mountain, the tourist, in his ascent, 
soon finds himself following the windings 
of the river. After the passage of about 
one-quarter of a mile, he reaches the 
" Trunk," so called from its being the 
point of junction of two different branches 
of the river or creek ; the distance be- 
tween these streams, as you continue to 
ascend, gradually increases, and when 
near the summit, they are widely separat- 
ed ; they bear one name, ai^d abound, 
each, in cascades. The right-hand branch 
is the more picturesque, and is the one 
by which the visitor is usually conducted. 

From the " Trunk," the gem of all this 
locality, and the Table Rock, is a charm- 
ing view of the neighboring mountains of 
Ca3sar's Head, Bald Mountain, the Pin- 
nacle Rock, and other spurs. At the 
"Trunk," the two streams fall perpen- 
dicularly some seventy feet, mingling in 
one in the basin below. This basin is 
easily accessible, and nowhere is there a 
more secluded or more wildly picturesque 
spot. Save when in his meridian, the 
sun's rays seldom violate its solitude. On 
one side are the two cascades leaping la 
snowy masses from rock to rock, and on 
others are mighty bulwarks of venerable 
stone, here and there studded with the 
adventurous shrub, or overhung with ri(;h 
foliage. 

359 



Keowee.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Spautaxbuuo 



Pendleton is an agreeable little village, 
on Eighteen Mile Creek, Anderson Dis- 
trict, in the mountain region. It is easily 
reaclied from Greenville, at Anderson 
Court House. 

Fort mil, once the residence of the 
statesman John C. Calhoun, is a few 
miles only from the village of Pendleton. 
It is a plain but comfortable building of 
wood, with piazzas and other fittings and 
arrangements, after the usual fashion of 
Southern country houses. WaUiaUa, a 
flourishing German settlement, is in this 
region. 

Pickens Court House is a few hours' 
ride north of Pendleton and west of 
Greenville. It is within excursion dis- 
tance of the Keowee Eiver, the Valley of 
Jocasse, the Cataract of the White Water, 
and other interesting scenes. 

The Keowee is a beautiful mountain 
stream, in Pickens District, which, with 
the Tugaloo River, forms the Savannah. 
The i-oad to the Valley of Jocasse lies 
along its banks. 

" I have been where the tides roll by, 
Of mighty rivers deep and wide, 
On every wave and argosy — 

And cities buildod on each side; 
Whore the low din of commerce fills 
The ear with strife that never stills. 

" Tet not to nic have scenes like these, 

Such charms as thine, oh peerless stream I 
Not cities proud my eye can please — 

Not argosies so rich I deem — ■ 
As thy cloud-vested hills that rise — 
And forests looming to the skies 1" 

The Keowee region is full of romantic 
memories of the Cherokee wars. 

The Jocasse Valley, near the northern 
line of the State, is one of the most 
charmingly secluded little nooks in the 
State, environed as it is on every side, 
except that through which the Keowee 
steals out, by grand mountain ridges. 
The chief charm of Jocasse is, that it is 
small enough to be felt and enjoyed all at 
once, as its entire area is not too much for 
one comfortable picture. It is such a 
valley as painters delight in. 

The White Water Catarads are an 
houi''s brisk walk north of Jocasse. Their 
chief beauty is in their picturesque lines, 
and in the variety and boldness of the 
mountain landscape all around : though 
they would still maintain their claims to 
360 



universal admiration, for their exteii! 
alone, even were the accessory scenes fai 
less beautiful than they are. The num 
ber of visitors here is increasing year b\ 
year, and the time is approaching when 
this and the thousand other marvels of 
Nature in the Southern States, will win 
tourists from the North, as the Whiti 
Mountains and the Catskills, and Trenton 
and Lake George, now attract pilgrims 
from the South. 

Adjoining this most attractive region 
of South Carolina, and easily accessible 
therefrom, are the many beautiful scenes 
of the western portion of North Carolina, 
of which we have already spoken, ami 
of Tallulah, and Toccoa, and Yonah, and 
Nacoochee, and numerous other lovely 
spots in the hill-region of Georgia, which 
yet remaiu und escribed. 

Sparta laljMi-g', 223 miles from 
Charleston, 93 miles from Columbia, by the 
Greenville and Columbia, and Spartanbur>; 
and Union Railways, is in the midst of a 
mineral region, famous for its gold and 
iron. Here, too, are some celebrated 
limestone springs. The place is the seat 
of a University, endowed by Benjamin 
Wofford, and controlled by the Method- 
ists ; also of a prosperous Female College. 
An Asylum for the Deaf, Dumh, and 
Blind is located here. Within the limitsi 
of this district is the memorable Revolui 
tionary battle-field of the Cowpens, locat- 
ed on the hill-range called the Thicket\ 
Mountain. The battle was fought Januiv 
ry 1*7, 1781, and resulted in the defeat 
of the British under Tarleton. In the oldei 
time, the cattle were suffered to graz( 
upon the scene of the contest — whence it: 
name. 

"S^oi-Icvillc is situated midwa_\ 
on the upper boundary of South Car 
olina, upon an elevated plain whicl 
forms the dividing ridge between th( 
Catawba and the Broad Rivers. In th( 
vicinity there are some valuable sulphui 
and magnesia waters, to add to the at 
tractions of winning scenery and roman 
tic story which the region so abundantly i 
offers to the tourist. It is right in thi 
heart of the mountain scenery of thi 
State. From Charleston the route is b; 
the South Carolina Railway, and Coluin 
bia branch to Columbia, thence by th 
Chailotte road to Chester, and thence, 2 



rOKKVII-LE.] 



SOUTH CAROLINA. 



[Vicinity, 



miles, by King's Mountain Railway. 
The route from the North is by Weldon. 
! Twelve miles northeast of Torkville, and 
little more than a mile south of the North 
Carolina line, is the battle-field of King^s 
'(Jlountain. The King's Mountain range 
jiextends about sixteen miles southward, 
[sending out lateral sjDurs in various di- 
jireetions. The scene of the battle is six 
jmiles from the summit of the hill. A 
jsimple monument to the memory of Fer- 

uson and others marks the spot, and on 
[jthe right there is a large tulip-tree, upon 

rhich it is said ten tories were hanged. 



16 



It was a hotly-contested fight, the British 
loss being 1,105 killed, wounded, and 
prisoners. It was fought October 7, 
1Y80. Crowder\s JTnob, the highest peak 
of King's Mountain, is about 3,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. The ilountain 
Gap, near the Cherokee Ford, the G7'eat 
Falls of the Catawha, and Rocky Mount, 
the scene of another of the partisan 
struggles, and Hanging Rock, where 
Sumter fought a desperate fight, are also 
interesting scenes and localities of this 
hill-region of South Carolina. 

361 



(jEOItaiA. i 



GEORGIA. 




a E O E G I A . 



This great State, long regarded as the 
" Empire State " of the South, possesses 
unrivalled sources of prosperity and 
wealth ; and though they are as yet only 
in the dawn of development, the traveller 
will not hesitate to predict for her a glo- 
rious future, when he notes the spirit of 
activity, enterprise, and progress which 
so markedly distinguishes her from other 
portions of the South. While Nature is 
here everywhere most prodigal in means, 
man is earnest in improving them. 
Georgia was settled the latest of the 
" Original Thirteen " States of the Union. 
She derived her name with her charter 
from George 11., June 1*732. Her 
first colony was planted by General Ogle- 
tliorpe, on the spot where the city of 
Savannah now stands, in I'/'ZS, sixty- 
three years after the settlement of South 
Carolina, and a centui\y behind most of 
the original colonies. Three years after 
the arrival of Oglethorpe, Ebeuezer, 25 
miles up the Savannah River, was planted 
by the Germans. Darien, on the sea, was 
commenced about the same time by a 
party of Scotch Highlanders. Among 
the early troubles of the colony was a 
war with the Spaniards in Florida, each 
party in turn invading the territory of 
the other. The people of Georgia took a 
vigorous part in the Revolutioii, and the 
State was in possession of the British a 
portion of that time. The city of Savan- 
nah was taken by them, December 29, 
1778. A bold attempt was made by the 
combined American and French forces to 
recapture it, but failed, with the loss to 
the allies of 1,100 men. The great 
Cherokee Country, in the upper part of 
the State, came into the full possession of 
the whites in 1838, when the Indians 
were removed to new homes beyond the 
Mississippi. The sea-coast of Georgia, 
362 



extending about eighty miles, is very 
similar in character to that of the Caroli- 
nas, being lined with fertile islands cut 
off from the main land by narrow lagoons 
or sounds. The famous sea-island cotton 
is grown here ; and wild-fowl are abun- 
dant in all varieties. Upon the main, 
rice plantations flourish, with all the 
semi-tropical vegetation and fruit which 
we have seen in the ocean district? of 
South Carolina. Passing northward to 
the central regions of the State, the cot- 
ton-fields greet our eyes at every step, 
until the surface of the country becomes 
more and more broken and hilly, and, at 
last, verges upon the great hill-region 
traversed by the Appalachian or Alle- 
ghany Mountains. These great ranges oc- 
cupy all the northern counties, and pre 
sent to the charmed eye of the tourist 
scenes of beauty and sublimity not sur- 
passed in any section of the Union. 

Rivers. — There are many fine rivers in 
Georgia ; but, as with the water-courses 
of the South generally, they are often 
muddy, and their only beauty is in the 
rank vegetation of their shores, with here 
and there a bold sandy bluff. As tire 
railroad system of the State has not yet- 
been restored, and many travellers wiD' 
have occasionally to avail themselves of 'i 
steamboats as means of reaching points of 
sojourn in the interior, we propose to give 
a brief description of the principal of 
these rivers. The Savannah^ which di- 
vides the States of Georgia and South 
Carolina through half their length, has a 
course, exclusive of its branches, of about 
450 miles. The cities of Augusta and Sa- 
vannah are upon its banks, and it enters 
the Atlantic 18 miles below the latter place. 
From June to November it is navigablf 
for large vessels as far as Savannah, am 



Georgia.] 



GEORGIA. 



[GEOEGflA. 



for steamboats up to Augusta, a distance 
of 230 miles from its mouth. The river 
voyage between these points is a very 
pleasant one, presenting' to the eye of 
stranger many picturesque novelties 
in the cotton-fields which lie along the 
banks through the upper part of the pas- 
sage, and in the rich rice plantations be- 
low. Approaching Savannah, the tourist 
will be particularly delighted '^vith the 
mystic glens of the wild swamp reaches, 
I and with the luxuriant groves of live-oak 
which shadow the ancient-looking manors 
of the planters. A few miles above the 
city of Savannah, he may visit the spot 
where Whitney iavented and first used 
his wonderful cotton-gin. The alligator, 
in times before the war, was often seen sun- 
ning himself on the shores of the lower 
waters of the Savannah, being abundant 
in the contiguous swamps. " When our 
canoe," says Sir Charles LyeU, in his 
record of travels in this region, " had 
proceeded into brackish water, where the 
iver banks consisted of marsh land, cov- 
ered with a taU, reed-like grass, we came 
lose to an alligator, about nine feet long, 
asking in the sun. Had the day been 
armer, he would not have allowed us to 
pproach so near to him, for these rep- 
lies are much shyer than formerly, since 
hey have learned to dread the avenging 
■ifle of the planter, whose stray hogs and 
jporting dogs they often devour. About 
;en years ago, Mr. Cooper tells us he saw 
;wo hundred of them together in St. 
tfary's River, extremely fearless." Won- 
lerful stories are told of these creatures, 
uauy of them much too wondei-ful for 
Tedence. They are now becoming rare, 
is one acquainted with their habits ob- 
erved to me, being probably disturbed 
)y the violent explosions of gunpowder at 
he time of the attack on Spanish Fort, 
^'hey have been but seldom seen of late. 
^ort PuJaslci (see Savannah and vicinity). 
'he Oconee River rises in the gold lands 
f the mountain districts of Georgia, and 
raverses the State until it meets the 
>geeehee, and with that river reaches the 
ea under the name of the Altamaha. 
lilledgeville, the capital, and Athens, one 
f the most beautiful places in the State, 
re on this river. The Ocmul(/ce is 
avigable for small steamboats to Macon. 
he Flkd River, in the western part of 



the State, passes by Lanier, Oglethorpe, 
and Albany, and uniting with the Chatta- 
hoochee, at the southwest extremity of 
the State, forms the Appalachicola. The 
length of the Flint River is about 300 
miles. Its navigable waters extend 250 
miles, from the Gulf of Mexico to Albany. 
The Ohattahoochee is one of the largest 
and most interesting rivers of Georgia. 
It pursues a devious way through the 
gold region westward from the mountains 
in the northeastern part of the State, and 
makes the lower half of the dividing line 
between Georgia and Alabama. At the 
point where it enters Florida it is joined 
by the Flint River, and the united waters 
are thenceforward called the Appalachi- 
cola. The Chattahoochee is navigable for 
large steamboats as far up as Columbus, 
350 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The 
principal towns on this river besides Co- 
lumbus, are Eufaula, West Point, and 
Fort Gaines. The Ogeechee rises in 
Green County, flows southeastward, and 
enters the Atlantic through Ossabaw 
Sound, 20 miles south of Savannah. Its 
whole length is estimated at 250 miles. 
It is navigable for sloops a distance of 
between 30 and 40 miles. Fort McAllis- 
ter, on Genesis Point, which commands 
the entrance to this river, is interesting 
from the part it played in the defense of 
the city by General Hardee. It success- 
fully resisted the attacks of the monitor 
fleet in January and March 1863, but was 
finally captured by General Hazen's 
division of the 15th Corps (Sherman's 
army), on the 13th December, 1864. 

Railways. — The railway system of 
Georgia, embracing upwards of 1,400 
miles of railroad, is now so far advanced 
toward complete restoration, that we 
venture to give aU the lines, with their 
branches. The Central Eailwcii/, from Sa- 
vannah, 190 miles to Macon. ^Stations — 
Savannah to Eden, 20 miles ; Guyton, 30 
Egypt, 40 ; Armenia, 46 ; Halcvondale. 
50; Ogeechee, 62; Scarboro', 70 ; Millen 
'79 (branch road 53 miles to Augusta) 
Cushingville, 83; Herndon, 90; Speir's 
111; Davisboro, 123; Tennille, 134 
Oconee, 146; Emmett, 153; Kingston 
160; Gordon, 170 (branch to Milledge 
ville and Eatonton); Griswold, 182; Ma 
con, 190 miles. Milledgeville and Eaton 



Railways.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Savannah. 



ion Branch. Stations — Gordon to Wol- 
scy, 9 miles; Milledgeville, 18; Dennis, 
29 ; Eatonton, 38 miles. Macon and 
Western Railway., from Macon, 103 miles 
to Atlanta, terminus of Georgia Railway. 
Stations — Macon Junction, Howard's, 8 
miles; Crawford's, 13 miles; Smarr's, 19; 
Forsyth, 24 ; Collier's, 30 ; Goggin's, 
Barnesville, 40 ; Milner's, 4*7 ; Thornton's, 
Griffin, 58 ; Eayette, 65 ; Lovejoy's, 
Jonesboro', 79 ; Rough and Ready, 90 ; 
East Point, 95 ; Atlanta, 103 miles. The 
Georgia Raihvay, from Augusta, 171 
miles to Atlanta, passing through Belair, 
Berzelia, Bearing, Thomson, Camak, Bar- 
nett, Crawfordsville, Union Point, Greens- 
boro', Oconee, Buckhead, Madison, Rut- 
ledge, Social Circle, Covington, Conyer's, 
Lithonia, Stone Mountain, and Decatur. 
A branch line, 10 miles long, extends 
from Camak to Warrenton, the capital of 
Warren County; another of 18 miles 
from Barnett to Washington, the capital 
of V>''ilkes County ; another from Union 
Point to Athens, the capital of Clarke 
County. The road (the Georgia) connects 
at Augusta with the South Carolina road 
for Charleston and Savannah. The West- 
ern and Atlantic Road, from Atlanta, 136 
miles, northward to Chattanooga, Tennes- 
see. Stations — Atlanta to Vining's, 8 
miles ; Marietta, 20 ; Acworth, 35 ; AUa- 
toona, 40; Cartersville, 4*7; Cass, 52; 
Kingston, 59 ; Adairsville, 69 ; Calhoun, 
'78 ; Resaca, 84; Tilton, 91 ; Dalton, 100 ; 
Tunnel Hill, 107 ; Ringgold, 115; Chick- 
amauga, 128 ; Boyce, 133 ; Chattanooga, 
136 miles. The Rome Railway deflects 
from the Western and Atlantic at Kings- 
ton, and extends 20 miles to Rome. The 
Atlanta and West Point Railway extends 
from Atlanta, 87 miles to West Point, 
whence it is continued by the Montgomery 
and West Point Railway, 88 miles to Mont- 
gomery, Alabama. Stations — Atlanta to 
East Point, 6 miles ; Fairburn, 18 ; Pal- 
metto, 25 ; Newnan, 40 ; Grantville, 52 ; 
Hogansville, 59 ; Lagrange, 72 ; Long 
Cane, 78 ; West Point, 87 miles. The 
Southwestern and Muscogee Railway, from 
Macon, terminus of Central road, 99 miles, 
to Columbus. Stations — Macon to Eche- 
connee, 12 miles ; Powersville, 21 ; Fort 
Valley, 28 ; Everett's, 85 ; Reynolds', 41 ; 
Butler, 60 ; Columbus, 99 miles. The 
Southwestern, from Macon to Fort Val- 
364 



ley, 28 miles ; to Marshallville, 7 ; Win- 
chester, 9 ; Oglethorpe, 21 ; Anderson, 
30 ; Americus, 41 ; Sumter, 51 ; Albany, 
76 miles (branch to Eufaula). The Sa- 
vannah, Albany, and Gulf Road vi'iW con- 
nect Savannah and Tallahassee, Florida. 
It extends at present from Savannah, 189 
miles, to Boston, from which point a line 
of stages runs to Tallahassee and other 
places in Florida. 



SAVANNAH. 

From New York by steamer ; 100 miles 
from Charleston. 

Hotels. — The principal hotels of Sar ' 
vannah are — the Pulaski House, on Bryan 
Street, Johnson Square ; the MarshaU 
House, in Broughton Street, and the 
Scriven House. The last two have been 
lately refurnished. 

Savannah, the largest city of Georgia, 
with a population of about 30,000, is 
upon the south bank of the Savannah 
River, 18 miles from the sea. Its site is a 
sandy terrace, some 40 feet above low- 
water mark. It is regularly built, with 
streets so wide and so unpaved, so 
densely shaded with trees, and so full of 
little parks, that, but for the extent and 
elegance of its public edifices, it might 
seem to be an overgrown village, or a score 
of villages consolidated in one. There arc 
no less than twenty-four squares scat- 
tered through the city, and most of the 
streets are lined with the fragrant flower- 
ing China-tree, or the Pride of India, and 
the magnolia, while some of them, as 
Broad and Bay Streets, have each four 
grand rows of trees, there being a double 
carriage-way, with broad walks on the 
outsides, and a promenade between. 
These numerous shady avenues have 
gained for it the title of the " Forest 
City" of the South. Savannah was 
founded by General James Oglethorpe, in 
1732. It was occupied, in 1778, by the 
British, and came back into the posses- 
sion of the Americans in 1783. But few 
Revolutionary remains are now to be seen, 
the city having overgrowi\ most of them. 
Batteries, ramparts, and redoubts have 
given place to the more pleasant sights 
of fragrant gardens and shady parks. 



Satannah.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Savannah. 



It has suffered severely from the ravages of 
!8re,firstin 1'796, again in 1820, and last in 
January 28, 1865. The aggregate amount 
pf property destroyed at these times ex- 
eeded $6,000,000. /as/jer's Spring, the 
scene of a brave and famous exploit of 
;he old war time, may yet be visited, 
't lies near • the Augusta road, two 
niles and a half from the westward 
)f Savannah. The spring is a foun- 
ain of purest water, in the midst of a 
narshy spot, covered with rank shrub- 
bery, at the edge of a forest of oak 
ilnd pine trees. The interest of the place 
^ in its association only. Sergeant New- 
on Jasper, aided only by one companion, 
atched by this spring for the passage of 
party of American prisoners under a 
ritish guard of eight men, whom they 
oldly and successfully assailed, restoring 
le captives to their country and friends, 
memory of this action. Sergeant Jas- 
er's name has been given to one of the 
ublic parks of the city. Among the 
ost attractive places of public resort is 
hrsyth Park, at the head of Bull Street. 
fountain, the design of which is taken 
om the Crystal Palace fountain at Sy- 
3uham, England, adorns the centre of 
lis pretty ground. It is of elaborate 
orkmanship, and cost -$6,500. In John- 
)n or Monument Square, opposite the 
ulaski House, there is a fine Doric obe- 
3k erected to the memories of Generals 
reene and Pulaski, the corner-stone of 
hich was laid by Lafayette during his 
sit in 1825. It is a marble shaft, 53 
et in height. The base of the pedestal 
10 feet 4 inches by 6 feet 8 inches, and 
elevation is about 12 feet. The 
;edle which surmounts the pedestal is 37 
et high. Another and very elegant 
ructure has since been built (1853) in 
lippewa Square to the memory of Pu- 
3ki. This general fell gallantly during 
I attack upon the city, while it was oc- 
pied by the British in the year lY'/O. 
le monument appropriately covers the 
ot where Pulaski fell. It is one of the 
)st chaste and perfect specimens of 
mumental architecture in the United 
ites. The shaft is of the purest marble 
d the steps are pUnths of granite. It is 
i feet high, and surmounted by an ex- 
(isitely carved statue of Liberty holding 
Ip national banner. The arms of Georgia 



and Poland are intertwined on the cor- 
nice of two sides of the monument. It 
was constructed by Launitz, of New York, 
at a cost of $22,000 in gold. 

Among the public buildings of note in 
Savannah are the new Custom House, 
corner of Bull and Bay Streets ; the City 
Exchange, in front of which General 
Sherman reviewed his army, January 1, 
1865; the Court House, Tlieatre, Armory, 
Arsenal, and Jail. St. Andrew's Hall 
and the ChatJiam Academy are conspicu- 
ous buildings. From the tower of .the 
Exchange the best view of the city and 
neighborhood is to be had. 

Among the church edifices the Episco- 
pal Churches of St. JoliiUs and Chrisfs are 
the most striking. The lofty spire of the 
Independent Presbyterian Church is much 
and deservedly admired. This building 
is built of Quincy granite, and cost $80,- 
000. Trinity Church stands on St. 
James' Square, near the spot where John 
Wesley delivered his famous sermons. The 
State Historical Society has a fine library. 
The principal charitable institutions are — 
the Orphan Asylum, the Union Society^ 
originally established by Whitefield, the 
Hibernian and Seaman's Friend Socie- 
ties, the Georgia Infirmary, the Savannah 
Hospital, and the Savannah Free School. 

The building on the northeast corner 
of Bull and Broughton Streets, known as 
the Masonic Hall, is interesting to the 
visitor as the place where the Ordinance 
of Secession was passed, January 21, 
1861. Four years after (December 28, 
1864), a meeting of citizens was held in 
the same apartment to commemorate the 
triumph of the Union arms. The main 
apartment is now (1866) used as a bil- 
liard-room. Among the interesting rel- 
ics of the past history of Savannah 
are — the building in which the colonial 
Legislature held it^ sessions, on South 
Broad Street, just east of Drayton ; and 
the mansion of the Governor of Georgia 
during the occupation of the city by the 
British, which stands on Broughton 
Street. Savannah is one of the healthiest 
of the Southern cities, and its climate is 
constantly improving, owing, it is said, to 
the improved manner of cultivating the 
great rice lands in the neighborhood. No 
pleasanter winter home for invahds or 
others can be found ; for, to the balmy 
365 



Vicinity.] 



GEORGIA. 




climate of the region, and every appli- 
ance of physical comfort, there are super- 
added extraordinary social attractions in 
the cultivated manners and the hospita- 
ble hearts of the people. It is well sup- 
plied with good water brought from the 
Savannah Elver, west of the Ogeechee. It 
was occupied by the Federal forces, under 
General Sherman, on the morning of De- 
cember 21, 1864. The fortifications, 
which constituted the so-called defences 
of the city, are six miles in extent, and are 
easily reached from the centre of the city. 
Five daily newspapers are published here. 

VICINITY. 

The vicinage of Savannah, though flat, 
is exceedingly picturesque along the many 
pleasant drives, and by the banks of the 
river and its tributary brooks. Every- 
where are noble avenues lined with 
live-oaks, the bay, the magnolia, tire 
orange, and a hundred other beautiful 
evergreen trees, shrubs, -and vines. 

The Cemetery of £onaventure, three 
miles distant, on the Warsaw Eiver, is a 
wonderful place. It was originally a pri- 
vate estate, laid out in broad avenues, 
which cross each other. These avenues 
are now grand forest aisles, lined with live- 
oaks of immense size ; their dense leafage 
mingling overhead, and the huge lateral 
branches trailing upon the ground with 
their own and the superadded weight of 
the heavy festoons of the pendent Span- 
ish moss. A more beautiful or more sol- 
emn home for the dead, than in the shades 
of these green forest aisles, cannot 
well be imagined. The endless cypx-ess 
groves of the " silent cities " by the Bos- 
phorus are not more impressive than the 
intricate web of these stUl forest walks. 
Bonaventure has thus been sketched by 
Btar-light : ■• 

" Along a comdor I tread, 

High overarched by ancient trees, 
Where, like a tapestry o'erhead, 

The gray moss floats upon the "breeze : 
A wavy breeze which kissed to-day 

Tallulah's falls of flashing foam, 
And sported in Toccoa's spray — 

Brings music Irom its mountain home. 

"The clouds are floating o'er the sky, 

And cast at times a litful gloom, 
As o'er our hearts dark memories fly, 
Cast deeper shades on Tatnall's tomb ; 

366 • 



While glimmering onward to the sea, 
With searco a rippling wave at play, 

A line of silver thi-ough the lea, 
The river stretches i'ar away." 

" Tatnall's tomb," a family vault of the 
former possessors of these grounds, stands 
near the centre of the cemetery. 

Fort Pulaski^ on Cockspur Island, near 
Tybee Island, situate on the south side of 
the entrance to Savannah River, was the 
scene of a severe bombardment during the 
late naval operations on the coast. It 
was attacked from batteries erected on 
Tybee Island, and surrendered April 1 1, 
1862. Fort McAllister, near King's 
Bridge, on the west bank of the Ogeechee, 
is well worthy a visit. It is reached bj 
the Gulf Railway. 

Thunderholl, four miles east of the city. 
According to local tradition, this place 
received its name from the fall of a thun- 
derbolt. A spring of water which issued 
from the spot upon that event, has con- 
tinued to flow ever since. 

Giiristersigo Batde-field, eight miles dis- 
tant, was the scene of an engagement, in 
1*782, between General Wayne and a 
body of Indians under their chief Guris- 
tei'sigo. 

Routes from Savannah. — Georgia is 
famous, the Union over, for her railroad 
enterprise. In this respect, as in most 
others, she leads all the Southern States^ 
Her lines of railway traverse her borders, 
and especially in the central and northern 
portions, in every direction, linking all 
her towns and districts to each other and \ 
with all the surrounding States. Nearly ' 
1,500 miles of railroad — either finished 
or being built — ^now centre in Savannah, 
communicating thence, directly or indi- 
rectly, westward with Macon and Colum- 
bus, northward with Charleston and with 
Montgomery in Alabama, with Aug'usta, 
Atlanta, and onward to Tennessee, etc. 
The Atlantic and Gulf Railroad is com- 
pleted and in operation a distance of 189 
miles to Boston, whence it will soon 
reach Pensacola and other points in Flo^'' 
ida. The Central Railroad extends from 
Savannah, 190 miles, to Macon, withi 
branch deflecting from Millen to Augusta,- 
and another from Gordon to Milledgcviile , 
and Eatonton. The Macon and Western 
links the Central road from Savannah with 
the Western and Atlantic at Atlanta. AH 



I 



r^UCroSTA.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Atlanta. 



these and other routes we shall duly fol- 
low as we continue our journey through 
the south and southwest. Florida is 
reached at Pilatka, Jacksonyille, St. Au- 
Igustine, and other places, by regular tri- 
weekly steamers from Savannah. (See 
chapter on Florida.) Steamboats ply daily 
|o Augusta and other points on the Sa- 
annah River. Lines of steamships also 
[furnish direct communication with New 
fork, Philadelphia, and other Northern 
tlantic ports. 

Aug'usta — Hotels, the Planters', 
uffusta, and the Globe, centrally located 
n Broad Street, are all well-conducted 
stablislxments. Augusta, one of the most 
eautiful cities in Georgia, and the second 
In population and importance, is on the 
astern boundary of the State, upon the 
anks of the Savannah River, 230 miles 
[rora its mouth, and at the head of its 
avigable waters, 120 miles north-north- 
est from Savannah, and 136 northwest 
om Charleston, with both of v/hich 
ities it has long been connected by rail- 
ad. Railway connection with the lat- 
r city, which was broken during the 
ar by the destruction of portions of the 
■ack, has not yet (May, 186G) been re- 
ored. The to'mi was laid out in 1*735, 
nder royal charter. It was again char- 
red January 31, 1798, and incorporated 
a city December 19, 1817. The area 
braced by the city is two miles in 
ngth and about one in width. Its pres- 
t population is nearly 20,000, and is 
eadily increasing. Broad Street, the 
ain thoroughfare of the city, is a noble 
enue. This is the Broadway of the city, 
jherein all the shopping and promenad- 
g are done, and where the banks, and 
tels, and markets are to be found, 
jreene Street is also a broad, prettily 
aded avenue. Of late years, Augusta 
,s spread itself greatly over the level 
Inds westward. 

A pleasant ride of between two and 
ree miles from the heart of the town, 
ings the visitor to a lofty range of sand- 
Us, covered with charming summer 
isideuces. This high ground is in 
althful atmospheres, even when epi- 
mics prevail — as they very rarely do, 
iwever — in the cily below. This sub- 
|ban settlement is now known as Sum- 
orville. Here are located the United 



States Arsenal, erected in 1827, and the 
long range of workshops built and used 
by the Confederates during the war. The 
latter extend upwards of 500 feet in 
length, are substantially built, and pre- 
sent an imposing aspect. Returning to 
the city by leaving the main road to the 
left, a short distance from the Arsenal 
the traveller can get a view of the Pow- 
der Mill and Cotton Factories immediately 
on the outskirts of the city. These latter 
are very extensive, and give constant em- 
ployment to 700 operatives. There are 
other pleasant drives along the banks of the 
Savannah, particularly below the city ; and 
across the river at Hamburg there are 
some beautiful wooded and grassy terraces, 
known as Shultz's Hill, and much re- 
sorted to' as a picnic-ground. Augusta 
has one or two fine public buildings. The 
City Hall, built at a cost of $100,000, the 
Medical College, the Richmond Academy, 
and the Masonic Hall, are every way 
creditable to the taste and liberality of 
the people. The monument, which stands 
in front of the City Hall, was erected to 
the memory of the signers of the Declara- 
tion of Independence from the State of 
Georgia. The churches are about fifteen 
in number. St. Patriclc's, corner of Jack- 
son and Telfair Streets, constructed in 
1863, at a cost of $42,000, is a fine edifice. 
The Market Houses are on Broad Street, 
and are three-fourths of a mile apart. 
The rapid development of the up-country 
of Georgia, within a few years, has 
brought down to Augusta, by her rail- 
ways, great prosperity; and the water 
power which has been secured by means 
of a canal, which brings the upper floods 
of the Savannah River to the city, at an 
elevation of some 40 feet, is enlarging 
and enriching it by extensive and profita- 
ble manufactures. This canal, 9 miles in 
length, was constructed in 1845. 

Atliens, 92 miles from Augusta, 
71 from Milledgeville. Hotel, Lanier 
House. 

This is a flourishing town on the 
Oconee River, at the terminus of the 
Athens branch of the Georgia Railway. 
The situation is healthy, and the climate 
delightful. It is the seat of FrankUn 
College. 

Atla^nta. — Hotel, National. 

The city of Atlanta is the outgrowth 
. 367 



Atlanta.] 



GEORGIA. 



[DliCATDI 



of the railroad system centreing there. 
It is emphatically a railroad tomi. The 
original charter of the Western and At- 
lantic Railway authorized its construction 
from Chattanooga, Tennessee, to the 
southeast bank of the Chattahoochee 
River. In ISS'l an act was passed 
authorizing its extension eight miles in a 
southeasterly direction, the survey for 
which brought it to the site of the pres- 
ent city. In 1845 the Georgia Railroad 
was completed to Atlanta, and formed a 
junction with the Chattanooga and Atlanta 
or " State Road," as it is locally known. 
In 1848 the Macon and Western Railroad 
was completed, but little progress was 
made toward a permanent settlement 
until 1852. Even as late as 1853 the 
population of the place scarcely amounted 
to 1,500. 

Apart from the memorable siege with 
which its name is inseparably connected, 
Atlanta possesses little to interest the 
traveller or tourist. Owing to its com- 
manding central position, in the very 
heart of the South, not less than on 
account of its railroad, manufacturing, 
and other important advantages, it be- 
came a point of the utmost importance 
early in the war. Indeed, in the opinion 
of those best qualified to judge, its im- 
portance was second only to that of Rich- 
mond. The series of active military 
operations of which Atlanta was the cen- 
tre, commenced July 9, 1864, by the 
retreat of General Johnston within the 
fortifications of Atlanta, which extended 
nearly five and a half miles along the 
river. By the I'Zth of July, the Federal 
forces, with the exception of one (Davis's) 
division of the 14th corps, were across 
the Chattahoochee, and on the 18th occu- 
pied the Georgia Railroad, from Stone 
Mountain on the northeast to Decatur 
and Peach Tree Creek, within five miles 
of Atlanta. On the lYth the command 
of the Confederate troops was transferred 
to General Hood. From that time up to 
the 1st of September, a vigorous siege of 
the city was kept up, when General Hood 
gave orders for the evacuation of the 
works, it having been discovered that the 
main body of the besieging army lay 
between the city and General Hardee. 
Fire was set to the rolling stock of the 
several railroads concentrating here, and 
368 



to all the stores and ammunition, an 
soon the heavens were lurid with th 
flames which rose from the doomed citj 
A reconnoitring column from General Sic 
cum's command entered the city on the 2c 
and received its foi'mal surrender fror 
Mayor Calhoun. It is estimated that uj: 
wards of one thousand buildings, includ 
ing the principal factories, mills, am 
workshops, were destroyed by this fire 
The main buildings at present remain 
ing, are the Medical College, the Frcshy 
terian, ilethodist, and Baptist ChurcJiei 
the Cili/ Hall, and a few of the residence 
in the northern exti-emity of the citj 
The city is rising phoenix-lilce from it 
ashes ; the gi'eater portion of the burn ; 
district has already been rebuilt, and sooi 
but little trace of its downfall and d«> 
struction will be left. The corporate lim 
its embrace an area of four miles square 
and the population, already 12,000, is rap. 
idly increasing. 

IJecatiar, a station on the Georgii 
Railroad, six miles east of Atlanta, is f 
healthy and agreeable resort. Siom 
Mountain, 9 miles from Decatur, is alsc' 
reached from Atlanta by the Georgif 
road. At this place is an isolated dome 
shaped granite rock 2,200 feet above th( 
sea level. On the summit of this rock L' 
a tower 180 feet high, commanding a fim' 
view of the surrounding country. Th( 
village has good hotel accommodations, 
(See Stone Mountain, in mountain scener} 
of Georgia.) 

l>altoi&, situated 100 miles north ol 
Atlanta and 36 miles south of Chatta- 
nooga, at the intersection of the East; 
Tennessee and Georgia with the Western: 
and Atlantic Railway, is a growing place. 
The town (formerly Cross Plains) was 
laid out in 1846. ' Mountain scenery in 
the vicinity. 

Macom, 191 miles from Savannah, 
100 from Atlanta. Hotels, the Lanier 
House, Broivn's Hotel. Macon, one 
of the most prosperous and popu- 
lous cities of Georgia, is prettily situated 
on the Ocmulgee River, at the western 
terminus of the Central Railway. Occu- 
pying so central and important a position, 
it is not a little surprising that it entirely 
escaped the ravages of war. Like moft 
of the cities of the State, it is well laid 
out. The streets are generally 180 fedjt 



flLLEDSEVILLE.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Albany. 



Hde, and adorned with shade-trees. The 
loil behig of a sandy, porous character, 
loes not long retain moisture, and the 
\>cale is healthy and inviting. The Wes- 
\jcm Female Oollege, a flourishing insti- 
^ition before the war, and even now, 
iumbering over 100 students, is located 
lere. The Academy for the Blind, built 
y the State, of briclc, four stories high, 
an imposing edifice. It has, also, a 
otanico-Medical College, a Free Acade- 
my, and several schools for orphans, 
here are several iron foundries, flour 
liills, and machine shops. The Macon 
ctory is prosperously engaged in the 
anufacture of coarse cotton goods. 
'nse Hill Cemetery, on the banlvS of the 
cmulgee, is a pretty rural retreat, within 
sy walking distance of the city. It is 
ell improved, and contains some fine 
onuments. Lamar^s Mound is a rising 
ound, covered with fine private resi- 
jences, a continuation of which brings 
|ie visitor to the pleasant suburban vil- 
e of Vineville. The population of the 
ty is upwards of 12,000, and increasing, 
hree daily and two weekly newspapers 
■e published here. 

Milledg-eville. — Hotels, Mil- 
dgcville Hotel, McComVs Hotel. Mil- 
dgeville, the capital of Georgia, a town 
F about 3,000 people, is upon the Oconee 
jivei", in the midst of a fine cotton-grow- 
|g region. From Savannah, by the 
ntral Railway, to Gordon, 171 miles, 
id thence by the Milledgeville and 
•xtonton, 18 miles. Total, 189 miles, 
[•om Augusta, 163 miles ; from Colum- 
is, 135 miles ; and from Atlanta, 139 
iles. The Capitol at Milledgeville is a 
Gothic structure. The city also 
intains a Stale Arsenal, a Penitentiary, 
Coxirt House, and five church edifices, 
le Oglethorpe University is at Midway, 
pretty village on the railway, 1^ miles 
ilow Milledgeville. 

Katoiitou, the county seat of Put- 
m County, is pleasantly situated on a 
Igh ridge of land, at the terminus of the 
ranch road from Gordon, on the Georgia 
ntral. It has excellent schools and 
tractive scenery. 

Coliuu'bus, 99 miles from Macon, 
9 miles from Atlanta. Hotels, Hor- 
cJi's (formerly Perry House), Cook^s, 
|th well-kept estabhshments, with every 



convenience for visitors. Columbus is 
a town of considerable trade, situated on 
the east bank of the Chattahoochee River, 
which forms the western boundary of the 
State. Across the river has been erected 
a fine bridge, connecting Columbus with 
the town of Girard, Ala. It was laid 
out in 1827, on what was then known as 
the Coweta Reserve, at the head of the 
Falls. These falls supply one of the 
finest water-powers to be found in the 
South, and the manufacturing interests 
of the city are already very extensive. 
It is the centre of a fine agricultural dis- 
trict, and large quantities of cotton are 
shipped hence to the seaboard, via the 
Chattahoochee (see Chattahoochee liiver). 
The principal buildings are the Court 
House, Presbyterian Church, Temperance 
Hall, Bank of Columbus, and two hotels. 
The streets are all wide and laid out at 
right angles. Of the three bridges which 
formerly crossed the river at this point, 
and which were destroyed during the 
war (April, 1865), but one has been re- 
built. The city has railway communica- 
tion with all important points in the 
State. Population 10,000. Just above 
Columbus there are some picturesque 
rapids in the Chattahoochee, overlooked 
by a fine rocky b]uff, famous in story as 
the " Lover's Leap." The scene would 
be a gem in regions the most renowned 
for natural beauty. . On the left, the river 
pursues its downward course to the city, 
in a straight line. Its flow is rapid and 
wild, broken by rocks, over which the 
water frets and foams in angry surges. 
The bed of the stream is that of a deep 
ravine, its walls lofty and irregular cliffs, 
covered to their verge with majestic 
forest growth. From this point the city 
of Columbus is but partially visible. The 
village of Girard and the surrounding 
hills on the Alabama side form a dis-, 
tinct and beautiful background to the 
picture. 

Fort Talley, in Houston County, 
is on the Southwestern Railway, 72 miles 
east of Columbus, and 28 miles southwest 
of Macon. It contains two church edifices 
and a flourishing academy. 

All>any, 76 miles from Macon, by 

the Southwestern Railway, is on Flint 

River, at the mouth of Kinchafoonee 

Creek. Cotton to the amount of 15,000 

360 



Clarksvillk.] 



GEORGIA. 



[TOCCOA FaU! 



bales was shipped from this point previ- 
ous to the war. The surrounding coun- 
try is among the richest in the State. 
Eufaula, Ala., a thriving town on the 
Chattahoochee River, is reached by a 
branch road from the Southwestern Rail- 
way at Smithville. 

Tlie Moiimtaiii Reg'ion of* 
Georg'ia. — Throughout all Northern 
Georgia, the traveller will find a continua- 
tion of the chai'ming Blue Ridge land- 
scape, which we have already explored in 
the contiguous regions of tipper South 
Carolina, and North Carolina West. This 
picturesque district in the " Pine State " 
extends from Rabun County, in the north- 
eastern corner of the State, to Dade, in 
the extreme northwest, where the summit 
of the Lookout Mountain overlooks the 
valley of the Tennessee. Here are the 
famous gold lands, and in the midst of 
them the Dahlonega branch of the United 
States Mint. The most frequented, if not 
the finest scenes in this neighborhood are 
in the northeast, as the wonderful Falls 
of Tallulah and Toccoa, the valley of Na- 
cochee and Mount Yonah in Habersham 
County, the Cascades of Eastatoia and 
the great Rabun Gap in Rabun ; all within 
a day's ride of the Table Mountain, 
Caesar's Head, Jocasse, the Whitewater 
Falls, and other wonders of South Caro- 
lina. Further west are the Falls of Ami- 
calolah, the Cahutta Mountain, the Dog- 
wood Valley, and Mount Lookout. This 
was formerly the hunting-ground of the 
Cherokees ; and, indeed, not many years 
have passed since the final removal of 
this tribe to new homes beyond the Mis- 
sissippi. 

ClarlcsTlIle, a pleasant village in 
Habersham County, is a favorite summer 
residence of the people of the "Low 
Country" of Georgia, and the point of 
rendezvous for the exploration of the 
landscape of the region — the point from 
whence to reach Tallulah, Toccoa, Nocoo- 
chee, etc. From Charleston or Columbia, 
or other places in South Carolina, follow 
the railways to Greenville or to Anderson, 
S. C, and proceed thence by stage, one 
to two days' ride, to Clarksville ; or take 
the Georgia railways from Augusta to 
Athens, and thence by stage, one or two 
days' travel, to Clarksville, passing the 
370 



Madison Springs, Mount Currahee, an 
Toccoa. 

Toccoa Falls is in the County o! 
Habersham, a few miles from the viilag 
of Clarksville. A narrow passage leadi 
from the roadside to the foot of the fall 
Before the spectator rises a perpendicula; 
rock resembling a rugged stone wall, am 
over it 

" The brook comes babbling down the monn' 
tain's side." 

The height of the fall is now 180 feet- 

'• Beautiful streamlet ! onward glide, 
In thy destined course to the ocean's tidel 
So youth impetuous, longs to be — 
Tossed on the waves of manhood's sea: 
But weary soon of cloud and blast, 
Sighs for the haven its bark hath passed ; 
And though thon rushest now with glee, 
By hill and plain to seek the sea — 
No lovelier spot again thou'lt find ^| 

Than that thou leavest here behind ; ^| 
Where hill and rock 'rebound the call'^B 
Of clear Toccoa's waterfall ! " 

There are picturesque legends connect- ( 
ed with this winsome spot ; one of which ^ 
narrates the story of an Indian chief and t 
his followers, who, bent upon the exten; 
mination of the whites, and trusting to 
the guidance of a woman, were led by I 
her over the precipice, and, of courae^l 
perished in their fall. 

The Caiaracis of Tallulah are 12 mile»l 
from Clarksville (see route to Clarksville); 
by a road of very varied beauty. From Too- i 
coa to Tallulah the cut across is five or sii « 
miles only. There is a comfortable hold t 
near the edge of the gorges traversed by 
this wild moimtain stream, and hard byl 
its army of waterfalls. The Tallulah or i 
Terrora, as the Indians more appositely ' 
called it, is a small stream, which rushes 
through a chasm in the Blue Ridge, rend- 
ing it for several miles. The ravine is 
1,000 feet in depth, and of a similar 
width. Its walls are gigantic cliffs of 
dark granite. The heavy masses piled 
upon each other in the wildest confusion, 
sometimes shoot out, overhanging the 
yawning gulf, and threatening to break 
from their seemingly frail tenure, and 
hurl themselves headlong into its dark 
depths. Along the rocky and uneven 
bed of this deep abyss, the infuriated 
Terrora frets and foams with ever-varying 



The Pulpit.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Mount Yonah. 



course. Now, it flows in sullen majesty, 
through a deep and romantic glen, em- 
bowered in the foliage of the trees, which 
here and there spring from the rocky 
ledges of the chasm walls. Anon, it 
f-ushes with accelerated motion, breaking 
fretfully over protruding rocks, and utter- 
ing harsh murmurs, as it verges a preci- 
pice — 

" "WTiere, collected all, 
In one impetuous torrent, down the steep 
It thundering shoots, and shakes the country 

round : 
At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad; 
Then whitening hy degrees as prone it falls, 
And from the loud-resounding rocks below 
Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
A hoary mist, and forms a. ceaseless shower." 

The most familiar point of observation 
The Pulpit^ an immense cliff which 
projects far into the chasm. From this 
josition, the extent and depth of the fear- 
ul ravine, and three of the most roman- 
ic of the numerous cataracts, are observed. 
Bit various other localities fine glimpses 
lown into the deep gorge are afforded, 
md numerous other paths lead to the 
)ottom of the chasm. At the several 
:ataracts — the Lodore, the Tempesta, the 
Icewna^ the Serpentine, and others — the 
)icture is ever a new and striking one — 
vhich the most striking and beautiful, it 
yould be very difficult to determine, 
rhe natural recess called the Trysting 
Rock, once the sequestered meeting- 
ilace of Indian lovers, is now a halting- 
pot for- merry groups as they descend 
he chasm, just below the Lodore cascade, 
^rom this point, Lodore is upon the left, 
ip the stream; a huge perpendicular 
[k'all of parti-colored rock towers up in 
TCJit and below; to the right are seen 
he foaming waters of the Oceana cas- 
ade, and the dark glen into which they 
re surging their maddened way. Tem- 
esta, the Serpentine, and other falls, lie 
et below. The wild grandeur of this 

ountain goi'ge, and the variety, number, 
nd magnificence of its cataracts, give it 
jank with the most imposing waterfall 
cenery in the Union. 

The Valley of JSfacoocliee, or the Even- 

bg Star, is said by tradition to have 

^on its name from the story of the hap- 

!ss love of a beauteous Indian princess, 

hose sceptre once ruled its solitudes. 



With or without such associations, it will 
be remembered with pleasure by all 
whose fortune it may be to see it. The 
valley-passages of the South are special- 
ties in the landscape, being often so small 
and so thoroughly and markedly shut in, 
that each forms a complete picture in it- 
self The little vale of Jocasse, in South 
Carolina, is such a scene, and that of Na- 
coochee is another, and yet finer example. 
Nacoochee, like Tallulah and Toccoa, is a 
pleasant day's excursion from Clarks- 
ville. 

Mount Yonah looks down into the 
quiet heart of Nacoochee, lying at its 
base. If the tourist should stay over- 
night in the valley, as he will be apt to do, 
he ought to take a peep at the mountain 
panorama to be seen from the summit of 
old Yonah. The village of Clayton is an 
out-of-the-way little place, occupying the 
centre of a valley completely encircled by 
lofty mountain ranges. 

The Falls of the Eastatoia are some 
three or four miles from the village of 
Clayton, in Eabun, the extreme north- 
eastern county of Georgia. They lie off 
the road to the right, in the passage of 
the Rabun Gap, one of the mountain 
ways from Georgia into North Carolina. 
Clayton may be reached easily from 
Clarksville, the next town southward, or 
in a ride of 12 miles from the Falls of 
Tallulah. 

The Eastatoia, or the Rabun Falls, 
as they are otherwise called, would 
be a spot of crowded resort, were it 
in the midst of a more thickly peo- 
pled country. The scene is a succes- 
sion of cascades, noble in volume and 
character, down the ravined flanks of a 
rugged mountain height. From the top 
of one of the highest of the falls, a mag- 
nificent view is gained of the valley and 
waters of the Tennessee, north of the vil- 
lage of Clayton, and the hills which en- 
compass it. Before exploring further 
the mountain scenery of Georgia, we feel 
in duty bound to say a few words about 
accommodations, conveniences for travel, 
etc., and to remind the traveller, that 
when he leaves the frequented routes 
hereabouts, or anywhere among the 
Southern hills, he must voyage in his 
own conveyance, wagon or on horseback 
(the latter the better), stop for the night 
371 



Falls of Amicalolah.] 



GEORGIA. 



[D All LOSE I 



at any cabin near -which the twilight may 
find him, content himself with such fare 
as he can get (we -won't discourage him 
by presenting the carte), and pay for it 
moderately -when he resumes his journey 
in the morning. 

Union County, lying upon the north- 
-west line of Habersham, is distin- 
guished for natural beauty, and for 
its objects of antiquarian interest. 
Among these is the Track Jiock, bearing 
wonderful impressions of the feet of curi- 
ous animals now extinct. 

Pilot Jlountm/i, also in Union, is a no- 
ble elevation of some 1,200 feet. 

Hiawassee Falls, on the Hiawassee Riv- 
er, present a series of beautiful cascades, 
some of them from 50 to 100 feet in 
height. 

The Falls of AmicalolaJi are in Lump- 
kin County, southwest of Habersham. 
They lie some 17 miles west of the village 
of Dahlonega, near the State road leading 
to East Tennessee. The name is a com- 
pound of two Cherokee words — " Ami," 
signifying water, and " Calolah," rolling 
or tumbUng ; strikingly expressive of the 
cataract, and affording us another instance 
of the simplicity and significant force of 
the names conferred by the untutored 
sons of the forest. The visitor should 
rein up at the nearest farm-house, and 
make his way thence, either up the Rat- 
tlesnake Hollow to the base of the Falls, 
or to the summit. The range of moun- 
tains to the south and west, as it strikes 
the eye from the top of the falls, is truly 
sublime; and the scene is scarcely sur- 
passed in grandeur by any other, even in 
this country of everlasting hills. The 
•view from the foot embraces, as strictly 
regards tbe falls themselves, much more 
than the view from above, and is there- 
fore, perhaps, the better ; both, however, 
should be obtained in order to form a just 
conception of the scene; for here we 
have a succession of cataracts and cas- 
cades, the greatest not exceeding 60 feet, 
but the torrent, in the distance of 400 
yards, descending more than as many 
hundred feet. This creek has its source 
npon the Blue Ridge, several miles east 
of the falls ; and it winds its way, fringed 
-with wild flowers of the richest dyes, and 
kissed in autumn by the purple wild- 
grapes which cluster over its transparent 
372 



bosom ; and so tranquil and mirror-1 , 
is its surface, that one will fancy it to 
a thing of life, conscious of its proxim: 
fate, rallying all its energies for the sta 
ling leap; and he can scarcely forbt 
moralizing upon the oft-recurring a 
striking vicissitudes of human life, as ill 
trated in the brief career of this beauti 
streamlet. 

I>aIiloiieg'a, the thriving capii 
of Lumpkin County, is beautifully situat 
on a high hiU commanding a magnifice 
view of the mountain scenery of this love 
region. The Indian name of the pla 
was Tau-lau-ne-ea, " Yellow Monej 
The gold mines in the vicinity are st 
worke 1, and are the richest in Georg'. 
The United States branch mint cc 
$100,000. Travellers will find a well-ke 
hotel. 

Mount Currqhee is on the upper edge i 
Franklin County, adjoining Habershai 
where we have already visited the Falls 
Tallulah and Toccoa, Xacoocliee ai 
Tonah, and on the stage route fro 
Athens (see ClarhrciJle) to those scene 
It is about 16 miles above the village t 
Caimesville, and a few miles belo-;v tl 
Toccoa cascade. The traveller fresh froi 
the lowlands always finds this a scene o 
much interest. 

The Rock Mountain (Stone Mount«i 
is a place of great repute and resort in th 
western part of the State. ItisinDeKal 
County, 16 mUes east of Atlanta, th 
western terminus of the Georgia Railwaj 
It may thus be easily reached by th. 
Georgia Road from Augusta, and aU pointoj 
thereon, and from places on the maml 
different railwavs meeting at Atlanta 
(See Atlanta.) The mountain stands alon 
in a comparatively level region. It cover 
1,000 acres of surface. Its circumferenci 
is about six miles. Its height above thi 
sea 2,230 feet, which is further increasei 
by the addition of an observatory. Th( 
western view of the mountain, thougl 
perhaps the most beautiful, is not calcn 
lated to give the beholder a just concep 
tion of its magnitude. To obtain this, h* 
must visit the north and south sides, botli 
at the base and at the summit. Pursuing, 
for half a mile, a road wTiich winds in an 
easterly direction along the base of th€ 
mountain, the traveller arrives directly 
opposite its northern front. There 



Lookout Mountain.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Springs. 



view is exceedingly grand and imposing. 
Tliis side of the mountain presents an 
almost uninterrupted surface of rock, 
rising about 900 feet at its greatest eleva- 
' tion. It extends nearly a mile and a half, 
' gi-adually declining toward the west, while 
; the eastern termination is abrupt and 
' precipitous. The side is not perpendicu- 
lar, but exhibits rather a convex face, 
deeply marked with furrows. During a 
' shower of rain, a thousand waterfalls pour 
' down these channels ; and if, as sometimes 
'happens, the sun breaks forth in his 
'splendor, the mimic torrents flash and 
, sparkle in his beams, like the coruscations 
; of countless diamonds. Near the road is 
;a spi'ing, which, from the beauty of its 
ilocation, and the delightful coolness of its 
iwaters, is an agreeable place of resort. 
It is in a shady dell, and its water gushes 
'up from a deep bed of white and sparkling 
.sand. A more exquisite beverage a pure 
taste could not desire. Among the curios- 
.ities of the mountain, there are two 
;which are especially deserving of notice. 
|One is the " Cross Roads." There are 
(two crevices or fissures in the rock, which 
icross each other nearly at right angles, 
ffhey commence as mere cracks, increas- 
iing to the width and depth of five feet at 
their mtersection. They are of different 
lengths, the longest extending probably 
^00 feet. These curious passages are 
bovered at their junction by a flat rock, 
libout 20 feet in diameter. Another is 
the ruins of a fortification, which once 
Burrounded the crown of the mountain. 
kt is said to have stood entire in 1788. 
VVhen or by whom it was erected is un- 
known. The Indians say that it was there 
pefore the time of their fathers. 
I Lookout Mountain. — On the summit 
i |)f this beautiful spur, the northwest 
i corner of Georgia and the northeast ex- 
iremity of Alabama, meet the southern 
boundary of Tennessee. Almost in the 
ihadow of the Lookout heights lies the 
[msy town of Chattanooga, in Tennessee, 
HI the great railwayrouto from Charleston 
na the Georgia roads to Knoxville, and 
hence by the Virginia railways to the 
lorth ; and on the other hand westward, 
Jirough Nashville, to the Ohio and the 
(lississippi. (See Chattanooga, in the 
(hapter on Tennessee.) The country 
'round the "Lookout" is extremely pic- 



turesque; the views all about the moun- 
tain itself are admirable, and nothing can 
exceed in beauty the charming valley of 
the Tennessee and its waters, as seen from 
its lofty summit. It is, too, in the imme- 
diate vicinage of the Dogwood Valley, and 
the Nickajack Cave in Alabama. 

The Falls of the Towalaga would be 
beautiful anywhere, and they are therefore 
particularly so occurring as they do in a 
part of the State not remarkable for its 
picturesque character. They are easily 
reached from Forsyth or Griffin on the 
Macon and "Western Railway. The river 
above the falls is about three hundred 
feet in width, fiowing swiftly over a rocky 
shoal. At its first descent it is divided by 
a ledge of rock, and forms two precipitous 
falls for a distance of fifty feet. The falls 
are much broken by the uneven surface 
over which the water flows, and on reach- 
ing their rocky basin, are shivered into 
foam and spray. From the foot of this 
fall the stream foams rapidly down its 
declivitous channel for two hundred feet, 
and again bounds over a minor precipice 
in several distinct cascades, which com- 
mingle their waters at its base in a cloud 
of foam. 

SPRINGS. 

The Indian. Springs are in Butts County, 
near the falls of the Towalaga. (See Macon 
and Western Railway.) 

The Madi&on Springs are on the stage 
route from Athens to the -waterfall region 
of Habersham County, seven miles from 
Danielsville, the capital of Madison 
County. (See Athens branch, Georgia 
Railway.) 

The Warm Springs, in Merriweather 
County, are 36 miles N. E. by stage 
from Columbus. A nearer railway point 
is Lagrange, on the Atlanta and West 
Point Railway. These springs discharge 
1,400 gallons of water per minute, of 90 
degrees Fahrenheit. 

The Sulphur Springs are six miles north 
of Gainesville, Hall County, in the upper 
part of the State. (See Athens branch, 
Georgia Railway.) 

The Rowland Springs are about six 

miles from Cartersville, in Cass County. 

Cartersville is a station on the Western 

and Atlantic Railway, 4*7 miles north of 

373 



Sl'RlNGS.] 



GEORGIA. 



[Springs. 



Atlaata and 89 miles south of Chatta- 
nooga. 

The JRed Sulphur Springs, or " the Vale 
of Springs" are at the base of Taylor's 
Ridge, in Walker County, the northwest 
corner of the State. In the vicinage is 
the Lookout Mountain and other beautiful 
scenes. No less than twenty springs are 
found here in the space of half a mile, — 
chalybeate, sulphur, red, white and black, 
and magnesia. (See Chattanooga and 
vicinity.) 

374 



The Thundering Springs are in TTpson 
County. The nearest railway station is 
Forsyth. (See Macon and Western Rail- 
way.) 

The Powder Springs — sulphur and mag- 
nesia — are in Cobb County, 20 miles 
above Atlanta. (See Western and Atlantic 
Railway.) 

Nickajack Cave is in the immediate 
vicinity of Chattanooga. (See chapter 
on Alabama.) 



FlOKISA.] 



FLORIDA. 



[Florida. 



FLOEID A.. 



Florida is much visited from tlie north 
during the winter months by those who 
love mild and balmy atmospheres, and 
especially by invalids in quest of health- 
restoring climates. The villages of St. 
Augustine, Jacksonville, Pilatka, and 
neighboring places, which are those most 
particularly sought, are near the Atlantic 
coast, in the extreme northeastern part of 
the State. They may be speedily and 
pleasantly reached by steamers from 
Charleston and Savannah, as we shall 
show, after a very hasty peep at the spe- 
cialties in the history and character of the 
region. Though so recently (1820) ad- 
mitted into the Confederacy of States, 
Florida is more fertile in materials of his- 
tory than many of her elder sister States. 
Hith er came Poncede Leon (1512), hoping 
to find the fabled fountain of perpetual 
youth and strength ; and shortly after, 
is^arvaez, who invaded the country from 
Cuba with 400 men, and penetrating the 
interior, was never again heard of De 
Soto followed in 1539, with a not much 
happier reward, for though he subdued the 
savages and took possession of their land, 
it was only to leave it again and to pass on. 
Battle and strife have, with intervals of 
quiet, so characterized Florida, almost to 
the present day, that its name would seem 
but irony did it really refer, as is generally 
supposed, to the floral vegetation of the 
3oil, instead of to the simple happening of 
the discovery of the country on Pascica 
Florida, or Palm Sunday. The earliest 
settlements in Florida were made by the 
I rench, but they were driven out by the 
Spaniards, who established themselves 
ecurely at St. Augustine in 1565, many 
'ears before any other settlement was 
jaade on the western shores of the Atlan- 
lic. Before the Revolution, Florida warred 
vith the English colonies of Carolina and 



Georgia, and passed into British posses- 
sion in 1763. It was reconquered by 
Spain in 1781, and from that period until 
within very late years, it has been the 
field of Indian occupation and warfare. 
The reconquest by Spain in 1781, was 
confirmed in lYSS, and in 1821 that power 
ceded the country to the United States. 
Its territorial organization was made in 
1822, and its admission into the Union as 
a State occurred March 3, 1845. A san- 
guinary war was waged from 1834 to 1842, 
between the troops of the United States 
and the Indian occupants, the Seminoles, 
led by their famous chief Osceola. Since 
that period the savages have been re- 
moved to other territory, excepting 
some few who are still in possession of 
the impenetrable swamps and jungles 
of the lower portions of the State. 
The ordinance of secession was pass- 
ed at Tallahassee, January 7, 1861. 
Florida is the grand peninsula forming the 
extreme southeastern part of the United 
States. Its entire area eastward lies upon 
the Atlantic, and the Gulf of Mexico 
washes almost the whole of the western 
side. Georgia and Alabama are upon the 
north. The country is for the most part 
level, being nowhere more than 250 or 
300 feet above the sea. The southern 
part of the peninsula is covered with a 
large sheet of water called the Everglades 
— an immense area, filled with islands, 
which it is supposed may be reclaimed 
by drainage. The central portion of the 
State is somewhat elevated, the highest 
point being about 1*71 feet above tlie 
ocean, and gradually declining toward 
the coast on either side. The country 
between the Suwanee and the Chatta- 
hoochee is elevated and hilly, and the 
western region is level. The lands of 
Florida are almost sui generis, very curi- 
375 



Florida.] 



FLORIDA. 



[HlBKRNFA. 



ously distributed, and may be desig- 
nated as high hummock, low hummock, 
swamp, savannas, and the different 
qualities of fine land. High hum- 
mock is usually timbered with live and 
other oaks, with magnolia, laurel, etc., 
and is considered the best description of 
land for general purposes. Low hum- 
mock, timbered with live and water oak, 
is subject to overflows, but when drained 
is preferred for sugar. Savannas, on the 
margins of streams and in detached bodies 
are usually very rich and alluvious, yield- 
ing in dry seasons, but needing, at other 
times, ditching and diking. Marsh 
savannas, on the borders of tide 
streams, are very valuable, when re- 
claimed, for rice or sugar-cane. The 
swampy, island-filled lake callecf the 
Everglades is covered with a dense jungle 
of vines and evergreens, pines, and pal- 
mettoes. It lies south of Okechobee, and 
is 160 miles long and 60 broad. Its 
depth varies from one to six feet. A 
rank tall grass springs from the vegetable 
deposits at the bottom, and rising above 
the surface of the water, gives the lake 
the deceitful air of a beautiful verdant 
lawn. The soil is v/ell adapted, it is 
thought, to the production of the plantain 
and the banana. In the interior of Flori- 
da there is a chain of lakes, of which the 
extreme southern link is Lake Okechobee, 
nearly 20 miles in length. Many of these 
waters are extremely picturesque in their 
own unique beauty of wild and rank tropi- 
cal vegetation. The rivers of the State 
are numerous, and, like the lakes, pre- 
sent everywhere to the eye of the stranger 
very novel attractions, in the abundance 
and variety of the trees and shrubs and 
vines which line all their shores and 
bayous. The largest of the many rivers 
is the Appalachicola, which crosses the 
western arm of the State to the Gulf of 
Mexico. The St. Mary's is the boundary 
on" the extreme northern corner, Georgia 
being upon the opposite bank. Its waters 
flow into the Atlantic, as do those of the 
St. Johns River, in the same section of 
the State. All the main points of inter- 
est in Florida are easily reached from 
■ Savannah by steam-packets down the 
coast. The Dictator makes the round 
trip from Charleston to Jacksonville 
weekly, stopping at Savannah and Fernan- 
376 



dina ; other boats run between Savannah ■ 
and Pilatka, calling at Brunswick, St. 
Mai'ys, Fernandina, Jacksonville, and 
Picolata. The St. Johns River is the prin- 
cipal point of attraction, and that to which 
we propose to direct the more particular 
attention of the tourist. It comes from 
a marshy tract in the central part of the 
peninsula, flowing first northwest to the 
mouth of the Ochlawaha, and thence 
about northward to Jacksonville, and 
finally eastward to the Atlantic. It is 
navigated by steamboats only to Pilatka, 
though vessels drawing eight feet of 
water may pass up 107 miles, to Lake 
George. The entire length of the river 
is 200 miles. The country which it trav- 
erses is covered chiefly with dank cypress 
swamps and desolate pine barrens; the 
banks, which are from ten to twenty 
feet high, are overgrown with the trees for 
which the State is so famous, amongst 
which are the pine, magnolia, live-oak, 
and palmetto. 

•ffadisonville, 25 miles from the 
mouth of the St. Johns, is the most impor- 
tant point on the river. It is a flourishing, 
busy town of about 2,000 inhabitants, 
has numerous saw-mills, and considerable 
commerce. Jacksonville has direct rail- 
way communication with Tallahassee and 
Cedar Keys. ' 

Mitoernia, situated at th« mouth 
of Black Creek, 4*7 miles up the St. Johns, 
is a quiet, pleasant, home-like place, of 
considerable resort. 

Micltllelsiarg-Isj 16 miles up Black 
Creek, report speaks favorably of. It 
consists of a few houses only. 

ItSagmolia (56 miles, on the west 
bank of the St. Johns) has a large hotel 
kept by Dr. Benedict, a Northern physi- 
cian, of established reputation. Good 
rooms and good entertainment may be 
expected here. 

©reem Cove Springs (wai-m 
sidphur) are one and a half miles above 
Magnolia. There is good accommodation 
for visitors. 

Picolata, 10 miles beyond Magno- 
lia, and 66 miles from the mouth, has a 
good house for visitors. This is the point 
of departure f8r St. Augustine. 

P'ilatka, on the west bank, 25 
miles, or two hours, further south, is a 
new and thriving town, deriving consider-- 



Enteepkise.] 



FLORIDA. 



[St. Augustine. 



able trade from the fertile back country. 
It is the capital of Putnam County. 
Here are two hotels. Passengers take 
stage here for Orange Spr'ings and 
Ocala. 

Wilalca is a comparatively recent 
settlement, on the east bank of the St. 
[Johns, 110 miles from its mouth. 

SEnterpi'ise (180 miles), also on 
the east bank, on Lake Monroe, boasts 
a new, large, commodious, and well-kept 
hotel. The hunting and fishing are good 
in the vicinity. Steamboat excursions on 
the St. Johns River are frequently made 
po Lake Harney^ sixty miles above Enter- 
brise. Thirty miles east from Enterprise, 
pa the sea-coast, and four miles from 
osquito Inlet, is Neio Smyrna, consist- 
g of two houses. Reached by mail- 
agon, once a week. Mr. Sheldon enter- 
ains company, and insures them capital 
port. Mail Isoat leaves here for Indian 
iver every second week. This is a fine, 
lealthy location. A new hotel is to be 
ut up the coming season. 

St. Aiig'iistiiae, 160 miles from 
avannah, 200 from Tallahassee. St. 
iugustine is well furnished with ho- 
tels and boarding-houses, and there is 
musually ample and comfortable accom- 
iiodation for all comers. The principal 
lotels are the Magnolia, a well-built, 
veil-kept, and well-furnished resort, and 
he Planters'. First-class boarding- 
liouses are also to be found. Visitors, 
|nless more than ordinai'ily difficult and 
xacting, will find the tables satisfactorily 
urnished; admirably so, considering the 
5olation of the place, and its remoteness 
rom markets and commercial cities, 
'he winter fare consists of groceries and 
lutter from the North ; delicious fish and 
ysters, beef, game, poultry, venison, 
uck, wild turkey, and occasionally green 
firtle ; green peas and salads are rarely 
'1 eking, even in midwinter; game birds 
re abundant, such as quail, snipe, etc. 
i. Augustine is built along the seaward 
ide of a narrov/ ridge of land, situated be- 
ween a salt marsh and estuary half a mile 
'om the beach, two miles from the ocean, 
1 sight of the bar and lighthouse, and 
I ithin hearing of the surf. The soil is 
lindy loam and decomposed shell, and is 
jery productive. Approaching by a 
iridge and causeway crossing the St. 



Sebastian River and marsh, we enter a 
well-shaded avenue, flanked by gardens 
and orange-groves, which leads directly to 
the centre of the quaint old city. Here is 
the public square, a neat enclosure of 
some two acres, facing which, on either 
side, stand the Court House, the Market 
and wharf, the Protestant Episcopal 
Church — a plain building, in the pointed 
style, handsomely furnished — and, imme- 
diately opposite, the venerable Roman 
Catholic Church, a striking edifice of 
seemingly great antiquity, but built only 
about eighty years ago. It is of the periwig 
pattern, and in the worst possible taste. 
One of its bells bears date 1682. Con- 
nected with this church is a small convent 
and school. A minute's walk brings us 
to the sea-wall or breakwater, a broad line 
of massive masonry, built about 1840 by 
order of Government, at great cost, for 
the protection of the city, but whose chief 
use is that of affording to the inhabitants 
the pleasantest promenade in fine weather. 
This wall extends half a mile southward 
to the now deserted barracks and maga- 
zine, and as far northward as Fort Mccrion 
(formerly Castle of St. Mark), a pictu- 
resque and decayed fortress, which once 
commanded the whole harbor, looming up 
out of the flat landscape, grand as a 
Moorish castle, and forming the most 
conspicuous and interesting relic of the 
Spanish occupation. Parallel to this sea- 
wall, run north and south, with short in- 
tersections, the three principal streets or 
lanes, long, narrow, without pavement 
or sidewallc, irregularly built up with 
"dumpy" but substantial houses, rather 
dingy and antediluvian, mostly of stone, 
or with the lower stories stone and the 
upper of wood. They have invariably the 
chimneys outside, and are ornamented 
with projecting balconies and latticed 
verandas, from which the gay paint has 
long since faded, being all toned and 
weather-stained into one sombre gray hue, 
which, in keeping with the surroundings, 
is the joint result of age, neglect, sun, and 
saline air. Every house is separated from 
its neighbor by more or less of garden plot, 
ill protected by broken fence and crum- 
bling wall, wherein they raise two or more 
crops of vegetables every year, figs in 
perfection, and roses in unmeasured 
abundance. St. Augustine is sometimes 
3-77 



St. Augustine.] 



FLORmA. 



[Fernandina 



styled the "Ancient City," and is, indeed, 
the oldest in the United States. Its ap- 
peai-ance is in strict keeping with its 
venerable age, seen in the unequivocal 
marks of decay or decrepitation. Perhaps 
the friable nature of the common building 
material contributes to this ruinous ap- 
pearance, all the older houses being con- 
structed of a stratified concrete of minute 
shell and sand called " coquina," in blocks 
conveniently obtained, and easily worked, 
hardening by exposure, but abrading and 
crumbling in course of time. Coquina 
houses, however, are invariably dark, and 
always damp in winter, on which account 
frame dwellings, although not so cool for 
summer houses, are much preferred by 
the innovating Yankees. But the Minor- 
can, or sub-Spanish population, still 
adhere to their traditions, and refuse to 
be reformed. They build for the summer 
time — the longest season — and wisely 
build, when they do build, the same solid, 
squat, low-doored, narrow-windowed, dis- 
agreeably-dark and rheumatically-damp 
dwellings as ever. Visitors, however, in 
choosing winter quarters, will do well to 
prefer those hotels which are of frame, 
and have a cheerful sunny exposure. 
Northerners seeking in Florida a milder 
climate and permanent winter residence, 
have generally preferred St. Augustine. 
And with the best reason. The proximity 
of the Gulf Stream renders it warmer in 
winter and cooler in summer than the 
settlements on the St. Johns River. It is 
at present the most southern habitable 
place on the eastern coast; and it has 
peculiar advantages over all other towns 
in East Florida — in its churches, its com- 
pany, and its comforts. Good society 
may always be had there ; the citizens are 
hospitable, and among the visitors are 
always some agreeable persons, cultivated 
and distinguished. Visitors begin to 
arrive about the holidays, and the first 
" stranger " is looked for with as much 
anxiety as the first Connecticut shad. 
From the middle of March until the 
middle of April is the height of the season, 
and then the hotels are crowded. Deli- 
ciously fresh and mild is the atmosphere 
during the first spring heats. Then the 
soft south wind fills the senses with a 
voluptuous languor, and the evening land 
breeze comes laden with the fragrance of 
378 



orange-blossoms and the breath of roses. 
A moonlight walk upon the sea-wall su". 
gests the Mediterranean, and the illusion 
is heightened by the accents of a foreign 
tongue. The effect of these happy climat- 
ic and social conditions is very noticeable. 
The most morose tempers seem to lose 
their acerbity, and even the despairinn- 
invalid catches the contagion of cheerful- 
ness. Two-thirds of the population of St. 
Augustine (amounting to 1,300 whites) 
are of Spanish origin, and still speak the 
Spanish language. The women are pretty, > 
modest, dark-eyed brunettes ; dress neatly 
in gay colors, are skilful at needle-work, 
and good housewives. The men exhibit 
equally characteristic traits of race and 
nationality. The people are generally . 
poor. There are no manufactures. The 
town produces little, and exports nothing 
— its chief support, since the loss of its ' 
orange-groves, being derived from Gov- ' 
ernment offices, and receipts from strang- 
ers. It has one saw-mill, rarely running. 
It has a bathing-house, three good physi- 
cians, and a dentist. Anastaiia Island, 
opposite St. Augustine, is twenty miles in 
length, and affords picturesque views. 
Perhaps no city in the Union is healthier 
than St. Augustine. Thirty-six miles north 
of the St. Johns is the St. Mary's river. 

St. Mai-y's. — St. Mary's may be in- i 
eluded in this region, though it lies in the ^ 
State of Georgia, yet still near the north- ' 
east line of Florida. It is upon the St. 
Mary's River, nine miles from the sea. 
The village is a pleasant one, and the 
healthfulness of climate makes it a great 
resort for invalids. 

ff'ei'iiaiitlima, the county seat of 
Nassau County, is pleasantly situated on 
the north end of Amelia Island, a little 
south of the St. Mary's River. The island 
is fifteen miles long and nearly three in its 
greatest width. The land is well adapted 
to the growth of cotton. The town con- 
sists of about fifty houses, built of wood. 
The harbor is considered one of the best 
south of the Chesapeake. 

"TallaSiassee, 194 miles from Mo- i 
bile, 130 from Pensacola. Hotel, City 
Hotel. Tallahassee, the capital of Florida, 
is a pleasant city, of some 2,000 inhabi- 
tants, in the centre of the northern and 
most populous part of the State, near the 
head of the Gulf of Mexico. It is con- 



Iallahassek.] 



FLORIDA. 



[Pensacola. 



lected by railroad, 26 miles, with St. 
ilarks, near the Gulf. It is regularly 
built upon a somewhat elevated site. 
ft contains the State-House, Court-House, 
ind several churclies. Here on the Vth 
bf January, 1861, the ordinance of seces- 
sion was passed. Some of its public edi- 
ces are highly respectable, but do not 
;all.for any special remark. Chief among 
the attractions of Tallahassee are the 
many beautiful springs found in the 
I'icinity. Ten miles from the city is a 
famous fountain, called Waclmlla. It is 
{in immense limestone basin, &s yet un- 
athomed in the centre, with waters as 
ransparent as crystal. 

A Southern poetess has thus grai^hically 
lortrayed the beauties of Waclmlla: 

"Wachulla, beauteous Spring 1 thy crystal 
waters 

Eeflect the loveliness of Sonthern skies; 

Jid oft methinks the dark-haired Indian 
daughters 

Bend o'er thy silver depths with wondering 
eyes; 

rom forest glade the swarthy chief emerg- 
ing, 

Delighted paused, thy matchless charms to 
view ; 

hen to thy flower-gemmed border slowly 
verging, 

I see him o'er thy placid bosom urging 
His light canoe! 

'^ith the bright crimson of the Maple twin- 
ing, 

The fragrant Bay its peerless chaplet 
weaves ; 

nd where Magnolias in their pride are shin- 
ing. 

The broad Palmetto spreads its fan-like 
leaves: 

ir down the forest aisles where sunbeams 
quiver. 

The fairest flowers their rainbow hues com- 
bine; 

nd pendant o'er the s-n-iftly flowing river. 

The shadows of the graceful Willow shiver. 
In glad sunshine I 

•ight-plumaged birds their gorgeous hues 
en wreathing, 

Their amorous' tunes to listening flowers 
repeat; 

hich. in reply, their sweetest incense 
breathing, 

?our on the silent air their perfume sweet: 

^om tree to tree the golden jasmine creep- 
ing, 

langs its light bells on every slender spray; 

ad in each fragrant chalice slying peeping, 

Phe IIumming-Bird its odorous store is 



reaping, 



The livelong day!" 



ROUTES. 



From Pensacola to Tallahassee. — To La 
Grange (on Choctawhatchie Bay), by 
steamboat, 65 miles ; by stage to Holmes 
"Valley, 25 ; Oakey Hill, 42 ; Marianna, 
66 ; Chattahoochee, 90 ; Quincy, 108 ; 
Salubrity, 11*7; Tallahassee, 130. From 
Jacksonville to Tallahassee.— To the White 
Sulphur Spring, 82 miles. This carious 
spring rises in a basin ten feet deep and 
thirty in diameter ; it discharges a quan- 
tity of water, and after running a course 
of about 100 feet, enters the Suwanee 
River. The waters have been found very 
beneficial in cases of consumption, rheu- 
matism, and a variety of other complaints. 
Visitors will find ample accommodation 
here. From the mineral spring to Madi- 
son, 35 miles; Lipona, 73; Tallahassee, 
98 — or 180 miles from Jacksonville. 

Appsalaclaicola, is at the entrance 
of the river of the same name into the 
Gulf of Mexico, through the Appalachicola 
Bay. It is easily accessible by the river 
and the gulf, and is a place of large cot- 
ton shipments. It is 135 miles south- 
west of Tallahassee. Population 2,000. 
ff»eiisacola— Hotels, Bedell House, 
Winter's House, St. Mary's Hall. Pensacola 
is upon the Pensacola Bay, in the extreme 
northwest corner of the State, 10 miles 
from the Gulf of Mexico and 64 east of Mo- 
bile. It was known as late as 1699 by its 
Indian name of Auclusia. The harbor here 
is one of the safest on the Florida coast, 
which is not remarkable for safe harbors. 
It is well sheltered by St. Rosa Island, 
and is defended by Forts Pickens, McRea, 
and Barrancas. Forts McRae and Bar- 
rancas were occupied by rebel troops dur- 
ing the war of 1861-'65. Pensacola is a 
United States naval station, and contains 
a Marine Hospital and Custom House. 
The population of Pensacola is about 
8,000. 

Route from Pemacola to Mobile, Ala. 
—To Blakely, 50 ; Mobile, 64 miles. 

_ Xamapa is on Tampa, formerly Es- 
piritu Sauto Bay, which opens on the 
Gulf of Mexico, near the centre of the 
western coast of Florida. 

Key ^W^est City is upon the 

island of Key West, off the southern 

extremity of the peninsula, occupying the 

important post of key to the Gulf passage. 

379 



Key West City.] 



FLORIDA. 



[Key West Citt. 



It was first settled in 1822, and is now 
the most populous city of Florida, having 
a population of about 3,000. It is a mili- 
tary station of the United States. Some 
30,000 bushels of salt are annually made 
at Key West, by solar evaporation. 
Great quantities of sponges, too, are 
found and exported ; but the chief busi- 
ness of the island accrues from the sal- 
vages upon the wrecks cast upon the 
coast. Forty or fifty vessels are every 
year lost in the vicinity, by which the 
island profits to the amount of $200,000. 
The Marhie Hospital here, 100 feet long, 
is a noteworthy budding. Fort Taylor, 
a strong and costly post, defends the har- 
bor. The Charleston and Havana steam- 
ers touch at Key West once a week. 
The " Florida Steamship Line " despatch 
380 



a steamer fortnightly from Pier 9, East 
River, N. Y., for Appalachicola and Key 
West (Bennfir & Brown, 113 Wall Street, 
Agents). A railway now extends frora 
Fernandina, on the Atlantic coast, south- 
westerly across the peninsula, to Cedar 
Keys on the Gulf of Mexico ; stage lines di- 
verge to various points in the interior. The 
Pensacola and Georgia Railway will cross 
the upper part of the State from Jackson 
west to Tallahassee. This route is at 
present in operation 25 miles from Talla- 
hassee to Montieello. Other lines will 
soon connect Tallahassee with Pensacola, 
and with Savannah, Macon, etc. The 
best time to go to Florida (east coast), 
either for health or pleasure, is from the 
1st of January to the 1st of April. 



IAlabasia.] 



ALABAMA. 



[Alabama. 



ALABAMA 



This State, though hitherto little visited 
jby tourists and pleasure-seekers, either 
from the North or South, forms never- 
theless an interesting field of adventure, 
as weU as an important link of communi- 
cation in making the grand tour of the 
pouth. From the North it is most readily 
,b,nd expeditiously reached by way of 
liVVashington, Lynchburg, Knoxville, and 
ktlanta. The route by Savannah, Macon, 
"olumbus, and Montgomery is, however, 
he most pleasant, as combining both sea 
lid land travel. Travellers from New 
rleans and Mobile can reach Montgom- 
iry, the State capital, either by boat up 
he Alabama River, or by railway from 
klobile. The history of this State is in- 
olved in some obscurity. It is supposed 
hat it was first visited by white men in 
541, when the troops of De Soto passed 
hrough it on their memorable exploring 
xpedition to the great Mississippi. In 
702 a fort was erected in Mobile Bay by 
Frenchman named Bienville, and nine 
ears later the present site of the city of 
lobile was occupied At the peace of 
763 this territory passed into the pos- 
ession of the English, with all the French 
ossessions (except New Orleans) east of 
tie Mississippi. Until 1802 Alabama 
ras included in the domain of Georgia, 
nd after 1802 and up to 1817 it was a 
art of the Mississippi Territory. At 
liat period it was formed into a distinct 
jovernment, and was admitted in 1819 
to the Union as an independent State. 
he natural beauties of Alabama, except- 
g in the peculiar features of the south- 
n lowlands seen near the coast, are not 
such marked interest to the tourist as 
nc landscape of many other States. In 
upper region are the extreme southern 
,)()Sts of the great Appalachian hill 
iiy;es; but, as if wearied with all their 



long journey, they here droop their once 
bold heads and fall to sleep, willing, per- 
haps, to accept the poetical signification 
of the name of the new territory into 
which they now enter — Alabama, Here we 
rest While the upper portion of the 
State is thus rude and hilly, the central 
falls into fertile prairie reaches. The ex- 
treme southern edge for fifty or sixty 
miles from the gulf is sometimes a sandy, 
sometimes a rich alluvial plain. The cli- 
mate, like that of most of the Southern 
States, varies from the characteristics of 
the tropics below, through all the inter- 
mediate degrees, to the salubrious and in- 
vigorating air of the mountain lands 
above. The chief agricultural product 
of Alabama is cotton, of which great sta- 
ple it yielded, before the war, more than 
any other State in the Union. Extensive 
canebrakes once existed, but they have 
been greatly cleared away. Sugar-cane 
grows on the southwest neck, between 
Mobile and the Mississippi. Many of the 
rich alluvial tracts yield i-ice abundantly. 
Tobacco, also, is produced. Indian corn, 
oats, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, barley, 
flax, and silk, are much cultivated, besides 
many other grains, fruits, and vegetables, 
and large supplies of live stock of all de- 
scriptions. Alabama is rich in minerals ; 
deposits of coal, iron, variegated marbles, 
limestone, and other treasures, being ex- 
tensively found within her borders. Gold 
mines, too, have been found and worked. 
Salt, sulphur, and chalybeate springs 
abound. The State is divided into fifty-two 
counties, and contains a white population 
of nearly half a million. Montgomery, the 
capital, is a growing city ; the principal 
commercial towns are Mobile, Tuscaloosa, 
Huntsville, and Selma. 



ElVERS.- 



-The Alabama is the principal 
881 



Railways.] 



ALABAMA. 



[MOBILK. 



river of the State. It is formed by the 
Coosa and Tallapoosa, which unite about 
ten miles north of Montgomery. About 45 
miles above Mobile it is joined by the 
Tombigbeo, and the nnited waters are 
thence known as the Mobile lliver. The 
Alabama is navigable "for large steamers 
through its whole course of 460 miles, 
from the city of Mobile to Wetumpka. 
Between these points there are upwards 
of two hundred landings. It flows through 
a country of rich cotton-fields, broad 
savanna lands, and dense forest tracts. 
The trip down the Alabama, from Mont- 
gomery to Mobile, during the cotton- 
shipping season (December to March), 
forms one of the most interesting and 
exciting experiences of the Southern trav- 
eller. 

The Tomhighee River flows 450 miles 
from the northeast corner of Mississippi, 
first to Demopolis, where it unites with the 
Black AVarrior, and thence to the Alabama 
Eiver, about 45 miles above Mobile. Its 
course is through fertile savanna lands, 
occupied by cotton plantations. Aber- 
deen, Columbus, Pickensville, Gainesville, 
and Demopolis, are upon its banks. Large 
steamboats ascend 416 miles to Columbus. 

The Black Warrio7' River unites at 
Demopolis with the Tombigbee (see To7n- 
biffbee, above). Tuscaloosa, the capital of 
the State, is upon its banks. To this point 
large steamboats regularly ascend, 413 
miles from Mobile. The Indian name of 
this river was Tuscaloosa, and it is still 
thus sometimes called. 

The Chattahoochee forms a part of the 
eastern boundary of the State. (See 
Georgia.) 

The Tennessee flows for 130 miles of its 
course through northerr Alabama (see 
Muscle Shoals). The remaining rivers 
worthy of mention are the Cahawba, 
Escambia. Blackwater, Yellowwater, aaid 
Choctawhatchee. 

Railways. — The Mobile and Ohio Rail- 
way to Corinth and Jackson, Miss., Co- 
lumbus, Kentucky, 472 miles, and thence 
by steamer to Cairo, Illinois, where it 
connects with the Illinois Central to Chi- 
cago, and all points North, East, and 
West. 

The ifobile and Great JVorfJiern Rail- 
way. Steam ferry, 22 miles, to Tensas, 
382 



and thence 50 miles to Pollard, where it 
connects with the Alabama and F^ridn 
Railway to Montgomery, etc. A branch 
is in course of construction to Pensacola, 
Florida. 

The Memphis and Charleston Railway 
from Memphis, Tenn., via Corinth (93 
miles), Tuscumbia (145), Decatur (188), 
Huntsville (212), to Stevenson (272 miles), 
and thence by the Nashville and Chattor 
nooga Railway to Chattanooga, and tlie 
East and Northeast. 

The Montgomery and West Point Rail- 
ivay from Montgomery, 88 miles to West 
Point, and thence 87 miles to Atlanta. 

The Alabama and Ihinessee River 
Raihvay, 135 miles from Selma to Blue 
Mountain. Steamers from Selma to Mo- 
bile. Shelby Springs on this route. 

The Alabama and Mississippi River 
Railway from Selma 30 miles to Union- 
town, and thence by stage to Demopolis 
and Lauderdale Springs. 

The Pensacola and Georgia Railway is 
in operation between Lake City and 
Quincy. It will eventually extend between 
Pensacola and Tallahassee, Florida. 

The Mobile and Girard Railway will 
traverse the State from Columbus, Ga., to 
Mobile. Completed from Montgomery 47 
miles to Chunnuggee. 



MOBILE. 

165 miles from New Orleans ; 197 from 
Montgomery. 

Mobile was founded by the French in 
1699, and was ceded by that nation to Eng- 
land in 1763. To Lemoin D'Iberville, who 
has not inaptly been called the " father 
of Southern colonization," justly belongs 
the credit of founding the city. Historians, 
however, differ as to the precise date of 
the foundation. In 1780 England sur- 
rendered it to Spain, and that Government 
made it over to the United States in 1813. 
It was incorporated as a city in December 
1819, the population numbering about 800 
souls. It was one of the last points in the 
Confederacy occupied by Union forces 
during the late v/ar. This event took 
place April 12th, 1865. An explosion, 
which took place in the north end of the 
city on the 25th May following the occu- 
pation, destroyed twelve entire squares 



i 



Mobile.] 



ALABAMA. 



[Mobile. 



lof buildings, besides doing much damage 

in adjacent portions of the city. The 

city is pleasantly situated on a level, sandy 

plain which rises on the west bank of the 

Mobile River, immediately above its en- 

; trance into the bay, and thirty miles from 

[the Gulf of Mexico. The city extends 

1; along the river bank upwards of two 

I miles east and west, and nearly three 

imiles north and south, and is divided into 

'seven wards. Population about 35,000. 

The plateau is elevated 15 feet above the 

|highest tides, and commands a fine view 

[of the river and bay, from which it receives 

refreshing breezes. The numerous ob- 

[structions and shallowness of the channel 

at low water render navigation not only 

difficult but hazardous for vessels drawing 

Ipore than seven feet of water. They 

j cannot come directly up the bay to the 

city, but pass up Spanish River six miles 

round a marshy island into Mobile River, 

land down this a short distance to the 

wharves. As a cotton mart and place of 

xport for this great staple. Mobile ranks 

ext in importance to New Orleans. In 

850 the tonnage of the port was upwards 

f 23,000 tons; in 1860 it had increased 

37,000. The city is supplied with ex- 

ellent water, brought a distance of two 

Itniles, and thence distributed through the 

jity. On Mobile Point is a 'lighthouse, 

;he lantern of which is 55 feet above the 

sea level. Fort Morgan (formerly Fort 

Bower), and Fort James, opposite Dau- 

bhiu Island, mounting 69 guns sX the 

ime of the attack, command the entrance 

)f the hrrbor. Spanish Fort, and Fort 

Blakely, and Batteries Gladden, Tracy, 

'^fclntosh, and Huger are passed on the 

jivay up the Tensas River from Mobile to 

f ollard and Montgomery. Largo numbers 

f sailing vessels ply between Mobile and 

s^ew Orleans, the ports on the Gulf of 

exico, and the Atlantic coast. A daily 

ne of steamers run to New Orleans by 

of Lakes Bor'gne and Pontchartrain ; 

kewise up the Alabama River to Mont- 

:omery and other points. 

Mobile has many fine private residences, 

ut few buildings of a public character 

hich would interest the visitor. Cotton 

8 still king in Alabama ; and Moljile, as 

er chief city and commercial emporium, 

5 mainly devoted to the receipt, storage, 

ud shipment of this wonderful product. 



Government Street is the finest avenue 
and favorite promenade of the city. 
Public Square, between Dauphin and St. 
Francis Streets, is also a place of much 
resort. Both are adorned with live oaks 
and other shade-trees. The lofty dome 
of the Academy building, and the spires 
of the several church edifices on Govei-n- 
ment Street, afford a pleasing relief to the 
eye accustomed to dwell upon the dark- 
green foliage of the oak-trees which shade 
its whole length. The building at the in- 
tersection of Government with Dearborn 
Street, the property of Mr. Emanuel, is at 
present occupied as the headquarters of 
the District Commandant. The Custom 
House, at the corner of Royal and St. 
Francis Streets, is the most costly 
public edifice in the city. It is built 
of marble, and cost $250,000. The 
Theatre, Municipal Buildings, and Mar- 
kets are on Royal Street. The Battle 
House, the largest hotel in the city, pre- 
sents an imposing fa5ade of white marble, 
immediately facing the Custom House. 
The somewhat imposing ruin on the west 
side of Royal Street, nearly opposite the 
city market, marks the site of the Court 
House destroyed by fire during the war. 

Odd Fellows' Hall, on Royal Street, and 
Temperance Hall, corner of St. Michael 
and St. Joseph Streets, are conspicuous 
buildings. 

Among the religious and charitable insti- 
tutions of Mobile the most prominent are 
the Catholic Cathedral (Immaculate Con- 
ception), on Claiborne Street, between 
Dauphin and Conti Streets ; Christ 
Church (Episcopal), northwest corner of 
Church and St. Emanuel Streets ; First 
Presbyterian Church, northwest corner 
of Government and Jackson Streets ; and 
the Catholic Male and Female and Prot- 
estant Orphan Asylums, all situated 
within a short distance of the business 
portion of the city. Mobile possesses 
fourteen public schools, and a large num- 
ber of benevolent and other societies. 
Mobile College, on Government near Ann 
Street, is a flourishing institution. M. 
Saucier, at No. 96 Dauphin Street, exe- 
cutes excellent photographic views. 

Spring Hill is a pleasant suburb and re- 
treat six miles west of the city. The Roman 
Catholic College, commenced in 1832 un- 
der the direction of Bishop M. Porticr, is 
383 



Montgomery.] 



ALABAMA. 



[Seljia. 



located here. The former building was 
123 feet in length, surmounted by a tower. 
Two additions, each 126 feet in length, 
have since been added, making the entire 
length SYS feet. It contains a hbrary of 
nearly 8,000 volumes, and a valuable col- 
lection of instruments, etc. A statue of the 
Virgin Mary, brought from Toulouse, 
France, stands in the rear of the building. 
The institution is under the management 
of the Jesuits, and has accommodation for 
upwards of 200 students. It is reached 
by the St. Francis Street cars. 

The Gidf Shell road affords a pleasant 
drive. The city possesses several good 
restaurants ; that conducted by M. Ed. 
Denechaud, No. 17 Royal Street, immedi- 
ately west of the Custom House, is the 
best. The Battle House is the leading 
hotel, almost the only one worthy the 
name; a good hotel being among the 
many " wants " of the city. The City 
Baths are reached from Royal and Conti 
Streets. Trains leave Mobile daily over 
the Great Northern Railway for Mont- 
gomery, and over the Mobile and Ohio 
Railway for all points north and west. 
Daily steamers for New Orleans ; also for 
Montgomery, Columbus, and Aberdeen, 
Mississippi. 

Momtg'Oinery. — 197 miles, by rail, 
from Mobile ; 839 from Washington. 

Hotels. — The Exchange is a well-kept 
house, centrally located for business 
travel. Ihe Central has been enlarged 
and refurnished. 

Montgomery, the capital, and second 
city of Alabama in population and trade, 
is situated on the Alabama River, 400 
miles by water northeast of Mobile. It 
was laid out in 181*7, by Andrew Dexter, 
of Boston, and was formerly known as 
New Philadelphia. The State capital was 
moved here from Tuscaloosa, in 1847. 
It was named Montgomery after the la- 
mented General Richard Montgomery, 
who fell at Quebec. The original State 
House was destroyed by fire 14th Decem- 
ber, 1849, and the present structure 
erected in 1851, at a cost of about $75,- 
000. It occupies an elevated position on 
Capitol Hill, at the head of Market Street, 
four squares east of the Court Square, 
and though of small size, is an imposing 
structure. From the gallery of the dome, 
which surmounts the roof, an extended 
384 



view of the city and adjacent country is 
obtained. Considerable interest attaches 
to Montgomery as the capital of the Con- 
federate Government during four months 
commencing 4th February, 1861, and ter- 
minating with its final removal to Rich- 
mond, in May of the same year. The 
city has suffered severely by fire ; first, 
in December, 1838, and again on the oc- 
casion of the rebel evacuation of the 
town, 11th April, 1865, when the cotton 
warehouses, containing 80,000 bales of 
cotton, were destroyed. Seven days after- 
wards the arsenal, railway depots, and 
foundry were destroyed by Federal troops. 
Next the Capitol, the prominent buildings 
are the Episcopal, Baptist, and Presby- 
terian churches, Theatre building. Court 
House, and Exchange Hotel, besides sev- 
eral private residences. The city is lighted 
with gas, and supplied with good water 
from Artesian wells in the centre of the 
city. Population 10,000, and increasing. 
Two miles southeast of the city commen- 
ces what is known as the prairie region. 

Montgomery is connected directly by 
river and rail with Mobile and New Or- 
leans ; also by rail with Atlanta, Colum- 
bus, and all points north and east. The 
city is surrounded by a cordon of small 
earthworks, erected in 1864, and known 
as the defences of Montgomery. 

SelniJij in Dallas County, is located 
on the Alabama River, 70 miles below 
Montgomery. The Alabama and Tennessee 
River and Alabama and Mississippi River 
Railways meet at this point. It is reached 
from Montgomery by boat on the Alaba- 
ma River, the road not being in operation 
east of Selma. Population 6,000. 

©pelilia is in Russell County, at 
the intersection of the Montgomery and 
West Point and Columbus Branch Rail- 
ways. It is distant from Montgomery 65 
miles, from Atlanta 109 miles, and from 
Columbus 28 miles ; population 1,500. 
The Talladega Railway is graded 40 miles 
from this point. The Sledge House has 
accommodation for travellers. 

Tiascfflloosa. — Hotel, Mansion 
House. 

Tuscaloosa is upon the Black Warrior 
River, at the head of steamboat naviga-. 
tion, 125 miles by plank road from Mont- 
gomery. It is one of the principal towns 
of Alabama, and was once the capital. 



M 



Jb LORENCE. 



ALABAMA. 



[The Hill Kkgion. 



It is the seat of the University of Alaba- 
ma, established 1831. The University 
buildings are beautifully situated half a 
Imilc froni the river ; they are extensive, 
and cost $150,000. The State Lunatic 
lAsyluin and a United States Land Office 
fare located here also. Population about 
|4,000. The route from Tuscaloosa to 
ITuscambia is by stage. To New Lexing- 
ton, 24 ; Eldridge, 51 ; Thorn Hill, 73 ; 
jJRusselville, 103; Tuscumbia, 111 miles. 

'Tu.sciim'bia., on the Memphis and 
Charleston Eailway, 145 miles east of 
jMemphis, is a thriving town, one mile 
^outh of the Tennessee River. Steam- 
oats from Louisville and Cincinnati, on 
he Ohio, ascend the Tennessee River as 
"ar as Tuscumbia in good stages of water, 
ere is one of the largest and best springs 
f water in the State. 
Florence, five miles from Tuscuni- 
ia, is reached by a branch railway. It 
|s considered the head of navigation on 
he Tennessee River, although boats ply 
bove the Muscle Shoals. The fine bridge 
cross the river at this point, which cost 
150,000, was destroyed during the late 
The Muscle Shoals are an extensive 
evies of rapids. The descent of the water 
ere is 100 feet in the course of 20 miles, 
he neighborhood is a famous resort of 
ild ducks and geese, which come in 
reat flocks in search of the shell-fish, 
om which the rapids derive their name, 
oats cannot pass this part of the Ten- 
essee except at times of very high water. 
canal was once built around the shoals, 
ut it has been abandoned, and is falling 
to decay. 

Hiisitsville is a beautiful moun- 
lin tovm on the Memphis and Charleston 
ailway, 212 miles east of Memphis, and 
7 miles west of Chattanooga. It cou- 
lius a few handsome buildings, among 



lY 



which are the Court House, U. S. Land 
Office, Female Seminary, and Bank. From 
Tuscaloosa the route thither is by stage. 
To McRath's, 32 ; Jonesboro', 44 ; Elyton, 
56 ; Mount Pinson, 70 ; Blountsville, 96 ; 
Oleander, 120 ; Lacy Springs, 132 ; 
Whitesburg, 139 ; Huntsville, 149. 

The Hill Region. — The upper part of 
Alabama is picturesquely broken by the 
Alleghanies, which end their long journey 
hereabouts. In the northeast extremity 
of the State there are many fine land- 
scape passages. The Nickajach Cave en- 
ters the Raccoon Mountain a few miles 
above Chattanooga and the Lookout 
Mountain, Tennessee, and immediately 
finds its way into Georgia. A magnificent 
rocky arch of some eighty feet span forms 
the mouth of the cavern, high up in the 
mountain-side. This cave is said to have 
been the headquarters of the leader of a 
band of negroes. He was knawn by the 
name of "Nigger Jack," hence the 
name of the cave. The Natural Bridge, 
in Walker County, is thought by some 
travellers to be more curious than the 
celebrated scene of the same kind in 
Virginia. Mineral Springs abound in 
the upper part of Alabama. The Blount 
Springs, in Blount County, near the 
Black Warrior River, are much resorted 
to ; so also are the Bladen Springs, in 
Choctaw County, in the western part 
of the State, near the line of the Mobile 
and Ohio Railway. In Franklin County 
(see Tuscumbia) is a spring which dis- 
charges 20,000 cubic feet of water per 
minute. It forms a considerable brook, 
which enters the Tennessee 2^ miles be- 
low. There are valuable sulphur springs 
in Shelby and Talladega Counties. The 
route to the Shelby Springs is via Colam- 
biana, on the Alabama and Tennessee 
River Railway. 

385 



Mississippi.j 



MISSISSIPPI. 



[Mississippi. 



MISSISSIPPI. 



I 



Mississippi, like Alabama, was first 
visited by Europeans at the time (1541) 
when the Spanish expedition bore the 
banner of De Soto through the great 
belt of forest swamps which lie upon 
the Mexican Gulf, from the palm-covered 
plains of Florida on the east, to the far- 
off floods of the mighty " Father of Wa- 
ters," on the west. The enmity of the 
Indians and other obstacles prevented 
any permanent occupation of the new 
country at this period. In 1682 La Salle 
descended the Mississippi River, and vis- 
ited the territory now embraced in this 
State. Two years after, he set out again 
for the region, with a resolute band of 
colonists, but the venture failed before it 
was fairly begun, various misfortunes pre- 
venting his ever reaching his destination. 
Iberville, a Frenchman, made the third 
attempt at a settlement, but with no bet- 
ter success than his predecessors met 
with. A beginning was, however, at 
length accomplished by Bienville and a 
party of Frenchmen. This expedition 
settled in 1Y16 at Fort Rosalie, now the 
city of Natchez. A dozen years later 
(1728), a terrible massacre of the new- 
comers was made by their jealous Indian 
neighbors, which checked, but yet did not 
stay, the " course of empire." Other 
sanguinary conflicts with the aborigines 
took place in 1*735, '39, and '52, with the 
same final result — the defeat and devas- 
tation of the Indian tribes, and the tri- 
umph of the invading whites. The ter- 
ritory fell into the possession of the Brit- 
ish crown upon the conclusion of the 
peace of Paris, in 1763. The strength 
of the new colony was augmented about 
this period by portions of the dispersed 
Acadian communities of Nova Scotia ; 
and soon after by colonists from the New 
England territories, by way of the Mis- 
386 



sissippi and Ohio Rivers. In 1V98 the 
colony was organized as a Territory, Ala- 
bama forming a portion thereof. The 
history of Mississippi, as a State, began 
December 10, 1817. This State stands 
third in the order of secession from the 
United States. This event transpired 
January 9, 1861. 

Much of the area of Mississippi is occu- 
pied by swamp and marsh tracts. There is 
within her territory, between the mouth 
of the Yazoo River and Memphis, in Ten- 
nessee, a stretch of this description, cover- 
ing an area of nearly 7,000 square miles. 
It is sometimes a few miles broad, and 
sometimes not less than a hundred. These 
low portions of the State are subject to 
inundation at the time of freshets, and 
great is the cost and care necessary to 
protect them, as well as all the lands of a 
similar character lying along the Missis- 
sippi. Banks (levees) are built along the 
river shores to restrain the floods, but 
sometimes a breach (crevasse) occurs, re- 
sulting in gTcat damage to property, and 
no little risk to life. Where the country 
is not thus occupied by swampy or 
marshy stretches, it sweeps away in 
broad table-lands, shaped into grand te^ 
races, or steps, descending from the east- 
ward to the waters of the river. The 
steps are formed by two ranges of bluffs, 
which sometimes extend to the river 
shores, and rise abruptly in precipices of 
fifty and even a hundred feet perpendicu- 
lar height. These blufis are features of 
great and novel attraction to the voyager 
on the Mississippi River. The climate of 
Mississippi has the same general charac- 
teristics as the other Southern States, 
passing from the temperatures of the 
torrid zone, southward, to more tempc^ 
ate airs above ; unlike Alabama, however, 
and the Southeastern States of Georgia 



i 



ElTBRS.] 



MISSISSIPPI. 



[Jackson. 



and Carolina, it has no bold mountain 
lands within its area. The winters here 
and in the neighboring State of Louisiana 
have a temperature a few degrees lower 
than that of the same latitudes near 
the Atlantic. The fig and the orange 
grow well in the lower part of the State, 
and the apple flourishes in the higher 
hilly regions. Cotton is the great staple 
of Mississippi, the State being the third 
in the Union in this product. The soil is 
well adapted to the growth of Indian corn, 
tobacco, hemp, flax, silk, and all species 
of grains and grasses. Live stock is also 
raised to a considerable extent. Missis- 
sippi has no very extensive mineral prod- 
ucts ; or, if she has, they have not as 
yet been developed. Some gold has been 
found, but in no important quantity. 
Most of the water courses here are tribu- 
taries of the Mississippi. They run chieriy 
in a southwest direction, following the 
general slope of the country. Some lesser 
waters, in the eastern sections, find their 
way to the Gulf of Mexico, as tributaries 
of the Pearl River, in the centre of the 
State, and of the Tombigbee and Pasca- 
goula, in Eastern Mississippi and Western 
Alabama. The Yazoo and the Big Black 
Rivers drain the northwest portion of the 
State, and are the largest tributaries of 
the Mississippi from this State. Among 
the principal resorts for tourists are Coop- 
er's Wells, in Hinds County, 12 miles 
west of Jackson, and Lauderdale Springs, 
miles north of Meridian, both of 
svhich have valuable medicinal properties. 
The State is divided into sixty counties. 
Vicksburg, Natchez, Columbus, and Jack- 
on are the largest towns. The white 
copulation before the war amounted to 
J53,899. 



Rivers. — The Yazoo River is formed by 
he Tallahatchee and Yallabusha Rivers, 
vhich unite at Leflore, in Carroll County, 
t is a deep and narrow stream, and slug- 
gish in its movements. It is nearly three 
lundred miles in length, exclusive of its 
I (ranches, and is navigable for steamboats 
a all its course, and at all seasons, from 
ts mouth to its sources. Its way leads 
hrough great alluvial plains of extreme 
ertility, covered everywhere by luxuriant 
otton-fields. Vicksburg is twelve miles be- 
3w the union of the Yazoo with the Missis- 



sippi. The Tallahatchee, the largest branch 
of the Yazoo, has a length almost as great 
as that river, 100 miles of which may 
be traversed by steamers. The JBig Black 
River is some 200 miles long. Its course 
is much the same as that of the Yazoo, 
as also the character of the country which 
it traverses. The Pearl River pursues a 
devious course from the northeast part 
of the State, 250 miles, to Lake Borgne, 
and thence to the Gulf of Mexico. Jack- 
son, the capital of the State, is upon the 
Pearl River, southwest of the central re- 
gion. Small boats sometimes ascend the 
river as far as this place, though the nav- 
igation is almost destroyed by the ac- 
cumulation of sand-bars and drift-wood. 

Railways. — The Mobile and Ohio Rail- 
loay extends first along the western edge 
of Alabama, and afterwards near the 
eastern line of Mississippi, northward 
from the city of Mobile, Alabama, through 
Meridian, Okolona, Corinth, and Jackson, 
Tennessee, 472 miles to Columbus, Ken- 
tucky. The Southern Mississippi extends 
at present eastward from Jackson, the 
capital of the State, 96 miles to Meridian, 
and westward 44|^ miles to Vicksburg. 
The Mississippi and Tennessee extends 
southward from Memphis 99 miles to 
Granada, from whence it is continued by 
the Mississippi Central, and the New Or- 
leans, Jackson, and Great Northern road 
to New Orleans. The Mississippi Central 
Railway, from Jackson, Tennessee, 23*7 
miles, south to Canton, Mississippi. At 
Jackson it meets the Mobile and Ohio 
road north from Mobile, and at Canton it 
is continued southward by the New Or- 
leans and Great Northern Railway to 
New Orleans. The New Orleans, Jackson, 
and Great Northern Railway, from New 
Orleans 206 miles north to Canton, Mis- 
sissippi, and thence by the Mississippi 
Central and connections north and east. 

4iirei&a,«io.. — Hotel, SIienHe House. 
This town is pleasantly situated at the 
head of steamboat navigation on the 
Yallabusha River. It is 100 miles south 
of Memphis. The Mississippi and Ten- 
nessee and the Mississippi Central Rail- 
ways unite here. Population, 2,000. 

•f a. c l£ s o ML. — Hotel, JBoioman 
House. Jackson, the capital of Mississippi, 
is upon the Pearl River, southwest of the 
387 



Natchez.] 



MISSISSIPPI. 



[Holly Springs 



centre of the State. It is connected by 
railway, 44J miles, with Vicksburg, on 
the Mississippi River. The Southern 
Mississippi road extends 95 miles east of 
Jackson, to Meridian. The State Capitol, 
Executive Mansion, the Penitentiary, 
Lunatic Asylum, and a United States 
Land Office, are the most prominent 
buildings. Population, about 6,000. 
Cooper' & Well, 12 miles west of Jackson, 
is noted for its mineral waters. 

Hatclaez. — Hotel, Mansion House. 
Natchez, on the Mississippi River, 279 
miles ataove New Orleans, is the most 
populous and commercial city in the 
State. It ia built upon a bluff, 200 feet 
above the water, overlooking the great 
cypress swamps of Louisiana. The lower 
part of the town, where the heavy ship- 
ping business is done, is called Natchez- 
under-the-Hill. In Seltzertown, near Nat- 
chez, there is a remarkable group of 
ancient mounds, one of which is 35 feet 
high. Smaller remains of the kind are 
found yet nearer the town. The broken 
and varied character of the country about 
Natchez is in most agreeable contrast 
with the flat lands on the opposite side of 
the river. The streets are wide and regu- 
lar, and, to a great extent, elegantly built. 
The public edifices are well constructed, 
and the private mansions are pleasant- 
ly surrounded with trees and gardens. 
The town is the centre of an extensive 
trade, continually upon the increase. The 
Court House, Orphan Asylum, and Ma- 
sonic Hall, are fine buildings. Steamers 
ply daily between this and all points on 
the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. 

CaiitOM, 206 miles north of New 
Orleans, 18V south of Memphis, is a 
thriving place. It is the county seat of 
Madison County. Pearce House. 

Vicl4:sl»M.]rg". — Hotel, Prentiss 
House. 

Vicksburg is upon the Mississippi, 400 
miles above New Orleans, and 44-^ miles 
from Jackson, the capital of the State. 
Population, about 4,000. The site is 
elevated and commands a fine view of the 
Mississippi River. Next to Natchez, it is 
the most thriving commercial point be- 
tween New Orleans and Memphis. West- 
ward it has railroad communications by 



means of the Vicksburg, Shreveport, and 
Texas Railway. The city was captured 
from the rebels, after a protracted siege, 
by General Grant, July 4, 1863. 

Molly SpriMg-s, 188 miles north 
of Jackson, and 25 miles north of Grand 
Junction, is a beautiful village, distiii- 
guished not less for the excellence of its 
schools than for the hospitality of its 
inhabitants. The Chalmers Institute 
and St. Thomas' Hall for boys, the Frank- 
lin Female College, and the Holly Springs 
Female Institute, are among the most 
conspicuous institutions. Being on the 
main through line of travel between New 
Oi'leans and the North, and near the line 
of the Memphis and Charleston Railway 
(Grand Junction), it is a most advanta- 
geous point for tourists to stay and make 
up their routes. The vicinity abounds 
in attractive scenery and pleasant drives. 
It was the scene of active operations 
during the late war. The city was occu- 
pied by Union troops from General Hal- 
leck's army, June 17, 1862. On the 20th 
December, the post, under the command 
of Colonel Murphy, surrendered to Gen- 
eral Van Dorn, of the rebel army. The 
Lauderdale Springs, sulphur and chalyb- 
eate, are in Lauderdale County, near the 
line of the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 18 
miles north of Meridian. The State Or- 
phan Home, for the support and education 
of the poor children of deceased Confed- 
erate soldiers, in course of erection, is 
situated on the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 
18 miles above Meridian. 

CoItomiIjtuis is on the left bank of 
the Tombigbee River, 60 miles south of 
Aberdeen, and 145 miles northeast of 
Jackson. Regular steamboat communi- 
cation with Mobile. Population 3,500. 
A branch railway extends southwest to 
Artesia, on the Mobile and Ohio Railway, 
219 miles north of Mobile. 

Aluersleem, a town of some 4,000 
inhabitants, is upon the Tombigbee River, . 
165 miles northeast of Jackson, 60 north 
of Columbus, and 470 from Mobile, by 
water. Steamboats ply regularly from 
Mobile. It is reached from the Mobile 
and Ohio Railway Junction via Gainesville, 
8 miles distant. 



[Louisiana.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[LouiaiAJSA 



LOUISI AS"A. 



I Louisiana is one of the most interest- 

In"- States in the Union, not only on ac- 

jount of the romantic incidents of its 

avly history, but for the peculiar features 

f its landscape, and its unique social 

haracter and life. 

The traveller, looking upon the face of 
lie Great River, will recall the bright 
liopes of De Soto, when he, too, so gazed 
ith delighted wonder ; then he will muse 
pon that hapless destiny which gave the 
allant explorer a grave beneath the very 
loods which he was the first to find and 
■nter, with such exultant anticipations, 
'hen he will i-emember the visit of La 
Salle to the mouth of the river, in 1691 — 
text, the attempted settlement, in 1699, 
nder the brave lead of Iberville; then 
omes the enterprise of Crozart, to whom 
country was granted by Louis XIV., 
1712 ; next comes its history from 
111, while ia possession of the famous 
reuch financier John Law, and his com- 
any of rash speculators, with all the in- 
dents of the story of the brilliant but 
eeting " Mississippi Bubble ; " next the 
storation of the territory to the French 
rown, its trausfer to Spain in 1*762, its 
btrocession to France in 1800, and its 
nal acquisition by the United States in 
|803, when this Government purchased it 
r $11,500,000, and the further payment 
certain claims of American citizens 
ainst the Government of France. Of 
e history of this State in its participa- 
on in our national ti'ials, and especially 
the memL'able event of the battle of 
w Orleans] and its still more recent oc- 
ipation by the Federal forces under 
■11. fiutler, we sliall speakjfoy and by 
Louisiana in no part of its territory 
■Mches a gi'eater elevation. than 200 feet 
)Ove the level of the Gu'lf of Mexico, 
Ihile very much of the Southern region 



is so law that it becomes inundated at 
high water. Marshes extend from the 
coast; next come the low prairie lands 
which approach the central parts of the 
State ; above, the country west of the 
basin of the Mississippi grows broken and 
hilly. In the extreme northwest is a 
marshy tract of fifty miles in length and 
six in breadth, full of small lakes, made 
by the interlacings of the arms of Red 
River. It is estimated that an area of 
between eight and nine thousand square 
miles-, lying respectively ujjon the Missis- 
sippi and Red Rivers, is subject to' inun- 
dation annually. 

About three-fifths of the whole area of 
the State is alluvial and diluvial ; the rest 
is occupied by the tei'tiary formation, and 
contains coal and iron, ochre, salt, gyp- 
sum, and marl. In the vicinity of Har- 
risonburg, near the northeastern line of 
the State, and among the freestone hills 
which rise hereabouts precipitously to a 
height of eighty and one hundred feet, 
large quartz crystals have been found, 
and quantities of jasper, agates, corne- 
lians, sardonyx, onyx, feldspar, crystal- 
ized gypsum, alumine, chalcedony, lava, 
meteoric stones, and fossils. 

The exhalations from the marshes in 
the long, hot summers affect the atmos- 
phere, and make these districts not only 
unapproachable to strangers, but danger- 
ous to the acclimated, at the season when 
the especial features of the landscape may 
be seen in their greatest glory. 

Cotton and sugar-cane are the great 
products of this State. Of the latter sta- 
ple, it yielded in 1850 nine-tenths of the 
whole supply raised in the United States. 
The most pi-oductive district of the State 
is a belt of land called the " Coast," lying 
up and down the Mississippi in the neigh- 
borhood of New Orleans. It consists of 
389 



Nkw Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New ORLEAVg, 



that part of the bottom, or alhivion, of 
the Mississippi, which commences with 
the first cultivation above the Balize, 
about forty miles below the capital, and 
extends about one hundred and fifty miles 
above it. 

This belt on each side of the river is 
secured from overflow by an embankment 
called the " levee." We shall have occa- 
sion to speak of it iu our explorations 
through the city. 

The bays and lakes, formed by expan- 
sions of the rivers in the marsh lands 
near the coast, make a marked feature 
in the landscape of Louisiana, as Lakes 
Pontchartrain, Borgne, Maurepas, etc. 
Some of these waters we shall recur to 
again when we reach New Orleans. 

Except the Mississippi and the Red 
Rivers, of which the reader will find ac- 
counts elsewhere in our volume, the 
streams in Louisiana do not offer very 
great attractions to the traveller. 



NEW ORLEANS. 

. 1,653 miles from New York ; 1,435 from 
Washington. 

New Orleans, the metropolis of the 
Southwest, is built within a great bend of 
the Mississippi River (whence its familiar 
name of the Crescent City), ninety-four 
miles from its debouchure into the Gulf of 
Mexico, in latitude 29"57' north, longitude 
90' 8' west. It was named in honor of the 
Duke of Orleans, Regent of France during 
the minority of Louis XV. It was the 
place selected for the seat of the mon- 
archy meditated in the treason of Aaron 
Burr. Great was the alarm of the citi- 
zens in January, 1804, at that prospective 
insurrection. 

It is built on land gently descending 
from the river toward a marshy gi-ound 
in the rear, and, from two to four feet be- 
low the level of the river at high-water 
mark. It is prevented from overflowing 
the . city by an embanliment of earth, 
termed the Levee, which is substantially 
constructed, for a great distance along 
the banks of the river. This levee is fif- 
teen feet wide and four feet high, and 
forms a delightful promenade during the 
fall and winter months. It is accessible 
390 



at all times by vessels of the largest de- 
scription coming from the ocean, and its 
advantages of communication with the 
upper country, and the whole valley of 
the Mississippi, are at once stupendous 
and unrivalled. The site was selected by 
Gov. Bienville in 1*718, against much op- 
position, the site having previously been 
at Biloxi. It was abandoned in 1*719, a 
rise in the Mississippi having inundated 
it. It was again selected by Delormc in 1 
1*722 as the principal post in the province. > 
It then consisted of about one hundred 
cabins, and contained a population of • 
nearly two hundred and fifty. Louisiana < 
was ceded to the TTnited States in 180.3, 
after which date the population of New 
Orleaus rapidly increased. In 1810 it 
amounted to 24,552, having trebled in i 
seven years under the administration of 
its new government. 

We append a tabular statement, show- 
ing the growth of population since that 
time : 

1S15 82,947 1880 49,826 

1820 41,850 1.S40 102,191 

1825 45,886 1850 160,000 „ • 

1860 187,000 . II'' 

This levee has been frequently broken 
through by the river. In May, 1816, a 
crevasse occurred about nine miles above • 
New Orleaus, which destroyed several 
plantations and inundated the rear of the i 
city to the depth of several feet : again in 
June, 1844, and last in 1855. The dyke 
or levee has been strengthened, and is 
now believed to be strong enough to resist 
further encroaclmieut. 

This city is the chief cotton mart of < 
the world. Not unfrequently from a 
thousand to fifteen hundred steamers and 
flatboats may be seen lying at the Levee, 
that have floated down the stream hun- 
dreds of miles with the rich produce of 
the interior country. Steamboats of the 
largest class may be observed arriving 
and departing almost hourly ; and, except 
in the summer months, at its whaiTes 
may be seen hundreds of ships and other 
sailing craft from all quarters of the! 
globe, landing the productions of other 
climes, and neceiving cargoes of cotton, 
sugar, tobacco, lumber, provisions, etc. 
Indeed, nothing can present a more busy, 
bustling scene than exists here in the 
loading end unloading of vessels and 



New Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Oe leans. 



[steamers, with hundreds of drays trans- 
porting the various and immense prod- 
ucts which come hither from the West. 

The receipts and exports of cotton 
from New Orleans exceeded in the years 
1859-60 two milUons and a quarter of 
(bales, the value of which exceeded one 
hundred milhons of dollars. Besides cot- 
ton, a vast amount of other products, as 
sugar, tobacco, flour, pork, etc., are re- 
ceived at New Orleans, and thence sent 
abroad. The total value of these prod- 
ucts for the year ending Sept. 1, 1859, 
amounted to $172,952,664. Besides its 
Exports, New Orleans has a large import 
trade of coffee, salt, sugar, iron, dry- 
goods, hquors, etc., the yearly value of 
svhich exceeds $17,000,000. 
The ordinance of secession was passed 
y the State Legislature Jan. 26, 1861. 
n April of the following year Forts 
ackson and St. Phihp were successfully 
assed by Eear-Admiral Farragut, who 
rrived before the city on the 29 th of the 
ame month. On the 1st of May, 1862, 
teneral B. F. Butler landed and took 
ossession of the city. 
Hotels. — The St. Charles, bounded by 
t. Charles, Gravier, and Common Streets, 
s one of the institutions of New Orleans, 
estroyed by fire in 1850, it was re- 
mit by the close of 1852 at a cost of 
^600,000. Its predecessor, the old St. 
harles, was long regarded as the pride 
if New Orleans. The present structure 
accommodation for nearly 1,000 
ests. 0. E. Hall proprietor. 
The St. Louis, formex-ly knowa as the 
City Exchange, ia located on St. Louis 
t)etween Royal and Chartres, in the French 
Quarter of the city. It was reopened 
fanuary 10, 1866, with new furniture, 
ifter being closed nearly four years, and 
js now in the full tide of business again. 
it holds the same high rank as the St. 
pharlcs, and is under the same proprietor- 
ihip. 

The St. James, Magazine Street be- 
iween Gravier and Natchez, occupies the 
lite of the old " Banks' Arcade," a place 
)f great public resort previous to 1858. 
t has been recently repainted and fur- 
lished, and has accommodation for 400 
fersons. 
The Oily Hotel, corner of Camp and 
ommon Streets, is much frequented by 



up-river merchants and steamboat meii- 
The rates of fare at the St. Charles and. 
St. Louis are $5 per day ; at the St. 
James and City $4. 

Places op Amusement — Theatres, 
ETC. — New Orleans is well supplied with 
public amusements, these being esteemed 
as among the first of human necessities. 
The Opera House, corner of Bourbon 
and Toulouse Streets, erected in 1859, is 
an imposing edifice. It has seats for 
two thousand, and is fitted up in the 
style of the Theatre Franyaise, Paris. 

The St. Charles, on St. Charles be- 
tween Poydras and Perdido Streets, 
occupies the site of the former St. 
Chai'les, destroyed by fire in 1842. Ben. 
De Bar lessee. 

Academy of Music, St. Charles be- 
tween Perdido and Commercial Streets, 
built in 1853. Performances day and 
night. Spalding & Bidwell proprietors. 

Varieties, Gravier between Carondolet 
and Baronne Streets. 

Orleaiis Theatre, corner of Orleans 
and Bourbon Streets. This is the oldest 
" Temple of the Drama" in the city, if 
not in the South. It was opened in No- 
vember, 1819. The performances are in 
the French language. It is frequently 
used, together with the adjoining build- 
ing, for balls, parties, etc. 

The American, burnt July 30, 1842 ; 
rebuilt and reopened December 5, 1843, 
and again destroyed by fire in 1854 ; has 
not been rebuilt. It occupied a central 
site on Poydras Street near Lafayette 
Square, now covered by an ornamental 
cast-iron building intended for business 
purposes. 

Public Buildings. — The Custom House, 
Canal Street near the Levee. This noble 
structure is built of Quincy granite 
brought from the celebrated quarries of 
Massachusetts. Next to the National 
Capitol at Washington, it is the largest 
building in the United States. It covers 
an area of 8*7,333 superficial feet. Its 
main front, on Canal Street, is 334 feet ; 
that on Custom House Street, 252 feet ; 
on the new Levee, 310 feet, and on the 
old Levee, 297 feet. Its height is 82 
feet. The long-room, or chief business 
apartment, is 116 feet by 90 feet, and is 
lighted by 50 windows. Commenced in 
1848, the erection of this unmense struo- 
391 



New Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Orlkaxs 



ture was steadily prosecuted througli four 
successive administrations until the out- 
break of the Rebellion, when work was 
necessarily suspended. The building, it 
is much to be regretted, has suffered se- 
verely from the weather and the various 
uses to which it has been put. A tem- 
porally roof has been lately added at a 
cost of $25,000; but far from affording 
adequate protection, it seems rather to 
have proved a source of injury than oth- 
erwise. 

The basement of this building is ap- 
propriated to the uses of the Post Office, 
but being both dark and damp it is ill- 
suited for such a purpose. The offices 
of the Postmaster and Special Agent and 
their deputies are on the right and left 
of the Canal Street entrance. The long 
corridors which surround the main apart- 
ment in the second story, afford access to 
the offices of the Collector and Surveyor 
of the Port, the Collector and Assessor 
of Internal Revenue, U. S. Marshal, and 
other Government officers. The United 
States courts are also located in this 
biiUding. It is noteworthy rather for its 
immense size and the important interest 
it represents than for any attraction of 
its own. 

The Mini ( U. S. branch). The build- 
ing formerly used for coining the public 
moneys in New Orleans, and etill known 
as the Mint, is situated on what was 
once called Jackson Square, near the 
former site of Fort St. Charles, now 
known as the corner of Esplanade and 
New Levee Streets. It is built of brick, 
stuccoed in imitation of brownstone, in 
the Ionic style of architecture, and being 
282 feet in length, 108 feet deep, 
and three stories high, presents an im- 
posing appearance. It was begun in 
1885 and finished in 183'7, at a cost of 
$182,000. A visit to the coin room will 
repay the stranger. On the 25th Janua- 
ry, 1861, upwards of three quarters of a 
million dollars were taken from this room 
by a committee of citizens headed by 
Governor Roman. The Superintendent, 
M. F. Bonzano, succeeded in destroying 
the dies, and thus saved the Government 
and the country from the issue of spurious 
money. The window from which the 
flagstaff projected on which the rebel 
Muniford was hung by order of General 
392 



Butler, June 1, 1862, is still pointed out. 
It is under the front portico of the main 
building, and will always be sm object of 
interest. 

The City Hall, at the intersection of 
St. Charles and Lafayette (formerly He- 
via) Streets, fronting 90 feet on the former 
and 208 feet on the latter, is a handsome 
marble structure in the Grecian Ionic 
style of architecture. The municipal 
hall was formerly located on the upper 
side of the cathedral in Jackson Square, 
but that building being insufficient for 
the rapidly increasing business of the' 
city, the present structure was erected 
and finished in 1850, since which time it 
has been occupied for city purposes. 
Here are located the Mayor's office, the 
bureaus of " Finance" and " Streets and 
Landings," the offices of the Treasurer, 
Comptroller, Street Commissioner, Regis- ! 
ter, etc. It also serves at present as the 
official headquarters of the Governor and 
Secretary of State. Lyceum Hall, in the 
second story of this building, is a com- 
modious apartment, 61 by 84 feet, well 
adapted for the purpose intended. The 
State and city libraries occupy suitable 
rooms in the building. (See Libraries.) 
The grand entrance from St. Charles i 
Street is by a flight of steps 18 in number, 
of Quincy granite, of which material the ! 
basement is constructed. Cost, .$120,000. n 

Odd Felloios' Hall, a solid square edi- 
fice on the corner of Camp and Lafayette 
Streets, and immediately facing the upper 
corner of the square. It is four stories 
high, built of brick, stuccoed and painted 
white, and cost $210,000. The base- 
ment is occupied by stores. On the sec- 
ond, or main, floor is the concert hall, 
the finest in the South. It is 132 by 56 
feet and 35 feet high, and lighted by 
three large chandeliers. The upper sto- 
ries are used by the several lodges of 
Masons and Odd Fellows. 

The Masonic Hall, on St. Charles 
Street, at its intersection with Perdido, is 
an imposing edifice, fronting 103 feet on 
the former and extending back 100 feet 
on the latter street. It was designed 
and built by Gallier, a local architect of 
considerable repute, in 1845, and cost, 
including the land, $90,000. 

The Merchants' Exchange, on Royal, 
south of Canal Street, was formerly a 



JNew Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Orleans. 



jjlace of great resort. Since the removal 
of the Post Office to the Custom House 
building, its glory has departed, and it 
exists now in little more than name. It 
(vas erected in 1835, from designs by 
.akin, is composed of marble, and cost 
^100,000. 

Charitable Institutions. — There is 
robably no city in the United States 
hich contains so many benevolent in- 
titutions, in proportion to its popula- 
ion, as New Orleans. Among the most 
)roiiuncnt are the hospitals and male and 
female orphan asylums. 

The United States Marine Honpital, a 

sommodious brick edifice, corner Com- 

on and Broad Streets, in the rear of 

|he city proper, and easily reached by 

treet cars on Canal Street. The hospital 

uilding was formerly located in Mac- 

onough, opposite the city. It occupied 

whole square, measuring 350 feet each 

ray. It was three stories high, built in 

he Gothic style, from designs by Mondale 

nd Reynolds. It was commenced in 

834, extended in 1844, and was used 

)r hospital purposes up to the breaking 

ut of tlie war, wheu,ilike many other 

overnment buildings, it suffered at the 

ands of its enemies. It was used as a 

owder magazine by the Confederate 

tithoritics, and by them blo\vn up. 

raong the objects of interest in New 

rleans, especially worthy of notice, is — 

The Charily Hospital^ on Common 

treet, between St. Mary's and Gironde. 

i is conspicuous, not more for its great 

than for the air of neatness ,and 

)mfort which prevails in and around it. 

tie first hospital for indigent persons es- 

blished in the city appears to have 

ood on Rampart, near Toulouse Street. 

was constructed of wood, and was 

own down in lYtO. Another, built of 

■ick, and completed in 1*786, at a cost 

' $114,000, was entirely consumed by 

•e in 1810. Tlie present fine edifice was 

jeeted 1812-14, at an expense of 

50,000. The attendant medical fac- 

ty are among the ablest in the city and 

ate. It has accommodation for 450 

tients. 

The ruins of the Town Ahns Hovse oc- 
py a prominent locale on the Levee, in 
p south end of the city. This building 
is occupied during the war as a hospi- 



tal, and afterwards by colored troops as 
a barracks. It was destroyed by fire 
September 1st, 1865. 

Among the prominent charities of the 
city are, the Asylum of St. Elizabeth, cor- 
ner of Magazine and Josephine Streets, and 
the liaison de Sante, corner of Canal and 
Claiborne Streets. Lady visitors especially 
ought to see the interior of the former 
institution. It is a very model of neat- 
ness and good order. It was erected in 
1853, and is under the charge of Supe- 
rior Angelica and fourteen sisters. 

The Female Orphan Asylum, at the 
intersection of Camp and Prytania Streets, 
has accommodation for 160 children. It 
was commenced in 1836, and finished in 
1840, at a cost of $42,000, of which 
nearly one-half was the result of private 
subscription. The land was donated by 
Madame Poucher and her brother, Francis 
Soulet. 

The .Poydras Female Orphan Asylum,, 
on Julia Street, founded ISl*?, and the 
Male Orphan Asylum, in the adjoining 
parish of Lafayette, are both flourishing 
institutions. There are several other 
noble charities in the city. Admission 
by application to the Superior or Superin- 
tendent in charge. 

The Workhouses of the second and 
third municipalities are worthy a visit 
from those interested in moral and social 
reform, especially of youth. The former 
was built in 1841 ; the latter, which 
stands on Moreau Street, near Piety, the 
site of the old Washington Market, was 
erected years later. Many of these insti- 
tutions have been recently consolidated, 
and located at the foot of Girod Street. 

The City Prisons, which comprise a 
parish jail and a police jail, are on Or- 
leans and Ann Streets, opposite the market 
place, main entrance on Orleans Street. 
They are three stories in height, built of 
brick, and plastered to imitate granite. 
The building is surmounted by a bclvi- 
dere, with an alarm bell. 

The Court-houses are on the right and 
left of the cathedral on Jackson Square. 
They were constructed toward the close 
of the last century, through the liberality 
of the founder of the cathedral, Don 
Andre Almonaster, and are conspicuous 
for their style of architecture, which ia 
Tusco-Doric. 

393 



New Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Orlkans. 



Churches. — The city contains many 
large, but few elegant, church edifices. 
Among the religious denominations, as 
might be expected, in a community so 
largely composed of French, the Roman 
Catholic largely predominates. There are 
upwards of fifty church edifices, about 
one-half of which are Roman Catholic. 
Of these, the Cathedral of St. Lovis is 
the most noteworthy. It stands on Char- 
tres Street, on the east side of the Place 
d^ Amies (Jackson Square), and arrests 
the attention of the stranger by its vener- 
able and antique appearance. It lays no 
claim to architectural display, though 
there are few church edifices in the Union 
at once so imposing and impressive. 
The foundation was laid in 1*792, and the 
building completed in 1794, by Don Andre 
Almonaster, perpetual regidor, and Alva- 
rez Real, of the province. It was altered 
and enlarged, in 1850, from designs by 
De Louilly. This building is almost in- 
separably connected with the memory of 
the venerable Pfere Antonio De Sedella 
(Father Antonio), curate of the parish 
for nearly fifty years, Avho died in 1829, 
and whose remains are interred here. 
The paintings on the roof of the building 
are by Canova and Rossi, and are fine 
specimens of art. In the square in front 
of this cathedral General Jackson re- 
viewed his troops (December 18th, 1814), 
prior to his victory over the Britisli. 

The Church of the Immaculate Con- 
ception (Jesuit), comer of Baronne and 
Common Streets, is a striking edifice, in 
the Moorish style of architecture. It 
was commenced in 1852, and opened for 
worship by Pere Canbiaso in IBS'/. One 
hundred and seventy thousand dollars 
have been expended in its construction, 
and the towers are still wanting to com- 
plete it. High mass, both here and at 
the cathedral, at 10 o'clock every Sun- 
day. 

The Presbyterian Church, fronting on 
Lafayette Square, in the Greco-Doric 
style, is a fine edifice, much admired for 
its elegant steeple. It was built in 1835 
at a cost of |)55,000. It was enlarged in 
1844, and has sittings for 1,000. 

St. Patrick's, on Camp Street, north of 
Lafayette Square, is a fine Gothic struc- 
ture, with a tower 190 feet high. The 
style is said to have been taken from the 
394 



famous minster at York, England, agree- 
ably to the designs of the Messrs. Dakin. 
The cost was about $100,000. 

Among the Episcopal church edifices, 
Chrisfs, corner of Canal and Rampart 
Streets, and Annunciation, overlooking 
Annunciation Square, are the most promi- 
nent. 

The Unitarian Church, corner of St. 
Charles and Julia, St. Alphonso, on Con- 
stance, and St. Mary's, on Josephine 
Street, are new and elegant buildinj^s. 
The two last named are Roman Catholic. 

One of the most interesting relics of 
the early church history of New Orleans 
is the old Ursuline Convent and Chapel 
on Conde Street. This building, of a 
quaint style of architecture, was erected, 
according to a Spanish inscription on a 
marble tablet, in the middle of the fa9ade 
in 1*787, during the reign of Carlos III., 
by Don Andre Almonaster. It is now 
occupied and known as the Bishop's 
Palace. 

St. Anioine!s Chapel, at the corner of 
Rampart and Conti Streets, was erected 
in 1826. It is generally known as the 
Mortuary Chapel, all funeral ceremonies of 
resident Catholics being performed here. 

Colleges, Schools, etc. — The Univer- 
sity of Louisiana is on Common Street, 
near Baronne, and occupies the whole 
front of the block. It has a prosperous 
law school and a medical school. This 
university was organized in 1849. The 
medical college, which stands in the 
centre of the block, has a fa9ade of 100 
feet.. This department was established 
in 1835. It has a large anatomical 
museum, and extensive and valuable col- 
lections of many kinds. The State made 
an appropriation of $25,000 toward the 
purchase of apparatus, drawings, plates, 
etc., illustrative of the various branches 
of medical study. The college had, m 
the year 1859, no less than 400 students. 
There is also a school of medicine, num- 
bering 200 students. Built 1836. 

The public school system of New Orleans 
embraces four high schools and thirty-eight 
primary and intermediate district schools 
for the youth of both sexes, distributed 
in every part of the city. There are also 
eighteen schools for colored children, 
under charge of the Board of Education 
for Freedmen, established March 22, 1864 



I 



New Obleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Orleans. 



For location of schools, number of 
gcholars, names of teachers, and other 
information respecting the school system 
of the city, the reader is referred to local 
directories and reports of the respective 
boards. 

One of the most attractive public 
places of literary resort, and the only one 
2ombinin<^ the essential features of a 
laews reading-room and exchange, are the 
[Mei-chants' Reading Booms, conducted by 
E. E. Overall, corner of St. Charles 
,nd Commercial Alley. Files of the 
[orincipal American and European jour- 
pals are kept. A chess-room is attached. 
stranger in New Orleans should omit 
;; to Overall's. 



Parks, Squares, etc. — Like most 
southern cities. New Orleans is dotted 
ver with numerous squares with shade 
rees and gravel walks, where the lounger 
ir pedestrian, wearied with his journey- 
ags, may draw aside for retirement and 
est. Since the introduction of street 
ailroads, these public squares are less 
esorted to than in former years, when 
hey formed the most attractive feature 
|f the place. 

The JVcw City Park, the largest of 
' ese enclosures, and the only one having 
ny claims to be considered a " park," is 
ear the northeasterly boundary of the 
"ty, in the neighborhood of Metarie Road 

d Monroe Avenue. It embraces 55 
ty squares, an area equal to about 150 
cres, and is tastefully laid out. Access 
y the Canal Street and Ridge Road cars, 
•om the Monument. 

Jackson Square, formerly known as the 
lace d'Armes, covers the centre of the 
ver-front of the Old Town Plot, now 
le Pirst District. It is a place of favor- 

! resort. Its sliell-strewn paths, its 

autiful trees and shrubbery, afford an 
^reeable relief to the dust and din of the 
isy levee and markets. The imposing 
ont of the cathedral and courts of justice 

i seen to great advantage from the 

er entrance of the square. The eques- 
lian statue of Gen. Jackson, by MiUs, 
lands in the centre. A similar statue 

placed in Lafayette Square, in the rear 

the White House at Washington. 

Lafayette Square, in the Second Dis- 
Ict, bounded by St. Charles and Camp 
reets, is another handsome souare. The 



fine marble front of the City Hall, the 
tapering spire of the Presbyterian 
Church, and the massive-looking fa5ade 
of the Odd Fellows' Hall, present a strik- 
ing appearance. 

To the visitor and stroUer in the west 
end. Annunciation Square and Tivoli 
Circle, at the head of St. Charles Street, 
are worthy a visit. The former has a 
few tastefully built private residences in 
its immediate neighborhood. 

Circus Place ( Congo Square), on Ram- 
part Street, between St. Ann and St. 
Peter. Like other public grounds in the 
city, it is a delightful place to lounge 
away a summer evening. It was former- 
ly known as Congo Park, and is the 
place where the negroes, in the "good 
old times before the war," were accus- 
tomed to congregate and go through the 
double shuffle to the favorite air of " Old 
Virginia never tire." Being in the color- 
ed district, it is still much frequented by 
them, but the dancing has given place to 
other pleasures less harmless and at- 
tractive. 

Washington Square, in the neighbor- 
hood of the Elysian Fields in the Third 
District, is a pleasant promenade. These 
several resorts are easily reached by 
street cars from Canal Street. 

The Streets of New Orleans are, for the 
most part, wide, well paved, and regularly 
laid out, usually intersecting each other 
at right angles, and, since the war, kept 
passably clean. The broadest is Canal 
Street, with a width of 190^ feet, with a 
grass plot 25 feet wide, extending in the 
centre through its whole length. Esplan- 
ade, Rampart, and Basin Streets are sim- 
ilarly embellished. The houses are built 
chiefly of brick, and are usually four or 
five stories high. 

The Libraries of New Orleans are few 
and unimportant. The collection of 
books forming the State Library, occupy 
a room in the upper story of the City 
Hall until a suitable place is provided by 
act of Legislature. The City Library is 
on the first floor of the same building. 
It comprises about 19,000 volumes, prin- 
cipally miscellaneous works. Admission 
to the privileges of the Library, for non- 
residents, is by introduction. 

Armory Hall, on Camp Street, occupies 
the site, and part of the walls of the old 
395 



New Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Orleans. 



Camp Street theatre, erected in 1822. It is 
a fine apartment 120 feet long, 60 feet wide, 
and 22 feet high. It was long used as the 
armory of the Washington Battalion. It 
is now used as an auction mart. 

The Cemeteries. — Some of these homes 
of the dead in New Orleans are deserv- 
ing of particular notice, both from their 
unique arrangement and for the peculiar 
modes of interment. Each is enclosed 
with a brick wall of arched cavities 
(ovens, as they are called here), made 
just large enough to admit a single coffin, 
and raised, tier upon tier, to a height of 
about twelve feet, with a thickness of ten. 
Tlie whole enclosure is divided into plots, 
v/ith gravel paths intersecting each other 
at right angles, and is densely covered 
with tombs, built wholly above ground, 
and from one to three stories high. This 
method of sepulture is adopted from 
necessity, and burial under ground is 
never attempted, excepting in the Potter's 
Field, where the stranger without friends, 
and the poor without money, find an un- 
certain rest — the water with which the 
soil is always saturated, often lifting the 
coffin and its contents out of its narrow 
and shallow cell, to rot with no other 
covering than the arch of heaven. There 
are twelve public burial-grounds in the 
city, known respectively as Girod Street, 
Charity Hospital, Odd Fellows', Cypress 
Grove, Greenwood, St. Patrick's, St. Jo- 
seph, St. Vincent, Lafayette, St. Louis, 
Nos. 1 and 2 New St. Louis, and Hebrew 
Rest. Of these the Cypress Grove and 
Greenwood Cemetery, on the Metarie 
Ridge, at the north end of Canal Street, 
are the best worthy a visit. The ceme- 
tery of St. Louis No. 1 , at the intersection 
of Basin and St. Louis Streets, contains 
some fine monuments. Among those most 
conspicuous for their size and beauty, 
ai'e the vaults of the " Societe Francaise 
de bienfaisance," " Orleans Battalion of 
Artillery," the " Portuguese Society," and 
" Italian Benevolent Society."- The last is 
one of the most beautiful structures of its 
kind in the country. It is of white marble, 
and was built in 1 83*7, by Pietro Gualdi. 
St. Louis Cemetery No. 2 occupies four city 
squares on Esplanade Street, near Bayou 
St. John. Other cemeteries, principally 
Catholic, are situated in Lafayette and 
Algiers. Permits to visit the cemeteries 
396 



are granted at 10 Bank Place. The 
Monument Cemetery on the Battle- 
Field is wholly devoted to the interment 
of soldiers. It was opened May 2, 18G4, 
and has already 9,000 interments. There 
are two other cemeteries for deceased 
soldiers on the Carrolton Shell Road. 

3fonumcnts.~New Orleans has two mon- 
uments worthy of notice. The Clay Monu- 
ment on Canal Street, between St. Charles 
and Royal Streets, is built of granite ; the 
figure bears a striking resemblance to 
the great statesman. The monument in 
course of erection to the Hero of New 
Orleans, on the Battle-Field, below the 
city, is seventy feet high. It was com- 
menced in 1856. When complete, it will 
be 140 feet in height. The equestrian 
statue of Jackson in the Place D'Armes, 
opposite the Cathedral, is too well known 
to need description here. It is the same 
met with so often in Washington and 
other cities. 

The MarJieis. — The stranger in New 
Orleans will be much interested by a 
visit to the mai-kets. They are charac- 
teristic and numerous. The principal 
are the vegetable and meat (French) mar- 
kets on the Levee near Jackson Square 
and the French Cathedral. To be seen 
to the greatest advantage, they should be 
visited on Sunday morning, between the 
hours of 8 and 9 o'clock. At break of 
day the gathering commences — all colors, 
nations, and tongues, commingled in one 
heterogeneous mass. The music far from 
being unpleasant, however, is musical to 
the stranger's ear. A visit thither is thus 
described by a well-known writer: One 
morning we rose early to visit the market 
of the First Municipality, and found the 
air on the bank of the Mississippi filled 
with mist as dense as a London fog, but 
of a pure white instead of yellow color. 
Through this atmosphere the imnunerable 
masts of the ships alongside the wharf 
were dimly seen. Among other fruits 
in the market we observed abimdance 
of bananas, and good pine-apples, for ' 
twenty-five cents each, from the West 
Indies. There were stalls where hot 
coffee was selling, in white china cups, 
reminding us of Paris. Among other 
articles exposed for sale were brooms 
made of palmetto-leaves, and w^agon- 
loads of the dried Spanish moss, or Til- 



New Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[New Orleans. 



landsia. The quantity of this plant hang- 
ing from the trees in the swamps sur- 
rounding New Orleans, and everywhere 
on the Delta of the Mississippi, might 
sufiSce to stuff all the mattresses in the 
world. The Indians formerly used it for 
another purpose — to give porosity or 
lightness to their building materials. 
When passing through the stalls, we 
were surrounded by a population of ne- 
groes, mulattoes, and quadroons, some 
talking French, others a patois of Spanish 
and French, others a mixture of French 
and English, or English translated from 
French, and with the French accent. 
They seemed very merry, especially those 
who were jet-black. Some of the Creoles 
also, both of French and Spanish extrac- 
tion, like many natives of the south of 
Europe, were very dark. Amid this 
motley group, sprung from so many races, 
we encountered a young man and woman, 
arm-in-arm, of fair complexion, evidently 
Anglo-Saxon, and who looked as if they 
had recently come from the North. The 
Indians, Spaniards, and French standing 
round them, seemed as if placed there to 
remind us of the successive races whose 
power in Louisiana had passed away, 
while this fair couple were the represent- 
atives of a people whose dominion car- 
ries the imagination far into the future. 
However much the moralist may satiiize 
the spirit of conquest, or the foreigner 
laugh at some of the vainglorious boast- 
ing about " destiny," none can doubt 
that from this stock is to spring the 
people who will supersede every other in 
the northern if not also in the southern 
continent of America. The buildings 
formiug the market-place first describ- 
ed were built in 1830, at a cost of 
$55,000. The other markets are those 
in Poydras and Magazine Streets, St. 
Mary^s on Thompson Street, Orleam near 
the city prison, and that at the head of 
Elysian Fields. A visit to the first, how- 
lever, will save the stranger the trouble 
) of making further explorations. 

Among the relics of the Spanish rule in 
New Orleans the most interesting are the 
LVna Blanca, at the corner of Bienville 
and Old Levee Streets. It was once the 
; courtly residence of Bienville, the first 
iGovernor of Louisiana (1*710). It remains 
ias originally built, and in a good state of 



repair. The first or street floor is now 
occupied as a grocery store ; the upper 
portion as a boarding-house. The old 
Spanish building at the corner of Royal 
and Dumaine Streets should also be visited 
by those who would see what New Orleans 
was "more than a hundred^ears ago." 
Jackson's Headquarters are in the upper 
part of the house No. 86 (old number, 104) 
Royal Street. General Jackson occupied 
these quarters during his stay in the city 
from December 2, 1814, to a few days 
before the battle. The Old Spanish Court 
House, where Jackson was arraigned for 
contempt of court and fined a thousand 
dollars, is still another object of interest 
connected with the history of this remark- 
able man. It is at 269 Royal Sh;reet. 

Walking through the French quarter of 
the city, near the corner of Orleans and 
Dauphin Streets, not far north of the 
Cathedral, the stranger will observe a fine 
date palm, 30 feet high, growing in the 
open air. This tree is near one hundred 
years old, for Pere Antoine, a Roman 
Catholic priest, who died (1829) at the 
age of eighty, recorded that he planted it 
himself when he was young. In his will 
he provided that they who succeeded to 
this lot of ground should forfeit it if they 
cut down the palm. 

The Levee, already briefly referred to in 
our sketch, affords to the visitor one of the 
most peculiar and characteristic sights of 
the Crescent City. For extent and activity 
the scene has no equal on the continent. 
The best point from which to obtain a 
view of the city and its environs is the 
roof of the St. Charles Hotel, or the tower 
of St. Patrick's Church. If the traveller, 
says Sir Charles Lyell, has expected, on 
first obtaining an extensive view of the 
city, to see an unsightly swamp, with 
scarcely any objects to relieve the mo- 
notony of the flat plain, save the wind- 
ing river and a few lakes, he will be agree- 
ably disappointed. He will admire many 
a villa and garden in the suburbs ; and in 
the uncultivated space beyond, the effect 
of uneven and undulating ground is pro- 
duced by the magnificent growth of 
cypress and oth-er swamp timber, which 
have converted what would otherwise 
have formed the lowest points in the 
landscape into the appearance of wooded 
eminences. The French began their settle- 
397 



New Orleans.] 



LODISIANA. 



[New Orleans. 



ments on Lake Pontchartrain, because 
tliey found there an easy communication 
with the Gulf of Mexico. But they fixed 
the site of their town on that part of the 
great river which was nearest to the 
lagoon, so as to command by this means 
the navigation of the interior country. 
The private dwellings in the suburbs are 
many of them very charming places, buried 
in the grateful shadow of tropical leaves 
— the magnolia, lemon, myrtle, and orange 
tree. Visitors wishing to bring away 
with them a few pictures of the prominent 
buildings and objects of interest in New 
Orleans should not fail to visit the gallery 
of Mr. Eugene A. Piffet, at 93 Camp Street. 
His collection" affords every latitude of 
choice, afld his facilities for executing 
orders are not excelled by any other es- 
tablishment in the city. 

The Restaurants of New Orleans have 
long been famous for the excellence of 
their cuisine. Victor'' s, 185 Canal Street ; 
the Maiso7i Doree, 144 Canal, and the 
Restaurant Moreau, have no superiors in 
the South. Galjnn^s, 32 Royal Street 
(steaks and chops) ; Pino's, 23 St. Charles, 
and Rivas (oysters), 156 Dryades Street, 
are among the best of their class in the city. 

The City Railroad system of New 
Orleans embraces eight main lines — trav- 
ersing the following streets; Magazine, 
from Canal to 8th ; Prytania, from Canal 
to Limits; Canal, from Monument to 
Ridge Cemeteries ; Esplanade, from Monu- 
ment to Bayou I3ridge; Dauphin, from 
Monument to U. S. Barracks ; Levee, from 
Custom House to TJ. S. Barracks ; Baronne 
Street, throughout. The aggregate length 
of track laid in the city is 40 miles. Fares 
range from 5 cents to *? cents. Good car- 
riages and hacks can be found at the 
stands in front of the St. Charles and 
principal hotels. Fare, $2.00 an hour; 
$5.00 for the forenoon or afternoon. 
Livery charges are somewhat higher. 
The best plan for strangers, especially if 
accompanied by ladies, is to hire a suitable 
conveyance by the hour, and discharge at 
the end of each trip. 

The city is supplied with water from the 
river, raised by steam to an elevated re- 
servoir, and thence distributed through 
the streets. Some six millions of gallons 
are used daily. Gas was introduced in 
1834 — water the same year. 
398 



The holiday season, which includes 
Christmas and the New Year's, is the best 
time to visit New Orleans. No city on the 
broad continent presents such numerous 
and varied attractions at this festive sea- 
son, and stolid, indeed, must be the 
stranger who is not impressed with his 
experiences. The distinguished author 
from whom we have so largely quoted, 
thus writes of the Carnival and the cere- 
monies of Mardi Gras : " It was quite a 
novel and refreshing sight to see a whole 
population giving up then' minds for a 
short season to amusement. There was 
a grand procession parading the streets, 
almost every one dressed in the most 
grotesque attire, troops of them on horse- 
back, some in open carriages, with bands 
of music, and in a variety of costumes — 
some as Lidians, with feathers on their 
heads, and one, a jolly fat man, as Mardi 
Gras himself All wore masks, and here 
and there in the crowd, or stationed in a 
balcony above, we saw persons armed 
with bags of flour, which they showered 
down copiously on any one who seemed 
particularly proud of his attire. The 
strangeness of the scene was not a little 
heightened by the blending of negroes, 
quadroons, and mulattoes in the crowd ; 
and we were amused by obsei-ving the 
ludicrous surprise, mixed with contempt, 
of several unmasked, stiff, grave Anglo- 
Americans from the North, who were 
witnessing for the first time what seemed 
to them so much mummery and tom- 
foolery. One wagoner, coming out of a 
cross street in his working dress, drove his 
team of horses and vehicle, heavily laden 
with cotton-bales, right through the pro- 
cession, causing a long interruption. The 
crowd seemed determmed to allow nothmg 
to disturl) their good humor ; but although 
many of the wealthy Protestant citizens 
take part in the ceremony, this rude intru- 
sion struck me as a kind of foreshadowing 
of coming events, emblematic of the vio- 
lent shock which the invasion of the 
Anglo-Americans is about to give to the 
old regime of Louisiana. A gentleman 
told me that, being last year in Rome, he 
had not seen so many masks at the Carni- 
val there ; and, in spite of the increase of 
Protestants, he thought there had been 
quite as much ' flour and fun ' this year 
as usual. The proportion, however, of 



New Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[Vicinity. 



Btrict Eomanists is not so great as for- 
merly, and to-morrow, they say, when Lent 
begins, there will be an end of the trade 
! in masks ; yet the butchers will sell nearly 
as much meat as ever. During the Car- 
j nival the greater part of the French popu- 
lation keep open houses, especially in the 
country." 

The Creoles. — Those who would form 
a just estimate of the social character and 
appearance of the Creole population of 
the city, should visit the opera in the 
height of the season. The French Creole 
ladies, many of them descended from 
Norman ancestors, and of pure, unmixed 
blood, are very handsome. They are 
usually attired in Parisian fashion, not 
over-dressed, nor so thinly clad as are 
the generality of American women — their 
luxuriant hair, tastefully arranged, fasten- 
ed with ornamental pins, and adorned 
with a colored ribbon or a single flower. 
The word " Creole " is used in Louisiana to 
express a native-born American, whether 
black or white, descended from old-world 
parents, for they would not call the abo- 
riginal Indians Creoles. It never means 
persons of mixed breed ; and the French 
or Spanish Creoles in New Orleans would 
shiink as much as a New Englander from 
intermarriage with one tainted, in the 
slightest degree, with African blood. The 
frequent alliances of the Creoles, or Louis- 
ianians, of French extraction, with lawyers 
and merchants from the Northern States, 
help to cement the ties which are every 
day binding more firmly together the 
distant parts of the Union. Both races 
may be improved by such connection, for 
the manners of the Creole ladies are, for 
the most part, more refined ; and many a 
Louisianian might justly have felt indig- 
nant if he could have overheard a con- 
ceited young bachelor from the North 
telling me " how much they were prefer- 
red by the fair sex to the hard-drinking, 
gambling, horse-racing, cock-fighting, and 
tobacco-chewing Southerners." If the 
Creoles have less depth of character, and 
are less striving and ambitious than the 
New Englanders, it must be no slight 
source of happiness to the former to be 
so content with present advantages. They 
seem to feel, far more than the Anglo- 
Saxons, that if riches be worth the win- 
ning, they are also worth enjoying. The 



quadroons, or the offspring of the whites 
and muluttoes, sit in an upper tier of 
boxes appropriated to them. When they 
are rich, they hold a peculiar and very 
equivocal position in society. As children 
they have often been sent to Paris for 
their education, and, being as capable of 
improvement as any whites, return with 
refined manners, and not unfrcquently 
with more cultivated minds than the ma- 
jority of those from whose society they 
are shut out. " By the tyranny of caste 
they are driven, therefore, to form among 
themselves a select and exclusive set. 
Among other stories illustrating their 
social relation to the whites, we are told 
that a youffg man of the dominant race 
fell in love with a beautiful quadroon girl, 
who was so light-colored as to be scarcely 
distinguishable from one of pure breed. 
He found that, in order to render the mar- 
riage legal, he was required to swear that 
he himself had negro blood in his veins ; 
and, that he might conscientiously take 
the oath, he let some of the blood of his 
betrothed into his veins with a lancet. 
The romance of this doubtful tale was 
greatly diminished, although I fear that 
my inclination to believe in its truth was 
equ;illy enhanced, when the additional 
circumstance was related, that the young 
lady was rich." The foregoing sketch of 
society and social life in New Orleans, I 
need hardly remind my reader, was penned 
long before the late rebellion had so 
changed the aspect of every thing through- 
out the South. The visitor will, however, 
be surprised as well as delighted at the 
extent to which the manners and customs 
of " the old regime,'''' are still perpetuated 
among the descendants of the early settlers 
in the Crescent City. 

Railways. — The Nevi Orleans, JacJcson, 
and Great Northern Railway. Stations, 
Mag-nolia (98 m.), Jackson (183 m.), Cair- 
ton (206 m.), where it connects with the 
Mississippi Central to Jackson, and all 
points north, east, and west. 

Mexican Gulf Railway from New Or- 
leans 28 miles to Proctorsville, connect- 
ing with Mobile steamers. 

Nev) Orleans, Opelousas, and Great 
Western Railway from Algiers, opposite 
New Orleans, via St. Charles (18), La- 
fourche (52), Terrabonne (55), Bayou 
399^ 



Kew Orleans.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[Vicinity. 



Bceuf (73), to Brashear (80 miles), where 
trains connect with Southern Steamship 
Company's packets for Galveston and In- 
dianola, Texas. 

Steamboats. — Steamer to New York 
twice a week. To St. Louis, and all 
points on the Upper Mississippi and Ohio 
Kivcrs, every evening. For Red, Oua- 
chita, and Yazoo Rivers, regular semi- 
weekly packets. 

VICINITY. 

The Battle-Field^ formerly known as 
the Plains of Chalmette, is an object of 
much interest to all Amei'ican visitors, 
and is generally first visited. •It lies four 
miles and a half south of Canal Street, 
and may be reached either by carriage 
along the levee, or by the street cars. It 
is washed by the waters of the Mississip- 
pi, and surrounded by cypress-swamps 
and cane-brakes. The action took place 
January 8, 1815, between the British 
troops, under General Pakenham, and the 
Americans under Jackson, the former 
suffering a signal defeat. Pakenliam was 
approaching the city by the way of Lakes 
Borgne and Pontchartrain, at the time of 
this terrible repulse. His loss in killed 
and wounded was nearly 3,000, while the 
Americans had but 7 men killed and 6 
wounded. A marble monument, 70 feet 
high, and yet unfinished, occupies a suit- 
able site overlooking the ground, and 
serves to commemorate the victory. 

The MorMmenial Cemetery or Sol- 
diers' Burying-Ground, occupies the south- 
west corner of the field. In return- 
ing to the city a good opportunity is 
afforded for visiting the United States 
Barracks, which front the river about 
three and a half miles below the city. 
The purchase of the property, which 
embraces two acres front and forty 
acres in depth, was made through Adju- 
tant G. M. Dreme, in 1830. The works 
were begun in February, 1834, and com- 
pleted December, 1835, at a cost of $182,- 
000. The quarters of the commandant 
occupy the centre of the front, those of 
the staff and company being on either 
flank. The hospital storehouse, corps de 
garde, and post magazine, are in the rear 
of the parade-ground. One of the build- 
ings on the right of the parade-ground 
400 



was fired by the shells from Admiral Far- 
ragut's fleet on their way up to the city 
(April 25, 18G2). The garrison is now 
composed of the 1st Regular Infantry. 

The Ursuline Convent is passed a sliort 
distance north of the Barracks. It has 
an imposing front of near 200 feet, and 
commands a fine view of the river. It was 
founded in 1826. A nunnery and chapel 
are attached to the convent. The former 
has accommodation for forty sisters of 
the Ursuline Order. Admission to the 
convent is granted only during vacation. 

Lake Pontchartrain, five miles north of 
the city, is famous for its fish and game. 
It communicates with Lake Maurepas on 
the west, and through the Rigolets, with 
Lake Borgne and the Gulf of Mexico on 
the east. By this latter route the daily 
steamers leave New Orleans for Mobile. 
The lake is 40 miles in length and 24 
miles in with. It is from 16 to 20 feet 
deep, and abounds in fish. It is reached 
by the Lake Railway every hour through 
the day. The swamps which lay between 
the city and the lake, and are traversed by 
the railway, are covered with a thick 
growth of cvpress and other trees peculiar 
to this locality. At the railway terminus 
is a hotel (the Washington) for the 
accommodation of visitors. Those par- 
ticular about their sleeping accommoda- 
tion and their associations, would do well 
to return to the city by the last train, 
which usually leaves at 7 o'clock. The 
Shell Road affords an agreeable drive to 
Lake Pontchartrain for those who prefer 
that kind of locomotion. This road lies 
along the margin of the canal, and was 
once the finest and smoothest road in the 
country. During the military occupation 
of the city, a railroad track was laid 
through it, which has greatly marred its 
beauty and excellence. A movement is 
on foot to restore it. Half way between 
the city and the lake is the celebrated 
Metarie race track. Buffet and restaurant. 
adjoining. 

Lafayeite, until 1852 under a distinct 
government, now forms the 4th district 
of New Orleans. 

Jefferson City is a pleasant suburb 
of New Orleans, lying immediately west 
of the city. It is reached in thirty min- 
utes by car from Canal Street. 

Carrolton, in Jefferson Parish, six miles 



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{**: 



naniv. The hospital storehouse, corps de 
garde, and post magazine, are in the rear 
of the parade-ground. One of the build- 
ings on the right of the parade-ground 
400 



of New Orleans, lying immediately west 
of the city. It is reached in thirty min- 
utes by car from Canal Street. 

CarroUon, in Jefferson Parish, six miles 



Baton Eouge.] 



LOUISIANA. 



[Baton Rouge 



from Canal Street, has many fine public 
gardens and private residenees. The 
route beyond the city of New Orleans is 
through cultivated fields, gardens, and 
^ell-shaded pastures. It has a good 
•ace-course. llailway communication 
ivith New Orleans every hour. 

Greenville is at the western terminus 
)f the city car route. The United States 
Hospital buildmgs located here are worthy 

[visit. 
Algiers, opposite to New Orleans, has 
xtensive dry docks and ship-yards. Com- 
|nunication by ferry. Macdonougli, on 
he same side, was once conspicuous for 
ts fine F. S. Hospital, one of the largest 
lltructures in the State. It was destroyed 
luring the late war. Gretna, two miles 
Ibove Macdonough and nearly opposite 
Lafayette, is a pretty rural spot, abound- 
ig in pleasant, shady w-alks. 
Forts St. Philip and Jackson, seventy- 
ve miles below the city and twenty-five 
liles from the "passes," or mouths of 
bie river, are interesting to the Northern 
■aveller as the scene of the bombard- 
lent by the naval fleet under Admiral 
;hen Captain) Farragut, April 18, 1862. 
ort St. Philip is on the north and Fort 
ackson on the south bank of the river, 
he bombardment continued six days, 
he Chalmetle Batteries, six miles below 
le city, manned for a short time by the 
ibels as Farragut's fleet passed up the 
ver, are seen near the edge of the old 
'lialmette hattle-Jleld. At 10 o'clock p. m. 



of the 25th April, 1862, the fleet anchored 
off the Custom House. 

ISsitoii l£oug;e. — Hotel, Harney 
House. This city, the former capital of 
Louisiana, is upon the Mississippi, 129 
miles above New Orleans. It is built 
upon the first of the famous bluffs of the 
Great River seen in ascending its waters, 
and is thouglit to be one of the most 
healthy places in this part of the country. 
The city contains a College and a United 
States Arsenal and Barracks. The name 
of Baton Rouge is said to have been thus 
derived : when the place was first settled, 
there was growing on the spot a cypress 
(a tree of a reddish bax-k) of immense size 
and great height, denuded of branches. . 
One of the settlers playfully remarked 
that it would make a handsome cane. 
From this small jest grew Baton Rouge 
(red cane). The Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 
and Penitentiary are conspicuous build- 
ings. Baton Rouge is interesting as hav- 
ing been the home of Zaehary Taylor. 

As the usual route to the States of Texas 
and Arkansas, adjoining Louisiana, west 
of the Mississippi River, is by steamer 
from New Orleans, I shall devote the 
two following chapters to a brief descrip- 
tion of the main points and features of 
interest in those States, reserving more 
minute particulars in regard to the river 
routes from New Orleans northward to 
Memphis, St. Louis, and Cincinnati, to the 
close of my volume. 

401 



Texas 



TEXAS. 



[Texj 



TEXAS. 



Texas is one of the youngest of the 
great family of Southern United States, 
and on account of its remoteness from 
the ordinary thoroughfares of travel, is 
but little visited by Northern tourists. 
In the year 1821 the inducements held 
out to setters in this region by the Govern- 
ment of Mexico, to whom the territory at 
that period belonged, caused an immense 
rush of emigration thither from the 
United States. This new and hardier 
population had grown so numerous by 
the year 1832, as to quite absorb and 
destroy the original feeble spirit of the 
land under Mexican rule, and to embolden 
the exotic population to seek the freedom 
and independence there, to which they 
had been accustomed at home. AVith 
both the will and power to accomplish 
their purpose, they first demanded admis- 
sion for their State as an independent 
member of the Mexican Confederacy ; 
and that being refused, they declared 
themselves wholly free of all allegiance 
whatsoever to that government. This as- 
sumption resulted in a war with Mexico, 
which, after various fortunes, was deter- 
termined in favor of the Texans, by the 
total defeat and capture of the Mexican 
President, Santa Anna, at the memorable 
battle of San Jacinto, April 21, 1836. 
The little village of San Jacinto is in 
Harris County, on B'affalo Bayou, near its 
entrance into Galveston Bay, 17 miles east 
of the present city of Houston. Texas con- 
tinued to be an independent nation after 
the battle of San Jacinto, until her ad- 
mission in 1845 as a member of the great 
North American Confederacy. This fresh 
turn in events, and the disputes which fol- 
lowed in respect to boundary lines, be- 
tween the new State and the territory of 
Mexico, were soon followed by the war 
between that country and the United 
402 



States. Two of the famous fights in tl 
war, under the lead of General Tayki 
occurred within the limits of the preset 
State. The battle-field of Palo Alto 
near the southern extremity of Texas, t ' 
tweeu Point Isabel and Matamoras, nii 
miles northeast of the latter town. Tl 
battle took place on the 8th of May, 184 
The American troops, numbering 2,11 
led by General Taylor, had 32 killed an 
4Y wounded ; while the Mexicans, und' 
General Arista, amounting to 6,000 mt 
had 262 killed. The American loss vji 
happily included the gallant Major Eir 
gold. The battle-field of Resaca de 
Palma lies in the southeastern extremi 
of the State, near the entrance of t 
Eio Grande into the Gulf of Mexico, 
is in close vicinage with the field of Po' 
Alto, four miles north of Matamoras, 
the route to Point Isabel. This galla: 
engagement occurred on the 9th of Md 
1846, the day following the victory 
Palo Alto. The Mexicans, to the numt 
of 6,000, under General Arista, wf 
totally defeated by about 2,000 Ame, 
cans, commanded by General Tayld 
The loss of the former was about 5. 
killed and wounded, besides all their i 
tillery and furniture ; that of the latl 
was 39 killed and 82 wounded. Thou:' 
Texas has since these days of trial go 
on prospering and to prosper, she is v 
yet entirely at peace in all her borda 
On the northwest plains of the State t 
people are still exposed to the murdero 
incursions of their Indian neighbors, t 
fierce and warlike Camanches, Apachil 
and other tribes. 

Texas was the seventh of the Southei 
States to join the ill-fated Confedera( 
the ordinance of secession having be 
passed at the city of Austin, February 
1861. The United States troops in t 



^EXAS.] 



TEXAS. 



[Tkxas, 



tate at that time numbered 2,500, divid- 

i into 37 companies. 

The landscape of Texas is varied, and 

I many sections of the State highly 

icturesque. Along the coast, on the 

mtheast, thei'e is a flat reach of from 30 

) 60 miles in breadth ; next comes a belt 

[■ undulating prairie country, extending 

om 150 to 200 miles wide, and this 

;ain is succeeded in the west and north- 

est by a region of bold hills and table 

nds. The plateau of Texas, including 

toie portions of New Mexico, extends 

bout 250 miles from north to south, and 

^ IDO miles from the Rio Grande east. The 

pper part, known as the Llano Estacado, 

" Staked Plain," is 2,500 feet above 

\e sea. This immense district, except-^ 

sometimes, the immediate edge of 

).e streams, is almost wholly destitute of 

etation. Even the stunted grasses, 

hich follow the rains, soon wither and 

The Colorado, the Brazos, and the 

ed Elvers find their sources here. The 

;treme northern part of the State, ex- 

Inding, perhaps, 60 miles or more, is oc- 

ipied by a portion of the great Ameri- 

n desert. The high lands of the west 

id northwest are yet a wilderness, visit- 

f. only by a few bold hunters in quest of 

e buffalo and other wild animals which 

liound there. The region, however, is said 

have an inviting aspect, and to he well 

atered and fertile. The Colorado Hills 

tend in a north and south direction, 

St of the Colorado River. Between the 

filorado and the Rio Grande, and north 

i the sources of the San Antonio and 

lieces Rivers, are broken and irregular 

all lain? of hills, probably outposts of the 

i(ii eat Rocky Mountain ranges. Some of 

li iese hills, as the Organ, the Hueco, and 

[lij 'p Guadalupe Mountains, have an ele- 

il! jtion of 3,000 feet above the Rio 

/Lv'fande; and the Guadalupe group rises 

oio lithat height above the adjacent plains. 

iiiti ' xas abounds in mineral wealth, as 

ti(. ight be supposed from her proximity to 

pi<; '3 rich mining districts of Mexico. Gold 

|iiii lid silver lie buried, no doubt, in large 

(antities in her soil. Indeed, the latter 

,iii utal has been already found at San Saba 

,» 1 d upon the Bidas River. Coal is sup- 

it jsed to exist about 200 miles from the 

[,1 tist, in a belt extending southwest from 

;i Inity River to the Rio Grande. Iron is 



found in many parts of the State ; and 
copperas, agates, lime, alum, chalcedony, 
jasper, and red and white sandstone. 
There are, too, salt-lakes and salt-springs. 
In a pitch lake, 20 miles from Beaumont, 
there are deposits of sulphur, nitre, and 
fire-clay. An immense gypsum-bed, the 
largest yet discovered on the continent, 
traverses the northwest portion of the 
State. Mineral springs (see Springs) exist 
in different parts of the country. 

The soil of Texas is as varied as its sur- 
face and climate, and, for the most part, 
extremely fertile. The great staple is 
cotton, which thrives all over the State, 
and is of very superior quality in the Gulf 
districts. Sugar may be profitably culti- 
vated in the fevel regions. Tobacco is 
raised with ease, and with scarcely less 
success than on the island of Cuba. All 
the grains and grasses of the North are 
found here, with every variety of tropical 
and other fruits and vegetation. The live 
oak, in many varieties, abounds in the 
forests, beside the palmetto, cedar, pine, 
hickory, walnut, ash, pecan, mulberry, 
elm, sycamore, and cypress. Sportsmen 
will find a congenial abiding-place in 
Texas. On the prairies almost every 
kind of wild animal abounds. In the 
northwest are the wild horse, or mustang, 
and the fierce bufialo. The deer and the 
antelope, the moose and the mountain 
goat, are plentiful — not to mention the 
jaguars, the pumas, wild-cats, black bears, 
ocelots, wolves, and foxes, and such smaller 
game as peccaries, opossums, raccoons, 
hares, rabbits, and squirrels. A special 
feature of the wild life here is the prairie 
dog, or marmot, dwelUng in holes burrow- 
ed in the ground. Their numbers are so 
great that the traveller may sometimes 
journey for days together without losing 
sight of them. The feathered tribe are 
also abundant, including birds of prey 
and birds of sport. There is the bald- 
headed eagle and the Mexican eagle, vul- 
tures, owls, hawks, wild turkeys, wild 
geese, prairie hens, canvass-back and other 
ducks, teal, brandt, pheasants, quails, 
grouse, woodcocks, pigeons, partridges, 
snipes, plovers, red-birds, and turtle-doves. 
By the waters are found, also, the crane, 
the swan, the pelican, the water turkey, 
and the king-fisher. The smaller birds 
are numerous, and among them many of 
403 



RiTEUS.] 



TEXAS. 



[Galtestot,! 



} 



the most brilliant plumage, as the oriole, 
the paroquet, the cardinal, the whippoor- 
will, and the sweet-toned mocking-bird. 
Blackbirds abound, and woodpeckei's, 
blue-jays, starlings, red-birds, swallows, 
martens, and wrens. In the rivers and 
bays there are all the varieties of water 
life, from alligators to perch, pike, trout, 
turtles, and oysters. Snakes and reptiles 
of all sorts are at home in Texas ; rattle- 
snakes, moccasins, copperheads, coach- 
whips, and garden snakes, horned frogs 
and lizards, the ugly centipedes and the 
poisonous tarantula. The coast of Texas, 
like that of the borders of the Southern 
States, on the Atlantic and the Gulf of 
Mexico, is lined with a chain of islands, 
separated from the main land by bays and 
lagoons. There are the bays of Galveston, 
Matagorda, Espiritu Santo, Aranzas, Cor- 
pus Christi, and Laguna del Madre. These 
bays are some 30 and some nearly 100 
miles in length. 

EiVEKS. — The Rio Grande^ or Rio Braro 
del Norte, the largest river in Texas, of 
which it forms the southern boundary, is 
1,800 miles in length. It flows from the 
Rocky Mountains to the Gulf of Mexico. 
It is a shallow stream, much broken by 
rapids and sand-bars, though small steam- 
boats ascend its waters 450 miles from the 
sea, to Kingsbury Ra^nds. Brownsville, 40 
miles from its mouth, is its principal 
town. The "Great Indian Crossing" is 
about 900 miles from its mouth. At this 
place is the famous ford of the Apaches 
and the Camanches, when they make their 
predatory visits into Mexico. 

The Colorado River runs from the 
table-lands in the northwest part of the 
State 900 miles to Matagorda Bay. Austin 
City, Bastrop, La Grange, Columbus, and 
Matagorda are upon its banks. Austin, 
the capital of the State, at the head of 
steamboat navigation, is 300 miles from 
the sea. The scenery of many portions 
of this river is extremely picturesque. 

The Brazos is one of the largest of the 
Texan rivers. It runs from the table- 
lands of the west to the Gulf of Mexico, 40 
miles below Galveston ; the direct distance 
from its source to its mouth is 500 miles, 
and by the windings of its channel 900 
miles. At high water the Brazos is navi- 
gable 300 miles from its mouth, to Wash- 
404 



inc/ton; and steamboats may ascend 40 
miles, to Columbia, at all seasons. Mucli 
of its course is through alluvial plains, 
occupied with sugar and cotton j)lanta. 
tions, fields of Indian corn, and forests of 
red cedar and of live oak. Kiclnnond 
and Waco are also small towns on this 
river. 

The Nueces, like most of the rivers of 
Texas, rises in the table and hill districts 
of the west, and flows through the .Statu 
into the Gulf of Mexico. This river follows 
a very eccentric course of 350 miles to 
Nueces Bay. It may be ascended by i 
steamers 100 miles. 

The San Antonio, the Guadahipe, the 
Trinity, the Neches, and the Sabine, other u 
chief rivers of Texas, are, in general -)<j 
character, course, and extent, much like M 
those of which we have already spoken. 



Railways. — The Houston and Texas 
Central Railway from Houston 80 miles 
to Millican. Connects at Houston with 
steamers for Galveston and New Orleans ; 
at Hempstead, with the Washington 
County Railway for Brenliam ; and at 
Navasota, with stages to Shreveport. 

The Galveston, Houston, and Henderson 
Railway from Galveston 50 miles to 
Houston. Connects at Harrisburg with 
the Buffalo Bayou, Brazos, and Colorado i 
Railway; at Austin with Texas Central c 
Railway. 

The Buffcdo Bayou, Brazos, and Colo-' 
rado Railway from Galveston (steamboat) 
65 miles to Harrisburg; to Richmond 
(railroad), 32 miles ; and thence by stage, 
via Columbus (145) and Bastrop (210), to 
Austin, 240 miles. 

The Houston Tap and Brazoria Rail- 
way, from Houston to Columbia, 50 miles. 
There are numerous other routes pro- 
jected and partially completed. Promi- 
nent among these are the Galveston and 
Fulton, Arkansas, route ; the Texas and 
New Orleans route ; and Southern Pacifici 
route. 

GALVESTOIT. 

450 miles from New Orleans ; 230 from 
Austin. 

Hotels, Island City House. Galvee 
ton is the largest city and the commercia 



ffOUSTON.] 



TEXAS. 



[Austin, 



[letropolis of Texas. It is built on an 

land at the mouth of Galveston Bay. 

he island of Galveston is about 30 miles 

1 length and 3 miles broad — dividing 

lie harbor from the Gulf of Mexico. It 

I a thriving place, and its advantages as 

|ie best harbor on the coast will, no 

pubt, rapidly increase its importance. 

he city was first settled in 1837. The 

loman Catholic ITniversiiy of St. Mary^s, 

ie Cathedral^ and the Episcopal Church 

[■e large, noticeable structures of brick, 

the Gothic style. There is in the city 

so a convent of TJrsuline nuns. It has 

so a fine Town Hall and Market House, 

e island of Galveston was for a number 

years the rendezvous and headquarters 

the famous pirate of the Gulf, Lafitte, 

til his settlement was broken up in 1821 

{ Lieutenant Kearney, commanding the 

ited States brig Enterprise. The bay 

tends northward from the city to the 

jouth of Trinity River, a distance of 35 

lies, and has an average breadth of 15 

les. The city has two good hotels, and 

veral newspapers. Railroads and steam- 

3 are bringing Galveston within speedy 

ich of the great country around it. 

ssengers may now leave the city on the 

ffalo Bayou, Brazos, and Colorado 

ilway (see Railways), and reach Austin 

60 hours, including 18 hours' rest. 

ijjiges go from Columbus, on this route, 

Hallettsville, Gonsales, Seguiu, and San 

itonio ; and from Austin to all points of 

estern and Northwestern Texas. Gal- 

3ton is connected with Houston by the 

(Iveston, Houston, and Henderson Rail- 

y, 50 miles in length. Daily steamers 

New Orleans. Population 12,000. 

Route from New York. — One of the 

nted States mail line packets (Williams 

ijbruion, Yl Wall Street, agents) leaves 

llr No. 37, E.R., every fortnight. Cabin 

fk $75.00. 

pioMStoii. — Hotels, State Capitol 
Mel, Fannin House. Houston, the second 
othe Texan cities in commercial import- 
a?e, is reached from Galveston by 
rbr, 82 miles; or by the Galveston and 
I^uston Railway, 50 miles. Its popula- 
tip is about 10,000. It is situated on the 
]<• lands of the coast stretch, upon 
ETalo Bayou, 200 miles east-southeast 
(Vustin City. Much of the surrounding 
C'.ntry is a treeless savanna, covered 



with fine pasturage. This is a great en- 
trepot for the cotton, sugar, and other 
products of the adjacent country. Hous- 
ton was settled in 1836, and was once 
the capital of Texas. The other hotels 
here are excellent. Its schools and edu- 
cational institutions are among the best 
in the State. Cars leave Houston by the 
Houston and Texas Central Railway, con- 
necting at Hempstead (50 miles) with 
daily stage lines for San Antonio and va- 
rious other towns in the interior. 

Awstiia, the capital of Texas, is 
beautifully situated on the north bank of 
the Colorado River, 200 miles by land 
from its mouth, and 230 miles west-north- 
west of Galveston. The seat of Govern- 
ment was established in 1844. The land- 
scape of the vicinage is strikingly pic- 
turesque. The Asylums for the Blind 
and Deaf and Dumb and the Lunatic 
Asylum are commodious and well-con- 
ducted institutions. A fine view is ob- 
tained from the Governor's house. The 
Springs in the vicinity of the city are 
much frequented by travellers. The 
present population of 5,000 is steadily in- 
creasing, and in due time the city will, no 
doubt, become a large and prosperous 
business mart. Prom New Orleans the 
route is by steamer to Galveston. For 
routes thence, see Galveston. Stringer'' s. 
Hotel is a well-kept house. 

Sam. Antonio, 80 miles northwest 
of Austin, is a thriving city, with a popu- 
lation of nearly 9,000. It is in Bexar Coun- 
ty, on the San Antonio River. Sawyer & 
Co.'s stages connect it with Austin. It is 
the centre of a prosperous trade with 
Mexico. The United States Arsenal is 
one of the principal objects of interest. 
Fort Alamo, in the immediate neighbor- 
hood, is worthy a visit. Here (March 6, 
1836) a garrison of Texans, attacked by 
an overwhelming Mexican force, perished 
to a man rather than yield; on which 
account it is sometimes spoken of as the 
Thermopylas of Texas. Many of the private 
residences are elegant. Missions San Jose, 
San Juan, and Conception, built by the 
Spaniards, are among the most interest- 
ing objects of the place. The main 
Plaza is still used by the Roman Cath- 
olic inhabitants as a place of assem- 
bly and worship. A daily line of stages 
leave for Victoria, where connection is 
405 



Brownsville.] 



TEXAS. 



[Matagokd 



made with the San Antonio and Mexican 
Gulf Railway for Zorrillo, Lavaca, and In- 
dianola. The leading hotels of San An- 
tonio are the Plaza and the Menger 
House. 

Bro^vmsville, formerly Fort 
Brown, is in Cameron County, opposite 
Matamoras, on the Rio Grande, 40 miles 
from its mouth. It is 300 south of 
Austin. Brownsville is one of the chief 
towns of the State, and has a popu- 
lation of about 2,000. It has a Cus- 
tom House and a thriving trade. It 
was named in honor of Major Brown, 
who commanded the garrison at the 
period of the Mexican war. He was 
mortally wounded by a shell trom the 
406 



enemy's batteries (May 6, 1846) whii 
General Taylor was occupied in opening 
communication with Point Isabel. Mai 
mo7-as, on the opposite side of the R 
Grande, is a populous Mexican town, wii 
an important trade. The American am 
under Taylor entered this place withoi 
opposition, after the victories of Pa 
Alto and Resaca de la Palma. 

Bastrop, on the Colorado River, i 
miles east by south from Austin, is 
trading point of some pretension. It 
accessible by steamboat from Matagord; 

Ma-tag-opda, at the mouth of tl 
Colorado, is a delightful summer reson 
Population 1,500. 



I: 






UlEANSAS.] 



AKKANSAS. 



[ASEANSAS. 



AEKAITSAS. 



Arkansas, which adjoins Texas on the 

brth, is also one of the younger States, 

Saving been admitted into the Union as 

ite as 1836. It was settled by the French 

If, Arkansas Post, about 1685, and until 

1803 formed part of the Territory of 

louisiana. Its history has no very marked 

ibints, beyond rude frontier contests 

lith the Indian tribes. It is a wild, des- 

ate region of swamps, marshes, and 

goons, for a hundred miles back from 

e Mississippi River. This great plain 

broken at intervals by elevations some- 

es thirty miles in circuit. At flood 

riods, when the land is inundated, these 

ints become temporary islands. Exten- 

e levees have been constructed along 

e banks of the river, by which means 

ach of this vast tract will eventually b& 

nverted into valuable land, with a soil 

the richest nature. The Ozark Moun- 

ins bisect the State unequally. The mid- 

3 regions, and the district north of the 
;ark ranges, have a broken and varied 

;rface. The climate, soil, vegetation, 
; d products of the lower portion of Ar- 
'jinsas, are all similar to those of the 
(tier Southwestern States ; while the hilly 
ijions above have, in all these respects, 
i|B more Northern characteristics. The 
mthern section is unhealthy, while the 
islands are as salubrious as any part of 

4 Union. The rich, black alluvion of 
1,3 river yields Indian corn in great 

Siuriance. This product, with cotton, to- 
jcco, rice, many varieties of grain, wool, 
Ijips, hemp, flax, and silk, constitute its 
tjiple products. The Forest Trees include 
(jtton-wood, gum, ash, and cj^ress in the 
llttom lands, and the usual vegetation 
([the North in the uplands. The sugar- 
I' pie, yielding large supplies of sap, is 
find here. Coal, iron, zinc, lead, gypsum, 
I uganese, salt, and other mineral prod- 



ucts exist here. Gold, too, it is said, hag 
been found. " There is," says a writer, 
" manganese enough in Arkansas to sup- 
ply the world ; in zinc it exceeds every 
State except New Jersey, and has more 
gypsum than all the other States except 
Texas put together ; while it is equally 
well supplied with marble and salt." Wild 
Animals range the forests and swamps in 
Arkansas as in Texas ; and quails, wild 
turkeys, geese, and other birds abound. 
Trout and other fish are plentiful in the 
rivers and streams. The ordinance of 
secession, which took (nominally) Arkan- 
sas out of the Union, was passed against 
strenuous and long-continued opposition, 
6th May, 1861. Arkansas is most easily 
and expeditiously reached from New Or- 
leans by steam packets, which leave daily 
for the Red and Ouichita, the Arkansas, 
and White Rivers. The same general direc- 
tion will serve the traveller from Memphis 
and other points on the Mississippi River 
between that city and New Orleans. The 
Arkansas River, rising in the Rocky 
Mountains, flows from the Indian Territory 
on the west, and traverses the middle of 
the State for 500 miles, gathering up in 
its long course the waters of many tribu- 
tary streams, and bearing them to the 
great floods of the Mississippi. The entire 
length of this river is 2,000 miles. It is 
navigable for steamers 800 mil-es. Next 
to the Missouri the Arkansas is the largest 
tiibutary of the Mississippi. The Wliite 
River is 800 miles in length. It is navi- 
gable from the Mississippi — into which it 
debouches, not far from the mouth 
of the Arkansas — 350 miles to the 
mouth of the Black River, and at 
some periods of the year 30 miles yet 
higher up, to Batesville. As along the 
other rivers of Arkansas, the cypress cov- 
ers the swamps of the Mississippi vicinage, 
407 



Little Rock.] 



ARKANSAS. 



[Camden. 



and gives place to the pine and other vege- 
tation higher up. This stream has numer- 
ous large affluents, among them the Big 
North Fork, Brvant's Fork, the Little 
North Fork, and Buffiilo Fork. The St. 
Francis^ the Red River, the Ouichita, 
and other waters, bear the same general 
characteristics as the streams already 
mentioned. There are no lakes in this 
State of especial extent or interest. 
Railways have not thus far been much 
needed in Arkansas, with her great facili- 
ities of water communication and her 
thin population. A route is now in prog- 
ress from Memphis to Little Rock. This 
line is completed at this time between the 
former city and Madison. 



lilTTIiE ROCK. 

300 miles from Napoleon ; 155 from 
Memphis. 

Hotel, Anthony House. Little Rock, 
the capital of the State, with a population 
of 5,000, is picturesquely situated on the 
top of a rocky bluff — the first of these 
characteristic precipices which is seen in 
the ascent of the Arkansas River, 300 
miles up. The State House is a handsome, 
rough-cast brick edifice. The Penitentiary 
is located here, and also a United States 
Arsenal. This was seized by the State 
troops early in the war of 1861-'65. Big 
Rock, two miles above, on the north bank 
of the river, is 200 feet high. The vicinity 
affords many pleasant drives and rides. 

Hot Springs is the name of a small 
village 55 miles west of Little Rock. 
These Springs were much resorted to be- 
fore the war. They are possessed of 
valuable medicinal qualities, and are es- 
pecially beneficial in rheumatic and syph- 
ilitic cases. They are upwards of thirty 
in number, and have an average tempera- 
ture of 145°. The hotels have baths and 
every convenience for visitors. Daily 
stage to Little Rock. 

EOUTES FROM LITTLE EOCK. 

Vasa Hiirem, the principal com- 
mercial point in Arkansas, is 100 miles 
408 



westrnorthwest of Little Rock, within five 
miles of the Indian Territory. It is 
pleasantly situated on the Arkansas 
River. 

l?ort Smitli is a thriving village on 
the Arkansas River, 163 miles west-north- 
west, by land, of Little Rock, and a few 
miles by the river above Van Buren. It 
is a military post, and has an extensive 
Indian trade. Poi-t Gibson is on tlie 
Neosho River, 23 miles above Fort Smith. 

Arkansas l?ost is upon the Ar-^ 
kansas River, some 50 miles from itsi 
mouth. It is an ancient settlement, having i 
been occupied by the French as early as 
1685. It was, for many years, the chief- 
depot of the peltries of the country farl 
around. Fort Hindman, a regular square 
bastioned work mounting 12 guns and 
garrisoned by 5,000 troops under General 
Churchill, surrendered to the Federal 
forces under Admiral Porter and General 
Sherman, January 11, 1863. 

Wapoleom, 125 miles southeast of > 
Little Rock, is upon the Mississippi River, 
at the mouth of the Arkansas. It is a 
busy and thriving place. The United 
States Marine Hospital here is a conspic- 
uous building. Boats running on the 
Mississippi and Arkansas Rivers, call 
here. Passengers will find the best ac- 
commodation the place affords on the* 
wharf boat. 

Cam<ien is on the Ouichita River, a 
tributary of the Red River, by which it iai 
reached by steamboat from New Orleans. 
It is distant 110 miles by stage from Lit^ 
tie Rock. It was a place of large cottoni 
export and trade before the war. Popu-i 
lation 8,500. 

Hatesville, with a population of 
about 2,000, is upon the White River, 400 
miles from its mouth. Small stealers 
ascend at nearly all seasons. Batesville 
is distant from Little Rock by stage 90 
miles; from Memphis, Tenn., 115 miles. 

Alabaster Mountain. — In Pike County, 
on the Little Missouri River, there is n 
mountain of alabaster, of fine quality, i 
and white as new-fallen snow. Ncdurm 
Bridge. — In the neighborhood of the Ala- 
baster Mountain there is a remarkabk 
natural bridge formation. 



li 



TENNESSEE. 



[Tennessee. 



TEN]^ESSEE 



The territory, which now forms the 
State of Tennessee, v/as settled before 
ny other of the lands west of the Alle- 
;hanies. Fort Loudon having been built 
>y adventurers from North Carolina as 
arly as 1151. The early history of the 
ountry is, like that of the neighboring- 
State of Kentucky, full of the records of 
jloody struggles with the Indian occu- 
pants of the soil. The little band of 
ioneers at Fort Loudon were not, of 
ourse, suffered to rest peacefully in their 
ew home : on the contrary, they were 
11 either butchered or driven away. In 

few years, the axe of the white man 
gain rang through the wild forests, and 
labins dotted the land, gradually cluster- 

iig into villages and towns. Tennessee 
'as admitted, in 1V96, as the sixteenth 
lember of the American Union. She 
layed a distinguished joart in the war of 
812. The landscape of Tennessee is 
aried and picturesque, though none of 
\e great natural wonders of the Repub- 
c lie within her borders. Her mountain, 
alley, and river scenery is exceedingly 
eautiful, and will become famous as it 
ecomes better known. The Cumberland 
ills, and other ranges of the Appalachian 
lain, pass through her western area, 
parating her from. North Carolina, and 
Hitting in the valleys of the Holston and 
her rivers. The height of the moun- 
in ridges and summits here is va- 
ously estimated at from 1,500 to 2,000 
et. They are most of them covered 
ith a rich forest growth to the top, 
here the axe and the plough have not 
langed their native character. The ccn- 
al portion of the State, stretching from 
mountains to the Tennessee liiver, 
'^s a broken surface, while beyond, 
ward the Mississippi, which makes the 
stern boundary, the country is com- 
18 



paratively level. Many valuable mineral 
products are found here — coal and iron in 
great abundance, and rich deposits of 
copper. Gold, too, has been detected, 
and silver, lead, zinc, manganese, mag' 
netic-iron ore, gypsum of superior quality, 
and a great variety of beautiful marbles, 
slate, nitre, burrstones, and limestone. 
Salt and mineral springs, the latter of a 
very valuable character, abound. The 
climate here, excepting in the river low- 
lands, is most agreeable and healthful; 
exempt alike from the winter severities 
of the North, and from the summer heats 
of the South. Immense quantities of live- 
stock are raised in Tennessee ; more, in- 
deed, than in any other part of the Union. 
It is, too, a vast tobacco, cotton, and 
corn-growing region. The culture of 
hemp, buckwheat, i^ye, oats, barley, ma- 
ple sugar, and many other agricultural 
products occupy the industry and contrib- 
ute to the wealth of the people. 

Rivers. — The Tennessee Hlver enters 
the State at its southeast extremity, from 
North Carolina, and forms the chief 
affluent of the Ohio. Its sources are 
among the Alleghanies, in Virginia, flow- 
ing under the names of the Clinch and- 
the Holston Rivers, until they unite at 
Kingston, in Tennessee. The first course 
of the main stream is southwest to Chat- 
tanooga, near the point where the States 
of Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama 
meet. From Chattanooga it turns tow- 
ard the northwest, until the obstruc- 
tion of the Cumberland Mountains bends 
its current southward again, and sends it 
oil' on a clc'(o2ir of 300 miles into Upper 
Alabama and the northeast corner of 
Mis.=;issippi. It gets back to Tennessee 
at this point, and, for the second time, 
traverses the entire breadth of the State, 
409 



Railways.] 



TENNESSEE. 



[Nashtille. 



crosses Kentucky, and reaches the end 
of its journey at Paducah, 48 miles from 
the mouth of the Ohio. The lengtli of 
the Tennessee proper is about 800 miles ; 
including its long-est. branch, the Holston, 
its waters extend 1,100 miles. The only 
important obstruction in the navigation 
of the Tennessee is the 20 miles stretch 
of rapids in Alabama known as the Mus- 
cle Shoals. (See Alabama.) Steamboats 
ascend the river nearly 300 miles, to the 
foot of these rapids, and above, to Knox- 
ville, on the Holston, nearly 500 miles. 
A railway supplies the missing link in the 
passage of the river, caused by the inter- 
vention of the rapids. Knoxville and 
Chattanooga are the principal places on 
the Tenneessee. In Alabama, Tuscumbia 
and Florence, and in Kentucky, Padu- 
cah, are on its banks. The upper waters 
of the Tennessee, and all that portion of 
the river in the eastern and middle parts 
of the State, are extremely beautiful, 
varied as the landscape is by wild moun- 
tain scenes and fertile pastoral lands. 
In the neighborhood of Chattanooga, 
where the Lookout Mountain lifts its 
bold crest, the scenery is especially 
attractive. It would be difficult to find 
a more charming picture than that from 
the summit of the Lookout Mountain, 
over the smiling valley of the Tennes- 
see, and the capricious windings of the 
river. The chief tributaries of the Ten- 
nessee besides the two branches from 
which it is formed — the Holston and 
the Clinch — are the Hiav/assee, from 
Georgia, the Hatchee, and the Duck 
River. All the waters of the State are 
ultimately absorbed by the Mississippi, 
its western boundary. The Cumber- 
Imid makes an extensive circuit of 250 
miles through Middle Tennessee. It is 
navigable for large boats to Nashville in 
good stages of water. 

Railways. — The Naaliville and Chatta- 
nooga Railway, 151 miles from Nashville, 
in the north central part of the State, to 
Chattanooga, near the Georgia and Ala- 
bama lines, connecting with the Georgia 
and South Carolhia Railway system. The 
LoinsviUe and Nashville Railicay, from 
Nashville north 185 miles to Louisville, 
Ky., via Bowling Green and Cave City, 
the point of departure for the Mammoth 
4J0 



Cave. The Tennessee and Alabama Rail- 
way, in operation southward to Colum- 
bia ; to be extended and connected 
with routes from Mobile, Alabama, and 
from New Orleans. Ji^asf Tenyiessee and 
Georgia Railway, from Knoxville so\ith- 
west 112 miles to Chattanooga, con- 
necting with the railways of that State. 
Now extended northeast, by the East Ten- 
nessee T»nd Virginia, to the railways of , 
Virginia ; and west, from Knoxville to t 
Nashville. The Memphis and Charleston f 
Railway, 310 miles from Memphis to « 
Chattanooga, partly on the southern bor- r 
ders of extreme Western Tennessee, cr 
through the upper part of Mississippi , 
and Alabama, into East Tennessee. The < 
Mississipj)i and Tennessee Railway, from ' 
Memphis south 99 miles to Grenada, i 
Miss., where it connects with the Missis- 
sippi Central Railway to Jackson and i 
New Orleans. The Nashville and North 
luestern Raihvay, from Nashville '78 miles 
to Johnsonville, where it connects with 
steamboats on the river. The Nashvilk ' 
and Dcaiur Railway, from Nashville 122 
miles south to Decatur, connecting with I 
trains on the Memphis and Charleston » 
Railway. The Nashville and Clarlcsville 
Railway, from Nashville 4*7 miles to ' 
State Line, where it makes connection 
with roads to Clarksville and Memphis. 



NASHVILLE. 

684 miles from Washington, 185 from i 
Louisville. 

Hotels. — Stacey House and St. Cloudy < 
both centrally located on ^Church Street. ' 

The former opened in January, 1866, is i 

newly furnished. Charges at both these • 

houses, $3.50 per day. ' ; 

Nashville, the capital of Tennessee, 'I 

and the most important city in the v 

Commonwealth, is most agreeably sit- i' 

uated on the south side of Cumberland v 

River, at the head of steamboat naviga- ; 

tion. The principal portion of the city i^ 

is constructed upon a ridge, the highest •, 

point of which is about 108 feet above \ 

low-water mark. The first settlement ij 

was made in 1*779-80 by a party of North j 

Carolina emigrants, and the town estal^ ; 
lisbed by act of the Assembly of that 



i 



Fashville.] 



TENNESSEE. 



[YlCINITT, 



tate, May, 1784, Owing to its healthy 
jcation, it is the resort of i^umbers from 
he lower country during the heat of sum- 
lier. Both the public and private build- 
ligs of Nashville are creditable to the 
•xste and liberality of its citizens. The 
\!aj>itol may justly be considered one of 
ae finest edifices on the continent. It is 
a elegant and imposing structure, and 
overs an eminence which rises to the 
eight of 19*7 feet above the river. The 
prner-stone was laid July 4, 1845. It 
built of fine fossilated limestone, much 
ke marble, which was quarried on the 
ot. Many of the blocls:s weigh ten tons 
,ch. Its dimensions are 270 by 140 
et. Its architecture is Grecian, consist- 
g of a Doric basement, and supporting 
its four fronts Ionic porticoes, modelled 
'ter those of the Erectheum at Athens, 
the centre of the building is a tower 
feet high. The basement or crypt of 
e building is used as a depository of 
ms. The principal story is approached 
a double fliglit of stairs, which lead to 
e chambers of the Senate and House of 
[cpresentatives, the Library, etc. The 
nale Chamber is a handsome apart- 
ent, 35 by 70 feet, with a gallery, the 
lumns supporting which, and the desks, 
e of the beautiful East Tennessee mar- 
The Hall of Representatives con- 
ins sixteen fluted columns of the Ro- 
an Ionic order, two feet eight inches in 
jameter, and twenty-one feet ten inches 
height, from the level of the galleries 
er the committee-rooms. The shafts of 
ese columns are all in one piece. The 
mensions of this room are 100 feet by 
— ^height of ceiling from floor, 40 feet, 
'le beauty and convenience in the design 
1 the principal story, so much superior 
1 the plan of the Capitol at Washington, 
that the committee-rooms are on tbe 
;me plan with, and surrounding the Hall 
Representatives. In the display of 
jjtive marbles in this hall, consists the 
g;atest attraction of this magnificent 
EJucture. Planking the public hall 
I vate stairways are constructed, leading 
f m the crypt to the various stories, and 
tithe roof A geometrical stairway leads 
ilm the level of tlic roof to the top of 
ts tower, where you land upon an arched 
ptform, which is intended for an Obscr- 
vlury. The tower is built from the 



foundation of solid stone, and contains 
four niches in the basement and eight in 
the principal story, with spacious halls 
leading to the right and left. The Library 
numbers upwards of J 2, 000 volumes. All 
the materials used in the construction of 
the Capitol were furnished within the 
State. Its cost was nearly one million 
dollars. Judged by the present standard 
of prices, it may be considered one of the 
cheapest as well as finest public buildings 
in the United States. 

The seat of Government has been al- 
ternately located at Columbia, Mur- 
freesboro', and Nashville. The Imnatic 
Asylum, built in 1833, and the Peniten- 
tiary, are large, imposing buildings. The 
latter has a front of 300 feet, and con- 
tains 200 cells. The City Hall occupies 
a prominent location on Market Square. 
The University of Nashville, founded in 
1806, is worthy a visit. Its Medical De- 
partment, opened in 1851, has nearly one 
hundred students. The mineral cabinet 
of the late Dr. Troost, is the richest pri- 
vate collection in the United States. Ap- 
pHcation to inspect it should be made to 
John B. Liudsey, Chancellor of the Uni- 
versity. The fine wire suspension bridge 
which formerly spanned the Cumberland 
River opposite the city, and which cost 
$100,000, was destroyed by the Confeder- 
ate authorities, February, 1862. NashviUe 
has two theatres ; one on Cherry, near 
Cedar, and the other known as the " Neio " 
Theatre, corner of Union and Summer 
Sts. The former, under the management 
of Messrs. Dufiield & Flynn, is a well-con- 
ducted establishment. The city has in- 
creased in population rapidly since the 
war, and now claims 45,000 inhabitants. 
No less than eight daily newspapers are 
published here. The social attractions of 
Nashville are not excelled by those of 
any city in the South. Nashville has im- 
mediate connection by rail with all the 
principal cities north and south, east and 
west. Boats to St. Louis and Cincinnati 
semi-weekly. 

Edgefield is a pleasant village opposite 
Nashville. Laid out in 1849." 

The Hermitage.^— T\\% traveller while 
in this vicinage will not fail to make 
a pilgrimage to the sopt sacred as the 
hearthstone of General and President 
Andrew Jackson. 

411 



Memphis.] 



TENNESSEE. 



[Chattanooga. ,, 



Mempliis, 420 miles from St. 
Louis, 209 from Nashville. Hotels, 
Gai/oso, Worsham, and Commercial. 
Memphis is finely situated upon the 
Third Chickasaw Bluff of the Mississippi, 
at tlie mouth of the Wolf River. It 
is in the southwest corner of the State, 
upon the site of old Fort Pickering. 
The city presents a striking appearance 
as seen from the water, with its es- 
planade several hundred feet in width 
sweeping along the bluff and covered 
with large warehouses. It is the chief 
town on the Mississippi between New 
Orleans and St. Louis. Railways unite it 
at all points with tlie neighboring country 
and with the most distant towns, north, 
east, south, and west. The hotel accom- 
modations are ample, though by no means 
excellent. The Theatre^ corner of Jeffer- 
son and Third Streets, is one of the best 
in the South. It has seats for upwards of 
800. A city railroad company is now 
organized, and it is expected that cars 
will soon be in operation on Main Street 
and the leading thoroughfares. It has 
steamboat connections daily with New 
Orleans, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Louisville, 
and all points on the Mississippi and Ohio 
Rivers. The Memphis Library Aswcia- 
iion has its rooms in the Post-Office build- 
ing, corner Third and Jefferson Streets. 
The collection of books numbers nearly 
2,000. The city is divided into eight 
wards. It contains twenty churches and 
tv.'cnty-four public schools, built mostly 
of brick. The State Female College is 
located at Greenwood, two miles south- 
east of the city. The Memphis Female 
College and St. Agnes Female Academy 
are flourishing institutions. Tlie popula- 
tion has more than quadrupled since 1850 
in spite of the war, and now numbers 
nearly 30,000. It fell into the possession 
of the United States forces, June, 1862, 
after a brief period of rebellion. 

Maai-freesl>©a''o', 32 niiles below 
Nashville, is passed on the railway 
route to Chattanooga and Atlanta. The 
town is built in a beautiful and pic- 
turesque valley. It is the seat of the 
Uuion University (Baptist), established 
in 1841. Murfreesboro' was the capital 
of Tennessee from 181*7 to 1827, when 
the State House was burnt. It is a 
pleasant point at which to make a short 
412 



stay. IStone River, where the battle was 
fought, 31st December, 1862, is one mile 
from the town. It is yet called Murfrees- 
boro' by the people in the vicinity. At 
Fisterville, 13 miles south of Murfrees- 
boro', are the remains of a fort. Bridge- 
port is a strongly fortified point at the 
crossing of Tennessee River. 

CIiSBttauoLOOg'a. is upon the Ten- 
nessee River, in the southern part of 
the State, where its boundary is touched 
by Alabama and Georgia. It is 250 
miles from Knoxville by water, and 160 
miles southeast of Nashville. It is 
a great railway centre, being the ter- 
minus of the Nashville and Chattanooga 
and Western and Atlantic Railways, which 
tap the Georgia I'outes, reaching to Knox- 
ville, and thence through Viriginia; and 
upon the great line from Charleston, S. C, 
to the Mississippi at Memphis. The Ten- 
nessee River is navigable two-thirds of 
the year, and at all times for small boats, 
from the Muscle Shoals to Chattanooga. 
Population about 7,000. (See Lookout 
Mountain, in the chapter upon Georgia, 
for the beautiful landscape surroundings 
of Chattanooga). The Crutchfield Hotise is 
a well-kept hotel near the railroad depot, 
Cliickainauga Battle-Field is distant from 
the city 7 miles southeast. The road 
thither is good for horses only. The 
Lookout Mountain \s within easy riding 
distance of Chattanooga. On the sum- 
mit of this beautiful spur the northwest 
corner of Georgia and the northeast ex- 
tremity of Alabama meet on the southern 
boundary of Tennessee. Almost in thei 
shadow of the Lookout heights lies thei 
busy tov.'n of Chattanooga. The country 
around the " Lookout " is extremely 
picturesque; the views all about tlje 
mountain itself are admirable, and noth- 
ing can exceed in beauty the charming 
valley of the Tennessee and its waters, as 
seen from its lofty summit. It is, too, in 
the immediate vicinage of other remarka- . 
ble localities, the Dogwood Valley, hard;; 
by, and the Nickajack Cave in Alabama.n 
The scenes on Lookout, best worth visit- 
mg, are Lake Seclusion, Lidah Falls, tliei 
Battle- Field, onA Rock City. Guides arc; 
in attendance throughout the visiting i 
season. W. R. M. Lunn, photographic 
artist, supplies excellent pictures of these 
several views. His gallery is on the ex- 



lOLUMBIA.] 



TENNESSEE. 



[Knoxville. 



teme point of the mountain. The fol- 

)wing brief outUne of the operations at 

|iOokout, gleaned from the official report 

if General Grant, will interest the reader : 

he Battle of Lookout Mountain, was 

)ught on the 23d November, 1863, be- 

,veen the foi'ces under Hooker, consist- 

'"• of Geary's division (12th coi'ps) and 

lirigade of Stanley's division (4th 

prps) of Thomas's army, and Osterhaus's 

vision (15th corps) of Sherman's army. 

ooker scaled the western slope of the 

ountain, drove the enemy from his rifle- 

ts on the northern extremity and slope 

the mountain. The fight lasted from ten 

four p. M., when the rebels gradually 

ithdrew, leaving their artillery, etc. This 

ttle has been greatly magnified. It 

|as really nothing more than an extended 

irmish. On the night of the 24:th the 

nion forces maintained an unbroken line 

ith open communications from the north 

td of Lookout Mountain through Chat- 

nooga valley, to the north end of Mis- 

on Eidge. 

The NicTcajacJc Cave. — The mouth of 
is wonderful cavern, which has only to 
known in order to be famous, is in 
abama, although otherwise it traverses 
orgia territory. (See chapter on Ala- 
ma.) 

There are some other mountain and 
terfall pictures in Georgia besides 
ose in the upper tier of counties, a few 
)lated scenes lower down standing as 
tposts to the hill-region, as Mount Cur- 
Lee, the Hock Mountain, and the Falls 
Towalaga. 

Coln]u1>£a. is upon the Duck River, 
miles south of Nashville, upon the 
ishville and Decatur Railway. Jackson 
illege is located here. The educational 
titutions of the town are important, 
le most prominent are the Female 
.'henceum, Female Institute, and Con- 



ference College. The Capitol of the State 
was once located here. 

afiiclcsoBa is upon the Forked Deer 
River, 180 miles below Nashville by stage. 
The Mobile and Ohio Railway passes here. 

SjeljasaoBa, the seat of the Cumber- 
land University, is 30 miles east of Nash- 
ville by stage. 

Mnoxville is upon the Holston Riv- 
er, four miles from its junction with the 
French Broad, 185 miles east of Nash- 
ville, and 204 miles southeast of Lexing- 
ton, Kentucky. It is connected by the 
East Tennessee and Georgia Railway with 
all the great routes of Georgia to the 
Atlantic, and with the highway to New 
Orleans, via Montgomery and Mobile, in 
Alabama ; also by the East Tennessee and 
Virginia Railway, with Richmond, Vir- 
ginia, and all the great thoroughfares of 
the country. The great route from Boston 
to New Orleans now passes through Knox- 
ville. The city is defightfully situated, 
and affords a pleasant place of resort. It 
was laid out in 1794, in which year it be- 
came the capital of the State, and so con- 
tinued until 1817. The University of 
East Tennessee, founded 1807, is a fine 
building. The State Asylum for the Deaf 
and Dumb is also a prominent edifice. 
Population 10,000. The place is famous 
for its manufacture of window-glass. 

Caves and Mounds in Tennessee. — ■ 
While in Eastern Tennessee the traveller 
should not fail to see some of the numer- 
ous caves in the Cumberland Mountains. 
Upon the Enchanted Rock, here, are some 
singular impressions of the feet of men 
and animals. In CoflFee County, not far 
from Manchester, there is an ancient stone 
fort, enclosed by a wall, upon which trees 
are growing, whose age is supposed to ex- 
ceed 500 years. This mysterious fortifi- 
cation is situated between two rivers, and 
occupies an area of 47 acres. 
413 



Kentucky.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[Kentcck 



KENTU CKY. 



" The highest phase of Western char- 
acter," says Mr. Tuckerman, "is doubt- 
less to be found in Kentucky, and in one 
view best illustrates the American in dis- 
tinction from European civilization. In 
the North this is essentially modified by 
the cosmopolite influence of the seaboard, 
and in the South by a climate which 
assimilates her people with those of the 
same latitudes elsewhere ; but in the West, 
and especially in Kentucky, we find the 
foundations of social existence laid hy the 
hunter — whose love of the woods, equality 
of condition, habits of sport and agricul- 
ture, and distance from conventionahties, 
combine to nourish independence, strength 
of mind, candor, and a fresh and genial 
spirit. The ease and freedom of social 
intercourse, the abeyance of the passion 
for gain, and the scope given to the play 
of character, accordingly developed a race 
of noble aptitudes ; and we can scarcely 
imagine a more appropriate figure in the 
foreground of the picture than Daniel 
Boone, who embodies the honesty, intel- 
ligence, and chivalric spirit of the State." 
The first visit of Boone to the wilderness 
of Kentucky was about the year 1*769, at 
which period he and his hardy companions 
made the earliest settlement at Boones- 
borough. In 1'7'74' Ilarrodsburg was 
begun, and Lexington a year or two after- 
wards. The pioneers in their western 
forests met with all the adventure their 
hearts could desire — more, indeed ; for so 
great was their exposure and suffering, 
for many long years, from the cruel enmity 
of the savage populations, that the country 
came to be known as "the dark and 
bloody ground." A memorable battle 
was fought near the Blue Lick Springs, 
August 19, 1*782, between the Ken- 
tuckians and the Indians — an unequal 
and disastrous conflict, in which the 
414 



colonists were routed, with a loss of sixt' 
men, among them a son of the gallail 
Boone. In 1778 Du Quesne, with h 
Canadian and Indian army, vras bravel^ 
repulsed at Boonesborough. Kentuclo 
came into the Union in 1792, being tl 
second State admitted after the Revolv 
tion. During the rebellion of 1861-'6 
Kentucky, from her geographical siti- 
ation on the border, occupied a difficu < 
and delicate position. For a long tin: 
she refused to side either with the Nort 
or the South. On the 4th May, 1861, a. 
election for delegates to the Border Sta(' 
Convention was held, at which the vol 
was overwhelmingly in favor of the Unioi 
The Convention met at Frankfort on tli 
27th of May. Volunteers from Kcntuck 
entered both the Union and Confederati 
service. On the 4th of July the Louisvill'. 
and Nashville Railway, the main thorougl 
fare of the State, was seized by the Coi 
federate soldiers, and shortly afterward i 
closed. The towns of Hickman and C( 
lumbus were occupied by Confederal 
troops under the command of Generi 
Polk. On the 18th September a skirmis^ 
between Zollicoffer's troops and theHoK' 
GTiards took place near Barboursvill( 
By 1st December the number of Feder; 
troops in the State amounted to 70,00( 
The forces of the enemy, imder Gencn 
Buckner, were estimated at 30,000. Earl 
in 1882 active military operations wer 
commenced, and continued throughoi 
the year, when the campaign in Kentuck 
was virtually abandoned by the rebels 
The physical aspect of Kentucky is on 
of changing and wonderful beauty, as th 
traveller will see in visiting some of be 
marvellous natural scenes. The Cumbc: 
land Mountains traverse the eastern com 
ties, and a line of hills follows the cour? 
of the Ohio River, with meadow stretchc 



M 



RiTKRS.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[Louisville 



between, sometimes ten and* even twenty 
miles in width. The State is well supplied 
with coal, iron, and other minerals. Salt 
and mineral springs of great repute 
abound. The chief agricultural staples 
of this region are hemp, flax, tobacco, and 
Indian corn. Of the first two of these 
products a greater quantity is raised here 
than in any other State. In the produc- 
tion of tobacco Kentucky is second only 
to Virginia, and in the product of Indian 
3om she stands third in the list. 

KiVERS. — The Ohio Hiver {orms the en- 
tire northern boundary of Kentucky, and 
she Mississippi washes all her western 
shore ; thus giving her, with the aid of the 
nany streams which come from the in- 
;er!or of the State into these great high- 
ways, the greatest possible facilities for 
ravel, and for the transportation of her 
staples to all markets. 

The Kentucky River, like most of the 
streams of the State, is remarkable for 
picturesque beauty. Its passage, in a 
ourse of 200 miles northwest to the 
)hio, is often through bold Umestone 
edges, ranged on either side of the 
larrow, dark channel in grand perpen- 
licular cliffs. " Deepen Trenton Falls," 
lays Mr. Willis, " for one or two hundred 
eet, smoothe its cascades into a river, 
,nd extend it for thirty miles between 
)erpendicular precipices, from three "to 
ive hundred feet high, and only a biscuit- 
oss across at the top — and you have a 
iver of whose remarkable beauty the 
i^orld is strangely ignorant." 

The Cumherland River is one of the 
irgest of the tributaries of the Ohio. It 
as its source in the Cumberland Moun- 
ains, in the southeast corner of the State, 
nd flows 600 miles, making a bend into 
'ennessee, and then traversing western 
[entucky. It is navigable for steamers 
00 miles to Nashville, and sometimes to 
!arthage, while small craft may ascend 
00 miles yet higher. About 14 miles 
•om Williamsburg there is a fine perpen- 
icular fall of 60 feet. 

The Lichhuf River flows from the 
;!umborland Mountains, 200 miles, into 
be Ohio, opposite Cincinnati. Steamboats 
^ay ascend 50 miles to Falmouth. This 
fver varies in width from 50 to 100 yards. 
\& banks are often lofty and precipitous. 



covered with huge forest trees. The 
South Licking and the North Fork are 
among its* tributaries. 

The Green River is about 300 miles in 
length. It rises in the eastern section of 
the State, and flows westward for some 
150 miles, through the limestone regions 
and by the Mammoth Cave, finally enter- 
ing the Ohio nine miles above Evansville, 
Indiana. It is navigable in high water, 
and by the aid of locks and dams, for 
steamboats, 200 miles to Greensburg. 

The Salt River, named in token of the 
Salt Springs which abound in its vicinity, 
enters the Ohio 22 miles below Louisville. 
This is the fabled retreat of defeated poli- 
ticians and other unhappy adventurers. 

The Tennessee River rises among the 
Cumberland Mountains of Eastern Ken- 
tucky, and flows "70 miles within the 
limits of this State. (See Tennessee.) 

Railways. — The Louisville and NasJi- 
ville Railway from Louisville, via Shep- 
herdsville (18 miles), Lebanon Junction 
(30), EUzabethtown (42), Munfordsville 
(YS), Cave City (85), Bowling Green (114), 
to Nashville (185). Immediate connec- 
tion at Louisville and Nashville with 
roads North and South. 

Lebanon Branch (L. and N. R. R.) from 
Lebanon Junction (30), Lebanon (6d), 
Danville (95), to Stanford, 105 miles. 

The Kentucky Central (Covington and 
Lexing-ton) Railway from Covington (op- 
posite Cincinnati), via Falmouth (39), 
Cynthiana (66), Paris (80), to Lexington 
(99 miles), where it connects with the 
Lexington and Southern Kentucky Rail- 
way to Nicholasville (112 miles). 

The Louisville and Frankfort and Lex- 
ington and Frankfort Railway, 94 miles 
from Louisville to Lexington, via Frank- 
fort. 

LOUISVILLE. 

133 miles from Cincinnati by river, 
94 from Lexington. To reach Louisville 
from Boston, New York, Philadelphia, 
Baltimore, and intermediate places, see 
Cincinnati and routes to that city. 
From Cincinnati, take the steamer down 
the Ohio River, 133 miles to Louis- 
ville; or the Ohio and Mississippi Rail- 
way 87 miles to Seymour, and thence by 
415 



LOUISVILLE.J 



KENTUCKY. 



[Vicinity. 



the Jeifersonville Rail-syay 59 miles to 
JcfFei'sonville, opposite Louisville. This 
is the shortest land route. Total distance 
to Louisville from Cincinnati, 146 miles. 
Louisville may also be reached less di- 
rectly but more pleasantly from Cincinnati 
by the Kentucky Central Eailway (Cov- 
ington and Lexington), 99 miles to Lex- 
ington, and thence by the Louisville and 
Lexington Railway via Frankfort, 94 
miles. The distance from Cincinnati to 
Louisville, by this route, is 193 miles. 
Louisville may be reached from Pitts- 
burg, the western terminus of the Penn- 
sylvania Central Railway, from Philadel- 
phia or from Wheeling, the western ter- 
minus of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, 
\)j steamboat down the Ohio. From St. 
Louis there is railway communication by 
the Ohio and Mississippi to Mitchell (213 
miles), and thence by the Louisville, New 
Albany and Chicago Railway, 61 miles. 
From Indianapolis the route is by the 
Jeifersonville Railway, 108 miles. 

Hotels. — The Louisville Hotel, on Main 
Street, is a commodious and well-kept 
house. The Natioyial and United States 
Hotels are centrally located. 

Louisville, with a population of about 
80,000, is the chief city of Kentucky. It 
is located at the Falls of the Ohio, where 
Bear Grass Creek enters that river. The 
topography is most agreeable, affording 
fine %'iews from many parts of the terrace 
elevation of '70 feet. The Falls, which 
are quite picturesque in appearance, may 
be seen from the town. In high stages 
of the water they almost entirely disap- 
pear, and steamboats pass over them ; but 
when the water is low, the whole width 
of the river, which is scarcely less than a 
mile, has the appearance of a great many 
broken rivers of foam, making their way 
over the falls. The river is divided by a 
fine island, which adds to the beauty of 
the scene. To obviate the obstruction to 
the ntivigation caused by the falls, a c-anal 
two and a half miles in length has been 
cut round them, to a place called Ship- 
pingsport. It was a work of immense 
labor, being for the greater part of its 
course cut through the solid rock. The 
total cost of the work was little short of 
a million dollars. The extent of the city 
riverward is over two miles. The course 
of the leading streets is in this direction. 
416 



They are, for the most part, wide, well 
paved, and shaded with trees. The fol- 
lowing are among the jnost prominent 
buildings : the City Hall, the Court House, 
on Jeiferson Street ; the Louisville Uni- 
versity Medical College, corner Ninth and 
Chestnut Streets ; the Blind Asylum, • 
Male and Female High Schools, the Cus- 
tom House, and Post-Ofiice, corner Greene 
and Third Streets ; Masonic Temple, cor- 
ner Fourth and Greene. Among the 
church edifices of the city the most note- 
worthy are : the Cathedral, on Walnut 
Street, corner of Fifth ; St. Paul's Epis- 
copal, at the intersection of Walnut and 
Sixth ; and the First Pi'esbyterian Church, 
opposite. The First Baptist Church is 
also an imposing structure. The Mercan- 
tile Library contaias upwards of 7,000 
volumes. The collection of the Histori- 
cal Society contains many rare and val- 
uable works relative to the early settle 
ment of the State. The " Journal " (still 
conducted by the veteran poet and politi- 
cian Prentice) and the " Democrat " are 
the leading newspapers published in the 
city. The Louisville Theatre, another of 
the " institutions " of the city, is at the 
southeast corner of Fourth and Greene 
Streets. " Wood's " Theatre, also a pop- 
ular place of resort, is at the intersection 
of Jefferson with Fourth Streets. Tem- i ' 
perance Hall, in Market Street, is used t 
for lectures, fail's, etc. The chief exports 
of the city are tobacco, pork, hemp, and 
flour. A visit to the tobacco warehouses, 
which are large and numerous, will repay 
the stranger who finds himself with the v 
necessary leisure. 

VICmiTT. 

Jeffersonville, on the Indiana shore, op- 
posite Louisville, is the terminus of the 
railway to Indianapolis, and a place of 
much trade. 

Portland, a village on the Ohio River, 
at the foot of the falls, three miles below • 
Louisville. 

Silver Creek, four miles below the city, 
on the Indiana side, is a beautiful rocky Jj 
stream, and a favorite fishing and picnic II 
place of the Louisville ruralizers. Tliore ■' 
is a small but fair hotel here. It is 
reached by ferry from Portland. 

Harrod's Creek, eight miles up the 



JOTINGTON.] 



KENTUCKY. 



Lexington. 



}3hio, affords a pleasant excursion. The 
pexington and Bardstown turnpikes afford 
inany pleasant drives through a pretty 
.md well-cultivated country. The road 
long the borders of Bear Grass Creek, 
n the direction of Lexington, is very 
grecable. The fine forest vegetation, 
^he charming park-like groves, the hemp- 
ields and the blue-grass pastures, all 
lelp to furnish delight in the Louisville 
ides and rambles. 

Gave Hill Cemetery is much admired 
or its monuments. It is in the imme- 
liate suburb of the city eastward. (For 
xcursion to the Mammoth Cave, see 
ouisville and Nashville Railway.) 
Coviiag'toiEi, opposite Cincinnati, is 
ne of the principal cities of Kentucky, 
ith a population of about 17,000. It is 
pon the Ohio, immediately below its 
oint of confluence with the Licking, 
cross the latter stream is the suburban 

iown of Newport. Steam ferries unite 
ovington with Cincinnati, and the great 
ispension bridge will soon make a yet 
etter means of communication thence, 
'he city is built upon a broad and beau- 
iful plain, very much after the topog- 
iphy of the great Ohio city opposite, to 
diich, indeed, it may be regarded as sub- 
rban. This is the seat of the Western 
'heological College, a prosperous and 
chly-endov/ed institution. There are 
ere large manufactories of hemp, silk, 
ad tobacco, also several large roUing- 
lills. The business of packing pork and 
eef is also extensively carried on. It 
the nortliern terminus of the Kentucky 
entral Railway. 

Novport, across the Licking River 

om Covington, has a population of 

Dout 14,000. Like the neighboring cit- 

s of Covington and Cincinnati, to which 

owes its prosperity, it is pleasantly and 

JVantageously situated. It will prob- 

ly soon absorb the adjoining villages 

E" Jamestown and Brooklyn. A suspen- 

on bridge connects it with Covington. 

The Railway route to Lexington from 

ovington runs southerly to the thriv- 

towns of Falmouth, Cynthiana, and 

laris, 99 miles to Lexington. At Fal- 

outh the road crosses the south branch 

the Licking River, along the banks 

ivhich stream the road mainly runs 

lar as Cynthiana. At Paris, 40 



miles further, is the confluence of the 
Hueston and Stony Creeks, which are also 
crossed over a stone viaduct. Paris is 
the county seat of Bourbon County, the 
centre of one of the finest stock-raising 
districts of the State. 

FaliM-OMtla (39 miles), in Pendleton 
County, is prettily situated on a beautiful 
plain, watered by the Licking and the 
South Branch, which here unite their wa- 
ters. The neighborhood abounds in fine 
views. 

Cymtlfiiaiaa (66 miles), on the south 
fork of the Licking River, was incorpo- 
rated in 1802. It has accommodation 
for visitors. Fine fishing in the vicinity. 

l?jai°is (80 miles), the county town of 
Bourbon County, is the centre of one of 
the finest farming districts of the State. 
The manufacture of the famous Bourbon 
whiskey is extensively carried on in sev- 
eral large distilleries. To lovers of that 
somewhat popular beverage, no stronger 
inducement to sojourn here is deemed 
necessary. The Blue Lick Springs are 
reached by stage from this point. 

Sjcximg'toaa, 29 miles from Frank- 
fort ; 94 from Louisville ; 100 from Cin- 
cinnati. 

Hotel, the Plicenix House, an excellent 
house, newly arranged and refurnished. 
Lexington is one of the most opulent and 
beautiful of Kentucky's cities. Few in- 
land towns of the Union are more delight- 
fully situated, or afford greater attractions 
to the tourist or traveller. It is situated 
on the lower fork of the Elkhorn River. 
In population and trade it is the second 
city of the State. The streets are regular, 
broad, well paved, well built, and delight- 
fully shaded. Here is the seat of the 
Kentucky University, on the ruins of 
Transylvania University, the Law and 
Medical schools of which are held in high 
repute. This has been established in 1863. 
It has an endowment of $500,000. The 
students number 250. The University 
Library numbers over 25,000 volumes. 
The State Lunatic Asyhmi occupies a 
prominent locale. The city was founded 
in 1'7'76, and incorporated in 1782. Its 
population exceeds 10,000. Lexington 
Cemetery, in the west end of the city, is 
a pretty, sequestered spot, much frequent- 
ed by visitors to Lexington. It contains 
60 acres, mostly woodland. It was laid 
417 



ASULAND.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[Frankiokt. 



out in 1849, in what was known as Bos- 
tvoll'a woods, and dedicated June, 1850. 
About 4,000 interments have been made 
up to this time, 18C6. The chief attraction 
of the phice is the monument to Ken- 
tucky's iUustrious statesman, IIenrtClay. 
It stands on an eminence near the centre 
of the ground, and can be seen for miles 
around. The corner-stone was laid July 
4, 185*7, and the structure completed in 
1860, at a cost of $50,000— the State 
subscribing $20,000. 

Aslal5iH4l, the home of Clay, is 
in the immediate vicinity. The old 
Clay homestead stood about a mile 
and a half from Lexington, and the lo- 
cality is, of course, the chief object of in- 
terest in this neighborhood. " Walking 
slowly and thoughtful up," says Mr. Gree- 
ley, " a noble avenue that leads easterly 
from Lexington, the traveller finds the 
road terminating abruptly in front of a 
modest, spacious, agreeable mansion, only 
two stories in height, and of no great ar- 
chitectural pretensions. Mr. Clay lived at 
Ashland between forty and fifty years. 
The place bore the name when he went to 
it, probably, as he said himself, on ac- 
count of the ash timber with which it 
abounds, and he made it one of the most 
delightful retreats in all the West. The 
estate is about 600 acres large, all under 
the highest cultivation, except some 200 
acres of park which is entirely cleared of 
underbrush and small trees, and is, to use 
the words of Lord Morpeth, who stayed 
at Ashland nearly a week, the nearest ap- 
proach to an English park of any in this 
counti'y. It serves for a noble pasture, 
and here Mr. Clay had some of the finest 
horses and cattle in America. The larger 
part of the farm is devoted to wheat, rye, 
hemp, etc., and the crops look most splen- 
did. Mr. Clay paid great attention to the 
ornamentation of the laud Avith beautiful 
shade trees, shrubs, flowers, and fruit or- 
chards. From the road which passes the 
place on the northwest side, a carriage- 
way leads up to the house, lined with lo- 
cust, cypress, cedar, and other rare trees, 
and the rose, jasmine, and ivy clamber 
about them, and peep through the grass 
and the boughs like so many twinkling 
fairies. The mansion is nearly hidden 
from the road by the surrounding trees ; 
and is as quiet and secluded, save to the 
418 



throng of pilgrims continually pouring 
thither, as though it were a wilderness. 
After the death of Mr. Clay, the estate of 
Ashland was sold at public auction, but 
was purchased by James B. Clay, the 
great statesman's eldest son, and so 
the honored and beloved little homestead 
remains yet, happily, in the family pos- 
session. Let it be sacredly and forever 
preserved." The visitor to Ashland now 
will find the scene much changed since 
Mr. Greeley's visit. It is stripped of much 
of its beauty. The old homestead has 
been replaced by a house of more pre 
tentious style, but in other respects as 
much like the old one as it was possible 
to make it. It is occupied by the widow 
of the late Colonel Clay, who kindly al- 
lows it to be shown to visitors. It has 
recently been resold for a public purpose. 

■^VoocltoBti'M, the estate of Mr. R. 
A. Alexander, is in Woodford County, 
near Spring Station, on the Lexington 
and Frankfort Railway, nearly equidistant 
from these two points. It contains over 
2,000 acres of land, and is one of the 
largest and most valuable -farms in the 
State. The collection of thorough-bred 
stock at Woodburn is the finest in the 
United States. The famous thorough-bred 
stallion Lexington, purchased from bis 
late owner, Mr. Tenbroeck, at a cost of 
$15,000, is among the many and varied 
attractions of Woodburn. It is an easy 
walk from the Spring Station to Mr. Alex- 
ander's mansion. 

Fi-aialilbi't, the capital of Ken- 
tucky, is situated on the east bank of the 
Kentucky Eiver, 60 miles above its en- 
trance into the Ohio. The site of the 
town is a deep valley, surrounded by pre- 
cipitous hills. The river flows between deep 
limestone banks, the quarries of which 
yield a fine stone or marble, of which 
many of the houses are built. The heights 
on the northeast afford fine peeps at the 
beautiful scenery of the Kentucky waters. 
The ruins of the State Capitol occupy - 
an eminence, midway between the river 
and the upper end of the valley. It was 
a fine structure, built of marble, quarried 
in the neighborhood. Here, too, is the 
State Penitentiary. The town is coimeet- 
ed with the village of South Frankfort, 
across the river, by a chain bridge. Pop- 
ulation some 8,000' During the late rebel- 



i 



Paducah.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[The Mammoth Cave. 



lion the city was occupied by Confederate 
cavalry on the 6th September, 1862, but 
tlie damage to the capitol buildiugs was 
caused accidentally by fire in December, 
1865. 

Rossersville, near Richmond, 50 
miles south of Frankfort, was the scene 
of a fight between General Kirby Smith's 
forces and a small Federal force, in which 
the latter were routed. 

IIiu*i*od@1>ii.i*g,', a town of over 
3,000 people, and the oldest settlement in 
Kentucky, is upon an eminence near Salt 
River, about 30 miles below Frankfort. 
iThe first cabin built in the State was 
erected here by Captain James Harrod, 
in 1774. It is the seat of Bacon College, 
founded in 1836, and of a ililitary Acad- 
emy. The greatest attraction, however, 
of Harrodsburg, is its celebrated mineral 
springs, which make it the most famoi^s 
?ummer resort in the State. Good roads 
3xtend throughout the neighborhood. (See 
\Harrodsburg Springs.) 

]?Iiiiiford.s^"ille, on the right 
bank of Green River, 73 miles south of 
Louisville and 100 miles south of Frank- 
fort, is a place often visited by tourists 
through this section. Near the village is 
I remarkable spring, and six miles east 
ther natural curiosities. (See Sink-Holes 
)/ Kentucky.) The neighborhood was 
he scene of numerous encounters be- 
ween Generals Buell and Bragg, in the 
ampaign of 1862. The fine bridge over 
reen River, destroyed during the war, 
|ias been replaced. Twelve miles south 
f Muufordsville is Cave City Station, the 
oint of departure for the Mammoth Cave. 

Pa<liica.li. is upon the Ohio, just be- 
^a'w the mouth of the Tennessee, 340 miles 
from Louisville, 473 miles from Cincin- 
lati. Paducah bears the name of an 
ndian chief who once lived in the neigh- 
jorhooi On account of its favorable 
ituation at the confluence of two great 
ivcrs, it was a point of much importance 
luring the war, for the shipment of am- 
^ninition and sujiphes. Population 6,000. 
' Ma j-sville, founded in 1784, is upon 
be Oliio River, 60 miles above Cincinnati, 
nd 60 miles northeast of Lexington. 
Lt Portsrnouth, Ohio, some 50 miles 
;bove, on the Ohio River, railway lines 
iome in from all parts of the country, 
orth and east. Maysville is upon Lime- 



stone Creek, whose name it formerly bore. 
The position of the town is in the midst 
of a varied hill-landscape. It is, in busi- 
ness and population, the foui'th city of 
Kentucky, and its greatest hemp mart. 
This is the entrepot for the merchandise 
and produce imported and exported by 
the northwest section of the State. 
Among the principal public buildings are 
the City Hall, a Hospital, Jail, and several 
churches. Population 6,000. (For towns 
in Kentucky on the Ohio River, see Ohio 
River.) 

Tlae MainamuotSa Cave. — 
Among the many resorts and objects of 
interest with which Kentucky abounds, 
the most noteworthy, as well as most 
frequented, is this famous cavern. The 
route thither is not difiicult. Tourists 
from the Eastern cities will best reach it 
via Cincinnati and Louisville, thence by 
the Louisville and Nashville Railway to 
Cave City, 85 miles south of Louisville. 
This point is within 9 mUes of the mouth 
of the cave. From the south and west, 
travellers will of course take the railway 
from Nashville for Cave City. Steamers 
ply on the Green River from Louisville to 
within the distance of a mile only of the 
cave. Parties arriving at Cave City by 
the night trains can " lay over " (as the 
period of rest is technically known in this 
vicinity) at the hotel there, and proceed 
to the cave the following morning. A 
stage connects with each train during the 
season — fare, $1.00 ; carriages and horses 
for hire. The cave is believed to extend 
under the ground passed over in the 
route of nine miles from the railway sta- 
tion. Four miles from Cave City, the 
visitor will pass a small cave on the left 
of the road, known as the Indian Cave. 
It contains some of the most beautiful 
specimens of the stalactite and stalagmite 
formations to be found in the cave 
region. In size, however, it is a mere 
pigmy beside its gigantic neighbor, the 
Mammoth. The approaches have been 
sadly interfered with during the war. It 
is proposed to restore them and the cave 
to their original condition, and if possible 
to improve them. The proprietor, Sam. 
B. Young, resides at Cave City. The 
Cave Hotel, as before stated, is 9 miles 
from the railway station, and is reached 
with ease in two hours when the roads 
419 



The Mammoth Cave.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[The Mammoth Cate. 



are in good order, which of late years 
has not been tlie case. Mr. Ouseley, the 
former proi:)rietor, has disposed of the 
property to Messrs. Kogers and Proctor, 
who have made recent additions and im- 
provements. Visitors will now find it a 
pleasant stopping-place. 

A short walk from the hotel brings ns to 
the mouth of the cave. The journey 
through these stupendous vaults and 
passages is often long and toilsome, 
desjjite the marvels which everywhere 
beguile the way. As it takes days to 
see these wonderful scenes, so it would 
require many pages to describe them, 
which fact compels us to be content 
with the briefest catalogue of the chief 
points of interest. Accompanied by 
a guide (it is not safe to attempt the 
passage without one), and aided by a 
lighted flambeau or oil-lamp, the visitor 
may now set out on his underground 
journey. After exploring the narrows, 
ante-chambers, and the Audubon Aveince, 
which is a mile in length, 50 or 60 feet 
high, and as many wide, we return and 
pass through the vestibule for a second 
time, entering the main cave or Grand 
Gallery, a mighty tunnel of many miles 
extent. The luntucki/ Cliffs passed, we 
descend some 20 feet to the Rotunda, and 
thence to another apartment immediate- 
ly underneath it, known as the Church. 
This is a grand apartment, 100 feet in 
diameter, with a roof formed of one 
solid seamless rock, suspended 03 feet 
overhead. Nature has supplied these 
solemn halls with a natural pulpit, and a 
recess where a mighty organ and a count- 
less choir coidd be placed. Keligious 
services have been pei'formed in the " dim 
religious light " of torches, imder this mag- 
nificent roof. The Gothic Avenue is 
reached by a detour from the main cave, 
and a descent of some SO feet. It is two 
miles in length, 40 feet wide, and 15 feet 
high. This place was cnce called the 
Hmtnfcd Chamber. Louiaci's Hoioer, Vul- 
ccoi's Stithy, and the new and old JRegister 
Rooms, are now passed in succession. 
The Gothic Chapel rivals all the marvels 
of the highest and nicest art, in the 
strength, beauty, and proportions of its 
grand columns, and its exquisite orna- 
mentation. The Dcvifs Arm Chair is 
a large stalagmite pillar, in the centre of 
420 



which is a spacious seat, grand enough 
for the gods. After passing numerous 
other stalactites and stalagmites, we look, 
in succession, at NapoleorCs Breastwork, • 
the Elephant'' s Head, and the Loverh 
Leap. This last scene is a large pointed 
rock, more than 90 feet above the floor, i 
and projecting into a grand rotunda. Just 
below the Lover's Leap, a detour may be 
made to the lower branch of the Gothic 
Avenue, at the entrance of which we 
see an immense flat rock, called GaiA- ' 
ivood^s Dining-Room ; and to the right, 
a beautiful basin of water, named the 
Cooling-Tub. Beyond is Flint Pit. f^till 
pursuing our eletour, we pass, one after 
the other, JVapoleon^s Dome, the Cinder 
Banlcs, the Crystal Pool (Lake Purity), 
Sedt Cave, and a wonderful place, still 
beyond, called Annetti's Borne, through a 
crevice of which is a waterfall. Eeente^ 
ing the main or Grand Avenue, v/e arrive 
soon at the Ball-Room, where Nature has 
provided every necessary fitting of gallery 
and orchestra. Willie''s 8p)'>'™9 ^^^ its 
pleasant story, which will dehght the 
wondering visitor until he is almost petri- 
fied with astonishment at the sight of 
the great rock, knov/n as the Gianfs 
Coffin. Here begin the incrustations, 
ever varied in form and character, which 
are so much the delight of all visitors. 
The Giant's Coffin passed, we sweep round 
the Great Bend. Opposite is the Sick- 
Room. The Star Chamber is a splendid 
hall, with perpendicular arches on each 
side, and a flat roof. In the main avenue 
the side rocks are of a light color, and 
are strongly relieved against the dark 
ceiling, which is covered with countless 
sparkling substances, resembling stars. 
By a judicious display of lamps and Ben- 
gcd lights in this apartment, an almost 
magical effect is produced. It forms cue 
of the most — to many, the most attrac- 
tive feature of the cave. Wrighfs Rofmv- 
da (the Cross Room) has a ceiling of 400 
feet span, and yet not a single pillar to . 
uphold it. The Black Chambers contain 
ruins which .remind us of old baronial 
castle walls and towers.- Through the 
Big Chimneys we ascend into an upper 
room, about the size of the main cave. 
Here are heard the plaintive whispers of 
a distant waterflill ; as we come nearer, the 
sound swells into a grand roar, and we 



J 



The Mammoth Oate.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[Springs, 



are close to the cataract. To enter the 
place called the Solitary Chamber^ by 
the way of the Htcmble Chute, we have 
to crawl upon our hands and knees for 
15 or 18 feet beneath a low arch. Here 
is the Fairy Grotto, the character of 
which admirably realizes the promise of 
its name. The Chief City (Temple) in 
Ithe main cave (Grand Avenue) beyond the 
\liocky Pass, is 200 feet in diameter, and 40 
peet high. The floors are piled with rock, 
[which give it the appearance of a ruined 
city. Other localities, in the direct pas- 
sage of the cave, as in some of tlie many 
detours, are appropriately named the 
Sleeps of Time, the Covered Pit, the Side- 
Saddle, the Bottomless Pit, the Labyrinth, 
the Dead Sea, and the Bandifs Hall. 
The Long Route. — On entering upon the 
Long Route, the visitor leaves the main 
jave at the foot of the Giant's Coffin, and 
lasses into the Deserted Chamber. The 
listance from the mouth of the cave to 
;he Maelstrom, at the end of the Long 
loute, is 9 miles. Passing Wooden-Bowl 
Cave, llartha^s Palace, Shelby''s Dome, we 
|ross the Bridge of Sighs, and enter 
,nother apartment, where those who fre- 
[uent the cave, and are therefore supposed 
know something of its mysteries, are 
11 the habit of resting in a narrow, tor- 
uous avenue, called and known as Rev- 
UiTs' Hall. Fat Hail's Misery appropri- 
tely follows the Hall of Feasting and 
levelling. Crossing the river Styx by a 
atural bridge, we reach Lake Lethe, 
•hich visitors, desiring to extend their ex- 
loratious further, cross in boats. From 
ake Lethe the visitor is introduced to 
pe Great Walk, at the termination of 
liich he can take a boat on Echo River, 
[hich has a course of three quarters of a 
ile within the cave, and finally finds its 
itlet in Green River. Silliman^s Avenue 
still beyond. Parties visiting the cave 
Wffipient numbers, and accompanied 
a tiand, frequently sojourn here and 
ijoy the festivities of the Ball-Room. 
isitors, if they feel so disposed, may 
vel 200 miles in the different avenues 
d labyrinthine walks of this wonderful 
Proper care will insure against all 
k of danger. Colds, instead of being 
iutracted, are more often cured by the 
feit. Nowhere is the air in the slightest 
gree impure. So free is the cave from 



reptiles of every kind, that St. Patrick 
might be supposed to have exerted his 
fabled annihilating power in its favor. 
Combustion is everywhere perfect. No 
decomposition is met with. The waters 
of the springs and rivers of the cave are 
habitually fresh and pure. The tempera- 
ture is equable at all seasons, at 59 de- 
grees Fahrenheit. White's Cave is situat- 
ed about half a mile from the Cave Hotel. 
It is remarkable for the beauty of its 
stalactite formations. It is easily ex- 
plored, being but 500 yards long. Dia- 
mond (Rioherson's) Cave lies on the road to 
Indian and Mammoth Caves, half a mile 
west of the railway. Its chief beauty 
are its stalactite formations. 

Harrodsburg Springs. — This is one of 
the most fashionable watering-places of 
Kentucky, and is, during the season, " the 
grand field of tournament for Western 
flirtation, and the gathering-point for 
politicians out of harness, and for such 
wealthy Westerners and Southerners as 
like to spend their money on the side of 
the AUeghanies that slopes toward home." 
The hotel here, with all its surroundings 
and appointments, is most admirable. Dr. 
Graham, the liberal proprietor, has already 
expended more than $300,000 upon the 
embellishment of the place; and so ex- 
pended it, that it all sensibly contributes 
to the comforts and enjoyments of his 
guests. (For route, see Harrodsburg, 
a7ite.) 

Knob Lick is an interesting spot within 
excursion distance (15 miles) of the Har- 
rodsbui'g Springs. The knobs or hillocks 
here are from 100 to 200 feet high, more 
or less conical ; some of them insulated, 
others connected by crumbling isthmuses ; 
the whole forming a group of barren 
conoidal eminences, which are finely con- 
trasted with the deep verdure of the sur- 
rounding plain. 

The DeviVs Pulpit is a wonderful 
passage in the bold landscape of the 
Kentucky River. It is accessible from 
Harrodsburg in a twenty-mile excursion. 
The Blue Lick Springs is a watering- 
place of high repute, on the Licking River, 
in Nicholas County. These springs con- 
tain soda, magnesia, lime, sulphuretted 
hydrogen, and carbonic acid, in combina- 
tion with muriates and sulphates. A 
battle was fought here between the settlers 
421 



Springs.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[Natural Biudgk. 



and Indians, August 19, 1*782. (For route 
thither, see Paris, ante.) 

Drennon Sprhiffs (black and salt sul- 
phur) are upon the banks of the Ken- 
tucky, in Henry County. They may be 
reached by steamboat from Louisville. 

Poplar Mountain Springs are upon 
the Poplar Mountain top, in Clinton 
County, four miles from Albany. The 
scenery in this vicinage is remarkable for 
its beauty. Upon Indian Creek, not far 
from the springs, there is a perpendicular 
waterfall of 90 feet. 

The White Sulphur Springs are in 
Grayson County, four miles from Litch- 
field. They are very numerous, Tvithin a 
small area. 

The Tar and Breckenridge Wliife Sul- 
phicr Springs are in Breckenridge County, 
four miles from Cloverport. They are 
readily accessible from the Ohio River. 
The Breckenridge coal is found in this 
vicinity. 

The Tar and Sulphur Springs are upon 
Green River, in Davis County, near the 
" Old Yernon Settlements." There are 
other springs of reputation in this vicinity. 
Tlie Eseulajna Spri?igs (chalybeate and 
white sulphur) are in a beautiful valley of 
Lewis County. 

The Pox and Phillips Springs are in 
the abundant spring region of Fleming 
County. 

The Letionian Springs (sulphur) are 
upon the Bank Lick Road, near the Ohio 
River, and about four miles from Coving- 
ton. This is a pleasant excursion point 
from Cincinnati. The Parroqnet Springs 
are near Shepherdsville, in Bullitt County. 

The Sink-JIoks of KcntucJcg. — Of these 
curious cavities or depressions in the sur- 
face of the ground, known as sinks, re- 
markable examples are found in Ken- 
tucky. Sinking Creek, in Breckenridge 
County, suddenly disappears, and is not 
seen again within a distance of half a 
dozen miles. Near Munfordsville, in Hart 
County, . there is a strange spring con- 
nected with a mill-pond, the waters of 
which overflow the dam every twenty-four 
hours, rising 12 or 15 inches, and reced- 
ing to their ordinary level with the preci- 
sion of the tides. Six miles east of the 
same town there is a hole, in form like an 
inverted cone, which is '70 feet in diameter 
at the sm-face, and but 10 or 12 feet across 
422 



at a depth of 25 or 30 feet. Stones cast 
into this pit give no indication of touch- 
ing the bottom. There is yet another 
extraordinary sink in this neighborhood, 
on the top of an elevation, called French- 
man's Knob. It has been descended, by 
means of a rope, 275 feet, but without 
finding bottom. 

Natural Bridge. — There is an extra- a 
ordinary natural bridge in the roman- hi 
tic County of Christian. It is 130 feet ;• 
high, with a span of 70 feet. Dismals 
Pock is a frowning precipice, 160 feet 3 
high, in Edmonson County. Cumber- 1 
land Gap. — This passage of the Cum-n 
berland River through the mountains, 
in Knox County, 150 miles south of Lex- 
ington, is an imposing scene. The waters 
make their way between huge cliffs, 1,300 
feet in height. This famous gap gained 
considerable prominence during the re- 
cent campaign in Kentucky. It was sur- 
rendered to the Federal forces under 
General Shackleford, September 7, 1863. 
Wata-falls. — Besides the cascades of the 
Indian Creek, near Poplar Mountain, 
of which we have already made mention, 
there are numerous beautiful waterfalls 
among the hills of Kentucky. The PenficJc 
Creel; in Cumberland County, presents 
some fine pictures of this kind. The 
traveller must not overlook, either, if his 
time serves for the exploration, the Pock 
House in Cumberland, the Indian Pock 
in Edmonson, I^iloi Pock in Christian, < 
and the Plat and the Anvil Pocks in Union 
County. 

The Mounds and Fortifications, which 
are numerous in Kentucky, aiford em- 
ployment enough for the antiquarian 
tourist. In Allen County, 17 miles from 
Bowling Green, there is a wall of solid lime- 
stone 200 yards in length, 40 feet high ; at 
its base SO feet thick, and at its summit six 
feet. It crosses a neck formed of a curve 
in Drake's Creek, and shuts in a peninsula 
of about 200 acres, elevated 100 feet above ■ 
the river. Upon the crown of this emi: i 
nence, an area of three acres is sur- i 
rounded by a wall and ditch, making the 1 
place a fortress of immense strength. '■ 
Other strange ancient works may be found i 
in Warren, S^jencer, Boone, La Rue, i 
Montgomery, Barren, and Bourbon Coun- >ij 
ties. "The Big Bone Licks of Boone County 
exliibit the great bones of the mastodon 



Mounds.] 



KENTUCKY. 



[Routes 



land other extinct animals. Curious fossil 
remains are found in Bourbon County. 
[Impressions of the feet of men and of 
[animals may be seen in a rock near Mor- 
ganfield, in Union County. 

Both the antiquarian and the geolo- 
gist have a fine field within the domains 
of Kentucky, in which to gratify their 
taste and prosecute their studies. 

The usually travelled routes from Kew 
York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Wash- 
ington, southward, have been sufficient- 



ly described in the foregoing pages. For 
the convenience of those making the 
Southern Tour by water from Cincinnati 
or St. Louis, the editor of the " Hand- 
book " deems it important to incorporate 
in this portion of the work brief sketches 
of these cities, and other points of inter- 
est on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. 
For more extended descriptions of these 
cities and vicinage, the reader is referred 
to the chapters on Ohio and Mississippi. 

423 



TUE OHIO RIVER. 



I 



THE OHIO RIYEE. 

l_Sce accompanying map.'\ 



One of the most important points for 
tlic traveller to consider and determine 
upon before taking a trip down the Ohio, 
or indeed any river, is the choice of a 
boat. In vain are iine weather and pleas- 
ant company, if the craft you have select- 
ed be not seaworthy and comfortable ; a 
leaky stateroom, a wheezy 'scape-pii)e or 
two, a defective boiler, are things to be 
avoided at all times, but especially so 
when starting on a voyage of a thousand 
miles or more, extending over a period of 
several days. If the traveller have the 
opportunity, and is " posted " in such mat- 
ters, it is always well to go aboard the 
day before starting, and examine for him- 
self. If not, let him consult his landlord, 
or still better, some friend whose judg- 
ment may be relied on, and be thus 
guided in his choice. The regular packet 
lines are the most reliable, and these 
usually have one boat daily. The fare from 
Cincinnati or St. Louis to New Orleans, is 
usually about the same, varying from 
$25 to $40, according to the season of 
the year, the stage of water, and the prob- 
able duration of the passage. The dis- 
tance from Cincinnati to Cairo, at the 
mouth of the river, is 500 miles, and the 
time usually occupied in making it, two 
days, though it is Sometimes travelled 
by the regular packets in less. The 
traveller, as he descends this noble I'iver 
in the spring of the year — when its banks 
are full, and the beautiful red-bud and 
Cornus Florida deck the declivities of 
th.e bluffs, which sometimes rise 300 feet 
iu height, impend over the river, and cast 
their grand shadows into the transparent 
waters, and are seen at intervals in its 
luxuriant bottoms, while the towering 
sycamore throws its venerable and majes- 
tic arms, decke.d with rich foliage, over 
the other ti'ees — will readily acknowledge 
424 



the appropriateness of the title, of wliich 
the early French explorers gave it, 
" La Belle Riviere.''^ The Ohio is formed 
by the junction of the Alleghany and 
Monongahela, the former being navigable 
for keel-boats as far as Olean, in the State 
of New York, a distance of about 250 
miles ; tlie latter is navigable for steam- 
boats to Brownsville, 60 miles, and by 
keel-boats upwards of 175 miles. These 
two streams unite at Pittsburg and form 
the Ohio, which after a course of one 
thousand miles unites its waters ^ith 
those of the Mississippi. No other river 
of the same length has such a unifonn, 
smooth, and placid current. Its average 
width is about 2,400 feet, and the descent, 
in its whole course, is about 400 feet. 
At Pittsburg it is elevated about 1,150 
feet above the ocean. It has no fall, ex- 
cept a rocky rapid of twenty-two and a 
half feet descent at Louisville, around 
which is a canal two and a half niilca 
long, with locks sufficiently capacious to 
admit large steamboats, though not of 
the largest class. (See Louisville.) Dur- 
ing half the year this river has a depth 
of water allowing of navigation by steam- 
boats of the first class through its whole 
course. It is, however, subject to ex- 
treme elevations and depressions. The 
average range between high and low wa- 
ter is probably 50 feet. It lowest stage 
is m September, and its highest in March. 
It has been known to rise 12 feet in a 
night. Various estimates have been 
made of the rapidity of its current, but 
owing to its continually varying, it would 
be difficult to assign any very exact esti- 
mate. Between Pittsburg and its mouth 
it is diversified by many considerable 
islands, some of which are of exquisite 
beauty ; besides a number of tow-heads 
and sand-bars, which in low stages of the 



:fl 



THE OHIO RIVER. 



^ater greatly impede the navigation. 

ihe passages between some of the islands 

nd the sand-bars at their head are 

nong the difficulties of the navigation 

the Ohio. In the infancy of the 

puntry, every species of water craft was 

nployed in navigating this river, some 

which were of the most whimsical and 

nusing description. The barge, the 

el-boat, the Kentucky-flat or family- 

at, the pirogue, ferry-boats, gondolas, 

itft, dug-outs, and many others, formerly 

ated iu great numbers down the cur- 

jnts of the Ohio and Mississii^pi Rivers 

their points of destination, at distances 

metimes of three thousand miles. Ow- 

to the difficulties of navigating the 

er between Pittsburg and Cincinnati, 

d the facilities of speedy communica- 

)n between these cities by rail, the 

pount of travel, except between way 

ints on the river, is very small. 

hie of distances on the OMo, from Pitfs- 
burg to Cincinnati. 

Middletown, Pa 11 

Economy, Pa 8 

Froedom, Pa 6 

Beaver, Pa 5 

Georgetown, Pa 14 

Liverpool, Ohio 4 

Wellsville, Ohio 4 

Steiibenville, Ohio 19 

Wellsburg, Ta T 

"Warrenton, Ohio 7 

Martinsville, Ohio 8 

Wheeling:, Va. I 

Bridgeport, Ohio ) 

Elizabethtown, Va. ) ^„ 

~i\g Grave Creek, Va. f ^^ 

few Martinsville, Va 10 

isterville, Va 29 

toewport, Ohio 13 

Marietta, Ohio 18 

Vienna, Va 6 

arkersburg, Va. ( „ 

ielpre, Ohio < ° 

lennerhasset's Island 2 

ockingsport, Ohio 11 

ellvillOj Va 4 

lurraysville, Va 5 

hadePiver, Ohio 1 

lavenswood, Va 11 

^etartsville, Ohio 22 

'omeroy 14 

^alport, I 

hctlield, Ohio f 

oint Pleasant, Va. ) ^„ 

t. Kanawha Ki ver, Va. f ^^ 

allipolis. Ohio 4 

. lilillersport, Ohio 24 

pruyandotte, Va. 1 

poctorsville, Ohio ) 

liJurlington, Ohio 8 

;ig Saiidy Kiver 4 



19 
25 
80 
44 
48 
52 
71 
78 
85 
93 

1 94 

107 

117 

146 
158 
177 
182 

188 

190 

201 
205 
210 
211 
222 
244 
258 

1 259 

271 

275 
299 



13- 312 

820 
824 



Hanging Eock, Ohio 13 337 

Greenupsburg, Ky 6 843 

Wheelersburg, Ohio 8 351 

Portsmouth, Ohio I -.n qrq 

Scioto Paver. Ohio ( ■^" "^^"^ 

Eockville, Ohio 16 379 

Eome, Ohio 10 8S9 

Concord, Ky 6 395 

Manchester, Ohio 7 404 

Maysville, Ky. ) 12 414 

Aberdeen, Ohio f 1/ 414 

Charleston, Ky 7 421 

Eipley, Ohio 2 423 

Higginsport, Ohio 7 430 

Augusta, Ky 4 434 

Mechanicsburg, Ky 7 441 

Neville, Ohio 3 444 

Moscow ' 4 448 

Pt. Pleasant, Ohio I a ako 

Belmont. Ky. f * ^°'' 

New Eiohmond 5 457 

Little Miami Eiver, Ohio 14 471 

Columbia | 1 -ito 

Jamestown, Ky. f ^ **'' 

Cincinnati, Ohio ) ~ .>,„ 

Newport & Covington, Ky. f ° *' ' 



CINCINNATI. 

The " Queen City of the West," as 
Cincinnati has not inappropriately been 
called, is pleasantly situated on the north 
bank of the Ohio, 500 miles from its 
mouth; and near the confluence of the 
Licking River, which enters from Ken- 
tucky just above Covington, on the op- 
posite side of the river. Its central po- 
sition, at the very heart of the railway and 
inland navigation system of the country, 
secures to the traveller easy and rapid ac- 
cess from every quarter of the Union. 
From New York the most direct route 
thither is by the Atlantic and Great 
Western Railway via Salamanca and Mans- 
field, distance 862 miles. The New York 
and Erie route, and the Hudson River or 
Harlem Railway to Albany, and thence 
by the Central to Buffalo or Dunkirk, and 
thence via Cleveland and Columbus, are 
not unfrequently taken. 

From Philadelphia, by the Pennsylvania 
Central Railway via Pittsburg, Crestline, 
and Columbus, distance 722 miles. The 
scenery of the Pennsylvania Central is 
much admired. 

From Baltimore the route is by the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, via Wheel- 
ing or Parkersburg, distance 636 miles. 
Adding the distance from New York to 
Baltimore, 186 miles, the entire distance 
from New York to Cincinnati, bv this 
425 



THE OHIO RIVER. 



route, is 822 miles. Tlie beautiful scenery 
and other attractions of this fine road 
hold out strong- inducements to tourists and 
pleasure travellers. As remarked in the 
chapter on Marjdand, parties making Bal- 
timore their point of departure from the 
North Atlantic seaboard, have a choice of 
routes : they can either proceed directly 
south, by way of Washington and Rich- 
mond, or taking the route here laid down, 
they can pursue their journey from Cin- 
cinnati by steamer. The traveller's own 
taste, and the time and means at his com- 
mand, will decide as to the best choice 
to make. The Cincinnati hotels, though 
by no means what they should be either 
as regards style or comfort, are sufficient- 
ly attractive to make a short stay desir- 
able after the fatigues of a journey from 
the East, and the stranger can profitably 
and pleasantly spend a few days in view- 
ing the city and its pretty environs. The 
Burnet House is centrally and pleasantly 
located on Vine and Third Streets. It is 
conducted by Captain Silas F. Miller, for- 
merly of the " Gait House," Louisville. 
The Spencer House^ on Broadway, near 
. the steamboat landing, is an old and fa- 
vorite stopping-place. The Broadway 
Hotel, at the intersection of Broadway 
and Second Street, is also conveniently 
located for travellers by the river. The 
Walnut Street House and Merchants' Hotel 
are among the best of their class. Among 
the various restaurants of the city, the 
St. Nicholas, at the corner of Fourth and 
Race Streets, in the immediate neighbor- 
hood of the Burnet House, is the best 
worthy of patronage. Reading and bil- 
liard rooms attached. 

The city proper is compactly built upon 
two plateaus or terraces, ranging in alti- 
tude from 50 to 110 feet above low- water 
mark in the Ohio. The city occupies the 
river shore for more than three miles, and 
its area is rapidly extending. The streets 
are generally of good width, well paved 
and well lighted. The principal thorough- 
fares are Fourth, Broadway, Main, and 
Pearl Streets. The Levee, though by no 
means so extensive as that of New Orleans, 
forms a characteristic feature of the 
place. Fourth Street is the fashionable 
promenade. The markets and many of 
the retail establishments are located in 
Fifth Street, which is generally thronged 
426 



at certain hours each day with a motl< 
multitude of every class. Among tli 
public buildings of the city worthy of m 
tice are the Observatory on Mount Adanii 
in the eastern part of the city, the cornt 
stone of which was laid November 
1843, by John Quincy Adams. The tel 
scope, by Mentz and Mahler of MuniC' 
is a valuable instrument, and cost |?10,00" 
The Masonic Temple, on the northea 
corner of Walnut and Third, is an elegai; 
structure. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral of k 
Peters, at the intersection of Plum an 
Eighth Streets, has a powerful organ ar. 
some fine paintings. The altar is o 
Carrara marble, by Chiappri, of Genoa 
The Custom House, adjoining the Burnii 
House at the corner of Vine and Four! 
Streets, is a fine structure, in the Corii 
thiau style. In it are also located tli 
Post-Office and United States Court 
The City Hcdl is in Plum Street, betwee 
Eighth and Ninth. The Merchants' E. 
change, on Walnut Street, near Fourth, i 
a handsome edifice, with a front of 14 
feet, in the Greco-Doric order. Thi 
rooms of the Mercantile Library Associi 
tion are in this building. The coUectio 
of books numbers 23,000. Strangei 
introduced by members have access t 
the shelves and to the files of news, 
papers. 

The principal places of amusemeii' 
are Wood''s Theatre, on Vine Street come i 
of Sixth, and the National Theatre, ii 
Sycamore Street, below Fourth. Pike' 
Opera House, recently destroyed by firei 
was considered, next to that in PhUadeli 
phia, the finest in the Union. The Swt 
pension Bridge which spans the river be 
low the foot of Vine Street will attrac 
the stranger's attention. The towers ari 
1,006 feet apart and 230 feet high. I 
was commenced September 1,1856, am 
is not yet quite complete. It is the worl 
of John A. Roebling, the architect of tin 
Niagara Suspension Bridge, and is a mag. 
nificent structure. Its entire cost wih 
not fall short of one million dollars. Th<] 
vicinity of Cincinnati abounds in beautiful! 
drives ; that to Spring Grove Cemetery h 
among the most attractive. This beautiu 
ful burying-ground is in the valley of! 
Mill Creek, four miles northwest of thl ! 
city. It embraces 220 acres, and itl! 



THE OHIO EIVER. 



adorned with many fine monuments. 
Tiie Lunatic Asylum, a large brick build- 
ing, occupies a prominent locale on the 
opposite side of Mill Creek. 

Madison Road, and its continuation, 
Grandin Road, affords a pleasant drive. 
The residences of Mr. Joseph Long- 
worth, the famous wine-grower and manu- 
facturer, of Mr. Harrison, and of Captain P. 
W. Strader, all well-known citizens, are 
seen from this road. Extended views of 
the Ohio River are obtained from the bluff 
top in front of Mr. Harrison's mansion. 
A visit to Longworth's Wine-House is 
among the most noteworthy events of 
the appreciative traveller's visit to Cin- 
cinnati. The " Vaults " have capacity 
for upwards of a million bottles. Ap- 
plication for admission to the vaults 
should be made to Mr. William P. Ander- 
son, a nephew of Mr. Longworth's, who 
has sole management of the establish- 
ment. Formerly the neighborhood of 
Cincinnati abounded in vineyards, but of 
late years the grape crop has failed, and 
Mr. Longworth and other large growers 
have abandoned their cultivation entirely. 
It is now mainly conducted by the Ger- 
nans, whose experience and thrifty habits 
inable them to make it remunerative in 
pite of blight and early frost. Cincinnati 
las a world-wide reputation for the quan- 
ity and quality of the pork packed ; the 
xtent of the business is sufficiently ap- 
arent to the stranger who frequents that 
art of the city in which the slaughtering 
ud packing is carried on. Some of the 
lacking-houses are very large, and to the 
lurious in such matters are worth visit- 
ng. 

Oistances from Cincinnati to the mouth of 
the Ohio. 

\^ North Bciul, 16 

Great Miiinii Eiver, 4 20 

Petorslnirg;, Ky 5 25 

Bellcview, Ky 8 83 

Eisint; yui), Incl 3 86 

Big Bono Lick Creek, \ ,„ .^ 

Hamilton, Ky. \ ^^ 48 

Warsaw, Ky ] 2 60 

Vevay, Ind' 10 70 

Kentucky Eiver 10 80 

Madison, Ind 12 92 



Hanover Landing, Ind 6 98 

New London, Ind 4 102 

Westport, Ky 6 103 

Utica,Ind 15 123 

Jeffersoville, Ky 9 132 

Louisville, Ky 1 183 

and from Pittsburg 610 

Shippingsport, Ky 2 185 

Portland, Ky. ) i iqa 

New Albany, Ind. \ ^ ^"^^ 

Salt Eiver, and I iq ikj 

West Point, Kj^ j ^" ''^ 

Brandenburg, Ky 18 172 

Northampton, Ind 10 182 

Amsterdam, Ind 3 185 

Leavenworth, Ind 8 193 

I?'redonia. Ind 5 198 

Alton, Ind 13 211 

Concordia, Ky. ; 10 221 

Eome, Ind., and ) ^-, noo 

Steven sport, Ky. 5 ^^ ^^ 

Cloversport, Ky 10 242 

Carmelton, Ind 13 255 

Troy, Ind 6 261 

Lewisport, Ky 6 267 

Eockport, Ind 12 279 

Owensburg, Ky 9 288 

Enterprise, Iiid 6 294 

Newburg, Ind 15 809 

Green Eiver, Ky 6 815 

Evansville, Ind 9 324 

Hendersonville, Ky 12 336 

Mount Vernon, Ind 26 362 

Uniontown, Ky 15 877 

Wabash Eiver 5 882 

Ealeigh, Ky , 6 388 

Shawneetown, 111 5 893 

Casey ville, Ky 9 402 

Cave In Eock, 111 14 416 

Elizabeth, 111 6 422 

Goleonda, 111 28 445 

Cumberland Eiver, and I -,.- ,„„ 

Smithland, Ky. ) " ^^^ 

Tennessee Elver, and ^ io An a 

Paducah,Ky \ ^^ *^^ 

Belgrade,Ill 8 482 

Fort Massac, 111 2 484 

Caledonia, 111 25 509 

America, 111 3 512 

Tnnity,Ill 5 517 

Cairo, 111., and I _ kho 

Mouth of the Ohio Elver, f ° °^^ 

and from Pittsburg 999 



Distances from Pittsbxirg and Cincinnati hy 
hoat. 

From Cin. From PVcr. 

To St. Louis, Mo 697 1174 

Memphis, Tenn 7G7 1264 

Vicksburg. 1158 1630 

Natchez 1269 1746 

New Orleans 1548 2025 

[For descriptive skotches of places and ob- 
jects of interest in the above list, see chapters 
on Kentucky, etc.] 

42*7 



THE MlSSISSirn RIVER. 



THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEE 

l_Sce accompanying map.'\ 



The disappointment which the traveller 
feels in looking upon this famous river 
for the first time, is only exceeded by the 
counteracting impression which a journey 
down it leaves upon the mind.. A more 
intimate acquaintance with the extent and 
resources of the country tributary to it, 
which repeated visits to points distributed 
along its entire course alone can give, 
only serves to heighten this impression, 
and " make this wonder greater grow." 

Discovered in 16*72, its true source was 
not fully determined until its exploration 
by Schoolcraft, who, in 1832, ascertained 
that it took its rise in a small lake situated 
in 4'7° N. latitude and 94° 54' W. longitude 
from Greenwich. This lake, called by 
the French Lac la Biche — by recent 
geographers Itasca (from Veritas Capui^ 
the true head), is a beautiful sheet of 
water, of an irregular shape, about eight 
miles in length, situated among hills cov- 
ered with pine forests, and fed chiefly by 
springs. It is elevated above 1,500 feet 
above the ocean, and is at a distance of 
more than 3,000 miles from the Gulf of 
Mexico. The river drains an extent of 
territory which, for fertility and vastness, 
is unequalled upon the globe. This ter- 
ritory, termed the " Mississippi Valley," 
extends from the sources of the Missis- 
sippi in the north to the Gulf of Mexico 
in the south, and from the Alleghany 
Mountains on the east to the Rocky 
Mountains on the west. A more correct 
estimate of its area may be formed thus : 
Take a position on the Gulf of Mexico, 
where it empties its accumulated waters, 
and run a line northwestward to the 
Rocky Mountains, from whence issue the 
sources of the Arkansas, Platte, and other 
smaller streams ; from this point, along 
the Rocky Mountains to the sources of 
the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers ; 
428 



around the northern sources of the latter 
river to the headwaters of Red River, a 
branch of the Assiniboin ; around the 
sources of the Mississippi proper, to tlie 
headwaters of the Wisconsin and Illi- 
nois Rivers ; between the confluents of 
the lakes, and those of the Ohio, to the 
extreme source of the Alleghany River ; 
along the dividing line between the sour- 
ces of streams flowing into the Ohio 
River, and those flowing toward the At- 
lantic ; between the confluents of the 
Tennessee, and those streams emptying 
into Mobile Bay ; between the sources 
discharged into the Mississippi, and those 
into the Tombigbee and Pearl Rivers ; to 
the mouth of the Mississippi, and from 
its mouth to the outlet of the Atchafala- 
ya — the whole presenting an outhne of 
more than 6,000 miles, or an area of 
about 1,210,000 square miles. The Mis- 
sissippi River is navigable for steamboats 
with but partial interruption, as far north 
as the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of 
2,037 miles ; its course, however, is ex- 
tremely crooked, and not unfi-equently a 
bend occurs from twenty to thirty miles 
round, while the distance across is not 
more than a mile or two. In some in- 
stances, however, these distances have 
been shortened by what are termed "cut- 
offs," which are made by opening a narrow 
channel across the neck of a bend, when, 
on admitting the water, the current, run- 
ning with such velocity, soon forces a 
channel both wide and deep enough for ' 
the largest steamboats to go through. 
The navigation is frequently rendered 
dangerous, owing to the mighty volume 
of water washing away from some pro- 
jecting point large masses of earth, with 
its huge trees, which are carried down the 
stream. Others, again, are often imbed- 
ded in the mud, with their tops rising 



J 



THE MISSISSIPPI EIVER. 



kbove the water, and not unusually caus- 
ing the destruction of many a fine craft. 
These are called, in river phraseology, 

snags " and " sawyers." The whirls, 
or eddies, caused by the striking" peculiar- 
ities of the river in the uniformity of its 
ineanders, are termed " points " and 

bends," which have the precision, in 
inany instances, as though they had been 
struck by the sweep of a compass. These 
ire so regular,, that the flatboat-men fre- 
i^uently calculate distances by them ; in- 

tead of the number of miles, they esti- 
[nate their progress by the number of 

t I ends they have passed. A short dis- 
ance from its source, the Mississippi be- 
omes a tolerably-sized stream ; below 
the Falls of St. Anthony it is half a mile 
jvide, and below the Des Moines Eapids 
t assumes a medial width and character 
10 the mouth of the Missouri. About 13 
niles below the mouth of the St. Croix 
liver, the Mississippi expands into a 
)eautiful sheet of water, called Lake 
'epin, which is 2-4 miles long, and from 
wo to four miles broad. The islands, which 
,re numerous, and manj' of them large, 
lave, during the summer season, an as- 
)ect of great beauty, possessing a gran- 
ieur of vegetation, which contributes 
auch to the magnificence of the river. The 
lumerous sand-bars are the resort, durmg 
lie season, of innumerable swans, geese, 
nd water-fowl. The Upper Mississippi 
a beautiful river, more so than the 
>hio ; its current is more gentle, its water 
learer, and it is a third wider. In gen- 
ral it is a mile wide, yet, for some dis- 
mce before commingling its waters with 
tie Missouri it has a much greater width. 

I.t the junction of the two streams, it is 
mile and a half wide. The united stream, 
owing from thence to the mouth of the 
'hio, has an average width of Httle more 
han three-quarters of a mile. On its 
niting with the Missouri it loses its dis- 
inctive character. It is no longer the 
eutle, placid stream with smooth shores 
nd clean sand-bars, but has a furious 
^id boihng current, a turbid and danger- 
us mass of waters, with jagged and di- 
^pidatcd shores. Its character of calm 
icinificence, that so delighted the eye 
■ ■.e, is seen no more. 
:4t. ILionis occupies relatively to the 
s.<issippi the same commanding position 



that Cincinnati ' does to the Ohio. It is 
the great centering and converging point 
of travel and traffic, while the extent and 
magnificence of its hotels places it far in 
advance of its more populous and more 
wealthy rival. The traveller from the 
East or from the Upper Mississippi will 
consult his comfort by staying at least 
three days to recruit, before taking a boat 
down the river. The most desirable 
hotels for families are the Lindel and the 
Southern. Both have been recently con- 
structed, and furnished in a style equal 
to the best hotels on the continent. The 
Lindel occupies an entire square, fronting 
on Washington Avenue, and is easily 
reached from the railroad stations and 
steamboat landing. The Southern is built 
of Athens stone or marble, and presents 
a chaste and handsome appearance. 
Gentlemen unaccompanied by ladies will 
find the Flant€rs\ Olive Street Souse, and 
the Everett, pleasant stopping-places. 
The latter is convenient to the places of 
amusement. From Cincinnati and the 
East, St. Louis is reached directly by the 
Ohio and Mississippi Piailway. Distance, 
340 miles ; time, 17 hours. From Chica- 
go the most direct route is by the Chica- 
go, Alton, and St. Louis Eailway. Dis- 
tance, 280 miles; time, 13 hours. The 
present site of the city was chosen by 
Pierre Laclede, in 1764. Authorities differ 
as to the precise date. It was named 
in honor of Louis XV. of France. It 
was settled as a trading-station, and until 
recently it contmued to be the headquar- 
ters and depot of the great American Fur 
Company, under the management of the 
late M. Pierre Choteau. The stranger 
cannot but be struck with its situation, 
and its commercial greatness, present and 
prospective. Standing as it does on the 
bank of the greatest river of the conti- 
nent, between its two most important 
tributaries, the Missouri and Ohio Rivers, 
its future cannot fail to be a marvel of 
progress. The first steamboat arrived at 
the Levee in 1817. The population in 
ISSO was but 6,600 ; it now numbers 
nearly 200,000. Its pi-incipal buildi'^gi 
are the CouH House, City Hall, and Ctis 
torn House. The first-named of these, 
since the completion of the dome, is one 
of the finest structures of the kind in 
the West. It cost $1,250,000. The 
429 



THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 



Planters' House, a time-honored institu- 
tion, famous before the war for its cuisine, 
stands immediately north of the Court 
House on Fourth Street. The Cathedral, 
on Wahiut Street, is worth visiting. The 
city is built mainly of brick. The streets 
parallel with and near the Levee are nar- 
now, but further back are some fine 
thoroughfares. Fourth Street, north of 
the Planters' House, is the fashionable 
promenade. Washington Avenue, Chest- 
nut, and Market Streets- are also wide, 
handsome streets. The Levee, during the 
busy boating season, is one of the city 
"sights." The vicinage, though perhaps 
less attractive than that of Cincinnati, 
affords many pleasant drives. The Cem- 
etery of Bellefoniaine, five miles north of 
the Court House, embraces about 850 
acres of land, beautifully shaded. It is 
reached by the Fourth Street and Broad- 
way cars. Jefferson Barracks, 10 miles 
below the city, affords a pleasant trip. 
It is reached by the Iron Iloimtain Rail- 
way. The Arsenal, in the southeast end 
of the city, and the Marhie Hospital, are 
worthy the attention of strangers. If 
the visitor desires to prolong his stay in 
the neighborhood of St. Louis, he will 
find both profit and pleasure in a visit to 
the famous Iron Mountain, 81 miles south 
of the city. Pilot Knob is six miles 
beyond. A train leaves St. Louis daily 
at 6.15 A. M., running through in V hours. 
Between St. Louis and the mouth of the 
Ohio River, a distance of 1*75 miles, there 
is nothing of special interest to attract the 
traveller's attention — a fortunate circum- 
stance, as it is usually passed during the 
night when objects on shore, however in- 
teresting in themselves, would not be 
visible to the river tourist. 

Cairo, at the mouth of the Ohio River, is 
a place of considerable trade. The town 
was formerly below the level of the river 
at high stages of water, and was subjected 
to repeated inundations. It has been pro- 
tected of late years by artificial levees 
and otherwise improved. It is the south- 
ern terminus of the Illinois Central Rail- 
way to Chicago. Packets up and down 
the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers all call 
here. The St. Charles is the best hotel. 

Columbus, Kentucky, 18 miles below 
Cairo, is on the east bank of the river. 
It was occupied by Confederate troops 
430 



under General Polk (September 4, 18C1) 
and defended by from 80 to 100 gims. Oi 
the naval expedition down the rive 
(March, 1862) it was found to have beei 
evacuated shortly before. 

Island No. 10, near Obionville, Tennes 
see, 51 miles below Columbus, was th( 
scene of a terrific bombardment from th( 
Mississippi River fleet, extending fron 
March 16 to April 17, 1862. The cana 
which was cut to assist in the mvestmen 
of the island, and the remains of soini 
of the earthworks, can still be seen ii 
passmg the island. 

New Madrid, Mo., the scene of th( 
great eai'th quake in 1811. It was set 
tied in 1780. A large shipping businesi 
is carried on here. The works construetec' 
by the rebels for the defence of the towi 
can be seen from the river. 

Point Pleasant, Missouri, 7 miles bel<iw 
was occupied by General Pope^prepura 
tory to the attack on Island No. 10. 

Fort Pillow, situated on the first Chick- 
asaw Bluff, near Island 33 and Plum Point 
was evacuated by the rebels June 4, 1862, 
It was afterwards the scene of a horrible 
butchery by the troops under the Confed- 
erate General Forrest (April 12, 18 04), 
known in history as the Fort Pillow mas- 
sacre. 

Fort Randolph, on the second Chicka- 
saw Bluff, like Fort Pillow, is a rebel work. 
It was evacuated by them about the same 
time. The village of Randolph, whicfi 
consisted of about forty dwellings, was 
burnt by General Sherman's orders. 

Memphis. (See chapter on Tennessee.) 

Helena, Arkansas, a thriving town be- 
fore the war, with a population of 4,000, 
was occupied by the troops of General 
Curtis on their return from the interior 
of the State (July, 1862). It is in Phillips 
Coujity, 80 miles below Memphis. 

Mliite River, which enters the Missis- 
sippi 161 miles below Memphis, and 80 
miles below Helena, was the scene of ac- 
tive operations during a great part of the 
war. Dlivall's Bluff, DesArc, and Batcs- 
ville, are on its banks. 

Napoleon, at the mouth of the Arkansafi- 
River, is next reached in the voyage down- 
stream. This is a place of considerable 
trade during the boating season in the 
Arkansas. It is about 1 25 miles by land 
southeast of Little Rock. The ifnitcd 



THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 



plates Marine Hospital, with all the sup- 
blies it contained, was seized by the 
onfederate authorities upon the secession 
!)f the State (May 6, 1861). (For points 
)n the Arkansas River, see chapter on 
ArkaTisas.) 

Grand Lake, in Chicot County, is on 
iItc Arkansas side of the river. Steam- 
|)oats usually land here with supplies for 
he neighboring planters. There is fine 
|;unning in the neighborhood. 

Vicksburg. (Sec chapter on Mississippi 
or description of the city and military 
perations.) 
Grand Gulf contains a Town Hall, 
arket house, and numerous stores. 
Natchez. (See chapter on Mississippi.) 
Port Hudson, 25 miles above Baton 
ouge, was the scene of an attack during 
e summer of 1863, by General Banks 
om New Orleans. It surrendered to the 
. S. forces (July 9), after the news of 
ae fall of Vicksburg. 
Baton Rouge. (See chap, on Louisiana.) 
Plaquemine, in Iberville Parish, Lou- 
^iana, . is the next landing of any im- 
ortance. It is situated near the mouth 
f the Plaquemine Bayou, 23 miles south 
f Baton Rouge. Previous to the war 
irge amounts of cotton were shipped to 
"ew Orleans from tliis point. Fifty miles 
)uth of Plaquemine the old Jefferson 
ollege rises in view on the left bank of 
le river, and, in a couple of hours more, 
le quaint old church of Bonnet Carre is 
issed. We are now rapidly approaching 
le end of our long journey. Thirty-five 
iles below Bonnet Carre the boat passes 
. sight of tlie pleasant village of CarroU- 
in, beyond which, in a big bend of the 
ver, lies the Crescent City of the South. 
s the boat steams to her landing on the 
)acious Levee, the traveller will have a 
le opportunity afforded him of seeing 
)t only the business portion of the city 
it the young town of Algiers and other 
sighboring points. He will also note a 
iterial change in the aspect of the river. 
p one who descends the Mississippi 
Iver for the first time, receives clear and 
lequate ideas of its grandeur, and the 
liount of water it carries. If it be in 
e spring of the year, when the river, be- 
'.if the mouth of the Ohio generally 
ijerflows its banks, although the sheet of 
^ter that is making its way to the Gulf 



is perhaps 30 miles wide, yet, finding its 
way through deep forests and swamps, 
that conceal all from the eye, no expanse 
of water is seen but the width that is 
curved out between the outline of woods 
on either bank, and it seldom exceeds, 
and oftener falls short of a mile. But 
when he sees, as he must, in descendiag 
its entire length, that it swallows up one 
river after another, with mouths as wide 
as itself, without affecting its width at all ; 
when he notes the mighty Missouri, the 
broad Ohio, the St. Francis, White, Ar- 
kansas, and Red Rivers, all of them of 
great depth, length, and volume of water, 
swallowed in rapid succession ; when he 
sees this mighty river absorbing them all, 
and retaining a volume apparently un- 
changed, he begins to estimate rightly the 
increasing depths of current, that must 
roll on in its deep channel to the sea. 

Steaming out at the BaUze, homeward 
bound, and sailing with a good breeze for 
hours, the traveller sees nothing on any 
side but the turbid waters of the Missis- 
sippi, long after he is out of sight of land. 
But we anticipate — we have reached New 
Orleans, and our journey, for the present, 
is ended. Once comfortably domiciled at 
the St. Charles or the St. Louis, the trav- 
eller will have ample time to lay out his 
own plans for the future. 

After playing the pai^t of Guide so long, 
we part company with our reader with no 
little regret. We leave him in the midst of 
a people conspicuous alike for their hospi- 
tality and tiieir courteous attention to 
strangers, wishing him, however or wher- 
ever he may go, a ban voyage, and a safe 
return from his Southern Tour. 



Distances from the mouth of the Ohio River 
to New Orleans. 

To Island No. 1 6 

Cohimbus, Ky. , 12 IS 

Woirs Island, or No. 5 1 19 

Hickman, Ky IS 87 

Island No. lb 82 C9 

Now Madrid, Mo 10 T9 

Point Pleasant, Mo 7 86 

Little Prairie, Mo 27 113 

Noedbam's Island, and Cut-oflf 25 138 

Ashport, Tenn 8 146 

Osceola, Ark 12 158 

Plum Point 3 Ifil 

1st Chickasaw Bluff 5 166 

Fulton, Tenn 2 108 

Fort Ka;]dol|)h, } ... ,-„ 

2d Chickasaw Bluff S '^ 

431 



THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEIl. 



Bd CHckasaff Bluff IT 195 

Greenock, Ark 80 225 

WolfKiver, I 20 245 

Memphis, Tenn. j 

Norfolk, Miss 10 255 

Commerce, Miss ^'^ 272 

Peyton, Miss 31 303 

St. Francis Eiver, and ) -[3 glG 

Sterling, Ark. j _ „„„ 

Helena; Ark 10 326 

Yazoo Pass, or Bayou, ) ;^0 336 

and Delta, Miss. J 

Horseshoe Bend 8 344 

Montgomery's Pt., Ark } . . 58 402 

Victoria, Miss. ) 

"White Eiver, Ark 4 406 

Arkansas Eiver, ) . . 16 422 

Napoleon, Ark. j 

Bolivar Landing. 13 435 

Columbia, Ai-k 63 488 

PointChicot 4 492 

Greenville, Miss 4 496 

Grand Lake Landing, Ark 40 536 

Princeton, Miss 5 541 

Lake Providence, La 19 570 

Tompkinsville, La lo oS5 

Camphellsville, La 16 601 

Millikinsville, La 10 641 

Tazoo Eiv;er, Miss., and ) g gjg 

Sparta, La. j 

432 



Walnut Hills, Miss 10 629 

Vicksbiirg, Miss 2 681 

WaiTcntoh, Miss 10 641 

Carthage Landing, La 19 660 

Point Pleasant, La 10 670 

Big Black Eiver 14 634 

Grand Gulf, Miss 2 686 

St. Joseph's, La., and | in «oe 

Bruinsburg, Miss. \ ^^ ^^ 

Eodney, Miss 10 706 

Natchez, Miss 41 747 

Ellis Cliff, Miss 18 765 

Homochitto Eiver, Miss 26 791 

Port Adams 10 801 

Bed Eiver Island 11 812 

Eaccourci Cut-off and Bend 10 822 

Bayou Sara, St. Prancisville, ) oq g-, 

and Pt. Coupee, La. j ■" 

Port Hudson, La 11 868 

Baton Eouge, La 25 888 

Plaquemine, La 23 911 

Bayou La Fourche, and I _ 34 945 

Donaldsonville, La. J 

Jefferson College 16 961 

Bonnet Carre Church 24 935 

Bed Church, La 16 1001 

Carrollton, La 19 1020 

Lafayette, La 4 1024 

New Orleans, La 2 1026 



« 



^ 



THE BEITISH PEOYIl^OES, 



19 



THE BRITISH PROYIICES. 



[The possessions of the British Crown in North America occupy nearly all the upper 
half of the continent; a vast territory, reaching from the Arctic seas to the domains 
of the United States, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. Of this great 
region, our present explorations will refer only to the lower and settled portions, 
known as the British Provinces, embracing the Canadas, New Brunswick, and Nova 
Scotia. The rest is, for the most part, yet a wilderness.] 

CAISTADA. 



Gkogeaphy and Area. — Canada, the 
largest and most important of the settled 
portions of the British territory in North 
America, lies upon the noi'thern border 
of the IJnited States, from the Atlan- 
tic coast to the waters of Lake Superior 
and the Mississippi The two provinces 
into which it is divided were formerly 
known as Lower and Upper Canada, or 
Canada East and Canada West ; and thus, 
indeed, their dilTering manners, habits, 
and laws, stiU virtually divide and distin- 
guish them, though they are now nomi- 
nally and politically united. The entire 
length of the Canadian frontier, from east 
to v>'est, is between 1,200 and 1,300 miles, 
with a breadth varying from 200 to 300 
miles. 

1 Discovert, Settlement, and Rulers. 
— The earliest discovery of Canada (1497) 
is ascribed to Sebastian Cabot. Jacques 
Cartier, a French adventurer, spent the 
winter of 1541 at St. Croix, now the 
River St. Charles, upon which Quebec is 
partly built. The first permanent settle- 
ment, however, was at Tadousac, at the 
confluence of the Saguenay and the St. 
ILawrence. From that time (about 1608) 
until 1759, the connti'y continued uuder 
f.he rule of France ; and then came the 
bapture of Quebec )>y the English, under 
preneral Wolfe, and the transfer, within a 
year thereafter, of all the territory of New 
frrancc, as the country was at that time 
called, to the British power, under which 



it has ever since remained. The mutual 
disagreement which naturally arose from 
the conflicting interests and prejudices of 
the two opposing nationalities, threatened 
internal trouble from time to time, and 
finally displayed itself in the overt acts 
recorded in history as the rebellion of 
183*7. It was after these incidents, and 
as a consequence thereof, that the two 
sections of the territory were formed into 
one. This happened in 1840. 

Government. — ^Canada is ruled by an 
executive, holding' the title of Governor- 
General, received from the crown of Great 
Britain, and by a legislature called the 
Provincial Parliament. This body con- 
sists of an Upper and a Lower House ; 
the members of the one were formerly ap- 
pointed by the Queen, but now (as fast as 
those thus placed die) this body is, like 
the other branch, chosen by the people, 
each member for a term of eight years. 

Religion. — The dominant religious 
faith in Lower Canada, or Canada East, is 
that of the Romish Church ; while in the 
Upper Province the creed of the English 
Established Church prevails. 

Landscape. — The general topography 
of Upper or Western Canada is that of a 
level country, with but few variations ex- 
cepting the passage of some table-heights, 
extending southwesterly. It is the most 
fertile division of the territory, and thus, 
to the tourist in search of the iDicturesque, 
the least attractive. The Lovf er Province, 
435 



Springs.] 



CANADA. 



[Kailways. 



or Canada East, is extremely varied and 
beautiful in its physical aspect ; present- 
ing to the delighted eye a magnificent 
gallery of charming pictures of forest 
wilds, vast prairies, hill and rock-bound 
rivers, rushing waters, and bold mountain 
heights, everywhere intermingled, and 
their attractions embellished by inter- 
vening stretches of cultivated iields, rural 
villages, and villa homes. 

Mountains. — The hill-ranges of Cana- 
da are confined entirely to the lower or 
eastern province. The chief lines, called 
the Green Mountains, follow a parallel 
course southwesterly. They lie along the 
St. Lawrence River, on its southern side, 
extending from the latitude of Quebec to 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There is an- 
other and corresponding range on the 
north side of the river, with a varying 
elevation of about 1,000 feet. The 
Mealy Mountains, which extend to Sand- 
wich Bay, rise in snow-capped peaks to 
the height of 1,500 feet. The Wotchish 
Mountains, a short, crescent-shaped group, 
lie between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and 
Hudson's Bay. 

Rivers. — Canada has many noble and 
beautiful rivers, as the St. Lawrence, one 
of the great waters of the world ; the wild, 
mountain-shored floods of the Ottawa, 
and the Saguenay ; and the lesser waters 
of the Sorel or Richelieu, the St. Francis, 
the Chaudiere, and other streams. 

SPRINGS. 

Xlie Caledonia, Sprisigs. — 
The Caledonia Springs, a place of much 
resort, are at the village of Caledonia, 72 
miles from Montreal. Leave Montreal 
by the Lachine Railway, and take the 
steamer to Carillon. At Point Fortune, 
opposite Carillon, on the other side of 
the Ottawa, take stage to the Springs, 
arriving the same evening. 

l^laMtag-eiaet Spa'iiag'S. — ^From 
Montreal to Point Fortune, as in the route 
to the Caledonia Springs ; and thence by 
stage, arriving same evening. Distance, 
88 miles. The consumption of the " Plan- 
tagenet water " is said to be very great. 

'FSie §t. SjCOsi Spriasg'S are at 

the village of St. Leon, on the Riviere du 

Loup, " en haut," between Montreal and 

Quebec ; 26 miles by stage from Three 

436 



Rivers, a landing of the St. Lawrence 
steamers. 

St. Catliarine's. — St. Cathar- 
ine's, Canada West, on the Great Western 
Railway, 11 miles from Niagara Falls, 
and 32 miles from Hamilton. See St. 
Catharine's, en route from Montreal to 
Niagara, via the St. Lawrence. 

WATERFALLS IN CANADA. 

Niagara. — (See chapter on the 

State of New York.) 

I'^alls of Moiatm,oreiici. — (See 
Quebec.) 

The CIiaMdiere Falls, on the 

Ottawa. 

Tlie Claaiidiere Falls, Que- 
bec. — (See City of Quebec.) 

TIae Midean Falls.— (See Ot- 
tawa River.) 

Tiie Falls of Slia^vanegan 
are on the River St. Maurice, 25 miles 
from Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence 
River, between Montreal and Quebec. 
The St. Maurice, 186 feet in breadth at 
this point, makes a perpendicular descent 
of about 200 feet. The imposing char- 
acter of this scene is, as yet, but little 
known. Between the falls and the town 
of Three Rivers the St. Maurice affords 
excellent fishing. 

St. Aiiiie's Falls are 24 miles 
below Quebec. — (See Quebec.) 

RAILWAYS 

The Grand Trunk connects Montreal 
with Quebec, and each with Portland in 
Maine. From Montreal it follows the ' 
upper shore of the St. Lawrence and of 
Lake Ontario to Toronto, and thence con- 
tinues westward, across the peninsula of 
Canada West, via Port Sarnia, on the 
southern extremity of Lake Huron to the 
city of Detroit, in Michigan. The whole 
length of the road, with its present 
branches, is 1,050 miles. It connects 
with routes to Niagara Falls, with the '- 
line of the Great Western and Detroit < 
and Milwaukee Railways, and with other i 
routes to the West and Northwest. 

The Great Western Railway extends 
from Niagara Falls, 229 miles, west to 
Detroit, Michigan, connecting with the 
Michigan Central route for Chicago, etc. 

The Montreal and New York road ex- 



Montreal.] 



CANADA. 



[MONTEBAL. 



tends from Montreal, 67 miles, to Platts- 
bucg, and is a part of a route from Mon- 
treal to New York. 

The Champlain and St. Lawrence Rail- 
way extends from Montreal, 44 miles, to 
Rouse' sPoint on Lake Champlain, thence 
to New Yoi'k, Boston, etc. 

The JVortkem Eaihuai/ of Canada ex- 
tends, 94 miles, from Toronto on Lake 
lOntario to Collingwood on the Georgian 
[Bay, Lake Huron. It forms part of a 
pleasant route from New York to Lake 
Superior. 

i The Ottawa and Prescoit Railway ex- 
pends from Prescott (opposite Ogdens- 
pm'g), on the St. Lawrence, 54 miles, to 
bttawa, on the Ottawa River. 

The Hamilton and Toronto Branch ex- 
;ends, 38 miles, from Toronto to Hamilton, 
!onnecting the Grand Trunk and the 
(xreat Western routes. 

The Coburg and Peterhoro' Railway^ 
!8 miles, from Peterboro' to Coburg, on 
he Hue of the Grand Trunk^ between 
(lontreal and Toronto. 

Many other routes are either ia prog- 
ess or in contemplation — Canada vying 
f ith the " States " in this field of enter- 



MONTREAL. 



Hotels, the St. Lawrence Hall, Great 
t. James Street, a fine house, centrally 
)cated and well kept; the Donegana, 
[otre-Dame Street ; the Ottawa, Great 
t. James Street ; and the Montreal House, 
ustom-House Square, and opposite the 
ustom-House. Besides these leading 
stablishments, there are many other 
jmfortable houses and cafes, where 
avellers of all ranks and classes may 
3 lodged and regaled according to the 
iried humors of their palates and their 
irses. 

Montreal may be reached daily from 
cw York in from 15 to 18 hours, by the 
'^udson River or Harlem Railways to 
poy ; rail to Whitehall, and steamer on 
ake Champlain ; or by rail through Ver- 
iont, via Rutland, Burlington, and St. 
Ibans to Rouse's Point, or via Platts- 
iirg on Laka Champlain. From Boston, 
a Albany, or other routes to Lake 
laraplain, etc. ; or, via Portland and 
Grand Trunk Railway ;' time 30 hours. 



Montreal, the metropolis of British. 
North America, is situated on an island 
of the same name, about thirty miles long 
and ten wide, which is formed by a 
branch of the Ottawa on the north and 
the St. Lawrence on the south, and lies 
at the foot of a mountain, to which 
Jacques Cartier, in 1535, surveying with 
delight the magnificent prospect, gave 
the name of " Mont Royal." The pres- 
ent site of Montreal was occupied, at the 
time of Cartier's first visit, by an Indian 
village called Hochelaga. In 1542 the 
first European settlers ari'ived, and just 
one century later the original Indian 
name, consequent on the consecration of 
the spot on which the future city was to 
stand and its commendation to La Reine 
des Anges, gave place to the French one 
of " Ville Marie." This new name, in its 
turn, was replaced by the present one, in 
1*760, the date of British possession ; at 
which period Montreal had become a well- 
peopled and well-fortified town. Its 
population is now (1867) estimated at 
125,000, and is rapidly on the increase. 
The main branch of the Ottawa, which is 
the timber highway to Quebec, passes 
north of Montreal Island, and enters the 
St. Lawrence about 18 miles below the 
city ; about one-third of its waters is, 
however, discharged into Lake St. Louis, 
and joioing but not mingling at Caughna- 
waga, the two distinct bodies pass over 
the Sault St. Louis and Lachine Rapids 
— the dark waters of the Ottawa washing 
the quays of Montreal, while the blue St. 
Lawrence occupies the other shore. Nor 
do they merge their distinctive character 
until they are several mOes below Montreal. 
The quays of Montreal are unsurpassed 
by those of any city in America ; built of 
solid limestone, and uniting with the 
locks and cut-stone wharves of the La- 
chine Canal, they present for several miles 
a display of continuous masonry, which 
has few parallels. Unlike the levees of 
the Ohio and the Mississippi, no unsightly 
warehouses disfigure the river-side. A 
broad esplanade or terrace, built of lime- 
stone, the parapets of which are sur- 
mounted with a substantial iron railing. 
The houses in the suburbs are hand- 
somely built in the modern style, and 
mostly inhabited by the wealthy mer- 
chants. Including its suburbs, of which it 
437 



Montreal.] 



CANADA. 



[MONTUEAI 



has several, the city stretches along the 
river for two miles from southwest to 
northeast, aud, for some distance, extends 
between one and two miles inland. St. 
Paul Street, the chief commercial thor- 
oughfare, extends along the river the 
whole length of the city. Great St. James 
and Notre-Dame Streets are the fashion- 
able promenades. Montreal, with its 
beautiful villas, its glittering roofs and 
domes (all the latter being covered with 
tin), its tall spires and lofty towers, and 
its majestic mountain in the background, 
bursting on the eye of the tourist, ap- 
proach it from what direction he may, 
forms, together with the noble river, a 
vast and picturesque panorama that is, 
perhaps, unequalled in the whole of the 
American continent. 

The " Ice ShoTe," a most imposing 
spectacle, may be witnessed by those 
travellers who arrive at Montreal toward 
the beginning of April. This strange 
phenomenon results from the crowding 
of the ice about a mile below the citj^, 
where the channel of the river is com- 
paratively narrow; there it is packed, 
piled, and frozen into a solid mass of 
twenty to thirty feet in thickness, which, 
when lifted by the rising waters above, 
and set in motion again by the whole hy- 
draulic power of the gigantic stream, rushes 
onward until again impeded by the banks 
of the narrowing river. The lateral 
pressure it there exerts forces the hordage 
up on the land, where it not unfrequently 
accumulates to the height of 50 feet. 
Montreal is conspicuous among the cities 
of the New World for the number and 
magnificence of her public buildings. 
The principal of these is the cathedral 
of Notre-Dame, said to be the largest 
church on the continent. The cost of 
the cathedral was $400,000, and it is 
capable of seating 10,000 persons. It is 
surmounted by two stately towers, each 
220 feet high, from the top of which is a 
complete view of the city, the Rivef St. 
Lawrence, the colossal tubular bridge, and 
the blue hills of Vermont in the distance. 
At certain hours of the day a chime of 
bells peal forth their merry notes from 
the northeast tower, and from the north- 
west is sometimes heard the hoarse, hol- 
low tone of the " Gros Bourdon," which 
weighs 29,400 pounds. This noble edi- I 
438 ' ' 



fice is 255 feet long and 135 broad 
The Bonsccours Market is an imposin; 
Doric edifice, erected at a cost of $300,000 
and, as regards the convenience of its ar 
raugements and the spaciousness of it 
construction, it throws into the shade al 
similar structures on this continent. Ii 
one of the upper stories are the offices of 
the Corporation and Council Chamber 
aud a concert or ball room capable ol 
accommodating 4,000 people. The viev 
from the dome, overlooking the river ano 
St. Helen's Isle, is truly grand. 

The Nelson Monument, an elegant col 
umn erected to the memory of that re 
uowued naval hero, stands at the heai 
of the Place Jacques Cartier. 

The Seminary of St. Sidpice, adjoinint: 
the Cathedral Notre Dame, is 132 fee 
long, and 29 deep, and is surrounded b; 
spacious gardens and court-yards. 

The Bank of Montreal and the Ci{ 
Bank, the first a fine example of Corin 
thian architecture, stand side by side O] 
the Place d'Armes. 

St. Patrick''s Church (Catholic) occu 
pies a commanding position at the wes 
end of Lagauchetifere Street. The Bkh 
op's Church (Catholic), in St. Deni,; 
Street, is a very elegant structure. Thi 
remaining Oathohc churches are the Ri, 
collect in Notre-Dame Street, the Bonse 
cours, near the large market, and St 
Mary^s in GriffintowTi. There are alsi | 
chapels attached to all the nunneries, ii : 
some of which excellent pictures may b 
seen. 

Nunneries. — The Gray Nuns, in Found 
ling Street, was founded in 1692, for th 
care of lunatics and children. The Bote 
Bieu was established in 1644, for th' 
sick generally. The Black, or (Jongrcga 
tioncd Nunnery, in Notre-Dame Street 
dates from 1659. The sisterhood, at thi 
third and last of the conventual establishi 
ments of Montreal, devote themselves ti 
the education of young persons of thei 
own sex. The sti-anger desirous of visili 
iug either of the nunneries should apph 
to the Lady Superior for admission 
which is seldom refused. TheProtestan 
churches worthy of notice are St. Ai' 
drew's Church, a beautiful specimen o 
Gothic architecture, being a close iuiitt 
tion of Salisbury Cathedral, in Englaiu 
though of course on a greatly reduce 



, 



dONTREAL.] 



CANADA. 



[Ottawa River. 



icale. This, with S(. Faults Church, in 
St. Helen Street, are in connection with 
ihe Established Church of Scotland. The 
Gpiscopalian churches are, the beautiful 
lew edifice, Christ Church Cathedral, 
k. George's Church, in St. Joseph Street, 
te. Stephen''s, in Griffintown, Trinity, m 
it. Paul Street, and St. Thomases, in St. 
lary Street. Various other denomina- 
ions of Christians have churches — the 
jV^esleyans, a large and very handsome 
luilding in St. James Street, and also 
tilers in Griffintown and Montcalm 
[trect ; the Independents formerly had 
Ito houses, but now only the one in 
adegoude Street. This last was the 
ene of the sad riot and loss of life on 
e occasion of Gavazzi's lecture in 1852. 
he newly-erected Jesuit church, in 
leury Street, has the most highly or- 
fimeuted interior to be found in the city, 
he Free Church has also two places of 
orship one in Cote Street, and one in St. 
abriel Street ; besides these, there are 
le American and the United Presbyte- 
an, the Baptist, and the Unitarian 
lurches ; and a small Jewish synagogue, 
le last named being classical in design, 
lie Court-House is one of the most strik- 
g of the architectural specialities of the 
ty. The Fosi- Office is in Great James 
;reet. The Custom-House is a neat 
lilding on the site of an old market- 
ace, between St. Paul Street and the 
Ver. The Merchants' Exchange and 
\eading-Room are in St. Sacrament Street. 
be latter is a large and comfortable 
cm, well supplied with newspapers and 
iriodicals, English and American, all at 
e service of the stranger when properly 
troduced. Tlie General Hospital and 
■. Pairick^s Hospital are in Dorchester 
reet, the latter, however, at the west 
d of the town. McGiWs College is 
Ijautifully situated at the base of the 
puntain. The high-school department 
the college is in Belmont Street. The 
;y also possesses, besides the university 
McGill's College, many excellent insti- 
Itions for the promotion of learning — 
ench and English seminaries, a royal 
ammar-school, with parochial, imion, 
tional, Sunday, and otherpublic schools. 
, has numerous societies for the ad- 
'ucement of religion, science, and in- 
(|stry; and several public libraries. 



TJie Water-Works, a mile or so from 
the city, are extremely interesting for 
their own sake, and for the delightful 
scenery in the vicinity. 

The Victoria Bridge, which spans the 
great St. Lawrence at the city, is '' the 
lion par excellence of Montreal, the eighth 
wonder of the world, the link of the 
Grand Trunk Railway, connecting (for 
railway purposes only) the city of Mon- 
treal, on the island, with the main-land to 
the south, giving to the ancient Hochelaga 
an unbroken railway communication of 
1,100 miles in length, besides connec- 
tions." It is one of the noblest structures 
which we shall see in the whole long 
course of our American joumeyings. Its 
length is 9,194 feet, or nearly 2 miles. 
It rests, in this splendid transit, upon 24 
piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry, 
the central span being 330 feet in length. 
The heavy iron tube through which the 
railway track is laid is, in its largest 
dimensions, 22 feet high and 16 feet wide. 
The total cost of this bridge was $6,300,- 
000. It was formally opened, with high 
pomp and ceremony, amidst great popu- 
lar rejoicings, by the young heir to the 
British Crown, the Prince of Wales, 
during his visit to America in the summer 
of 1860. 

The Iluseum of the Natural History 
Society, near the Crystal Palace, is well 
worth seeing. Admission 25 cents. 

The Mount Royal Cemetery is 2 miles 
from the city, on the northern slope of 
the mountain. From the high road round 
its base, a broad avenue through the 
shaded hill-side gradually ascends to this 
pleasant spot. There are other romantic 
burying-grounds, both of the Catholic and 
the Protestant population, in the vicinity 
of Montreal, and other scenes which the 
visitor should enjoy — pleasant rides ail 
about, around the mountain and by the 
river, before he bids good-by to the 
Queen City of Canada. 

Tlie Otla^^a Kiver flows 800 
miles and enters the St. Lawrence on 
both sides of the Island of Montreal, trav- 
ersing in its way Lake Temiscaming, 
Grand Lake, and others. Rapids and 
falls greatly impede the navigation of its 
waters; but lend to them wonderful 
beauty. It is a wild forest region, that 
of the Ottawa, but little occupied hereto- 
439 



St. Lawrence.] 



CANADA. 



[St. Lawrence. 



fore by others than the rude lumbermen, 
though numerous settlements are now 
springing up, and its agricultural capa- 
cities are being developed. 



MONTREAL TO NIAGARA FALLS— UP 
TUE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER AND 
LAKE ONTARIO. 

The traveller may go from Montreal to 
Niagara, either by steamer on the St. 
Lawrence, or by the Grand Tnmk Rail- 
way, ^'^'B miles to Toronto on Lake On- 
tario. At Toronto he may cross the 
western end of the lake to the town of 
Niagara, and thence reach the falls by 
the Erie and Ontario Railway, 14 miles 
long ; or he may go less directly by wa- 
ter or by rail to Hamilton, and thence by 
rail again to the falls. 

"Tine §t. IjsaT^'remce . — This 
grand river, which drains the vast inland 
seas of America, extends from Lake On- 
tario, 750 miles, to the Gulf of St. Law- 
rence, and thence to the sea. Its en- 
tire length, including the great chain of 
lakes by which it is fed, is not less than 
2,200 miles. Ships of the largest size as- 
cend the river as far as Montreal. Its 
chief affluents are the Saguenay, east- 
ward, and the Ottawa on the west. The 
width of the St. Lawrence varies from 
about a mile to four miles ; at its mouth 
it is 100 miles across. It abounds in 
beautiful islands, of which there is a vast 
group, near its egress from Lake Ontario, 
known and admired by all the world as 
the "Thousand Isles." 

I'lac "TStoiascisad. Isles. — It is 
always a curious speculation to the voy- 
ager how his steamer is to find its way 
through the labyrinth of the Thousand 
Islands, which stud the broad waters like 
the countless tents of an encamped army, 
and ever and anon his interest is aroused 
to the highest pitch at the prospective 
danger of the passage of some angry 
rapid. All the journey east, from lake to 
lake of the great waters, past islands now 
miles in circuit, and now large enough 
only for the cottage of Liliputian lovers, 
is replete with ever-changing pleasure. 

ILia,c]iiiie. — From Montreal the 

traveller will proceed 9 miles to Lachine 

by railway, avoiding the rapids which the 

steamers sometimes descend. The latter 

440 



is termed "shooting the rapids;" and 
"it is one of the sublime experiences 
which can never be forgotten, and nevei 
adequately described. It is in the high- 
e=«t degree creditable to all connected 
with this branch of Canadian river navi- 
gation, that no accident of any conse- 
quence has ever happened, nor has a 
single life been lost in this beautiful but 
dangerous spot." 

"And we liave passed the terrible Lacliine, 

Have felt a fearless tremor through the soul, 
As the huge waves npreared their crests of green, 

Holding our feathery- bark in their control, 

Asa strong eagle holds an oi-iole. 
The brain gi-ows dizzy with the whirl and hiss 

Of the fast-croW'ding billows as they roll, 
Like struggling demons to the vexed abyss, 
Lashing the tortured crags with wild, demoniac 
bliss." 

Two miles above Lachine, on the Isle 
Dorval, was formerly the residence of Sir 
George Simpson, Governor of the Hud-' 
son's Bay Company, and of the officers of 
this, the chief post of that corporation. 
It was from this point that the orders 
from headquarters in London were sent 
to the numerous posts throughout the vast 
territory of the company ; and near the 
end of April each year a body of trained 
voyageurs set out hence in large canoes, 
called maitres canofy, with packages and 
goods for the various posts in the wilder- 
ness. Two centuries ago, the companions 
of the explorer Carticr, on arriving here, 
thought they had discovered a route to 
China, and expressed their joy in the 
exclamation of " La Chine! " Hence the 
present name, or so at least says tradi- 
tion. A costly canal overcomes the ob- 
struction of the rapids at Lachine. 

Tlie Villag'e oftlae l£apids;° 
©1*, CaMgliMa'wag'a. — An Iro- 
quois settlement lies opposite Lachine, at 
the outlet of the expansion of the river 
called Lake St. Louis. The Indians at 
Caughnawaga subsist chiefly by naviga- 
ting barges and rafts down to Montreal, 
and in winter, by a trade in moccasins, < 
snow-shoes, etc. They are mostly Ro-; 
man Catholics, and possess an elegant: 
church. 

lialce St. HiOiiis. — ^The brown.' 
floods of the Ottawa assist in forming this i 
great expanse of the St. Lawrence. They 
roll unmixed through the clearer water of 
the great river. On the northern shore 
of Lake St. Louis is the island of Mon- 



Ottawa City.] 



CANADA. 



[RiDEAU Falls. 



treal, 30 miles long. At the western 
Extremity is Isle Perrot. The Cascade 
Rapids separate the expanse just passed 
from Lake St. Francis. The Beauharnois 
Canal here is 11 J miles in length, and 
has 9 locks. 

Sjake St. Francis, into which 
the voyager now enters, extends 40 miles. 
[Midway on the right is the village of 
jLancaster, where a pile of stones or cairn 
lias been thrown up in honor of Sir John 
polborue, formei'ly Governor-General of 
Canada, now Lord Seaton. Leaving 
PLake St. Francis, we pass the passage of 
the celebrated Long Saidt rapids. Here, 
too, is the Cornwall Canal, 11-J^ miles in 
^ength, with 1 locks of noble size. 

Cornwall is a pleasant town, for- 
merly called "PoiuteMaline," in memento 
of the labor of ascending the river at this 
point. 
'Fl»e Village of St, Kegis 
es across from Cornwall. It forms the 
oundary between Canada and the State 
if New York, and also intersects the 
ract of land occupied by the 1,000 
roquois, American and British, who 
well here. 

l>iolicns©n ' l^antlimg is at the 
lead of the Cornwall Canal ; within the 
pace of the 38 miles which follow to 
Prcscott, the villages of Moulinette, 
Maria Town, and Matilda, are successive- 
ly passed. 

Xlac Battlc-Fielil of Cfery» 
scler's Farm^ where the Americans 
aiet a defeat in the war of 1812, lies a 
little above Maria Town. 

Prescott is rapidly recovering its 
irestige, lost whcii the construction of the 
Rideau Canal won its trade away to 
Kingston ; for now a railway from New 
York approaches it at Ogdensburg, and 
mother connects it with Ottawa City, on 
the Ottawa Eiver. Besides which ad- 
^'antages, it is on the line of the Grand 
\lrunk route. From Pi-escott may be 
^ccn the windmill and the ruined houses, 
pcmentoes of the attempt at invasion by 
Bchultz and his band pi 1838. We shall 
now take a trip, on the Ottawa and Prcs- 
cott Pailwa)/, to Ottawa, 

Ottawa, the capital of Canada, 
stands on the river of tlie same name, 54 
aoiles distant from Prescott, and 126 from 
Montreal. This prosperous little city. 



which was originally called Bytown, in 
honor of Colonel By, of the Royal Engin- 
eers, under whose command it was laid out 
in 1823, is divided into Lower Town, Cen- 
tral Town, and Upper Town. On Barrack 
Hill, in many respects a counterpart of 
the citadel of Quebec, are situated the 
Parliament and departmental buildings. 
These are all in the Italian-Gothic style, 
and are built of a kind of stone found in 
the vicinity. There is connected with 
the legislative halls a library capable of 
containing 300,000 volumes. Among the 
other principal public edifices may be men- 
tioned the Roman Catholic Church, one 
of the handsomest in Canada ; the Queen's 
Printing-House, and numerous other build- 
ings contributing to the stable appear- 
ance of the city. Ottawa is connected 
with Lake Ontario by the Rideau Canal, 
the entrance being at Kingston, 95 miles 
distant. It is the emporium of the Cana- 
dian staple, lumber. 

'Flae l£i«lean Falls, near the 
mouth of the Rideau, just below the city 
of Ottawa, is a charming scene. A mile 
lower it i"eceives, from the north, its 
greatest tributary, the Gatineau, which, 
with a course probably of 420 miles, 
drains an area of 12,000 square miles. 
For about 200 miles the upper course of 
this river is in the unknown northern 
couiitr)'. At the farthest point surveyed, 
217 miles from its mouth, the Gatineau 
is still a noble stream, a thousand feet 
wide, diminished in depth but not in 
width. Eighteen miles lower down, the 
Riviere au Lievre enters from the north, 
after running a course of 260 miles in 
length, and draining an area of 4,100 
miles. Fifteen miles below it, the Ottawa 
receives the North and South Nation 
Rivers on either side, the former 93 and 
the latter 100 miles in length. Twen- 
ty-two miles farther, the River Rouge, 
90 miles long, enters from the north. 
Tw(;nty-one miles lower, the Riviere 
dti Nord, 160 miles in length, comes in 
on the same side ; and, lastly, just above 
its mouth, it receives the River Assump- 
tion, which has a course of 130 miles. 
From Ottawa the river is navigable to 
Grenville, a distance of 58 miles, where 
the rapids that occur for 12 miles are 
avoided by a succession of canals. Twen- 
ty-tliree miles lower, at one of the mouths 
441 



Kingston.] 



CANADA. 



[Oswego. 



of tlie Ottawa, a single lock, to avoid a 
flight rapid, gives a passage into Lake St. 
Louis, ail expansion of the St. Lawrence 
above Montreal. The remaining half of 
the Ottawa's waters find their way to the 
St. Lawrence by passing in two channels, 
behind the Island of Montreal and the 
Isle of Jesus, in a course of SI miles. 
They are interrupted with rapids ; still 
it is by one of them that all the Ottawa 
lumber passes to market. At Bout de 
risle, therefore, the Ottawa is finally 
merged in the St. Lawrence, 130 miles 
below, from the city of Ottawa. 

KOCTES FROM MONTREAL UP THE OtTAWA. 

— Steamers run daily, during the summer 
months, betw^een Montreal and Ottawa, 
and Kingston and Ottawa, via the Rideau 
Canal. Above Ottawa the traveller may 
proceed, by carriage or by stage, nine 
miles, to the village of Aylmer, and thence 
by steamer to the Chats ; thence by rail- 
way, two miles ; then again by steamer 
to the Portage du Fort ; now, wagons for 
a while, and then again a steamer to Pem- 
broke, and yet another from thence to 
Deux Joachims ; aftenvard he must canoe 
it. The Ottavfa may also be reached by 
railway direct, from Prescott on the St. 
Lawrence to Ottawa City. 

Og'4leEisl5ia.a'g-, New York, the 
western terminus of the Northern Rail- 
way from Lake Champlain, is opposite 
Prescott. 

Maitlaml, built upon the site of 
an old French fort, is seven miles above 
Prescott. 

lSa°ocl£Tille is yet 5 miles more, 
westward. It is one of the best-built 
towns in Canada West. 

®amgfiEa©«jiae is 32 miles above 
Brockville. At Kingston, 20 miles yet 
beyond Gananoque, we leave the St. Law- 
rence, and approach the waters of Lake 
Ontario. In descending the river, the 
wonderful labyrinth of the Thousand Isles 
is passed just east of Kingston. Wolfe's 
Inland, a well-cultivated spot, is oppos'ite 
Kingston. 

Miifig-stOBi. — Hotels, Kenfs Brit- 
ish American, Irenes Hotel. 

The city of Kingston, the original capi- 
tal of Canada, modern as it appears, 
looks far back for its history, as its ad- 
vantageous loceile did not fail to attract 
the notice of the early French discoverers. 
442 



It was once occupied as a small fort 
called Cafaraqui, otherwise known a.s 
Frontcnac, in honor of the French count 
of that name, and was the scene of va- 
rious sieges and exploits before it passed, 
with all the territory of the Canadas, 
from French to British rule. It was from 
this point that murdei'ous expeditions 
were made by the Indians in the olden 
times against Albany and other English 
settlements of New York ; which in turn 
sent back here its retributive blows. The 
present city was founded in 1783. It 
has now a population of about 16,000. 

As a military station, it is only second 
to Quebec. Among its objects of inter- 
est are the fortifications of JFort Henry, 
on a hill upon the eastern side of the 
harbor; four fine Martello Towers off 
the town; and other defensive works; 
the UniversHy of Qiieeri's College; the 
Homan Catholic College of JRegiopolis, 
and the Provincial Penitentiary, a mile 
to the west of the city. 

As the navigation of the St. Lawrence 
ends at Kingston, the river boats are ex- 
changed here for others more suited to 
the lake vo)"ages. 

Ka a Ic e O aa t a, 1* i ©. — American 
Shore. — Let us, before we enter the great 
waters of Ontario, say a word to the 
traveller who may prefer to make the 
voyage along the American or lower 
shore of the lake. Fi'om the boundary 
line 45° the entire littoral is in the State 
of New York. 

ff'feiacli Crceli comes into the 
St. Lawrence as we leave it. It was liere 
that General Wilkinson embarked (No- 
vembei-, 1813), with 7,000 men, v,'ith the 
purpose of descending the river and at- 
tacking Montreal. A week subsequently, 
an engagement took place near Williams- 
burg, on the Canadian side, when the 
Americans came off but jjoorly. General 
Wilkinson being disappointecl in his ex- 
pectation of reenforcements from Platts- 
burg, retired to French Mills, and there 
went into winter quarters. This place 
was afterward named Fort Covington, in 
memory of General Covington, who fell 
at the battle of AVilliamsburg. 

Sacliett's Mai-l>©r, (N. Y.)— 
(See New York State.) 

Os"weg-©. — Hotel, TJie American. 
— Oswego (N. Y.) is the chief commercial 



i 



[Toronto.] 



CANADA. 



[Hamilton. 



port of the American shore of Ontario. 
It is very agreeably situated at the mouth 
of the Oswego River. The Oswego Canal 
comes in here (38 miles) from Syracuse, 
and the railway, also from the same 
place. 

CBaarlotte^ the port of the city of 
Kochester (N. T.), is at the approach to 
Lake Ontario, of the beautiful Genesee 
lliver. — (See New York State.) 

From the mouth of the Genesee to Fort 
Niagara, a distance of 85 miles, the coast 
now" presents a monotonous and forest- 
covered level, with clearing only here and 
there. 

Having now peeped at the American, 
or southern shore, we will go back to 
Kingston, and start again on the upper 
side of the lake, making first for Toronto, 
165 miles distant ; from Montreal, 333 
miles. 

Col>iM*g', with a population of about 
5,000, is YO miles from Toronto, and 90 
miles from Kingston. It has many and 
varied manufactories ; and owing to its 
comparative proximity to Rochester, it 
ranks only second to Toronto and Hamil- 
ton in point of general business. A rail- 
way from Peterboro' (30 miles distant) 
comes in here. In the vicinage is the 
Victoria College, founded by act of the 
Provincial Legislature in 1842, and at- 
tended by 150 students. There is a jail 
here, a strong, massive, and imposing 
structure. 

S^ojrt Hope is seven miles above 
Coburg. From this point, or from Co- 
burg, the journey to Kingston is often 
I charmingly made overland, through a 
beautiful country at the head of the Bay 
of Quinie, a singular arm of the St. 
Lawrence. 

Tor onto, — Hotel, LamUs. To- 
ronto is the largest and most populous 
city in Canada West. Some eighty years 
ago the site of the present busy mart was 
i occupied by two Indian families only. 
I In 1*793, Governor Simcoe began the set- 
jtlement under the name of York, changed, 
iwhen it was incorporated, in 1834, to 
S Toronto — meaning, in the Indian tongue, 
i " The place of meeting." One of the 
[principal thoroughfares, Yonge Street, 
i extends, through a flourishing agricultural 
[district, to the rare length (for a street) 
'of 36 miles. The population, in 1817, 



numbered only 1,200; in 1850, it had 
reached 25,000 ; and now, it is upward 
of 60,000. 

Among the public buildings of Toronto 
the traveller will perhaps please himself 
with a peep at the Catholic Church of St 
Michael, the St. James's Cathedral (Eng- 
lish), the Univei'sity of Toronto, the St. 
Lawrence Hall and Market, the Parlia- 
ment House, Osgoode Hall, the Post- 
OflSce, the Court-House, the Exchange, 
the Mechanics' Institute, Knox's Church, 
Trinity College, Upper Canada College, 
the Lunatic Asylum, the Jail, and the 
Normal and Model Schools. At Toronto, 
the traveller may, if he pleases, reach 
Niagara direct, without touching at Hamil- 
ton, as we propose to do in our present 
journey. 

filsaiiiilt, ©IB. — Hotels, Anglo- 
Ameriean and the City Hotel. 

Hamilton is among the most beautiful 
and most prosperous cities of Canada. 
Many advantages promise it a brave future. 
From its zeal and eagerness it has been 
named the " ambitious little city." Its 
streets are wide and well-laid out, 
and its buildings are in general ele- 
gant ; they are built for the most part 
of white stone, an ample supply of which 
is found near the city. The Post-Office 
is on James Street ; and the p)rincipal 
banks and business houses are situated 
on that street and King Street. It was 
laid out and settled in 1813, by a person 
of the name of Hamilton; it is situated 
on Burlington Bay, at the head of the 
western extremity of Lake Ontario, con- 
nected with the Eastern capitals of the 
United States, and with Quebec, Montreal, 
and Toronto by the Grand Trunk and 
the Hamilton and Toronto Railicays ; 
and with Lake Huron and the Mississippi 
States by the Great Western Railviay, 
which traverses the garden lands of 
Canada; and, via the Suspension Bridge 
at Kiagara, with the whole railway system 
of New York. The distance from To- 
ronto to Hamilton, by the steamer is 45 
miles — time, two and a half hours; by 
i-ailway, 38 miles — time (express), 1 hour 
24 minutes. The population of Hamilton, 
in 1845, was 6,500 ; at this time it ex- 
ceeds 25,000. 

From. Ha,n3Lilton to tlie 
Fa-lls. — Distance, by the Great Wist- 
443 



Lake Region.] 



CANADA. 



[Lake Region 



cm Railway, from Ilomilton to the Sus- 
pension Bridge, 43 miles — time, 1 hour, 
35 minutes. Stations, Ontario, Grimsby, 
Beanisville, Jordan, St. Catharine's, Tho- 
rold, Niafjarii Falls. 

Si. Catliai-iiae's is the chief 
point of interest on this part of our route. 
Its pleasant topography, and, more par- 
tieularly, its mineral springs, make it 
a place of great summer resort. Here 
we leave the reader to establish himself 
at Niagara, and to see all its marvels, 
having elsewhere pointed out where he 
should go, and what should be his 
itineraire while there. (See Niagara 
Falls, New York.) 



TirE LAKE REGION. 

A delightful tour of a few weeks may be 
made, in the heat of the summer, among 
the natural wonders of the region of the 
Great Lakes, to Mackinac, the Sault Ste. 
Marie, and the shores of Lake Superior, 
returning, perhaps, by some one of the 
lower routes to the Atlantic, from the 
head-waters of the Mississipp.i. 

Routes. — The leading route through 
Canada is from Toronto, which may be 
easily and speedily reached by routes al- 
ready described. From New York, by the 
Hudson River and Lake Champlaiu to 
Montreal, and thence by the Grand Trmik 
Railway ; or by the Central Road from 
Albany to Buffalo, and by Niagara ; or, by 
Niagara, via the NeioYork and, Erie Rail- 
way ; or, from Portland or Boston, by 
railroad to Montreal, etc. By steamboat 
daily, from Buffxilo, or from Chicago, etc., 
to Mackinac (or Mackinaw, as the word 
is pronounced). 

At Toronto, the traveller will take the 
Collingwood route, by the Ontario, Sim- 
coe, and Hur<in Railway, 94 miles, to 
Collingwood, at the head of the Georgian 
Bay or Manitoulin Lake, the northeast 
part of Lake Huron. Huron is the third 
in size of the five great inland seas, which 
pour their floods into the St. Lawrence. 
It lies between 43° and 46° 15' north 
latitude, having the State of Michigan on 
the south-southwest, and Canada West 
upon all other points, excepting where 
the Straits of Mackinac and the Falls, 
or Sault Ste. Marie enter it from Lakes 
444 



Michigan and Superior, and at its outle 
in the St. Clair River. It is divided h\ 
tlie peninsula of Cabot's head, and th( 
Manitoulin Islands, the upper portion!' 
being the north channel and the Georgia! 
Bay, which we reach at Collingwood, 
The length of Lake Huron, following its' 
crescent shape, is about 280 miles, and 
its greatest breadth, not including the 
Georgian Bay, is 105 miles; its average' 
width is 70 miles. Lake Huron is 352 
feet above Lake Ontario, and 600 feet 
above the level of the sea. The depth is 
1,000 feet — greater than that of any 
other in the grand chain of which it is a 
link. Off Saginaw, leads, it is said, have 
been dropped to a depth of 1,800 feet, 
which is 1,200 feet below the level of 
the Atlantic, and yet without finding 
bottom. The waters here are so pure 
and clear that objects may be distinctly 
seen from 50 to 100 feet iaelow the sur- 
face. In these notable waters there are 
said to be more than three thousand 
islands. 

From Collingwood, the route is by 
suitable steamers to Mackinac, or the 
Straits of Mackinac, which are the con- 
necting links between Lake Michigan 
and Lake Huron. The Island of Macki- 
nac has a circumference of about nine 
miles, and its shores and vicinage are 
picturesque and romantic in the highest 
degree. The Arched Rock, facing the 
water, and rising to the elevation of some 
200 feet, makes a bold and striking pic- 
ture from all points on the lake, and 
especially as you look through its rude 
arches from the summit. Robinson's 
Folly is an attractive bluff" on the north 
shore. Years ago a Mr. Robinson, after J 
whom the bluff is named, erected a sum- 
mer-house upon its crest. Hei'e he passed 
his days, and oftentimes his nights, de- 
spite the cautions of the people about 
him, until, in an unlucky tempest, he 
and his aerie nest were swept away to- 
gether. 

TTIse Cave of SliTEalls is upon 
the western shore of the island. Once 
upon a time, it is said, a party of Siou.x 
Indians were pursued hither by the 
Ottawas, who imprisoned and destroyed 
their foes in this cavern, by building fires 
at its mouth. Hence the name of the 
cave. The traveller, Henry, was one 



Sault Ste. Maeie.] 



CANADA. 



[Lake Superior 



night secreted here by a friendly Indian, 
when, to his surprise and horror, the 
morning light showed that he had been 
sleeping soundly among a bed of human 
bones ! 

The Needles, another natural wonder 
of Maclvinac, is a bold rock, in form not 
unlike a light-house. This elevation 
commands a panorama of the entire 
island, and a fine view of the crumbhng 
and weed-covered ruins of Fort Holmes. 
Days of delight may be passed amidst 
the natural beauties of land and water at 
Mackinac, made doubly picturesque by 
the wild frontier liie yet found here, and 
mingled, too, with the still existing homes 
and presence of the red men. Fort 
Mackinac stands upon a rocky height, 
150 feet above the village, which it over- 
looks. An agency for Indian affairs is 
established here, which is, from time to 
time, the resort of deputations and bands 
of the wild dwellers of the surrou'nding 
■wilderness. Immense quantities of fish 
are sent from Mackinac. Steamboats 
from Detroit, Chictigo, and other places, 
stop here coutimially. 

^aiiit Ste. Marie. — ^Passing on 
toward Lake Superior, a voyage of eight 
pleasant hours, in a steamer, will bring us 
to the famous Falls of St. Mary, in the 
Strait of St. Mary, which connects the 
waters of Lake Superior and Lake Huron, 
and separates Canada West from the 
upper part of Michigan. The strait ex- 
tends 63 miles from the southeast ex- 
tremity of Lake Superior until it reaches 
Lake Huron. Its course is sometimes 
narrow, and broken into angry rapids ; 
again, it widens into beautiful lakelets, 
and winds amid enchanting islands. . It 
is navigable for vessels drawing eight 
feet of water, up to within a mile of Lake 
Superior, where the passage is interrupt- 
ed by the- great "Sault" or Falls. The 
Sault is a series of turbulent rapids, with 
a total descent of ^2 feet in the course 
of three-quarters of a mile. The passage 
'of these falls, or the " running the rapids," 
ias it is called, is most exhilarating sport. 
The rapids are broken up into several 
different channels, and among them are 
scattered little islands, such as you see at 
Ningara, and, like them, bristling with 
cedars in all possible attitudes. At this 
point, on the American side, is the little 



village of the Sault— an old settlement in 
the State of Michigan, founded by the 
Jesuits about two centuries ago. It has 
evidently seen arid felt nothing of the 
great progress which has been building 
up cities and States. Here is to be seen 
the native owner of the soil and the half- 
breed (a cross of the French and Indian 
blood), and many other objects of inter- 
est. These rapids are not unlike those 
of Niagara, excepting that, instead of 
ending upon the brink of a terrible preci- 
pice, they dechne with the steady flow 
of a wide river, and steamers and canoes 
may fearlessly enter them. They run in 
different channels, everywhere dodging 
the numerous little cedar-covered islands 
in their way. The Sault yields abundant 
supphes of finny inhabitants ; for the ex- 
cellence of its white fish it is particularly 
renowned. Upon the British side of the 
river there is an ancient-looking establish- 
ment, occupied as an agency of the Hud- 
son's Bay Company. The St. Mary's Ship 
Canal, a noble work, now overcomes the 
obstruction made by these rapids in the 
passage from Lake Huron to Lake Su- 
pei'ior; the locks in this massive canal are, 
perhaps, the largest in the world. Here- ■ 
tofore, merchandise from Chicago, De- 
troit, Buffiilo, and other places, had to 
be discharged and conveyed over a rail- 
road to the upper end of the Sault, and 
then hauled down to the water-side at 
the opposite extremity. The Chippewa 
Hotel is a good house on the American 
side of the^rapids ; and Pine's Hotel is a 
well-kept establishment on the British 
shore. Steamers leave the Sault, daily, 
for all places on Lake Superior and the 
neighboring waters. 

l^alie Superior. — We enter Lake 
Superior after the passage of i\\e Sault 
Ste. Ifarie, between two bold promonto- 
ries, rising to the height of 200 to 300 
feet, called Cape Gro and Cape Iroquois. 
This grand inland sea is the largest body 
of fresh water on the globe. Its greatest 
length is 420 miles, its extreme breadth 
is 160 miles, and its circuit, 1,750 miles. 
On its west and northwest shore is Minne- 
sota, on the southern border are Wisconsin 
and Michigan, while British America lies 
on all other sides. The waters, which 
are wonderfully transparent, come, by 
more than 200 streams, from a basiii 
445 



Lake Superior.] 



CANADA. 



[QUEi3E( 



covering an area of 100,000 square miles. 
The noi'th, and south, and western parts 
arc full of islands, while in the central 
portions of the lake there are few or 
none. In the north, these islands are 
many of them large enough to atTord am- 
ple shelter for vessels. The picturesque 
regions of the lake are along the northern 
shore. In this direction the scenery is 
of a very bold and striking character. 
For many miles here there are continuous 
ranges of clifls, which reach sometimes 
an elevation of 1,500 feet; on- the south 
the banks are low and sandy, except 
where they ai'e broken by occasional 
limestone ridges. These ridges rise near 
the eastern extremity, upon this side 300 
feet, in imique and surprising perpendicu- 
lar walls and cliffs, brokeninto the oddest 
forms, indented with grotesque caverns, 
and jutting out into ghostly headlands. 
It is these strange formations which are 
famous under the name of the " Pictured 
Rocks." This range is on the east of 
Point Keweenaw. The rocks have been 
colored by continual mineral drippings. 
A similar rocky group lies to the west of 
the Apostle Islands. It is some hundred 
feet high, and is broken by numberless 
arches and caves of the most picturesque 
character. On the summit of these bluffs 
there is everywhere a stunted growth of 
Alpine trees. The Porcupine Mountains, 
upon the southern shore of the lake, ap- 
pear, says a voyager, to be about as ex- 
tensive (though not so lofty) as the Cat- 
skills. Of the islands of Lake Superior, 
the largest, which is some 40 miles in 
length, and from seven to ten broad, is 
called Royal Isle. Its hills rise to the 
altitude of 400 feet, with fine bold shores 
on the north, and many fine bays on the 
south. It is, like all this region, a famous 
fishing-ground. Near the western ex- 
tremity of the lake, there is a group 
known as Apostle Islands. They form a 
trio of forest-covered heights, adding 
greatly to the beauty of the landscape 
ai ound ; on the extreme end of the largest, 
is the trading-post called La Pohiie, in- 
habited by Indians and white adventurers. 
It is a great place of annual I'endezvous 
for the red man and the trader, and a 
starting-point for tramps to the regions 
of the Mississippi. The shores of Lake 
Superior have long been extensively ex- 
446 



plored for their abundant copper wealtli 
and mines have been opened at all points 
I^07id du Lac (Superior City) is in Mitint 
sota, on the Saint Louis River, 22 mile 
from its entrance into Lake Superior. I 
is accessible by steamboat ; and its won 
derfully wild and romantic hills, am 
rocks, and glens, are well v.'orth a visi 
from the tourist of the Great Lakes. — 
(For continuation of this route, see chap, 
ters on Minnesota, Michigan, Wiscos 
SIN, etc.) 

Having now visited the great Lak'> 
Region, the tourist can return by steame 
either to Collingwood, Goderich, or Sarnie 
thence by rail to Toronto, and from thi 
latter city by steamer down Lake Outarii 
and the St. Lawrence River to Quebec. 



aTTEBEC. 

Hotels. — The leading hotels are tlf 
St. Louis and RiisscWs; they are tlr 
largest and most central and are moderat 
in their terms. 

Quebec may be pleasantly reache 
from New York, via Boston to Portlant 
Maine, and thence 3 17 miles by th 
Grand Trimk Railivay, total distance, b' 
this route, from New York to Quebec 
650 miles; or from New York by th! 
Hudson River Railvjay or steamboats ; x 
by the Harlem Railway to Albany, them 
to Whitehall, thence on Lake Champlaii 
to Plattsburg, thence by the Ilontrei 
and New York Railway to Montreal, an 
from Montreal by steamer down the S' 
Lawrence, or by the Grand Trunk liav 
way. Distance by railway, from Montrn 
al to Quebec, 1(58 miles. There are othd 
railway routes from Boston to Quebec 
via Albany, or by the Vermont Centrt 
and Vermont and Canada lines throug 
St. Albans to Montreal. 

Quebec is the oldest, and, after Mot 
treal, the most populous city in Britis 
North America. It is upon the left bam 
of the St. Lawrence river, and some 34 
miles from the ocean. 

The city^\'as founded in 1608, by thi 
geographer Champlain. It fell into th' 
possession of the British in 1629, bi 
was restored three years later. Th 
English made an unsuccessful attempt t 
regain possession of it in 1690. It wa 



QlTKBEC] 



CANADA. 



[VlCINITT, 



finally captured by Wolfe, in 1759, after 
an heroic defence by Montcalm. 

The city is divided into the Upper and 
Lower Town ; the ascent from the latter 
being by a very steep and winding street, 
through Prescott Gate. The Upper Town 
occupies the highest part of the promon- 
tory, which is surrounded by strong walls 
and other fortifications ; while the Lower 
Town is built around the base of Cape 
Diamond. The latter is the business 
quarter. 

Tlie Ciladel, a massive defence crown- 
ing the summit of Cape Diamond (thus 
named from the circumstance of quartz 
crystals, spai-kling hke diamonds, being 
found in the dark-colored slate of which 
the cape is composed), covers about 40 
acres with its numerous buildings. Its 
impregaable position makes it perhaps 
the strongest fortress on this continent ; 
and the name of the " Gibraltar of 
America " has been often not given to it 
inaptly. The- access to the Citadel is 
from the Upper Town, the walls of 
which are entered by five gates. Near 
the Palace gate is the Hospital and a 
large Guard-House. By St. Louis gate, 
on the southwest, the tourist will reach 
the memorable Plains of Abraham, the 
scene of Wolfe's victory and death, in 
the year 1Y59. The Prescott Gate is the 
only entrance on the St. Lawrence side 
of the fortress. 

The view from the Citadel is remarka- 
bly tine, taking in, as it does, the oppo- 
site banks of the great river through 
many picturesque miles up and down. 
The promenade here, on the ramjjarts 
above the esplanade, js charming. In 
the public garden, on Des Carrieres 
street, there is an obelisk to the memory 
of Wolfe and Montcalm. At the foot of 
the Citadel stands a tower, over which 
now floats the British flag, on the spot 
where Montgomery and his soldiers all 
fell, swept by the grape-shot of a single 
gun manned by a Canadian artillerist. 

The ParUament House. — Among the 
chief pubhc edifices of Quebec is the 
New Parliament Holise, which supplies 
the place of the building destroyed by 
fire in 1854. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral was 
erected under the auspices of the first 
Bishop of Quebec, and was consecrated 



in 1666. It is 216 feet long, and 180 
feet in breadth. There is in the Lower 
Town a chapel noticeable for its anti- 
quity ; it was built and used as a church 
before 1690. It is called Notre Dame 
des Victoires. 

The Ursuline Convent and the Church 
of St. Ursula are striking buildings, 
encompassed by pleasant gardens. This 
establishment was founded in 1639, and 
holds a high position in the public esteem. 
It accommodates a superior, 50 nuns, and 
6 novices, who give instruction in reading, 
writing, and needlework. The building 
was destroyed by fire in 1 650, and again 
in 1686. The remains of the Marquis de 
Montcalm are buried here in an excava- 
tion made by the bursting of a shell 
within the precincts of the convent. 

The Artillery Barracks form a range 
of stone buildings 5,000 feet in length. 

Durham Terrace is tlie site of the 
old castle of St. Louis, which was entire- 
ly consumed by fire in 1834. 

The English Protestant Cathedral, con- 
secrated in 1804, is one of the finest 
modern edifices of the city. Tradition 
points to its site as the spot upon which 
Cham plain erected his first tent. 

St. Andreui's Church, in St. Anne 
Street, is in connection with the Scotch 
Establishment. The Methodists have a 
chapel in St. Stanislaus Street, and 
another in St Louis suburb, called the 
Centenary Chapel. 

Hie Lower Town. — It is in this por- 
tion of the city that the traveller will 
find the Exchange, the Post-Office, the 
banks, and other commercial establish- 
ments. 

Xlie ff»laiMS of Al>ral£aiu: 
may be reached via the St. Louis Gate, 
and the countei'scarp on the left, leading 
to the glacis of the citadel hence tow- 
ard the right ; approaching one of the 
Martello Towers, where a fine view of 
the St. Lawrence opens. A little be- 
yond, up the right bank, is the spot 
where General Wolfe fell on the famous 
historic ground of the Plains of Abra- 
ham. It is the highest ground, and is 
surrounded by wooden fences. Here 
stands the St. Foye monument, erected 
to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. 
It is of bronzed metal, standing on a 
stone base, and surmounted by a bronze 
447 ' 



MONTMORENCI.] 



CANADA. 



[Chacdierk. 



statue of Bellona. On the pedestal are 
simple and appropriate inscriptions. 
Wiiliin an enclosure lower down is a 
stone well, from which water was 
broup;ht to the d_ying hero.. 

"WoSle's Cove, the spot where 
Montgomery was killed, and other scenes, 
telling tales of the memorable past, will 
be pointed out to the traveller in this 
neighborhood. 

'JETIae Moiiut llermon Ceme- 
tery is about 3 miles from the city, on 
the south side of the St. Louis road. 
The grounds are 82 acres in extent, 
sloping irregularly but beautifully down 
the precipices which overhang the St. 
Lawrence. They were laid out by the 
late Major Douglas, of the United States 
Engineers, who had previously displayed 
his skill and taste in the arrangements 
of the Greenwood Cemetery, near New 
York. 

liOrettc. — To see Lorette may be 
made the object of an agreeable excur- 
sion from Quebec, following the banks of 
the St. Charles River. 

ILialce §4. Cliavles is 4 miles 
long and one broad. It is divided by 
projecting ledges into two parts. It is a 
delightful spot in its natui-al attractions, 
and in the fine sport it affords to the 
angler. 

Tlae Falls of Moiitmoremci. 
Nine miles below Quebec, the impetuous 
Montmorenci (so called after a French 
admiral of that name), after ' fretting 
itself a whirlpool route, and leaping for 
miles down the steps of a rocky bed, 
rushes with velocity toward the ledge, 
over which it falls pouring its fleecy cata- 
ract 250 feet into the chasm below. The 
foam rising from the foot of the falls be- 
comes frozen in winter, and the ice accu- 
mulating, layer upon layer, forms two 
cones, one of which not unfrequently 
attains the height of 100 feet, offering to 
those who are courageous enough to ascend 
to its apex, a full fnmt view of the edge 
of the precipice, and the still sui'face of 
the Montmorenci River sleeping in its icy 
bed. The second cone is much used for 
" toboggining." Experts in this exclu- 
sively Canadian amusement climb to the 
top of the cone ; and then, perching 
themselves on their " toboggins " (a sort of 
light Indian sleigh), dash down the glassy 
448 



slope with a velocity which, increasing 
every instant, occasionally carries the 
hardy tobogginers a full half mile from 
the pinnacle whence they started. Before 
quitting the picturesque banks of the 
Montmorenci, the tourist should by all 
means visit tlie Natural Stcjys, 2 miles 
above the cataract. The Umestone rock 
bordering the river is there formed for 
half a mile, into a succession of steps, 
each about a foot in depth, as regularly 
arranged as if they had been hewn out by 
human hands. The "Mansion House," 
in which the Duke of Kent passed the 
summer of 1791, stands at a short dis- 
tance from the falls. 

Tlie Falls of St. Anne, in 
the river St. Anne, 24 miles below Quebec, 
are in the neighborhood of great pictur- 
esque beauty. Starting from the city in 
the morning betimes, one may visit Mont- 
morenci, and proceed thence with ease 
the same evening to St. Anne. Next 
morning after a leisurely survey of these 
cascades, there will be most of the day 
left to get back, with any detours that 
may seem desirable, to Quebec. 

Tlae l^'alls of tlie Cliaudiere 
are reached via Point Levi. The rapid 
i-iver plunges over a precipice of 130 feet, 
presenting very much the look of boiling 
water, whence its name of chaudiere, cr 
caldron. The cataract is broken into 
three separate parts by the intervention 
of huge projecting rocks, but it is re- 
united before it reaches the basin beneath. 
We now take oi;r leave of Quebec with 
its unique natural beauties, and its win- 
ning stories, with the remembrance of 
some of the impressions it made upon 
Professor Silliman, when he visited it 
years ago : " Quebec," he writes, " at 
least for an American city, is certainly a 
very" peculiar place. A military town — 
containing about 20,000 inhabitants — 
most compactly and permanently built — 
environed, as to its most important parts, 
by walls and gates, and defended by 
numei-ous heavy cannon — gari-isoned by ' 
troops having the arms, the costume, the 
music, the discipline of Europe — foreign 
in language, features, and origin, from 
most of those whom they are sent to de- 
fend — founded upon a rock, and in its 
highest parts overlooking a great extent 
of country — between 300 and 400 miles 



The Sacuejsiay.] 



CANADA. 



[The Saguenay. 



from the ocean, iu the midst of a great 
continent, and yet displaying fleets of 
foreign merchantmen in its fine capacious 
bay, and showing all the bustle of a 
crowded seaport — its streets narrow, 
populous, and winding up and down al- 
most mountainous declivities — situated 
in the latitude of the finest parts of 
Europe, exhibiting in its environs the 
beauty of a European capital, and yet 
in winter smarting with the cold of 
Siberia — governed by a people of different 
language and habits from the mass of the 
population, opposed in religion, and yet 
leaving that population without taxes, 
and in the full enjoyment of every privi- 
lege, civil and religious." 

Tliere are pleasant drives to Spencer 
Wood, the Governor-General's residence, 
and to Chdiemi-Bigot, an antique and 
massive ruin, standing in solitary loneli- 
ness, at the foot of the Charlesbourg 
Mountain. 

When iu Quebec the tourist should by 
all means take a run down to the Sague- 
nay River, which magnificent trip can be 
performed by taking the railway at Point 
Levi for Eivi^re du Loup, and there 
crossing by steamer ; or, during the sum- 
mer months he can take the steamer from 
Quebec direct to the Saguenay. 

Xlie Sagneiaay is the largest 
tributary of the St. Lawrence, and un- 
questionably one of the most remarkable 
rivers on the continent. Its head-water 
is Lake St. John, 40 miles long, which, 
although 11 large rivers fall into it, has 
no other outlet tlian the Saguenay. The 
original name of this river was Ohicouiimi, 
an Indian word signifying deep water ; 
and its present one is said to be a cor- 
ruption of ISaint-Jean Nez. The first 
place of interest to point out to the 
traveller is 

Tadoussac^ lying a short distance 
above Pointe aux Vaches, 140 miles from 
Quebec. Tadoussac, apart from its pleas- 
ant situation as a watering-place, is in- 
teresting from the circumstance of having 
been tlie spot on which stood the first 
stone-and-mortar building ever erected 
on the continent of America. The scenery 
here is wild and romantic in the extreme ; 
and the waters all round abound in ex- 
cellent salmon and trout. Just iu the rear 
of Tadoussac, and at the Bergeronnes, 



and on the opposite side of the Saguenay 
among the Canard Lakes, and at the 
Little Saguenay, St. John, Grand Bay, 
and Chicoutimi, Kenogami, and other 
lakes, the trout are only too plenty, very 
large and glad to be caught. Seal-hunt- 
ing is also a favorite sport for those who 
resort to these shores ; several varieties 
of the animal are here met with in abun- 
dance. 

The journey up the Saguenay may 
be made semi-weekly by steamer from 
Quebec, or by the Grand Tnmk Railway, 
101 miles to St. Paschal, Riviere du Loup, 
opposite the mouth of the Saguenay, and 
thence by steamer. The course of the 
Saguenay — between lofty and precipitous 
heights, and, in its upper part, amid rush- 
ing cataracts — is 126 miles from Lake St. 
John to the St. Lawrence, which it enters 
140 miles below Quebec. Large ships as- 
cend 60 miles. In the trip from Quebec to 
the Saguenay beauties, there are many in- 
teresting points to be noticed in the pre- 
ceding journey of 120 miles down the St. 
Lawrence — the ancient-looking settle- 
ments on its banks, and the not less 
picturesque habitants of the countiy. A 
day's sail lands the voyager at Riviere du 
Loup, where he passes the night on board 
his steamer, waiting for the following 
morning to resume his journey. The 
Saguenay is a perfectly straight river, 
with grand precipices on either side. It 
has neither windings nor projecting bluffs, 
nor sloping banks, nor winding shores, 
like other rivers, nor is its stern, strange 
aspect varied by either village or villa. 
" It is," says a voyager thither, " as if 
the mountain range had been cleft asun- 
der, leaving a horrid gulf of 60 miles in 
length and 4,000 feet in depth, through 
the gray mica schist, and still looking 
fresh and new. One thousand five hun- 
dred feet of this is perpendicular' cliff, 
often too steep and solid for the hemlock 
or dwarf-oak to find root ; in which case, 
being covered with colored lichens and 
moss, their fresh-looking fractures often 
appear, in shape and color, like painted 
fans, and are called the pictured rocks. 
But those parts more slanting are thickly 
covered with stunted trees, spruce and 
maple and birch growing wherever they 
can find crevices to extract nourishment; 
and the bare roots of the oak, grasping 
449 



TiiR Saguenay.] 



CANADA. 



[The Saguenay. 



the rock, have a resemblance to gigantic 
claws. The bases of these clifl's lie flir 
under the water, to an unknown depth. 
For many miles from its mouth no sound- 
ings have been obtained with 2,000 feet 
of line; and for the entire distance of 60 
miles, until you reach Ha-ha Bay, the 
largest ships can sail, without obstruction 
from banks or shoals, and, on reaching 
the extremity of the bay, can drop their 
anchors in 30 fathoms. The view up 
this river is singular in many respects ; 
hour after hour, as you sail along, preci- 
pice after precipice unfolds itself to view, 
as a moving panorama ; and you some- 
times forget the size and height of the 
objects you are contemplating, until re- 
minded by seeing a ship of 1,000 tons 
lying like a small pinnace under the 
towering cliff to which she is moored ; 
for even in these remote and desolate 
regions, industry is at work, and, although 
you camiot clearly discern them, saw-mills 
liave been built on some of the tributary 
streams which fall into the Saguenay. 
But what strikes one most is the absence 
of beach or strand, except in a few places 
where mountain torrents, rushing through 
gloomy ravines, have washed down the 
detritus of the hills, and formed some 
alluvial land at the mouth, no coves, nor 
creeks, nor •projecting rocks are seen in 
which a boat could find shelter, or any 
footing be obtained . The characteristic is 
a steep wall of rock rising abruptly from the 
water ; a dark and desolate region, where 
all is cold and gloomy; the mountains 
hidden with driving mist, the water black 
as ink, and cold as ice. No ducks nor 
sea-gulls sitting on the water, or scream- 
ing for their prey. No hawks nor eagles 
soaring overhead, although there is an 
abundance of what might be called ' eagle 
clifis.' No deer coming down to drink 
at the streams, no squirrels nor birds to 
be seen among the trees. No fly on the 
water, nor swallows skimming over the 
surface. It reminds you of 

' That lake wliose gloomy shore 
Skylark never warbled o'er.' ' 

Two living things you may see, but these 
are cold-blooded animals ; you may see 
the cold seal, spreading himself upon his 
clammy rock, watching for his prey. You 
may see him make his suUen plunge into 
450 



the water, like to the Styx for blackness. 
You may see him emerge again, shaking 
his smooth oily sides, and holding a huge 
living salmon writhing in his teeth ; and 
you may envy the fellow faring so sump- 
tuously, tmtil you recollect that you have 
just had a hearty breakfast of fict^h- 
grilled salmon yourself, and that you 
enjoyed it as much as the seal is now 
enjoying his raw morsel. And this 
is all you see for the first twenty 
miles, save the ancient settlement of 
Tadoussac at the entrance, and the pretty 
cove of L'Ance k I'Eau, Avhich is a 
fishing station. Now you reach Cape 
Eternity, Cape Trinity, and many other 
overhanging cliffs, remarkable for having 
such clean fractures, seldom equalled for 
boldness and effect, which create constant 
apprehensions of danger, even in a calm ; 
but if you happen to be caught in a thun- 
der-storm, the roar, and darkness, and 
flashes of lightning are perfectly frightful. 
At last you terminate your voyage at 
Ha-ha Bay — that is, Smiling or Laughing 
Bay, in the Indian tongue — for you are 
perfectly charmed and relieved to arrive 
at a beautiful spot, where you have 
sloping banks, a pebbly shore, boats and 
wherries, and vessels riding at anchor; 
birds and animals, a village, a church, 
French Canadians, and Scottish Highland- 
ers." After duly enjoying the pleasant 
"let down" from the high tragic tone of 
the landscape you have been so long 
gazing upon and wondering at, formed in 
the comparatively pastoral character of 
this upper region of the Ottawa, you re- 
turn to your steamer, and, descending the 
stern and solemn river, come again, at 
nightfall, to the Kiviere du Loup, from 
whence you started in the morning. This 
is the second day of your journey, and on 
the third you are l)ack once more in 
Quebec. 

After leaving these delightful scenes, 
and returning to Quebec, those who 
choose so to do, can set out for home 
either by rail, via Eichmond, Portland, 
Boston, and New York ; or via Richmond 
by rail to Sherbroke, thence by coaches to 
Magog, connecting with steamer for New- 
port (See Lake Mempheemagog), thence 
by Passumpsic Raihoay to White and 
Franconia Mountams, Boston, or New 
York. 



RODTES.] 



CANADA. 



[Routes. 



But some may prefer still to make the 
deliglitful and invigorating trip down the 
Gulf to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, 
visiting numberless other points of inter- 
est on the way, and returning homeward 
by the International Steamshij) Line to 



Portland or Boston, and thence by rail 
or steamer to New York. The best plan 
is to take cither the steamers to Perce^ 
and coast along as' opportunity offers ; or 
take passage on one of the Gulf steamers 
for Gaspe, Shediac, and Pictou. 
451 



St. Joun River. I 



NEW BRUNSWICK. 



[Fisr'uiEs 



NEW BEU]^SWICK, 



New Brunswick, a Province of Great 
Britain, lies upon tlie eastern boundary 
of the State of Maine. Ttie landscape is 
of great variety and of most picturesque 
beauty; the whole Province (exceptiug 
the dozen miles lying directly on the sea) 
being broken into attractive valleys and 
hiUs, which northward assume a very 
marked and sometimes a very rugged 
aspect. Much of its area of 230 miles in 
length, and 130 in breadth, is covered 
with magnificent forests, which, as in the 
neighboring State of Maine, constitute its 
chief source of industry and wealth. 

The hills are nowhere of a very wonder- 
ful height, but they often rise in precip- 
itous and sharp acclivities, which give 
them an almost Alpine aspect ; all the 
more striking in contrast with the peace- 
ful plains and vales which they protect 
from the tempests of the sea. 

Like the neighboring Province of Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick so abounds in 
lakes and rivers, that ready water access 
may be had, with the help of a short 
portage now and then, over its entire 
area. Thus a canoe may easily be floated 
from the interior to the Bay de Chaleur, 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the ocean 
on the north, or to the St. John River, 
and thence to the Bay of Fundy on the 
south. 

Tlae §t. .Folua H-iver is the 
largest in New Brunswick, and one of the 
most remarkable and beautiful in Amer- 
ica. It rises in the highlands which 
separate Manie from Canada, not very 
far from the sources of the Connecticut. 
For 150 miles it flows in a northeast 
direction, to the junction of the St. 
Francis. From the mouth of the St. 
Francis, the course of the St. John is 
452 



irregularly east-southeast to the Grauc 
Falls ; at which point it makes a desceui 
of from '70 to 80 feet, presenting a splen; 
did picture for the gratification of thd 
tourist. The leap of the Grand Falls i 
passed, the river makes its way almosi 
southward for some distance, after whicl 
it turns abruptly to the eastward, and s( 
continues its way for 100 miles, passing 
Fredericton, to the outlet of the Granc 
Lake, in the southern central part of the 
Province. From Grand Lake its passage 
is in a wide channel, due south to Kings- 
ton, and thence southwest to St. John, 
at its mouth in St. John Harbor, on the> 
Bay of Fundy. 

The entire lengthy of this beautiful 
river is about 600 miles, and from thei 
Grand Falls to the sea, 225 miles, itsi 
course is within the British territory. 
The river and its affluents are thought to 
afford 1,300 miles of navigable waters. 
Very much of the shores of the St. Johnn 
is wild forest-land. In some parts, thei' 
banks rise in grand rocky hills, fcirmingii 
in their lines and interlacings pictures^ 
of wonderful delight. 

The chief tributaries of the St. John, 
besides the St. Francis and other waters- 
already mentioned, are the Aroostook, thelij 
Oromocto, and the Eel, on the west ; andil 
the Salmon, the Nashwaak, the Tobic(ue,/i 
the Kennebecasis, and the Washedemoak,y 
on the east. ' ]'. 

The coast, and bays, and lakes, anmj 
rivers of New Brunswick abound witffi 
fish of almost every variety and in im-i 
mense suppUes. The fisheries of the Bay^^j 
of Fundy are of great value, and employ >; 
vast numbers of the population. In the 
harbor of St. John alone there have been, 
at one time, 200 boats with 500 men^ 



Si'. John.] 



NEW BRUNSWIGK. 



[Fredericton. 



i 



taking salmon, shad, and other fish. 
Nearly 600 fishermen have been seen 
at one period at the Island of Grand 
Manan ; while at the West Isles, about 
700 men have been thus employed at 
one moment ; and so on at many of the 
other countless fishing grounds and sta- 
tions of the New Brunswick and the 
Nova Scotia coasts. 

The climate here is healthful, but sub- 
ject to great extremes of heat and cold,; 
the mercury rising sometimes to 100° in 
the day-time, and faUing to 60° at night. 
Internal Communication. — Besides the 
steamers and stages which connect the 
various towns and cities of New Bruns- 
wick and Nova Scotia, lines of railway 
are in active progress, which will unite 
the two Provinces, and both to the Cana- 
das and the States. A portion of the 
European and North American Railway 
was opened (August 1, 1860) from St. 
John to Shediac, 106 miles ; from whence 
steamers connect with Charlottetown, P. 
E. Island ; Pictou, N. S. ; the northern 
poris of New Brunswick, and Quebec. 
This line opens up new and pleasant 
groimd to the tourist. Another road is 
to extend from St. Andrews to Wood- 
stock, and thence to Quebec. The mag- 
netic telegraph already connects New 
Brunswiclc, Nova Scotia, and Prince 
Edward's Island with the States. The 
connection between Nova Scotia and 
Prince Edward's Island is by a subma- 
rine cable, nine miles from Cape Tormen- 
tine to Cape Traverse. 

St. JoIi.It. — Hotel, Waverley 
Hoitse. 

RoDTES. — From Boston, Mass., every 
Monday and Thursday, at 9 a. m., by 
steamer. From Halifax, via W^indsor, 
N. S., 45 miles by rail, and thence by 
steamer, 110 miles, to St. John. 

St. John, at the mouth of the St. John 
River, is the principal city of New Bruns- 
>vick, with a population of over 30,000. 
It is superbly situated upon a bold, rocky 
jpeninsula, and is seen very imposingly 
from the sea. The scenery of the St. 
'John River is very striking, in the pas- 
|sage immediately preceding its entrance 
>into the harbor, and a mile and a half 



above the city. It makes its impetuous 
way here in a chain of grand rapids, 
through rugged gaps, 240 feet wide and 
1,200 feet long. The passage is navi- 
gable only during the very brief time of 
high and equal tides in the harbor and 
the river ; for at low water the river is 
about 12 feet higher than the harbor, 
while at high water the harbor is five feet 
above the river. It is thus only, when 
the waters of the harbor and of the river 
are on a level, that vessels can pass ; and 
this occurs only during a space of from 
fifteen to twenty minutes, at each ebb 
and flow of the tide. Immense quantities 
of timber are rafted down from the forests 
of the river above to St. John. It is the 
entrepot also of the agricultural and min- 
eral products of a wide region of country. 

S'l-ed.erictoii. — Hotel, Barker 
House. 

Routes. — From Boston, via St. John. 

Fredericton, the capital of New Bruns- 
wick, stands upon a flat tongue of land, 
in a bend of the St. John River, 80 miles 
from its mouth. This sandy plain is 
about three miles long, sometimes reach- 
ing a breadth of half a mile. The river, 
which is navigable up to this point, is 
here three-quarters of a mile wide. Small 
steamers ascend 60 miles yet above to 
Woodstock, and sometimes to the foot 
of the Great Falls. 

The view, both up and down the 
valley, is most interesting — to the north 
an uncleared range of highlands, with 
detached cones and broken hills thrown 
out in bold relief upon the landscape. 
Villas enclosed in the woods, and farms 
upon the clearings, are the chief objects 
it presents ; while to the south the river 
is seen winding, like a silver cord, through 
the dark woodlands, until it disappears 
among the islands in the distance. 

St. AndreTVS, with a population 
of about 8,000, is at the northeast ex- 
tremity of Passamaquoddy Bay, three 
miles from the shores of the United 
States, near Eastport, in Maine, and 60 
mile? from St. John. A railway will 
connect St. Andrews with Woodstock, 80 
miles distant, and wiU be continued to 
Canada. 

453 



Nova Scotia.] 



NOVA SCOTIA. 



[Rivers and Lake.=! 



KOYA SCOTIA. 



NoTA Scotia, the ancient Acadia, in- 
cluding the Island of Cape Breton and 
Sable Island, lies southeast of New Bruns- 
w'vik, from which it is separated by the 
Bay of Fundy, except only at the narrow 
isthmus of Chignecto. ' It may be reached 
at Halifax, its capital, by the British 
steamers from New York and Boston. 
The railways now in progress within its 
limits will soon more conveniently unite 
it with the cities of the Canadas and the 
United States. The area of the Province 
is 18,746 square miles, including the 
3,000 of Cape Breton, and the 69 of 
Sable Island. The southern shores are 
often very rugged. The interior is di- 
versified with hills and valleys, though not 
of very bold character, as the highest 
land is but 1,200 feet above the sea. 
The numerous lakes cover much of the 
southern part of the Province. The agri- 
cultural capabilities vary much for the 
area of the country. On the Atlantic 
coast much of the soil is rocky and 
barren. The richest soils are in that 
section of the country bordering upon 
the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence, and the streams emptying into 
them ; and, generally speaking, this is 
the most thickly-settled region. Nova 
Scotia has become so much denuded of 
its valuable timber, that its lumber trade 
is now neither very large nor productive, 
compared with that of Nevi^ Brunswick or 
Canada. Farming, however, especially in 
the finer agricultural districts just named, 
is extensively carried on, and is very re- 
munerative. 

The extensive mineral deposits of coal, 

iron, and copper, have become,- of late 

years, an object of great and constantly 

increasing attention to the inhabitants; 

454 



the gypsum, grindstones, and buildingn 
stone of various kinds, have long been im-i 
portant articles of export. Upon thel 
Atlantic co.ast, too, many people are oc-i 
cupied in the extensive fishing trade,' 
which has been prosecuted here more 
actively than upon any of the British-1 
American shores, excepting only that of > 
Newfoundland. 

The Coast of Nova Scotia. — Thei: 
greatest length of Nova Scotia is 356'i 
miles, and the greatest breadth 120 miles,' 
The southeast coast, in a distance of IIC' 
miles only from Cape Canso to Halifaxr 
has no less than 12 ports capaciouji 
enough to receive ships-of-the-line, anC' 
14 deep enough for merchantmen. A 
belt of rugged broken land, of which thd 
greatest height is 500 feet, formed ofi 
granite and primary rock, extends alonji 
all the Atlantic shore, from Cape CaDS( 
to Cape Sable. This belt varies inbi'eadtli 
from 10 to 50 miles, and covers abou^^ 
one-third of the whole Province. Fronn 
Briar's Island, off Digby Neck, 130 milel^ 
to Capes Split and Blomidon, along thd 
northern coast on the Bay of Fundy, then 
is a ridge of wooded frowning precipice; 
of trap rock, which overhang the wave; 
at an elevation of from 100 to 600 feet 
These magnificent cliSs are picturesqin 
and grand in the extreme. They are, to^ 
(which is something in this utilitariai 
age), not only ornamental, but useful, fo 
they serve to protect the interior tron 
the terrible fogs of the bay. 

The Rivers, Lakes, and Bats oi 
Nova Scotia. — The lakes here, thougl 
generally small, are almost countless ii 
number, coverLag the southern portion 
of the peninsula as with a network oi 
smiling waters. In some instances, m 



Halifax.] 



NOVA SCOTIA. 



[Halifax. 



less than 1 00 are grouped within a space 
of 20 square milfts. Lake Rossignol, the 
largest of the region, is 30 miles long. 
It is near the western end of the penin- 
sula. Grand Lake comes next, then Col- 
lege Lake eastward. Minas Bay, on the 
north coast, the eastern arm of the Bay 
of Fundy, penetrating 60 miles inland, is 
very remarkable for the tremendous tides 
which rush in here, sometimes to the 
height of 60 to 70 feet, while they do not 
reach more than from 6 to 9 feet in the 
harbor of Halifax, directly opposite ; 
these are the spring-tides. They form 
what is called the bore. The Bays of St. 
Mary's, the Gut of Canso, Townsend Bay, 
George Bay, and Chedabucto Bay, in the 
eastern part of the Province, and St. Mar- 
garet's and Mahone Bays, on the south, 
are all large and most interesting waters. 

The Annapolis River flows into the 
Bay of Fundy, 100 miles from the Gar- 
den of Acadia. Besides this principal 
river there are many others navigable for 
a greater or less distance from their 
mouths, as the Shubenacadie, which, by 
the help of a canal, connects Cobequid 
Bay, from the Bay of Fundy on the north 
side of the peninsula, with Halifax Har- 
bor on the south ; the Tusket and the 
Clyde in the southwest extremity of the 
Province, the Mersey, the Musquodobolt, 
and the St. Mary's. Indeed, rivers pour 
their waters into all the many bays and 
harbors which so thickly stud the whole 
line of these remarkable coasts. 

Maliiax. — Hotels, Waverley, Sleui- 
arfs, and Halifax Hotel. 

Routes. — From New York direct, by 
the British mail steamers. From St. 
John, N. B., by steamer, 110 miles, to 
Windsor, thence by rail, 45 miles, to 
HaUfax. 

Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is 
upon the south coast of the peninsula, on 
the declivity of a hill, about 250 feethigh, 
rising fcom one of the finest harbors on 
the continent. The streets are generally 
broad, and for the most part macada- 
mized. Viewed from the water, or from 
the opposite shore, the city is prepossess- 
ing and animated. In front, the town 
is lined with wharves, which, from the 
number of vessels constantly loading and 
discharging, always exhibit a spectacle 
of great commercial activity. Warehouses 



rise over the wharves, or tower aloft in 
different parts of the town, and dwelhng- 
houses and public buildings rear their 
heads over each other, as they stretch 
along and up the sides of the hill. The 
spires of the different churches, the build- 
ing above the town in which the town- 
clock is fixed, a rotunda-built church, 
the signal-posts on Citadel Hill, the differ- 
ent batteries, the variety of style in which 
the houses are built (some of which are 
painted white, some blue, and some red) ; 
rows of trees showing themselves in dif- 
ferent parts of the town ; the ships moored 
opposite the dockyard, with the establish- 
ments and tall shears of the latter ; the 
merchant vessels under sail, at anchor, or 
along the wharves ; the wooded and rocky 
scenery of the background, with the 
islands and the small town of Dartmouth 
on the east shore — are all objects most 
agreeable to see. 

Of the public buildings, the chief is a 
handsome edifice of stone, called the 
Province Building, 140 feet long by TO 
broad, and ornamented with a colonnade 
of the Ionic order. It comprises suitable 
chambers for the accommodation of the 
Council and Legislative Assembly, and 
also for various Government offices. The 
Government House, in the southern part 
of the town, is a solid but gloomy-looking 
structure, near which is the residence of 
the military commandant. The admiral's 
residence, on the north side of the town, 
is a plain building of stone. The north 
and south barracks are capable of accom- 
modating three regiments. The Welling- 
ton Barracks (in the northern part of the 
town), which comprises two long ranges 
of substantial stone and brick buildings, 
is the most extensive and costly establish- 
ment of the kind in North America. 
There is also a Military Hospital, erected 
by the late Duke of Kent. Dalhousie 
College is a handsome edifice of freestone. 
Among the churches of various denomi- 
nations are several of the English estab- 
lishment, and of the Presbyterian order, 
and two of the Roman Catholic faith. 
.The Court-House is a spacious freestcne 
structure, in the southern part of the 
town. In the suburbs is a new Hospital. 
The banking establishments are four in 
number. The hotels and boarding-houses 
are not of the highest order. The in- 
455 



Halifax.] 



NOVA SCOTIA. 



[Haluax. 



habitants of Halifax are intelligent and 
social, and travellers will remark a tone 
of society here more decidedly Enf:;lisli 
than in most of the other colonial cities. 
The harbor opposite the town is more 
than a mile wide, and has, at medium 
tides, a depth of 12 fathoms. About a 
mile above the upper end of the town it 
narrows to one-fourth of a mile, and then 
expands into Bedford Basin, which has a 
surface of ten square miles, and is com- 
pletely land-locked. On an island oppo- 
site the town are some strong mounted 
batteries. The harbor is also defended 
by some other minor fortifications. The 
Citadel occupies the summit of the heights 
commanding the town, and is a mile in 
circumference. It is a costly work, and, 
after that of Quebec, is the strongest 
fortress in the British North American 
colonies. 

436 



Halifax, ever since its settlement in 
1Y49, has been the scat of a profitable 
fishery. Its trade, which is in a very 
prosperous condition, is principally with 
the West Indies and other British colo- 
nies, Avith the United States, and the 
mother country. It is also the cliief 
rendezvous and naval depot for the British i 
navy on the North American station. 
The British Government having madi> 
Halifax one of the stopping-places of the 
Cunard line of steamers, in their trips 
either way across the Atlantic, has added i 
greatly to its importance as a maritime. 
city, as well as advanced its commercial I 
prosperity. 

From Halifax the traveller can return 
to New York by rail to Windsor, and > 
thence by International Steamship Line 
to Portland or Boston, thence by rail or ; 
steamer to New York. 



f 



lE^DEX. 



[The names of hotels will he found in italics in connection with the respective cities and 
Itowns throughout the work]. 



lAherdeen, Miss., 338. 
iAcapulco, Mex., 239. 
Across the Continent, 287. 
lA;:lams, Mass., 74. 
{Adirondack Mountains, N. Y., 64. 
'Admiralty Inlet, W. T., 269. 
Adrian, Mich., 229. 
Alabama, State of, 381. 
The hill region, 385. 
^Mahama River, 381. 
Albany, N.Y., 4.3. 
Albany, Ga.. 369. 
Albion, N. Y., 58. 
Albuquerque, N. M., 274. 
f^lexandria, Va., 323. 
\ll3ntown. Pa., 166. 
Mmaden Mines, CaL, 259. 
(Almanac, The Travellers', 468. 
Mtamont, Md., 307. 
ilthouse, CaL, 248. 
^ton. 111., 195. 

"toona, Pa., 158.' 
herst, Mass., i)9. 

micalolah Falls, Ga., 372. 

mmonoosuc River, N. H., 113. 

ndover, Mass., 95. 

ndroscoggin River, Me., 123. 

ndroscoggiu Lake, Me., 124. 

nnapolis, Md., 310. 
>.nnapolis River, N. S.,455. 
i.nn Arbor, Mich., 228. 
Inoka, Miun., 216. 
uitietam, Md., 304. 
ippalachicola. Fla,, 379. 

pplcton, Wis., 223. 
irizona. Territory of, 271. 
^.rkansas. State of, 407. 
Arkansas River, 407. 

rkansas Post, Ark., 408. 
Lrlington, D. C, 323. 
.shland, Ky., 418. 

spinwall, Isthmus of Panama, 237. 

storia, L. I., 29. 
Istoria, Oregon, 267. 

tchison, Kan., 232. 

thens, N. Y., 43. 

thens, Ga., 367. 

tianta, Ga., 367. 

tlantic City, N. J., 130. 

uburn, N. Y., 57. 

uburn, Cal., 249. 

ugusta, Me., 123. 

ugusta, Ga., 367. 

urora, 111., 197. 

arora, Nev., 276. 

20 



Ausahle Falls, N. Y., 51. 
Austin, Texas, 405. 
Austin, Nevada, 276. 
Avon Springs, N. Y., 69. 



Ballston Springs, N. Y., 46. 
Baltimore, 293. 

Map of, 292. 

Vicinity, 298. 
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Md., 301. 

Route to Washington, 302. 

Route to Philadelphia, 292 
Bangor, Me., 123. 
Bannack, Montana Territory, 283. 
Barbacoas, 237. 
Barrington, Conn., 74. 
Bastrop, Texas, 406. 
Batesville, Ai-k., 408. 
Bath, Me., 122. 
Baton Rouge, La., 401. 
Bay of San Pablo, Cal., 233. 
Bay of Suisun, Cal., 244. 
Beaufort, N. C, 346. 
Beaufort, S. C, 355. 
Bedford Springs, Pa., 171. 
Belfast, Me., 123. 
BeUaire, O., 179. 
Belle Plaiue, Minn., 217. 
Bellows Palls, Vt., 104. 
Beloit, Wis., 223. 
Benicia, Cal., 244. 
Bennington, Vt., 116. 
Bergen, N. J., 130. 
Berkeley Springs, Md., 305. 
Bethlehem, Pa., 166. 
Beverly, Mass., 95. 
Beverly, on the Delaware, 139. 
Biddeford, Me., 121. 
Binghamton, N. Y., 54. 
Black Hawk, Col.. 285. 
Black Mountain, N. C, 347. 
Black Warrior River, Ala., 382. 
Blackwell's Island, N. Y. harbor, 29. 
Bloomingdale, N. Y., 32. 
Bloomiugton, 111., 197. 
Bloomsbury, N. J., 131. 
Blowing Cave, Va., 342. 
Blue Lick Springs, Ky., 421. 
Blue Mounds, Wis., 220. 
Boise City, Idaho Ter., 280. 
Boi'dentown, N. J., 129. . 
Boston and Vicinity, 81. 

Map of, 81. 

East Boston, 83. 

457 



INDEX. 



South Boston, 83. 

Mount Auburn, 88. 

Routes from New York to, 81. 
Bradford, Mass., 96. 
Bradford, Vt., 105. 
Braintree, Mass., 91. 
Brandon, Vt., 116. 
Brattleboro, Vt., 103. 
Brazos Kiver, Texas, 404. 
Bridgeport, Conn., 71. 
Bridgewater, Mass., 91. 
Brighton, Mass., 90, 93. 
Bristol, Pa., 129. 
British Provinces, the, 435. 
Brocliport, N. Y., 88. 
Brocliville, C. W., 443. 
Broolilyn, N. Y., a4. 

Prospect Parli, 25. 

Greenwood, 25. 

Ferries from New York to, 27. 

U. S. Navy Yard, 26. 
Brownsvilie, Neb., 234. 
Brown University, Providence, E. I., 77. 
Brownsville, Texas, 406. 
Brunswick, Me., 122. 
Bnishville, L. I., 30. 
Budd's Lake, N. J., 132. 
Buftalo, N. Y., 58. 
Bull's Ferry, Hudson River, 32. 
Bunker Hill, Charlestown, 96. 
Burkesville, Va., 3.33. 
Burlington, Vt., 50, 115. 
Burlington, N. J., 129. 
Burlington, Iowa, 207. 



Cairo, 111., 198. 

Calais, Me., 124. 

Caldwell's Landing, N. Y., 36. 

Caledonia Springs, Canada, 436. 

California, History and Topography, 235. 

Cambridge, Mass., 92. 

Camden and Amboy Railway, 129. 

Camden, N. J., 129. 

Camden, S. C, 354. 

Camden, Ark., 408. 

Camel's Hump Mountain, Vt., 115. 

Campton and West Campton, N. H., 107. 

Canada — Its Geography and Area; Discovery, 
Settlement, and Rulers ; Government • 
Religion ; Landscape ; Mountains ; and 
Rivers, 435. 

Canandaigua Lake, N. Y., 5. 

Canandaigua, N. Y. Central Railway, 52. 

Cannon Falls, Minn., 218. 

Cafion City, Col., 285. 

Canterbury, N. Y., 39. 

Canton, Miss., 388. 

Cape Cod and the Sea Islands, 91. 

Cape Elizabeth, Me., 121. 

Cape Girardeau, Mo., 204. 

Cape May, N. J., 131. 

Cape Maysi, Cuba, 237. 

Cape St. Lucas, Cal., 239. 

Carlisle, Pa., 1G8. 

Carondelet, Mo., 205. 

Carquinez, Straits of, Cal., 244. 

Carrollton Viaduct, Md., 301. 

Carson City, Nevada, 296. 

Carson Valley, 250. 

Carver, Minn., 216. 

Cascade Range, Or., 266. 

Cascade Bridge, N. Y. & Erie E. E., 54. 

Catalamet, Wash. Ter., 269. 
458 



Catawissa, Pa., 162. 
Catskill Village, 40. 
Catskill Mountains (the). Routes thither, 40. 

The High Falls, 41. 

The High Peak, 42. 

The Mountain House, 42. £1 

The PlauterkiU Clove, 42. 1 

The Stony Glove, 41. " 

The Two Lakes, 41. 
Gaudy's Castle, Va., 343. ' 
Gaughnawaga, Canada, 446. 
Cayuga, N. Y. Central Railway, 57. 
Cayuga Lake, N. Y., 57. 
Cedar City, Utah, 279. 
Cedar River, Iowa, 206. 
Cedar Falls, Iowa, 208. 
Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 208. 
Cedarmere, L. I., 30. 
Centre Harbor, N. H., 106. 
Central City, Col., 285. 
Ghambersburg, Pa., 169. 
Charleston, S. G., 350. 

Map of, 350. 
Charlestown, Mass., 96. 
Charlestovra, N. H., 104. 
Charlestown, Del., 135. 
Charlotte, N. C, 346. 
Charlotte, N. Y., 443. 
Charlottesville, Va., 334. 
Chaska, Minn., 216, 
Chattahoochee River, Ga., 363. 
Chattanooga, Tenn., 409. 
Chaudiere Falls, Canada, 448. 
Cheat River, Md., 307. 
Chelsea, Mass., 94. 
Chelsea Beach, Mass., 90. 
Cheraw, S. G., 355. 
Cherry Valley, N. Y., 69. 
Chesapeake Bay, Md., 299. 
Chester, Del., 134. 
Chicago, m., 188. 

Map of, 188. 
Ghicopee, Mass., 97. 
Ghillicothe, O., 180. 
Chippewa, N. Y., 61. 
Chisago Lake, Minn., 218. 
Ghryseler's Fann, Canada, 441. 
Cincinnati, O., 173. 

Map of, 173. 
City Point, Va., 331. 
Claremont, N. H., 104. 
Clarendon Springs, Vt., 116. 
Clarksville, Ga., 370. 
Cleveland, O., 179. 
Cobui-g, Canada, 443. 
Cohassett, Mass., 91. 
Cold Spring, N. Y.. 38. 
Colorado Territoi-y', 284. 
Colorado City, Col., 285. 
Colorado River, Texas, 404. 
Columbia Springs, N. Y., 43, 69. 
Columbia, Pa., 168. 
Columbia, S. C, 354. 
Columbia, Tenn., 413. 
Columbia, Mo., 204. 
Columbia, Cal., 256. 
Columbia River, Dr., 265. 
Columbus, Ga., 369. 
Columbus, Miss., .388. 
Columbus, O., 178. 
Columbus, Neb., 234. 
Coney Island, N. Y. Harbor, 29. 
Concord, Mass., 96. 
Concord, N. H., 103. 



INDEX. 



Connecticut River, etc., 96. 
Connecticut, State of, 70. 
Conway Valley, N. H., 106. 
Cooperstown, N. Y., 69. 
Cooper's Well, Miss., 98. 
Cornwall Landing, N. Y., 39. 
Corniner, IST. Y;, Ki. 
Cornwall, C. W., «1. 
Corry, Pa., 162, 105. 
Coulterville, Cal., 257. 
Covington, Ky., 417. 
Cowpens, battle of, S. C, 349. 
Cossackie, N. Y., 43. 
Cozzens, N. Y., 37. 
Crampton's Gap, Md., 303. 
Cranberry Summit, Md., 307. 
Crescent City, Cal., 263. 
Crcsson Springs, Pa., 171. 
Croton Falls, N. Y., 45. 
Croton Point, N. Y., 35. 
Cro' Nest, N. Y., 38. 
Crow Wing, Minn., 216. 
Culabra, Isthmus of Panama, 238. 
Cumberland, Md., 300'. 
Cumberland Gap, Ky., 423. 
Cumberland River, Ky., 415. 
Currahee Mountain, Ga., 370. 
Cynthiana, Ky., 417. 

Dacotah Territory, 286. 

Dahlonega, Ga., 372. 

Dalles City, Oregon, 267. 

Dalton, Ga., 368. 

Dan's Mountain, Md., 306. 

Danville, Va., 333. 

Dartmouth College, Hanover, N. H., 105. 

Davenport, Iowa, 207. 

Dayton, Nevada, 276. 

Dayton, O., 177. 

Decatur, Ga., 368. 

Decatur, 111., 198. 

Decatur, Nebraska, 234. 

Deerfield Mountain, Mass., 99. 

Delaware, State of, 133. 

Delaware River, 139. 

Delaware Water Gap, Pa., 109. 

Denver, Col., 284. 

DePere,'Wis., 223. 

Des Moines River, Iowa, 207. 

Des Moines, la., 208. 

Des Plaines River, 111., 187. 

Detroit, Mich., 227. 

Devil's Pulpit, Ky., 421. 

Diamond Cave, Ky., 421. 

Dickenson Lauding, C. W., 411. 

District of Columbia, 311. 

Dixon, 111., 197. 

Dobb's Ferry, Hudson River, 34. 

Doe Gully, Md., 305. 

Doniphan, Kansas, 232. 

Dover, N. J., 131. 

Dover, Del., 136. 

Dover Plains, Harlem Railway, 45. 

Downington, Pa., 156. 

Dowuieville, Cal., 248. 

Drennon Springs, Ky., 422. 

Dubuque, Iowa, 207. 

Duucaiinon, Pa., 150. 

Dunkirk, N. Y. and Erie R. R., 56. 

IKiL -1 Flat, Cal., 349. 

East Cambridge, Mass., 92. 

Eastern Shore of Maryland and Vii:giuia, 299. 



Eastport, Me., 123. 
Eastatoia Falls, Ga., 371. 
Eastern Railway, Mass., 94. 
Easthampton, Mass., 97. 
Baston, Pa., 166. 
Eatonton, Ga., 369. 
Echo Lake, N. H., 110. 
Edgefield, Tenn., 411. 
Elizabeth, N. J., 127. 
Elkton, Del., 135. 
Ellicott's Mills, Md., 302. 
Elmira, N. Y., 55. 
Empire City, Col., 285. 
Enfield, Conn., 73. 
Enterprise, Fla., 377. 
Ephrata Springs, Pa., 156. 
Epsom Salts Cave, Ind., 183. 
Erie, Pa., 163. 
Escanaba, Wis., 223. 
Evanston, 111., 197. 
Evansville, Ind., 185. 
Eutaw Springs, S. C, 355. 

Fallen Leaf Lake, CaL, 251. 
Pall City, Neb., 234. 
Fall River, Mass., 92. 
Fall River Route— N. Y. to Boston, 81. 
Falls Village, Conn., 73. 
Falls of the Passaic, N. J., 131. 
Falls of the Sawkill, N. Y., 53. 
Falls of St. Anthony, Minn., 213. 
FaUs of St. Anm3, C. E., 448. 
FaUs of the St. Louis, MLun., 215. 
Falmouth, Ky., 417. 
Faribault, Minn., 217. ' 
Farmiugton, Md., 308. 
FayettevUle, N. C 346. 
Fernandiua, Fla., .378. 
Petterman, Md., 308. 
Fillmore City, Utah, 379. 
Fishkill, N. Y., 39. 
Fitchburg, Mass., 96. 
Flatbush, L. I., 29. 
Flatlands, L. I., 29. 
Flint River, Ga., 363. 
Florence, Ala., 385. 
Florida, State of, 375. 
Flushing, L. I., 31. 
Folsom, Cal., 349. 
Fond du Lac, Wis., 323. 
Fontenelle, Neb., 234. 
Fort Atkinson, Wis., 224. 
Fort Des Moines, Iowa, 208. 
Fort Hamilton, N. Y., 28. 
Fort Hill, Md., 306. 
FortHUl, S. C.,.361. 
Fort Hope, C. W., 44.3. 
Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, 232. 
FortLee, N. Y.,33. 
Fort Madison, Iowa, 208. 
Fort McAllister, Ga., 366. 
Fort McHenry, Md., 297. 
Fort Moultrie, S. C, 351. 
Fort Plain, N. Y., 56. 
Fort Pulaski, Ga., 366. 
Fort Riley, Kansas, 232. 
Fort Smith, Ai-kansas, 408. 
Fort Scott, Kansas, 232. 
Fort Snelling, Minn., 214. 
Fort Sumter, S. C, 351. 
Fort Tejon, Cal., 260. 
Fort Ticouderoga, N. Y., 48. 
Fort Valley, Ga., ,369. 
Fort Vancouver, Washington, 269. 
459 



INDEX. 



Fort Washineiton, N.Y., 33. 
Fort Wayne, Ind., 184. 
Fortification Kock, Wis., S20. 
Fortress Monroe, Va., 330. 
Fountain Cave, Minn., 213. 
Fox Kiver, 111., 188. 
Fox and Pliillips Springs, Ky., 423. 
Framingham, Mass., 93. 
Francouia Hills, N. H., 109. 
Franlvfort, Ky., 413. 
Franklin, Pa., 104. 
Franklin, Md., 297. 
Frcdericton, N. B., 453. 
Frederick, Md., 302. 
Fredcricksburs;, Va., 233. 
Freeport, 111., 197. 
Fremont, Neb., 234. 
French Broad River, N. C, 347. 
Freucli Creek, C. W., 443. 



Gadsby's Enn, Md.,301. 

Galena, Bl., 197. 

Galesburg, 111., 197. 

Galveston, Texas, 404. 

Gananoque, C. W., 443. 

Gardiner, Me., 122. 

Gasconade, Mo., 201. 

Gates of the Rocky Mountains, Mo. River. 

Gatuu Station, Isthmus of Panama, 237. 

Genesee Falls, N. Y., 57. 

Geneva, N. Y., 57. 

Genoa, Nev., 376. 

Georgetown, Mass., 96. 

Georgeto-sTO, D. C, 321. 

Georgetown, S. C, 358. 

Georgeville, C. B., 118. 

Georgia, State of, 362. i 

Railways, 363. 

Rivers, 362. 

Mountain region of, 370. 
Gettysburg, Pa., 169. 
Geyser Springs, Cal., 255. 
Ginger Cake Rock, N. C, 347. 
Glen Cove, L. I., 31. 
Glenns Falls, N. Y., 47. 
Golden City, Cal., 285. 
Gordonsville, Va., 334. 
Gorham, N. H., 108. 
Grafton, Mass., 93. 
Grafton, Md., 308. 
Grand Haven, Mich., 228. 
Grand Prairie, El,, 186. 
Grand Rapids, Mich., 229. 
Grand Tnink Railway, Canada, 436. 
Grass Valley, Cal., 249. 
Gravesend, L. I., 29. 
Great Barrington, Mass., 74. 
Great Bend of Connecticut River, Mass., 09. 
Great Falls of the Missouri, 200. 
Great Salt Lake City, Utah, 278. 
Great Salt Lake, Utah, 277. 
Great Sioux River, Iowa, 206. 
Green Bay, Wis., 223. 
Green Bush, N. Y., 44. 
Greenfield, Mass., 99. 
Green Island, Wis., 225. 
Green Lake, Minn., 218. 
Green River, Ky., 415. 
Greensburg, Pa., 159. 
Greenville, S. C, 359. 
Greenwood Lake, N. Y., 132. 
Greenwood Cemetery, N. Y., 25. 
Grenada, Miss., 387. 
460 



Grinnell, Iowa, 209. 

Groton, Mass., 96. 

Gwynn's Falls, Bait, and O. E. E., 801, 



Hackensack, N. J., 131. 

Hackettstown, N. J., 131. 

Hadley, Mass., 98. 

Hagerstown, Md., .309. 

Halifax, N. S., 455. 

Hallowell, Me., 123. 

Hamilton, O., 177. 

Hamilton, C. W., 443. 

Hampton, N. H., 103. 

Hancock, N. Y. and Erie R. R., 54. 

Hancock, Md., 305. 

Hanging Rocks, Va., 343. 

Hanover, N. H., 105. 

Hanover Court-House, Va., 334. 

Hannibal, Mo., 204. 

Harlem Railway, N. Y., 45. 

Harrison Square, Mass., 91. 

Harrodsburg, Ky., 421. 

Harrodsburg Springs, Ky., 419. 

Harper's Ferry, Va., 335. 

Harrisbirrg, Pa., 163. 

Hartford, Conn., 72. 

Hartland, N. H., 105. 

Harvard University, Cambridge, 87. 

Hastings, N. Y., 34. 

Hastings, Minn., 217. ' 

Hatfield, Mass., 99. 

Haverhill, Mass., 96. i 

Haverstraw, on the Hudson, 36. 3 

Havre-de-Grace, Md., 136. | 

Hawk's Bill, N. C, 347. ? 

Hawk's Nest, Va., 343. '; 

Healdsburg, Cal., 252. :: 

Helena, Montana Ter., 283. 

Hellertown, Pa., 165. 

Hempstead Village, L. I., 30. 

Hermitage, Home of Gen. Jackson, 411. 

Hiawassee FaUs, Ga., 372. 

Hibernia, Fla.. 376. 

Highlands of the Hudson, 37. 

Hingham, Mass.. 91. 

Hoboken, N. J., 28. 

Holly Springs, Miss., 388. , 

Holyoke, Mass., 97. 

Hornellsville, N. Y. and Erie R. R., 55. 

Hot Springs, Ark., 408. 

Hot Springs, Nev., 376. 

Housatonic River, Valley, and Railway, 73. 

Houston, Texas, 405. 

Hudson River, Description of, 33. 

Hudson River Railway, 31. y 

Hudson, N. Y., 42. ■. 

Humboldt, Nov., 276. 

Huntingdon, Pa., 158. 

Huntsville, Ala., 385. 

Hyde Park, on the Hudson, 40. 

Hyde Park, L. L, 30. ' 



Ice Mountain, Va., 343. 

Idaho Territory, 280. 

Idaho Ciry, I. T., 281. 

"Idlewild," on the Hudson, 39. 

Illinois, State of, 180. 

Illinois River, 187. 

Indian Springs, Ga., 373. 

Indiana, State of, 180. 

Indianapolis, Ind., 181. 

Introduction, Advice to Travellers, etc., 1. 



INDEX. 



Iowa City, 308. 

Iowa River, 206. 

Iowa, State of, 20G. 

Ipswich, Mass., 95. 

Iron Moimtaiu, Mo., 199. 

Irvineton, Pa., 162. 

Irvington and " Sunnyside," on the Hudson, 

34. 
Island Pond, Vt., 103. 
Isle of Shoals, Portsmouth, l^f. H., 91, 103. 
Islip, L. I., 31. 



Jackson, Miss., 387. 
Jackson, Mich., 239. 
Jackson, Teun., 413. 
Jacksonville, Fla., 3T6. 
Jacksonville, 111., 198. 
Jacksonville, Cal., 248. 
Jamaica, L. I., 30. 
Jamesburg, N. J., 129. 
Jamestown, Va., 331. 
Janesville, Wis., 223. 
Jefferson City, Mo., 204. 
Jeffersonville, Ind., 184. 
Jersey City, N". J., 127. 
Jocassee Valley, S. C, 360. 
Johnstown, Pa., 128. 
Joliet, HI., 196. 
Juniata River, Pa., 139. 



Kaatskill, N. T., 40. 

Kalamazoo, Mich., 239. 

Kansas— Character and Settlement, 230. 

Routes thither, 331. 
Kansas City, Kan., 333. 
Kansas River, 301. 
Katahdin Mount., Me., 134. 
Kankakee River, 111., 188. 
Kaukauna, Wis., 323. 
Kearneysville, Md., 304. 
Kearney City, Neb., 334. 
Keene, N. H., 104. 
Keeseville, N. Y., 66. 
KeUy's Rock, Md., 306. 
Kenosha. Wis., 332. 
Kennebec River, Me., 135. 
Kensington, Pa., 139. 
Kentucky, State of, 414. 

Railways, 415. 

Rivers, 415. 

Sink-Holes, 423. 

Springs, 433. 
Kentucky River, 415. 
Keokuk, Iowa, 308. 
Keowee River, S. C, 360. 
Key West, Fla., 379. 
Killington Peak, Vt., 116. 
Kiuderhook. on the Hudson, 43. 
Kingston, Canada, 443. 
Kingston, on the Hudson, 40. 
King's Bridge, N. Y., 33. 
King's Mountain, Battle-field, S. C, 301. 
Kingwood Tunnel, B. and O. R. R., 308. 
Kittery, Me., 133. 
Knob Lick, Ky., 421. 
Knobly Mountain, Md., 306. 
Knoxville, Tenn., 413. 



Lachine, Canada, 440. 
Lackawanna, Pa., 139. 
Lacka waxen, N. Y., 53. 



La Fayette, Ind., 185, 

Lake Castleton, Vt., 116. 

Lake Champlain, N. Y., 50. 

Lake City, Minn., 217. 

Lake Dunmore, Vt., 116. 

Lake Erie, 444. 

Lake George, N. Y., 48. 

Lake Huron, 4ri4. 

Lake Mahopac, N. Y., 45. 

Lake Memphremagog, Vt., 119. 

Lake Michigan, 188. 

Lake Pepin, Minn., 211. 

Lake Pleasant, N. Y., 65. 

Lake Ontario, 440. 

Lake Region, 444. 

Lake St. Croix, Minn., 215. 

Lake St. Francis, C. E., 440. 

Lake St. Louis, C. E., 440. 

Lake Superior, 445. 

LakeTahoe, Nev., 376. 

Lake Umbagog, Me., 134 

Lake Willoughby, Vt., 117. 

Lake Winnebago, Wis., 219. 

Lake Winnipesaukee, N. H., 108. 

Lancaster, Pa., 156. ^ 

Lansing, Mi(3h., 238. 

La Salle, 111., 196. 

Lauderdale Springs, Miss., 388. 

Lawrence, Mass., 95. 

Lawrence, Kansas, 233. 

Leavenworth City, Kansas, 233. 

Lebanon, Pa., 162. 

Lebanon, Tenn., 413. 

Lebanon Springs, N. Y., 43, 68, 74 

Leeds's Station, Me., 133. 

Lehigh River, 139. 

Lettonian Springs, Ky., 433. 

Lewiston, K. Y., 63. 

Lewiston, Me., 133. , 

Lewiston, Idaho Ter., 381. 

Lewistown, Pa., 158. 

Lexington, Mass., 96. 

Lexington, Va., 333. 

Lexington, Mo., 304 

Lexington, Ky., 417. 

Licking River, Ky., 415. 

Lima, O., 177. 

" Lindonwald," Home of Martin Van Buren^ 

43. 
Little Bay de Noquet, Wis., 335. 
Little Chute, Wis., 323. 
Little Falls, N. Y., 56. 
Little Rock, Ark., 408. 
Little Sturgeon Pt., Wis., 235. 
Littleton Station, B. & O. R. R., 309. 
Little Wabash River, 111., 188. 
Lockhaven, Pa., 163. 
Lockport, N. Y., 58. 
Loudon, C. W., 441. 
Lone INIountain Cemetery, Cal., 241. 
Long Branch, N. J., 130. 
Long Island, N. Y., 39. 
Lookout Mountain, Ga., 373. 
Los Angeles, Cal., 360. 
Louisiana, State of, 389. 
Louisville, Ky., 415. 
Lowell, Mass., 94. 
Lynchburg, Va., 33.3. 
Lynn, Mass., 94 



Mackinac, the Straits of, 444. 
Macon, Ga., 368. 
Madison, Ind.. 184. 



461 



INDEX. 



Madison, Wis., 222. 
Madiaon's Cave, Va^ 342. 
Madison's Springs, Ga., 373. 
Magnolia, Fla., STO. 
MuL'og, C. E., 118. 
Mahopac Lake, N. T., 45. 
Maine, State of, 119. 
Maitland, C. W., 443. 
Mainei, lathmus ot Panama, 237. 
Mammoth Cave. Ky., 419. 
Mammotli Tree Grove, Cal., 254. 
Manchester, N. 11., 103. 
Manhattan, Kansas, a32, 
Mankato, Minn., 217. 
Manniiigton. Md., .308. 
Maiiomin, Minn., 21G. 
Mansfield Mountain, Vt., 115. 
Maquoqueta Kiver, la., 206. 
Mariposa, Cal., 257. 
Marshall Mich., 229. 
Marshfield, Mass., 91. 
Martha's Vineyard, 91. 
Martinsburg, W. V., 304. 
Maryland, State of, 291. 
Marysville, Cal., 244. 
Marysville Buttes, 245. 
Massachusetts, State of, 80. 
Matachin, Isthmus of Panama, 2-38. 
Matagorda, Texas, 406. 
Mauch Chunk, Pa., 166. 
Maumee Elver, Ind., 180. 
Maysvllle, Ky., 419. 
Meadville, Pa., 164. 
Medford, Mass., 94. 
Melrose, Mass., 95. 
Memphremagog Lake, Vt., 117. 
Memphis, Tenn., 412. 
Menasha, "Wis., 223. 
Mendota, Minn., 215. 
Menominee, Wis., 225. 
Meriden, Conn., 72. 
Mesilla, N. M., 274. 
Miami Kiver, O., 17.3. 
Michigan, State of, 220. 
Middleboro, Mass., 91. 
Middleburgh, Fla., 376. 
Middlebury, Vt., 116. 
Middle States, the, 2 
Middletown, Conn., 72. 
Middletown, Pa., 156. 
Milford, Comi., 71. 
Milford, Del., 1.36. 
MilledgeviUe, Ga., 369. 
Milwaukee, Wis., 221. 
Minneapolis, Minn., 214. 
Minnehaha Falls, Minn., 214. 
Minnesota, State of, 210. 
Minnesota Elver, 210. 
Mississippi, State of, 386. 

Elvers, .387. 

Eailways, 387. 
Mississippi Elver, 428. 
Missouri, State of, 199. 
Missouri Kiver, 200. 

Falls of the, 282. 
Mokelumne HiU, Cal., 254. 
Monocacy, Md., .302. 
Monongahela, Pa., 1.39. 
Monroe City, Mich., 228. 
Montana Territory, 282. 
Monterey, Cal., 262. 
Montgomery, Ala., 384. 
Moulicello, Home of Jefferson, 335. 
.Mouticello, Wash. Ter., 2U9. 
4G2 



Montmorenci Falls, Canada, 436. 

Montpelier, Vt., 114. 

Jiontrcal, Canada, 4.37. 

Moosehead Lake, Me., 124. * 

Moosetocknoguntic Lake, Me., 134, 

Morristown, N. ,J., 131. 

Moundsville, Va., 309. 

Mount Ascutney, Vt., 117. 

Mount Auburn Cemetery, 88. 

Mount Desert Island, 125. 

Mount llolyoke, Mass., 97. 

Mount Ilope, Narraganset Bay, E. I., 

Mount Independence, Lake Cbamplain, 50. 

Mount Katahdin, Me., 124. 

Mount Lafayette, N. H., 109. 

Mount Mansfield, Vt., 115. 

Mount St. Vincent, Hudson Eiver, 34. 

Mount Shasta, Cal., 246. 

Mount Toby, Mass., 99. 

Mount Torn, Mass., 97. 

Mount Vernon, Home and Tomb of Washiuj 

ton, 323. 
Mount Warner, Mass., 99. 
Mount Yonah, Ga., 371. 
Munfordsville, Ky., 419. 
Murfreesborough, Tenn., 412. 
Mui-phy's, Cal., 254. 
Muscatine, la., 208. 
Muscle Shoals, Ala., 385. 
Muskingum Kiver, O., 173. 



Nacoochee Valley, Ga., 371. 

Nahant, Mass., 90. 

Nantasket Beach, Mass., 90. 

Nanticoke, Pa., 168. 

Nantucket, Mass., 91. 

Napoleon, Ark., 408. 

Narraganset Bay, E. I., 76. 

Narrowsburg, N. Y. and Erie E. E., 54. 

Nashua, N. H., 94. 

Nashville, Tenn., 410. 

Napa, Cal., 253. 

Natchez, Miss., 388. 

Nauvoo, El., 196. 

Navassa (voyage N. Y. to Aspinwall), 237. 

Nazareth, Pa., 166. 

Nebraska City, Neb., 234. 

Nebraska Territory, 233. 

Neenah, Wis., 22:3. 

Nephi, Utah, 279. 

Neponset, Mass., 91. 

Nesqually, Wash. Ter., 269. 

Nevada, State of, 275. 

Nevada, Cal., 249. 

New Albany, Ind., 184. 

New Almaden, Cal., 259. 

Newark, N. J., 127. 

Newark, O.. 178. 

Newark, Del., 1.35. 

New Bedford, Mass., 92. 

Newbem, N. C, 346. 

New Britain, Conn., 72. 

New Brunswick, 452. 

New Brunswickj N. J., 127. 

Newburg, N. Y., 39. 

Newbury, N. H., 105. 

Newbury, Vt., 105. 

Newburyport, Mass., 95. 

Newcastle, Del., 136. 

New England States, the, 2. 

New Hamburg, N. Y., 39. 

New Hampshire, State of, 101. 

New Hampton, N. J., 131. 



INDEX. 



New Haven, Coni)., 71. 

New Haven, Hartford & Springfield Eoute, 70. 

New Jersey, State of, 126. 

New Jersey R. R., 126. 

New Lebanon Springs, N. T., 43. 

New London, Conn., 74. 

New Madrid, Mo., 205. 

New Mexico, Territory of, 273. 

Routes, 274. 
New Orleans, La., 390. 

Map of, .390. 

Battle of, 400. 
Newport, R. I., 78. 
Newport, Ky., 417. 
Newport, Me., 123. 
Newport, Penn., 157. 
New Ulm, Minn., 217. 
New Windsor, N. Y., 39. 
New York, State of. 5. 
New York City, 6. 

Map of, 6. 

Art Societies, etc., 17. 

Artists' Studios, 17. 

Cemeteries, 20. 

Charitable Institutions, 18. 

Churches, etc., 19. 

Conveyances, 10. 

Ferries, 10. 

First-class Business Houses, 23. 

Harlem, 28. 

High Bridge, 

Historical Sketch, 7. 

Hotels, etc., 7. 

Landmarks of the Past, 22. 

Libraries, 16. 

Literary Institutions, etc., 15. 

Manhattanville, 

Markets, 20. 

Places of Amusement, 11. 

Public Buildings, 14. 

Public Parks and Squares, 12. 
! Routes from, 29-69. 
New York, Wash. Ter., 269. 
Niagara Falls. Niagara River, the approach, 
I Goat Island, the Rapids, Chapin's Island, 

the Toll Gate, the Cave of the Winds, Lu- 
na Island, Sam Patch's Leap, Biddle's 

Stairs, Prospect Tower, the Horse-shoe 

Fall, Gull Island, Grand Island, the Whirl- 
pool, the Devil's Hole, Chasm Tower, the 

Suspension Bridge, Bender's Cave, the 

Clifton House, Table Rock, Termination 

Rock, the Museum, Burning Spring, 

Brock's Monument, 58-63. 
S'ickaiack Cave, 413. 
■Norfolk, Va., .3.30. 
STorthampton, Mass., 98. 
iSlorth Carolina, State of, .344. 

Mountain Region of, Ml. 
S'orth Conway, N. H., 107. 
SoTth Point, Md., 296. 
^Northumberland, Pa., 162. 
■^orwalk. Conn., 77. 
■Norwich, Conn., 74. 
■iforwich, Vt., 105. 

s^orwich Route, New York to Boston, etc., 48. 
!Nova Scotia, 454. 

Coast of, 454. , 

Rivers, Lakes, and Bays, 454. 
^yack, Hudson River, 34. 



'tekland, Cal., 242. 
Jukland, Pa., ;307. 



Ocmulgee River, Ga., 363. 

Oconee River, Ga., 363. 

Oconto, Wis., 224. 

Ogden, Utah, 279. 

Ogdensburg, N. Y., 442. 

Oglethorpe University, near MilledgeviUe, 

Ga., 369. 
Ohio, State of, 172. 

Rivers, 173. 
Ohio River, Description and Distances, 424, 

Map of, 424. 
Oil City, Pa., 164. 
Oil Creek, Pa., 163. 
Old Point Comfort, Va., a30. 
Olympia, Wash. Ter., 269. 
Omaha City, Neb., 233. 
Opeleika, Ala., 384. 
Orangeburg, S. C, 365. 
Oregon, Stute of, 265. 
Oregon City, 267. 
Oroville, Cal., 246. 
Osage Rivur, Mo., 201, 232. 
Oshkosh, Wis., 22.3. 
Oswego, N. Y., 442. 
Ottawa City, C. W., 441. 
Ottawa River, Canada, 439. 
Ottawa, 111., 196. 
Otter Creek Falls, Vt, 116. 
Overland Mail Line, 287. 
Owatonna, Minn., 217. 
Owego, N. Y. and Erie R. E., 55. 



Pacific City, Wash. Ter., 269. 
Paducah, Ky., 419. 
Palatine Bridge, N. Y., 56. 
Palisades, on the Hudson, 32. 
Palmyra, Mo., 204. 
Panama, 238. 
Paoli, Pa., 1.56. 
Paris, Ky., 417. 
Parkersburg, Va., 336. 
Parkesburg, Pa., 156. 
Parroquet Springs, Ky., 422. 
Parr's Ridge, Md., 302. 
Passamaquoddy Bay, 124. 
Patapsco River. Md., 298. 
Paterson, N. J., 1.31. 
Pawnee, Kansas, 231. 
Payson, Utah, 299. 
Peaks of Otter, Va., 340. 
Pearl River, Miss., .387. 
Peekskill, Hudson River, .36. 
Pendleton, S. C, 360. 
Penn's Cove, Wash. Ter., 270. 
Pennsylvania, State of, 138. 

Oil Region of, 163. 
Pensnylvania Central Railway, 156. 
Penobscot River, Me., 124. 
Pensacola, Fla., .379. 
Pensankee, Wis., 225. 
Peoria, lU., 195. 
Peru, 111., 196. 
Peshtigo, Wis., 225. 
Petaluma, Cal., 251. 
Petenwell Peak, Wis., 220. 
Petersburg, Pa., 158. 
Petersburg, Va., 331. 
Philadelphia and Vicinity, 139. 

Map of, 1.39. 
Philadelphia to Baltimore, 134. 
Philadelphia, Wilmington & Baltimore R. R.. 

134. 
Philadelphia to Pittsburg and the West, 155. 
463 



a 



INDEX. 



Phillips's Beach^ Mass., 90. 
Pickeus Court-House, b. C, oW. . 
Picolata, Fla., 376. 
Piedmont, Va., 307. 
Piermont, Hudson River, 34. 
Pilatka, Fla., 376. 
Pilot Knob, Mo., m 
Pilot Mountain, N. '~^-^^^'- 
Pilot Mountain, Ga., 3ia. 
Pittsburg, Pa., 159. 
Pittsflclcl, Mass., 74-93. 
Pittsfleld, Me., 122. 
Placerville, Cal., 2o0. 
Plainfiekl, Conn., 75. 
Plainfield, N. J., 130. 
Plains of Abraham, Qiiebec 447. 
Plantagenet Springs Canada, 43b. 
Platte Kiver, Mo., 201. 
Plattesmouth, Ne^J-, 2^1. 
Plattsburg, N. Y.,57. 
Plymouth, Mass., 91. 
Plymouth, N. H. 107. 
Pdint Judith,R. I., 79. 
Point Mala, 239. 
Point of Kocks, Md., 303. 
Point Sacrificios, California, 2^9. 
Point Shirley, Mass., 90. 
Pompanoosuc, Vt., 105. 
Portage City, Wis., 224. 
Portchester, N. x., 71. 
Port Clinton, Pa., 160. 
Porte des Morts, Wis., 225. 
Port Kent, Lake Champ am, 50. 
Port Jervis, N. Y. & Erie R. R., 53. 
Portland, Me., 120. 
Portland, Oregon, 267. 
Port Penn, Del., 137. 
Portsmouth, N. H., 103. 
Portsmouth, Va., 330. 
Portsmouth Grove, Mass , 92. 
Port Townsend, Wash. Ter., 200, 
Potomac River, 298. 
Palls of the, 323. 
Potsdam, N. Y., 67. 
Pottstown, Pa., 160. 
Pottsville, Pa., 161. 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y., 39. 
Po%vder Springs, Ga.., 374. 
Prairie du Chien, Wis., 224. 
Prescott, Arizona Ter., 271. 
Prescott, C. W., 441. 
Presque Isle, Pa., 162. 
Princeton, N. J., 128. 
Profile Lake, N. H^ 100. 
Profile Mountain, N. H., 109. 
Providence and Vicmity, K. 1., *o. 
Provo, Utah Ter., 179. 
Puget Sound, 263-'69. 
Pyramid Lal^e, Utah Ter., 378. 

Quakake, Pa., 166. 
Quebec, C. E., 446. 

Vicinity, 447. 
Queenstown, N. Y., 63. 
Quincy, Mass., 91. 
QuiBcy, 111., 195. 

Racine, Wis., 324 

Rahway, N. J., 127. 

itmf^oYalfe,'tY.andErieR.R.,52. 

Randolph, Mass., 91. 
464 



Reading, Mass., 95. 
Reading, Pa., 160. 
Red Bank, N. J., 130. 
RedBlufi', Cal.,346. 
Red Mountain, N. H., 106. 
Red Sulphur Springs, Ga., 374. 
Red Wing, Minn 217. 
Red Wood Falls, Mmn., 218. 
Relay House, Md., 301. 
Reno, Pa., 164. ,-, v 4n 

Khinebeck Landing, N. Y., 40. 
Rhode Island, State of, 7b. 
Richfield Springs, N. Y., 69. 
Richmond, Va., 32b. 
Richmond, Ind., 185. 
Rideau Falls, C. E., 436. 
Rio Grande, Texas, 404 
Roberts Run, Md., 301. 
Rochester, N.Y., 57. "' 
Rochester, Minn., 218. 
Rockaway, L. I., 30. 
Rockford, 111., 19T. 

Rock Island, 111. 196. 

Rockland Lake, Hudson River, 35. 

Rock Mountain, Ga., 3(3. 

Rock River, 111., 187. 

Rocky Point, R. L, 77. 

Rogers' Slide, Lake George, 49. 

Roudout, on the Hudson, 40. 

Rossersville, Ky., 419. 

Rouse's Point, N. Y., 51. 

Rowland Springs, Ga., 3(3. 

Ruby City, Idaho Ter., 280. 

Rulo, Neb., 234. 

Rutland, Vt., 115. 



St. Albans, Vt , 115. 
St. Andrews, N. B., 453. 
St Anne's Falls, Canada, 436. 
St. Anthony, Minn., 213. 

Falls of, 213. 
St. Augustine, Fla 3(7. 
St. CatWines, C.W.,444. 
St. Charles City, Mo., 204 
St. Croix Falls, Minn , 215. 
St. Francis River, Ark., 4U». 
St. Genevieve, Mo., 205. 
St. Helens, Oregon, 267. 
St. Jolin,N.B.,453. 
St. Jolm's River, N. B.. 453. 
St. John's River, Fla., 37b. 
St. Joseph, Mo.; 304 
St. Lawrence River, •WO. 
St. Leon Springs, C. E., 4db. 
St. Louis, Mo., 201.. 
St. Louis River, Wis., 220. 
St. Marys, Ga., 378. 
St. Mary's River, Fla-, 3(8. 
St. Mary, Straits of, 445. 
St. Paul, Minn., 312. 
St. Peter, Minn., 217. 
St. Regis, Canada, 441. 
Sabbat1i-i)ay Point, Lake George, 
Sacketts Harbor, N. \., 44. 
Saco, Me., 121. 
Saco River, Me., 125. 
Sacramento City, Cal., ^. 
Sacramento River, Cal., 244. 
Saddle Mountain, Mass., 74. 
Sagiienay River, C.E., 449. 
Salamanca, N. Y., 55. 
Salem, Mass., 95. 



INDEX. 



Salem, Oregon, 267. 

Salisbury, Bel., 137. 

Salisbury Beach, Mass., 95. 

Salisbury Lakes, Coun, 74, 

Salt Eiver, Ky., 415. 

San Andreas, Cal., 254. 

San Antonio, Texas, 405. 

San Diego, Cal., 261. 

Sandusky, O., 177. 

San Francisco, Voyage to from N.T., 236, 240. 

San Francisco, Cal., 240. 

Map of, 240. 
Sangamon River, HI., 188. 
San Jose, Cal., 259. 
San Pablo Bay. Cal., 237. 
Santa Barbara, Cal., 261. 
Santa Cruz, Cal., 262. 
Santa Fe,N. M., 273. 
Saranac Lakes, N. Y., 64. 
Saratoga Springs, N. Y., 46. 
Saugerties, N. Y., 40. 
Sault Ste. Marie, 445. 
Savannah, Ga., 364. 

Vicinity of, 366. 
Savannah Eiver, 362. 
Savin Hill, Mass., 91. 
Schenectady, N. Y., 56. 
Schooley's Mountain, N. J., 133. 
Schuylk'Ul Eiver, Pa., 139. 
Schuylkill Haven, Pa., 161. 
Scioto Eiver, O., 172. 
Scotch Plains, N. J., 130. 
Scranton, Pa., 169. 
Seabrook, Mass., 95. 
Seaford, Del., 137. 
Seattle, Wash. Ter., 261. 
S.ebago Pond, Me., 124. 
Selma, Ala., 384. 
Seneca Falls, N. Y., 57. 
Seneca Lake, N. Y., 55. 
Shaker Village, N. Y., 68. 
Shakopee, Minn., 216. 
Sharon Springs, N. Y., 68. 
Sharpsburg, Md., 305. 
Shasta City, Cal., 247. 
Shawanegan Falls, C. E., 436. 
Sheboygan, Wis., 224. 
Sheffield, Conn., 74. 
Shenandoah Eiver, Va., 325. 
Shickshinney, Pa., 168. 
Shrewsbury, N. J., 180. 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, Cal., 248. 
Silver City, Nev., 276. 
Silver City. I. T., 280. 
Sing Sing, iST. Y., 35. 
Sioux Eiver and Eapids, Minn., 215. 
Sir John's Eun, Md., 305. 
Skeneateles, N. Y., 57. 
Skcneateles Lake, N. Y., 57. 
Skowhegan, Me., 122. 
Skunk Eiver, Iowa, 206. 
Slicking Falls, S. C, 359. 
Somerset, Mass., 92. 
Sonierville, Mass., 94, 95. 
Somerville, N. J., 131. 
Sonora, Cal., 256. 
South Abington, Mass., 91. 
South Amboy, N. J., 129. 
South Berwick, Me., 122. 
South Braintrce, Mass., 91. 
South Carolina, 349. 

Seaboard and Lowlands, 356. 

Mountain Villages and Scenery, 359. 
South Mountain, Md., 303. 
30 



Southern States, the Population, etc., 2. 

Spartanbui-g, S. C, 360. 

Springfield, Mass., 98. 

Springfield, O., 178. 

Springfield, 111., 194. 

Springs in Canada :— The Caledonia, the Plan- 
tagenet, the St. Leon, and St. Catha- 
rines. Eoutes thither. 

Springs in New York, C8. 

Squam Lake, N. H., 106. 

Stamford, Conn., 71. 

Stanton, Del., 135. 

Star City, Nev., 276. 

Starrucca Viaduct, N. Y. and Erie E. E., 64. 

Staten Island, N. Y., 28. 

Staunton, Va., 335. 

Steilacoom, Wash. Ter., 269. 

Stillwater, Minn., 217. 

Stockbridge, Mass., 74. 

Stockton, iJtah, 279. 

Stockton, Cal., 253. 

Stone Mountain, Ga., 372. 

Stonington Eoute from N. Y. to Boston, 81. 

Stonington, Conn., 75. 

Stony Point, Hudson Eiver, 36. 

Stoughton, Mass., 91. 

Straits of Carquiuez, Cal., 214. 

Strawberry Island, Wis., 225. 

Sturgeon Bay, Wis., 225. 

Sugar Loaf Mountain, Mass., 99, 124. 

Sugar Loaf jMountain, Md., S03. 

Sulphur Springs, Ga., 373. 

Sunbury, Pa., 162. 

Superior City, Minn., 446. 

Susquehanna Eiver, 139, 161. 

Swampscott, Mass., 95. 

Swannanoa Gap, N. C, 347. 

Syracuse, N. Y., 57. 

Table Mountain, S. C, 359. 

Table Eock, N. C, 347. 

Tacony, N. J., 129. 

Tahlac Mountain, Cal., 251. 

Tallahassee, Pla., 378. 

Tallulah Falls, Ga., 370. 

Tampa, Fla., 379. 

Tappau, N. Y., 34. 

Tarpeian Eock, Md., 302. 

Tar and Breckenridge White Sulphur Springs, 

Ky.,423. 
Tar and Sulphur Springs, Ky., 422. 
Tarrytown, on the HucTson, 34. 
Taugkanic Mountains., Mass., 74. 
Taunton, Mass., 92. 
Taylor's Falls, Minn., 217. 
Tea Table, Va., 348. 
Tennessee Caves and Mounds, 413. 
Tennessee Eiver, 409. 
Tennessee, State ol", 409. 

Eailways, 410. ■ 
Terre Haute, Ind., 184. 
Territories, TJ. S., the Population of, etc., 2. 
Texas, State of, 403. 

Eivers, 404. 

Eailways, 404. 
Thompsonville, Conn., 73. 
Thousand Isles, the, 440. 
Thundering Springs, Ga., 374. 
Ticonderoga, Fort^ N. Y., 48. 
Tiflin, O., 178. 
Tinton Falls, N. J., 130. 
Titusville, Pa., 165. 
Tiverton, Mass., 92. 
Tivoli, N. Y., 40. 

465 



INDEX. 



Toboga, 239. 
Toboquilla, 239. 
Toccoa Falls, Ga., 370. 
Toledo, O., 177. 
Tombigbee EiYcr, Ala., 388. 
Topeka, Kansas, 232. 
Toronto, Canada, 443. 
Towalaga Falls, Ga., 373. 
Trenton Falls, N. Y., U7. 
Trenton, N. J., 128. 
Troy, N. Y., 44. 
Try sting Eock, Ga., 371. 
Tuckelata, N. M., 274. 
Tuscaloosa, Ala., 384. 
Tuscumbla, Ala., 385. 
Tyrone City, Pa., 158. 



TJmbagog Lake, Me., 124. 
"Undercliff," on the Hudson, 38. 
Union College, Schenectady, N. Y., 56. 
Union Pacific E. E., 287. 
United States— Extent and Population, 1. 

History, Government, etc., 3. 
University of Virginia, 334. 
Utah Territory, 277. 

Eoutes, 277. 
Utica, N. Y., 56. 



Valencia, N. M., 274. 

ValleyFalls, E. I.,79. 

Valley Forge, Pa., 160. 

Valley of Nacoochee, Ga., 371. 

Valley of Wyoming, Pa., 166. 

Van Buren, Ark., 408. 

Verdrieteges Hook, K. Y., 35. 

Vermilion, 111., 188. 

Vermont Central Eailway, 114. 

Vermont, State of, 114. 

Verplanck's Point, N. Y., 35, 36. 

Vicksburg, Miss., 388. 

Victoria, V. I., 263, 270. 

Virginia, State of— Eoutes, etc., 325. 

Springs, 336. 

Alleghany Springs, 339. 

Bath Alum Springs, 339. 

Berkeley Springs, 339. 

The Blue Sulphur, 338. 

The Eed Sulphur, 338. 

Capon Spi-ings, 339. 

DibreU's Springs, 339. 

Fauquier White Sulphur, 339. 

Grayson's Sulphur, 340. 

Hot Springs, .339. 

Huguenot Springs, 340. 

New London Alum, 340. 

Pulaski Alum Springs, 340. 

Eed Sweet Springs, 339. 

Eockbridge Alum, 339. 

Salt Sulphur, 338. 

Shannondale Springs, 339. 

Sweet Springs, 338. 

Warm Springs, 339. 

White Sulphur, 337. 
Virginia City, Montana Ter., 283. 
Virginia, Nevada, 275. 
Visalia, Cal., 260. 



Wabash Eiver, Ind., 187. 
Wabashaw, Minn., 217. 
Wabassport, Wash. Ter., 269. 
WachuUa, Fla., 379. 
466 



Walhalla, S. C, -360. 

Walla- Walla, Oregon, 267. 

Walled Banks of the Ausable, N. Y., 51, 

Wallingford, Conn., 72. 

Walpo'le, N. H., 104. 

Waltham, Mass., 96. 

Wapsipinicon Eiver, Iowa, 206. 

Wapwollopen, Pa., 168. 

Warm Springs, N. C, 348. 

Warm Springs, Ga., 373. 

Warren, Pa., 165. 

Washington City, D. C, 311. 

Map of, 311. 
Washington Territory, 269. 
Washoe City, Nev., 276. 
Waterbury, Conn., 75. 
Waterbury, Vt., 115. 
Watertown, Mass., 96. 
Watertown, Wis., 224. 
Waterville, Me., 122. 
Watling's Island, 2-36. 
Waukegan, El., 197. 
Waukesha, Wis., 224. 
Weehawken, N. J., 28. 
Weir's Cave, Va., 342. 
Weldon, N. C, 346. 
Wellsburg, Va., 336. 
Wells Eiver, Vt., 106. 
Wenham, Mass., 95. 
West Cambridge, Mass., 96. 
West Campton, N. H., 107. 
Western States, the, 2. 

Population of, etc., 2. 
Westfield, Mass., 93. 
Westminster, Vt., 104. 
Weston, Mo., 204. 
West Point, N. Y., 37. 
Wethersfield,. Conn., 73. 
Wlieatland, near Lancaster, Pa., 156. 
Wheeling, W. V., 335. 
Whidby's Island, Puget Sound, 3TO. 
Whitehall, Pa., 156. 
WhitehaU, N. Y., 49. 
White Mountains, N. H., 101. 

Map, notes, etc., 101-103. 

The Ammonoosuc Eiver, 112. 

The Basin, 110. 

Cannon Mountain, 109. 

The Crystal Falls. 113. 

The Devil's Den, 112. 

DixviUe Hills, 113. 

Eagle Cliiff, 109. 

Echo Lake, 110. 

The Flume, 110. 

The Franconia Hills, 108. 

Great Notch, 112. 

Hotels, 108. 

Mount Lafayette, 109. 

Mt. Washington, 110. 

Oakes's Gulf, 112. 

The " Old Man of the Mountain," or Pro*? 
file Eock, 110. 

The Pool, 113. 

The Profile Lake, 110. 

The Silver Cascade, 112. 

Tuckerman's Eavine, 111. 

The Willey House, 109. 
White Plains, N. Y., 45. 
White Eiver, Ark., 407. 
White Eiver Junction, 105. 
White Sulphur Springs, Ky., 423. 
White Water, Wis., 224. 
White Water Cataracts, S. C, 360. 
Wilkesbarre, Pa., 167. 



INDEX. 



Willamette River, Or., 266. 

VaUey, Or., 266. 
Williamsburg, Va., 331. 
Williams Cofie^e, Mass., 74. 
Williamsport, Pa., 162. 
Williamstown, Mass., 74. 
Willimantic, Conn., 75. 
Willoughby-Lake, Vt., 117. 
Wilmington, Del., 134. 
Wilmington, Mass., 93. 
Wilmington, N. C, 346. 
Winchester, Mass., 94. 
Winchester, Va., 335. 
Windsor, Vt., 105. 
Winnebago Lake, 219. 
Winnipisaukee Lake, 106. 
Winona, Minn., 218. 
Winooski Valley and Elver, Vt., 115. 
Winsted, Conn., 75. 
Wisconsin Eiver, 219. 
Wisconsin, State of, 219. 
Wobum, Mass., 94. 
Wolfe's Cove, Quebec, 448. 
Woodbum, Ky., 418. 



"Woodlands," S. C, 355. 
Woonsocket, R. I., 79. 
Worcester, Mass., 98. 
Wrightstown, Wis., 223. 
Wyandotte Cave, Ind., 181. 
Wyoming Valley, Pa., 167. 

Yankton, Dacotah Ter., 286. 
Yazoo Eiver, Miss., 198. 
Yellowstone Eiver, 201. 
Yonah, Mount, Ga., 371. 
Yonkers, Hudson River, 33. 
York, Pa., 134. 
Yorktown, Va., 332. 
YorkviUe, S. C, 360. 
Yo-Semite Valley, Cal., 267. 
Youghiogheny River, Pa., 139. 
Ypsilanti, Mich., 228. 
Yreka, Cal., 248. 



Zanesville, O., 17. 
Zenia, O., 178. 



467 



CALENDAR FOR 1867-'68. 


1867. 


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CO 

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p. 




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1868. 


(72 

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1 










1 


2 


3 


4 




2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 




5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


JPNE . . . .^ 


9 
16 


10 


11 

18 


12 
19 


13 

20 


14 
21 


15 
22 


JMUARY. .- 


1213 
19 20 


14 
21 


15 

22 


1.6 
23 


17 
24 


18 
25 




23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 




26127 


28 


29 


30 31 


., 




30 








. , 


, , 
























1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 




, , 






, , 






1 




7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 




2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


JCLT - 


14 
21 


16 
22 


16 
23 


17 
24 


18 
25 


19 

26 


20 

27 


FEBRUARY .- 


9 
16 


10 
17 


11 
18 


12 
19 


13 14 
20 21 


15 
22 




28 


29 


30 


31 


•• 


•• 


•• 




23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 




;; 


.. 


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1 


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4 


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"7 




4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 




8| 9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 


AUCrST ... 


11 

18 


12 
19 


13 

20 


14 
21 


15 

22 


16 
23 


17 
24 


JJIARCH ... 


15 
22 


16 17 

23124 


18 
25 


19 
26 


20 

27 


21 
28 




25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 




29 


30 


31 


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8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 




5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


SEPTEJIBER 


15 
22 


16 

23 


17 
24 


18 
25 


19 
26 


20 

27 


21 

28 


APRIL. . . .- 


12 

19 


13 

20 


14 

21 


15 
22 


16 
23 


17 
24 


18 
25 




29 


30 


•• 


•• 


•• 


•• 


•• 




26 


27 28 


29 


30 


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2 3 


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2 




6 


h 


8 


9 10 


11 


12 




3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


OCTOBER . . 


13 


14 


15 


16 17 


18 


19 


MAT - 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


20 


21 


22 


2324 


25 


26 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 23 




27 


28 


29 


30 31 




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24 


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3 


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6 


6 


7 


8 


9 




7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 13 


NOVEMBER.^ 


10 


11 
18 


12 
19 


13 

20 


14 
21 


15 
22 


16 

23 


JUNE . . . .- 


14 
21 


15 

22 


16 
23 


17 
24 


18 
25 


1920 

26 27 




24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 




28 


29 


30 




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8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


141 




5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 11 


DECEMBER.- 


15 

22 


16 
23 


17 
24 


18 
25 


19 
26 


20 

27 


21 

28 


JULY . . . .- 


12 
19 


13 14 

20!21 


15 

22 


16 
23 


17J18 
24 25 




29 


30 


31 


• • 




.. 


.. 




26 


27 28 


29 


30 


31 


.. 


^ 


1- • 














.. 












_•_•_ 



Opposite Bond Street. 
Branch of 156 and 15S Fulton Street. 



I T A.¥ m A H T 

Ifo. 661 Broadway, 



nSTETV YORK. 

Late with Berry, No. 9 Broad Street, 



II 



THE TRAVELLER'S MEMORANDUM. 

*5jj* The tvaveller is respectfully solicited to note all errors 
and omissions which he may discover in this work, and any new 
facts of interest, — and to send sucli memoranda to tlie Editor, 
care of the Publishers. Such communications must be accom- 
panied by the name and address of the wi'iter. 



THE TRAVELLEK S MEMOUAJSTDinM. 



THE TIJAVELLEK S JIEMORANDUM. 



THE TKAYELT.EU S BIEMORANDUM. 



THE TKAVj!<:LLEk's J.IEM0KANI)UM. 



G THE TRAVELLEn's JMEMORANDUM, 



^ 



THE TRAVELLER S MEMORANDUM. 



THE TRA:VEIJiEK':S s MEMORANDUM. 



THE TEAVELLER's MEMOBANDUM. 



10 THE TRAVJEI.LER's MESIOKANDirM. 



mk 



THE traveller's MEMORANDUM. 



11 



12 THE TKAVELLEr's MEMORANDUM. 



m mwi 



yp^ 



MONUMENT SQUARE, 




BARNUM & CO, Proprietors. 









G 



P 



ALLERIES OF JT HOTOGRAPHY, 



NEW YORK AND BALTIMORE. 



NEW WKK, 
Corner 5th Avenue and 17th. St. 



207 Baltimore Street. 



^n inieresiing Collection of !Pictures always on JF!RJS^ 
MXSISITIOJSr. 

W° Photography in all its Branches. 



CANFIELD, BROTHER & CO., 



DEALEBS IS 



SILVER PLATED GOODS OF BEST STYLES; 

RICH I>A.RIS in^A-N^CY G^OODS; 

Clocks, Bronzes, Vases, Fans, Opera Classes, &c. 



I 



ALSO, 



MILITAEY GOODS POE AEMY AND NAVY, 

229 Baltimore Street, BALTIMORE. 



COLEMAN'S 



11 
11 



BALTIMORE. Md. 



E. B. COLEHAK 



L- 



litrtitlit 



at 



m 



'$ 



F01SMEIS1.Y 




JPEWNSYL VAN I A AVBNVB, 



WASHINGTON CITY. 



This fine establishment, with accommodations for three hundred persons, has 
been newly fitted and furnished. Visitors wUl find it a most desirable Hotel to 
sojourn at. 

4 



n TO IT rp rini 







Corner F and 14tli Streets, 



9 D> Ga 



C. C. WILLARD, 

Many years Proprietor Hygeia Hotel, Old Point. Oomfort, Va., 



m^WE 



K,ici3:3Sj:o3srr), "V-a.. 




J. L. CABHIWGTOW & CO., Proprietors. 



This leading fashionable Hotel has been newly and elegantly furnished, 
and is now ready to extend a "Virginia welcome" to its patrons. 



Jill. A Jj Jj o 






Corner of il^eeting and Queen Streets, 



CHARLESTON. S/C. 



[jSuUt in 1853 and furnished equal to any in the United States, 



Entirely Eefurnislied in 1866. 



JOSEPH PUKCEIL,!:., Proprietor. 



KST^BLISKKD IIST 1838. 



JOHN K. RANDALL, 



uU$^ mli Mltihm^, 



Printer & Blank Book Manufacturer, 



JVo. 5 {old Wo. 44) NOMTM WATBU STMEBT, 



M@felS©. Ma« 



%m 







AND 



BLANK BOOK MANUFACTURER, 



Corner Water and St, Francis Streets, 



]\4:OBILE. 

8 



StB 









Southeast Corner Dauphin and Royal Streets. 



The undersigned will keep constantly on hand and for sale, 



t.f 



CON"SISTrN"G OF 

LAW, MEDICAL, THEOLOGICAL, SCHOOL, AND BUSCELLAJVEOFS BOOKS 

OF THE LATEST EDITIOjST. 

STATIONERY, 

Consisting of PAPER and ENVELOPES of every description, size, and color. Also, a full 

assortment of 

BLANK BOOKS, 

INKS— Black, Bine and Eed. SEALHTG "WAX- Eed, Bine and Fancy. Faircliild's GOLD 
PENS. Lead PENCILS and Steel PENS, of various makes. WRAPPING PAPER and TWINE. 
Photographic ALBUMS from 50 cents to $50. Photographic PICTURE FRAMES, 25 cents to $1. 

School Books and Pocket Books. 

POCKET KNIVES. Gold and Silver PENCI L CASES. PO RTFOLIOS, WRITING DESKS, &c. 
Together with a fine assortment of 



ALL OF WSICH WILL BE SOLD AT THE LOWEST CASH PRICES. 
F. XITCOMB, Southeast cmi-ner DaupJiin and Moyal Streets, Mobile. 



52 Dauphin Street, Mobile, 



WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN 




tlliliFfi 



MUSIC km MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 



I*ia.TDlislxers' Trade Ijists "Waiited. 
9 



DENECHAUD'S 

IgTlllllf 111 iit%w.,, 

17 NOMTH MOTAL STMEET, 

(Opposite the Battle House,) RtQ'SBLEe, 



BRANCH HOUSE: 

CORNER GROVE AND WALNUT STS., VICKSBURG, MISS. 



Ed. IDEISTECH^TID, I>roprietor. 



Private Mootns for Private Parties in Both Houses* 

LUNCH AT ALL HOURS FOR TRAVELLERS. 

L&Sf lEa HOUSE. 

Mulberry Street, Macon, Ca. 



G-EO. M. LOaAN, Proprietor. 



Omnibus and Baggage Wagon at each Train to convey Passen- 
gers and Baggage to the House. 

FREE OMNIBUS TO AND FROM THE KAILROAD. 
10 



J. W. BURKE & CO., 

MACON, Ga., 

Have established in this City 
FIRST-CLASS BOOK STORE, 

Where they keep on hand and sell as low as possible, FOR CASH ONLY, 
ALL KINDS OF 

SCHOOL, raSCELLAlEOUS, RELIGIOUS, JUVENILE, AND SABBATH SCHOOL 

I^ o o s^ @. 

FOOLSCAP, LETTER, AliTD NOTE PAPERS; INKS, PENS, AND ALL DESCRIPTIONS 
OF PLAIN AND FANCY STATIONERY. 

Photograpli Albums in great Tariety, Card Photographs of Generals, Works of Art, &c. 

SPECIAL AGENTS EOE SALE OP PUBLICATIONS OP 

». APPLETON Jfc CO., New York, I SHELDON & CO., New York, 

" S. BARNES & CO., « | IVISON, PHINNEY, BLAKEMAN & CO. « 

They also have an extensive 



i ami Itl Pf itttlif Iltiii, 



'* Where all kinds of work can be done. BINDESTG- in every style neatly executed. 

^^° Give them a call. 






WASHING-TOISr BLOCK. 



S 






BLANK BOOKS, STATIONERY, 



11 



H 

It" 
O 

d 

M 

CQ 

o 

t?d 
Jr" 

t^ 



O 

!> H 
b \> 

H 

« 




13 



BOYS' CLOTHS^^C Ef^PORIUM. 




PARSS, LONDON, A^O NEW YO^IC FASHIONS. 

14 



L. TT. LYOISrS & CO., 



■WHOLESALE DEPARTMENT, 

131 and 133 COMMON STREEJO. 

RETAIL DEPARTMENT, 

26, 28 and 30 St. Charles Street, coi^ner Cominon, 



mm' 



:I6, 



FUKlSriSHINa GOODS, 
Shirts, Trunks, Traveilsreg; Bags, Valises, 

■tJ]MBRElL,Ij^S, AV^A.TEE-PJRO OF GOODS, &;c., &c. 



MA^TJFACTOBY OYEE STOEES. 



large assortme7it of French, £Jnglis7i, Gennan, and Ameri- 
can ^iece Goods. I^atest styles, suitable to ilie 
seasons, always 07i hand. 

Clothing made to order in the most durable manner and approved styles, with 
despatch. 

L. W. LYONS & CO., New Orleans. 
15 



If. tAnis e#f a. 



Magazine, between Gravier and Natchez Sts. 



^w ^ 



!>3) a=fimB 



CHARLES E. SMEDES, Proprietor. 



It is newly furnished from the kitchen to the roof. Spring Beds, Hair Mat 
tresses, Linen Sheeting, etc. The Furniture and Table Ware all new, of the lates 
style and most costly Material. The Table is furnished with every luxury the Market 
affords. The Bars with Liquors equal to any used in private families, and the com- 
forts and pleasures of a home, as far as possible, guaranteed to its Guests. The 
House itself may be said to be entirely new and fresh. The undersigned will sparei 
neither labor nor expense to merit a continuance of the Uberal support with which he 
has thus far been honored. 

CHARIiXIS E. SWOEDIES. 



16 




fc.Tft>« 



>. 11>I 



itit^ee 



i^x,^"" 




TJ 




(S^Qjlwrnhmu. ©t. 



< 



HORBACH & KERR, Proprietors. 









I 



Broad Street, Corner Crawford Street, 

COLUMBUS, GA., 

SHIVERS, WYNNE & CO, Proprietors. 



This House is centrally located, and the proprietors will spare no paina or ex- 
pense for the comfort of their guests. 

SHIVEBS, WYNNE S CO, 



17 



II W 11 W V II iHf II ^ 




litis F. Ittlill, r»f ritttr, 



(Late of Galt House, Louisville, Ky.) 



CORlSrER of THIRD and VINE STREETS, 



CinCiS^i^ATI. 



R. W. CARROLL & CO., 

117 West 4th Street, CINCINNATI, 

PUBLISHEES, BOOKSELLERS & STATIONEES, 




"WHOLESALE AND EETAIL, 

KEEP CONSTANTLY ON HAND 

THE LARGEST AND BEST ASSORTED STOCK OF 

OOKS AND STATIONERY, 

OF EVERY IMAGINABLE KIND, TO BE FOUND IN ANY HOUSE 
IN THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. 



By the recent fire at Pike's Opera House Building we lost our entire stock, but 
\ have purchased an entirely new, fresh, and well-selected one, which we offer at 

and will always sell on as favorable terms as the market will permit, or as any other 
1 house can give. Among the great variety of articles sold by 

R. W. CARROLL & CO., 

AEE THE FOLLOWING : 

SOHOOI. BOOKS 

OF EYEHY KIMD, USED IIJ THE WEST, 

Law Books, Medical Books, Scientific Books, Theological Books, Agricultural Books, 
and all Varieties of Miscellaneous Books, including Histories, IBiographies, Travels, 
Novels, and Illustrated Works ; Photograph Albums and Cards, Plain and Fancy 
Letter and Note Paper, Foreign and Domestic Stationery, Foolscap and Flatcap Paper, 
Gold Pens, Inkstands, Steel and Quill Pens, Lead Pencils, Chess Boards, Cribbage 
■Boards, Paper Weights,"' Paper Cutters, Card Cases, Pocket Books, Portfolios, 
Writing Desks, Pocket Cutlery, 

Diaries, 3Ieniorandtim,, Scrap, and SlanJc SooJcs, 

In fact, their stock includes every variety of Books and Stationery, which they 
invite Dealers to examine before purchasmg, as they are confident they offer the 
greatest facilities, and can give satisfiiction. 

R. ^W. CARROLL & CO., 

117 West 4th Street, ClrJCg^^NATI. 

19 



ITHFRI 



m' 




THEODOME LAVEILLE, 



CMAS, P. WABNEB 




GEO, W. FOBD. 



WALKEB M. CAMTEM, 



LAVEILLE, WAENEH & CO., 

PKOPBIETORS. 



20 



fW ^A. i %J KM 



E. JACCARD & CO., 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

AJSTD 

SILVER WARE MANUFACTURERS. 

DEALERS IN 



FIITE JEWELRY AITD FAlsTCY G-OODS, 
PLATED WARE AND CUTLERY. 



m:ilit^iiy goods. 

LINE OFFICERS, STAFF, MEDICAL, PAYMASTERS, & GENERAL OFFICERS 

United States Reguiation 

SWORDS, BELTS, SABRES, ETC., ETC. 

GOLD TRIMMINGS, PASSANTS, WEEATHS, BUGLES, BUTTONS, 
REGIMENTAL PL AGS, ETC., 

Of aU qualities, constantly on hand. 

75 Marble Building, Fourth Street, 

ST. LOUIS. 

21 



f BlM©lf H©lil 

Corner Lake and Dearborn Streets, 






^" --" 



REBUILT AMD REFURMISHED IN 1862. 

2he Ija7'gesi, Sesl ^ppoi7ited, and Most Centrally J^ocaied 
Ftrst- Class Motel in Chicago; 

HAS ALL THE MODERN IMPROVEMENTS ; 

NUMESOTJS SUITES OF EOOMS, BATHS, ETC., CONNECTED. 

GAGM & DRAKE, Proprietors, 



22 



A. H. MILLER, 

Southeast Corner of Mandolph and Clark Streets, 
CH i C AQ O. 



WATCHES, 

DIAMONDS, 



A large assortment 

OF 

SILVEK-¥AEE, 

Constantly on hand 

AND 

MADE TO ORDER 

IN 

Any Style. 

Bronze 

Statuettes, 

Marble Clocks, 
FANS, 

&c. 

PAT 



JFi:¥E GOLD JBWBLBY, 
~-=- ~-=-~ A fine Selection 



■With Choice 

CliuTcli and Opera 

MUSIC, 

OE 

Made to Order; 

OPERA GLASSES, 
Writing Desks, 

CANES, 




■Western Ag-ent for the CelelDrated 

K, PHILIPPE <S6 CO. 



These Watches are universally acknowledged to be the strongest and most dura- 
ble Fine Watches sent to America. They have all the latest imi^rovements, such as 
I'ifth Seconds, Independent or Double Time, Repeating, Stem-Winding, or plain move- 
ments. 

Fine Watches carefully repaired by the most competent Workmen. 

PME8:EN'TATI0N jewelmt, 

of the newefit and richest patterns, made to order in my own Factorv over the Store. 

23 



OTJR GOODS ^nK ^LL ITI E, ST-C L, A.S S. 

DRAPER, TAILOR, AND GENTS' FURNISHER, 



S 









';i^ fflwiu 




iJi ' 



7 



|| r 



' iiii ii III 



'ii I II III II i\\\ ^ 



98, 100, «& 102 BEAKBOHIN, cor. ■WASMINGT'OIV STKEET, 
Midway between TremoBt and Sherman House and Post Office, C H I C A G • 



WE ■WARRANT EVERYTHING AS REPRESENTED. 
24 



€m ^ ^j& ^a i^ ^^ ty^ ty; ® A ^ 



€Hie 




This Hotel is located on the corner of CLARK and 
RANDOLPH STREETS, oppofite Court House Square; 
was firft opened to the public in July, 1861 ; is the largeft 
Hotel in Chicago, and one of the fineft in the United States; 
and has all the modern improvements, including a Paflenger 
Elevator. 

GAGE, WAITE & CO., Proprietors. 

25 




26 



o 
"^ 

o 

a 

CQ 




27 



NATIONAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY, 

(LIMITED.) 



1 




NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, 

Calling at Queenstown to Land Passengers. 

SHIPS. TONS. COIOIANDEES. 

ENGLAND 3,450 Grace. 

SCOTLAND 3,698 Hall. 

VIRGINIA 3,310 Prowse. 

HELVETIA 3,315 Ogilvie. 

THE QUEEN 3,517 Grogan. 

ERIN 3,3 10 Cutting. 

PENNSYLVANIA 2,872 Lewis. 

LOUISIANA 2,166 Thompson. 

DENMARK 3,117 Thompson. 

FRANCE 3,200 , (Building). 

GERMANY 3,100 (BuUding). 

Leaving Pier No. 47 North Miver every SATUMDAY and 
Alternate WJEDNESDAT. 

These steamers were biiild under inspection, and are classed Lloyd's A 1 for 
twenty-one years. The accommodations for Passengers are unsurpassed, and they are 
supplied with every comfort and luxury — with lower rates for passage than any other 
Line. The State Rooms open directly into the Saloon. Steerage Passage includes an 
unlimited supply of Fresh Provisions cooked and served up hythe Company's 
Stewards. 

An experienced Surgeon on each ship free of charge. 

Cabin Passage $100 : Steerage, $30. Payable in Currency. 

Steerage Passage tickets to bring parties from Liverpool or Queenstown for $40, 
Currency 

Drafts for any amount issued on any Bank in Great Britian and Ireland, at the 
lowest rate. 

The owners of these vessels will not be accoimtable for specie or valuables, unless 
bills of lading, having their value expressed thereon, are signed therefor. 

Apply in Liverpool at the OflSce of the National Steam Navigation Company 
(Limited), W. B. Macalister, Manager, No 14, the Albany, Old Hall-street, and 5*7 and 
68 Waterloo-road. 

For Freight or Cabin Passage apply at the Office of the Company, No. 5Y Broad- 
way, and for Steerage Tickets at the Passage Office of the Company, No. 21 Broad- 
way, or No. 2V5 Pearl Street. 

F. W. J. HURST, Manager. 

28 



Mi £1 



\\ ¥ l^-i 



m \ji 1 



.j« 




BROAD AND CHESTNUT STREETS, 



The undersigned, having leased the above favorite house, and having REFITTED 
AND REFURNISHED IT THROUGHOUT IN THE MOST ELEGANT MANNER, 
will spare no pains to maintain the character it has always enjoyed, as 

0]^E OF THE BEST FIEST-OLASS HOTELS 

Of the Country. 

29 



JAMES E. CALDWELL & CO., 

No. 822 CHESTNUT STREET, 

(Adjoining Continental Hotel), PHILADELPHIA, 

IMPOBTF.RS, MANUFACTURERS, AND DEALERS IN 

DIAMONDS and PRECIOUS STONES, 



SUITES OF 



BIGH JEWELB Y, 

Fine Watches, Traveling Timepieces, 
MANTEL CLOCKS, REAL BRONZES, 

CANDELABRAS, STATUART AND VASES, SILVER- 
WARES OF EXQUISITE DESIGNS, 

RARE NOVELTIES, FANCY ARTICLES, 

And every produ<Slion of Induftry and Art appertaining to the 

businefs of 

GOLDSMITHS AND SILVERSMITHS. 



FIXED PRICES IN PLAIN FIGURES. 



Strangers are cordially invited to visit this ^Establishment, 
-whether their object be to pterchase or otherwise, 

30 



tiiiilal lit 




j_ E- i5:i]sra-si.E-3r <sc co-. 



iProprietors. 



31 



fsmoiff-Hoi 



BOSTON 




Bingham, Wrisley & Company. 



32 









BOSTOM 




Bingham, Wrisley & Company. 



33 



BiGELow Brothers & Kennard, 

219 WASHINGTON STMBBT, 
BOSTON, 

IMPOETEKS, JOBBERS, AND EETAILEES OF 

GENUINE AUTISTIC BEONZES, 



JEWELRY, 

OF AI.I. KINl)^. 



mm 



litis 



Silver Ware J in all its variety, always in stock, and manufactured to order. 

Latest Ifovelties in the trade received by every steamer from resident 
agents abroad. 

Precious Stones mounted, and fine Jewelry made to order upon the prem 
ises by superior workmen. 

Agents for tlie very desirable 

MANUFACTURKD BY THE NEW 

TREMONT WATCH COMPANY OF BOSTON. 



WHOLESALE DEPAETMENT, No. 10 Bromfield Street. 
34 



.« 



BOSTON. 




LEWIS RICE, Proprietor. 



35 




MACULLAR, WILLIAMS & PARKER, 

Manufacturers of, and Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 

FIRST-CLASS CLOTHING, 

AND 

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF 

FINE WOOLLENS. 

Manufactory and Principal Warehouse at 

194 WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



BRANCH STORE FOR THE SALE AT WHOLESALE AND RETAIL OF 

Fine and Medium Clothing, 



men's furnishing goods, 



270 KING STREET, CHARLESTON, S. C. 

36 



I^^ 






iMf li lit I] 



?j 



BIS 







OPPOSITE THE 



i©w Y®* loidl M©w Hla^eijis aiiinl W©st©ra PSillpsidl ^®^@% 



F. M. PRATT, 

Formerlf of the American House. 



37 



Life and Accident Insurance. 



THE OE,IG}-I3Nr.A.Xi 



OF HARTFORD, Conn., 

INSURES AGAINST ALL ACCIDENTS 
Causing Loss of Life or Bodily Injury. 



ALSO, INSURES AGAINST 



LOSS OF LIFE FROM ANY CAUSI 

"Wlietliex- Disease or -A^ccid.ent, 

WITH COMPENSATION FOE PEESONAL INJUEIES. 



Paid up Capstal, $500;00C 

\Vitli. a net Siai-plns of over $S00,000. 



GENERAIj ACCIDSNT policies insure against all personal casualties (exci 
disease), paying any sum frem $1,000 to $10,000 in the event of fatal accident, or $5 to $50 Tveel 
compensation for disahUng injury, at the cost of $5 to $20 annual premium per $1,000, accord 
to occupation. A. liberal discount on three and live year policies. General Accident Policies 
quire no medical examination. All ages ars taken, fi-om 15 to 75, and the Agent will ■vvrite l 
Policy without the delay of a transmission to the Home Office. 

LIFE AND ACCIDENT POLICIES combine all the benefits of Life and Aceidi 
insurance under one policj', at surprisingly low rates of premium. Tbey insure against loss 
life from any cause, whether disease, accident, violence, or natural death ; with compensation 
disabling injury by accident. All approved forms of Life Policies written — Ten Yeab N< 
FoEFEiTABLE, NoN-FoKPEiTABLE ENDOWMENT, LiFE, Or Teem — either With Or without CO 
pensation for injuries, as the applicant may prefer. Of the new Life and Accident Policy (co 
bined), the Philadelphia Insurance, Reporter says : 

'•The history of life insurance records no instance where loss or damage done to the person, 
well as absolute loss of lifc^ have been covered under one insurance policy. This new feature 1 
Travelers of Hartford have adopte(J ; and, while it covers a still broader ground than either ( 
ordinary life or accident policy, the expense attending the same is but slightly increased. "^ 
look upon this new feature as being one step forward in the life business, and calculated to sup 
sede the old system entirely. There is so much propriety in covering, under one policy, i 
esra-pe from death, as well as death itself, that no thinking person could hesitate to adopt su 
a policy at once." 

OVER FOUR THOUSAND LOSSES PAID 

Witliin the Eirst Two Years of Business. 

The Tkavelees, op HAETroKD, is the pioneer Accident Insurance Company of America, a 
the first to combine life and accident insurance under one policy ; it has a capital and net surpl 
of over $700,000, safely invested for the security of policy-holders ; it is managed by careful a 
experienced underwriters; it had, up to December 1st, issued upward of eighty thousa7id pc 
cics, and p?'o??!p^^i!/ paid over four thouttand losses, — among them, sixty-four total losses ( 
death), in which the large sum of §198,500 was realized for $1,117 received in premiums. 

J. G. BATTEESGIJ, President. EODNEY DEl^NIS, Secretary^ 

BOSTON OFFICE : 4© State Street. KEW YORK OFFICE : SOT Broadwa 

€MiCAG© BSANCe OFFICE s 80 La Salle Street. 

gencies in all priucipal cities and towns of United States and Canadas. 
38 



THE 

RAILWAY PASSENGER'S 

ASSURANCE COMPANY, 

OF HAETFOED, CONK 



Paid-up Capital, - - - - $304,800 

ISSUES TICKETS OF INSURANCE AGAINST ALL KINDS OF ACCIDENTS, 
RESULTING IN LOSS OF LIFE OE PERSONAL INJURY. 



The Stock is owned by the following Accident Insurance Companies, -who 
have consolidated in this Company their short time, or Ticket Insurance 
Departments : 

The Tkatelebs, o/ Hartford, Ct.; The Teatellees, of Providence, R. I.; 

The Accident, of Columbus, Ohio : The Western Tkansit, of St. Louis, Mo.; 

The Nobthwbstekn, of Madison, Wis.; The Noeth Ameeican Transit, of PMla., Pa.; 

The United States Accident, of Syracuse, N. Y. 



The General Accident Tickets of Travel 

(Sold at Railroad and Steamboat Ticket Offices), cover all Accidents happening to the In- 
sured during the prosecution of his journey, insuring $25 per week Compensation during 
Total Disability, for a period not exceeding 26 weeks, from non-fatal injuries, and $5,000 
in the event of death. At Twent')/ cents per day ; I>iscountfrom the Daily Bates on Ticlcets 
for Twenty and Thirty Bays. 

The Travelers' Risk Tickets 

(Sold at Railroad and Steamboat Ticket Offices), cover such Accidents ONLY as may happen 
TO THE CONVEYANCE by which the Insured may be at the time traveling, and* result in 
Loss of Life or Personal injury, insuring $15 per week Compensation during Total Disabil- 
ity, for a period not exceeding 26 weeks, from non-fatal injuries, and $3,000 in the event of 
death. At Ten cents per Bay ; Discount from the Baily Bates on Tickets for Twenty and 
Thirty Bays. 

Registered Short-Time Policies, 

Sold by Agents of the companies parties to this Consolidation. Insuring against all kiiads of 
Accidents, Traveling or otherwise., securing 

$5,000 IN CASE OF DEATH, OR $25 PER WEEK INDEMNITY, 

During Total Disability, for 26 weeks, from any kind of Accident, without reference to the 
Time, Place, or Manner of Occurrence, 

One Day, 25 Cts., Three Days, 75 Cts., Eive Days, $1 25, Ten Days, $2 50. 

As these policies are consecutively numbered, and the name and residence of the purcha- 
ser carefully registered and recorded at the Home Office, his rights are guaranteed in case of 
htal accident, or loss of the Policy. 
FAS. G. BATTERSON, Pres. GEO. B. WRIGHT, Vice-Pres. HENRY T. SPERRY, Sec, 

BOARD OF DIRECTORS: 

JAMES G. BATTERSON, GUSTAVUS P. DAVIS, Hartford, Ct. 

LEWIS L. HOUPT, JAIMES M. CONRAD, Philadelphia, Pa. 

CH. H. HASKINS, W. A. BRAWNER, St. Louis, Mo. 

N. B. VAN SLYKE, SAMUEL D. HASTINGS, Madison, Wis. 

BENJAMm E. SMITH, GEORGE B. WRIGHT, Columbus, O. 

H. H. ORMRBEE, ALEXANDER FARNUM, Providence, R. I. 

A. A. HOWLETT, FRANK HISCOCK, Syracuse, N. Y. 
JUSTIN SNOW, General Ticket Agent. C. D. PALMER, General Agent. 

39 



WT ^ 



Comer Sutter and Montgomery Streets, 
SAN FRANCISCO. 



THIS HOUSE IS IN EVEET EESPEOT 

THE FIRST-CLA^SS HOTEL 

OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Iti« interior is finished with a degree of excellence unsurpassed by any Hotel in th( 

United States. 

BATHS ON EVERY FLOOR; 

IN FACT, 

A.ILiTj THLK IMIPiiOVEMlKN'TS OF THE A.&K: 

JOHNSON &c CO., Proprietors. 



40 



1 



J. W. TUCKER & CO., 

JEWELLERS, 
MontgoTnery Street, San Francisco, Cal, 



This houi3e keeps one hundred men employed in the manufacturing of 
and do all kinds of Lapidary work, such as 

Cutting and PolisMng Grold-bearing Quartz, 

and other California Stones and Petrifactions, and mounting the same. 
Also import all tlieir own Watch Movements direct, and case the same 
in California Gold. Import 

and other Precious Stones, from Paris, Amsterdam, and other European Cities. 
P, S. — ^Keep on hand a large stock of 

Every thing as guaranteed, or money refunded. 



18 



41 



STEREOSCOPIC "W'lBWS 



OF 



M 

Ma 



ziwommm 



A SEEIES OF OYER ONE THOUSAND VIEWS 

OF THE 

Most Frominent Points of Interest on tlie Pacific Coast 

PHOTOGEAPHED AKD PUBLISHED BY 

LAWRENCE &, HOUSEWOHTH Opticians, ^ 

317 and 319 Montgomery St., San Francisco, 



Catalogues sent to any part of the world, free of postage. 



W^ 



^^ 



Between Sixth and Seventh Streets, 
SACRAMENTO. 



D. E. CALLAHATsT, Proprietor. 



JR'ree Carriage to and from the Cars and Steamboats . 

42 



llWiSl 



tefif raf. 



SE, 



HSTo- 113 E^^ST SI:s:TKC ST^tEET, 



W, P. AWD^EBSOWf Manager, 




(S^ATAWMA, 11 



ig) t*±=flfe^B 



WILKES BARRE, 
Ward & Co,, Proprietors. 



This house for beauty of situation is unsurpassed in this' 
country, and has a combination of all the modern improve- 
ments found in city hotels. It is magnificently furnished 
throughout, and has accommodation for 200 guests. 

' Spacious Balconies command a view of the charming 
Valley of Wyoming, while the Susquehanna glides beneath, 
and is visible for miles on either side. The Drives and 
opportunities for Sailing, Rowing, and Fishing are excellent, 
and the Proprietors will spare nothing in order to make it 
one of the most delightful, as well as fashionable, places of 
resort in the country. 

43 



TO TOURISTS, TRAVELLERS, AND MINERS 



PACIFIC MAP DEPOT, 

51 I Montgomery Street, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



A. G E N S O U l_, 
MAP PUBLISHEE, BOOKSELLEE, AND STATIONEE. 



A FULL ASSORTMENT OF 



in use on this Coast. 

MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS, STATIONERY, &c. 



I^UNS, RIFLES, REVOLVERS, DERIKGER PISTOLS 




IlIPORTEKS iJO) JOBBEES OF 



AMMUNITION, &c., &c., 

2-ro. 262 Sraadicay, J^eiv Yoi'Jc. 
Sole Agents for 

" Ballard's" Patent Breech-Loading 

Sporting and Military Eifles and Carbines, 

EAGLE ARMS COMP AMY'S PATENT CARTRIDGE REVOLVERS, 
WHITXET ABMS COMPiM'S COLT'S MODEL REVOLTEES AXD SHOT 

New York Metallic Ammunition Company's Water-Proof Cartridges, 

SINGLE-SHOT PISTOLS, &c., &c. 
44 




Gors 



f 9'm Gm 




This popular and well-known Hotel, situated in MEETING STREET corner of 
HATNE, has been newly furnished throughout, and cannot be excelled by any in the 
country. 

WM. WHITE, Proprietor. 

S. F. STORM, 



11 



T 



HOWARD MOTEL, 178 BBOADWAT, 
NEW YOR K. 



ZiUtest Style of Gents' JEats and Caps always on hand, and 
JPfade to Oi^dej' in the Sesi J) fanner. 

EVEEY DESOEIPTION OF FUES m THEIE SEASON. 

45 



W¥ MWMH' W®¥f^ 



fj /um/i^ci/JAiix m 



.A^lL,:BJ^1^^5r. 



^ -m^ mm^AMW 



|¥ iBpj 







ilmwJpJJa: 



W(ft) 



SARATOGA, 

OHAS. E. LELAND. 



47 



WELLS, FARGO & COMPANY, 

CAPITAL, $10,000,000, ^ 

Bankers, and General Express Forwarders, 

TO THE 

PACIFIC STATES AWD TEBBITOMIES, 

SOUTH AND CENTRAL A3IEItICA, 

CMINA AND JAPAN. 

PROPKIETOES OF THE 

Great Overland Stage Route, 

BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS, 

Carrying the U. S. Mails, Passengers, and Treasure. 



On SAN FMAJSrCISCO and Intermediate Points, 
LOWDON, 

DUBLIN, and 

I*AMIS, 



Travellers' Credits on Union Bank of London, 



unds Transferred by Telegraph, 

To SAN FRANCISCO, SALT LAKE CITY, &c., 

LOUIS McLANE, President. 
48. 



' PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY'S 

Througli Line to California, 

Touching at Mexican Ports, and carrying tlie U. S. Mail, 



THROTJO-IES I3Sr T^V^^IHSTT-^Z'-T^W'O JD^ATZS. 



Steamships on the Atlantic 

Arizona, 

J Henry 

i Chauncey, 

I New York, 

■Rising Star, 

t Ocean Queen, 

'^ Northern 
I Light, 
&c., &c. 




Connecting on the Pacific with : 
Golden City, 
Constitution, 
Montana, 
Sacramento, 
Golden Age, 
St. Louis, 
&c., &c. 



One of the above large and splendid Steamships will leave Pier No. 42 IVorth. Biver, 
foot of Canal Street, at 12 o'clocis;, noon, on the 1st, llth, and 21st of 

every month (except when those dates fall on Sunday, and then on the preceding Saturday), for 
ASPINWALL, connecting, via Panama Eailway, with one of the Company's Steamships 
from Panama for SAN FKANCISCO, touching at ACAPXTLCO. Those of the 1st 
touch at MANZANIIiliO. 

families in Second CaMn and Steerage taken at reduced passage rates. 

An allowance of onk-quaetek on through rates to clergymen and their families, and school- 
teachers, going to practise their vocations. 

One hundred pounds' baggage allowed to each adult. Baggage-Masters accompany haggage 
through, and attend to ladies and children without male protectors. Baggage received on the 
dock the day hcfore sailing, from steamboats, railroads, and passengers who prefer to send down 
early. 

Departures of 1st and 21st connect with Steamers for SOUTH PACIFIC and 
CENTRAL AMERICAN PORTS. 

Departure of llth of each month connects with the New Steam Line from Panama to 
AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND. 

Througli. Tickets from New York to any of the ports above named furnished on 
application. 

The Company's New Line from San Erancisco to Japan and China, carrying the 
U. S. Mail, is now in operation. Departure from New York of June 1 1 connects with Steam- 
ship " COLOKADO," leaving San JFrancisco July 4tll, for ports in Japan and China. 

^^ For Passage Tickets, or further Information, apply at the Company's Ticket Office, 

On the Wharf, Pier 42, North River, foot of Canal St., New York. 

F. R. BABY, Agent. 
49 . 



KBM H0)Bl 



Corner East Water and llason Streets, 

MILWAUKEE, Wisconsin, ||| 

KIRBY & CHASE, Proprietors. 

L. PRANG & CO., 

Fill ilf f liUillli, 

159 WASHINGTON STREET, Boston. 



AMERICAN CHROMOS : 
ILLUMINATIONS FOR SUNDAY-SCHOOL ROOMS, 

Sunday-Scliool Cards, Eewards of Merit, Album Cards of Flowers 

1LEA.TW:S, MOSSES, SCEI^EISY, Etc., Etc. 
Catalogues will be sent free by mail. 

L. PRANG & CO. 
50 



THE UNITED STATES Ai^P BRAZIL 




MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPAISTY, 

XJJSTDER COIvrTE,A.CT 

"With tlie (jovernments of the United States and Brazil, 

Will despatch one of their new, first-class steamships, each over 2,000 tons burthen, 
on the 29th of every month, from the Port of 'Rew York for the following named 
Ports, and the following rates of passage, payable in coin, or its equivalent in United 
Slates currency : 

NEW YOR IC TO 

ST. THOMAS $80 

PARA 150 

PERNAMBTJCO 170 

Steerage at half these rates ; meals and bedding included. 
An experienced Surgeon attached to each vessel. 
All letters must pass through the Post-Office. Postage iO cents. 
For further information, Freight or Passage, apply to "^ 

GAEEISOH & ALLEM, Agents, 



BAHIA $180 

mo DE JANEIRO SOO 



nHITEB STATES MAIL LIME TO HAVANA. 

The elegant, new Steamships 
IViORRO CASTLE, EAGLE, and COLUMBIA, 

Built expressly for the trade, and having most superior accommodations, will con- 
tinue to run regularly to HAVANA, sailing from Pier 4 North River, every WED- 
NESDAY, at 3 o'clock y. ^^ Returning, leave Havana every SATURDAY. 
For further information. Freight or Passage, apply to 

GAMBISOW S ALLEWy Agents, 

No. 5 BOWLING- GREEN, NEW YORK. 

k 



illSllf H©1SI 




UNION SQUARE 



W. B. BOMJROWS. 



'55^ 



Wp^rts, 



il B 



The undersigned, for many years proprietor of the 
I Bellevue and Fillmore Houses, will open the 

(late U. S. Naval Academy) on the 27th May. Its location 
J is the finest in Newport, on the crest of " The Hill," fronting 
west on Bellevue Avenue, and north on Touro Park, and 
central to the attractions of this fashionable resort. 

IT IS HEATED BY STEAM, 

and will thus insure the comfort of its Guests in the cool 
mornings and evenings of the Spring and Autumn. 

WM, W. HAZARD, 

JProprietor, 



i^Hi@S H@Wi 



ijOnsra- Eit-^isrcii, nsr. j-_. 



C. A. STETSON" & CO. 



'mat H@' 



IS i<ro^w OFEisr 



for the accommodation of guests. Rooms can be securer 
on application at tlie Astoe House, IS". T., or by telegrap] 
or letter to Long Branch. 



C. A. STETSON, Jr., & CO. 



¥■ 






ST. LOUIS, 




'OURTH STREET, BETWEEN OLIVE AND LOCUST. 



I. B. GILDERSLEVE. 



THE 






s-A.3sr ra-A^isroisoo. 



Capital paid up - - - - $5,000,000 (gold). 



D. O. MXLIiS President. 

■W. C. RAIiSTON Cashier. 



AGENTS: 

IN NEW YORK Messrs. LEES & WALLEBI 

IN LONDON ORIENTAL BANK CORPORATIONS 



This Bank issues Letters of Credit, available for the purchase of Mew 
chandise in the East Indies, China, Japan, Australia, and other countries, authorizing 
Bills on the Oriental Bank Corporation, London. 



.©MAI 



©m sAici 



OilSr THE ^TL^ISTTIC CITIES. 



JLondon, 
JParis, 



AT.SO, ON" 

Dublin, 
Safiiburg, 



Amsterdam, 
Bremen, 



and other leading European Cities. Also, on the Branches of the Oriental Ban 
at Hong-KoDs; and other Asiatic Ports. 



ii 



/ 



